Presentation of weaving

Weaving machineries and
process flow
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Objective of the training
• To clarify different type of weaving machines for
the trainee.
• The trainee can also have a basic idea to evaluate
a given project of weaving mill whether the
necessary machines are fulfilled or not.
• To create a better awareness about the over all
process of weaving mill.
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• To provide some important ideas about the
classification of different types of machine.
• The trainee can also recognize the current level of
weaving technology.
• To enlighten the Production capacity of different
machines .
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Fabric
 Fabric can be classified :
 woven .. Warp and weft
 Knitted….. Single yarn
..loop
 Non woven felt or fusing
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Woven
• Plain
• Twill
• Sateen
• satin
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Definition
Weaving is the a textile art in which two distinct
sets of yarns or treads , called the warp and the
filling or weft are interlaced with each other to
form a fabric or cloth.
The warp threads run lengthways of the piece of
cloth, and the weft runs across from side to side.
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Warping
• Winding of warp yarn on warper beam at constant
speed and tension is called warping process.
• Depending up on the kind of yarn and the
manufacturing processes, mainly two types of
warping are used .
• These are beam warping and sectional warping.
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Beam warping process
– The machine used for this process is called beam
wrapper.
– If the fabric has M number of ends we need n number of
warper's beam ,which contain m number of ends .
– The ends from all warping ends are put together and
wound on the weavers beam during sizing or beaming .
– This process is the most common in cotton industry .
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Sectional warping machine
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Sectional warping process
• In this system, warp ends are consecutively wound on the
warping drum as separate sheets or sections of equal length
.
• All the ends are simultaneously wound from the warping
drum on to the weaver beam .
• The total width of the sections on the warping drum is equal
to the loom warp width .
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Cont----
• Therefore, the section density (number of ends per
unit of width) at winding on the warping drum is
equal to the density of the warp at its winding on the
weaver's beam.
• The main advantages of sectional warping are.
• The possibility of obtaining a ready weaver's beam .
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Cont-----
• The ability to obtain a warp with a great number
of ends on the weaver's beam with out the use
many warping beams .
• Efficient for complex color pattern warps, and for
process that don't require sizing process after
warping.
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Sizing process
• Sizing is the process of impregnating the warp with size
solution.
• Size solution can be prepared from natural source such as
maize ,wheat and can synthetically in the form of PVA.
• The warp yarn is subjected a great stress during weaving
• To with stand this stress the warp yarn should be strong
• That why sizing is one part of textile process
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Wovens
• Woven fabrics are interlacing
of yarns over and below one
another.
• Warp yarns/ends are the
yarns that lie parallel to the
fabric edges. Warp yarns are
laid down first in the loom.
• Weft yarns/filling/picks are
the yarns that are inserted in
the crosswise direction.
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Weaving machine classification
• Weaving machine mainly classified as shuttle and
shuttles loom.
• In shuttle loom the filling yarn in inserted through
the shed by a small carrier device called a shuttle.
• Shuttle less loom don't have shuttle.
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Shuttleless loom
• Some of the common shuttleless looms include:
• Water-jet looms .
• Air-jet looms.
• Rapier looms.
• And projectile looms.
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Cont--
• The basic top speed of a shuttle loom is about 200 ppm.
• Shuttle less Looms have increased the speed of weaving to
about 350ppm - 1000ppm.
• In all shuttle less looms, yarn is pre measured and cut, then
carried across from one side only.
• The following are the major types and speeds of shuttle less
looms:
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Cont--
– Projectile in which a small gripper takes the cut yarn across the
loom, either from one side or both sides. (350ppm)
– Rapier uses two carriers, one coming midway to pick up the yarn
carried there by the other arm. (550ppm).
– Air-jet is where a puff of compressed air carries yarn across
(850ppm).
– Water-jet, in which a jet of water under pressure carries the weft
across, mainly for weaving synthetics (1000ppm).
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Shuttle loom
• The shuttle is normally pointed at each end to allow passage
through the shed.
• In shuttle loom, the filling yarn is wound onto a pirn, which
in turn is mounted in the shuttle.
• The filling yarn emerges through a hole in the shuttle as it
moves across the loom.
• A single crossing of the shuttle from one side of the loom to
the other is known as a pick.
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loom selection
 The selection of the loom depends on
• The type of yarn and fabric to be woven
• The width of the fabric to be produced
• Mechanisms to produce specific features of the loom
• Type of shedding system on the loom
• Method of weft insertion
• The speed of weaving machine and its ability to produce the
required quality of fabric
• The manufacturer of the loom
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Water jet
• In water jet loom -weft insertion is done by jet of
water.
• Water-jet looms transport the fill yarn in a high-
speed jet of water and can achieve speeds of 400
to 600 picks per minute.
• Water jets can handle a wide variety of fiber and
yarn types and are widely used for apparel fabrics.
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Air jet loom
• Air jet loom -weft insertion is done by jet of air .
• Air-jet looms use a blast of air to move the fill yarn
and can operate at speeds of 800 to 1,000 picks
per minute.
• Mostly used to make light fabric
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Working principle of air jet loom
 Yarn is drawn from the yarn
package .
 Between the yarn package and
the measuring wheel is a tube
through which an air current flows
in opposite direction to the yarn.
 This maintains a straight even
feed of yarn.
 The yarn then forms a loop which
shortens as the pick penetrates
further into the shed.
 The main jet is the major
projecting force for the yarn,
although supplementary jets are
activated to prevent the pick from
buckling.

