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Earwigs are among the most readily recognized insect pests in home gardens (Figure 1). Although earwigs can devastate seedling vegetables or annual flowers and often seriously damage maturing soft fruit or corn silks, they also have a beneficial role in the landscape and have been shown to be important predators of aphids. 
Although several species occur, the most common in California gardens is the European earwig, Forficula auricularia, which was accidentally introduced into North America from Europe in the early 1900s. The striped earwig, Labidura riparia, occurs in Southern California and can annoy residents when it is attracted to lights. It has a very disagreeable odor when crushed. However, the striped earwig doesn’t damage plants. 
IDENTIFICATION 
The adult earwig is readily identified by a pair of prominent appendages that resemble forceps at the tail end of its body. Used for defense, the forceps are somewhat curved in the male (Figure 2) but straighter in the female. The adult body is about 3/4 inch long and reddish brown. Most species have wings under short, hard wing covers, but they seldom fly. Immature earwigs look like adults except they are smaller and lack wings. 
Contrary to popular myth and despite their ferocious appearance, earwigs generally don’t attack humans, although they are capable of biting if trapped in clothing or sat upon. 
LIFE CYCLE 
Earwigs feed most actively at night and seek out dark, cool, moist places to hide during the day. Common hiding places are under loose clods of soil, boards, or dense growth of vines or weeds or even within fruit damaged by other pests such as snails, birds, or cutworms. 
Female earwigs dig cells in the ground in the fall and winter where they lay masses of 30 or more eggs. Eggs hatch into small, light brown nymphs and remain in the cell protected and fed by their mother until their first molt. Second-instar nymphs may forage at night but still return to the nest during the day. Third- and fourth-instar nymphs are darker and forage on their own. Generally there is one generation a year, but females produce two broods. 
Part of the earwig population hibernates during the winter as pairs buried in cells in the soil. In the hotter parts of California, earwigs may be relatively inactive during the summer. In milder California climates, some remain active all year. 
DAMAGE 
European earwigs feed on a variety of dead and living organisms, including insects, mites, and growing shoots of plants. They are voracious feeders on soft-bodied insects such as aphids and insect eggs and can exert significant biological control under some circumstances. In yards that are planted to turf and contain mature ornamental plants, damage by earwigs is unlikely to be of concern. 
European earwigs can cause substantial damage to seedling plants and soft fruit as well as to sweet corn. Damaged seedlings may be missing all or parts of their leaves and stem. Leaves on older plants, including fruit trees, have numerous irregular holes or are chewed around the edges (Figure 3). This damage may resemble that caused by caterpillars. Look for webbing, frass (excrement), or pupae that would indicate the presence of caterpillars. 
Earwigs may attack soft fruit such as apricots, strawberries, raspberries, or blackberries but don’t harm hard fruit such as apples. On stone fruit, look for 
Integrated Pest Management for Home Gardeners and Landscape Professionals 
Earwigs 
Figure 1. Adult female European earwig. 
Statewide Integrated Pest Management Program October 2012 
PEST NOTES Publication 74102 
Figure 2. Adult male earwig showing strongly curved forceps. 
Figure 3. Crop damaged by European earwig.
October 2012 Earwigs 
◆ 2 of 3 ◆ 
shallow gouges or holes that extend 
deeply into the fruit (Figure 4). On 
strawberries, distinguish earwig dam-age 
from that of snails and slugs by 
checking for the slime trails snails and 
slugs leave behind. On corn, earwigs 
feed on silks and prevent pollination, 
causing poor kernel development. Ear-wigs 
may also seriously damage flowers 
including zinnias, marigolds, and dahl-ias. 
To confirm that earwigs are causing 
the damage, go out at night with a flash-light 
to observe the pests in action. 
Earwigs may seek refuge indoors when 
conditions outside are too dry, hot, or 
cold. Large accumulations of earwigs 
can be annoying but present no health 
hazards. Sweep or vacuum them up 
and seal entry points. Earwigs eventu-ally 
die indoors because there is little 
for them to eat. 
