1. Unit 11-Task 3
Analysis of Sports Performance
Explain the purpose and resources
required for analyzing different levels of
sports performance.

2. Unit 11 - Task 3 - P5
Explain the purpose and resources
required for analysing different levels
of sporting performance.
Pages 22-26 of the Electronic Text
Book will be very useful.

3. Task Context
• You are creating a resource for future coaches based
on your experiences in Unit 11 tasks 1 and 2.
• You need to choose two of the performer levels below
for you whole task to be based on.
– Foundation
– Participation
– Performance
– Elite
• You do not need to complete a comparison just explain
in detail each of the following factors.
• This resource should be able to support future coaches
start the work you have completed so far.

4. Talent ID
Level of Sports Performance Detailed explanation of purpose (‘why’ and ‘how’)
Participation : The purpose of talent identification is to establish who
is good enough at the sport and should continue to
explore where it takes you, or who should stay at a
recreational level in the climbing community. This
involves moving up to the next standard ,of the sport
participation pyramid to being performance. An
example of this would be that a climber goes from
dong this on a weekly basis for enjoyment to
representing their county in the Uk. To even competing
at a national level against other climbers.
Elite: The purpose at this level would to identify who is the
best at there level in climbing, at one specific category.
This would be for example a climber who will have
specific training and coaching for them to be good
enough to participate in the IFSC worldwide
championship.

5. Monitoring current fitness levels
Level of Sports Performance Detailed explanation of purpose (‘why’ and ‘how’)
Participation: Monitoring current fitness levels, this is used to identify
the starting point of a training programme that is specific
to climbing. At the participation level this is very
important as the performer now has a grasp on what the
sport of climbing is about. Fitness levels will identify how
the performer can move up. Through out training, fitness
levels should be taken to ensure the programme is
working with the and benefiting there performance. For
example a good test for this would be Cooper Vo2 max
test as well as looking at HR whilst the athlete is climbing.
Elite: As Elite this is at the top of the performance level, so
fitness levels are very important. AT this stage of
performance more equipment is available to the athlete,
to obtaining fitness levels. For climbing the best way to
obtain results is to complete them whilst doing a climb on
a wall, tests using video footage should be done. Such as
Cyclic climbing on overhangs or the speed test as well as
HR and a measure of VO2 max. This will ensure the
performer is at the top of there performance to be able to
compete in the IFSC.

6. Identifying strengths and areas for
improvement
Level of Sports Performance Detailed explanation of purpose (‘why’ and ‘how’)
Participation: AT this level of play a training partner or instructor my
give the athlete representative strengths and weaknesses
for there current performance. From this the athlete can
take this on board and work out how they may rectify
there weaknesses and work on them independently. The
best way to look at a climbers performance is through
video analysis, the training partner or coach can use this
as evidence, to build the correct training programme.
Elite: As the performer who has already reached an elite level of
performing, the climber will have a wide knowledge of
there personal performance. But at this level it is key to
iron out all of the weaknesses, to ensure the elite athlete
can perform at there maximum potential . This can also
help when looking at other performers and how well they
are doing, to be able to apply some of there skills to your
own performance. Increased training programme
accordingly.

7. Performance assessment
Level of Sports Performance Detailed explanation of purpose (‘why’ and ‘how’)
Participation: At participation level the purpose of this is to see how
a climber, is affected by environmental factors when in
a competition setting. Training associated to using the
environmental factors like fans cheering should be used
as a advantage, to avoid the performer feeling agitated
or nervous. From this the climber can then develop
tactics to ensure they win. An example of this in
climbing is the speed climb, to this always be one step
ahead of the opposition and take smaller steps that
ensure you do not slip of the wall.
Elite: At elite level performance all of the competitions if at
IFSC level, are highly analyzed and have the best
equipment being used to assist the performer.
This is then easier for the climber to play back
repeatedly to work on a particular move or skill to
make sure they get this right so that it can then be
applied correctly.

