I'm sure many of you have bought leather goods or what you thought was leather and just regretted it. If you don't buy quality goods the first time and that also last. . .you most likely end up throwing out many poor quality: watch bands, shoes, bags, couches, jackets, purses, car sits, etc. Identify Leather. The holidays are coming, birthdays, gift giving, weddings, a_ _-kissing, and many more events are going to be a part of your living life. And part of that life will involve making sure to buy quality-genuine leather and not be stuck with an inferior product that you regret ever buying. Pick up full eBook on sale today https://mblog.bjmannyst.com/2019/11/how-to-buy-leather-goods-travel-in.html
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How to buy leather goods & travel in style for founders / CEO/ Entrepreneurs - Part 1
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1
How To Buy
Leather Goods
& Travel In
Style, For
Founders - Part One
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2
WELCOME
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OUR CONTENT SPONSORS. PLEASE VISIT THEIR
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3
WELCOME
FIRST, On Behalf of myself, Emmanuel “Manny”
Omikunle + BJ MANNYST (Marketing Service Provider) +
Founders Under 40™ Group (10000+ founders ) + family +
friends + the whole entrepreneur community,
We want to wish you,...HAPPY THANKSGIVING +
HAPPY BLACKFRIDAY + HAPPY HOLIDAYS +
MERRY CHRISTMAS + HAPPY NEW YEAR + HAPPY
BUYING AND LOOKING SMART!!
THANK YOU!
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4
WELCOME
GIVE A SPECIAL
CONFIDENT MAN
IN YOUR LIFE UNIQUE-
QUALITY-LEATHER-
ACCESORIES!
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GIVE
LEATHER
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5
What is
Leather?
Leather is a durable and flexible material created by
tanning animal rawhide and skins. The most common raw
material source is cattle hide. It can be produced at
manufacturing scales ranging from artisan to modern
industrial scale.
WELCOME
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7
It Starts
With Source
The leather shoes, pants, jackets, bags, belt, and wallets all began
life from a source. After all, it's not like it suddenly rains
leather material.
The reality today is that most quality leather goods are made from
cattle hides, which make up about 75% of all leather produced. The
rest of the leather goods are usually made from other animals like
sheep, goats, and pigs, And a tiny percentage are from other animals
like Horses, Snakes, Crocodile, Alligator, Kangaroo, Stingray,
Deerskin Sharks,..etc
And each source has its best use case. Some leather material from a
alligator might be preferred because of the scales or sometimes it's
just a way to brag and impress others.
WELCOME
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8
ESOME
LEATHER
FACTS
DID YOU KNOW TOP GRAIN LEATHER
IS NOT THE HIGHEST QUALITY OF
LEATHER?
Due to it’s name, people often confuse
top grain leather with being the most
genuine and highest quality leather you
can buy when in fact, full grain is
considered the highest quality leather
available on the market.
LISANNA
01
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WELCOME
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Animal to
Production
Since you've found the source of animal, most likely cattle, you or a
manufacturer are going to have to make leather. Well. . .I will assume
most readers rather buy finished leather goods than make it.
It is a process not consided all roses. Like everything that becomes
consumer goods, it has to go through a series of processes. It is
complex and time consuming. A series of treatments that require
considerable time and energy. Tanning is the key. The purpose of the
tanning process is to alter the protein structure of the skin to increase
its durability, texture, and appearance.
The Steps Involve: preparatory steps, the animal skin needs to be
skinned and cured with salt to remove water , transfered to tanning,
re-tanning, and finishing. Sometimes, a further sub-process of surface
coating may be added to the process. Although curing is not
considered a part of the tanning process, it is the first crucial step in
obtaining leather.
WELCOME
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ESOME
LEATHER
FACTS
DID YOU KNOW YOU CAN GET
SALMON LEATHER?
This is one you’ve probably never heard
before but you can actually buy leather
which comes from the skin of a salmon.
DID YOU ALSO KNOW THAT THERE
ARE MANY TYPES OF CATTLE
BREEDS?
