Seam and hem finishes

Kajal GoyalNATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHIONTECHNOLOGY
Value Addition In Pret & Couture
FD SemVI
Assignment 1

Chapters
Topics included in the
presentation: Different types of
fabrics
Seam finishes and
Hem finishes
Appropriate seam
and hem finishes for
the mentioned
fabrics
1 2 3

Name of fabrics
ll Chanderi ll Net ll Chiffon ll Velvet ll
ll Silk ll Crepe ll

Chanderi
Fabric
Chanderi fabric is produced by
weaving silk and zari over simple
cotton yarn that adds on to a
shimmering texture to the loom.
1

History of Chanderi Fabric
Village of Chanderi
– The origins of the chanderi fabric can be traced
back to Madhya Pradesh. Weaving of the fabric
originated in a small town by the same name
(Chanderi) located very close to the Vindhyachal
mountain ranges.
– Craftsman and artisans wove chanderi fabric for
the royals during the 12th and the 13th centuries.
– The material was very expensive.
– The beauty of its fabric lied in the softness of the
fabric along with the transparency factor and the
golden embellishments.
– This fabric was a favourite among the ruling class
of the Bundelkhand and its neighbouring regions.

Pure Cotton
Chanderi
Silk Chanderi
Cotton-Silk
Chanderi
TypesofChanderiFabrics

Sheer
Texture
Light weight
Glossy
transparency
Delicate
High quality
and extra
fine yarns
Includes
unique
motifs
Mostly
pastel colors
Qualities of Chanderi Fabric

The characteristic translucency in the Chanderi fabric is due to a
special feature of the yarn called ‘Single Falture’. When the raw yarn
glue is not removed from the yarn, the non-degumming gives a
certain amount of translucency and shine to the final fabric. Only
Chanderi fabric has this exclusive quality and this makes it even
more desirable among local and international buyers.
Single Falture

Velvet Fabric
Velvet is a sleek, soft fabric that is
commonly used in intimate
garments, upholstery and other
textile applications.
2

History Of Velvet
– The first recorded mention of velvet fabric is from
the 14th century, and scholars of the past mostly
believed that this textile was originally produced
in East Asia before making its way down the Silk
Road into Europe. Traditional forms of velvet were
made with pure silk, which made them incredibly
popular. Asian silk was already very soft, but the
unique production processes used to make velvet
result in a material that’s even more sumptuous
and luxurious than other silk products.
– Until velvet gained popularity in Europe during the
Renaissance, this fabric was commonly used in the
Middle East. The records of many civilizations
located within the borders of in modern Iraq and
Iran, for instance, indicate that velvet was a
favorite fabric among the royalty the region.
Postcard with a
nineteenth century
painting of a woman
wearing a velvet jacket,
with a stamp depicting
the same painting

HOW IS VELVET
FABRIC MADE ?
Velvet is a type of cloth whereby short loops
are worked into a predetermined set of warp
or weft threads (for instance, every sixth
thread), and these loops are subsequently
(but not always) cut to create a raised, or
piled surface. There are many types of
velvets. They can be divided into weft-pile
(corduroy, velveteen) and warp-pile forms,
which again come in many different types.
There are also knitted versions that have
been available for over 150 years. The term
velvet is particularly used for warp-pile
forms, while knitted forms are often called
velours, but again, the terms are sometimes
used for the same types of cloth.

TYPES OF VELVET FABRICS
These are various ways in which velvet can produce
different effects, such as changing the type of fibre or
thread used, varying the colour of the pile, using cut
and uncut pile, changing the height of the pile and by
including a range of different background weaves
(plain, satin), as well as using pile as part of another
type of cloth.

Chiffon Velvet
• A very lightweight velvet
on a sheer silk or rayon
chiffon base.
Crushed velvet
• A lustrous velvet with a
patterned appearance
that is produced by
either pressing the fabric
down in different
directions, or sometimes
by mechanically twisting
the fabric while it is wet.
Embossed velvet
• A metal plate or roller is
used to heat-stamp the
fabric, producing a
pattern. Also known as
stamped velvet.
Hammered Velvet
• A type of velvet that is
extremely lustrous,
appears dappled, and
somewhat crushed.

Lyons Velvet
• A densely woven, stiff,
heavy-weight pile velvet
used for hats, coat collars
and garments.
Panne velvet
• This term originally
designated a type of
crushed velvet that was
subjected to a specific
single-direction thrusting
moment. These days,
Panne is more widely used
to refer to velvet with a
bunched appearance.
Utrecht velvet
• Velvet made with a mohair
pile and a linen ground.
This type of crimped velvet
has largely gone out of
style, but it is sometimes
still used in dresses and
eveningwear.
Voided Velvet
• A form of velvet that is
deliberately woven with
areas of ground that have
no pile. Instead these areas
are often produced with a
tabby weave or satin
weave in order to contrast
with the piled areas.

