Overall process of Denim

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Welcome to The Presentation on DENIM
Mr. Shamsuzzaman Sheikh
Assistant Professor,
Department of Textile Engineering,
Dhaka University of Engineering & Technology
&
Mr. Abu Yusuf Mohammad Anwarul Azim, CSCA
Lecturer,
Department of Textile Engineering,
Dhaka University of Engineering & Technology
Mohammad Azim Uddin
Student ID: 135012
4th year, 2nd semester
Submitted To,
Presented by,

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INTRODUCTION
 Denim was called as serge de Nimes. Nimes is a town of France, where
fabric called serge was produced.
 Denim is American name for serge de Nimes.
 In our country, denim is called a jeans.
 There is a small difference between denim and jeans.
 Denim is made of one colored thread and one white thread but jeans is
woven of two threads of same color.

3. 02Rope dyeing process
01 Features
03 Sheet dyeing process
04Denim diversification
05 Faults
Presentation outline
Start

4.  Denim fabrics are woven from coarse, indigo dyed cotton yarn.
 Usually the warp is colored and the weft is white.
 The warp yarn of classic denim is dyed with indigo dye.
 It is available in several weights, ranging from 203.46 GSM (6
oz./yd2) to 474.74 GSM (14 oz./yd2).
 It is often a left-hand twill with 2/1 or 3/1 interlacing pattern.
 Fabric construction:
(𝟕′𝒔 𝑿 𝟖,𝒔 𝒕𝒐 𝟏𝟔′𝒔 𝑿 𝟐𝟑′𝒔
(𝟔𝟎 𝑿 𝟑𝟔 𝒕𝒐 𝟕𝟐 𝑿 𝟒𝟒)
X fabric width
4

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Denim can be classified by the following way-
Basic/regular denim: 3/1(four-leaf twill)
Ring denim : 2/1(three-leaf twill)
Slub denim : warp slub and weft slub
Stretch denim : weft yarn (elastomer)
Poly denim : polyester used in weft
Generally denim yarn can be prepared by two ways-
 Rope dyeing process
 Slasher dyeing process

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Flowchart in rope process
Ball warping01
04
Softening
02
Pretreatment
03
Dyeing 05
Long Chain Beaming
06
Sizing
Weaving

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Ballwarping
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Ropedyeing
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LCB
Sizing
Weaving
Rope denim process
 The input materials of this machine is cone and
output material is ball in rope form.
 350 to 500 (456 or 528) yarn ends are pulled from
the creel
 The yarns then pass through a comb-like device
(reed), which keeps each warp yarn separate and
parallel to its neighboring ends
 A lease yarn is used at interval.
 The yarns then go through a funnel-shaped device
called a trumpet or condenser.
 Finally ball like beam is produced.
Ball warping

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Ballwarping
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Ropedyeing
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LCB
Sizing
weaving Rope denim process
Rope dyeing
Dyeing process that is maintained as follows:
Pure indigo : continuous indigo dyeing
Bottoming : sulphur (bottom) & indigo (topping)
Topping : indigo (bottoming) & sulphur (topping)
Black denim : continuous sulphur black dyeing
 Dyeing is maintained side by side for deep shade.
 Oxidation fixes the color after dyeing.

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Ballwarping
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Ropedyeing
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LCB
Sizing
Weaving
Rope denim process
Long Chain Beaming
 It is necessary to change the yarn alignment from a
rope form to a sheet form before entering the next
process.
 Once the ropes come down from the guiding
device, they go through tensioning rollers to help
further the separation of the ropes before going
through a comb at the warper.
 Warper separates individual yarn ends and keeps
them parallel to one another. From the comb, the
warp yarns are guided onto a flanged section
beam.
 A pre-beam is obtained from this section

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Ballwarping
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Ropedyeing
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LCB
Sizing
Weaving Rope denim process
Sizing
 A relatively soft handle can be achieved using a
combination of modified starch with a polyacrylate.
 Warps sized in this way have good running
properties, helping to ensure high efficiency and an
excellent final appearance.
 The main sizing recipes are wax, softener and
binder.
 Generally the yarns of prebeam are mixed in this
section. So, variation of yarn count can easily be
removed.
 Lease rod is used to remove line mark. Adjustable
v-reed controls the width and density of weavers
beam.

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Ballwarping
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Ropedyeing
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LCB
Sizing
Weaving
Rope denim process
Weaving
 For finished widths of 150cm to 156cm, reed
widths of 160cm to 167cm are required.
 For the production of heavy denims, leno
selvedges are advisable. Lighter denims,
weighing less than 13 oz./sq. yd., can be woven
with tucked selvedges.
 Rope dyed yarns 20-30 yarns are reserved to
minimize yarn shortage during weaving. Because
yarn can be torn during weaving

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Flowchart in sheet dyeing process
Direct warping01
04
Sizing
02
Pre-treatment
03
Slasher Dyeing
Weaving

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SHEET DYEING PROCESS
 Dyeing, drying, sizing and after repeated drying, assembly of
the warp is carried out in a single operation.
 Many problems are introduced in this stage.
 Cross shade variation (CSV) is the main problem in slasher
dyeing process.

14. Denim diversication
Diversification may be achieved by the following ways.
By using plain-based weave design
By using different fancy yarns - slub yarn, thick thin yarns etc.
By using lycra (elastomeric fiber) yarn
By changing the EPI, PPI and count of yarns.
By changing the weft yarn count in consecutive insertion.
By using different types of yarn like polyamide, polypropylene or with polyester
and especial bonding with a 100% nylon net for a more active look.
By changing the construction with two way stretch fabrics and special coatings
or rubberized effect.

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faults
Faults
Skewing
Compressive
Shrinkage

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References
1. Engr. Shah Alimuzzaman Belal, (2009), Understanding Textiles for a
Merchandiser, First Edition, BMN3 Foundation.
2. ARJUN, DAKURI, TECHNOLOGY OF INDUSTRIAL DENIM
WASHING: REVIEW, International Journal of Industrial Engineering
& Technology (IJIET) ISSN 2277-4769 Vol. 3, Issue 4, Oct 2013, 25-34.
3. Sakshi (2015), PHYSICAL AND COMFORT PROPERTIES OF DENIM
FABRICS PREPARED WITH DIFFERENT YARNS IN WEFT
DIRECTION,

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