1. Soft closed-cell foam popper bodies are tough, durable, and their color never fades. They are difficult to shape without a rotary tool like a Dremel. 2. The document describes how to shape foam popper bodies using a Dremel as a lathe. Foam cylinders are mounted on a mandrel and shaped using sandpaper. 3. Guidelines are provided for selecting the appropriate hook style based on the shaped profile and ensuring the hook is unobstructed. Short shank hooks are best for curved profiles to reduce obstruction of the hook gap.

1. Soft-Foam Popper Bodies 1
SOFT-FOAM
POPPER BODIES
Closed-cell foams manufactured specifically for popper bod-
ies are tough and durable, and their colors never fade or wear off.
They are virtually indestructible, even when fished extensively in
bulrushes, cattails, and other vegetation. Slam one against a boat
dock or rocky bank and the foam body will not be damaged. This
toughness and resiliency make it very difficult to shape foam bod-
ies without the use of a high-speed rotary tool like the Dremel Mo-
to-Tool®
The most practical method I have found is to impale foam
cylinders on a mandrel secured in a high-speed rotary tool. The
rotary tool is used as a simple lathe to turn the cylinders which are
shaped with sandpaper.
Hook Styles
Popper bodies turned on a lathe often have a rounded profile
like a rifle slug instead of a straight-sided profile like a cone. A
straight-sided profile is well suited to a long-shank hook style,
where the hook shank is about 3/16 inch longer than the popper
body. A curved profile is more suited to a short-shank hook style,
where the hook shank is shorter than the popper body. The object-

2. 2 Chapter 4
tive is for the hook gap to be unobstructed by the bottom of the
popper. To that end, the shank of the hook should lie close to and
parallel to the bottom surface of the popper body. This is easy to
accomplish if the bottom surface of the popper is straight. However,
if it is curved, the protruding belly of the popper may obstruct the
hook gap. The greater the obstruction, the less the hooking efficien-
cy. The short-shank style with the hook bend protruding out the
belly of the popper, instead of the rear end, reduces the problem
and optimizes hooking efficiency.
Shaping Foam Bodies
I recommend you use only commercial foam cylinders for the
lathing process. Do not use stock that you have shaped to approx-
imate a cylinder, because the mass must be perfectly balanced on
the mandrel. When turning at 28,000 rpm, even the slightest imbal-
ance will result in a significant centrifugal force that may damage
the mandrel or foam. You must always wear eye protection during
the lathing process, and I recommend a full face shield.
There is no way to predict the exact size or shape of a lathe-
turned body. Any construction guidelines marked on the foam
would immediately be sanded away. Therefore, it is difficult to se-
lect a hook before the body is shaped. So just as with lathe-shaped
balsa bodies, you must create the body and then choose the hook
style and size that produces the most balanced combination.
Select a foam cylinder in the color and diameter of your choice.
One-half-inch or 5/8-inch diameter cylinders are a good choice
for medium-size poppers. If you intend the face of the popper to
be square to the body, trim the cylinder to the desired finished
length of the popper body. However, if you want the face to be
slanted, add an additional 1/8 inch to the length. A beveled face
gives the popper a unique dipping action that cleanses it of weeds
and debris. Remember, for the sake of form and balance, the body
length should be at least 25% greater than its diameter. If you have
to shorten the cylinder from the original factory length, the end that
you cut will be the tail end of the popper. Any cut or saw marks

3. Soft-Foam Popper Bodies 3
Make a pilot hole for the lathe mandrel by pushing a bodkin
through the center of the foam cylinder. Check the alignment of
the bodkin frequently from different sides to ensure the pilot hole
is perfectly aligned with the center line of the foam cylinder.
will be sanded away. Use a sharp safety razor or a craft saw and
miter box to cut the cylinder. Under no circumstances should the
cylinder be longer than the mandrel on which it will be mounted.
You must make a pilot hole down the center of the foam cylin-
der before you force it onto the mandrel. Hold the cylinder in one
hand and a bodkin in the other. Place the point of the bodkin in
the exact center of the factory cut end of the cylinder and align the
needle with the axis of the cylinder. Push the bodkin point into the
cylinder about 1/8 inch. Now rotate both the cylinder and the bod-
kin about 90 degrees and check the alignment. If it is correct, push
the bodkin forward another 1/8 inch. If they are misaligned, retract
the bodkin slightly, correct the alignment, and insert it an 1/8 inch
deeper. Continue this process until the point of the bodkin exits
the end of the foam cylinder. If it is not centered, retract it slightly,

