Methods of Fabric Construction

Textiles, Clothing &Fashion
(TCF)
Facilitator: Mrs. C. Christmas
Wednesday, July 26,
2017
CSEC- TCF Syllabus - Section 1: Fibres, Yarns and Fabrics 1
(Adapted)

FABRIC
CONSTRUCTION
2CSEC- TCF Syllabus - Section 1: Fibres, Yarns and Fabrics
Wednesday, July 26,
2017
Syllabus reference: Section 1 # 7 (a)- ( c )

Introduction
◦ When you see the clothes you wear or fabric you use for curtains or bedsheet,
have you noticed something different in them? Some fabrics are thick, others are
thin, some are plain, others have self-design and some are stiff and others limp. If
you examine your clothes, you will find that your inner clothes or underwear are
very different from outer clothes. These differences in fabrics are because of their
construction.
◦ As a young designer you need to be aware of these essential elements to enable to
select the appropriate fabric for your projects.
◦ Take notes in an organized manner, go through once before doing so.
Wednesday, July 26, 2017 CSEC- TCF Syllabus - Section 1: Fibres, Yarns and Fabrics 3

Lesson Objective:
At the end of this lesson you should be able to:
◦ outline the methods of fabric construction
You should be able to give main points and
essential supplementary materials,
present the information in a systematic
arrangement or classification.
4CSEC- TCF Syllabus - Section 1: Fibres, Yarns and FabricsWednesday, July 26, 2017

Fabric Construction
oFabrics can be constructed (made) using different
methods. They are produced by
interlaced/interlooped/bonded yarns or fibers and felts
made by interlocking fibers.
o Basically there are three (3) methods by which fabrics
are made. They are:
1. knitting process
2. Weaving process;
3. Non- woven process
◦ The fabric construction method will give the fabric a
specific look, feel and performance.

Visualize the three methods, by
clicking the link below
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HrFBiniEyUI

Weaving
◦ Weaving is the interlacing of threads; it involves two
threads which are crossed over and under each other at
right angles. Many types of weave can be created.
Selvedge
Warp threads
Weft yarns
All weaving is done
on a loom, with
simple weaves being
constructed on a
SHUTTLE loom &
more complex ones
on a JACQUARD
loom
these yarns run along the whole
length of the fabric. The warp yarn is
also called the Straight grain or
Lenghtwise grain. Parallel to the
selvedge. It is the strongest grain.
The woven edge
of the fabric
also known as the crosswise grain. It runs
horizontal or perpendicular to straight grain.

Types of Weaves
◦ Plain weave
◦ Twill weave
◦ Satin weave
Jeans
Shirt
Dress

PLAIN WEAVE
◦ The simplest of all weaves, so these
fabrics are usually cheap.
◦ Fabrics made from this weave are strong
and smooth so they are ideal for printing
as there are no texture or pattern to
detract from the printing.
◦ Plain weave fabrics hold shape well and
also drape well.
◦ The fabric looks the same on both side.
◦ Examples of fabrics made from plain
weave:
1. Calico
2. Taffeta
3. Muslin
4. Shirting (cotton)
5. Voile
6. Gingham
◦ Weaving pattern: Over one ,
under one.
Shirt

PLAIN WEAVE VARIATIONS
BASKET
Two over, two under

TWILL FABRIC WEAVE
◦ Strong, firm and hardwearing
◦ Resists snags
◦ There is a clear recognizable
diagonal
◦ Fabrics that are made from twill
weaves are:
1. denim
2. tweed,
3. tartan
4. gaberdine
◦ Weaving pattern:
Over two, under two but
staggering beginning threads to
form a diagonal line.
Jeans

SATIN WEAVE
Under one, over four or more creating
“floats” with weft yarns

SATIN WEAVE VARIATION
Sateen Weave
Floats on warp yarns

Knitting
◦ Knitting is the interlocking of loops with a single
yarn.
◦ There are two types of knit:
1. Weft Knitting
2. Warp Knitting

Knitting Process
◦ In a knitted garment you will see the following:
◦ Courses: These are the series of successive loops lying in crosswise
direction.
◦ Wales: These are the lengthwise or vertical columns of loops.