Devore Velvet
• A velvet treated with a
caustic solution to
dissolve areas of the pile,
creating a velvet pattern
upon a sheer or
lightweight base fabric.
Nacre velvet
• Velvet with an
appearance similar to
shot silk, whereby the
pile is woven in one or
more colours and the
base fabric in another,
creating a changeable,
iridescent effect.
Velour velvet
• A form of velvet which
has a knitted ground.
Double sided Velvet
• A form of velvet with a
pile on both sides of the
cloth.

& there are many other types as well…

High
breathability
Low stretch
ability
Not much prone
to
pilling/bubbling
Medium heat
retention
Medium level
moisture
wicking abilities
Hand wash or
cold water wash
Yarns are
bunched closely
together
Characterstcs of Velvet Fabric

VELVET AND IT’S
USES
These are various ways in which velvet can produce different effects, such as
changing the type of fibre or thread used, varying the colour of the pile, using
cut and uncut pile, changing the height of the pile and by including a range of
different background weaves (plain, satin), as well as using pile as part of
another type of cloth

Crepe Fabric
Crepe is a weaving or fabric
treatment method that results in a
unique rippling, three-dimensional
texture. Garments and other textiles
made with crepe fabric are generally
delicate and used for ceremonial
occasions.
3

History Of Crepe Fabric
– Crepe fabric has no clear origin point in the history
of human civilization. Since the concept behind
crepe is so simple, many cultures have adopted
forms of this fabric at one stage of development
or another. For instance, Crepe is still used by
Orthodox Greek women for mourning, and various
cultures of the Indian subcontinent incorporate
crepe into their traditional garments.
– In the West, crepe gained popularity outside of
mourning attire during the 19th century. Very
rapidly, a company called Courtaulds almost
completely dominated the crepe manufacturing
market, and over the years, this iconic firm
experimented with a variety of different crepe
weaves and materials.
Georgette
evening dress,
1930’s

HOW IS
CREPE
FABRIC
MADE ?
Crêpe can be made from almost any type
of fiber whether natural (raw silk, cotton,
wool) or synthetic (polyester, rayon); all
crepe fabric has the same purposefully
wrinkled appearance, and there are many
different manufacturing methods that
achieve this look. Crepe can be a woven
fabric or knit fabric. The materials used to
make crepe and the method used to
achieve the texture define the different
types of crepe.

Crepe yarn is made with a process called hard twisting, which
involves twisting the textile fibers used in yarn manufacture
much tighter than usual. Additionally, alternating S and Z twists
are used to give the yarn its distinctive bouncy texture. Also
known as right-hand and left-hand twists, these alternating
spinning techniques result in crepe yarn no matter which fabric
material is used.
Hard Twisting

TYPES OF CREPE FABRICS
There are countless different types of crêpe, which
vary based on the construction methods and the
fibers used.

Aerophane
• Popular during the mid-
19th century, this type of
crepe has a distinctive
gauze-like texture. While
aerophane isn’t in
production any more,
many types of modern
crepe mimic attributes of
this classic textile.
Albert Crepe
• A super quality black
mourning crepe used since
1862.
• Plain-weave crepe.
• An English-made cotton
and silk blend crepe.
Canton Crepe.
• A soft silk crêpe with a
pebbly surface originally
associated with Canton in
China, with bias ribs. Made
in Britain, but exported to
China, hence its name.
Chirimen
• Japanese raw silk crêpe
widely used for kimonos.

Crepe Anglaise
• A French term for English
mourning crapes in black
and white. The only true
'crape anglais' was
considered that made by
Courtaulds which was
last made in 1940.
Crepe de Sante
• An undyed, closely
woven, rough-textured
wool-blend crêpe mixed
with silk, linen or cotton,
also called "health
crepe’’.
Crepe de chine
• A fine, lightweight silk,
cotton, or worsted, with
a plain weave and crêpe-
twist filling.
Crepeline
• Very sheer plain-woven
silk usually used in textile
conservation. Originally
introduced in the 1870s
as a cheap alternative to
crepe de chine.

Crepon
• Crepon is generally made from
heavier fabric, and this
distinctive crepe was a mainstay
of the latter half of the 19th
century.
French Crepe
• Inaccurately applied to flat
crêpe.
• Plain-weave light silk or rayon
cloths similar to flat crêpe.
• A lingerie weight fabric with
ordinary yarn warp and a twisted
filling yarn that is less twisted
than typical crepe twist.
• Also, known as lingerie crepe.
Plisse
• Plisse crepe has been chemically
treated to result in a puckered
texture. This crepe variety is
popular in eveningwear.
Georgette
• Sheer, lightweight fabric named
after the couturiere Georgette
de la Plante.
• A crepe-surfaced plain weave silk
or synthetic fabric with
alternating S and Z twist yarns in
both warp and weft.
• English term for cotton crepe.