LISANNA
01
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ESOME
LEATHER
STEPS A
Preparatory Steps
The cured skin or animal hide needs to be
prepared for the tanning process. Although there
are various preparatory processes, the purpose
of each process is to remove unwanted raw skin
components. The tannery may not perform all of
them, depending on the quality and type of the
desired product.
LISANNA
01
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L E AT H E R S T E P S A - C O N T I N U E
NOTE: READ DOWNWARDS FOR STEPS 6 - 10
• Liming: This process loosens the fibers and allows the skin to
absorb various tanning chemicals. Usually, sodium sulfide and
hydrated lime are used to treat the hide, as they remove
keratinous material such as hair and wool. Fats get hydrolyzed as
the pH increases. Water is absorbed into the skin fibers, resulting
in a swollen skin structure.
• De-Liming: In this process, the hide is washed with a mixture of
water and ammonium chloride or ammonium sulfate. This
removes water (along with any impurities) to reduce swelling.
• Bating: Bating marks the end of the liming process. The flaccid
skin is treated with proteolytic bating enzymes to remove non-
fibrous proteins. It cleans the grain and makes the pelt smooth
and silky.
• De-Greasing: Sometimes, water-based solutions and solvents
are used to remove excess grease or natural fatty acids from the
skin.
• Bleaching: Chemical agents are used to making the hide
colorless to add the desired color at a later stage.
LISANNA
01NOTE: READ DOWNWARDS FOR STEPS 1 - 5
• Soaking: At this stage, the cured hide is soaked in water for
several hours to several days. This process not only restores the
moisture lost during salting, but helps to remove dirt, debris, blood,
and excess animal fats.
• Fleshing: This process removes subcutaneous material from the
flesh side. The pelt is passed through a machine to remove the
fat, muscle, and flesh mechanically. Usually, this process takes
place after slaughter, soaking, or liming. At this stage, or after
tanning, hides may be split into different layers.
• Un-hairing: Hair is removed at this stage using mechanical
instruments such as rollers and blades.
• Pickling: This process involves cleaning and soaking the rawhide
in acids or salts to prevent decomposition. It helps the penetration
of tanning agents such as chromium and aldehydes. Stronger
pickling agents are used to preserve hides for several months.
• De-Pickling: The hide is soaked in sulfuric acid to lower the pH
after pickling.
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ESOME
LEATHER
STEPS B
Tanning
The primary purpose of this process is to produce
a non-decomposable and sturdy material from the
raw animal hide, called leather. Essentially,
tanning converts the protein of the rawhide into a
durable material. The most common tanning
processes include mineral tanning, vegetable
tanning, and glutaraldehyde tanning.
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01
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L E AT H E R S T E P S B - C O N T I N U E
2) Mineral or Chrome Tanning: Mineral or chrome tanning is the
most popular tanning process because it’s much quicker, affordable,
and less labor intensive than the others. In 1858, it was introduced as
an alternative to the expensive and time-consuming vegetable
tanning process. The process can be automated and lasts a day at
most. Usually, the time for chromium tanning is around 2 or 3 hours
for small and thin skins. However, it can go up to 24 hours for thicker
ones obtained from cattle.The size of chrome molecules is small
compared to vegetable tannin ions. As a result, chrome ions can
penetrate the collagen and remove water molecules effectively.
That’s why chrome tanned leather is thinner and softer than
vegetable tanned leather. Chromium (III) sulfate is the most efficient
and effective tanning agent. Chrome tanned leather is also called wet
blue leather due to its bluish color.However, the chrome tanning
process creates a negative environmental impact as it comprises
heavy usage of acids and other chemicals. The toxic waste can seep
into groundwater and contaminate drinking water supplies. The
resulting environmental implications are a major concern, especially
in developing countries.
