Garment technology

GARMENTENGINEERING
COSTCONCIOUSNESS
GARMENTTECHNOLOGY
SAMPLEROOM
SEWINGTECHNOLOGY
DESIGNDEPARTMENT
OPERATIONS
ByNistha Chandela
Two Year Diploma In Fashion Design
Confirming ToNSQF Level6 or NSDC
Dezyne E’coleCollege
www.dezyneecole.com

PROJECT REPORT ON
GARMENT TECHNOLOGY
SUMBITTED TO
DEZYNE E’COLE COLLEGE
Towards the partial fulfillment for award of Diploma in Fashion Technology as
Technical knowledge development of Garment Technology on Fashion Designer
Dezyne E’cole College
Address : 106/10, Civil Lines Ajmer
Contact: 2624679 / 9829024839
www.dezyneecole .com
2017-2018
Presented By
NISTHA CHANDELA
2 year Fashion Design Diploma
Conforming NSQF Level 6 VALIDATED BY NSDC &
MINISTRY SKILL DEVELOPMENT

Civil Lines, Ajmer
www.dezyneecole.com
This Project Of Ms. NISTHA CHANDELA Student Of 2nd Year Advance Diploma In Fashion Design, Confirming To NSQF
Level 6 Of NSDC Has Been Checked And Graded As ______________________________________________________
Thanking You
Principal
[Seal & Signature]

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
I am Nistha Chandela, student of Fashion designing department of Dezyne E’cole College would like
to express my gratitude to each and every person who has contributed in stimulating suggestions and
encouragement which really helped me to coordinate my project.
I also thank Dezyne E’cole College who provided insight and expertise that greatly assisted the
project. Also, A special thanks to m teachers, parents and colleagues who have supported me at every
step. Not to forget, the almighty who blessed me with good health because of which I worked more
efficiently and better.

SYNOPSIS
A no. of brands of fashion are operating in the market to provide to same to them. Industry work
on the lead time i.e. six months time is not paid attention to the dress created will not be in
fashion any more. The designer has probably visited overseas couture house to obtain
indications of the possible trends for the next season. Marketing and design put their heads
together and start formulating framework of the sample collection. Fabrics and trimmings are
selected & ordered & the designer start to prepare theme garments of the collection.
ashion Industry is a vast and huge industry that gaining popularity and increase intern day by
day. The economic status of the Indian youngsters is improving day by day boys and girls are
very conscious.F
The designer also has to take into account the many technical & commercial factors involved. So
when designs have been approved & materials delivered, the design team has to start becoming
very involved with the production of sample garments. Clothing technology is a broad based
subject because it combines a number of individual technologies, with each making a specialized
contribution to the production of clothing. For all practical purposes the sample room is the
research & development department of a clothing factory & one of the technical subjects which
has to be examined is cutting. Before a sample garment can be mass produced its practicality &
efficiency as regards cutting have to be ensured, is irresponsible to present the cutting room with
unresolved problems. The most important materials used for nearly every item of outerwear has
no sales appeal , because it is invisible to consumer. This material is the fusible interlining &
since these materials were first introduced in the early 1950s, they have become an integral
component of garment construction.

In every sector of the clothing industry, sewing operations are performed by a great variety of machine
each of which has the capability for specific operations on a particular category of garments and or
fabric. This wide choices of sewing threads, needles & other auxiliary components. While seeing all
these content the pressing is also gain a important factor in garment industry. Pressing can be defined as
a process which changes the geometric fibre structure of the being pressed by the controlled application
of heat, steam & pressure. In this sense, removing a crease from a garment involves the same change of
fibre lay as that required to open as seam or to press a hem. Finishing & inspection are the last two
major operations in the manufacture of garments before they are bagged or boxed and delivered to the
finished goods ware house. In most factories are follows these two operations which are performed by
separate departments.
In factories, production units work on bulk and according to pre-planned production processes &
inspection routines. Production operators specialize in relatively small operations. With nearly every
operation performed on a machine or item of equipment constructed expressly for the purpose. The
work flow is balanced and, all things being equal, these factory units operate with a consistent rhythm.
In its own way the sample room also manufactures clothing but its production is strongly characterized
by the intermittent nature of its working.
In design department operation the most important thing is to communicate each other with the help of the
specification sheet. All this communication is in between the sample room & the design department
through specification sheet. The communication of information is an integral part of day - to - day
working routine in the design department. Although management is essential for all organized activity &
regardless of size the design department is no exception.