4. 4 Chapter 4
Force the mandrel, Dremel®
bit No.105, into the pilot hole. The
mandrel must extend completely through the foam cylinder.
realign it with the cylinder axis and push it through the foam again.
This end of the cylinder will be the tapered tail end of the pop-
per, so any slight misalignment of the pilot hole will be corrected
during the sanding process. I must emphasize the need for the pilot
hole to be located close to the centerline of the cylinder so the mass
of the cylinder will be balanced on the mandrel.
The Dremel®
bit No.105, a 1/32-inch spherical engraving cutter,
is ideal for use as a mandrel. It is strong and has a short, tapered
point that is easily pushed into the pilot hole in the foam. Do not
use needles, nails, or any other type of wire shaft that was not
specifically manufactured for use in a high-speed tool. These soft
metals can bend at high speeds and may be ejected from the tool.
Remove the bodkin from the foam cylinder and force the point
of the mandrel into the pilot hole on the factory-formed face. Push
the cylinder down onto the mandrel until the tip of the mandrel is

5. Soft-Foam Popper Bodies 5
Use 100-grit sandpaper to shape the foam and 400-grit to polish
the surface. Move the sandpaper smoothly over the entire surface
of the foam. Unsanded portions will have a different texture.
barely visible at the end of the cylinder. Friction will be adequate
to hold the foam cylinder on the mandrel while it is shaped.
It is imperative that the tip of the mandrel protrudes slightly
from the foam cylinder. Do not try to shape a cylinder that is
longer than the mandrel. The unsupported portion that is not
impaled on the mandrel will bend slightly at high speeds causing
an imbalance, and the foam cylinder will work its way off the bit.
The more it slips off, the more the mass becomes unstable.
Use 100-grit sandpaper to rough shape the body. You may
mount the sandpaper in a sanding block or simply hold a strip be-
tween your fingers. I find it easier to hold the rotary tool steady and
manipulate the sandpaper. The end of the foam cylinder at the tip
of the mandrel should always be the tapered end of the body. The
sanding pressure will then force the foam cylinder onto the man-

6. 6 Chapter 4
drel instead of pushing it off the mandrel. Move the sandpaper gen
tly back and forth over the entire foam cylinder until the desired
shape starts to take form. Sand the cylinder fully from one end to
the other. Examine it occasionally to ensure that the entire surface
has been sanded. Many times you will find that the sandpaper did
not touch all of the foam because of irregularities in the alignment
of the pilot hole. It is easy to see unsanded portions because of their
difference in texture. When the body is removed from the mandrel,
unsanded portions will also have a slightly different shape and will
detract from the appearance of the popper. Do not taper the tail
end of the body to a sharp point. Leave it somewhat blunt. Other-
wise, it will be so flexible it will be difficult to insert a tail post.
Once you have shaped the body with 100-grit sandpaper, ex-
amine it carefully for mistakes or blemishes. A tear or crease in
the sandpaper can cut grooves in the body. A misaligned pilot hole
may result in an unsanded area on the surface. When you are satis-
fied with the shape, use a strip of 400-grit sandpaper to smooth the
surface and eliminate any minor imperfections. Be sure to polish
the entire surface or there will be differences in surface texture.
Shaping Popper Faces
If the popper is to be square ended, then you are ready to cut a
cup in the face if you desire. If you want the popper face to have
a slight bevel, you must first slope the face with a craft saw and
miter box. I do not recommend using a razor blade for this proce-
dure. Simply position the popper body in the miter box on its side
at a slight angle to the saw blade. Make sure the axis of the body is
horizontal. You may find it easier, if the body is tapered, to position
the popper perpendicular to the saw blade with the tail end pressed
against the floor of the miter box. This will orient the popper so the
axis of the body slopes upward. When you make a vertical cut with
the body in this inclined position, it will have a sloping face. With
either method, you must hold the foam tightly so it does not wiggle
or change position during the sawing operation. Now you are ready

