The document describes various basic hand stitches used in sewing including temporary and permanent stitches. Temporary stitches are used to hold pieces together before permanent stitches, and include even and uneven basting. Permanent stitches form part of the garment, such as running stitch, backstitch, overcast stitch, and hemming stitches like slip and knotted hemming. The document also covers various seam types including plain, lapped, French, and flat fell seams. It concludes with descriptions of different seam finishes to prevent fraying such as pinking, edge-stitching, double-stitching, and bound seam edge finish.

1. BASIC HAND STICHES

2. A. TEMPORARY STITCHES – these stitches are used to hold the garment pieces together before
permanent stitches are made.
1. EVEN BASTING – this is used for tacking seams and other details, which must be held securely.
2. UNEVEN BASTING – this is used in fastening together two or more pieces of fabric where is to be
strain on them before the permanent basting is done.
B. PERMANENT STITCHES – are stitches that are left in the garment and form a part of the stitched
garment.
1. RUNNING STITCH – this is the simplest form of hand stitch which is used for permanent sewing
seams such as tucks, gathering, shirring, quilting, and mending.
2. BACKSTITCH – this is strong and is sometimes substituted for machine stitching.
3. OVERCAST STITCH – this is a very strong and tough stitch, sometimes called the “ugly” stitch.
BASIC HAND STITCHES

3. 4. HEMMING STITCH – is used to secure down a folded edge of material like hems.
4.1. SLIP HEMMING – this is used for hems, facings or folds where invisibility is more important
strength.
4.2 KNOTTED HEMMING – this is worked from right to left.
C. SEAM – this is a method of joining two or more pieces of materials together by row of stitching.
1. PLAIN SEAM – this is the most widely used seam which is flexible and inconspicuous.
2. LAPPED SEAM – this seam is commonly used for joining a gathered or an unaltered section to a
straight edge as in a yoke.
3. FRENCH SEAM – this is a ridge seam and is used on transparent and light weight fabrics,
on baby clothes and delicate blouses.
4. FLAT AND FELL SEAM – is a flat durable seam used on men’s sports shirts, work clothes and
clothes and pajamas.

4. SEAM FINISHES – are made to prevent fraying of the raw edges and thus make the seams more
1. PINKED FINISH – this is quick method done with pinking shears, which are not bulky, but not
appropriate finish for fabrics that ravel badly.
2. EDGE-STITCHED FINISH – this is mostly used on unlined coats and jackets where the seam
is wide.
3. DOUBLE-STITCHED FINISH – this is done for a plain unfinished seam or pinked seam and is not
suitable for bulky fabrics.
4. HAND-OVERCAST FINISH – this is common method used for both thick and thin materials that
easily.
5. HERRINGBONE FINISH – this finish neatens the raw edges of heavy materials like flannel.
6. BOUND SEAM EDGE FINISH – in this method, the seam is pressed open and the bias binding
attached to both the seam edges.
7. CLEAN-FINISH – also called Turned and Edge-stitched Finish. This is used for lightweight fabrics.

5. STITCHES – to work upon, join mend or fasten with or as if with stitches.
TACKING – to secure by some slight or temporary fastening.
FRYING – to wear into loose, ravelled threads or fibers, as cloth.
STAY STITCHING – a line of stitches made a line in the seam allowance to prevent the edges from stretching.
TECHNICAL TERMS