3rd Year Conservation.

1. NURUL AQILA AHAMAD KAMAL 1412832
3RD YEAR CONSERVATION DESIGN
LECTURER : MDM. RAJABI ABDUL RAZAK
THE ART OF LEATHER‘MINI STOOL INSPIRED FROM NUSANTARA CILIZATION’

2. INTRODUCTION

3. NUSANTARA?
Nusantara is a contemporary Indonesian term for
the Indonesian archipelago. It originated in Old
Javanese and literally means "archipelago". In
Malay, Nusantara means the Malay world.
LEATHER?
Leather is the name given to animal hides and
skins which have been processed and tanned to
create a durable material.
Fig1:Stacksof
RawLeather
Source:Leather
France,(2009)
INTERESTING
FACTS
-In1965,a
typeof sheep
leather,
shearlings,was
usedtoprevent
andtreatbed
soresforpatients
whohadlong
staysinhospitals.

4. HISTORY

5. HISTORY?
• Through archaeologist's findings, we know
that primitive man used the skins of hunted
animals for food as well as clothing.
• The fact that the skins turned stiff and
rotted was a problem, but ways of softening
and preserving the hides were discovered.
• This was the beginning of leather
processing.
• At first the hides or skins were probably
dried in air and sunlight.

6. HISTORY?
Fig2: Theanimalwere
harvestedoncecaught.
Source:Ojibwa(2012)
Fig3: Hideswerestakedoutin
suntodry.
Source:Ojibwa(2012)

7. TIMELINE

8. TIMELINE?
-Use of raw hide.
-Preservation
with fats, brains
and wood
smoke, a
method still
used by some.
Early Man
- Excavation of
Palaeolithic sites has
yielded bone tools used
for scraping hides and
skins to remove hair.
Their shape is similar to
modern tools used for
the same purpose.
- Wall paintings
and artefacts
found in excavated
tombs show that
leather was used
for sandals,
clothes, gloves,
buckets, bottles,
shrouds for burying
the dead and for
military
equipment.
40,000 BC - 10,000 BC
(Palaeolithic)
Ancient Egypt
- According to
Homer, the god
Ailos gave
Odysseus a
leather bag filled
with storm winds
to help him reach
Ithaca.
- From around
the same time as
Homer, leather
scrolls have been
found with
translations of
Babylonian texts
into Aramaic and
Greek.
- Widespread use
of leather for
footwear, clothes,
military equipment
including shields,
saddles and
harnesses.
- Excavation of
Roman sites in
Great Britain has
yielded large
quantities of
leather articles
including footwear
and clothing.
- Most towns and
villages had a
tannery, situated on a
stream or river which
they used as a source
of water for
processing and as a
source of power for
water wheel driven
machines.
8th Century BC Roman Empire
Medieval Era
-Birth of the poet Geoffrey
Chaucer which family's
financial success came from
involvement in wine and
leather.
-The Worshipful Company of
Leather sellers are granted
articles for the regulation of
their craft during Richard
(Dick) Whittington's reign as
Lord Mayor of London.
1300-160018th/19th Century
- The industrial
revolution created
demand for new kinds
of leathers such as
belting leathers to drive
machinery and leathers
for diaphragms and
washers.
20th Century
- The demand for
softer, lightweight
footwear and a
general rise in the
standard of living
created a demand
for soft, supple,
colourful leather.

9. Leather Tanning ProcessLEATHER TANNING
PROCESS

10. LEATHER TANNING?
• In other to make leather soft and pliable for use, it
must be put through a tanning leather process.
• Leather is usually tanned in one of two ways:
1. CHROME TANNING
2. VEGETABLE TANNING
• Leather can be made of any type of skin or hide,
however, some types of skins are better for one
purpose than another.
• The reason for tanning leather is to change the skin
or hide’s protein structure.

11. CHROME TANNING ?
• One good thing about chrome tanning is that it
produces leather that is very water resistant.
• On the other hand, this type of tanning process does
not produce a very breathable sort of leather.
• When chrome tanning is used, the leather will be
soaked in a solution containing metal chromium.
People with chemical sensitivities may have problems with chrome tanned leather.
• It’s important to purchase leather goods that have
tanned with environmental that ensure proper use
and disposal of the chemicals for the least
environmental impact.