MANAGEMENT 
Management of earwigs requires an in-tegrated 
program that takes advantage 
of their habitat preferences. As mois-ture- 
loving insects, earwigs wouldn’t 
normally thrive in California’s arid cli-mate 
without the moisture and shade 
provided by irrigated gardens. Where 
earwigs are a problem, consider reduc-ing 
hiding places and surface moisture 
levels. Initiate a regular trapping pro-gram. 
If these measures are followed, 
insecticide treatments shouldn’t be nec-essary. 
Baits are available for earwigs 
but often aren’t very effective. Keep in 
mind that earwigs are omnivores and 
are beneficial in some situations, such 
as when they feed on aphids, and don’t 
need to be managed in many situations. 
Trapping 
A key element of an earwig manage-ment 
program is trapping. Place 
numerous traps throughout the yard, 
hiding the traps near shrubbery and 
ground cover plantings or against fenc-es. 
A low-sided can, such as a cat food 
or tuna fish can, with 1/2 inch of oil 
in the bottom makes an excellent trap 
(Figure 5). Fish oil such as tuna fish oil 
is very attractive to earwigs, or vegeta-ble 
oil with a drop of bacon grease can 
be used. These traps are most effective 
if sunk into the ground so the top of 
the can is at soil level. Dump captured 
earwigs and refill cans with oil. 
Other common types of traps are a 
rolled-up newspaper, corrugated card-board, 
bamboo tubes, or a short piece 
of hose. Place these traps on the soil 
near plants just before dark and shake 
accumulated earwigs out into a pail of 
soapy water in the morning. Earwigs 
can also be dropped into a sturdy plas-tic 
bag and crushed. Continue these 
procedures every day until you are no 
longer catching earwigs. 
Sanitation and Other Controls 
Complement the trapping program 
by removing refuge sites for earwigs, 
such as ivy, weeds, piles of rubbish, 
and leaves. Never allow heavy ground 
cover such as ivy to grow near veg-etable 
gardens. Watch out for mulches; 
they often harbor earwigs. Natural en-emies 
including toads, birds, and other 
predators may play an important role 
in some gardens. Chickens and ducks 
will consume many earwigs. 
For fruit trees keep weeds, brush, and 
suckers away from the base of the 
trunk throughout the year, as this 
overgrowth provides refuge for ear-wigs. 
Monitor populations with folded 
newspapers or burlap bags placed at 
the base of trees. On the lower trunks 
of older fruit trees, carefully scrape off 
all loose bark. Trunks can be treated 
with Tanglefoot, a sticky substance 
that prevents earwigs from climbing 
up the trunks to reach ripening stone 
fruit. Also, keeping fruit trees properly 
pruned, thinning heavy crops, and 
picking fruit as soon as it ripens will 
help keep earwigs from becoming 
pests. Remember that earwigs can be 
beneficial in trees when they are feed-ing 
on aphids, so keeping them out 
isn’t always recommended unless the 
tree produces soft fruit. 
Chemical Control 
Where insecticides are desired, those 
containing spinosad (e.g., SluggoPlus 
baits or spinosad sprays) are the most 
effective, environmentally sound prod-ucts. 
However, baits often aren’t very 
effective where there are other attrac-tive 
food sources. Sprinkle baits around 
susceptible plants before they become 
infested or around the foundation of 
the house where earwigs may be enter-ing. 
Dampening the bait after applica-tion 
may soften it and make it more 
attractive. Once earwigs are in suscepti-ble 
plants or in fruit trees with ripening 
fruit, baits are unlikely to control the 
problem. Other more toxic insecticides 
are available, including carbaryl, but 
aren’t usually needed if the cultural 
practices above are followed. 
