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How To Buy
Leather Goods
& Travel In
Style, For
Founders - Part One
POWERED BY : MANNY
TWITTER: @THEBESTMANNYO
WEB: HTTPS://MBLOG.BJMANNYST.COM
EMAIL: INFO[AT]FOUNDERSUNDER40.COM
SPONSORED BY: BJ MANNYST
+ FOUNDERS UNDER 40™ GROUP
(#1 UNCOVENTIONAL FOUNDERS COMMUNITY)
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WELCOME
THANK YOU TO OUR SOURCES OF INSPIRIATION &
OUR CONTENT SPONSORS. PLEASE VISIT THEIR
WEBSITES BY CLICKING IMAGES / FOLLOW THE
LINKS. FYI: THIS VERSION FOCUSES ON MEN.
https://www.nordstrom.com
https://www.amazon.com
https://www.zara.com
https://www.nordstrom.com
https://www.facebook.com/gqbull
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WELCOME
FIRST, On Behalf of myself, Emmanuel “Manny”
Omikunle + BJ MANNYST (Marketing Service Provider) +
Founders Under 40™ Group (10000+ founders ) + family +
friends + the whole entrepreneur community,
We want to wish you,...HAPPY THANKSGIVING +
HAPPY BLACKFRIDAY + HAPPY HOLIDAYS +
MERRY CHRISTMAS + HAPPY NEW YEAR + HAPPY
BUYING AND LOOKING SMART!!
THANK YOU!
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WELCOME
GIVE A SPECIAL
CONFIDENT MAN
IN YOUR LIFE UNIQUE-
QUALITY-LEATHER-
ACCESORIES!
https://www.nordstrom.com
https://www.amazon.com
https://www.zara.com
https://www.nordstrom.com
https://www.facebook.com/gqbull
GIVE
LEATHER
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What is
Leather?
Leather is a durable and flexible material created by
tanning animal rawhide and skins. The most common raw
material source is cattle hide. It can be produced at
manufacturing scales ranging from artisan to modern
industrial scale.
WELCOME
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WELCOME
Sources ofLeather
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It Starts
With Source
The leather shoes, pants, jackets, bags, belt, and wallets all began
life from a source. After all, it's not like it suddenly rains
leather material.
The reality today is that most quality leather goods are made from
cattle hides, which make up about 75% of all leather produced. The
rest of the leather goods are usually made from other animals like
sheep, goats, and pigs, And a tiny percentage are from other animals
like Horses, Snakes, Crocodile, Alligator, Kangaroo, Stingray,
Deerskin Sharks,..etc
And each source has its best use case. Some leather material from a
alligator might be preferred because of the scales or sometimes it's
just a way to brag and impress others.
WELCOME
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ESOME
LEATHER
FACTS
DID YOU KNOW TOP GRAIN LEATHER
IS NOT THE HIGHEST QUALITY OF
LEATHER?
Due to it’s name, people often confuse
top grain leather with being the most
genuine and highest quality leather you
can buy when in fact, full grain is
considered the highest quality leather
available on the market.
LISANNA
01
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WELCOME
What Kind of Bull Are You Made of?
GQBULL
LIFE, WORK, BUSINESS &
RELATIONSHIPS ARE ALL A GRIND.
You either show your bullish side or die
trying. Show it with GQBULL (Gutsy
Quincy Bull). Unique - Luxury Men
Accessories.
VISIT GQBULL
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WELCOME
How Leather Is Made
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Animal to
Production
Since you've found the source of animal, most likely cattle, you or a
manufacturer are going to have to make leather. Well. . .I will assume
most readers rather buy finished leather goods than make it.
It is a process not consided all roses. Like everything that becomes
consumer goods, it has to go through a series of processes. It is
complex and time consuming. A series of treatments that require
considerable time and energy. Tanning is the key. The purpose of the
tanning process is to alter the protein structure of the skin to increase
its durability, texture, and appearance.
The Steps Involve: preparatory steps, the animal skin needs to be
skinned and cured with salt to remove water , transfered to tanning,
re-tanning, and finishing. Sometimes, a further sub-process of surface
coating may be added to the process. Although curing is not
considered a part of the tanning process, it is the first crucial step in
obtaining leather.
WELCOME
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ESOME
LEATHER
FACTS
DID YOU KNOW YOU CAN GET
SALMON LEATHER?
This is one you’ve probably never heard
before but you can actually buy leather
which comes from the skin of a salmon.
DID YOU ALSO KNOW THAT THERE
ARE MANY TYPES OF CATTLE
BREEDS?
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01
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ESOME
LEATHER
STEPS A
Preparatory Steps
The cured skin or animal hide needs to be
prepared for the tanning process. Although there
are various preparatory processes, the purpose
of each process is to remove unwanted raw skin
components. The tannery may not perform all of
them, depending on the quality and type of the
desired product.
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L E AT H E R S T E P S A - C O N T I N U E
NOTE: READ DOWNWARDS FOR STEPS 6 - 10
• Liming: This process loosens the fibers and allows the skin to
absorb various tanning chemicals. Usually, sodium sulfide and
hydrated lime are used to treat the hide, as they remove
keratinous material such as hair and wool. Fats get hydrolyzed as
the pH increases. Water is absorbed into the skin fibers, resulting
in a swollen skin structure.
• De-Liming: In this process, the hide is washed with a mixture of
water and ammonium chloride or ammonium sulfate. This
removes water (along with any impurities) to reduce swelling.
• Bating: Bating marks the end of the liming process. The flaccid
skin is treated with proteolytic bating enzymes to remove non-
fibrous proteins. It cleans the grain and makes the pelt smooth
and silky.
• De-Greasing: Sometimes, water-based solutions and solvents
are used to remove excess grease or natural fatty acids from the
skin.
• Bleaching: Chemical agents are used to making the hide
colorless to add the desired color at a later stage.
LISANNA
01NOTE: READ DOWNWARDS FOR STEPS 1 - 5
• Soaking: At this stage, the cured hide is soaked in water for
several hours to several days. This process not only restores the
moisture lost during salting, but helps to remove dirt, debris, blood,
and excess animal fats.
• Fleshing: This process removes subcutaneous material from the
flesh side. The pelt is passed through a machine to remove the
fat, muscle, and flesh mechanically. Usually, this process takes
place after slaughter, soaking, or liming. At this stage, or after
tanning, hides may be split into different layers.
• Un-hairing: Hair is removed at this stage using mechanical
instruments such as rollers and blades.
• Pickling: This process involves cleaning and soaking the rawhide
in acids or salts to prevent decomposition. It helps the penetration
of tanning agents such as chromium and aldehydes. Stronger
pickling agents are used to preserve hides for several months.
• De-Pickling: The hide is soaked in sulfuric acid to lower the pH
after pickling.
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ESOME
LEATHER
STEPS B
Tanning
The primary purpose of this process is to produce
a non-decomposable and sturdy material from the
raw animal hide, called leather. Essentially,
tanning converts the protein of the rawhide into a
durable material. The most common tanning
processes include mineral tanning, vegetable
tanning, and glutaraldehyde tanning.