C N E TTO N S
COST CONSCIOUSNESS
• The Designer & Garment Costs
• Patter Cutting & Material utilisation
• Garment Trimmings
GARMENT TECHNOLOGY
• Introduction to Garment Technology
•Sample Cutting
•The principles of Fusing Technology
• The principles of Sewing Technology
•The principles of Pressing Technology
•Garment Finishes & Inspection
•The Sample Room
DESIGN DEPARTMENT OPERATION
• Communication
•Management & Organisation

Garment design does not exist in vacuum but is
the end product of a chain of activities which can
be said to start with production of textiles. The
internal chain starts with the marketing
department doing some formal or informal
market research to evaluate what the market
sector served by the company could be looking
for and at what prices.
Marketing and put their heads together and start
formulating the framework of the sample
collection. Fabrics and trimmings are selected
and ordered and the designer starts to prepare the
core designs which will represent the central
theme garments of the collection. Core designs,
when approved, will be the basis for developing
planned groups of variations. The pre-sales
design room process is followed.
GARMENT ENGINEERING : INTRODUCTION
So garment design becomes goal directed planning because apart from developing the appeal factors of each design,
the designer also has to take into account the many technical and commercial factors involved. So when designs have
been approved and materials delivered, the design team has to start becoming very involved with the production of
sample garments.

COST CONSCIOUSNESS
GARMENT COSTING
CHAPTER – 1

Cost consciousness is a step towards the
production of the creation by a Fashion Designer.
So all these are influenced by the combination of
two factors: Market specialization and The average
garment concept. This linking provides the
designer with a reasonably accurate basis for
initial cost estimates.
Market specialization is all about the sectors in
which a market is divided which makes a designer
to view a market in a completely different way. For
example, sectors are divided according to garment
types and subsections are primarily based on prize.
And as far as average garment concept is
concerned it is very widely used because of the
production commonalities which exist between
garments of the same type.
COST CONSCIOUSNESS
GARMENT COSTING
The garment costing which is also known as bill of materials includes the garment costing details, the cost of every
item attributable to the production of a particular garment. The sum of these costs plus the profit margin is the selling
price which the company will quote to customers. Whilst each company has its own method of preparing costing,
generally all components of a costing are grouped under four headings: Direct materials, direct labors, factory overhead
(indirect labor + Expenses + indirect materials = 120% of direct labor) and last but not the least General overhead (45%
of all other costs).

PRE-SALES DESIGN ROOM PROCESS
MarketingDesign
Indications Of Trends Market Research
Exchange Of Ideas
First Collection Plan
Materials Selection
Material Orders
Receipt Of Materials
Core Designs
Approval Of Core Designs
Production Core Samples
Trial Costing
Approval Of Core
Samples
Customer Contact
Agents/Reps
Fashion Shows
Extension Of Core Designs
Produce Collection
Final Costing Review Of Collections
Marketing Program
Sales

The cost sheet shown below is a sample cost sheet. This cost sheet is made using MS Excel with all the formulae
applied to calculate total cost of the garment.
THE COST SHEET

PATTERN CUTTING AND MATERIAL UTILISATION
CHAPTER – 2

Over the years various researchers have established that approximately 85% of the material purchased are in the
finished garment, with the remainder for one reason or another ending as waste. This figure is called the material
utilization percentage and it is a crucial cost factor in the price of a garment. A pattern cutter cannot personally prevent
excess material usage in cutting room, there are a number of procedures which can be employed to ensure that the
garment pattern makes the minimum possible demands on materials requirements. These procedures are grouped
together under the heading of pattern engineering. The overall objectives of pattern engineering are to improve the
utilization factor of a garment pattern through prudent modifications which do not degrade the design integrity. A line
has to be drawn between the enhancement of materials utilization and maintenance of the design objectives. Major
modifications in a pattern includes front with extended facing, side seam displacement, two piece inverted pleat and
splitting a one piece sleeve.
Seams are important to be considered in the utilization part as many of these ensures the finishing of a garment. The
most important properties of a seam are strength and flexibility. There are three elements of seam, lateral strength,
handling and visual control. There are seams used to stitch hems also. This refers to the turn ups on the lower
extremities of body garments, skirts, trousers and sleeves, etc.
Facings, fusible and lining are also very important part to be considered in material utilization as 0.1” of difference in
cutting can make a big difference in the material utilized.
Last but not the least, computerized cutting, in which bulk work are to be cut by a CAM system, the patterns used for
all materials should have a small modifications made to their external corners in order to slightly reduce cutting time
which is a part of material utilization as time is also to be utilized in a proper way.
COST CONSCIOUSNESS
PATTERN CUTTING AND MATERIAL UTILISATION