7. Soft-Foam Popper Bodies 7
This picture shows a popper body positioned in a miter box so
the face will be cut with slight bevel.
to grind the cup in the face of the popper if you choose.
Use a 3/8-inch spherical grinding stone, Dremel®
No. 922, to
form the cup. Rotary cutters, like those recommended for balsa, re-
move too much material, too fast when used in a high-speed rotary
tool. One slip can ruin the body. A stone removes material quickly,
but is easy to control. You should leave a rim around the edge of
the cup of at least 1/16 inch. However, at the bottom of the popper
the rim should be 3/16-inch wide to accommodate the hook shank.
Mark the center of the cup before you start the cut. Carefully and
slowly press the stone into the popper face, especially as you begin
the cut. Applying too much pressure may cause the foam to melt
around the edges. Keep in mind that cutting a cup in the popper
face is optional and is by no means necessary for a popper to be
effective. Even when the water is choppy, a smooth-faced popper
will make enough commotion to attract the attention of any nearby

8. 8 Chapter 4
A 3/8-inch spherical grinding stone, Dremel®
No. 922, is used to grind
a cup in the face of a foam popper body.
bass. Loud poppers may actually scare fish, especially in clear or
shallow water. Deeply cupped faces sometimes create a very loud
blurp when the popper is picked up for a back cast or when you
attempt to set the hook.
The popper face I prefer is a simple, concave arc starting at the
top of the popper and leveling off 3/16 inch from the bottom. This
provides a lip thick enough to contain the hook shank. Cut the arc
with a 1/2 inch drum sander, Dremel®
No. 407, and a rotary tool.
I stack two sanding bands on the drum. Push a round toothpick
in the mandrel hole at the back of the foam popper to serve as a
handle. Set the popper on the edge of a small board to raise it up
off the work table. This will prevent your fingers or the body of the
rotary tool from contacting the work table before the cut is com-
pleted. It is absolutely necessary that you orient the grinder so the
rotating drum sander pushes down on the foam popper. Otherwise,

9. Soft-Foam Popper Bodies 9
This photograph shows the positioning of the foam popper and
sanding drum to make a curved-face popper. Both the foam pop-
per and the rotary tool must be held securely
the drum sander will jerk the popper off the table and possibly ruin
it. Center the drum sander over the front edge of the popper. Hold
the popper firmly and push the drum sander down through the pop-
per. The cut must be slow and deliberate. The drum sander must be
held in a horizontal position, aligned perpendicular to the axis of
the body, and centered over the front edge of the popper. The face
cut must not be canted; it must be square to the popper. The key is
to position the popper and the rotary tool correctly and hold them
securely. This is a tedious operation at best. If the bottom lip is too
thin, trim it back to a point where it is 3/16 inch thick.
Attaching the Hook
Once the popper body has been shaped and smoothed, you must
make a pilot hole for the hook shank. The pilot hole should always

10. 10 Chapter 4
Shown on the top are a long-shank hook and a short-shank
hook wrapped with thread. On the bottom, the hooks have been
inserted and glued into foam popper bodies. Normally long-shank
hooks are not attached to the body until after tail materials and
the hackle skirt have been tied to the shank.
be started on the popper face so the hook eye will be accurately
located. Position the point of a bodkin about 3/32 inch from the
bottom surface of the body. The pilot hole must be aligned with the
axis of the body or the hook will not set straight. I find it helpful to
insert a straight wire shaft into the mandrel hole down the center
of the body. The ends of this wire projecting from the head and tail
of the body act as a guide for aligning the bodkin as you punch the
pilot hole for the hook.