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L E AT H E R S T E P S B - C O N T I N U E
2) Mineral or Chrome Tanning: Mineral or chrome tanning is the
most popular tanning process because it’s much quicker, affordable,
and less labor intensive than the others. In 1858, it was introduced as
an alternative to the expensive and time-consuming vegetable
tanning process. The process can be automated and lasts a day at
most. Usually, the time for chromium tanning is around 2 or 3 hours
for small and thin skins. However, it can go up to 24 hours for thicker
ones obtained from cattle.The size of chrome molecules is small
compared to vegetable tannin ions. As a result, chrome ions can
penetrate the collagen and remove water molecules effectively.
That’s why chrome tanned leather is thinner and softer than
vegetable tanned leather. Chromium (III) sulfate is the most efficient
and effective tanning agent. Chrome tanned leather is also called wet
blue leather due to its bluish color.However, the chrome tanning
process creates a negative environmental impact as it comprises
heavy usage of acids and other chemicals. The toxic waste can seep
into groundwater and contaminate drinking water supplies. The
resulting environmental implications are a major concern, especially
in developing countries.
LISANNA
011) Vegetable Tanning: Vegetable tanning has been around for
thousands of years. Unlike mineral tanning, it uses a naturally
occurring polyphenol astringent chemical called tannin. This is usually
found in bark, leaves, and branches of trees such as oak, chestnut, or
mimosa. As it produces shades of deep brown, beige, yellow, and red,
tannin lends a unique color and texture to the leather. However, the
process is time-consuming, laborious, and expensive. There are two
types of vegetable tanning processes. The slow process takes about
30 days, while the rapid tanning process only lasts about 36 to 48
hours. Sometimes, however, the slow process can take several
months, as it may require multiple treatments. This process produces
highly durable leather. So, the vegetable tanned leather is often used
to make products such as saddles or holsters. The unmatched
durability and distinct appearance makes this leather suitable for
imprinting and intricate leatherwork such as tooling.
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L E AT H E R S T E P S B - C O N T I N U E
Image: Tanning in Solution
)
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013) Aldehyde Tanning: This tanning process uses glutaraldehyde or
oxazolidine compounds. It is also called wet white leather due to its
pale cream color. Aldehyde tanned leather is water absorbent, soft,
and can be machine washed. It is, therefore, perfect for use in
chamois.
4) Oil Tanning: Sometimes, emulsified oils are blended with
aldehyde chemicals to produce exceptionally soft and flexible leather.
This process is called oil tanning.
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ESOME
LEATHER
STEPS C
Re-Tanning
Re-tanning converts the tanned leather into a
marketable product. The choice of chemicals
used in this process depends on the desired color
and texture in the final product.
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L E AT H E R S T E P S C - C O N T I N U E
Image: Dyeing Drum
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011) Drying: At this stage, the tanned leather is pressed between two
rolling cylinders to remove the water absorbed during the tanning
process.
2) Shaving: This process removes flesh residues and creates
uniformly thick leather. The leather passes through two rolling
cylinders where the upper one is provided with helical blades.
3) Splitting: A splitting machine slices the thick leather into one or
more horizontal layers. Sometimes, this process is also carried out
after liming. The top grain layer is the most expensive leather. It is
used to make high-end leather merchandise. The layer without grain
is used to make suede leather. Sometimes, an artificial grain surface
can also be applied to it.
4) Dyeing: With the exception of vegetable tanned leather, all types
of leather are dyed. More often than not, water-soluble dyes are used,
allowing the dye molecules to penetrate inside the fibers. Thus, it
differs significantly from surface coating where dye is applied only on
the top layer.
5) Fat Liquoring: Fat liquoring, or stuffing, consists of adding fats,
oils, or waxes between fibers to keep the leather soft and flexible.
Without this process, the leather will dry and become stiff.
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ESOME
LEATHER
STEPS D
Finishing
This is the final stage where finishing touches are
added to the tanned leather – as per the desired
end product. This includes color, texture,
thickness, and surface patterns.
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L E AT H E R S T E P S D - C O N T I N U E
kkkkk(fill with image or text)
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011) Polishing: A velvet wheel rubs the leather to create a shiny
surface.
2) Embossing: The process of embossing obtains a three-
dimensional print using heated hydraulic or roller presses.
3) Surface Coating: The surface coating process adds color and
different designs to leather. As per the customer requirement, resins,
pigments, and dyes are added in layers to the surface using a variety
of techniques such as spraying, roller-coating, curtain-coating, or
hand coating.
4) Final Grading: Finally, the leather is graded before it is dispatched
to the customers. Grading is often based on a variety of factors such
as the feel of the leather, color, pattern, thickness, softness, and
flexibility.
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WELCOME
Identify Genuine Leather
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Identify
Leather
The holiday are coming, birthdays, gift giving, weddings, ass-kissing-
boses, and many more events are going to be a part of your living life.
And part of that life will involve making sure to buy quality-
genueine leather and not be stuck with an inferior product that you
regret ever buying.
The reality is that the marketplace is flooded with different types
of leather and many different types of synthetic leather.
Unfortunately retailers and manufactures seem to think there's a
market to sell people goods with questionable longevity use. For
example, a reputable shoe retailer is happy to sell you shoes whose
material will be comprimised in a short period. Think bonded leather.
So the key purpose of this material was to help myself and
others not get fooled by fake / unreal leather.
WELCOME
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ESOLEATHER
FACTS
DID YOU KNOW WHITE LEATHER IS
THE MOST DIFFICULT TO PRODUCE?
White dye can only be used with the best
top quality hides. When it is used on poor
quality hides, the leather becomes very
hard and at risk of cracking making white
leather very difficult to produce.
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CHECK
1) Check the Label First
The first thing you should do before trying any of
the following tricks is to check the label. Most
leather products have labels indicating different
types, such as ‘genuine leather’ or ‘full grain
leather.’ If you see dubious labels such as
‘manmade material’ or ‘made with animal
products’, chances are, it’s not genuine leather.
Avoid buying leather furniture or accessories
without any tags. It’s a sure shot sign the
manufacturer is trying to conceal the authenticity
of leather.
2) Feel the Texture
Just run your fingers over the leather to feel its
texture. As genuine leather comes from animal
hide, it will have a varying or uneven texture. If
the surface grain feels extra smooth, chances are,
it is faux leather.
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CHECK
3) Look for Imperfections
Genuine leather exhibits an inconsistent surface
pattern having minor imperfections. In other
words, scratches, creases, and wrinkles are an
indication of genuine leather
4) Warmth
That’s why genuine leather begets a cozy and
warm feeling to your touch. Faux / Fake leather,
however, feels cold and lifeless.
5) Elasticity
Just like any animal skin, genuine leather
changes color when stretched and has better
elasticity. If you press your finger firmly against
natural leather, it will wrinkle under pressure. But,
it will regain the original quickly. Faux leather,
however, will retain the shape of your finger for a
while.
6) Smell
Real leather has a distinct leathery smell. It
retains the smell even after going through the
tanning process. The synthetic leather material,
on the other hand, smells like plastic.
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CHECK
7) Rough Edges
Whether you are out shopping for leather
recliners or handbags, they will always have
rough or coarse edges. As genuine leather is
made of several layers, the edges often fray over
time. Faux leather products, however, have
smooth edges.
8) Moisture
Unlike its synthetic counterparts, natural leather
readily absorbs moisture. Splash a drop of water
on your leather merchandise. If it soaks up the
water in seconds, chances are it’s a genuine
leather item.
9) Fire Test
You have to execute this test carefully, as it will
damage a part of your leather accessory. You
can do this test on a hard-to-see area, such as
the underside of your leather recliners. Burn the
designated area using a matchstick. Genuine
leather will slightly char and produce a distinct
smell of burnt hair, while faux leather smells of
burning plastic.