MATERIAL UTLIZATION
MAJOR MODIFICATIONS
Original Modified
(A) Front with extended facing
Reduce Increase
(B) Side Seam Displacement
Original Modified Original Modified
(C) Two Piece Inverted Pleat (D) Splitting A One Piece
Sleeve
Material utilisation percentage is a crucial cast
factor in the price of a garment . These
procedures are grouped together under the
heading of pattern engineering.
PATTERN ENGINEERING:
The overall objectives of pattern engineering
are to improve the utilisation factor of a
garment pattern through prudent modifications
which do not degrade the design integrity.
MAJOR MODIFICATIONS:
These modifications could include seam
displacements slight reductions in flare,
splitting very large components, separate
instead of extended facings, etc. some of the
examples are as following.

MATERIAL UTLIZATION
SEAMS
The most important properties of seams are
strength and flexibility and these are determined
by number of technical factors plus the
characteristics of the fabric and the width of the
seam allowance.
This width combines three important elements:
1. LATERAL STRENGTH: In this context,
strength refers to the ability of the seam the
withstand reasonable pressure at angles to its
length.
2. HANDLING: For operator controlled
seaming there has to be an adequate margin
between the right hand side of the pressure
foot and the edge of the seam being sewn.
3. VISUAL CONTROL: For operator controlled
seaming there has to be an adequate margin
between the right hand side of the pressure
foot and the edge of the seam being sewn.
Sewing
Pressed Open
Seam Width
Pressure Foot
Edge Of
Foot
Margin
Lateral Strength
Handling
Visual
Control

MATERIAL UTLIZATION
SEAMS
LAP FELLED SEAM:
Commonly used for jeans and similarly styled garments, the seam
allowance is determined by the needle gauge of the machine to be
used.
Seam allowance: 1.5 (needle gauge)+ 1 mm
Turned Over
Sewing
Lap Felled Seam
Needle Gauge
EDGES:
These are enclosed seams which are typically used for the edges of
collars, lapels and flaps, etc. For profile or jig-sewing a seam width of
5 mm is used, and for operator controlled edge sewing 6 mm. in both
cases, if the sewing machine also has an edge trimming action, an
additional 2 mm is necessary.

MATERIAL UTLIZATION
SEAMS
TOP STITCHED SEAM:
The two elements which determine the sewing allowances for
these seams are the width of the top stitching and the thickness
of the material.
Margin is the width of top stitching plus 2 or 3 mm.
Top stitch on light weight materials Top stitch on heavy weight materials
Allowance and Assembly
Top Stitch

Hems refers to the turn ups on the lower extremities of body
garments, skirts, trousers and sleeves etc. and the same
consideration apply to both the top clothing and lining.
Different garment types have varying requirements as regards
acceptable hem widths and the general industrial practice is:
Body Garments- Outerwear and light clothing: Garment
hems= 4cm, sleeve hems= 3.5-4cm.
Trousers and skirts- outerwear and light clothing: 3.5cm
Woven blouses and shirt: gross 1.2cm
Cut Knits: cut knits have standard single turn, are overlocked.
Linings:
Sewn Hems: The allowance for sewn lining hems is derived
directly from the hem width of the body lining.
Open Hems: These are mostly used for flared garments.
MATERIAL UTLIZATION
HEMS
Turn in allowance Finished Hem
Turn in allowance Finished Hem
Hem Allowance Finished Hem

For practical purposes, the width of a front facing depends to a large
extent on the direction of the buttonholes in relation to the front
edge. There are 2 standard directions:
1. Vertical: Where the buttonholes are parallel to the front edge.
2. Horizontal: Where the buttonholes are at the right angle to the
front edge.
The details which have to be taken into account when calculating
the width of the lower section:
1. The distance between the eye of the buttonhole and the front
edge is equal to ½ the diameter of the button plus 5-6 mm.
2. The length of the buttonhole is based on the diameter and
thickness of the button.
Label: If a label is position on the neck piece, the width of the neck
piece has to be sufficient to contain the label plus a small margin all
around. Thus the total net width of the neck piece provides the start
of the inside edge line which runs down to the lower section. A net
back piece width of 4cm is sufficient for most purposes.
MATERIAL UTLIZATION
FACING