Rapier loom
• weft insertion is done by rigid or flexible rapier
• Rapier looms use two thin wire rods to carry the fill yarn
and can operate at a speed of 510 picks per minute.
• Rapiers are used mostly for spun yarns to make cotton and
woolen/worsted fabrics.
• In a double rapier loom, two rods move from each side and
meet in the middle.
• The fill yarn is carried from the rod on the fill side and
handed off to the rod on the finish side of the loom.
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Cont-------
 The fill yarn is carried
from the rod on the fill
side and handed off to
the rod on the finish side
of the loom.
Working principle of rapier loom

Projectile loom
• Projectile loom is a shuttle-less
loom method for filling yarn
insertion using a small metal
device.
• The device resembling a bullet
in appearance with a clamp for
gripping the yarn at one end,
which is then propelled into and
through the shed .
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Mechanisms of the loom
 There are five basic mechanisms of the loom
• Primary motion
1. Shedding motion: lifting and lowering of healds together
with the warp yarns called shed formation or shedding .
2.Picking motion :the insertion of weft yarn through the shed
is called the picking mechanism .
3. Beating up motion: after the weft is inserted through the
shed, it should be pushed up to the fabric fell which is
performed by the reed named as beating up motion.
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Secondary motion
a) Warp control (let off):-It delivers the warp to the
weaving area at the required rate & at suitable
constant tension from weavers beam
b) Cloth control (take up) : this motion withdraws
the fabric from the weaving area at constant rate
,which gives required pick spacing & then winds it
on to a roller
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Classification of weaving machine
Based on shading mechanisms

Tappet shedding motion
• In tappet shedding motion, the shedding cams or tappets
are mounted on the bottom shaft.
• The motion is suitable only for weaves repeating on two
picks, such as plain, weft rib, or hair cord weaves.
 Advantages of Tappet shedding motion
• it is simple and robust.
• since it is simple and robust. Not likely to cause faults in the
fabric.
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Cont--
• Cheap initial cost.
• Cheap maintenance cost.
Disadvantages of tappet shedding motion
• There is a restriction on patterning.
• For changing the pattern need to change tappet
i.e. not easy to change, the tappet.
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Dobby shedding motion
• Dobbins are much more versatile and usually
control at least sixteen, and sometimes as many as
36, healed shafts.
• Since the lifting of the shaft is controlled by some
form of pattern chain, there no limit of two the
number of picks per repeat.
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Cont----
Advantage of Dobby shedding motion
• Possible to produce a bigger design .
• Changing the design is easier in the dobby
shedding motion .
Disadvantages of dobby shedding motion .
• More complicated .
• Higher initial cost .
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Cont---
• Higher maintenance cost .
• It tends to limit the loom speed as compared to
tappet .
• Slightly more liable to produce fabric faults.
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Cont--
• Jacquard shedding motion used for deigns that require the
reproduction of freely drawn shapes.
• It is necessary for each end in the repeat to be separately
controlled.
• Jacquard machines are made in wide variety of sizes to
control from 100 to 2000 or more end per repeat.
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Weaving structure made by Jacquard loom
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Cont--
 Advantages of jacquard shedding motions
• Big design repeating on higher number of ends
• Changing the design is easier
 Disadvantages of jacquard shedding motion
• High maintenance cost
• High initial cost
• Further reduction in speed as compare to dobby
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The features of modern
weaving machine
 High productivity through high machine speed and
low down time.
 The ability to weave a wide variety of textile.
 Flexibility in switching from one article to another
 Low weaving costs.
 Microprocessor controlled technology.
 Choice of various reed width from 190_380 cm.
 Most operation are automated