Knitting processes
Weft Knitting
◦ These knits are constructed with
a single yarn that is fed into
knitting machine needles in a
horizontal direction, also
known as filling yarns.
Warp Knitting
◦ These fabrics are constructed
with yarn loops formed in a
vertical or warp direction.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KSlkY5Z6
hhM

Click to visualize Warp knitting vs.
Weft knitting
◦ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KSlkY5Z6hhM

Fabrics of Weft knits and Warp knits
◦ Weft knit fabrics
◦ 1. Purl knit
◦ 2. Rib knit
◦ 3. Jersey knit
◦ Properties: Heavy, firm; usually has almost no
stretch in either direction. Good shape
retention; cut edges don't curl.
Best use: Tailored garments, like jackets, suits,
or sheath dresses. If particular double knit has
some crosswise stretch, adjusting pattern (by
cutting it slightly smaller in body girth) may be
necessary.
Read
more: http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item
/4179/how-to-identify-knit-
fabrics#ixzz4nm4bMlQm
Follow us: @threadsmagazine on
Twitter | ThreadsMagazine on Facebook
◦ Warp knit fabrics
◦ 1. Raschel
◦ 2. Tricot
◦ 3. Crochet
Properties: Some lengthwise stretch; almost no
crosswise stretch. Usually soft and drapey; cut
edges tend to curl.
Best use: Besides traditional use for lining and
lingerie, can be used for blouses and dresses.
It's essential to assess stretch of particular
tricot for given project.
Read
more: http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item
/4179/how-to-identify-knit-
fabrics#ixzz4nm5RUnrk
Follow us: @threadsmagazine on
Twitter | ThreadsMagazine on Facebook

Non-Woven process
◦ Non-wovens are defined as fabric structures
produced directly from fibers by bonding or felting.
Therefore the yarn stage is skipped. Here, nothing is
processed on spindles, looms or knitting machines.
◦ There are two methods of non- wovens:
◦ 1. Bonding 2. Felting.

Bonding
◦ Bonded fabrics are made from webs of synthetic
fibres bonded together with heat or adhesives.
Artificial leather jacket Non-woven bag Non-woven interfacing

Felting
◦ Wool felt is made from wool fibres matted together
using moisture, heat and pressure. They have no
grain lines.
Hat
Coat
Fibres
Hat
Felt Fabric

Summary
◦ Fabrics can be made from various methods;
◦ Four methods of fabric construction are:
1. Weaving ( interlacing of threads)
2. Knitting (interlocking of loops)
3. Bonding ( web like structure stick together with heat & adhesives)
4. Felting (matted together with heat, moisture and pressure).
◦ Methods Weaving
1. Plain 2. Twill 3. Satin
◦ There two methods of knitting
1. Warp Knitting (Vertical direction)
2. Weft Knitting (horizontal direction)
◦ The two non woven methods are:
1. Bonding.
2. Felting

Assessment
What have you learn? Use a flow chart to show this.
Task- on the worksheet given:
1. Why are knitted garments considered appropriate for
winter wear?
2. Why is satin weave not as strong as plain or twill
weave?
3. Why is twill weave used for your jeans?
• Portfolio entry
◦ Mount and label a samples of fabrics made by each method.

Assessment cont’d
Personal research: What are nap fabrics and how are they produced?
https://www.thespruce.com/fabric-definition-of-nap-2978252
Online quiz: Please type the following to gain access. You have advised to redo
until you get perfect score. Enjoy
join.quizizz.com

THANK YOU
25CSEC- TCF Syllabus - Section 1: Fibres, Yarns and Fabrics
Wednesday, July 26,
2017

Methods of Fabric Construction

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