This document provides information on gray hair coloring and formulas for covering gray. It discusses the stages of gray hair and factors that affect color uptake. Formulas listed use double natural shades for 100% gray coverage. Additional tones or amplifiers can be added for deeper coverage. Troubleshooting tips address problems like buildup, texture changes, and moisture levels. The document emphasizes proper preparation and formulas with increased pigments for longer-lasting color.

1. GRAY COVERAGE
Mastey Certification Program

2. 1to1mixingratio
Always make sure color and developer match up

3. ProcessingTimes
Dyes are all oxidative and need to process fully for best results

4. WHY DOES HAIR TURN GRAY?
Decreased Melanin Production from the body.

5. STAGES OF GRAY
3 steps of diminished melanin production

6. HOW DOES HAIR GROW
3 stages of natural hair growth

7. INDIVIDUAL HAIR CYCLES
Each hair strand has it’s own lifespan.

8. HOW FAST DOES GRAY GROW
The same as regular hair.

9. TEXTURE AND POROSITY CHANGES
Course, Compact Cuticle, Wiry, Dry

10. FACTORS FOR HEALTHY HAIR GROWTH
Summer Weather, Healthy Diet, Certain Fruits & Vitamins

11. NOTICEABILITY OF GRAY HAIR
Different Hair Levels Show Gray Differently

12. COLOR FORMULATION
It’s Like Cooking!

13. Cookie Recipe
Egg + Flour + Water + Sugar + Salt + Vanilla
Maybe Raisins, or Oatmeal, or Chocolate Chips
What if I added more sugar or more salt? How does that change
it?
What if I add pecans?
Your own recipe is what makes you special, and your own
formulas is what sets you apart.

14. OUR INGREDIENTS
The Color Wheel

15. NEUTRAL = BROWN
Blue + Red + Yellow = Brown

16. NEUTRAL = BROWN
Blue + Red = Violet & Violet + Yellow = Brown

17. NEUTRAL = BROWN
Blue + Yellow = Green & Green + Red = Brown

18. NEUTRAL = BROWN
Red + Yellow = Orange & Orange + Blue = Brown

19. NEUTRAL = BROWN
Orange + Purple + Green = Brown

20. Mastey Tonal Values
.0 - Naturals
.00 - Double Naturals
.1 - Ash
.2 - Platinum
.3 - Gold
.4 - Copper
.5 - Mahogany
.6 - Red
.07 - Deep Blue
.9 Tobacco
.0 - Pale Violet
.00 - Violet/Gold
.1 - Blue
.2 - Violet
.3 - Yellow
.4 - Orange
.5 - Red / Brown
.6 - Red
.07 - Deep Blue
.9 - Purple/Orange/Green

21. Tones Breakdown
Cool Tones
.0
.00
.1
.2
Warm Tones
.3
.4
.5
.6
Special Tones
.07
.9

22. GRAY COVERAGE
Simple Solution = Use Double Natural Shades

23. Double Natural Formula
Example Formula
5.00 + 20 Volume

24. Double Natural Formula
5.00 Color Breakdown
5.00 = 5.0 + 4.0 + 5.3
No Stain Dyes
No PPDs
No PTDs

25. 5.0 & 4.0 has a VIOLET base
With more depth due to level mixture
5.3 has a GOLD base
.00 = 2 Violet + 1 Yellow
Violet = Red + Blue
Red + Blue + Yellow = Brown
Brown = 100% Gray Coverage
Tonal Bases of .00

26. ADDING TONAL VALUE
Double Natural + Secondary Tone

27. 5.00 + 5.34
Chocolate Brown with 100% Gray Coverage

28. .00 + Secondary Tone
Deeper Coverage
3/4 (.00) + 1/4 (Tone)
1.5 oz (5.00) + .5 oz (5.34)
More Tonal Value
1/2 (.00) + 1/2 (Tone)
1 oz (5.00) + 1 oz (5.34)