Linings are also an important cost component and whilst the potential for pattern modifications is limited, there are
some minor procedures which can enhance the utilization of materials.
Skirt Lining: Skirt lining patterns are positioned in cutting markers according to the warp grain line of the material.
Body Lining: Body linings can be modified by displacing the seams and this can be done in 3 different ways:
1. From 0 at the armhole to 3cm at the hem.
2. From 0 at the hem to 3cm at the armhole
3. Displacing the entire length of the side seam up to 3cm in either direction.
MATERIAL UTLIZATION
LINING
Knee Length Lining
Seat Lining

Sleeve Lining: Patterns for sleeve lining allows the simple modifications which are as following:
Joins: Joins in the width of a sleeve lining are necessary in order to prevent excessive waste.
Seam Displacement: In sleeves seam displacement is done in following different ways:
1. Displacing the hind arm seams to increase the width of the top sleeve cuff and decrease that of the under sleeve or
vise versa.
2. Decreasing the head width of the top sleeve and increasing the width of the related section of the under sleeve.
3. Displacing the hind arm seam for their whole length.
MATERIAL UTLIZATION
SLEEVE LINING

Computerized Cutting: Computerized cutting can lead
to excessive material wastage. As the cutting blade of a
computer controlled cutting head cannot turn through a
sharp corner without disturbing a small area of the
surrounding material.
MATERIAL UTLIZATION
COMPUTERIZED CUTTING
Consequently, most CAM
systems use the following
sequence for cutting corners:
1. The first converging line of
corner is cut to its end.
2. The blade is then
automatically lifted out of
the spread and swiveled to
the required angle.
3. It is then plunged back into
the second convergent line
of the corner.
The pattern cutter should try to anticipate the possible
problems regarding materials usage and should
incorporate the solutions when preparing the pattern and
not when the pattern is being used to prepare a cutting
marker. For example, rounding off external corners of a
paper pattern as illustrated.

In total all the trimmings used for a garment can be a substantial cost item and so their selection and use require careful
consideration. There is no point in improving materials utilization if the savings made thrown away by using a zip
which is two or three centimeters longer than necessary or by using expensive tapes as stay tapes. The professional
approach is: sufficient for the intended purpose but no more.
There are two types of garment trimmings: primary and secondary. Primary includes the linings. Garment linings have
functional and consumer appeal objectives. Selecting linings for a garment totally depends on the practicalities.
Secondary trimmings includes closures (buttons, hooks and eyes, hooks and bars, press studs, rivets, zips, Velcro, etc.)
shoulder pads are also included in secondary trimmings.
Garment trimmings have relatively critical functions in the make up of garments and whilst price is important, so is
performance. There are good reasons why some trimmings are seemingly cheap, and their use without prior testing can
sometimes result in an expensive boomerang effect.
COST CONSCIOUSNESS
GARMENT TRIMMINGS

GARMENT TRIMMINGS
n total of all the trimmings used for
garment can be substantial cost itemI& so their selection & use require careful
consideration. There is no point in
improving material utilization if the saving
made are thrown away by using a zip
which is 2-3cm longer than necessary or
by using expensive tapes. The professional
approach is: sufficient for the intended
purpose but no more
 LININGS:
 Fabrics types & properties
 Viscose {made from cellulose}
 Rayon {artificial silk}
 Polyamide {excellent tensile strength &
high degree of elasticity}
 Polyester {tendency to soften & high
melting point}