Fabric
breathability
depends upon
the type of
fibres.
High stretch
ability
Not much prone
to
pilling/bubbling
Low heat
retention
High moisture
wicking abilities
Hand wash or
cold water wash
Characterstcs of Crepe Fabric

Net Fabric
Net has been one of the most
sensual fabrics available in the
fashion industry. It is used widely to
create Indian ethnic attires as
well.Net fabric is usually used to
create sections of the garment. Or is
layered over a sturdier fabric in
order to cover the garment in its
entirety. It owes its popularity to the
mystical aura that it generates when
worn.
4

History Of Crepe Fabric
– Garments with elements of net can be traced back
to ancient India as well as western civilizations.
While historically the origin of this fabric remains
unclear, it is apparent that it has been used for
centuries. In terms of ethnic fashion, the oldest
net saree is traced to the pre-Mughal era.
– Net was used mostly by women in the court and
as they gave away more and more of their
belongings (as it was a custom to refrain from
repeating garments), this style filtered into the
sartorial choices of the common folk as well. Lace,
which is considered a form of net, traces its origins
to the Victorian Era. This was introduced to India
during the British Empire and was worn when
Indian women wanted to emulate the fashion
styles of the British women.
This Edwardian era antique black
swiss dot net burl wood handle
parasol dates from 1910

HOW IS NET
FABRIC
MADE ?
In net fabric, yarns are knitted,
knotted, looped or twisted at
intersections forming a piece of fabric
with lots of open spaces /holes. These
holes are formed in many geometric
shapes ( maybe four-sided, six-sided or
more). The shape can be square,
hexagonal or octagonal.

Three types of knitting for
making net fabrics…
Tricot Raschel Bobbinet

Raschel Knitting is the most common method of
making netting. In this netting geometric shaped
holes are formed by knitting yarns. The fabric is
formed by a combination of a pillar and tricot
stitches.
Raschel Knitting

What all Fibres can be used ?
– The net fabric can be made of different fibers like silk, polyester rayon, dacron,
acetate or nylon. This composition determines a lot about the feel of the fabric.
It can be fine or coarse or stiff. A silk net fabric is super soft whereas the nylon
netting is somewhat stiff. Polyester netting can be coarse to even very soft.
Most of the net you get in fabric shops is usually Nylon net.
– The size of the holes varies greatly in size depending on the function of the net
fabric. The type and size of the yarn, finishing given also determines the type of
netting fabric. The finishes applied on net include starch or resin type finish.

TYPES OF NET FABRICS
Net fabric is an umbrella term used for describing
open mesh fabrics. In net fabric, yarns are knitted,
knotted, looped or twisted at intersections forming a
piece of fabric with lots of open spaces /holes.

Tulle
• Tulle is a very fine net fabric
made by tricot method of
construction. The holes have a
hexagonal shape and are very
small in size. Tulle & illusion are
lightweight nettings made with
finer yarns and small hole sizes.
Tulle fabric has a very low denier
and this makes it very fine and
soft than any other netting
fabric.
Bobbinet
• It is usually a very thin net fabric
that is made like a lace but when
it is made with cotton yarn the
bobbinet fabric is a little heavier.
The holes are hexagonal in shape
and hence very distinctive. The
fabric though very fine is quite
strong. Good quality bobbinet
fabric is quite expensive.
Fishnet
• This is a slightly coarse netting. It
is made by knotting yarn similar
to a fisherman’s knot. It is made
of polyester or nylon yarn and
usually has a little bit of elastane
fibers added in for stretchiness.
It is used to make hosiery,
bodysuits, body stockings and
other clothing.
Maline
• Net fabric with diamond-shaped
holes. The fabric is very fine.

French Net
• This is a coarse net with large
six-sided (diamond
shaped) holes. This open
mesh fabric is used to make
Birdcage veils.
Russian Netting
• This is similar to french net
but with even larger holes.
English Merry Widow is a
similar netting.
Crinoline
• This is Nylon or polyester
filament net and is used to
make underskirts (Petticoat)
with lots of ruffles that will
give a full skirt silhouette to
the gowns on top. They are
usually designed in tiered
layers with lots of gathers to
give a voluminous look.
Point d’esprit
• This is a special type of
netting fabric with dots
embroidered or flocks
printed to the netting
surface. It is used in millinery
veil designs.

Fence Net
• This net fabric is used
mostly to make hosiery
(stockings) and has
spandex added to it to
make it stretchy. Usually
has large holes.
Industrial Net
• Net fabric with holes
larger than that of
regular fishnet and
smaller than fence net –
the strands are thick.
English Net
• This is a tulle fabric which
is made of cotton fibers.
The netting holes are fine
but the fabric is stronger
than other tulle fabrics. It
is popular as a fabric for
making veils.

Very Breathable
High stretch
ability
Not at all prone
to
pilling/bubbling
Low heat
retention
Medium
moisture
wicking abilities
Hand wash or
cold water wash
Also known as
Mesh Fabric
Characterstcs of Net Fabric

Use of Net Fabrics in
Dress-making
– In dressmaking net fabric is a big
boon. Lingerie, dresses, hosiery, bodysuits,
and bodystockings – there are so many
applications for the net fabric in garment
making. Net is usually used to make veils,
underskirts, interlining, to make overlays on
evening gowns. It is used as trimmings and
edging as ruffles and frills. It can change the
silhouette of a dress.
– It is a very useful fabric in millinery. A net
fabric with large holes is usually used for hat
veils. A net fabric with medium holes is
preferred for overlays for skirts etc. On
bridal veils, a net fabric with tiny holes is
preferred.

