Hair Color Education program for www.masteyhaircolor.com Focuses on Advanced Formulation techniques and color mixing.

1. MASTEYTEINTURE
Color Formulations

2. THERE ARE PLENTY OF
WRONG FORMULAS

3. THERE IS NO RIGHT FORMULA

4. DIFFERENT PEOPLE
Different Formulas

5. CONSULTATION

6. NATURAL LEVEL => DESIRED LEVEL
RPC =
% GRAY =
NEEDED LIFT =
ADDITIONALTONE=
RPC = RED
% GRAY = 25%
NEEDED LIFT = 3 LEVELS
ADDITIONALTONE= PURPLE

7. Mastey Hair Color Is Not Matte Or Translucent It Is Reflective Color Like Natural Hair Color
LEVELS
Natural Hair Levels

8. As level rises so does alkalinity
Water Conditioners Alkaline Agent Pigment

9. LEVEL 6 WILL LIFT MORE
THAN A LEVEL 5

10. MORE LIFT = MORE RPC

11. As level rises amount of Pigment Decreases
Water Conditioners Alkaline Agent Pigment

12. LEVEL 9 HAS MORE PIGMENT
THAN A LEVEL 11

13. MORE PIGMENT =
BETTER COVERAGE &TONING

15. 60VOLUME HAS MORE LIFT
THAN 10VOLUME

17. 10VOLUME DEPOSITS BETTER
THAN 60VOLUME

18. REMAINING PIGMENT

19. % OF GRAY

21. DESIRED TONAL VALUE

22. NATURAL LEVEL => DESIRED LEVEL
RPC =
% GRAY =
NEEDED LIFT =
ADDITIONALTONE=
RPC = RED
% GRAY = 25%
NEEDED LIFT = 3 LEVELS
ADDITIONALTONE= PURPLE

25. Tones & Bases
24 pre mixed tonal options

26. Color Tones
Numbers Letters & Words

31. AMPLIFIERS
Oxidative Tints

32. 07 => COOL NEUTRAL + BLUE
Used to enhance darker shades or neutralize lighter shades

33. 37 => YELLOW + BLUE = GREEN
Used to neutralize REDS AND ORANGES

34. 22 => VIOLET + VIOLET
Used to enhance dark shades or neutralize yellows in light shades

35. 44 => COPPER + COPPER
Used to enhance or introduce coper into a shade

36. 64 => RED + COPPER
Used to enhance or introduce red copper into a shade

37. 66 => RED + RED
Used to enhance or introduce red into a shade

38. 67 => RED + BLUE
Used to enhance or introduce red cherry into a shade

39. 33 => GOLD + GOLD
Used to enhance or introduce gold into a shade

40. How to use Amplifiers
✤ For Vibrancy
✤ For Toning

41. How much do I use
✤ 7/8 Base Shade + 1/8 Amplifier = Toning While Lifting
✤ 3/4 Base Shade + 1/4 Amplifier = More Depth + Little Tone
✤ 1/2 Base Shade + 1/2 Amplifier = More Tone + Less Depth
✤ 1/4 Base Shade + 3/4 Amplifier = Mostly Tone + Little Depth

42. When Should I use Amplifiers
✤ Depositing => To add tone
✤ Lifting 1 Level=> minimal RPC / add to enhance tone
✤ Lifting 2 Levels => RPC Medium / Use to enhance or counteract
✤ Lifting 3 + Levels => RPC Lots / Use to enhance or counteract

43. Color Formulations for Vibrancy
✤ Black & Dark Browns
✤ Use 07 or 22 to add a Blue or Violet tone to your blacks. this gives
you a more beautiful richer black as opposed to a flat black.
✤ 1 part 1.07 + 1 part 07 + 10 Volume
✤ 1 part 1.07 + 1 part 22 + 10 Volume

44. Color Formulations for Vibrancy
✤ Reds
✤ Use 64, 66 and 67 with red shades to add intensity to existing red
shades
✤ Use higher levels of peroxide to expose more underlying pigment
and use that to intensify a result.
✤ 1 part 7.6 + 1 part 66 + 30 Volume + HEAT (optional)

