This document provides guidelines for applying eye makeup to correct different eye shapes and features. It discusses applying darker or lighter shadows and eyeliner in specific areas of the eye to minimize, highlight, or draw attention. Rules are given for wide-set, close-set, prominent, narrow, round, small, downward slanting, over-hanging, deep set, and oriental eye shapes. The goal is to use makeup techniques to modify the appearance of the eye shape as needed.

1. Corrective
Eye Make-Up
BTEC Beauty Therapy
Sciences

2. Remember the Rules
When applying eye make-up to correct the
eye shape you need to remember the basic
rules:
 Light colours highlight the area and draw
attention to it.
 Dark colours minimise and disguise, however
also add definition.
 Bright colours draw attention to the area.

3. Wide-Set Eyes
 Apply a dark matt colour
to the inner portion of
the upper eyelid.
 Apply lighter shadow to
the outer eyelid.
 Apply dark eyeliner to
the inner eyelid.
 Sweep eyelashes
upwards when applying
mascara.
 Do not pluck hairs from
the inner brow, extend
inwards with eyebrow
pencil.

4. Close-Set Eyes
 Highlight the inner
corner.
 Use a darker colour
at the outer corner.
 Apply eye liner to
outer corner of lids.
 Sweep eyelashes
outwards when
applying mascara.
 Pluck brow hairs from
the inner eyebrow.

5. Prominent Eyes
 Apply a dark matt
colour to the bulging
prominent portion
(centre) of the lid.
 Apply highlighter to
the brow bone.
 Apply a darker
shade to the outer
portion of the eye
and blend upwards.

6. Narrow Eyes  Apply darker shadow
above the natural crease
of the eyelid to give lift to
the eye.
 Do not extend
eyeliner/shadow
outwards.
 Apply highlighter in the
centre of the eyelid to
open up the eye.
 Apply mascara upwards.
 Remove hairs from outer
corner to shorten
eyebrows.

7. Round Eyes  Apply medium/dark
colour onto the eyelid
and then blend a
darker colour
outwards.
 Apply eyeliner to the
upper and lower outer
lids and draw
outwards.
 Sweep eyelashes
outwards.
 Produce angular
shaped eyebrows.

8. Small Eyes
 Apply a light base to the
eye area.
 Define slightly higher
than the natural crease
of the upper lid with a
dark colour.
 Highlight the brow bone.
 Create thin, arched
eyebrows to free space
to the eye area.

9. Downward Slanting Eyes
 Lift the appearance of
the eyes by applying a
medium/dark shadow
upwards and outwards at
the outer corner.
 Apply eyeliner to the
outer corner of the upper
lid.
 Apply mascara upwards
to the outer corners of the
upper lashes.
 Remove eyebrow hairs
from the outer edge to
produce a
straight/oblique shape.
Clare Hargreaves-Norris

10. Over-Hanging Lids
 Apply highlighter or
a bright colour to the
upper eyelids.
 Apply a dark
shadow to create a
higher, false crease
to the eye.
 Shape eyebrows to
produce a straight or
oblique eyebrow
shape.

11. Deep Set Eyes
 Apply a light base to
the upper eyelid.
 Apply a medium
colour to the upper
eye area and the
brow bone.
 Shape eyebrows to
a medium thickness.

12. Oriental Eyes
 Use a medium to dark
shadow to re-create the
socket line above the
natural socket line.
 Apply eyeliner to slightly
below the lower lash line,
smudge to soften and
do not extend outwards.
 Sweep lashes upwards
and use lash curlers if the
lashes are long enough.
 Brows should be shaped
to a gentle arch.