Chiffon Fabric
Chiffon is a term that is used to refer
to a wide variety of different types
of fabrics that all share similar
qualities. This type of fabric is sheer,
which means that it is light and
semi-transparent with a simple
weave.
5

History of Chiffon Fabric
The American actress Lillian
Gish in morning dress in chiffon
and lace in 1922
– Chiffon comes from the French word
chiffe, which means cloth or rag. The
first chiffons were made exclusively
from silk. Since chiffon was primarily
a silk fabric, it was very expensive
and its use in fashion and design
signified high status. In 1938, nylon
chiffon was invented, and polyester
chiffon came about in 1958. With
the creation of these synthetic
chiffons, the fabric became more
accessible and therefore more
popular for common use. Coat and skirt street suit of
gray chiffon broadcloth with
embroidery and lace
decoration (1905)

HOW IS
CHIFFON
FABRIC
MADE ?
Chiffon is a weaving process that produces a
lightweight, plain weave fabric with a slight
shine. The chiffon weave results in small
puckers that make the fabric a little rough to
the touch. These puckers are created through
the use of s-twist and z-twist crepe yarns,
which are twisted counter-clockwise and
clockwise respectively. Crepe yarns are also
twisted much tighter than standard yarns. The
yarns are then woven in a plain weave, which
means a single weft thread alternates over
and under a single warp thread. The sheer
fabric can be woven from a variety of textile
types, both synthetic and natural, like silk,
nylon, rayon, or polyester.

TYPES OF CHIFFON FABRICS
Chiffon fabric varies both in style and in the materials
that are used to make it:

– Material variations: This style of fabric can be made with a variety of different organic, semi-
synthetic, and fully synthetic materials like polyester, rayon, and silk.
– Silk crepe chiffon fabric: This type of fabric is what most people think of when they are asked to
visualize chiffon. It features the slightly puckered texture and relatively rough feel that made this
type of material famous.
– Silk satin chiffon fabric: This version of chiffon fabric is smoother than silk crepe, and it is more
transparent and lightweight.
– Pearl chiffon fabric : Featuring a pearlescent shade and glossy texture, this type of chiffon fabric
stands out from other versions of this textile.
– Jacquard chiffon fabric: While this type of chiffon fabric is quite thin, it also feels hefty when it is
picked up. It is commonly used in kurta dresses and scarves.
– Chameleon chiffon fabric: This type of chiffon is one of the rarest varieties on the market, and its
name is derived from its multi-toned appearance.
Silk crepe chiffon fabricPearl chiffon fabric Silk satin chiffon fabric

Characterstics
of Chiffon
Chiffon is a gossamer or gauze-like
fabric that is known for its sheer,
floating, and shimmery nature,
almost like tissue paper.
Sheer
• Chiffon-fabric has a sheer, transparent
appearance, and when held under a
magnifying glass, it looks like a fine net or
mesh.
Rough Feel
• There are slight puckers in chiffon due to the
alternating s-twist and z-twist yarns.
Stretch
• Chiffon has a slight spandex-like feel as a
result of being woven in different directions.
Silk chiffon has slightly more stretch than
polyester chiffon, as silk is naturally more
pliable
Strong
• Chiffon fabric, both silk and synthetic, is
extremely strong as a result of the twists of
the yarns and the tight weave of the fabric
Shimmery
• Chiffon has a shimmery surface. Silk chiffon
has the most shimmer, while cotton chiffon is
more matte.

• Drapes well
• Holds dye well Pros of
chiffon
• Difficult to work with
• Frays easily
• Loses shape over
time
Cons of
Chiffon

Silk Fabric
Silk is the strongest natural textile in the
world. This textile was just recently
surpassed in strength by a lab-engineered
biomaterial, but it remains the strongest
fabric made through natural processes.
Despite its immense tensile strength, silk
is generally prized for other reasons. Silk’s
softness has made it a hotly desired
commodity throughout history, and this
simple fiber has built legendary trade
routes and transformed cultures
throughout the Old World.
6

History of Silk Fabric
– History of silk began in the 27th century BC in China
where it remained in sole use until the commercial
ways appeared from China to the Mediterranean Sea.
There is also evidence of silk dating between 4000
and 3000 BCE. During the latter half of the first
millennium BC, Silk Road opens and silk starts to
spread the world. Cultivation of silk spread to Japan
somewhere around 300 CE while by 522 the
Byzantines managed to obtain silkworm eggs and
were able to begin silkworm cultivation of their own.
In time Chinese lost their secret to the Koreans and
later the Indians.
– In China, only women farmed silk worms. Many
women were employed on the farms of silkworms.
Silk was considered a luxury item and silk became
very popular among high society. Popularity was such
that laws were made to regulate and limit use of silk
to the members of the imperial family. That rule
stayed in power for over millennia. In time other
classes of Chinese society were allowed to wear silk.
Silkworm Cocoons