For best effect and to protect bees, ap-ply 
at night and before the infestation 
is severe, following all label directions 
and making sure the product is labeled 
for use around any plants that may be 
treated. Combine the use of insecticides 
with the trapping and sanitation proce-dures 
described above. 
Inside the Home 
Indoors, earwigs can be swept or vacu-umed 
up; be sure to kill and dispose of 
them promptly so they won’t reinvade. 
If earwigs are a regular problem in a 
Figure 5. A low-sided can sunk into the 
ground and filled with vegetable oil and a 
drop of fish oil makes a good earwig trap. 
Figure 4. Earwig feeding damage on an 
apricot.
October 2012 Earwigs 
◆ 3 of 3 ◆ 
building, inspect the area to see how 
they are getting into the house and 
seal up cracks and entry points. Re-move 
materials outside the perimeter 
of the building that could provide har-borage, 
such as ivy growing up walls, 
ground cover, bark mulches, debris 
(especially leaves in gutters), wood 
piles, leaf litter, piles of newspapers, or 
other organic matter. 
Also, keep water and moisture away 
from the structure by repairing drain 
spouts, grading the area so water 
drains away from the structure, and 
ventilating crawl spaces to minimize 
moisture. Insecticide treatments 
indoors aren’t recommended, since 
they will do little to prevent invasions. 
If earwigs are attracted to outdoor 
AUTHOR: M. L. Flint, UC Statewide IPM 
Program, Davis/Entomology, UC Davis. 
EDITOR: M. L. Fayard 
ILLUSTRATIONS: Figs. 1–4, J. K. Clark; 
and Fig. 5, M. L. Flint. 
This and other Pest Notes are available at 
www.ipm.ucdavis.edu. 
For more information, contact the University of 
California Cooperative Extension office in your 
county. See your telephone directory for addresses 
and phone numbers, or visit http://ucanr.org/ce.cfm. 
WARNING ON THE USE OF CHEMICALS 
Pesticides are poisonous. Always read and carefully follow all precautions and safety recommendations 
given on the container label. Store all chemicals in the original, labeled containers in a locked cabinet or shed, 
away from food or feeds, and out of the reach of children, unauthorized persons, pets, and livestock. 
Pesticides applied in your home and landscape can move and contaminate creeks, rivers, and oceans. 
Confine chemicals to the property being treated. Avoid drift onto neighboring properties, especially gardens 
containing fruits or vegetables ready to be picked. 
Do not place containers containing pesticide in the trash or pour pesticides down the sink or toilet. Either use 
the pesticide according to the label, or take unwanted pesticides to a Household Hazardous Waste Collection 
site. Contact your county agricultural commissioner for additional information on safe container disposal and 
for the location of the Household Hazardous Waste Collection site nearest you. Dispose of empty containers 
by following label directions. Never reuse or burn the containers or dispose of them in such a manner that 
they may contaminate water supplies or natural waterways. 
ANR NONDISCRIMINATION AND AFFIRMATIVE ACTION POLICY STATEMENT 
The University of California prohibits discrimination or harassment of any person in any of its programs 
or activities. The complete nondiscrimination policy statement can be found at http://ucanr.org/sites/anrstaff/ 
files/107734.doc. Inquiries regarding the university’s equal employment opportunity policies may be directed 
to Linda Marie Manton, Affirmative Action Contact, University of California, Davis, Agriculture and Natural 
Resources, One Shields Avenue, Davis, CA 95616, (530) 752-0495. 
Produced by UC Statewide 
Integrated Pest Management Program 
University of California, Davis, CA 95616 
University of California scientists and other 
qualified professionals have anonymously peer 
reviewed this publication for technical accuracy. The 
ANR Associate Editor for Urban Pest Management 
managed this review process. 
To simplify information, trade names of products 
have been used. No endorsement of named products 
is intended, nor is criticism implied of similar products 
that are not mentioned. 
This material is partially based upon work 
supported by the Extension Service, U.S. Department 
of Agriculture, under special project Section 3(d), 
Integrated Pest Management. 
lighting, use yellow or sodium vapor 
lightbulbs, which are less attractive to 
these insects. 