8. Recovery after injury
Level of Sports Performance Detailed explanation of purpose (‘why’ and ‘how’)
Participation: After getting an injury during training, as the performer is
only at participation level thy would have to take a back
seat to training for a whilst, to be able to recover. Over this
period of recovery the athlete may not be able to do any
training , depending on the severity of the injury . Due to
this the progress that the climber has made may be
reversed and once fully recovered, the athlete will need to
take a gently pace to ensure that the injury does not
reoccur .
An initial fitness test after the performer has recovered to
see were the coach should start , for the recovery training
programme.
Elite: When a performer at elite level, one of the worst things a
climber can have is an injury, as this can put them out of
practice for a long time . As well as set them back with
there progress , that they are have been able to reach.
But due to the performer being at a Elite level , there
should be a quicker recovery period due to higher funds,
so specialists will be there to help the athlete get back to
normal as soon as possible.

9. Continued from previous page :
Level of Sports Performance Detailed explanation of purpose (‘why’ and ‘how’)
Elite At elite level as they are practicing on a daily basis
there may be more psychological problems, which
affect how they performer goes back into the sport as
quickly as possible as climbing is a dangerous sport.

10. Assessment of health status
Level of Sports Performance Detailed explanation of purpose (‘why’ and ‘how’)
Participation: The performer will have to state whether or not they
have any health problems, which may course them
harm. Fro example this can be carried out using a PAR-Q.
This will show the training partner or coach, if the
training should be adapted accordingly to the illness or
injury, to ensure that they are still able to progress at
the same speed as other athletes who are performing
at participation level .
Elite: At elite level the athlete should complete a simple
fitness test such as the bleep test or Vo2 max test on
the treadmill or even a heart rate test when going up
the wall. To gain this basic data on the performers
current fitness level, this will show the coach how they
should adapt the training programme to benefit the
climbers health.

11. Squad selection
Level of Sports Performance Detailed explanation of purpose (‘why’ and ‘how’)
Participation: At participation level there are a large number of
climbers who want to make that jump from becoming a
recreational climber , to being an elite performer and
be selected by coaches or sponsors . A coach will look
at all the performers who want to take part ,but to be
the best you need help and there is allot to chose
from. Which makes it very hard to select the person
who will do the best. Especially as you are an
individual and do not have a team to support you.
Elite: At this stage the selection of who will compete at
national or worldwide level is even harder as you are
picking from some of the best climbers . But to be able
to do this, the coach will have to carefully analyze the
climber. The best way to do this is look at the technique
and skill level on an easy climb, at a grade 5 or lower
so the skill level is very clear . Each climber should be
recorded so that you can compare much easier.

12. Goal setting
Level of Sports Performance Detailed explanation of purpose (‘why’ and ‘how’)
Participation: Goal setting is very useful, especially at the early stages
of performance as it helps the performer to have
something to aspire to and work hard for. With
climbing, goals are useful for someone to build up to
the next grade of climbing, for example if there current
on site grade is a 6a then they should be working
towards a 6b.
For the goals to be effective they should be based on
the SMART principle, they should also be flexible
depending on your level of progress and fitness levels.
Elite: At elite level the performer would already be aware of
how to use these goal and how they are useful for
there personal performance . Both the climber and
coach should be involved in deciding the goals, and
should have the concept of SMART involved within
them. The athlete should then be motivated to stick to
the goals and have knowledge on how they can be
meet.

13. Human
Level of Sports Performance Detailed explanation of purpose (‘why’ and ‘how’)
Participation: At this level of performance the climbers who participate
will mainly be climbing recreationally, and not have a
strong motivation level. This sport is mainly for there
own enjoyment and each individual will look at there
personal improvements. To improve the coach or training
partner needs to be someone who has a similar attitude
to you and is valuable to your climbing performance, not
someone who wants to push you to hard . Looking at
other climbing performers will also improve you, as they
are working at the same level. Another aid is using video
analysis to seek advice and look back on your own
performance.
Elite: At Elite level the climber is being paid to perform and
participates on a full time basis, this means that they are
fully committed to there improvement and who is best to
help them to do this. The elite performer will be
determined to be the best weather this means doing
more exercise, for example to improve strength. This is all
to improve there performance as a climber, they will also
look at there dietary needs and lifestyle changes.