12. CHROME TANNING ?
Fig4:Theleatheraresoakedinchemicals.
Source:Worldofleathers(2016)

13. VEGETABLE TANNING?
• The skins are soaked in vegetable liquors.
• This is time consuming process as a series of soaks
is required.
• For a more traditional and less hazardous tanning
leather process, purchasing leather goods that have
undergone vegetable tanning is a good choice.
• Leather has been vegetable tanned is usually quite
thick, but it is still pliable. This type leather can be
mold, stretch and breathe.
• It does not stand up to heat as well and may shrink
or crack if overheated.

14. Fig4:Theleatherare
soakedinchemicals.
Source:Worldofleathers
(2016)
VEGETABLE TANNING?

15. CHROME TANNING &
VEGETABLE TANNING ?
• This two-step process begins with chrome tanning.
• Once that process is complete, the resulting leather
in tanned again using vegetable liquors.
• Combines vegetable and chrome technique.
• The resulting leather is durable and soft because of
the chrome tanning. It is also flexible and thick
because of vegetable tanning.
• People with chemical sensitivities may have less
problems with leather produced in this manner
because the vegetable tanning process may help
remove some of the chemicals used in the chrome
tanning process.

16. TYPES OF LEATHER

17. VEGETABLE TANNING?
• The various kinds of leather used in
products are:
1.Full grain leather
2.Split leather
3.Suede leather
4.Regenerated leather
5.Coated leather
6.Faux leather
• There are various types of leather, and each
types is suited to particular applications

18. FULL GRAIN LEATHER
• Full grain leather has not been touched up to
cover any imperfections.
• A lot of the skin on original hides gets damaged
by scratches and other imperfections and may
need to be treated to create what is known as
corrected full grain leather.
• It can be dyed and has very strong texture
and can last for generations and, in fact, starts
to look better after it has been used over a long
time.
• By far the most expensive of all types of
leather.

19. FULL GRAIN LEATHER
Fig5:Fullgrainleather.
Source:Worldofleathers(2016)

20. SUEDE LEATHER
• When such split leather is buffed on both
side it creates a soft and fuzzy surface that
is commonly known as suede leather.
• Because it can be made from many splits in
leather, it become much cheaper than full
grain leather.
• The buffing does make it vulnerable to
liquids and greatly reduces its durability.

21. Fig6:Suedeleather.
Source:Worldofleathers(2016)
SUEDE LEATHER

22. REGENERATED LEATHER
• Regenerated leather is leather that has gone
through a manufacturing process that
compresses it, a process that make it strong
and hard wearing.
• It allows even low grades original hides to
be converted, thereby increasing the
usability of available skins.
• These type of leather are cheaper than
genuine leather.

23. Fig7: Regeneratedleather.
Source:Worldofleathers(2016)
REGENERATED LEATHER

24. FAUX LEATHER
• Faux Leather is a fake leather that is
created from all-synthetic, man-made
materials to make for leather look-alike
fabrics that are can be difficulty to
differentiate from the genuine article.
• It is very durable and takes a lot to wear
and tear, and has great advantages over
genuine leather due to its low cost.

25. Fig8: FauxLeather.
Source:Worldofleathers(2016)
FAUX LEATHER

26. CASE STUDY

27. CASE STUDY 1:
• This bar stool is made with a solid wood
frame and top grain leather. Dark, brown
finish complements the dark brown leather
with brass nail head trim.
• Type of Product: Bar Furniture
• The function for this furniture are as the
seating for the mini bar counter.

28. CASE STUDY 1:
Fig9: CounterStool.
Source:D-Art(2012

29. Fig 10: The wood for the
seating were measured.
Fig 11: The wood for
seating base are cut.
Fig 12: The seating are
measured and drilled.
Fig 13: A foam are cut
following the base size.
Fig 14: The foam are then
drilled.
Fig 15: The foam are then
cover by a piece of fiber
and leather.
Fig 16: A hole were made by
using big size needle and
piece of decoration are
placed on top of the hole.
Fig 17: The needle are
stapled behind the base.
Fig 18: Step 17 and 18 are
repeated.
Fig 19: Finished the
leather by arrange it
nicely and stapled it.
Fig 20: The finished seating
with leather are then
attached with the stool’s leg.
Fig 21: The stool are
finished and ready to use.

30. CASE STUDY 2:
• Made in Manding Village, Yoogyakarta.
• Type of Product: Sling Bag
• The motif carved on the bag are influenced
by Javanese which is the lotus flower
symbolizes of longevity.
• This sling bag can be used by both male and
female.
• The function for this sling bag are for daily
uses and also suitable for any leisure
activities.

