APPAREL TECHNOLOGY OF MANAGEMENT

1. ATM-END TERM JURY
SUBMITTED BY
IRSHAD HUSSAIN
(MFT/18/156)
ADVANCE TECHNOLOGY IN FABRIC
CUTTING, TECHNOLOGY LEVELS AND
CALCULATE ROI

2. FABRIC
CUTTING
Scissor Fully automatic fabric cutting
machine

3. FABRIC CUTTING
• To make a complete garments, cutting is necessary. It means to cut out the
garment pieces from lays of the fabric with the help of cutting templates. In
garments industries fabric is cut from lay and spreading with accuracy and
properly which is termed as fabric cutting.
Object:
• To separate fabric parts from the spread of the lay according to the
dimension of the marker
• Requirements Of Cutting:
• Precession of cut
• Clean edge
• Infused edge
• Consistency in cutting

4. TYPES OF CUTTING METHOD IN TEXTILE
INDUSTRY
• Fully Manual
• Hand operated scissor
• Manually Operated Power Knife or semi automatic
• Straight knife 1.Band knife 2. Round knife 3. Die cutting 4. Notcher 5. Drill
• Fully automatic cutting machine Computerized Methods Of Fabric Cutting
1. Computer controlled knife cutting
2. Cutting by Laser beam
3. Cutting by Water jet
4. Cutting by Plasma torch

5. 1. BASIC LEVEL TECHNOLOGY

6. FULLY MANUAL : HAND SCISSOR
1. First & oldest method of fabric
cutting
2. Used for cutting one or two plies
of fabric 3. Available to cut the fabric
from left to right or right to left
4. Can be cut by scissor
5. Needs more time & contain high
cost
6. Used in tailoring & household
purpose to cut fabric

7. INTERMEDIATE LEVEL TECHNOLOGY

8. SEMI AUTOMATIC : STRAIGHT KNIFE
• The elements of straight knife
consists of: 1. An electric motor 2.
Stand 3. A base plate usually on
rollers 4. Handle 5. Knife 6. Knife
guard 7. Wheel 8. Knife is driven by
electric power 9. Grinding wheel is
present to sharp the knife during
cutting 10. Blade edge: straight
edge, wave edge, saw edge,
serrated edge 11. Straight edge is
mostly used 12. Blade stroke 2.5 to
4.5 cm

9. STRAIGHT KNIFE
Advantage:
• Comparatively cheap & transferred easily from one place to another place
• Higher lay of fabric can be cut easily
• Round corner can be cut more precisely then even round knife
• Production speed is very good & fabric can be cut from any angle
Disadvantage:
• Some time deflection may occur due to the weight o the motor
• Knife deflection is high in risk, when lay height is too high
• Sometime accident may happen

10. DIFFERENT TYPES OF KNIFE
• Round Knife
• Wave knife
• Straight knife
• Notch knife

11. ROUND KNIFE
Features:
• element of round knife:
• Base plate & electric motor
• Handle for the cutter to direct the
blade
• Rotating circular blade
• Blade diameter varies from 6-20 cm
• Blade is circular
• Blade is driven by electric power

12. ROUND KNIFE
Advantage:
• Suitable for single ply cutting as well as multi- layers (say 20-30 layers)
• Suitable for small scale cutting
• Suitable gentle curve cutting
• Easy to operate
• Useful for cutting layer parts of a garments
Disadvantage:
• Not suitable for cutting very curve lines in higher no. Of lays
• Not suitable for higher production
• Possibility of accident is high
• Difficult to cut small component
• Needs skilled operator

13. DIE CUTTING
• Features:
• Mainly two types of die cuttings are
available namely: Presses & Clickers
• Main parts of all die cutting m/c
are Blade, Ram Head, Die, Motor &
Operating System of Ram
• Die is made by metallic strip
• Most useful to cut sharp & small
parts

14. DIE CUTTING
Advantage:
• extensively used to cut sharp corners of small parts of dress accurately
• most useful to cut at any shape or any angle
• comparatively less time required
• best method of cutting knitted fabric
Disadvantage:
• Fabric loss is high due to the need of block of fabric lay
• High labor cost
• To change the style quickly is impossible
• Difficult to cut large components of dress

15. BAND KNIFE
Features:
• Band knife comprises a series of
three or more pulleys, powered by
electric motor
• Cutting knife is endless in shape &
flexible
• Blade is usually narrower then on a
straight knife
• This method m/c is stationary but
fabric is moveable
• This is like saw mill cutter