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CHECK
10) Check the Cost
Irrespective of how hard you bargain, genuine
leather will always be expensive. When it comes
to leather shopping, there are no cheap deals.
11) Understand Different Types of Leather
The more you know about leather, the better. So,
try to understand as much you can about the
different types. When in doubt, refer to this guide.
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WELCOME
Identify Fake Leather
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Spot Fake
Leather
I will bet you that not even the very sharp eye, nose, and feel can tell
the difference between fake leather and real leather all the time. We
as leather goods buyers do get fooled. How to Spot Fake Leather.
[There are several ways to spot a grain leather mimic, where split
or bonded leather is embossed to look like more durable grain
leather. If the leather in question has a very uniform or
monotonous pattern, it may be evidence of embossing. ]
Be careful about the term “genuine leather”. The genuine leather can
be used inaccurately. A shoe could be mix material of rubber and
leather but manaufacturers may fail to mention that and sell you on
GL.
At the end of the day, the key tip to remember is that the more money
you have to spend on any goods or services the more questions you
should ask. Do your home work even if you read this content.
WELCOME
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ESOLEATHER
FACTS
DID YOU KNOW COWHIDE IS THE
MOST POPULAR CHOICE FOR
LEATHER PRODUCTION?
Out of all the skins available, cowhide is
the most widely used of all. This is
thought to be due to the fact that it is very
easy to take care of as well being as the
thickest usually weighing in at between 1
and 12 ounces.
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WELCOME
Types of Leather
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Types of
Leather
If you thought reading the content prior to this page was all you
needed to be a “leather pro”, sorry you are just sracthig the sufface.
A cow or cattle has a pretty thick skin which is also refered to as
Cowhide.
A whole cowhide is really thick, and generally too thick to be
useful for everyday leather products. So it’s usually cut down to
be thinner and more useful for different uses.
[Cowhide is made of two main integrated layers – the corium and the
grain. Collagen fibers in the corium are thinner and more flexible, and
become tighter and thicker as they move up toward the grain, where
the fibers are tightly packed and very sturdy. The corium becomes
thicker with age, which is why calfskins are thinner, smoother and
softer than the hides of older animals.]
WELCOME
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ESOLEATHER
GRADES
The top part of the grain faces outward toward
the hair, and can contain blemishes like insect
bites, stretch marks, scars, and brands. This
means that the very top part of the grain is often
buffed off to make the leather look more uniform.
Types of Leather Grades
• Top grain
• Full grain
• Split leather
• Bonded leather
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TYPES
The quality of leather varies greatly. Not only do
you have to know more about types of quality you
also need to know where to get the high quality
for your money. .
The best quality leather will depend on these
important factors, most notably:
• Type of animal and breed
• Physical location and climate where the
animal lived
• The portion of the hide the leather was cut
from
• The layer of the hide that is used (top grain,
full grain, split)
• Quality and skill of the processing and
tanning
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TYPES
[Different layers within the hide also have an
enormous impact on quality. Full grain leather
and top-grain are the best. See our in depth focus
on the grain vs split just a few paragraphs further
down to know which portion you are buying.
Finally, knowing exactly how to take a raw hide
and process it through tanning and finishing is a
sought after skill and will influence the quality of
the final product significantly. Italian leather is
admired for this very reason – as Italian leather
artisans are considered amongst the most skilled
in the world.
In general, there are four types of leather.
These include Full Grain Leather, Top Grain
Leather, Corrected Grain Leather, and Bonded
Leather. Take a look at the picture below. See
how the fibers run both horizontally and
vertically in different parts of the hide. ]
LISANNA
01Did you know there are different breeds of
cows in the world? There are more than five and
all come in different size, appearances,
behaviours, hide thickness, etc.
Which means different breeds of cows will
produce different quality hides due to their
genetics and environment. Some cow or cattle
types might have more protective hair or thicker
skins due to the weather.
Different portions of the hide also yield different
quality leather.
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TYPES
FYI:Buying leather with more horizontal
fibers wears out quickly because they can readily
pulled apart. Vertically running fibers, however,
are the strongest. In other words, the higher the
number of vertical fibers, the better.
LISANNA
01[A. Full Grain Leather
Full grain leather comes from the top layer of the
hide. It includes all the grain with it – hence the
name full grain leather. This type of leather
retains the inherent toughness, as well as the
imperfections because there are no surface
alterations or splitting.It is the highest quality
leather and the only one suitable for saddleback.
B. Top Grain Leather
Top grain is the second highest grade of leather.
Usually, to obtain top grain leather, the top layer
of skin from blemished hides is split. The surface
is sanded to get rid of inherent imperfections.
Pigmentation or staining gives the leather an
attractive look.This also makes top grain leather
smoother and more flexible than the full grain.
Although this type of leather is strong and durable,
it tends to stretch permanently over time. It is
used to produce suede and nubuck. ]
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TYPES
C. Corrected Grain (Bottom Cut/Split) Leather
Corrected grain or split leather, also known as
genuine leather, is produced using the skin layers
that remain after the top is split off and from the
corium predominantly (see diagram above). Split
leather tends to be tougher in texture due to the
fact that is resides under the top layers and is
mostly used in applications that don’t require the
leather to be soft like furniture backs and sides.
D. Bonded Leather
Bonded leather is made up of leftovers of the hide.
This includes the dust and shavings. These are
bonded together using polyurethane or latex on
top of a fiber sheet. It is often spray-painted to
look like full or top grain leather. You can’t
determine the percentage of natural leather
unless the manufacturer chooses to disclose it –
which is very unlikely. Bonded leather is the
lowest (and the cheapest) grade of leather.
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MORE
FYI:If you reallywant to learn more about
leather types, the following list should be
something you should lookup. Some are just
based on the process, technique, the source, and
so on. However the key thing to know for the
average consumer is whether the leather (hide)
is:
• Type of animal and breed
• Physical location and climate where the
animal lived
• The portion of the hide the leather was cut
from
• The layer of the hide that is used (top grain,
full grain, split)
• Quality and skill of the processing and
tanning
ENJOY!
LISANNA
01
Aniline Leather, Semi-Aniline Leather, Antique
Grain Leather, Chrome-Free Leather, Chrome
Tanned Leather, Pigmented Leather, Crust
Leather, Embossed Leather, Finished Split
Leather, Kidskin Leather, Latigo Leather,
Nappa Leather, Nubuck Leather, Oil Tanned
Leather, Patent Leather, Pebble Grain Leather,
Pigmented Leather, Printed Leather, Pull-Up
Leather, Saffiano Leather, Semi-Aniline
Leather, Skirting Leather, Suede Leather,
Tooling Calf Leather, Waxy Hand Leather,
Image: Quality FULL GRAIN Leather GQBULL® Passport Cover
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WELCOME
Leather Thickness
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Thickness
&Use
[The leather thickness and weight play a critical role in deciding what
the end product will be. For example, thinner hides (1-3 ounce) are
used to make the leather jacket, furniture, moldings, linens, and
embossing. Thick leather, on the other hand, is often used to make
items such as leather belt, knife sheaths, holsters, saddlebags, and
leather dog collar.
The ounce is the standard unit of measuring the leather thickness.