TYPES OF SILK FABRICS
It’s types depends on the type of silk filament used in
the making of it or else, it depends upon its weave
and production method

Mulberry Silk
•Across the world, this is one of the
most loved types of Silk. It is the key
source of bulk production of
commercial silk. Mulberry silk comes
from the silkworm, Bombyx mori
which solely feeds on the leaves of the
mulberry plant. These silkworms are
reared indoors. Majority of Mulberry
Silk is produced in Karnataka, Andhra
Pradesh, and Tamil Nadu. The states of
West Bengal and J & K come next in
mulberry silk production.
Eri Silk
•The Eri silkworm feeds on the leaves of
the castor oil plant. The Eri silk (also
known as Endi or Errandi silk) is white
or brick-red silk in color and is
produced more in Assam and the
adjacent North Eastern states. Since
Eri silk is durable, it is a great material
when it comes to manufacturing
clothing and soft furnishings such as
curtains.
Muga Silk
•The Muga silkworms belong to the
same family as India silkworms. But
the interesting thing is that they yield
an unusual golden-yellow silk thread
which is strong and attractive.
•The quantity of Muga silk produced is
low. That is why this silk is used in the
making of traditional Assamese
dresses.
Spider Silk
•Belongs to non-insect silk variety. Soft
and fine, strong and elastic, Spider silk
is not used much in the textile industry
because of its high cost of production.
But because of its resistance to
extremes in temps and humidity, this
is one of the most durable types of silk
and is used mostly for crosshairs in the
optical industry.

Sea Silk
•While the non-mulberry silks are of
insect origin, the Sea silks (often called
the “Mussel silk” are found in the
shallow waters. The mussels secrete a
strong brown filament – the byssus –
which is then combed and spun into a
silk called the “fish wool”. The
production of this silk happens most in
Taranto, Italy.
•Mussel silk is one of the most
expensive types of silks in the world!
Anaphe Silk
•This is one of the most exotic types of
silk as it hails from southern and
central Africa. The silk cocoons are in
communes, and all of them are
enclosed by a thin layer of silk. Anaphe
silk is used more in velvet and plush
light seat covers.
Coan Silk
•Belonging to the Mediterranean
region, the Coan silkworms primarily
feed on pine, ash cypress, juniper and
oak trees. They spin large white
cocoons.
•In ancient times, the Coan silk was
used to make the crimson-dyed
apparel worn by the Roman
dignitaries. With time, its commercial
production came to a stop due to the
emergence of superior varieties of silk
and its limited production.
Tasar Silk
•Next to mulberry silk, tasar silk is the
second-most produced type of silk
fabric. This variety of silk is wild, and it
is produced by silkworms native to
India. Japan is also home to tasar
silkworms, but the silk these worms
produce is green.

TYPES OF SILK FOR DRESSES,
SKIRTS, BLOUSES, ETC
Chiffon, crepe, georgette, taffeta, satin, jacquard,
organza — all of them are made out of precious
mulberry silk. However, each one has its own
peculiarities that affect the way the fabric feels and
looks.

Type & Weight Feel & look Suitable for
Chiffon
17-50 g/m 2
•diaphanous,
•airy,
•soft,
•quite rough,
•slippery,
•soft sheen
•dresses (for a wedding, ball
and proms),
•blouses,
•skirts,
•tunics,
•scarves
Crepe
90-200 g/m 2
•thin,
•pebbly surface,
•dramatic drape,
•requires much accuracy in
cutting and sewing,
•opaque
and proms),
•blouses,
•skirts,
•trousers
Crepe De Chine
70-100 g/m 2
•soft,
•air permeability,
•practicality,
•easily wrinkles
and proms),
•blouses,
•skirts,
•tunics
Georgette
40-70 g/m 2
•sheer,
•lightweight,
•woven of highly twisted
yarns,
•a slightly grainy texture,
•not as lustrous as chiffon
and proms),
•blouses,
•skirts

Taffeta
100-200 g/m 2
•decent sheen,
•stiffness,
•smooth surface,
•bad creasing,
•water repellency,
•durability,
•a typical ‘swish’ sound
and proms),
•skirts,
•jackets,
•raincoats,
•corsets,
•summer coats,
•blouses
Jacquard
100-200 g/m 2
•outstanding durability,
•stretch resistance,
•abrasion resistance,
•сolour retention,
•miserable affection by
temperature changes,
•smooth finish
•dresses,
•blouses,
•skirts,
•jackets,
•waistcoats,
•corsets,
•shirts,
•trousers (made of heavier
fabrics)
Satin
55-200 g/m 2
•durability,
•long-lasting shine,
•perfect moisture absorption,
•good anti staticity,
•excellent drapability
and proms),
•blouses,
•skirts,
•trousers (if weight is about 200
g/m 2)
Organza
22-50 g/m 2
•thin and sheer,
•stiff,
•gives shimmer,
•lightweight,
•easily wrinkles,
•requires dry cleaning
and proms),
•blouses,
•skirts