16. BAND KNIFE
Advantage:
1. Used when a higher standard of cutting accuracy is required 2. Extensively
used to cut very sharp corners small parts such as collars & cuff 3. Used
more in men’s wear than ladies wear
4. Intensively risk of accident is low 5. Possible to cut 90˚ angle of the fabric
Disadvantage:
1. Work load is high as m/c is stationary & fabric is moveable
2. Not suitable for cutting large amount of garments parts
3. Not possible to cut fabric directly
4. Fabric wastage is high
5. Power loss is high

17. NOTCHER CUTTING M/C
Features:
1. Special type of cutting m/c & used in special case
2.Used to cut notch in the edge of some components
3. The invention of notcher m/c was done to make notch
4. The notch can be made in u-shape or v-shape
Notcher cutting M/C advantage:
1. Special type of cutting m/c & used in special case
2. Useful to cut small notch to the fabric 3. Most useful to make consistency in notching
Disadvantage:
1. Only used to make notch 2. Thermoplastic fiber can not cut by this m/c 3. Time loss
4.Use of the m/c is limited

18. DRILL CUTTING M/C
Features:
1. Needed to mark on the end of components of dresses especially for pocket & dart setting
2. This m/c contains a motor, base plate, drill, & spirit level 3. For tightly woven fabric,
making of hole by drill is permanent for long 4. In hypodermic drill some color is sprayed
along with the hole so that it can easy to find the marked place
Drill cutting M/C advantage:
1. Needed to mark on the end of components of dresses especially for
2. Setting pocket & dart 3. Make the hole permanently for long time
Disadvantage:
1. Only used for making hole in the fabric especially for setting pocket & dart
2. For loose woven fabric it can not make the hole permanently for long time

19. HIGHEST LEVEL TECHNOLOGY

20. FULLY AUTOMATIC: COMPUTER CONTROLLED
KNIFE CUTTING
Features:
1. This method provide the most
accurate possible cutting at high
speed
2. Marker is not necessary to put over
the fabric lays during cutting
3. Cutting knife is oval shaped & very
hard. Sharpness is also high & blade
is made of stainless steel 4. Cutting
knife itself moves according to the
direction of computer memory
5. This m/c is CAM system m/c &
works through CAD system

21. COMPUTER CONTROLLED KNIFE CUTTING
ADVANTAGE:
1. Very fast cutting operation
2. Very active cutting by computer
controlled system
3. Suitable for very large scale
production
4. Speed of can be controlled
5. Intensity of accident is low 6. No
need of marker 7. Fabric can be cut
6-8 times than manual method 8.
DISADVANTAGE:
1. Very expensive m/c
2. Higher maintenance cost
3. Skilled manpower is required
4. If correct disc is not loaded in the
computer, error will be indicated

22. LASER BEAM CUTTING MACHINE
Features:
1. This method, fabric is cut by a ray of light in a very fine spot using a laser 2. Radius of
spot of light is 0.25 mm & high powerful 3. When the ray falls on a material, it generates
heat on the material & cutting is done by vaporization 4. Fabric is cut at a speed of 13
meter per min 5. Cutting head is controlled by computer
Advantage:
1. Very fast cutting operation 2. Can be cut in a proper line as the cutting head is controlled
by computer 3. As the fabric is cut by ray off high so that no need of sharpening operation
Disadvantage:
1. Not suitable for cutting of multi-layer of fabric
2. For thermoplastic fabric the cutting edge should be fused
3. Very expensive cutting method

23. CUTTING BY WATER JET
Features:
1. This system, thin jet of water is passes through a nozzle in a very momentum 2.
Pressure of water is 60,000 pounds per square inch 3. Water is worked as like as hard &
sharp knife which can easily cut the fabric 4. A catcher in the bottom of fabric lays & it
used with the same speed & the same direction of water jet
Advantage:
1. Higher cutting speed
2. There is no need of knife to cut fabric so that no
3. Need of sharpening operations 4. Better to cut hard material
Disadvantage:
1. Not suitable for higher depth of lay of fabric
2. Cutting edge of fabric is wetted by water 3. Sometimes water spot should be seen in the
fabric 4. Need of filtering & deionization of water 5. Need of controlling the sound of jet

24. PLASMA TORCH CUTTING MACHINE
Features:
1. This system, fabric are cut by a thin through the nozzle which is made by argon gas 2. One or
more fabric plies can be cut 3. Most useful for cutting single ply of fabric 4. Fabrics are cut by
placing in a table, the surface (85%) of which must be place in a perforated blanked place 5. Still
now, this system is under research
Advantage:
1. Automatic torch height control system
2. Automatic oxy-fuel gas control system
3. Automatic torch explosion system 4. Pneumatic band clamping
5. Standard auto-nesting package 6. Easily networked
Disadvantage:
1. Synthetic fiber not cut
2. Higher number of fabric lay is not cut
3. Need higher skill operator 4. Costly