31. CASE STUDY 2:

32. Fig 22: Design were transferred to
the Leather
Fig 23: Use the swivel knife to cut the
lines..
Fig 25: Little decoration stuff
were added.
Fig 26: Tool named a "seeder",
makes little circles that look like the
seeds in plants or flowers.
Fig 27: Background tool were used and
were stamp down all the background
to make the design stand out.
Fig 28: Finishing touch were
applied.
Fig 29: Finished all the leather
surrounding the beg.
Fig 30: The product are finished
Fig 24: Edges were bevel to which
motif want to stand out.

33. CASE STUDY 3:
• Made in Manding Village, Yoogyakarta.
• Type of Product: Knife/Scissor Sheath
• This sheath usually were wear along with
the belt.
• The types of leather used is cattle and the
finishes is brown colour.
• The function of this sheath are usually used
by the fabric worker. They usually put
scissor or any other fabric tools.

34. CASE STUDY 3:

35. Leather Tanning Process
CONSERVATION &
PRESERVATION

36. CONSERVATION &
PRESERVATION
Fig 31: Object before treatment.
Source: Kate Fulcher (2015)
• This Medieval bag belongs to the Museum of
London collections.

37. CONSERVATION &
PRESERVATION
• The date and (assumed) origin of the bag
suggests that it was vegetable tanned, because
this was by far the most prominent type of
tanning used in Europe in the medieval period.
• From comparisons to known samples, the leather
appears to be calf skin.
• Bags or purses of this period were worn by men
and women on a girdle or belt, and were used
to carry small items, including money.

38. CONSERVATION &
PRESERVATION
• The treatment decided upon was designed to
remove the dressing from the leather as much
as possible, and reshape and repair to
represent the bag as originally constructed.
• The leather of the bag was in a delicate
condition, in some areas more than others, and
this situation was exasperated by the dressing,
which had led to the bag becoming very sticky
and therefore dirty. This is distracting from the
history and aesthetics of the object.

39. CONSERVATION &
PRESERVATION
• Before cleaning, the modern stitching was
removed mechanically from the seams and the
tear.
• The dressing used on the object was likely a
complex mixture of substances; the object was
fully immersed in solvents baths of petroleum
spirit, white spirit and IMS, in total eight time.
• After drying, the object reshaped using
humidification.

40. CONSERVATION &
PRESERVATION
Fig 32: Mend to tear on Side B.
Source: Kate Fulcher (2015)

41. CONSERVATION &
PRESERVATION
• The leather is in a completely different condition to
the condition it was in when it came for treatment.
The leather is now slightly more flexible, and
totally different in appearance, and the leather
grain can now been seen, whereas before it was
obscured by the dressing.
Fig 33: Object
after treatment.
Source: Kate
Fulcher (2015)

42. CONCLUSION

43. CONCLUSION
• Many people appreciate leather as natural material
and are interested in – but often do not really
know which one they have on hand.
• Leather is a living material that time will embellish
and enhance with a patina, provided that it is cared
for at regular intervals, using appropriate
treatments.
• To preserve its appearance and colour, leather
should be protected from direct sunlight, heat and
water, as well as from sebum, which may cause loss
of pigment and staining on its surface.
• It is advisable to call upon an expert when
renovating leather garments and furniture.

44. REFERENCES
1. A Brief History Of Leather (2012), Retrieved from
http://www.grittyrusticleather.com/blogs/news/120655811-a-brief-history-
of-leather, Retrieved 5th September 2016
2. BLC Leather Technology Centre Ltd, “Where does leather come from?”
(2007), Retrieved from http://www.all-about-leather.co.uk/what-is-
leather/where-does-leather-come-from.htm, Retrieved 5th September 2016
3. World of leathers, “What is the Best Tanning Leather Process?” (2016),
Retrieved from http://www.worldofleathers.com/leather-guide-and-
info/what-is-the-best-tanning-leather-process/ Retrieved 5th September 2016
4. World of leathers “The Diverse Uses for Different Types of Leather” (2016),
Retrieved from http://www.worldofleathers.com/leather-guide-and-info/the-
diverse-uses-for-different-types-of-leather/ Retrieved 6th September 2016
5. Kate Fulcher, Medieval Leather Bag Conservation (2015), Retrieved from
http://www.katefulcherconservation.com/leather-bag.html Retrieved 7th
September 2016

45. THANK YOU 