Weaving loom manufacturer
• Now a dyes there are a number of companies which
produce different type of loom .
• Some of them are Donier, Metex, Nuovo Pignone, Picanol,
Saurer, Somet, Staubli, Sucker müller, Sultex, Sulzer,
Vamatex, Van de Wiele etc.
• A loom can described as Dornier Jacquard Rapier looms,
1994, nominal width 190 cm, 8 color selector.
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Types of Weaves
• 3 basic weaves
– Plain Weave
– Twill Weave
– Satin Weave
• Others
– Dobby weave
– Jacquard weave
– Pile weave
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Cont---
– a plain weave is always a 1/1 which needs only 2 harness
– a twill weave could be 3/1 or 2/2 which reads as a 3 up, 1
down and 2 up, 2 down respectively - both twills requires
four harnesses
– a satin weave of 4/1 reads as 4 up, 1 down and requires 5
harnesses.
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Plain Weave characteristics
• No right or wrong side.
• Highest strength with maximum number of
interlacing, but cannot pack as many yarns as
other weaves.
• Ravels and snags least readily.
• Least wrinkle resistant.
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Cont--
• Most porous; good for hot weather, especially
basket weave.
• Balanced weaves appear as squares, while
unbalanced weaves has ribs effects.
• Plain weaves can be sheer or very heavy
• Least expensive to manufacture since only 2
harnesses are used.
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Twill Weave Characteristics
• Has a definite right and wrong side, diagonal lines are more
pronounced on the right side.
• Next highest tensile strength after plain weave since there
are fewer interlacing
• Can pack more yarns within a given space.
• Tend to snag or unravel slightly more than plain weave.
• More wrinkle resistance.
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Cont--
• Resists soiling but harder to get dirt out.
• The closer packed yarns provides warmth for cool weather.
• Appear with diagonal lines varying in prominence, direction
(left or right) or steepness (23°, 45° or 63°).
• Usually of medium to heavy weights.
• More expensive to produce than plain weave since a
minimum of 3 harnesses are used
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Angle of Twill
• Regular twills are usually 45°, while steep twills are
63° or reclining twills (very rare) are 23°. The
steeper the twill, the stronger the fabric.
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Twill Direction
•Right Hand (RH) Twill has diagonal lines running
from right to left
• while Left hand (LH) Twill runs from left to right.
Herringbone twill is an example of a reversing twill
weave.
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Satin Weave
• Designs are usually achieved by changing the float
direction.
• Lowest strength among the 3 basic weaves with
minimum interlacing.
• high number of threads packed into a given space.
• Most easily raveled and snags from the long floats.
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Cont--
• Most wrinkle resistance and drapable.
• Does not soil readily
• Can pack yarns very closely to give wind or water resistance.
• Appear lustrous from the long floats on the face.
• Usually a light or medium weight fabric.
• Most expensive fabric to produce among the 3 weaves
where 5 or more harnesses are used.
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Using Point Diagrams To Understand
The Weave Pattern
 A black square
represents a warp yarn
on top of the weft yarn.
 A blank square
represents a warp yarn
below the weft yarn.
1 2 3 4 5
1
2
3
4
5

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Plain Weave 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
PLAIN WEAVE
black square = warp yarns on top

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2x2 Basket Weave 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
PLAIN 2X2 BASKET WEAVE

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Twill Weave1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
2/2 RIGHT HAND TWILL (EVEN)
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
3/1 LEFT HAND TWILL (UNEVEN)

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Even and Uneven Twills
An even twill has weft yarns passing over and
under the same number of warp yarns each
time. A 2/2 twill has the diagonal wale as
noticeable on the face as it is on the back.