•lusturous
•Strong fibre
•Cool in summer and warm in cold
•Good for skin
•Good at shape retaining
•Good at moisture absorbing
•Has antistatic properties
•Resistant to acids and alkalines
Pros
•Vulnerable to sunlight
•Dry cleaning is a must
•Wrinkles easily
•Challenging to cut
Cons

Seam and
Seam
Finishes 67
• Plain seam
• French seam
• Flat-fell seam
• Serged seam
• Hairline seam
• Lapped seam
• Corded or
piped seam
• Mock French
Seam
• Welt seam
• Bias-bound
seam finish
• Clean finished
• Self bound
finish
• Hong kong
seam finish
• Serged seam
finish

About
Plain Seam
• This seam can be used on woven and knit fabrics and
on straight or curved areas.
• A plain seam is the simplest seam to make and is the
basis for many other seams.
• Most commonly used seam because of its simplicity
and quickness in making.
• It costs less in the production due to its simplicity ·
• It can be used on firm fabrics as it is a moderately
strong seam

Steps for
Plain Seam
• Place the right sides of the fabric together, matching
the stitching lines. Pin and/or hand baste.
• Stitch along the 5/8-inch seam line. Stitching may
begin and end with backstitching (stitch forward a few
stitches, then backward, then forward to the end). A
narrow, open zigzag stitch can be used on knit or
stretch fabrics.
• Press seam flat and then open.

About
French Seam
• The French seam is strong and durable.
• The raw edges of this seam are completely enclosed,
there is no need for an additional seam finish.
• This seam is usually used on lightweight woven, sheer,
and other delicate fabrics.
• It is a neat and inconspicuous seam.
• On bulky fabrics this seam would make more bulk.
• This seam is tricky for curves such as armhole.
• This seam can be used where threads would distract
from the integrity of the design.
• It can hide contrasting color threads.
• It can be used for garments worn close to the skin.

Steps for
French Seam
• Place the wrong sides of the fabric together, matching
the stitching lines.
• Stitch 3/8 inch from the cut edge of the fabric. Press.
• Trim to within 1/8 to ¼ inch of the stitching. Press
seam open.
• Fold fabric over at the seam, right sides together,
covering the cut edges. Press again.
• Stitch on seam line, approximately ¼ inch from the
folded edge, to enclose the raw edges.
• Press flat and then to one side.

About
Flat-Fell Seam
• It is the most durable seam.
• This seam can be stitched inside as well as outside the
garment.
• It is widely acceptable on sheer fabrics as no raw edges
are seen.
• No further seam finishes are required.
• This type of seam is mostly used on men’s sports shirts,
work clothes and children’s clothes and pyjamas.
• This seam is mainly designed for woven fabrics and
straight edges.
• Difficult to construct on heavy fabrics.
• Also used on reversible clothing.

Steps for
Flat-Fell
Seam
• Place the wrong sides of the fabric together. Stitch
along the 5/8-inch seam line to make a plain seam.
Press seam allowance to one side. Care should be
taken to avoid pressing a pleat along the seam line.
• Trim lower seam allowance (inside seam allowance) to
1/8 inch.
• Turn the top seam allowance edge under ¼ inch.
Press.
• Stitch folded edge to under fabric, enclosing the raw
edges.

About
Serged Seam
• This seam can be used if it is not important that seams
are kept flat or open.
• It can be used for loose garments.
• It can be used on lightweight fabrics.
• It is used for knits.
• This seam provides stretch and flexibility.
• It is super quick.
• Done with a serger and not by using a regular sewing
machine.

Steps for
SergedSeam
• Place right sides of the fabric together, matching the
stitching lines.The novice sewer may want to hand
baste.
• Guide fabric under the presser foot so that the needle
stitches on the seam line.The cutting blade(s) of the
serger will trim the seam allowances and the looper
threads will encase the fabric edges in thread creating
a seam finish.
• Press flat and then to one side.

About
Hairline Seam
• Follow the instructions on each slide to create your
presentation.
• It is used on sheer and light weight woven fabrics.
• It is not appropriate for medium weight or bulky
fabrics.
• It is especially nice for collars and enclosed areas and
can be used on straight or curved areas.
• Hairline seams eliminate visible seam allowances and
are often used in heirloom sewing

Steps for
Hairline
Seam
• Stitch along seam line using a short, straight stitch
(approximately 14 to 16 stitches per inch) or a narrow,
short zigzag stitch. (For a stronger seam or to give the
seam more weight, stitch over pearl cotton cord.)
• Trim close to the stitching, leaving approximately 1/8-
inch seam allowance. Press seam to one side.
• Turn right side out.
• Press.

About
Lapped Seam
• This is a very useful seam when sewing with heavy
fabrics like suede, artificial leather, felt.
• It is the only seam possible where other seams are not
possible in areas like attaching yoke of a blouse or
frock.
• It can give a decorative effect especially when a
contrast coloured thread is used as it is conspicuous
seam.