However, some leather thickness charts may also use millimeter and
inch as the measuring unit. Typically, an ounce of leather equals 1/64
of an inch. However, the leather thickness varies slightly as the hide
doesn’t have a uniform thickness. Split leather may have a more
consistent thickness than a rawhide. But, you will still find some
variation. ]
WELCOME
Image: Quality Leather GQBULL® Watches & Watch Bands
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Aniline: A colorless oily liquid made from coal tar used in
making dyes and resins in organic synthesis.
Aniline dye: The type of dye used to give the initial color to a
skin.
Aniline leather: Aniline dying is the process of putting skins
into a drum and allowingthe dye to soak completely through.
Semi-Aniline: Aniline leather to which a matching pigment is
added to even out the color and add protection.
Back: A side with the belly cut off, usually 15 – 18 sq. ft.
Bark tanned: Leather which has been vegetable tanned
mainly by means of tannins contained in the bark of trees.
Belly: The lower part of a side, usually 4 – 8 sq. ft.
Bovine: An animal belonging to the cattle or ox family.
Buffed leather: Leather from which the grain is removed by
an abrasive or bladed cylinder. This process is used in altered
or corrected grain leather.
Chrome tannage: Leather tanned with chromium salts
resulting in soft, mellow hides receptive to excellent color
variety.
Combination tannage: Leather which receives chrome and
vegetable tannage producing suppleness and body in the hide.
Corrected grain: Commonly referred to as top grain. Lacking
an intact full grain surface. Usually heavily pigmented.
Cowhide: Term specifically applied to leather made from
hides of cows, although the term is sometimes loosely used to
designate any leather tanned from hides of animals of the
bovine species.
LISANNA
01TERMS
Drum dyeing: The application of dyestuffs to leather by the
immersion of the leather in a drum that is tumbled. This
process allows full dye penetration into the fiber.
Embossed leather: Usually corrected grain, in which a
pattern is applied by extreme pressure in a press to give a
unique design or imitation of full grain characteristics.
Sometimes leathers are embossed to make them appear to
be another leather, such as embossing an alligator pattern
into cowhide.
Fat wrinkle: Wrinkles in the grain of leather caused by fat
deposits in the animal, that create beauty in the leather. Fat
wrinkles are not visible in imitation grain leather.
Finish: Generally defines a surface application on the leather
to color, protect or mask imperfections. More specifically, it
refers to all processes administered to leather after it has
been tanned.
Full grain: Leather in which the grain layer or dermis has not
been altered. The grain layer gives each type of leather its
distinctive appearance.
Grain (leather): The outside of the hide or skin consisting of
the pores, cells, wrinkles and other characteristics which
constitute the natural texture of the leather.
Grain, embossed: An artificial grain pressed into the surface
of top grain leather from which the original grain has been
removed.
Hand: A leather industry term used to describe the feel, i.e.
suppleness or fullness of leather. Soft, medium, and firm.
Hide: The pelt of a large animal.
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Hump Hole: A narrow slit occasionally found along the spine
area. The holes are due to certain breeds of steer having a
“hump” on the spine that must be cut/slit so that the hide will
lay flat during the tanning process. Commin to certain breeds
of cow the split typically does not effect yields.
Kip: The hide from a grass-fed, immature bovine.
Leather: An animal hide which has been preserved and
dressed for use. Typical hides include
 Cowhide
 Elkskin
 Water Buffalo
 Deerskin
 Goatskin
 Pigskin
 Lambskin
 Sheepskin
 Matte finish: A flat or dull finish.
Milling: The leather is tumbled or “milled” in a large drum to
produce a softer more pliable product. Many times this
operation can create a slight “pebble” appearance in the
surface of the leather.
Naked leather: A dyed leather which has received no topical
application that may mask or alter the natural state of the
leather.
Nubuck: A leather whose surface has been buffed and
brushed to create a soft, velvety effect. Differs from suede in
that while suede is created from the flesh (inner) side of a hide,
nubuc is created using the grain (outer) side, giving it added
strength and durability.
LISANNA
01TERMS
Patent leather: Leather with a glossy impermeable finish
produced by successive coats of drying oils, varnish, or
synthetic resins.
Patina: A natural characteristic that develops on full grain
leather through normal use over a period of time.
Perforated: In leather, this is the process of die-cutting small
holes to form a pattern. The holes can vary in size, density
and pattern.
Rawhide: Untanned or partially tanned cattlehides.
Retannage: A modifying secondary tannage applied after
intermediate operations following the primary tannage to
further enrich and enhance the quality of the leather.
Shrunken grain leather: A full, natural grain leather which is
shrunken to enlarge and enhance the grain character of the
leather.
Side: Half a hide cut along the back bone.
Skive: The shave, slice or divide to peel into a thin layer, or
to reduce leather to a specific thickness.
Split leather: Leather made from the bottom split, or reticular
layer of the hide, which has an imitation grain embossed into a
heavily finished pigmented surface to simulate papillary
leather.
Suede: A fibrous leather, typically made from the reticular part
of the hide.
Sueding: The process of raising fibers on the grain side of a
hide or skin to give a velvet nap effect. This is generally called
“nubuck” or “grain sueded.”
LOOK
44
Tannage:
 Chrome tannage: Leather tanned with chromium salts
resulting in soft, mellow hides receptive to excellent color
variety.
 Vegetable tannage: The conversion of raw hide into leather
by use of vegetable tannins. This process produces leather
with greater body and firmness than the more general method
of chromium tanning.
Tannin: Any various solvent, astringent substances of plant
origin used in tanning leather.
Temper: Defines the pliability or softness of the leather.
 FIRM: Leather that has hard and rigid characteristics. Firm
leather represents products requiring very little flexibility. Belt,
straps, ect.
 REGULAR: Leather is slightly firm and having no rigid
qualities. When worked, regular leathers display smooth, even
folds. Shoes, boots, ect.
 MELLOW: This type of leather is very limber and pliant. No
snap when worked, tends to lack firmness. Hand bags,
sneakers, ect.
 SOFT: Leather that is extremely flexible and pliant.
Garments, upholstery, ect.
LISANNA
01TERMS
Top grain: An over-used term commonly used to refer to
corrected grain leather. See Corrected Grain.
Trim: The removal of the outer edges of the hide not suitable
for making leather.
Tumbled: The leather is tumbled or “milled” in a large drum to
produce a softer more pliable product. Many times this
operation can create a slight “pebble” appearance in the
surface of the leather.
Upholstery leather: A general term for leather processed for
many uses, including furniture, automobiles, aircraft,
architectural applications, etc.
Vegetable tanning: The conversion of raw hide into leather
by use of vegetable tannins. This process produces leather
with greater body and firmness than the more general method
of chromium tanning.
Weight: The thickness of leather is measured by it’s weight in
ounces per square foot. Weight’s are approximate and may
fluctuate up to 1oz depending on the type of hide.