25. LATEST ADVANCE TECHNOLOGY IN FULLY
AUTOMATIC CUTTING M/C
• ECO-certified
• Average power consumption 5.9 kW
• Innovative Power Vacuum System
guarantees lowest electrical power
consumption
• Re-sealer: enhances cut quality and
eliminates vacuum loss

26. INTELLIGENT KNIFE SYSTEM
• Fastest RPM that allows cutting
hard materials like denim
• Automatic knife deflection
correction
• Blade lubrication or cooling system

27. CUTTING OPTIMIZATION
• Cut-path optimization for smart
cutting parameters
• Remote technical assistance and
web connectivity, ensuring constant
support
• Patented high speed (dry time)
sharpening systems that sharpen
while head is moving

28. EASTMAN-RAPTOR 75X MULTI-PLY SYSTEM
• Newly engineered features include:
• Heavy-duty frame, gantry and tool head design
• Modular tool head and frame components
• Improved access for maintenance and replacement of internal components
and consumable items
• Sensors for monitoring optimum cycle speeds
• Direct knife cooling improves cutting speeds and the ability to cut heavier-
ounce materials

29. TOOL HEAD
• The raptor™ tool head, patent pending
• Quick change knife and sharpening discs
• Reciprocating knife provides precise vertical stroke cutting
• Intellicut™ knife control software ensures quality cuts from top to bottom
ply
• Cutting up to 3 in. (7.5 cm) of compressed material
• Low pressure, light-touch sharpening unit. Sharpening can be adjusted to
user defined angle. Utilizes magnets to maintain even pressure of the
sharpening discs against the knife edge ensuring the sharpest blade
• High-speed-single or dual pneumatic drills for punching
• Air chillers direct air flow onto the blade for maximum cooling efficiency
• Easy access to knife system and assembly parts simplifies daily maintenance

30. SAFETY PURPOSE
• Six remote emergency stops: two on cutting gantry, four system-mounted
• Additional gantry-mounted stop disks pause system operation until
returned to neutral and reset. Operation can then be resumed from any
position.
• Tool head is equipped with flexi glass safety window to keep hands free of
potential knife injury during operation
• Single turn-off point with a universal power system for lockout/tagout
safeguards employees from unexpected start-up
• Stack light indicator marks operation status

31. Other Features
• Cutting area is made up of durable bristle blocks
• Reciprocating knife blade penetrates bristle blocks with precision and minimal
damage to cutting area
• Easy to replace, the bristle blocks snap-in and snap-out individually, featuring a
unique design for maximum life
• Blast gate reduces time in advancing material
• Optional overhead light maximizes visual inspection of parts
Options
• Knife Chiller
• Lateral drive
• Automatic bristle cleaner
• Motorized Resealer
• Heavy-Duty Knife

32. VALUE FOR MONEY
The higher the technology level, the better the benefit in terms of productivity
realised. The return on investment for different equipment differs, based on
scale of operation and types of merchandise produced, etc. Here I will give
examples of two generic pieces of equipment.
• Example ROI for automatic spreader

33. 1. Fabric saving
• We can save fabric on the spreading machine by making longer layers; If we
have to make 3 m long marker with 200 plies, 2 cm end loss on each side is
800 cm in total. Using an automatic spreader, we can make longer layer
(depending on the fabric), say 12 m and reduce the plies by 50. Now the end
losses will be 50×4 = 200cm, thus saving 600cm fabric or 1.0% of fabric.
Assuming that splicing also generates around 0.75% of savings, total
savings by using the spreader is 1.75%.
• Suppose average fabric price is rs 50 per meter and spreading 5,000 m per
day, it will give a saving of (1.75% x 50 x5000) = rs 4,375 per day = rs
13,12,500 per year (300 working days per year).

34. 2) MANPOWER SAVING
• With the automatic spreader we can manage with one operator and one
helper. This means a saving of salaries of at least 10 operators /helpers. If
they get an average of (SUPPOSE) rs 3,000 per month, it means a saving of
rs 30,000 per month or, rs 3,60,000 per year.
• Average saving per year = fabric saving + salary saving
= rs 13,12,500 + rs 3,60,000 = rs 16,72,500
• Cost of automatic spreader = rs 20,00,000
return on investment = 20,00,000 / 16,72,500 = 1.195 years

35. SOME POPULAR GARMENTS CUTTING M/C
MANUFACTURER

36. REFERENCE
• https://www.slideshare.net/sheshir/presentation-fabric-cutting
• apparelresources.com
• https://www.slideshare.net/sunidhikumari1/cnc-48226954
• Iigm
• Tukatech.com
• www.eastmancuts.com