The document discusses quality checking in the apparel sector, emphasizing the importance of various quality parameters for fibers, yarns, and fabrics. It defines acceptable quality levels (AQL), explores fiber and yarn testing, and highlights key fabric quality checks such as GSM, pilling tendency, and drape ability. The final inspection process before shipment is outlined, detailing issues such as fabric defects, workmanship defects, and measurement deviations.

1. Quality Checking in
Apparel Sectors
Presented By:
Zahidul Islam (1521022)
Mahitosh Sarker Mahim (1521011)
Syed Samin Yasar (1521035)
Rifa Rafia Ali (1521034)
Samanwoy Saha (1521028)

2. What is Quality?
Quality may define as the level of acceptance of goods or services. It is a
relative term. It completely depends on customer satisfaction. Actually
product quality is based on product attribute. In textile and apparel industry,
quality is calculated in terms of quality and standard of fibres, yarns, fabric
construction, colour fastness, designs and the final finished garments.

3. AQL
A certain proportion of defective will always occur in any manufacturing
process. If the percentage does not exceed a certain limit, it will be
economical to allow the defective to go through instead of screening the
entire lot. This limit is called the "Acceptable Quality Level" ( AQL )

4. Fibre Quality Checking
In fiber testing, there are various properties of fiber have to be checked
according to an end product. Mainly fiber testing is carried out in spinning
and nonwoven departments.

5. Physical Properties of Cotton
• Thickness: Micronaire value from 3 to 6
• Color: White
• Length: Minimum 0.5 inch
• Tenacity: Medium to good, 26 to 43 cN/tex
• Moisture regain: 7-8.5%
• Elongation: 3.5 to 7.5 %
• Maturity: 0.92-1
• Trash Grade: 3 – 4 points(Trash Cnt + Trash Areas)
These Cotton parameters are suitable for A-Grade Yarn for all counts.

6. Fibre Quality Checking
• Staple length.
• Fiber fineness.
• Textile Fiber Strength.
• Maturity.
• Rigidity.
• Fiber Friction.
• Short fiber %.
• Trash content, etc.

7. Measurement of Fiber Length
A fiber is defined as a unit of matter with a minimum length of 100 times its
diameter, flexible, and capable of being woven. From the definition we can tell
length is one of the most important parameter of textile fiber. The length of fiber is
an important aspect of raw material classification.

8. Staple Length
The most frequent length in a fibrous sample is called staple length.
Staple length is one of the most important factors of cotton quality
because both fiber fineness and fiber tensile strength are associated
with staple length.

9. Yarn Quality checking
The yarn is raw material for fabric production so it becomes necessary to test
the yarn for particular required fabric production.

10. Parameters of yarn tested mainly are
• Single yarn strength
• Lea strength
• Moisture regain.
• Hairiness.
• Friction.
• Abrasion.
• Twist measurement.
• Count.
• Yarn elongation.

11. Yarn Count Range for Different GSM
Selection of yarn count is very important task for production manager of
knitting. Knitted fabric is made with the help of yarn loops. Yarn of different
counts is used to produce different GSM fabric. Yarn count and GSM is directly
related. If yarn count is lower than higher GSM and vice versa.
Fabric GSM(finished) Yarn Count
130 – 150 30/1
150 – 160 28/1
160 – 170 26/1
170 – 190 24/1
190 – 220 20/1
Fabric GSM(finished) Yarn Count
160 – 180 34/1
180 – 200 30/1
200 – 220 28/1
220 – 240 26/1
240 – 260 24/1
Table B: For Rib Fabric:-Table A: For Single jersey:-

12. Short fiber content
SFC has positive correlation with the yarn Hairiness. Increase in SFC
will increase yarn hairiness and vice versa. The increase in number of
protruding ends in yarn surface due to shorter fiber length leads to
increase the yarn hairiness.

13. Yarn Properties
• Yarn Appearance:
The Visual Effect obtained by viewing a sample of yarn wound with a
designated traverse on a black board of designated size.
• Yarn Evenness:
Unevenness: Variation in the linear density of a continuous strand or of a
portion of a strand.
• Linier Density of Yarn:
Expression of the fineness of yarn.
A number indicating the mass per unit Length or the length per unit mass
of Yarn.
• Single Thread Strength Testing:
Force Required to break a single strand of yarn of unit length.