LOOK
45
WELCOME
GIVE A SPECIAL
CONFIDENT MAN
IN YOUR LIFE UNIQUE-
QUALITY-LEATHER-
ACCESORIES!
https://www.nordstrom.com
https://www.amazon.com
https://www.zara.com
https://www.nordstrom.com
https://www.facebook.com/gqbull
GIVE
LEATHER
LOOK
46
WELCOME
Style Your Founder(s) Ass - Request Part Two
POWERED BY : MANNY
TWITTER: @THEBESTMANNYO
WEB: HTTPS://MBLOG.BJMANNYST.COM
EMAIL: INFO[AT]FOUNDERSUNDER40.COM
SPONSORED BY: BJ MANNYST
+ FOUNDERS UNDER 40™ GROUP
(#1 UNCOVENTIONAL FOUNDERS COMMUNITY)

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How to buy leather goods & travel in style for founders / CEO/ Entrepreneurs - Part 1

  • 1. LOOK 1 How To Buy Leather Goods & Travel In Style, For Founders - Part One POWERED BY : MANNY TWITTER: @THEBESTMANNYO WEB: HTTPS://MBLOG.BJMANNYST.COM EMAIL: INFO[AT]FOUNDERSUNDER40.COM SPONSORED BY: BJ MANNYST + FOUNDERS UNDER 40™ GROUP (#1 UNCOVENTIONAL FOUNDERS COMMUNITY)
  • 2. LOOK 2 WELCOME THANK YOU TO OUR SOURCES OF INSPIRIATION & OUR CONTENT SPONSORS. PLEASE VISIT THEIR WEBSITES BY CLICKING IMAGES / FOLLOW THE LINKS. FYI: THIS VERSION FOCUSES ON MEN. https://www.nordstrom.com https://www.amazon.com https://www.zara.com https://www.nordstrom.com https://www.facebook.com/gqbull
  • 3. LOOK 3 WELCOME FIRST, On Behalf of myself, Emmanuel “Manny” Omikunle + BJ MANNYST (Marketing Service Provider) + Founders Under 40™ Group (10000+ founders ) + family + friends + the whole entrepreneur community, We want to wish you,...HAPPY THANKSGIVING + HAPPY BLACKFRIDAY + HAPPY HOLIDAYS + MERRY CHRISTMAS + HAPPY NEW YEAR + HAPPY BUYING AND LOOKING SMART!! THANK YOU!
  • 4. LOOK 4 WELCOME GIVE A SPECIAL CONFIDENT MAN IN YOUR LIFE UNIQUE- QUALITY-LEATHER- ACCESORIES! https://www.nordstrom.com https://www.amazon.com https://www.zara.com https://www.nordstrom.com https://www.facebook.com/gqbull GIVE LEATHER
  • 5. LOOK 5 What is Leather? Leather is a durable and flexible material created by tanning animal rawhide and skins. The most common raw material source is cattle hide. It can be produced at manufacturing scales ranging from artisan to modern industrial scale. WELCOME
  • 7. LOOK 7 It Starts With Source The leather shoes, pants, jackets, bags, belt, and wallets all began life from a source. After all, it's not like it suddenly rains leather material. The reality today is that most quality leather goods are made from cattle hides, which make up about 75% of all leather produced. The rest of the leather goods are usually made from other animals like sheep, goats, and pigs, And a tiny percentage are from other animals like Horses, Snakes, Crocodile, Alligator, Kangaroo, Stingray, Deerskin Sharks,..etc And each source has its best use case. Some leather material from a alligator might be preferred because of the scales or sometimes it's just a way to brag and impress others. WELCOME
  • 8. LOOK 8 ESOME LEATHER FACTS DID YOU KNOW TOP GRAIN LEATHER IS NOT THE HIGHEST QUALITY OF LEATHER? Due to it’s name, people often confuse top grain leather with being the most genuine and highest quality leather you can buy when in fact, full grain is considered the highest quality leather available on the market. LISANNA 01
  • 9. LOOK 9 WELCOME What Kind of Bull Are You Made of? GQBULL LIFE, WORK, BUSINESS & RELATIONSHIPS ARE ALL A GRIND. You either show your bullish side or die trying. Show it with GQBULL (Gutsy Quincy Bull). Unique - Luxury Men Accessories. VISIT GQBULL
  • 11. LOOK 11 Animal to Production Since you've found the source of animal, most likely cattle, you or a manufacturer are going to have to make leather. Well. . .I will assume most readers rather buy finished leather goods than make it. It is a process not consided all roses. Like everything that becomes consumer goods, it has to go through a series of processes. It is complex and time consuming. A series of treatments that require considerable time and energy. Tanning is the key. The purpose of the tanning process is to alter the protein structure of the skin to increase its durability, texture, and appearance. The Steps Involve: preparatory steps, the animal skin needs to be skinned and cured with salt to remove water , transfered to tanning, re-tanning, and finishing. Sometimes, a further sub-process of surface coating may be added to the process. Although curing is not considered a part of the tanning process, it is the first crucial step in obtaining leather. WELCOME
  • 12. LOOK 12 ESOME LEATHER FACTS DID YOU KNOW YOU CAN GET SALMON LEATHER? This is one you’ve probably never heard before but you can actually buy leather which comes from the skin of a salmon. DID YOU ALSO KNOW THAT THERE ARE MANY TYPES OF CATTLE BREEDS? LISANNA 01
  • 13. LOOK 13 ESOME LEATHER STEPS A Preparatory Steps The cured skin or animal hide needs to be prepared for the tanning process. Although there are various preparatory processes, the purpose of each process is to remove unwanted raw skin components. The tannery may not perform all of them, depending on the quality and type of the desired product. LISANNA 01
  • 14. LOOK 14 L E AT H E R S T E P S A - C O N T I N U E NOTE: READ DOWNWARDS FOR STEPS 6 - 10 • Liming: This process loosens the fibers and allows the skin to absorb various tanning chemicals. Usually, sodium sulfide and hydrated lime are used to treat the hide, as they remove keratinous material such as hair and wool. Fats get hydrolyzed as the pH increases. Water is absorbed into the skin fibers, resulting in a swollen skin structure. • De-Liming: In this process, the hide is washed with a mixture of water and ammonium chloride or ammonium sulfate. This removes water (along with any impurities) to reduce swelling. • Bating: Bating marks the end of the liming process. The flaccid skin is treated with proteolytic bating enzymes to remove non- fibrous proteins. It cleans the grain and makes the pelt smooth and silky. • De-Greasing: Sometimes, water-based solutions and solvents are used to remove excess grease or natural fatty acids from the skin. • Bleaching: Chemical agents are used to making the hide colorless to add the desired color at a later stage. LISANNA 01NOTE: READ DOWNWARDS FOR STEPS 1 - 5 • Soaking: At this stage, the cured hide is soaked in water for several hours to several days. This process not only restores the moisture lost during salting, but helps to remove dirt, debris, blood, and excess animal fats. • Fleshing: This process removes subcutaneous material from the flesh side. The pelt is passed through a machine to remove the fat, muscle, and flesh mechanically. Usually, this process takes place after slaughter, soaking, or liming. At this stage, or after tanning, hides may be split into different layers. • Un-hairing: Hair is removed at this stage using mechanical instruments such as rollers and blades. • Pickling: This process involves cleaning and soaking the rawhide in acids or salts to prevent decomposition. It helps the penetration of tanning agents such as chromium and aldehydes. Stronger pickling agents are used to preserve hides for several months. • De-Pickling: The hide is soaked in sulfuric acid to lower the pH after pickling.