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Warp Face Twills
vs
Weft Face Twills
 A 2/1 warp-face twill has more warp yarns on
the face of the fabric, and since warp yarns
are stronger than weft, a warp face twill will
give better wear than a 1/ 2 weft-face twill

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Satin Weave
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
4/1 SATIN WEAVE (WARP FLOATS)

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Satin Weave structure on fabric

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Satin Weave
Characteristics:
 The floats are on the face of the
fabric.
 Designs are usually achieved by
changing the float direction;
 Lowest strength among the 3
basic weaves with minimum
interlacings;
 high number of threads packed
into a given space,
 Most easily raveled and snags
from the long floats.
 Most wrinkle resistance and
drapable.
 Appear lustrous from the long
floats on the face.
 Usually a light or medium weight
fabric.
 Most expensive fabric to produce
among the 3 weaves where 5 or
more harnesses are used.

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Pile Weaves
 Pile weaves create a three-
dimensional effect by weave
an extra set of warp or weft
yarns into the basic structure
of a fabric. These may be left
uncut as loops or cut to give
a plush effect.

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a) Warp pile vs Weft Pile
 Woven pile is made of cotton with both warp pile and
weft pile. When a durable cotton pile fabric is desired,
the warp pile weave is used.
 Warp pile weave is identified when the weft yarn carries
the warp pile tufts.
 Weft pile weave is identified when the warp yarn carries
the weft pile tufts.

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Dobby Weaves
 Raising of harnesses for plain, twill and satin weaves
can be activated and controlled by means of CAMS
(computer aided manufacturing), but a different direct
control is needed for more complex interlacing. The
dobby attachment on a loom can control the action of a
multiple harnesses (maximum 32 but usually it is
fewer).
 Dobby produces relatively small geometric designs.

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Jacquard Weaves
 A jacquard attachment on a loom makes it
possible to produce any design since each
warp yarn can be controlled separately for
each pick (insertion of weft).
 A jacquard weave is any design that is not
printed, not striped or not plaid/check.

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A complex weave produced by
Jacquard loom

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Thread or Cloth Count
Fabric construction is recorded as the number of warp by the number of
weft within a square inch, and the thread count is the sum or the total
number of yarns within a square inch.
For example,
Fabric Name # warp yarns x # of weft yarns = thread count
sheeting 60 x 60 per square inch = 120
poplin 133 x 72 per square inch = 205
percale sheeting 92 x 88 per square inch = 180

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Cont--
 Sheet large rectangular piece of cloth used as a
bed covering
 Percale fabric refers to a closely woven plain weave
fabric often used for bed linens.
 The type of fabric used in the manufacture of most
sheets and other bed linens
 Poplin is a heavy, durable fabric that has a ribbed
appearance. It is made with wool, cotton, silk, rayon, or
any mixture of these

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Fabric Weight Classification
Weight Range Typical Uses
Sheer
0 to 50 g/m2
Lingerie, bridal, evening wear, women’s
hosiery, sheer curtains.
Light
50 to 150 g/m2
“Top weight” which includes shirts, blouses,
dresses and linings.
Medium
150-300 g/m2
“Bottom weight” which includes slacks,
skirts, most suits, sports denim and some terry
towels.
Medium to Heavy
300 to 600 g/m2
Workwear, best terry towels, some suits, many
over-coats, many drapes, slip covers