Garment linings have a no. of functional
purposes besides their main one. These
other functions include:
• Linings have a sheer surface.
• Linings help to preserve the shape of
skirts & trousers loosely constructed or
stretchy materials.
• Garments such as, dresses, skirts &
trousers made from diaphanous
material.
• Some types of outerwear materials have
tendency to cling to the body & this can
spoil the silhouette of garment.
• Linings are used to assist formation of
design features on garments. Ex-
difference in lengths between the body
shell & body linings creates the blouson
effect.
 Function & Consumer Appeal :
 Functions  Consumer appeal
An important factor of consumer appeal is to
present a garment whose inside has an attractive
appearance.
• Taffeta : A crisp fabric woven with a warp
pattern which produces a shiny surface.
• Crepe : Made from specially processed
yarns, mostly viscose acetate, finished surface
of this lining & uniformly crinkled
appearance.
• Satin (sateen) : Smooth & highly lustrous
surface & a dull back. Satin is the name of a
weave pattern & all cotton fabrics that were
constructed with this pattern were called
sateen.
Crepe
SatinTaffeta

econdary
rimmings
S
T
 CLOSURES –
More garments require some form of working parts to open & close them & those parts
which are not attached to the garment during its production have to be added in the finishing
process.
Secondary
Trimmings
CLOSURES
Buttons
Utilitarian Decorative
Hooks & Eyes
Hooks &
Bars
Press studs Rivets Zips
Regular zip Invisible zip Separated zip
Continuous
zip
Velcro
Shoulder Pads Tapes
Decorative
Stretch
control
Finishing
Cups Laces

 Buttons :-
Buttons are the most widely used closures for
all type clothing. Buttons have been made
from wood, precious metals & ceramics, many
of which are collectors items today.
• Utilitarian :- This refer to buttons which
are used to open & close garments. Ex- hip
pocket on trousers or the patch pocket on a
safari- styled garment
• Decorative :- these are buttons which have
a decorative function & one of the most
common forms is on double-breasted
garments.

 Hooks & Eyes :-
This is a relatively simple closure system which is
widely used for zip openings on dresses & blouses
made from light-weight materials.
 Hooks & Bars :-
These are metal closures which are used for trouser
& skirt waist bands.
Hooks & BarHooks & Eye

 Press Studs :-
These can be made from plastic or metal & consist
of two working parts, the male & female, which are
locked together.
 Rivets :-
Whilst these are not closure parts, they are widely
used for decorative & reinforcement purpose on
denim garments. It require an appropriate device to
set them on device.
RivetsPress Studs

 Zips :-
Zips are a continuous form of closure as
against buttons which are intermittent. Zips
have become one of the most extensively used
closure methods utilized by the clothing
industry. Apart from their functional purposes,
zips are also used for decorative effects or as a
design features.
 Zips types :-
• Regular type
• Invisible zip
• Separated zip
• Continuous zip

This is one kind of trimming which is use
open & close of special parts of garments.
 Purpose :
ZIPPER
 Functional
Functional purpose of zipper is as part of a
garment here zipper is used to open & close
the openings.
 Decorative purpose
Where zipper is used as a decorative purpose,
it inches the beauty of germens.
 Uses
In making trousers & jackets , chain or zipper
is in essential component which is used to
open or close of special parts of garments.

 Regular type :-
Used in different lengths for skirts, dresses & other
articles of clothing. This zip is usually inserted into
a seam & whilst the zip is concealed, the setting
stitching shows on the outside of the garment
 Invisible zip :-
So called because the zip & its setting stitching
cannot be seen on the right side of the opening. The
insertion of this zip requires a special type of
presser foot & the setting operations itself is shorter
& easier than for a regular zip.
 Separated zip :-
This type of zip is utilized when the garment can be
worn either closed or fully opened. Some typical
application of separated zips are for blousons,
parka jackets & zip-out linings.
 Continuous zip
:-
Continuous metal zips are cheaper in use than those
made to specific lengths as they can be cut to the
exact lengths required & there is no need to
maintain regular stocks of different lengths.
picture
picture
picture

 Velcro :-
They consist of two nylon pile tapes, one
having a surface of loops & the other surface
of microscopic hooks. When the two pile
surfaces are pressed together, the hooks
engage the loops creating a closure area the
size of the tapes. The closure is opened by
pulling the two tapes apart.
 Shoulder Pads :-
Padding in various forms & on different
locations of the body has been used for
clothing for about 3000 years, & during the
past 100 years or so pads have become a
standard shaping medium for the shoulder
line. Pads can be made from foam layers of
non-woven materials around a central foam or
fibre layer. For unlined garments a pad
covered with polyamide or self material is
generally used, & for lined garments there is
no necessity to cover the pad.