LISANNA
011) Vegetable Tanning: Vegetable tanning has been around for
thousands of years. Unlike mineral tanning, it uses a naturally
occurring polyphenol astringent chemical called tannin. This is usually
found in bark, leaves, and branches of trees such as oak, chestnut, or
mimosa. As it produces shades of deep brown, beige, yellow, and red,
tannin lends a unique color and texture to the leather. However, the
process is time-consuming, laborious, and expensive. There are two
types of vegetable tanning processes. The slow process takes about
30 days, while the rapid tanning process only lasts about 36 to 48
hours. Sometimes, however, the slow process can take several
months, as it may require multiple treatments. This process produces
highly durable leather. So, the vegetable tanned leather is often used
to make products such as saddles or holsters. The unmatched
durability and distinct appearance makes this leather suitable for
imprinting and intricate leatherwork such as tooling.
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L E AT H E R S T E P S B - C O N T I N U E
Image: Tanning in Solution
)
LISANNA
013) Aldehyde Tanning: This tanning process uses glutaraldehyde or
oxazolidine compounds. It is also called wet white leather due to its
pale cream color. Aldehyde tanned leather is water absorbent, soft,
and can be machine washed. It is, therefore, perfect for use in
chamois.
4) Oil Tanning: Sometimes, emulsified oils are blended with
aldehyde chemicals to produce exceptionally soft and flexible leather.
This process is called oil tanning.
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L E AT H E R S T E P S C - C O N T I N U E
Image: Dyeing Drum
LISANNA
011) Drying: At this stage, the tanned leather is pressed between two
rolling cylinders to remove the water absorbed during the tanning
process.
2) Shaving: This process removes flesh residues and creates
uniformly thick leather. The leather passes through two rolling
cylinders where the upper one is provided with helical blades.
3) Splitting: A splitting machine slices the thick leather into one or
more horizontal layers. Sometimes, this process is also carried out
after liming. The top grain layer is the most expensive leather. It is
used to make high-end leather merchandise. The layer without grain
is used to make suede leather. Sometimes, an artificial grain surface
can also be applied to it.
4) Dyeing: With the exception of vegetable tanned leather, all types
of leather are dyed. More often than not, water-soluble dyes are used,
allowing the dye molecules to penetrate inside the fibers. Thus, it
differs significantly from surface coating where dye is applied only on
the top layer.
5) Fat Liquoring: Fat liquoring, or stuffing, consists of adding fats,
oils, or waxes between fibers to keep the leather soft and flexible.
Without this process, the leather will dry and become stiff.
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ESOME
LEATHER
STEPS D
Finishing
This is the final stage where finishing touches are
added to the tanned leather – as per the desired
end product. This includes color, texture,
thickness, and surface patterns.
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01
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L E AT H E R S T E P S D - C O N T I N U E
kkkkk(fill with image or text)
LISANNA
011) Polishing: A velvet wheel rubs the leather to create a shiny
surface.
2) Embossing: The process of embossing obtains a three-
dimensional print using heated hydraulic or roller presses.
3) Surface Coating: The surface coating process adds color and
different designs to leather. As per the customer requirement, resins,
pigments, and dyes are added in layers to the surface using a variety
of techniques such as spraying, roller-coating, curtain-coating, or
hand coating.
4) Final Grading: Finally, the leather is graded before it is dispatched
to the customers. Grading is often based on a variety of factors such
as the feel of the leather, color, pattern, thickness, softness, and
flexibility.
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Identify
Leather
The holiday are coming, birthdays, gift giving, weddings, ass-kissing-
boses, and many more events are going to be a part of your living life.
And part of that life will involve making sure to buy quality-
genueine leather and not be stuck with an inferior product that you
regret ever buying.
The reality is that the marketplace is flooded with different types
of leather and many different types of synthetic leather.
Unfortunately retailers and manufactures seem to think there's a
market to sell people goods with questionable longevity use. For
example, a reputable shoe retailer is happy to sell you shoes whose
material will be comprimised in a short period. Think bonded leather.
So the key purpose of this material was to help myself and
others not get fooled by fake / unreal leather.
WELCOME
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ESOLEATHER
FACTS
DID YOU KNOW WHITE LEATHER IS
THE MOST DIFFICULT TO PRODUCE?
White dye can only be used with the best
top quality hides. When it is used on poor
quality hides, the leather becomes very
hard and at risk of cracking making white
leather very difficult to produce.