Example 1
 A Weaving factory having 30 thousands
manufacturing of grey woven fabric capacity
per day is making 150 gm2 fabric of 1 meter
width. The factory is making the fabric with a
4% of wastage. Try to calculate the required
yarn demand for the factory?
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Example 2
 A Spinning factory having 20 Ton
manufacturing of carded yarn per day with a
waste of 13%. Find the required Lint cotton
demand for the factory? Given the factory is
working in three shift.
 Another factory with similar capacity is
manufacturing combed yarn with a waste
percentage of 18%. Find the required Lint
cotton demand for the factory?
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KNITTING
AN INTRODUCTION
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FABRIC MANUFACTURING TECHNIQUES :-
WEAVING
KNITTING
NON WOVEN
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Cont---
• WEAVING:- WOVEN FABRICS ARE CONSTRUCTED BY
THE INTERLACING OF TWO OR MORE SETS OF YARN
• KNITTING:- KNITTED FABRICS MAY BE
CONSTRUCTED WITH A SINGLE YARN THAT IS FORMED IN
TO INTERMESHING OF LOOPS BY THE USE OF NEEDLES
• NON WOVEN:- NON-WOVEN FABRICS ARE
FORMED DIRECTLY FROM FIBRES. BY BONDING,
INTERLACING OR BOTH, ACOMPLISHED BY MECHANICAL,
CHEMICAL OR THERMAL TREATMENT.
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KNITTING
• KNITTING IS THE SECOND MOST FREQUENTLY USED
METHOD OF FABRIC CONSTRUCTION
• KNITTING IS THE PRODUCTION OF FABRIC BY FORMING
LOOPS WITH YARN, WHICH ARE INTERMESHED IN A
VARIETY OF WAYS TO FORM THE FABRIC.
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KNITTING
KNITTING CAN BE DONE EITHER BY HAND OR BY
MACHINE
• HAND KNITTING
• MACHINE KNITTING
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CLASSIFICATION OF KNITTING
• KNITTING CAN BE DIVIDED IN TO TWO DISTINCT
SECTORS:-
• WEFT KNITTING
• WARP KNITTING.
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WEFT KNITTING:-
THE LOOPS ARE FORMED
ACROSS THE WIDTH OF THE
FABRIC, AND EACH WEFT THREAD
IS FED, MORE OR LESS, AT RIGHT
ANGLES TO THE DIRECTION IN
WHICH THE FABRIC IS PRODUCED.
IT IS POSIBLE TO KNIT WITH
ONLY ONE CONE OF YARN,
THOUGH PRODUCTION DEMANDS
HAVE RESULTED IN WEFT KNITTING
MACHINES BEING MANUFACTURED
WITH UP TO 192 CONES(FEEDERS)
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CLASSIFICATIONS OF WEFT KNITTING
structures
Weft knitting
Flat knittingCircular knitting
Single jersy Double jersy
pique
plain
Auto stripe
Honey comb
Mock rib
fleece
Interlockrib
collorsweatercuff
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WARP KNITTING:-
IN WARP KNITTING,
LOOPS OF YARN ARE
INTERLACED VERTICALLY
DOWN THE LENGTH OF
THE FABRIC.
EACH NEEDLE IN THE
KNITTING WIDTH MUST BE
FED WITH ATLEAST ONE
YARN AT EVERY COURSE.
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CLASSIFICATIONS OF WARP KNITTING
structures
• TRICOT AND RASCHEL ARE
TWO MAJOR CLASSES OF
WARP KNIT STRUCTURES
WARP knitting
TRICOT
MILANESE
KETTEN RASCHEL
RASCHEL
CROCHET
WEFT INSERTED WARP
SIMPLEX
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In knitting, the yarns are initially formed
into loops, and then these loops are
interconnected in order to produce a textile
structure.
The term inter looping is used to describe
this technique of
forming fabrics.
PRINCIPLE OF KNITTING
Based on this principle, a textile fabric is produced by using only one set of yarns.
Interlooping of loops
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Courses are rows of loops across the
width of the fabric produced by adjacent
needles during the same knitting cycle,
and are measured in units of courses
per centimeter.
The number of courses determines the
length of the fabric.
COURSE
Wales are the vertical columns of needle loops.
The number of wales determines the width of the fabric and they are measured in units
of wales per centimeter.
WALES Plain single jersey knitted fabric
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Open loop:
The open loop is one in which the loop
forming yarns does not cross at the bottom
of the loop.
Closed loop:
In closed loop, the legs of the loop cross so that
the loop closing takes place.
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Face loop:
During loop formation, when the new loop emerges,
through the old loop from back to the face (or front)
side, it is called as face loop or weft knit loop.
Back loop:
If the new loop passes, from the face side to the
backside of old loop, it is called as back loop or weft
purl loop.
ETIDI