14. Facilities
Level of Sports Performance Detailed explanation of purpose (‘why’ and ‘how’)
Participation: At participation level ,the climber will not have access
to high tech facilities, that are specific to training your
climbing ability. The performer will make do with what
they have, as they do not have any financial backing.
Depending on the centre that you attend there may be
training facilities but there will not be a specified
trainer who will help you to utilize the equipment for
your specific needs.
Elite: As an elite performer the athlete will have a high
standard of facilities that they can use. The equipment
and facilities will be specified to climbing, this will help
the athlete to gain the maximum from there training.
This is to ensure that the athlete has the best chance of
being able to be the best they can be, to ensure that
there are no environmental factors that can
disadvantage the climber in any way, compared to
other climbers across the world.

15. Time
Level of Sports Performance Detailed explanation of purpose (‘why’ and ‘how’)
Participation: At this level of performance climbing is only done
recreationally and fits in around your everyday lifestyle
such as your job or school . This means that there is a
limited amount of time that the performer can train and
develop there ability to improve there performance, in
climbing. There is also limited amount of time the
climber can be with a coach or partner, the less time
training, the longer it takes for them to improve there
overall performance level.
Elite: The athlete will have allot of time to train due to this
being there carrier, they would be dedicated to a
training programme. The training is constant, this means
they will be able to improve in a shorter time frame,
then at participation level performer. The more time
that the climber dedicates to the sport the more likely
they are to succeed.

16. Equipment
Level of Sports Performance Detailed explanation of purpose (‘why’ and ‘how’)
Participation: At this level only minimal equipment is available to the
performer, such as ropes, basic harnesses , belay
devices, shoes and sandbags. But when you buy your
own equipment has an added expense but increases
your comfort, you also have a record of his history and
use. Without these basic things you can not climb on
an indoor wall for safety reasons.
The ropes should be checked before use to see any
fraying or kinks in the rope as well as all of your
equipment . This is to ensure that nothing goes wrong
when you are up the fall to increase your chance of
falling to the ground.
Elite: At an elite standard the equipment is at a much higher
standard , it is replaced much more regularly and is of
the highest quality. This is due to funding from
sponsors or family . Due to having the best equipment
that is tailored to your specific needs, means that your
climbing level can also increase at a faster rate . So
there is nothing stopping you from reaching your
potential

17. Financial
Level of Sports Performance Detailed explanation of purpose (‘why’ and ‘how’)
Participation: Financial help can be available to clubs or centers
through sponsorship or trust run company’s. Through
this the facilities have a wide range of people going in
and out of the centers, this creates allot of revenue for
the centre and helps to keeping the walls up to
standard and staff working for the centre.
Elite: At elite level the athlete has huge amounts of funding
through sponsors, fans or even family and friends. In
some cases the performers are given money for
supporting the company, when the performer competes
at a competition or even just wears the logo . At elite
level there is extra payments that are needed for health
care, physio , coaches , equipment but with this comes
extra pressure as a higher standard of play is expected.

18. Scientific support and equipment
Level of Sports Performance Detailed explanation of purpose (‘why’ and ‘how’)
Participation: At participation level the climber will have barely any
scientific support due to it being vastly expensive , but
on the other hand not necessarily important for a
participation level performer, as the athlete is only
participating for enjoyment and interest not to be the
best in the world.
Elite: Having access to high levels of technology will make
the results that the climber receives more precise and
accurate measurements . For example when measuring
speed climbing the two performers may reach at the
same time but the high tech equipment may give the
speed to a number of decimal places .
As well ,through scientific support the tests will help to
develop strategies to improve performance, for
example looking at VO2 max when going up a wall and
relating this to every day life. Your VO2 max can then
be matched with how long you can last in a session.

19. Safety
Level of Sports Performance Detailed explanation of purpose (‘why’ and ‘how’)
Participation: This is important to a performer at any level. Having
the correct equipment can be crucial in some sports
such as having belay devices and carribeaners in
climbing . Without this it can be life threatening .
Making sure that before you climb you check both the
belayer and the climber, before they set off on the wall.
This is especially important when lead climbing that the
belayer has an understanding of how to belay properly,
and will not let the climber plummet to the ground
Elite: At an elite level most safety aspects of the sport the
climber is already aware of as they have properly been
doing the sport for a very long time so are aware of
safety when climbing . But with an elite level
performer comes extra responsibility as there sponsors
expect them to give them a good name and have no
mistakes being made . Otherwise it looks bad for them
. Also there is certain amounts of safety between the
crowd and the performers of=n stage in cases such as
the IFSC’s you will need security to keep everything in
order.