Steps for
Lapped Seam
• Mark seam allowances on both fabric pieces. On the
fabric piece that will be positioned on top (outside),
turn and press seam allowance under, along the seam
line.
• Position folded seam allowance on top of the
remaining seam allowance, matching folded edge to
seam allowance. Pin in place.
• Edge stitch close to folded edge.
• Press.
*The seam allowance may need a seam finish unless it is
covered by a lining or facing

About
Corded or Piped
Seam
• Corded Seams highlight corded trim that you use
between two layers of fabric in the seam.
• Used for both dress making and home décor.
• Cording can be used around collars, cuffs, pockets, or
anywhere to add a decorative accent to a seamline.
• Good places for Corded Seams on garments would be
places our wat to accentuate, for example, shoulders,
necklines, etc.

Steps for
Corded Seam
• Pin or baste cording to right side of one seam
allowance with seamlines even and raw edge towards
raw edge of seam allowance.Cording will need to be
clipped when applied to curved seams or when turning
corners. Use a zipper foot or cording foot to stitch
close to cording.
• Place seam allowances right sides together with
cording sandwiched in between, adjust needle
position slightly so stitching will be between the first
stitching and the cording.This will prevent any of the
previous stitching from showing on the outer side of
the seamline. Stitch the seam.

About
Mock French
Seam
• Installing a Mock French Seam takes a little more effort
and ironing than a regular French Seam, but it saves on
thread, which is useful if you’re doing a large garment
or using lots of seams.
• It’s also useful if you don’t have enough seam
allowance or fabric to wrap around the first Plain Seam
a second time.
• This seam is used when a French seam cannot be
handled well, such as on a curved seam line.
• This is an excellent seam to use in the sleeve/armhole
area of a sheer, special occasion garment, such as a
wedding or prom dress, or a sheer blouse/jacket.

Steps for
Mock French
Seam
• Place right sides of the seam allowances together.
Stitch along the regular seam line.
• Press seam open, then flat.
• Turn in both edges of the seam allowance
approximately ¼ inch. Press, then press together.
• Stitch the folded edges together close to the edge.

About
Welt Seam
• This seam will have exposed raw edges of the seams on
the wrong side.
• It is better to be used with fabrics which do not fray or
where the seam will not be seen.
• This is a great seam for a bulky fabric like felt or
synthetic leather.
• It is appropriate for garments like pants and bags.
• Stronger than plain seam for heavier fabrics.
• It will have the appearance of flat fell seam but is easier
to construct.

Steps for Welt
Seam
• With right sides of the fabric together, stitch a plain
seam. It is best to have at least a 5/8-inch seam
allowance. Press seam allowances together to one
side, then press open.
• Determine which direction your final seam will lie.
Trim the seam allowance that will be uppermost to the
outside of the item to ¼ inch. Press wider seam
allowance over the trimmed seam allowance.
• On the right side of the fabric, edge stitch close to the
seam line through all layers of fabric. Stitch again,
approximately 3/8 inch away, through fabric and
remaining seam allowance on the underneath side

About
Bias-Bound
Seam Finish
• The design is fairly simple, too; these types of seams
are ones where the raw edges of the seam are covered
by bias tape to help protect the edges.
• They usually come out looking clean and crisp.
• Hard and time taking to construct.
• Edges are not stressed and damaged.
• Gives a clean look on the inside of the fabric and does
not affect the outside.
• This method is often used on dresses and other
garments that will go without linings.

Steps for
Bias-Bound
Seam Finish
• With right sides of the fabric together, prepare a plain
seam. Press it open
• Encase each seam allowance edge in tape/binding. If
using bias tape, the longer edge should go on the
underneath side. If using tricot binding, pull gently to
get binding to fold slightly around the edge to be
bound.
• Stitch in place using a regulation straight stitch or a
long zigzag stitch. Press.

About
Clean Finished
• It is a quick and easy way to finish the seam
allowances.
• It makes the inside of the garment nearly as pretty as
the outside.
• It is also used throughout the garment when the fabric
is lightweight.
• It is often used to finish hem and facing edges.
• It is not appropriate for heavyweight or knit fabrics
because it produces bulk.
• This is very simple but surprisingly neat.
• Good for stable lightweight fabrics like cotton and line.
• Good for fabrics which presses well and hold a crease.

Steps for Clean
Finished Seam
seam. Press the seam open.
• Edge stitch ¼ inch from the raw edge of each seam
allowance.
• Turn the edge of the seam allowance under at the line
of stitching. Finger press.
• Stitch close to the edge through the folded fabric.

About
Self Bound
Seam Finish
• It looks like a tiny French seam.
• Inside of the garment is tidy and clean.
• Perfect for thin cottons and other wovens for a really
elegant interior.
• All the raw edges are hidden.
• Good for lightweight fabrics.
• It is well suited to sheer or see-through items,
especially when other finishes do not give them an
attractive appearance, as in a sleeve cap or arm hole.

Steps for Self
Bound Seam
Finish
• Begin with a plain seam.Trim one seam allowance to
1/8 inch.
• Turn remaining seam allowance under 1/8 inch and
press.
• Turn the folded seam allowance edge again over the
1/8inch seam allowance so that it is enclosed/encased.
Stitch close to the folded edge and the first line of
stitching.This last stitching can be done by hand or
machine.