LISANNA
01
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CHECK
1) Check the Label First
The first thing you should do before trying any of
the following tricks is to check the label. Most
leather products have labels indicating different
types, such as ‘genuine leather’ or ‘full grain
leather.’ If you see dubious labels such as
‘manmade material’ or ‘made with animal
products’, chances are, it’s not genuine leather.
Avoid buying leather furniture or accessories
without any tags. It’s a sure shot sign the
manufacturer is trying to conceal the authenticity
of leather.
2) Feel the Texture
Just run your fingers over the leather to feel its
texture. As genuine leather comes from animal
hide, it will have a varying or uneven texture. If
the surface grain feels extra smooth, chances are,
it is faux leather.
LISANNA
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CHECK
3) Look for Imperfections
Genuine leather exhibits an inconsistent surface
pattern having minor imperfections. In other
words, scratches, creases, and wrinkles are an
indication of genuine leather
4) Warmth
That’s why genuine leather begets a cozy and
warm feeling to your touch. Faux / Fake leather,
however, feels cold and lifeless.
5) Elasticity
Just like any animal skin, genuine leather
changes color when stretched and has better
elasticity. If you press your finger firmly against
natural leather, it will wrinkle under pressure. But,
it will regain the original quickly. Faux leather,
however, will retain the shape of your finger for a
while.
6) Smell
Real leather has a distinct leathery smell. It
retains the smell even after going through the
tanning process. The synthetic leather material,
on the other hand, smells like plastic.
LISANNA
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CHECK
7) Rough Edges
Whether you are out shopping for leather
recliners or handbags, they will always have
rough or coarse edges. As genuine leather is
made of several layers, the edges often fray over
time. Faux leather products, however, have
smooth edges.
8) Moisture
Unlike its synthetic counterparts, natural leather
readily absorbs moisture. Splash a drop of water
on your leather merchandise. If it soaks up the
water in seconds, chances are it’s a genuine
leather item.
9) Fire Test
You have to execute this test carefully, as it will
damage a part of your leather accessory. You
can do this test on a hard-to-see area, such as
the underside of your leather recliners. Burn the
designated area using a matchstick. Genuine
leather will slightly char and produce a distinct
smell of burnt hair, while faux leather smells of
burning plastic.
LISANNA
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CHECK
10) Check the Cost
Irrespective of how hard you bargain, genuine
leather will always be expensive. When it comes
to leather shopping, there are no cheap deals.
11) Understand Different Types of Leather
The more you know about leather, the better. So,
try to understand as much you can about the
different types. When in doubt, refer to this guide.
LISANNA
01
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Spot Fake
Leather
I will bet you that not even the very sharp eye, nose, and feel can tell
the difference between fake leather and real leather all the time. We
as leather goods buyers do get fooled. How to Spot Fake Leather.
[There are several ways to spot a grain leather mimic, where split
or bonded leather is embossed to look like more durable grain
leather. If the leather in question has a very uniform or
monotonous pattern, it may be evidence of embossing. ]
Be careful about the term “genuine leather”. The genuine leather can
be used inaccurately. A shoe could be mix material of rubber and
leather but manaufacturers may fail to mention that and sell you on
GL.
At the end of the day, the key tip to remember is that the more money
you have to spend on any goods or services the more questions you
should ask. Do your home work even if you read this content.
WELCOME
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ESOLEATHER
FACTS
DID YOU KNOW COWHIDE IS THE
MOST POPULAR CHOICE FOR
LEATHER PRODUCTION?
Out of all the skins available, cowhide is
the most widely used of all. This is
thought to be due to the fact that it is very
easy to take care of as well being as the
thickest usually weighing in at between 1
and 12 ounces.
LISANNA
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Types of
Leather
If you thought reading the content prior to this page was all you
needed to be a “leather pro”, sorry you are just sracthig the sufface.
A cow or cattle has a pretty thick skin which is also refered to as
Cowhide.
A whole cowhide is really thick, and generally too thick to be
useful for everyday leather products. So it’s usually cut down to
be thinner and more useful for different uses.