14. Yarn Properties
• Lea Strength Testing:
Lea Breaking Strength
The Force required to break one lea
• Twist Testing:
S –Twist: When Held in vertical position, the spiral confirm in slope to the
central position of the letter ‘S’
Z –Twist: When Held in vertical position, the spiral confirm in slope to the
central position of the letter ‘Z’
• Count Test:
Wrap reel
Balance
120 yards of yarn / 100 meters of yarn wound in a wrap reel and weighed .
From the weight, the count is calculated.

15. Fabric Quality Checking
Our ultimate aim is to achieve optimum quality fabric. So to check whether
the quality is achieved or not testing of fabric is done.

16. Fabric Quality Checking
• GSM.
• Pilling tendency.
• Drape ability or hanging property.
• Moisture %.
• Crease recovery and crease resistance.
• Stiffness.
• Air permeability.
• Shrinkage, etc.

17. GSM
‘GSM’ means ‘Gram per square meter’ that is the weight of fabric in gram per
one square meter. By this we can compare the fabrics in unit area which is
heavier and which is lighter.
Clothing
Wear
GSM Details
Plain T-shirt 180 GSM
Suitable for Summer Wear and as inner
wear during winters.
Polos 240 GSM
Suitable for Office Wear and Party Wear
during summers.
Hoodies 320 GSM
Suitable for Winterwear due to its
thermal Insulation

18. Pilling tendency
Pilling is a fabric surface fault characterized by little ‘pills’ of
entangled fibre clinging to the cloth surface and giving the garment an unsightly
appearance. It is bunches or balls of tangled fibres which are held to the surface
of a fabric by one or more fibres.

19. Causes of Pilling
• Due to soft twisted yarn.
• Due to excess short fibres.
• Due to migration of fibres from constituent yarn in fabric.
• Due to protruding fibre / yarn hairiness.
• Due to heat in case of thermoplastic fibres.

20. Drape ability
Drape is the term used to describe the way a fabric hangs under its own weight.
It has an important bearing on how good a garment looks in use. The draping
qualities required from a fabric will differ completely depending on its end use,
therefore a given value for drape cannot be classified as either good or bad.
The air permeability of a fabric is a measure of how well it allows the
passage of air through it. The ease or otherwise of passage of air is of
importance for a number of fabric end uses such as industrial filters,
tents, sailcloths, parachutes, raincoat materials, fabrics and airbags.
Air Permeability

21. Final Inspection
Final quality inspections are the last activity which performed before shipment.
After complete the pre-final or lot pass inspection, this kind of inspection process
commonly coordinated by final inspector before the shipment, it’s called final
inspection. It is also known as pre-shipment inspection.

22. A. PACKING & ASSORTMENT
• Wrong Model
• Wrong Quantity
• Missing labels & tags
• Wrong Size & Colour assortment
• Wrong Folding
Final Inspection

23. B. FABRIC DEFECTS
• Wrong Shade
• Uneven dyeing
• Holes
• Knitting stripes
• Thick & Thin places
• Dirt & Stains
• Oil stains
• Sinker line
• Poor softness
• Higher Shrinkage
• Crease Marks
Final Inspection

24. C. WORKMANSHIP DEFECTS
• Open seam
• Puckering
• Needle holes & marks
• Unbalanced sleeve edge
• Unbalanced placket
• Insecure shoulder stitch
• Incorrect side shape
• Bottom hem bowing
Final Inspection
• Uneven neck shape
• Cross labels
• Broken & Missing stitch
• Insecure buttons
• Untrimmed threads &
fabrics
• Poor Ironing

25. D. MEASUREMENT DEVIATIONS
• Garment length
• Body width
• Shoulder length
• Arm hole
• Arm Opening
• Sleeve length
• Placket length
• Placket width
• Neck width
• Neck opening
Final Inspection

26. E. GENERAL DEFECTS
• Shade variation within the garment parts
• Shade variation between the garments
• Defective printing
• Defective embroidery
• Defective buttons
Final Inspection

27. Conclusion
Testing and quality control is the essential thing in textile without
which we cannot give the performance assurance of textile
product.
Though it helps to assure performance, it is necessary to do the
testing and control of quality very carefully and required skilled
workers.
So that quality of a manufactured textile product can meet the
standard norms and satisfy the customer’s need.

28. Thank You Everyone
