The document covers textile wet processing, focusing on dyeing, printing, and various traditional techniques like batik, kalamkari, tie and dye, and patola. It details the processes involved in applying colors to fabrics, the types of dyes used, and different printing methods, emphasizing the significance of color in textiles. It also contrasts dyeing and printing, highlighting their methods, applications, and requirements.

1. SRI KRISHNA ARTS AND SCIENCE COLLEGE
DEPARTMENT OF COSTUME DESIGN AND
FASHION
TEXTILE WET PROCESSING
Faculty: V.A.Rinsey Antony

2. TEXTILE WET PROCESSING
 Color is one of the most significant
factors in the appeal and
marketability of textile products.
 Color can be added to textile
objects by either dyes or pigments.
 Most colored textiles is achieved by
dye or pigment mixtures rather than
a single dye or pigment.

3. Unit 1 - Introduction 3
Textile wet processing
Textile wet processing is the
process that use in any finishing
treatment. Where, this process is
applied on textile in form of
liquid with involves some for
chemical action on the textile.
Examples: bleaching, printing,
dyeing and printing.

4. Dyeing
 Dyeing is a method which imparts beauty to the
fabric by applying various colors and their
shades.
 Dyeing operations are used at various stages of
production to add color and intricacy to textiles
and increase product value.
 It chemically changes a substance so that the
reflecting light appears coloured .
 The property of color fastness depends upon
two factors- selection of proper dye and
selection of the method for dyeing the fiber,
yarn or fabric.

5.  Dyes are used for coloring the fabrics.
 Dyes are molecules which absorb and reflect light at specific
wavelengths to give human eyes the sense of color.
 There are two major types of dyes - natural and synthetic
dyes.
 The natural dyes are extracted from natural substances such
as plants, animals, or minerals.
 Synthetic dyes are made in a laboratory. Chemicals are
synthesized for making synthetic dyes. Some of the synthetic
dyes contain metals too.
 Dyeing processes may take place at any of several stages of
the manufacturing process (fibers, yarn, piece-dyeing). Stock
dyeing is used to dye fibers.
 Top dyeing is used to dye combed wool sliver.

7. Batik
 resist dyeing process- designs - made with
wax on a fabric which is subsequently
immersed in a dye to absorb the colour on
the un-waxed portions - batik dyeing.
 done notably in India, Japan and Indonesia.
 patterns - geometric, moral, bird or animal
motifs.
 melted wax mixed with resin - traced on the
areas not to dyed with a tjanting- small
instrument - short, straight reed handle -
attached a small, funnel shaped copper cub
with one or more spouts.

8.  After application of wax, the fabric is dipped
into dye - particular colour desired.
 After dye - fixed - material dried- cloth is boiled
and rinsed - remove the wax.
 Any traces of wax remaining - scraped off.
 primary colours used -red, yellow, blue /blacks
and white.
 light and dark shades - brown, green, violet,
orange and pink - also used.
 method light colours - applied first followed by
the wax; the deeper shades are then built in.

10. Kalamkari
 The finest of Indian art textiles all over the world - exquisiteness
almost to a point of magic - category of cotton fabrics.
 term kalamkari originates - Persian Words Kalam or pen brush
and Kari or workmanship literally implying pen-work.
 Kalamkari - wax resists process in which dyeing printing and
painting with a pen brush .
 process of kalamkari - elaborate and intricate.
 kalam - nothing but a bunch of soft wires tied to a wooden piece
to act as a handle.
 Painting - application of dye material to the surface of the fabric.
 depicted sporting scenes, moral sprays, tree panels, birds,
animals and floriated rides.
 Colours used were lustrous red, black, indigo, green, yellow, dusty
pink and purple, brown and off white.

12. Tie and Dye
 fabric - tie and dyed keeping in mind the
design, created Bandhani and bandha are
the Sanskrit words meaning ‘to tie”.
 Rajasthan and Gujarat - famed -
production of the Bandhani.
 Knots that are tied in the cloth before it is
immersed in the dye bath resist the dye.
 The material used is cotton, silk and
georgette.