29. 5.00 + 5.1
Cool Ash Brown with 100% Gray Coverage

30. 5.00 + 5.3
Golden Brown with 100% Gray Coverage

31. .00 + Amplifier
Deeper Coverage
7/8 (.00) + 1/8 (Tone)
1.825 oz (5.00) +.125 oz (37)
More Tonal Value
3/4 (.00) + 1/4 (Tone)
1.75 oz (5.00) + .25 oz (37)

32. 5.00 + 37 Amplifier
Green Ash Brown with 100% Gray Coverage

33. Matching Matte Colors
Used when trying to match new growth to ends that have a lot of
demi-color build up.
Strand test
5.00 + 4.0
3/4 (5.00) + 1/4 (4.0)

34. Gray Color Wash Highlights
Select 1 to 2 levels lighter
than existing hair color
Formulate with 10 volume
Process for 25-30 minutes
Creates Color Wash that
fades over time and blends
with new gray growth.

35. Gray Color Wash Highlights
Existing Level 7
Target for Highlights Level 9
9.23 + 10 Volume
Process for 25-30 minutes

36. Demi Gray Formula
1oz Teinture
2 oz Instantane
1 oz 20 Volume

37. Demi Gray Formula
1oz - 9.23 Teinture
2 oz - 9.23 Instantane
1 oz - 20 Volume
30 Minute Processing

38. Red Heads
Tips:
Darker Root Base Formula
For more red vibrancy add
red to your above formula
Pay attention to the type of
gray hair
Never mix a red with a
neutral you may get purple

39. Pay Attention To
% of gray
underlying pigment
whether you are lifting or
depositing
are you going to use heat to
process
what peroxide volume: 20
or 30?

40. Avoiding Hot Roots
Root Formula Darker
Target Level 5
Mids & Ends Lighter
Target Level 6

41. Basic Formulas
Gray Hair that is in the Translucent Stage
Use (.6) RED or (.4) COPPER or
(.5) MAHOGANY shade
Add % of GOLD to help with
gray coverage
1.5 oz RED + .5 oz GOLD
1.5 oz (5.6) + .5 oz (5.3)

42. Basic Formulas
Gray Hair that is in the Gray Stage
Use (.6) RED or (.4) COPPER or
(.5) MAHOGANY shade
Add % of (.3) & % of (.00) to help with
gray coverage
1.5 oz (5.6) + .25 oz (5.3) + .25 oz (5.00)

43. Basic Formulas
Gray Hair that is in the White Stage
Use (.6) RED or (.4) COPPER or
(.5) MAHOGANY shade
Add % of (.3) & high % of (.00) to help with
gray coverage
.5 oz (5.6) + .5 oz (5.3) + 1 oz (5.00)

44. Client over 50% gray white hair
New growth Formula:
2 oz. - (5.00)
1 oz. - (6.46)
1 oz. - (6.4)

45. Client over 50% gray white hair
Teinture Formula:
5.00 (2oz) + 6.46 (1 oz) + 6.4 (1 oz)
Formula Breakdown:
(1oz) 5.00 + (1 oz) 5.00 + (1oz) 6.46 + (1oz) 6.4
(1oz) 5.00 + (1 oz) 5.00 + (2/3oz) 6.4 + (1/3oz) 6.6 + (1oz) 6.4
1 VIOLET + 1 GOLD + 1 VIOLET + 1 GOLD + 2/3 COPPER + 1/3 RED + 1 RED
1/2 BLUE + 1/2 RED + 1 GOLD + 1/2 BLUE + 1/2 RED + 1 GOLD + 1/3 GOLD + 1/3 RED + 1/3 RED + 1 RED
3/6 BLUE + 3/6 RED + 6/6 GOLD + 3/6 BLUE + 3/6 RED + 6/6GOLD + 2/6 GOLD + 2/6 RED + 2/6 RED + 6/6 RED
6/6 BLUE + 16/6 RED + 14/6 GOLD
1 BLUE + 2 1/3 GOLD + 2 2/3 RED
1 BROWN + 1 1/3 GOLD + 1 2/3 RED