45. Color Formulations for Vibrancy
✤ Coppers
✤ Use 44 and 64 with copper shades to create richer brighter copper
results.
✤ Use higher levels of peroxide to expose more underlying pigment
and use that natural remaining pigment to enhance the copper
result.
✤ 1 part 8.64 + 1 part 64 + 30 Volume + HEAT (optional)

46. Color Formulations for Toning
✤ When Lifting
✤ Adding 37 green, 22 violet or 07 blue, or a combination of them
into a formula, can help you to counteract underlying pigment as
you are lifting.

47. Classic Formulation: Highlights
✤ On Levels 6 and bellow:
✤ Add 37 Green amplifier to your lifting formula
✤ 11.2 + 37 + 60 Volume

48. Classic Formulation: Highlights
✤ On Levels 7 and higher:
✤ Add 07 BLUE Amplifier to your lifting formula
✤ 11.2 + 07 + 60 Volume

49. ✤ For more control
✤ Mix 07 and 37 to create a more blue green when counteracting.
✤ Others like Violet pigment so they use 22 instead of 07 or a
mixture of 07 & 22 in their high lift formulas.
Classic Formulation: Highlights

50. AMPLIFIERS
✤ For best results use with a base tone that already has the desired
tone: 4.6 + 66
✤ The more amplifier you put into a formula the more it affects the
lift of the shade in that formula
✤ 11.2 + 07 lifts less than just using 11.2

51. PERCENTAGES MAKE A
DIFFERENCE
• 1 1/2 oz of 6.6 + 1/2 oz of 66
• IS NOT EQUALTO
• 1/2 oz of 6.6 + 1/1/2 oz of 66

52. SIMPLE FORMULATION
BREAKDOWN
• 4.3 => 4.0 + 33

53. SIMPLE FORMULATION
BREAKDOWN
• The more 33 you add the more gold in your formula
• The more gold the more warmth you create.
• To add more warmth or gold to a level 4 gold (4.3):
•4.3 + 33

54. TRICKIER FORMULATION
BREAKDOWN
• 4.65 = 4.6 + 4.5
• or
• 4.65 = 4.6 + 33 + 22 + 66

55. ADDING MOREVIOLETTO
4.65
• 4.65 + 22

56. COLOR FORMULATION
It’s Like Cooking!

57. NEUTRAL = BROWN
Blue + Red + Yellow = Brown

58. NEUTRAL = BROWN
Orange + Purple + Green = Brown

59. YOU ARE ALWAYS MAKING
BROWN!
• Make Brown then AddTone

60. STARTING LEVEL => DESIRED LEVEL
FORMULA
LEVEL 4.0
10VOLUME
AMPLIFIER: NONE
START LEVEL: 5
DESIRED LEVEL: 4
RPC = NONE
% GRAY = 0%
NEEDED LIFT = 0 LEVELS
ADDITIONALTONE= NONE

61. STARTING LEVEL => DESIRED LEVEL
FORMULA
LEVEL 3.0
10VOLUME
AMPLIFIER: 07 + 22
START LEVEL: 5
DESIRED LEVEL: 3
RPC = NONE
% GRAY = 0%
NEEDED LIFT = 0 LEVELS
ADDITIONALTONE=
BLUE/PURPLE

62. STARTING LEVEL => DESIRED LEVEL
FORMULA
LEVEL 6.56
TO HELP GRAY: 6.3
20 OR 30VOLUME
AMPLIFIER: 67
START LEVEL: 4
DESIRED LEVEL: 6
RPC = RED
% GRAY = 25%
NEEDED LIFT = 3 LEVELS
ADDITIONALTONE= PURPLE

63. STARTING LEVEL => DESIRED LEVEL
FORMULA
LEVEL 8.0
30 OR 40VOLUME
AMPLIFIER: 07 OR 07 +22
OR 07+37
START LEVEL:5
DESIRED LEVEL: 8
RPC =YELLOW/ORANGE
% GRAY = 0%
NEEDED LIFT = 3 LEVELS
ADDITIONALTONE= NEUTRAL