 Tapes :-
These are narrow bands of woven fabric which
are used for the following purposes in the
make-up of clothing :
• Decorative – For binding the edges of
collars, lapels & flaps etc.
• Stretch control – To prevent seams or edges
from stretching during making – up.
• Finishing – sometimes used instead of
overlocking on visible seam & hem edges.
Flat Tape Double Turned Tape
Bound Edges
Stay Tape On Armhole And
Shoulder

INTRODUCTION TO
GARMENT TECHNOLOGY
CHAPTER – 3

INTRODUCTION TO
GARMENT TECHNOLOGY
echnology has been defined as a technical
method of achieving a practical purpose,Tbut its original Greek root meaning is the
systematic treatment of an art. Clothing
technology is a broad based subject
because it combines a no. of individual
technologies, with each making a
specialized contribution to the production
of clothing. Designer & pattern cutter,
these technologies can be divided into two
groups :
 Need to know : The technologies
which are directly related to the work
of designers & pattern cutters.
 Good to know : This groups covers
the other technologies which are part of
a modern clothing factory but are not
of direct concern for designing &
pattern cutting.
 Background
Clothing technology has a long history
which could be said to have started with the
discovery of the needle about 18000BC.
Individual garments were made & all the
operations involved were executed by hand
with the aid of some very primitive tools.
During these times, a typical workshop
would consist of the master-craftsman.

There are two categories of machine :
• Domestic
• Industrial
Domestic Industrial
• This machine are use for domestic use personal.
• Domestic machine are small in size, low speed &
easy to use.
• Domestic machines are given only 1500 stitches
per minute.
• Domestic make a zigzag, straight & many more
stitches.
• Pressure foot operated manually using a liver at a
back of the needle bath.
• In this seam width are marked in the throat plate.
• Manual oiling is done in domestic machines.
• This machine are use for industries & for mass
level.
• It’s our very larger, faster more variety, more
function, more complicated this there size & cost.
• Industrial machine are given 3000-600 per
minute.
• Industrial machines only make a straight stitches.
• The pressure foot raised & lower with a knee
lifter is on foot pedal.
• But no seam width marked on a throat plate in
industry machine.
• Automatic lubrications is done in the industrial
machine.

Inventors of Sewing Machine
Year Name of Inventor Features
• Thomas Saint
• Joseph Madersperger
• Barthelme Thimonier
• Walter hunt
• Wooden Machine.
• Leather, canvas working machine.
• Straight seams, chain stitch.
• Lock stitch machines (needle
horizontal moves.)
• Needle moves vertically similar to
Walter hunt.
• Invent foot pedal electrical.
• 1790
• 1807-1814
• 1830
• 1832
• Elias Haws
• Isaac Singer

History & Development of the Sewing Machines
• In 1791, British Inventor Thomas Saint was the first to patent a design for a sewing
machine. His machine was meant to be used on leather & canvas.
• In 1814, an Austrian Tailor, named Joseph Madersperger presented his first sewing
machine.
•In 1830, a French tailor, Barthelemy Thimonnier, presented a sewing machine that sewed
straight seams by using chain sewing machines.
•The lock stitch sewing machine was invented by Walter Hunt in 1833.
•Elias Howe patented his machine in 1845; using similar method of Hunt’s.
•Issac Merritt Singer, invented rotary sewing machine in 1851. This machine combined the
elements of Thimonnier,s , Hunt’s & Howe’s machine.
•Allen Wilson & John Bradshaw had developed a sewing machine, which was an
improvement over Singer’s & Howe’s

Before the invention of the sewing
machine, most sewing was done by
individuals in their homes, however,
many people offered services as
tailors or seamstresses in small shops
where wages were very low.
Sewing machines

Several Inventors attempt to
improve sewing
 The English inventor & cabinet
maker, Thomas Saint was issued the
first patent for a complete machine
for sewing in 1790.
 The patent describes an awl that
punched a hole in leather & passed a
needle through the hole. Later
reproduction of Saint’s invention
based on his patent drawings did not
work.

Barthelemy Thimonnier – First
Functional machine & A Riot
 The first functional sewing
machine was invented by the French
tailor, Barthelemy Thimonnier, in
1830.
 Thimonnier’s machine used only
one thread & a hooked needle that
made the same chain stitch used with
embroidery.
 The inventor was almost killed by
an enraged group of French tailors
who burnt down his garment factory
because they feared unemployment
as a result of his new invention.