  • 15. LOOK 15 ESOME LEATHER STEPS B Tanning The primary purpose of this process is to produce a non-decomposable and sturdy material from the raw animal hide, called leather. Essentially, tanning converts the protein of the rawhide into a durable material. The most common tanning processes include mineral tanning, vegetable tanning, and glutaraldehyde tanning. LISANNA 01
  • 16. LOOK 16 L E AT H E R S T E P S B - C O N T I N U E 2) Mineral or Chrome Tanning: Mineral or chrome tanning is the most popular tanning process because it’s much quicker, affordable, and less labor intensive than the others. In 1858, it was introduced as an alternative to the expensive and time-consuming vegetable tanning process. The process can be automated and lasts a day at most. Usually, the time for chromium tanning is around 2 or 3 hours for small and thin skins. However, it can go up to 24 hours for thicker ones obtained from cattle.The size of chrome molecules is small compared to vegetable tannin ions. As a result, chrome ions can penetrate the collagen and remove water molecules effectively. That’s why chrome tanned leather is thinner and softer than vegetable tanned leather. Chromium (III) sulfate is the most efficient and effective tanning agent. Chrome tanned leather is also called wet blue leather due to its bluish color.However, the chrome tanning process creates a negative environmental impact as it comprises heavy usage of acids and other chemicals. The toxic waste can seep into groundwater and contaminate drinking water supplies. The resulting environmental implications are a major concern, especially in developing countries. LISANNA 011) Vegetable Tanning: Vegetable tanning has been around for thousands of years. Unlike mineral tanning, it uses a naturally occurring polyphenol astringent chemical called tannin. This is usually found in bark, leaves, and branches of trees such as oak, chestnut, or mimosa. As it produces shades of deep brown, beige, yellow, and red, tannin lends a unique color and texture to the leather. However, the process is time-consuming, laborious, and expensive. There are two types of vegetable tanning processes. The slow process takes about 30 days, while the rapid tanning process only lasts about 36 to 48 hours. Sometimes, however, the slow process can take several months, as it may require multiple treatments. This process produces highly durable leather. So, the vegetable tanned leather is often used to make products such as saddles or holsters. The unmatched durability and distinct appearance makes this leather suitable for imprinting and intricate leatherwork such as tooling.
  • 17. LOOK 17 L E AT H E R S T E P S B - C O N T I N U E Image: Tanning in Solution ) LISANNA 013) Aldehyde Tanning: This tanning process uses glutaraldehyde or oxazolidine compounds. It is also called wet white leather due to its pale cream color. Aldehyde tanned leather is water absorbent, soft, and can be machine washed. It is, therefore, perfect for use in chamois. 4) Oil Tanning: Sometimes, emulsified oils are blended with aldehyde chemicals to produce exceptionally soft and flexible leather. This process is called oil tanning.
  • 18. LOOK 18 ESOME LEATHER STEPS C Re-Tanning Re-tanning converts the tanned leather into a marketable product. The choice of chemicals used in this process depends on the desired color and texture in the final product. LISANNA 01
  • 19. LOOK 19 L E AT H E R S T E P S C - C O N T I N U E Image: Dyeing Drum LISANNA 011) Drying: At this stage, the tanned leather is pressed between two rolling cylinders to remove the water absorbed during the tanning process. 2) Shaving: This process removes flesh residues and creates uniformly thick leather. The leather passes through two rolling cylinders where the upper one is provided with helical blades. 3) Splitting: A splitting machine slices the thick leather into one or more horizontal layers. Sometimes, this process is also carried out after liming. The top grain layer is the most expensive leather. It is used to make high-end leather merchandise. The layer without grain is used to make suede leather. Sometimes, an artificial grain surface can also be applied to it. 4) Dyeing: With the exception of vegetable tanned leather, all types of leather are dyed. More often than not, water-soluble dyes are used, allowing the dye molecules to penetrate inside the fibers. Thus, it differs significantly from surface coating where dye is applied only on the top layer. 5) Fat Liquoring: Fat liquoring, or stuffing, consists of adding fats, oils, or waxes between fibers to keep the leather soft and flexible. Without this process, the leather will dry and become stiff.
  • 20. LOOK 20 ESOME LEATHER STEPS D Finishing This is the final stage where finishing touches are added to the tanned leather – as per the desired end product. This includes color, texture, thickness, and surface patterns. LISANNA 01
  • 21. LOOK 21 L E AT H E R S T E P S D - C O N T I N U E kkkkk(fill with image or text) LISANNA 011) Polishing: A velvet wheel rubs the leather to create a shiny surface. 2) Embossing: The process of embossing obtains a three- dimensional print using heated hydraulic or roller presses. 3) Surface Coating: The surface coating process adds color and different designs to leather. As per the customer requirement, resins, pigments, and dyes are added in layers to the surface using a variety of techniques such as spraying, roller-coating, curtain-coating, or hand coating. 4) Final Grading: Finally, the leather is graded before it is dispatched to the customers. Grading is often based on a variety of factors such as the feel of the leather, color, pattern, thickness, softness, and flexibility.
  • 23. LOOK 23 Identify Leather The holiday are coming, birthdays, gift giving, weddings, ass-kissing- boses, and many more events are going to be a part of your living life. And part of that life will involve making sure to buy quality- genueine leather and not be stuck with an inferior product that you regret ever buying. The reality is that the marketplace is flooded with different types of leather and many different types of synthetic leather. Unfortunately retailers and manufactures seem to think there's a market to sell people goods with questionable longevity use. For example, a reputable shoe retailer is happy to sell you shoes whose material will be comprimised in a short period. Think bonded leather. So the key purpose of this material was to help myself and others not get fooled by fake / unreal leather. WELCOME
  • 24. LOOK 24 ESOLEATHER FACTS DID YOU KNOW WHITE LEATHER IS THE MOST DIFFICULT TO PRODUCE? White dye can only be used with the best top quality hides. When it is used on poor quality hides, the leather becomes very hard and at risk of cracking making white leather very difficult to produce. LISANNA 01
  • 25. LOOK 25 CHECK 1) Check the Label First The first thing you should do before trying any of the following tricks is to check the label. Most leather products have labels indicating different types, such as ‘genuine leather’ or ‘full grain leather.’ If you see dubious labels such as ‘manmade material’ or ‘made with animal products’, chances are, it’s not genuine leather. Avoid buying leather furniture or accessories without any tags. It’s a sure shot sign the manufacturer is trying to conceal the authenticity of leather. 2) Feel the Texture Just run your fingers over the leather to feel its texture. As genuine leather comes from animal hide, it will have a varying or uneven texture. If the surface grain feels extra smooth, chances are, it is faux leather. LISANNA
  • 26. LOOK 26 CHECK 3) Look for Imperfections Genuine leather exhibits an inconsistent surface pattern having minor imperfections. In other words, scratches, creases, and wrinkles are an indication of genuine leather 4) Warmth That’s why genuine leather begets a cozy and warm feeling to your touch. Faux / Fake leather, however, feels cold and lifeless. 5) Elasticity Just like any animal skin, genuine leather changes color when stretched and has better elasticity. If you press your finger firmly against natural leather, it will wrinkle under pressure. But, it will regain the original quickly. Faux leather, however, will retain the shape of your finger for a while. 6) Smell Real leather has a distinct leathery smell. It retains the smell even after going through the tanning process. The synthetic leather material, on the other hand, smells like plastic. LISANNA