64. STARTING LEVEL => DESIRED LEVEL
FORMULA
LEVEL 11.2
60VOLUME
AMPLIFIER: 07 OR 07 +22
OR 07+37
TONE WITH 9.2 DEMI
START LEVEL:7
DESIRED LEVEL: 11
RPC =YELLOW
% GRAY = 0%
NEEDED LIFT = 4 LEVELS
ADDITIONALTONE=
PLATINUM

65. How Long Will Color Last
✤ Depends on:
✤ Porosity
✤ Dryness
✤ Contact Duration
✤ Shampoo Habits
✤ Color Darkness
✤ Type of Color Formula

66. GLOSS / GLAZE
SEMI
DEMI
PERMANENT

67. CUSTOMERTYPE = FORMULA
TYPE

68. Advance Color Formulas
Using Oxidative & Acidic Dyes

69. Refreshing Faded Ends
Use remaining color in bowl and add Color Instantane to pull through
Use instead of a shampoo cap or pulling through straight color

70. Doubling Your Pigment
✤ Normal Formula
✤ 2 oz 5.34 Teinture
✤ 2 oz 20 Volume
✤ Double Pigment Formula
✤ 2 oz 5.34 Teinture
✤ 1 oz 40 Volume
✤ 1 oz 5.34 Instantane

71. TINT BACKS
From Bleached Blonde Back to Brown

72. Date

73. Date

74. Demi Permanent
2 oz Instantane + 1oz 20 Volume + 1oz Teinture
Use instead of progressive demi products like shades

75. Semi Permanent
2 oz Instantane + 1oz 10 Volume + 1oz Teinture
Lasts about 6-8 shampoos
Text

76. Types of Toners
✤ Use amplifiers in your formula to tone as you lift.
✤ Mastey Color Shampoo
✤ Instantane as a toner by itself
✤ Toner Formula

77. Toner Formula = SEMI
2 oz Instantane + 1oz 10 Volume + 1oz Teinture
Lasts about 6-8 shampoos

78. Gloss or Glaze
Gloss is a clear shine / Glaze is a gloss tinted with a tone

79. Gloss
Apply to hair after color, Process 10 Minutes, Shampoo

80. Glaze
1oz Clear Gloss + 1oz of desired tone in Instantane
CG + 5.73 Instantane => Toasted Hazelnut Glaze, Same Process procedure as Gloss

81. PUTTING IT
ALLTOGETHER
From Color Creation to Final Look

82. KATY PERRY
Create a beautiful tone over black to dark brown hair
1.07 + 07 OR 1.07 + 22

83. DUCHESS OF CAMBRIDGE
Dark Hair with Glimmers of Golden Light
11.2 + 07 OR 11.2 + 37 Both with 60Volume

84. ANN HATHAWAY
Creating Root Beer
6.3 + 4.65

85. EMMA STONE
Formula 1: 6.64 + 6.3
Formula 2: 7.43 Glaze Formula

86. JENNIFER ANISTON
Formula 1: 7.1 + 20Volume
Formula 2: 6.23 + 10Volume
Formula 3: 11.2 + 60Volume

87. JENNIFER LOPEZ
Formula 1: 8.1 + 37 + 30Volume
Formula 2: 11.2 + 07 + 60Volume
Formula 3: 7.4 + 9.3 + 20Volume
Formula 4: 7.9 + 10Volume
Formula 5: 11.2 + 10.2 Glaze

88. 10 FORMULA CONVERSIONS
• Pick 10 of your existing
formulas
• Pick a part of each formula
you would like to enhance
• Enhance them some how
using the techniques you
have learned.Add a tone, a
glaze or double pigment...

89. 10 CELEBRITY FORMULAS
• Pick 10 celebrities
• Grab a picture of their look
from google images.
• Tell us how you would
achieve that look on your
model.
• Each models starting level is
either a level 4, 5, or 6
• These looks should be more
than 1 single color, they
should use the techniques
and formulations you have
learned in your training.