About
Hong Kong
Seam Finish
• It is less bulky than other bound seams.
• Commonly seen in unlined jackets and coats.
• Also uses in tailored dresses and skirts.
• This seam finish works best on garments made from
medium to heavy weight fabric.
• It is time consuming.
• It can add a decorative touch if a contrasting or
coordinating print fabric is used as the binding
substance.
• One should choose a binding fabric that requires the
same care techniques as the fabric.

Steps for
Hong Kong
Seam
seam. Press open.
• Cut several 1¼- to 1½-inch-wide bias strips from
lining, lightweight broadcloth/print cloth, or other
lightweight woven fabric. Strips can match or
coordinate with the fabric color. Sew bias strips
together lengthwise, making a long continuous strip.
• With right sides together, match edge of bias strip to
single edge of seam allowance. Stitch ¼ inch from
edge. Repeat on other seam allowance.
• Fold bias strip over the edge, encasing raw seam
allowance. Press.

About
Serged Seam
Finish
• This finish is used on woven fabrics only since knits
don’t ravel.
• If knit fabric curls or rolls , it can be used.
• A 2-thread overedge stitch is used for lightweight
fabrics because it creates the least amount of bulk.
• It is super quick.
• Not classified as a high quality finish.
• Not done with a regular sewing machine.
• It is done with a serger.

Steps for
Serged Seam
Finish
• With right sides of the seam allowances together,
prepare a plain seam. Press.
• Set serger for appropriate 2- or 3-thread stitch. Stitch,
cutting away approximately 1/8 inch of the edge of
seam allowance. Depending on the construction area
and circumstances, edges may be finished separately
if they are to be pressed open.

Hem
Finishes 96
• Plain seam
• French seam
• Flat-fell seam
• Serged seam
• Hairline seam
• Lapped seam
• Corded or
piped seam
• Mock French
Seam
• Welt seam
• Bias-bound
seam finish
• Clean finished
• Self bound
finish
• Hong kong
seam finish
• Serged seam
finish

Appropriate Seam
&
Hem finishes
for
the
mentioned
fabrics

CHANDERI
FABRIC
SEAM AND SEAM FINISHES
The seam edges can also be
perfectly finished with a serger.
Edges finished with bias binding is
also beautiful and regularly used by
professionals.Turn and stitch also
works well. For silk based chanderi
fabric use French seams. Also a
hong kong seam can be done for
added beautification.
HEM FINISHES
Hand stitched hem is the best for
chanderi fabrics. A double folded
top stitched hem also looks neat
and crisp.
98

NET
FABRIC
A great thing about both net and tulle is
they don’t ravel, so no edge finishing is
needed, unless you want to do it purely
for decoration.
If you need to join seams, use a short
straight stitch. Since the fabric is see-
through, trim seams ⅛” away from the
stitching line to prevent show-through.
HEM FINISHES
Raw hem or no hem is used for net
fabrics since the fabric doesn’t ravel.
When cutting tulle or net, using a rotary
cutter rather than scissors helps to avoid
any jagged lines along the edge.
99

CHIFFON
FABRIC
This type of fabric is not the place to use
a 4 thread serger stitch.
A French Seam or stitching two rows of
stitching close to each other and then
trimming close to the stitching are your
best methods for constructing seams.
To finish edges, use a bias tape facing or
binding. It may be possible to make your
own bias tape from your fabric.
HEM FINISHES
A deep hem will most certainly show
through the fabric so a rolled hem, sewn
with a serger or a narrow turned under
hem is best. 10
0

VELVET
FABRIC
SEAMSAND SEAM FINISHES
Velvet is a special fabric that deserves a
special finish.
In cases where a lining is not possible,
keep seam finishes lightweight and
simple, avoiding bound seams and French
seams. Instead, opt for a serged edge or
use an open zigzag stitch for a finish that
won’t add bulk to your seams.
HEM FINISHES
Hems should take the same rules into
consideration.Avoid bulk and topstitching
by creating a single-fold, blind-stitched
hem. Once your hem is securely stitched
use ample steam to smooth your hemline. 10
1

SILK
FABRIC
If you have a higher-quality Silk fabric for a more
formal garment, try the more polished techniques
such as French or Hong Kong seams.Turn and
stitch seam works on straightcut, bias-cut, and
curved seams when the silk fabric is opaque. Use
hong kong seam on stable silk fabrics. French seam
is best for lightweight silk fabrics.
HEM FINISHES
Use a rolled hem for a neat, barely visible finish.Try
sewing a rolled hem on the sewing machine or by
hand.You can also sew a rolled hem on the
overlocker or serger, this method isn’t as neat as
the above but is perfect for use on certain
garments such as a lining. 10
2

CREPE
FABRIC
It’s important to remember to
finish the seams of any project
using this fabric.You can use an
overcast or zigzag stitch if you
don’t have a serger. Another great
seam finish for crepe fabrics is
french seams. One can also use a
serger
HEM FINISHES
A Blind hem using a Blindstitch
Foot is a great option for creating
a professional hemline using these
fabric substrates.
10
3

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