[Cowhide is made of two main integrated layers – the corium and the
grain. Collagen fibers in the corium are thinner and more flexible, and
become tighter and thicker as they move up toward the grain, where
the fibers are tightly packed and very sturdy. The corium becomes
thicker with age, which is why calfskins are thinner, smoother and
softer than the hides of older animals.]
WELCOME
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ESOLEATHER
GRADES
The top part of the grain faces outward toward
the hair, and can contain blemishes like insect
bites, stretch marks, scars, and brands. This
means that the very top part of the grain is often
buffed off to make the leather look more uniform.
Types of Leather Grades
• Top grain
• Full grain
• Split leather
• Bonded leather
LISANNA
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TYPES
The quality of leather varies greatly. Not only do
you have to know more about types of quality you
also need to know where to get the high quality
for your money. .
The best quality leather will depend on these
important factors, most notably:
• Type of animal and breed
• Physical location and climate where the
animal lived
• The portion of the hide the leather was cut
from
• The layer of the hide that is used (top grain,
full grain, split)
• Quality and skill of the processing and
tanning
LISANNA
01
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TYPES
[Different layers within the hide also have an
enormous impact on quality. Full grain leather
and top-grain are the best. See our in depth focus
on the grain vs split just a few paragraphs further
down to know which portion you are buying.
Finally, knowing exactly how to take a raw hide
and process it through tanning and finishing is a
sought after skill and will influence the quality of
the final product significantly. Italian leather is
admired for this very reason – as Italian leather
artisans are considered amongst the most skilled
in the world.
In general, there are four types of leather.
These include Full Grain Leather, Top Grain
Leather, Corrected Grain Leather, and Bonded
Leather. Take a look at the picture below. See
how the fibers run both horizontally and
vertically in different parts of the hide. ]
LISANNA
01Did you know there are different breeds of
cows in the world? There are more than five and
all come in different size, appearances,
behaviours, hide thickness, etc.
Which means different breeds of cows will
produce different quality hides due to their
genetics and environment. Some cow or cattle
types might have more protective hair or thicker
skins due to the weather.
Different portions of the hide also yield different
quality leather.
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TYPES
FYI:Buying leather with more horizontal
fibers wears out quickly because they can readily
pulled apart. Vertically running fibers, however,
are the strongest. In other words, the higher the
number of vertical fibers, the better.
LISANNA
01[A. Full Grain Leather
Full grain leather comes from the top layer of the
hide. It includes all the grain with it – hence the
name full grain leather. This type of leather
retains the inherent toughness, as well as the
imperfections because there are no surface
alterations or splitting.It is the highest quality
leather and the only one suitable for saddleback.
B. Top Grain Leather
Top grain is the second highest grade of leather.
Usually, to obtain top grain leather, the top layer
of skin from blemished hides is split. The surface
is sanded to get rid of inherent imperfections.
Pigmentation or staining gives the leather an
attractive look.This also makes top grain leather
smoother and more flexible than the full grain.
Although this type of leather is strong and durable,
it tends to stretch permanently over time. It is
used to produce suede and nubuck. ]
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TYPES
C. Corrected Grain (Bottom Cut/Split) Leather
Corrected grain or split leather, also known as
genuine leather, is produced using the skin layers
that remain after the top is split off and from the
corium predominantly (see diagram above). Split
leather tends to be tougher in texture due to the
fact that is resides under the top layers and is
mostly used in applications that don’t require the
leather to be soft like furniture backs and sides.
D. Bonded Leather
Bonded leather is made up of leftovers of the hide.
This includes the dust and shavings. These are
bonded together using polyurethane or latex on
top of a fiber sheet. It is often spray-painted to
look like full or top grain leather. You can’t
determine the percentage of natural leather
unless the manufacturer chooses to disclose it –
which is very unlikely. Bonded leather is the
lowest (and the cheapest) grade of leather.
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MORE
FYI:If you reallywant to learn more about
leather types, the following list should be
something you should lookup. Some are just
based on the process, technique, the source, and
so on. However the key thing to know for the
average consumer is whether the leather (hide)
is:
• Type of animal and breed
• Physical location and climate where the
animal lived
• The portion of the hide the leather was cut
from
• The layer of the hide that is used (top grain,
full grain, split)
• Quality and skill of the processing and
tanning
ENJOY!