46. Salt & Pepper
1oz - Teinture
1 oz - 10 Volume
15-20 Minutes Processing

47. Salt & Pepper
1 oz - 5.1 Teinture
1 oz - 10 Volume
15-20 Minutes Processing

48. PEROXIDE CHOICE
Dependent on your client

49. TROUBLE SPOTS
Temples and Hair line

50. Trouble Shooting
PROBLEM 1: Severe build up from facial / skin products
Lotions, Moisturizers, Cremes
Medicinal / Acne / Corrective Cremes
Facial Toners
Foundations & Other Make up

51. Trouble Shooting
SOLUTION 1: Remove build up before color process
Use Me First Pre-Treatment
Apply to temple and hairline area
Lather & Let Sit for a few minutes
Rinse
Re-apply UMF to entire head, Lather, & Rinse

52. Trouble Shooting
PROBLEM 2: Texture or State Change
More Compact Cuticle
Thicker / Courser Hair Shaft at Base
Finer and more compact cuticle
Dryer Less Moisturized Hair
Oily hair

53. Trouble Shooting
SOLUTION 1: Application Change
Use Me First Pre-Treatment
Double Application Technique
Apply Hair Color Mixture to hair line and temples first
Apply Color Mixture in paper thin sections through our 4 quadrants
Re-apply color to hair line and temple area
Ensure there is proper saturation throughout hair

54. Trouble Shooting
SOLUTION 2: Pre-Softening the Cuticle
Use Me First Pre Treatment
Use Developer to Pre-Soften Stubborn Gray
Apply 20 Volume Mastey Developer to stubborn grays
Let sit for 5 minutes
Wipe off
Apply Color Mixture, making sure to apply first to stubborn areas

55. Trouble Shooting
Solution 3: Pre-Pigmenting the Cuticle with Color
Use Me First Pre-Treatment
Apply Lower Level Color Mixture to stubborn area
Let sit while you apply desired formula through out hair
Re-Apply Desired formula over Stubborn Areas
Make sure to blend colors on the reapplication

56. Proper Moisture
Solution 4: Pre-Moisturize Gray before color
Use Me First Pre-Treatment
Apply Moisturee Moisturizing Treatment
Leave in for 5 minutes then Rinse
Proper moisture balance allows gray hair to accept other ingredients
Moisture will trap in color and amino acids for longer lasting better
coverage

57. PH OF HAIR = 5

58. Trouble Shooting
SOLUTION 4: Raise pH of hair higher to open up compact cuticle.
Alter color formula to raise developer by 5 or 10 volumes
Alter color selection by lowering tint level by 1 level
Original Formula
5. 0 + 20Volume
New Formula
4. 0 + 25 or 30Volume

59. Double Pigment Formula
SOLUTION 5: Increase Amount of Pigments in Color Formula
Dilute Stronger Volume Peroxides with Color Instantane to create a
pre-pigmented developer that you mix with permanent color.
This Doubles the amount of color pigments in your formula

60. 2oz of 20 Volume Developer

61. Making 20 Volume Developer

62. Making 20 Volume Pre-Pigmented
Developer

63. 200% Color Formula

64. COLOR MAGNETS
Acidic Dyes attach to Oxidative dyes like magnets
Teinture = Oxidative Dye Instantane = Acidic Dye

65. 200% COLOR PIGMENTS
More pigment in the hair makes for longer lasting richer color

66. Final Tips
Extra things you can do to help with gray coverage
Process under heat
Extend timing of color process
Make sure to properly saturate the hair / Use enough product
Scoring technique when applying color

67. QUESTIONS
100% Gray Coverage

68. RepairingTreatmentSystem

69. ProperPreparation
A Clean Canvas

70. ColorSafeHairPurifier
Remove Build up without stripping color or causing dryness or damage

71. ExtremelyDamagedHair
Repair over processed and damaged hair with SuperPac and Moisturee