REFERENCES 
Flint, M. L. 1998. Pests of the Garden and 
Small Farm, 2nd ed. Oakland: Univ. Ca-lif. 
Agric. Nat. Res. Publ. 3332. 
Moore, W. S., C. S. Koehler, and P. Svi-hra. 
Aug. 1994. HortScript No. 7. Ear-wigs 
and Their Control. Univ. Calif. Coop. 
Ext. Marin Co. v

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Earwigs Integrated Pest Management

  • 1. Earwigs are among the most readily recognized insect pests in home gardens (Figure 1). Although earwigs can devastate seedling vegetables or annual flowers and often seriously damage maturing soft fruit or corn silks, they also have a beneficial role in the landscape and have been shown to be important predators of aphids. Although several species occur, the most common in California gardens is the European earwig, Forficula auricularia, which was accidentally introduced into North America from Europe in the early 1900s. The striped earwig, Labidura riparia, occurs in Southern California and can annoy residents when it is attracted to lights. It has a very disagreeable odor when crushed. However, the striped earwig doesn’t damage plants. IDENTIFICATION The adult earwig is readily identified by a pair of prominent appendages that resemble forceps at the tail end of its body. Used for defense, the forceps are somewhat curved in the male (Figure 2) but straighter in the female. The adult body is about 3/4 inch long and reddish brown. Most species have wings under short, hard wing covers, but they seldom fly. Immature earwigs look like adults except they are smaller and lack wings. Contrary to popular myth and despite their ferocious appearance, earwigs generally don’t attack humans, although they are capable of biting if trapped in clothing or sat upon. LIFE CYCLE Earwigs feed most actively at night and seek out dark, cool, moist places to hide during the day. Common hiding places are under loose clods of soil, boards, or dense growth of vines or weeds or even within fruit damaged by other pests such as snails, birds, or cutworms. Female earwigs dig cells in the ground in the fall and winter where they lay masses of 30 or more eggs. Eggs hatch into small, light brown nymphs and remain in the cell protected and fed by their mother until their first molt. Second-instar nymphs may forage at night but still return to the nest during the day. Third- and fourth-instar nymphs are darker and forage on their own. Generally there is one generation a year, but females produce two broods. Part of the earwig population hibernates during the winter as pairs buried in cells in the soil. In the hotter parts of California, earwigs may be relatively inactive during the summer. In milder California climates, some remain active all year. DAMAGE European earwigs feed on a variety of dead and living organisms, including insects, mites, and growing shoots of plants. They are voracious feeders on soft-bodied insects such as aphids and insect eggs and can exert significant biological control under some circumstances. In yards that are planted to turf and contain mature ornamental plants, damage by earwigs is unlikely to be of concern. European earwigs can cause substantial damage to seedling plants and soft fruit as well as to sweet corn. Damaged seedlings may be missing all or parts of their leaves and stem. Leaves on older plants, including fruit trees, have numerous irregular holes or are chewed around the edges (Figure 3). This damage may resemble that caused by caterpillars. Look for webbing, frass (excrement), or pupae that would indicate the presence of caterpillars. Earwigs may attack soft fruit such as apricots, strawberries, raspberries, or blackberries but don’t harm hard fruit such as apples. On stone fruit, look for Integrated Pest Management for Home Gardeners and Landscape Professionals Earwigs Figure 1. Adult female European earwig. Statewide Integrated Pest Management Program October 2012 PEST NOTES Publication 74102 Figure 2. Adult male earwig showing strongly curved forceps. Figure 3. Crop damaged by European earwig.