LISANNA
01
Aniline Leather, Semi-Aniline Leather, Antique
Grain Leather, Chrome-Free Leather, Chrome
Tanned Leather, Pigmented Leather, Crust
Leather, Embossed Leather, Finished Split
Leather, Kidskin Leather, Latigo Leather,
Nappa Leather, Nubuck Leather, Oil Tanned
Leather, Patent Leather, Pebble Grain Leather,
Pigmented Leather, Printed Leather, Pull-Up
Leather, Saffiano Leather, Semi-Aniline
Leather, Skirting Leather, Suede Leather,
Tooling Calf Leather, Waxy Hand Leather,
Image: Quality FULL GRAIN Leather GQBULL® Passport Cover
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Thickness
&Use
[The leather thickness and weight play a critical role in deciding what
the end product will be. For example, thinner hides (1-3 ounce) are
used to make the leather jacket, furniture, moldings, linens, and
embossing. Thick leather, on the other hand, is often used to make
items such as leather belt, knife sheaths, holsters, saddlebags, and
leather dog collar.
The ounce is the standard unit of measuring the leather thickness.
However, some leather thickness charts may also use millimeter and
inch as the measuring unit. Typically, an ounce of leather equals 1/64
of an inch. However, the leather thickness varies slightly as the hide
doesn’t have a uniform thickness. Split leather may have a more
consistent thickness than a rawhide. But, you will still find some
variation. ]
WELCOME
Image: Quality Leather GQBULL® Watches & Watch Bands
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Aniline: A colorless oily liquid made from coal tar used in
making dyes and resins in organic synthesis.
Aniline dye: The type of dye used to give the initial color to a
skin.
Aniline leather: Aniline dying is the process of putting skins
into a drum and allowingthe dye to soak completely through.
Semi-Aniline: Aniline leather to which a matching pigment is
added to even out the color and add protection.
Back: A side with the belly cut off, usually 15 – 18 sq. ft.
Bark tanned: Leather which has been vegetable tanned
mainly by means of tannins contained in the bark of trees.
Belly: The lower part of a side, usually 4 – 8 sq. ft.
Bovine: An animal belonging to the cattle or ox family.
Buffed leather: Leather from which the grain is removed by
an abrasive or bladed cylinder. This process is used in altered
or corrected grain leather.
Chrome tannage: Leather tanned with chromium salts
resulting in soft, mellow hides receptive to excellent color
variety.
Combination tannage: Leather which receives chrome and
vegetable tannage producing suppleness and body in the hide.
Corrected grain: Commonly referred to as top grain. Lacking
an intact full grain surface. Usually heavily pigmented.
Cowhide: Term specifically applied to leather made from
hides of cows, although the term is sometimes loosely used to
designate any leather tanned from hides of animals of the
bovine species.
LISANNA
01TERMS
Drum dyeing: The application of dyestuffs to leather by the
immersion of the leather in a drum that is tumbled. This
process allows full dye penetration into the fiber.
Embossed leather: Usually corrected grain, in which a
pattern is applied by extreme pressure in a press to give a
unique design or imitation of full grain characteristics.
Sometimes leathers are embossed to make them appear to
be another leather, such as embossing an alligator pattern
into cowhide.
Fat wrinkle: Wrinkles in the grain of leather caused by fat
deposits in the animal, that create beauty in the leather. Fat
wrinkles are not visible in imitation grain leather.
Finish: Generally defines a surface application on the leather
to color, protect or mask imperfections. More specifically, it
refers to all processes administered to leather after it has
been tanned.
Full grain: Leather in which the grain layer or dermis has not
been altered. The grain layer gives each type of leather its
distinctive appearance.
Grain (leather): The outside of the hide or skin consisting of
the pores, cells, wrinkles and other characteristics which
constitute the natural texture of the leather.
Grain, embossed: An artificial grain pressed into the surface
of top grain leather from which the original grain has been
removed.