14. Patola
 the loveliest contributions of the Indian craftsmen to the
domain of world art fabric is the Patola.
 It originated in Gujarat around 4th century B.C. in Patola,
the material - silk - colorful and intricately ornamented.
 also called as lkat.
 process of resist dyeing - sequence of tying and dyeing
sections of bundled yarn - predetermined colour schemes
before weaving. Both warp and weft threads- tied and
dyed with precision
 dye penetrates - exposed sections - tied sections remain
undyed.
 patterns formed - on the yarn are then woven into fabric.
 characterized by their bold, grid based patterns with
intricate geometrical, moral and figurative motifs.
 Ikat - spreads at Pochampalli of Andhra Pradesh and Orissa.

15. Printing
 Textile printing is the process of applying colour to fabric in
definite patterns or designs.
 In properly printed fabrics the colour is bonded with the
fiber, so as to resist washing and friction.
 Textile printing is related to dyeing but, whereas in dyeing
proper the whole fabric is uniformly covered with one
colour, in printing one or more colours are applied to it in
certain parts only, and in sharply defined patterns.
 In printing, wooden blocks, stencils, engraved plates, rollers,
or silkscreens can be used to place colours on the fabric.
 Colourants used in printing contain dyes thickened to
prevent the colour from spreading by capillary attraction
beyond the limits of the pattern or design.

16. Styles of Printing
 Direct printing, - colourants containing dyes, thickeners, and
the mordants or substances necessary for fixing the colour
on the cloth are printed in the desired pattern.
 Mordant printing - printing of a mordant in the desired
pattern prior to dyeing cloth; the color adheres only where
the mordant was printed.
 Resist dyeing - wax or other substance is printed onto fabric
which is subsequently dyed. The waxed areas do not accept
the dye, leaving uncoloured patterns against a coloured
ground.
 Discharge printing, - bleaching agent is printed onto
previously dyed fabrics to remove some or all of the colour.

17. Types of Printing
Printing Methods

18. Block Printing
 oldest method - printing designs on fabric is
block printing by hand.
 found chiefly in decorative pieces for the home
of inexpensive linens for upholstery purposes.
 design - first carved - wooden or metal block.
 dyestuff - applied - paste form to the design on
the surface of the block.
 block - pressed firmly by hand on selected
portions of the surface of the fabric, imprinting
the carved designs as many times as desired on
a specific length of cloth.
 variation of colour - same design as many
additional blocks - carved as there will be

19. nd Block Printing
Hand block printing is one
such technique, which
involves carving a
desired pattern or
design on a wooden
block, covering this
block with ink or dye
and then stamping it on
the fabric. While blocks
can be made up of stone;
but for better results they
are more commonly made
from wood.

20. Roller printing, also called direct
printing, method of applying a
coloured pattern to cloth,
invented by Thomas Bell of
Scotland in 1783. A separate dye
paste for each colour is applied to
the fabric from a metal roller that
is intaglio engraved according to
the design.
Roller printing

21. Duplex printing simulates
a woven pattern by
printing the fabric on
both sides. Most duplex
prints are produced on
direct roller print
equipment, some are
produced on rotary screen
printers. Most often they
are made to imitate more
costly woven yarn dyed
design effects such as
stripes, checks, and plaids.
Duplex printing

22. The basic process of
screen printing involves
creating a stencil on a
mesh screen and then
pushing the ink to create
and imprint the design on
the below surface. The
most common surface
used in screen printing is
paper and fabric, but
metal, wood, and plastic
can also be used.
Screen printing

23. Stencil Printing
 originated in Japan.
 Its high cost limit in use.
 In stencil printing, the design must
first be cut in cardboard wood or
metal.
 stencil - fine, delicate design/ large
spaces -great amount - colour -
applied.
 multiple colours - individual stencil
-prepared.

25. Difference between dyeing and
printing
DYEING
 Dyeing is the process when the fabric
absorbs the dye
 Uniform application on both sides
of the fabric surface with single color
only.
 Dyes are applied in dilute form
 In fabric preparation, Half bleaching
is enough.
 Color penetrates through the fabric.
 More time is required in batch
application.
 Fabric need not be in dry condition
 Requires single machine and the
process is simple
 Dyeing consumes more water
PRINTING
 Printing is basically a stamp on the
fabric.
 Single or multicolor application on
one side of the fabric at selected
portions only.
 Dyes are applied in paste form
 Full-bleaching with optical whitener
is necessary
 Color is applied only on the surface.
 Not applied in batch process. Applied
only by continuous process alone.
Therefore requires less time
 Fabric should be in dry state
 Requires complex machinery and the
process is also complex.
 Printing consumes less water

26.  Thank you………………….