  • 2. October 2012 Earwigs ◆ 2 of 3 ◆ shallow gouges or holes that extend deeply into the fruit (Figure 4). On strawberries, distinguish earwig dam-age from that of snails and slugs by checking for the slime trails snails and slugs leave behind. On corn, earwigs feed on silks and prevent pollination, causing poor kernel development. Ear-wigs may also seriously damage flowers including zinnias, marigolds, and dahl-ias. To confirm that earwigs are causing the damage, go out at night with a flash-light to observe the pests in action. Earwigs may seek refuge indoors when conditions outside are too dry, hot, or cold. Large accumulations of earwigs can be annoying but present no health hazards. Sweep or vacuum them up and seal entry points. Earwigs eventu-ally die indoors because there is little for them to eat. MANAGEMENT Management of earwigs requires an in-tegrated program that takes advantage of their habitat preferences. As mois-ture- loving insects, earwigs wouldn’t normally thrive in California’s arid cli-mate without the moisture and shade provided by irrigated gardens. Where earwigs are a problem, consider reduc-ing hiding places and surface moisture levels. Initiate a regular trapping pro-gram. If these measures are followed, insecticide treatments shouldn’t be nec-essary. Baits are available for earwigs but often aren’t very effective. Keep in mind that earwigs are omnivores and are beneficial in some situations, such as when they feed on aphids, and don’t need to be managed in many situations. Trapping A key element of an earwig manage-ment program is trapping. Place numerous traps throughout the yard, hiding the traps near shrubbery and ground cover plantings or against fenc-es. A low-sided can, such as a cat food or tuna fish can, with 1/2 inch of oil in the bottom makes an excellent trap (Figure 5). Fish oil such as tuna fish oil is very attractive to earwigs, or vegeta-ble oil with a drop of bacon grease can be used. These traps are most effective if sunk into the ground so the top of the can is at soil level. Dump captured earwigs and refill cans with oil. Other common types of traps are a rolled-up newspaper, corrugated card-board, bamboo tubes, or a short piece of hose. Place these traps on the soil near plants just before dark and shake accumulated earwigs out into a pail of soapy water in the morning. Earwigs can also be dropped into a sturdy plas-tic bag and crushed. Continue these procedures every day until you are no longer catching earwigs. Sanitation and Other Controls Complement the trapping program by removing refuge sites for earwigs, such as ivy, weeds, piles of rubbish, and leaves. Never allow heavy ground cover such as ivy to grow near veg-etable gardens. Watch out for mulches; they often harbor earwigs. Natural en-emies including toads, birds, and other predators may play an important role in some gardens. Chickens and ducks will consume many earwigs. For fruit trees keep weeds, brush, and suckers away from the base of the trunk throughout the year, as this overgrowth provides refuge for ear-wigs. Monitor populations with folded newspapers or burlap bags placed at the base of trees. On the lower trunks of older fruit trees, carefully scrape off all loose bark. Trunks can be treated with Tanglefoot, a sticky substance that prevents earwigs from climbing up the trunks to reach ripening stone fruit. Also, keeping fruit trees properly pruned, thinning heavy crops, and picking fruit as soon as it ripens will help keep earwigs from becoming pests. Remember that earwigs can be beneficial in trees when they are feed-ing on aphids, so keeping them out isn’t always recommended unless the tree produces soft fruit. Chemical Control Where insecticides are desired, those containing spinosad (e.g., SluggoPlus baits or spinosad sprays) are the most effective, environmentally sound prod-ucts. However, baits often aren’t very effective where there are other attrac-tive food sources. Sprinkle baits around susceptible plants before they become infested or around the foundation of the house where earwigs may be enter-ing. Dampening the bait after applica-tion may soften it and make it more attractive. Once earwigs are in suscepti-ble plants or in fruit trees with ripening fruit, baits are unlikely to control the problem. Other more toxic insecticides are available, including carbaryl, but aren’t usually needed if the cultural practices above are followed. For best effect and to protect bees, ap-ply at night and before the infestation is severe, following all label directions and making sure the product is labeled for use around any plants that may be treated. Combine the use of insecticides with the trapping and sanitation proce-dures described above. Inside the Home Indoors, earwigs can be swept or vacu-umed up; be sure to kill and dispose of them promptly so they won’t reinvade. If earwigs are a regular problem in a Figure 5. A low-sided can sunk into the ground and filled with vegetable oil and a drop of fish oil makes a good earwig trap. Figure 4. Earwig feeding damage on an apricot.