11. Soft-Foam Popper Bodies 11
If you are making a long-shank style popper, the pilot hole must
extend from the front face of the popper to the rear end and be em-
bedded at least 3/32 inch inside the body. If the body has a rounded
taper, the belly of the popper may substantially reduce the hook
gap. Long-shank popper bodies should have a long, straight taper
to provide uniform embedment of the shank and avoid interference
with the hook gap.
If you are making a short-shank style popper, you must first
select a hook and then determine where the hook bend should exit
the bottom surface of the body. Choose a hook that has a gap equal
or slightly larger than the diameter of the body. Lay the selected
hook on a flat surface and hold the popper body on top of the hook.
Position the body so that when viewed from above, the hook ap-
pears to be properly located within the body. The hook eye should
appear to protrude from the face about 3/32 inch above the bottom
surface, and the full bend of the hook should appear to protrude
from the belly of the popper. Orient the hook and body to pro-
vide the maximum unobstructed hook gap. Mark the point on the
bottom surface of the popper where the hook bend appears to exit
the body. Insert the bodkin into the popper face 3/32 inch above
the bottom surface. Carefully align the bodkin so it will exit the
body at the point you just marked in the previous step, and push it
through the body. If it does not come out at the point you marked,
pull it halfway back into the body, correct the alignment, and push
it through again.
A few minutes before you plan to insert a hook into the popper
body, push a wire shaft into the pilot hole to enlarge it so the hook
can be inserted easily. The wire shaft should have a diameter about
1/16 inch. Heavy coat hanger wire works well. Insert the shaft
into the rear of the popper body, not the front, and push it about
three-quarters of the way through the body. Leave the wire shaft in
the body until you are ready to attach the hook.
A bare hook shank does not have enough surface area to provide
an adequate bond to the foam. A simple and effective solution is to
simply wrap a portion of the hook shank with tying thread satu-

12. 12 Chapter 4
rated with glue. The thread wraps increase the effective diameter
of the shank and proportionately increase the surface area avail-
able for bonding to the foam. If you are tying a short-shank style
popper, the hook can be prepared and glued into the body as soon
as the body has been shaped. However, for long-shank styles, the
hook should be wrapped with thread and completely dressed with
tail material before it is glued into the body.
Secure the hook in your tying vise and score the shank with the
corner of a file or hacksaw blade. Start the wraps at the center of
the hook shank and wrap forward to a point about 1/16 inch behind
the hook eye, then wrap back towards the hook bend. Using the
popper body as a guide, stop the wraps 1/8 inch short of the point
where the hook will exit the body. For short-shank patterns, this
will prevent any thread wraps from being visible at the rear of the
popper body, and for long-shank patterns, it will provide room for
the finishing thread wraps when attaching the tail material. Coat
these wraps with glue and wrap several passes forward and back
along the shank. Apply additional glue as needed to keep the thread
saturated. Continue wrapping until you have built up a uniform
body of thread along the shank about 3/32 inch in diameter. The
thread wraps should be abruptly tapered at the front to facilitate
insertion of the hook into the foam body. Tie off the thread behind
the eye of the hook. The diameter of the wraps should be relatively
uniform along the shank.
The procedure for long-shank patterns is to attach the tail ma-
terial behind the thread wraps, and then glue the hook shank into
the body as described below. For short-shank patterns, the hook is
attached to the body first, and the tail dressing is tied to a post and
added later after the body has been completed.
Use a bodkin to spread glue generously throughout the pilot
hole in the foam body. This will lubricate the pilot hole and prevent
the thin layer of foam covering the hook from tearing. Do not use
any type of “super glue.” Even the slow-setting gels react with the
foam and set almost instantly. Use regular head cement or rubber
glue of some type. They will give you plenty of working time.

13. Soft-Foam Popper Bodies 13
Liberally coat the thread wraps with glue and push the shaft into
the foam. Remove any excess glue that squeezes out the rear of the
pilot hole. After it is fully inserted, orient the hook bend perpendic-
ular to the body. If the hook is an offset-point variety, use the hook
eye to help orient it correctly. Squeeze the foam to set its position.
If you are constructing a long-shank pattern, then you have a
nearly complete popper, since the hook was fully dressed with tail
material before it was glued into the body. Only the optional paint,
eyes, legs, and weed guard need to be added. On the other hand, if
you are building a short-shank style popper, then you have only a
popper body with a hook point projecting from its belly. The tail
material and dressing must still be added. I find it far more con-
venient to completely finish the popper body by applying paint
and attaching legs, eyes, and a weed guard before adding the tail
material. Attaching the tail post is the very last step. This is a major
advantage of the short-shank style.