This document provides information on pattern grading. It discusses developing grading specifications, setting up a base pattern, and grading patterns. Some key points include: Grading is a method of enlarging or reducing a pattern proportionately to different sizes. It must be done accurately to avoid issues when producing multiple sizes. Common grading methods include cut-and-spread, pattern shifting, and computer grading. Developing grading specifications involves preparing work stations, selecting grading tools, and establishing a grading system. A grading system translates body changes between sizes to corresponding pattern piece changes. Setting up a base pattern involves selecting a basic style and determining grade distribution points. Cardinal points specify dimensional changes on pattern perimeters and curves. Patterns

1. Kolfe Industrial college
Garment Production Department
INTERMEDIATE APPARELPRODUCTION
LEVELTWO
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2. Unit of competence 4
Grade Pattern
LO1. Develop grading specifications
LO2. Set up base pattern
LO3. Grade pattern
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3. Introduction
Grading is a method of enlarging of reducing a pattern of a
particular size proportionately to some other size.
Pattern grading is a technique used to reproduce a pattern
in other sizes. It must be done accurately; small errors
unnoticed when one size is graded become difficulties when
many sizes are required.
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4. Cont.…
An accurate method is to draft the smallest size and the largest size, then
stop off the sizes between on lines drawn through the basic points.
Many manufacturers are now using computers to grade patterns, but
it is useful for trainees to understand the principle of how the data used is
calculated. Once the basic principle is learnt, one can understand any new
method quickly. Manual methods usually ‘shift’ the whole pattern
horizontally and then vertically.
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5. LO1. Develop grading specifications
1. Prepare work station
Workstation prepared according to OHS practices
OHS practices Include hazard identification and control, risk assessment and
implementation of risk reduction measures specific to the tasks described by this unit, and
may relate to:
♨ Manual handling techniques ♨ Standard operating procedures
♨ Personal protective equipment ♨ Safe materials handling
♨ taking of rest breaks ♨ Ergonomic arrangement of workplaces
♨ Housekeeping ♨ reporting accidents and incidents
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6. Cont.…
2. Grading Tool & Equipment
Patterns Scissors Ruler
Square rule Marker pens Hole punch
Pins Fashion triangle French curve
Pattern notcher Weights Tape measure
Meter rule Paper scissors
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7. Cont.
3. Grading System
Pattern grading
Pattern grading is the process of systematically increasing and decreasing the
dimensions of a master pattern in to a range of sizes for production.
Due to cost constraints, one sample size pattern is developed and fitted, and then
other sizes are graded from this master pattern.
The purpose is to achieve a good fit in each size without changing the style sense of
the garment design from the master pattern.
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8. Cont.
Grading systems
Systems are developed to translate the body changes from size to size to corresponding
pattern pieces.
A grading system is an aggregate of grade rules that specifies how the increase or decrease
is distributed throughout the pattern piece.
Grading System
1. FLAT (2D Pattern) 3. POSITION OF CONSTANT (STACK POINT)
2. SHAPE (3D Pattern)
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9. Cont.
The procedure to develop a grading system:
Collect anthropometrical data
Statistically analyze the collected data to determine sizing specification and
standards
Distribute the dimensions from the size specifications across the body, to
replicate the body shape change from size to size.
It is very much helpful in the garment industry starting from a pattern drafted from
a particular size you can make patterns of other sizes by grading.
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10. LO2. Set up base pattern
Basic Style
skirt blouses
shirt pants/trousers & lingerie
jackets, coats, suits
Grade Distribution
The total grade is distributed throughout the pattern.
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11. Cont.
Cardinal (fundamental) points/ Grade rules
The dimensional changes are made on the perimeter of the pattern pieces
at basic points that include the intersection of same and in some cases,
curved areas of the pattern.
A grade rule specifies the amount of increase or decrease at each
fundamental point for each size in the size range relate to the sample size.
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12. Cont.
Prepare for Grading
Grading Principle
The two principles frequently used for applying are
1. The draft or multi size grade
2. The track or single size grade
1. The draft grade
This term applies when the pattern is returned to its original block or when the increment is
applied to the actual pattern draft. This result in entire size range being super imposed on top of one
another and can also be described by the term “nested” or “Stacked” .
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13. Cont.
2. The Track Grade
The term is used when grade increments are applied to individual
pieces of pattern by moving the base pattern piece along predetermined
tracks, making around the pattern section by section and thus altering
its size.
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14. LO3. Grade pattern
With the help of grading we can easily alter the sizes suppose it bust size is 32 inch,
with the help of grading we can easily change 32 inch to 34 inch to 36 inch. Even we can
alter the sleeve sizes according to the bust size.
Stacking or outlay requirements
All sizes graded from the master pattern can be stacked into a graded nest so that the
incremental differences are easily observed.
A simplified grading system assumes the dimensional changes occur equally in the
back and front of the body.
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15. Cont.
Pattern marking symbols
grain lines
Darts/gathers, tucks, pleats etc.
slits
job seams
seam allowance
written information and instructions
Pattern attributes
darts
notches
shape
design proportion
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16. Cont.
Grading Method
There are three basic methods of grading:
1. cut and spread, (manual)
2. pattern shifting (manual)
3. Computer grading
No one method is technically greater and all are equally capable of producing a correct
grade.
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17. Cont.
1. Cut-and-spread method: The easiest method, which is the basis of the other two
methods, is to cut the pattern and spread the pieces by a specific amount to grade up,
or overlap them to grade down.
2, Pattern shifting: is the process of increasing the overall dimensions of a pattern by
moving it to a measured distance up and down and left and right, (using a specially
designed ruler) and redrawing the outline.
3. Computer Grading, is the fastest method, but have a tendency to be an investment
thorough and only larger manufacturers can afford.
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18. Practical Work
Grade Skirt
Grade Shirt
Grade Trouser
Procedure
1. Prepare Pattern Small Size/Medium
2. Calculate difference between size to Grade
3. Divided for Grading size (From initial size)
4. Grade as difference and complete Grading
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20. End Session
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