  • 3. October 2012 Earwigs ◆ 3 of 3 ◆ building, inspect the area to see how they are getting into the house and seal up cracks and entry points. Re-move materials outside the perimeter of the building that could provide har-borage, such as ivy growing up walls, ground cover, bark mulches, debris (especially leaves in gutters), wood piles, leaf litter, piles of newspapers, or other organic matter. Also, keep water and moisture away from the structure by repairing drain spouts, grading the area so water drains away from the structure, and ventilating crawl spaces to minimize moisture. Insecticide treatments indoors aren’t recommended, since they will do little to prevent invasions. If earwigs are attracted to outdoor AUTHOR: M. L. Flint, UC Statewide IPM Program, Davis/Entomology, UC Davis. EDITOR: M. L. Fayard ILLUSTRATIONS: Figs. 1–4, J. K. Clark; and Fig. 5, M. L. Flint. This and other Pest Notes are available at www.ipm.ucdavis.edu. For more information, contact the University of California Cooperative Extension office in your county. See your telephone directory for addresses and phone numbers, or visit http://ucanr.org/ce.cfm. WARNING ON THE USE OF CHEMICALS Pesticides are poisonous. Always read and carefully follow all precautions and safety recommendations given on the container label. Store all chemicals in the original, labeled containers in a locked cabinet or shed, away from food or feeds, and out of the reach of children, unauthorized persons, pets, and livestock. Pesticides applied in your home and landscape can move and contaminate creeks, rivers, and oceans. Confine chemicals to the property being treated. Avoid drift onto neighboring properties, especially gardens containing fruits or vegetables ready to be picked. Do not place containers containing pesticide in the trash or pour pesticides down the sink or toilet. Either use the pesticide according to the label, or take unwanted pesticides to a Household Hazardous Waste Collection site. Contact your county agricultural commissioner for additional information on safe container disposal and for the location of the Household Hazardous Waste Collection site nearest you. Dispose of empty containers by following label directions. Never reuse or burn the containers or dispose of them in such a manner that they may contaminate water supplies or natural waterways. ANR NONDISCRIMINATION AND AFFIRMATIVE ACTION POLICY STATEMENT The University of California prohibits discrimination or harassment of any person in any of its programs or activities. The complete nondiscrimination policy statement can be found at http://ucanr.org/sites/anrstaff/ files/107734.doc. Inquiries regarding the university’s equal employment opportunity policies may be directed to Linda Marie Manton, Affirmative Action Contact, University of California, Davis, Agriculture and Natural Resources, One Shields Avenue, Davis, CA 95616, (530) 752-0495. Produced by UC Statewide Integrated Pest Management Program University of California, Davis, CA 95616 University of California scientists and other qualified professionals have anonymously peer reviewed this publication for technical accuracy. The ANR Associate Editor for Urban Pest Management managed this review process. To simplify information, trade names of products have been used. No endorsement of named products is intended, nor is criticism implied of similar products that are not mentioned. This material is partially based upon work supported by the Extension Service, U.S. Department of Agriculture, under special project Section 3(d), Integrated Pest Management. lighting, use yellow or sodium vapor lightbulbs, which are less attractive to these insects. REFERENCES Flint, M. L. 1998. Pests of the Garden and Small Farm, 2nd ed. Oakland: Univ. Ca-lif. Agric. Nat. Res. Publ. 3332. Moore, W. S., C. S. Koehler, and P. Svi-hra. Aug. 1994. HortScript No. 7. Ear-wigs and Their Control. Univ. Calif. Coop. Ext. Marin Co. v