Hand: A leather industry term used to describe the feel, i.e.
suppleness or fullness of leather. Soft, medium, and firm.
Hide: The pelt of a large animal.
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Hump Hole: A narrow slit occasionally found along the spine
area. The holes are due to certain breeds of steer having a
“hump” on the spine that must be cut/slit so that the hide will
lay flat during the tanning process. Commin to certain breeds
of cow the split typically does not effect yields.
Kip: The hide from a grass-fed, immature bovine.
Leather: An animal hide which has been preserved and
dressed for use. Typical hides include
Cowhide
Elkskin
Water Buffalo
Deerskin
Goatskin
Pigskin
Lambskin
Sheepskin
Matte finish: A flat or dull finish.
Milling: The leather is tumbled or “milled” in a large drum to
produce a softer more pliable product. Many times this
operation can create a slight “pebble” appearance in the
surface of the leather.
Naked leather: A dyed leather which has received no topical
application that may mask or alter the natural state of the
leather.
Nubuck: A leather whose surface has been buffed and
brushed to create a soft, velvety effect. Differs from suede in
that while suede is created from the flesh (inner) side of a hide,
nubuc is created using the grain (outer) side, giving it added
strength and durability.
LISANNA
01TERMS
Patent leather: Leather with a glossy impermeable finish
produced by successive coats of drying oils, varnish, or
synthetic resins.
Patina: A natural characteristic that develops on full grain
leather through normal use over a period of time.
Perforated: In leather, this is the process of die-cutting small
holes to form a pattern. The holes can vary in size, density
and pattern.
Rawhide: Untanned or partially tanned cattlehides.
Retannage: A modifying secondary tannage applied after
intermediate operations following the primary tannage to
further enrich and enhance the quality of the leather.
Shrunken grain leather: A full, natural grain leather which is
shrunken to enlarge and enhance the grain character of the
leather.
Side: Half a hide cut along the back bone.
Skive: The shave, slice or divide to peel into a thin layer, or
to reduce leather to a specific thickness.
Split leather: Leather made from the bottom split, or reticular
layer of the hide, which has an imitation grain embossed into a
heavily finished pigmented surface to simulate papillary
leather.
Suede: A fibrous leather, typically made from the reticular part
of the hide.
Sueding: The process of raising fibers on the grain side of a
hide or skin to give a velvet nap effect. This is generally called
“nubuck” or “grain sueded.”
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44
Tannage:
Chrome tannage: Leather tanned with chromium salts
resulting in soft, mellow hides receptive to excellent color
variety.
Vegetable tannage: The conversion of raw hide into leather
by use of vegetable tannins. This process produces leather
with greater body and firmness than the more general method
of chromium tanning.
Tannin: Any various solvent, astringent substances of plant
origin used in tanning leather.
Temper: Defines the pliability or softness of the leather.
FIRM: Leather that has hard and rigid characteristics. Firm
leather represents products requiring very little flexibility. Belt,
straps, ect.
REGULAR: Leather is slightly firm and having no rigid
qualities. When worked, regular leathers display smooth, even
folds. Shoes, boots, ect.
MELLOW: This type of leather is very limber and pliant. No
snap when worked, tends to lack firmness. Hand bags,
sneakers, ect.
SOFT: Leather that is extremely flexible and pliant.
Garments, upholstery, ect.
LISANNA
01TERMS
Top grain: An over-used term commonly used to refer to
corrected grain leather. See Corrected Grain.
Trim: The removal of the outer edges of the hide not suitable
for making leather.
Tumbled: The leather is tumbled or “milled” in a large drum to
produce a softer more pliable product. Many times this
operation can create a slight “pebble” appearance in the
surface of the leather.
Upholstery leather: A general term for leather processed for
many uses, including furniture, automobiles, aircraft,
architectural applications, etc.
Vegetable tanning: The conversion of raw hide into leather
by use of vegetable tannins. This process produces leather
with greater body and firmness than the more general method
of chromium tanning.
Weight: The thickness of leather is measured by it’s weight in
ounces per square foot. Weight’s are approximate and may
fluctuate up to 1oz depending on the type of hide.
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