  • 27. LOOK 27 CHECK 7) Rough Edges Whether you are out shopping for leather recliners or handbags, they will always have rough or coarse edges. As genuine leather is made of several layers, the edges often fray over time. Faux leather products, however, have smooth edges. 8) Moisture Unlike its synthetic counterparts, natural leather readily absorbs moisture. Splash a drop of water on your leather merchandise. If it soaks up the water in seconds, chances are it’s a genuine leather item. 9) Fire Test You have to execute this test carefully, as it will damage a part of your leather accessory. You can do this test on a hard-to-see area, such as the underside of your leather recliners. Burn the designated area using a matchstick. Genuine leather will slightly char and produce a distinct smell of burnt hair, while faux leather smells of burning plastic. LISANNA
  • 28. LOOK 28 CHECK 10) Check the Cost Irrespective of how hard you bargain, genuine leather will always be expensive. When it comes to leather shopping, there are no cheap deals. 11) Understand Different Types of Leather The more you know about leather, the better. So, try to understand as much you can about the different types. When in doubt, refer to this guide. LISANNA 01
  • 30. LOOK 30 Spot Fake Leather I will bet you that not even the very sharp eye, nose, and feel can tell the difference between fake leather and real leather all the time. We as leather goods buyers do get fooled. How to Spot Fake Leather. [There are several ways to spot a grain leather mimic, where split or bonded leather is embossed to look like more durable grain leather. If the leather in question has a very uniform or monotonous pattern, it may be evidence of embossing. ] Be careful about the term “genuine leather”. The genuine leather can be used inaccurately. A shoe could be mix material of rubber and leather but manaufacturers may fail to mention that and sell you on GL. At the end of the day, the key tip to remember is that the more money you have to spend on any goods or services the more questions you should ask. Do your home work even if you read this content. WELCOME
  • 31. LOOK 31 ESOLEATHER FACTS DID YOU KNOW COWHIDE IS THE MOST POPULAR CHOICE FOR LEATHER PRODUCTION? Out of all the skins available, cowhide is the most widely used of all. This is thought to be due to the fact that it is very easy to take care of as well being as the thickest usually weighing in at between 1 and 12 ounces. LISANNA 01
  • 33. LOOK 33 Types of Leather If you thought reading the content prior to this page was all you needed to be a “leather pro”, sorry you are just sracthig the sufface. A cow or cattle has a pretty thick skin which is also refered to as Cowhide. A whole cowhide is really thick, and generally too thick to be useful for everyday leather products. So it’s usually cut down to be thinner and more useful for different uses. [Cowhide is made of two main integrated layers – the corium and the grain. Collagen fibers in the corium are thinner and more flexible, and become tighter and thicker as they move up toward the grain, where the fibers are tightly packed and very sturdy. The corium becomes thicker with age, which is why calfskins are thinner, smoother and softer than the hides of older animals.] WELCOME
  • 34. LOOK 34 ESOLEATHER GRADES The top part of the grain faces outward toward the hair, and can contain blemishes like insect bites, stretch marks, scars, and brands. This means that the very top part of the grain is often buffed off to make the leather look more uniform. Types of Leather Grades • Top grain • Full grain • Split leather • Bonded leather LISANNA 01
  • 35. LOOK 35 TYPES The quality of leather varies greatly. Not only do you have to know more about types of quality you also need to know where to get the high quality for your money. . The best quality leather will depend on these important factors, most notably: • Type of animal and breed • Physical location and climate where the animal lived • The portion of the hide the leather was cut from • The layer of the hide that is used (top grain, full grain, split) • Quality and skill of the processing and tanning LISANNA 01
  • 36. LOOK 36 TYPES [Different layers within the hide also have an enormous impact on quality. Full grain leather and top-grain are the best. See our in depth focus on the grain vs split just a few paragraphs further down to know which portion you are buying. Finally, knowing exactly how to take a raw hide and process it through tanning and finishing is a sought after skill and will influence the quality of the final product significantly. Italian leather is admired for this very reason – as Italian leather artisans are considered amongst the most skilled in the world. In general, there are four types of leather. These include Full Grain Leather, Top Grain Leather, Corrected Grain Leather, and Bonded Leather. Take a look at the picture below. See how the fibers run both horizontally and vertically in different parts of the hide. ] LISANNA 01Did you know there are different breeds of cows in the world? There are more than five and all come in different size, appearances, behaviours, hide thickness, etc. Which means different breeds of cows will produce different quality hides due to their genetics and environment. Some cow or cattle types might have more protective hair or thicker skins due to the weather. Different portions of the hide also yield different quality leather.
  • 37. LOOK 37 TYPES FYI:Buying leather with more horizontal fibers wears out quickly because they can readily pulled apart. Vertically running fibers, however, are the strongest. In other words, the higher the number of vertical fibers, the better. LISANNA 01[A. Full Grain Leather Full grain leather comes from the top layer of the hide. It includes all the grain with it – hence the name full grain leather. This type of leather retains the inherent toughness, as well as the imperfections because there are no surface alterations or splitting.It is the highest quality leather and the only one suitable for saddleback. B. Top Grain Leather Top grain is the second highest grade of leather. Usually, to obtain top grain leather, the top layer of skin from blemished hides is split. The surface is sanded to get rid of inherent imperfections. Pigmentation or staining gives the leather an attractive look.This also makes top grain leather smoother and more flexible than the full grain. Although this type of leather is strong and durable, it tends to stretch permanently over time. It is used to produce suede and nubuck. ]
  • 38. LOOK 38 TYPES C. Corrected Grain (Bottom Cut/Split) Leather Corrected grain or split leather, also known as genuine leather, is produced using the skin layers that remain after the top is split off and from the corium predominantly (see diagram above). Split leather tends to be tougher in texture due to the fact that is resides under the top layers and is mostly used in applications that don’t require the leather to be soft like furniture backs and sides. D. Bonded Leather Bonded leather is made up of leftovers of the hide. This includes the dust and shavings. These are bonded together using polyurethane or latex on top of a fiber sheet. It is often spray-painted to look like full or top grain leather. You can’t determine the percentage of natural leather unless the manufacturer chooses to disclose it – which is very unlikely. Bonded leather is the lowest (and the cheapest) grade of leather. LISANNA 01
  • 39. LOOK 39 MORE FYI:If you reallywant to learn more about leather types, the following list should be something you should lookup. Some are just based on the process, technique, the source, and so on. However the key thing to know for the average consumer is whether the leather (hide) is: • Type of animal and breed • Physical location and climate where the animal lived • The portion of the hide the leather was cut from • The layer of the hide that is used (top grain, full grain, split) • Quality and skill of the processing and tanning ENJOY! LISANNA 01 Aniline Leather, Semi-Aniline Leather, Antique Grain Leather, Chrome-Free Leather, Chrome Tanned Leather, Pigmented Leather, Crust Leather, Embossed Leather, Finished Split Leather, Kidskin Leather, Latigo Leather, Nappa Leather, Nubuck Leather, Oil Tanned Leather, Patent Leather, Pebble Grain Leather, Pigmented Leather, Printed Leather, Pull-Up Leather, Saffiano Leather, Semi-Aniline Leather, Skirting Leather, Suede Leather, Tooling Calf Leather, Waxy Hand Leather, Image: Quality FULL GRAIN Leather GQBULL® Passport Cover