Stitch density is a term frequently used in knitting and represents the total number
of needle loops in a given area.
Stitch density is the product of the courses and wales per unit length and is
measured in units of loops per square centimeter.
STITCH DENSITY
The stitch length, measured in millimeters, is the length of yarn in the knitted loop.
It can be determined by removing one course length (or part of a course length) from a
fabric and dividing this length by the total number of needles knitting that length of yarn.
Generally, the larger the stitch length, the more open and lighter the fabric.
STITCH LENGTH
GAUGE
Gauge or cut is the number of tricks per circumferential inch of the machine.
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Weft knitting is a method of forming a fabric in which the loops are made in horizontal
way from a single yarn and intermeshing of loops take place in a circular or flat form in
across wise basis.
In this method, feeding is one yarn at a time, to a multiplicity of fashion.
WEFT KNITTING
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WARP KNITTING
Warp knitting is a method of fabric forming in which the loops are made in a
vertical way along the length of fabric from each warp yarns and intermeshing of
loops take place in a flat form of lengthwise basis.
Here, numerous ends of yarns are being fed simultaneously to individual needles
placed in a lateral fashion. Most of the knitted structures are flat or open width form.
ETIDI

Each stitch, knitted loop and yarn loop
consist of a top arc (head), two legs stitch is
bound at the and two bottom half-arcs (feet).
At upper and lower ends, i.e. at the head and at
the feet. The first loops (yarn loops) are bound
only at the head
with loosely hanging feet.
The knitted loops are bound only at the feet to
the heads of the previous stitches.
BASIC KNITTED STRUCTURE
At the place where the legs transform into feet there are two points of contact with the
previous stitch. These are defined as the binding points.
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Thus a stitch has four binding points, i.e. two binding
points at the head and two binding points at the feet of
each stitch.
Two binding points, therefore, build a binding unit.
Thus a stitch has a total of eight contact points, four
binding points and two binding units.
A knitted fabric is technically upright when its courses
run horizontally and its wales run vertically.
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For a stitch, depending on the position of the legs at the binding points, a technical
back and a technical front side is defined.
If the feet of the stitches lie above the binding points, and accordingly the legs below,
then this is the technical back of the stitch, and it is called the back stitch, purl stitch,
or reverse stitch.
If on the other hand, the bottom half-arcs are below and the legs above, then this is
the technical front of the stitch. This is called the face stitch or plain stitch.
TECHNICAL FACE AND TECHNICAL BACK
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Depending on the geometrical arrangement of the face and reverse stitches in a
knitted fabric, i.e. heads, legs and feet of stitches, the following four basic knitted
structures are defined :
 plain knitted fabrics;
 rib knitted fabrics;
 purl (links-links) knitted fabrics;
 interlock knitted fabrics.
FOUR BASIC KNITTED STRUCTURES
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PLAIN KNITTED FABRIC
Plain single-jersey is the simplest weft
knitted structure that is possible to produce on
one set of needles.
If a weft or warp knitted fabric has one side
consisting only of face stitches, and the opposite
side consisting of back stitches, then it is defined
as a plain knitted fabric.
It is also very frequently referred to as a single
jersey fabric (single fabric).
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RIB KNITTED FABRICS
The term rib is used to describe a knitted
fabric with vertical row (wales) of loops
meshed in the opposite direction to each
other.
If on both sides of a relaxed weft or warp
knitted fabric only face stitches, i.e. the legs,
are visible, then it is referred to as a rib knitted
fabric.
This is achieved by knitting with two needle systems which are placed opposite to each
other.
As such these fabrics are also known as double jersey or double face fabrics. When the
fabric is stretched widthwise, both sides of the fabric show alternately face and reverse
stitches in each course.
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PURL KNITTED FABRICS
If on the both sides of a relaxed weft
knitted fabric only reverse stitches are visible, then
this is defined as a purl knitted fabric.
When the fabric is stretched lengthwise, then the face
stitches are visible.
The fabric shrinks more in the direction of wales, and once it is released, it relaxes to
hide the face stitches between the courses.
The interlooping of the stitches of neighboring courses in opposite directions results in
the courses of a purl knitted structure closing up.
ETIDI

INTERLOCK KNITTED FABRICS
These could be considered as a combination of two rib knitted structures.
The reverse stitches of one rib knitted structure is covered by the face stitches of the
second rib knitted structure.
On both sides of the fabric, therefore, only face stitches are visible, and it is difficult to
detect the reverse stitches even when the
fabric is stretched widthwise. ETIDI

CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINESETIDI

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