  • 41. LOOK 41 Thickness &Use [The leather thickness and weight play a critical role in deciding what the end product will be. For example, thinner hides (1-3 ounce) are used to make the leather jacket, furniture, moldings, linens, and embossing. Thick leather, on the other hand, is often used to make items such as leather belt, knife sheaths, holsters, saddlebags, and leather dog collar. The ounce is the standard unit of measuring the leather thickness. However, some leather thickness charts may also use millimeter and inch as the measuring unit. Typically, an ounce of leather equals 1/64 of an inch. However, the leather thickness varies slightly as the hide doesn’t have a uniform thickness. Split leather may have a more consistent thickness than a rawhide. But, you will still find some variation. ] WELCOME Image: Quality Leather GQBULL® Watches & Watch Bands
  • 42. LOOK 42 Aniline: A colorless oily liquid made from coal tar used in making dyes and resins in organic synthesis. Aniline dye: The type of dye used to give the initial color to a skin. Aniline leather: Aniline dying is the process of putting skins into a drum and allowingthe dye to soak completely through. Semi-Aniline: Aniline leather to which a matching pigment is added to even out the color and add protection. Back: A side with the belly cut off, usually 15 – 18 sq. ft. Bark tanned: Leather which has been vegetable tanned mainly by means of tannins contained in the bark of trees. Belly: The lower part of a side, usually 4 – 8 sq. ft. Bovine: An animal belonging to the cattle or ox family. Buffed leather: Leather from which the grain is removed by an abrasive or bladed cylinder. This process is used in altered or corrected grain leather. Chrome tannage: Leather tanned with chromium salts resulting in soft, mellow hides receptive to excellent color variety. Combination tannage: Leather which receives chrome and vegetable tannage producing suppleness and body in the hide. Corrected grain: Commonly referred to as top grain. Lacking an intact full grain surface. Usually heavily pigmented. Cowhide: Term specifically applied to leather made from hides of cows, although the term is sometimes loosely used to designate any leather tanned from hides of animals of the bovine species. LISANNA 01TERMS Drum dyeing: The application of dyestuffs to leather by the immersion of the leather in a drum that is tumbled. This process allows full dye penetration into the fiber. Embossed leather: Usually corrected grain, in which a pattern is applied by extreme pressure in a press to give a unique design or imitation of full grain characteristics. Sometimes leathers are embossed to make them appear to be another leather, such as embossing an alligator pattern into cowhide. Fat wrinkle: Wrinkles in the grain of leather caused by fat deposits in the animal, that create beauty in the leather. Fat wrinkles are not visible in imitation grain leather. Finish: Generally defines a surface application on the leather to color, protect or mask imperfections. More specifically, it refers to all processes administered to leather after it has been tanned. Full grain: Leather in which the grain layer or dermis has not been altered. The grain layer gives each type of leather its distinctive appearance. Grain (leather): The outside of the hide or skin consisting of the pores, cells, wrinkles and other characteristics which constitute the natural texture of the leather. Grain, embossed: An artificial grain pressed into the surface of top grain leather from which the original grain has been removed. Hand: A leather industry term used to describe the feel, i.e. suppleness or fullness of leather. Soft, medium, and firm. Hide: The pelt of a large animal.
  • 43. LOOK 43 Hump Hole: A narrow slit occasionally found along the spine area. The holes are due to certain breeds of steer having a “hump” on the spine that must be cut/slit so that the hide will lay flat during the tanning process. Commin to certain breeds of cow the split typically does not effect yields. Kip: The hide from a grass-fed, immature bovine. Leather: An animal hide which has been preserved and dressed for use. Typical hides include  Cowhide  Elkskin  Water Buffalo  Deerskin  Goatskin  Pigskin  Lambskin  Sheepskin  Matte finish: A flat or dull finish. Milling: The leather is tumbled or “milled” in a large drum to produce a softer more pliable product. Many times this operation can create a slight “pebble” appearance in the surface of the leather. Naked leather: A dyed leather which has received no topical application that may mask or alter the natural state of the leather. Nubuck: A leather whose surface has been buffed and brushed to create a soft, velvety effect. Differs from suede in that while suede is created from the flesh (inner) side of a hide, nubuc is created using the grain (outer) side, giving it added strength and durability. LISANNA 01TERMS Patent leather: Leather with a glossy impermeable finish produced by successive coats of drying oils, varnish, or synthetic resins. Patina: A natural characteristic that develops on full grain leather through normal use over a period of time. Perforated: In leather, this is the process of die-cutting small holes to form a pattern. The holes can vary in size, density and pattern. Rawhide: Untanned or partially tanned cattlehides. Retannage: A modifying secondary tannage applied after intermediate operations following the primary tannage to further enrich and enhance the quality of the leather. Shrunken grain leather: A full, natural grain leather which is shrunken to enlarge and enhance the grain character of the leather. Side: Half a hide cut along the back bone. Skive: The shave, slice or divide to peel into a thin layer, or to reduce leather to a specific thickness. Split leather: Leather made from the bottom split, or reticular layer of the hide, which has an imitation grain embossed into a heavily finished pigmented surface to simulate papillary leather. Suede: A fibrous leather, typically made from the reticular part of the hide. Sueding: The process of raising fibers on the grain side of a hide or skin to give a velvet nap effect. This is generally called “nubuck” or “grain sueded.”
  • 44. LOOK 44 Tannage:  Chrome tannage: Leather tanned with chromium salts resulting in soft, mellow hides receptive to excellent color variety.  Vegetable tannage: The conversion of raw hide into leather by use of vegetable tannins. This process produces leather with greater body and firmness than the more general method of chromium tanning. Tannin: Any various solvent, astringent substances of plant origin used in tanning leather. Temper: Defines the pliability or softness of the leather.  FIRM: Leather that has hard and rigid characteristics. Firm leather represents products requiring very little flexibility. Belt, straps, ect.  REGULAR: Leather is slightly firm and having no rigid qualities. When worked, regular leathers display smooth, even folds. Shoes, boots, ect.  MELLOW: This type of leather is very limber and pliant. No snap when worked, tends to lack firmness. Hand bags, sneakers, ect.  SOFT: Leather that is extremely flexible and pliant. Garments, upholstery, ect. LISANNA 01TERMS Top grain: An over-used term commonly used to refer to corrected grain leather. See Corrected Grain. Trim: The removal of the outer edges of the hide not suitable for making leather. Tumbled: The leather is tumbled or “milled” in a large drum to produce a softer more pliable product. Many times this operation can create a slight “pebble” appearance in the surface of the leather. Upholstery leather: A general term for leather processed for many uses, including furniture, automobiles, aircraft, architectural applications, etc. Vegetable tanning: The conversion of raw hide into leather by use of vegetable tannins. This process produces leather with greater body and firmness than the more general method of chromium tanning. Weight: The thickness of leather is measured by it’s weight in ounces per square foot. Weight’s are approximate and may fluctuate up to 1oz depending on the type of hide.
  • 45. LOOK 45 WELCOME GIVE A SPECIAL CONFIDENT MAN IN YOUR LIFE UNIQUE- QUALITY-LEATHER- ACCESORIES! https://www.nordstrom.com https://www.amazon.com https://www.zara.com https://www.nordstrom.com https://www.facebook.com/gqbull GIVE LEATHER
  • 46. LOOK 46 WELCOME Style Your Founder(s) Ass - Request Part Two POWERED BY : MANNY TWITTER: @THEBESTMANNYO WEB: HTTPS://MBLOG.BJMANNYST.COM EMAIL: INFO[AT]FOUNDERSUNDER40.COM SPONSORED BY: BJ MANNYST + FOUNDERS UNDER 40™ GROUP (#1 UNCOVENTIONAL FOUNDERS COMMUNITY)