Walter Hunt & Elias Howe
 In 1834, Walter Hunt America’s
first ( somewhat) successful sewing
machine.
He later lost interest in patenting
because he believed his invention
would cause unemployment.
( Hunt’s machine could only sew
straight steams). Hunt never patented
& in 1846, the first American patent
was issued to Elias Howe for “ a
process that used thread from two
different sources.”

Isaac Singer vs Elias Howe –
Patent Wars
 Sewing machines did not go into
mass production until the 1850’s,
when Isaac Singer built the first
commercially successful machine.
Singer built the first sewing
machine where the needle moved up
& down rather than the side-to-side
& the needle was powered by a foot
treadle.

Off the Arm Bed Cylindrical Bed Long Arm Flat Bed
Over Edging Machine
Flat Bed Semi- Submerged Bed Raised Bed Post Bed

SAMPLE CUTTING
he sample room is the research &
development department of a clothingTfactory, & one of the technical subjects which
has to be examined is cutting. Before a sample
garment can be mass- produced its practical &
efficiency as regards cutting have to be
ensured; it is irresponsible to present the
cutting room with unresolved problems.
 PREPARATION FOR CUTTING attern
abric
P
F
&
There are four preparatory processes :-
 The pattern – As a medium of
communication & as a production tool.
 Grain lines – Establishing the linear
relationship between the garment pattern
& the cloth.
 Pile direction – How this influence
pattern component arrangements.
 Fabric pattern – what has to be taken
into account.

The pattern is the primary link between
design & production & so must
communicate accurately with all the
functions that have to use the pattern.
Functions are pattern grading , marker
planning & sewing, information is
conveyed by numbers, marks, nips &
notches, etc. There should be a pattern For
every component to be cut. Each pattern
part must be marked on both sides with
grain lines & directions indicator.
Patterns for asymmetrical garments should be
prepared for positioning :
Pattern pairing methodsEvery pattern piece must be clearly
identified as regards style number,
garment type, the material for which the
pattern is intended & the no. of
components in a set for a particular
material, i.e. cloth, lining & fusible. A
simple & standard method is to use a
rubber stamp.
Style number
Comp. number
Garment type
Size
Home
Export
Material
Piece in set
Component
6108
EJ 41 0 6B
Jacket
42R
Lining
6
Back
GERLIN FASHIONS LTD.
 THE PATTERN

 GRAIN LINES
This refer to the positioning of pattern
components in relation to the true length
of the fabric.
As a general guide, the grain lines for
main components are :
• Fronts
• Backs
• Sleeves
• Lapel facings
• Patch pockets
• Inset pockets
• Top collars
• Under collars
• Other parts
Examples of grain line marks (P= parallel to)
 PILE DIRECTION
• One - way
• Two - way
• No - pile
Pile direction describes the lay (direction),
length & density of the protruding fibres
on the surface of the right side of the cloth.
All fabrics have a pile factor :-
Direction

 FABRIC PATTERN
1. One -way :- Pattern form dictates that
the garment patterns for every dictates
that the garment patterns for every
size in the cutting marker must be
positioned in one direction only.
2. Two-way :- Pattern form has a
definite direction but it is not
sufficiently dominant to warrant one-
way only positioning.
3. Non-directional :- Pattern form has
no definite directions & subject to the
pile factor pattern components for one
size can be positioned for one size can
be positioned in either length
direction.
PILE FABRIC
Fabric pattern refers to the form of the right side
of the cloth, and has three aspects:
Two-Way
One-Way
Non-Directional

The lay(direction), length and density of the protruding
fibers on the surface of the right side of the cloth. The
question regarding pile is to what extent in influences
the positioning of pattern components on the cloth
whilst observing the grain line markings. All fabrics
have a pile factor and for practical purposes they can be
grouped under three headings:
1. One-way : On these fabrics there is a prominent
pile which lays in one direction only. Typical
examples of this type of cloth are, corduroy, velvet
and mohair.
2. Two-way : this type of cloth is one of the most
widely used in the clothing industry because the
pile factor allows for higher utilization than one
way fabrics.
3. No-pile : This refers to materials which have a
vertically negligible pile factor. This enables
components for one size to be positioned in
opposite directions.
SAMPLE CUTTING
PILE DIRECTION
One-way
Two-way
Markers for one-way pile fabric
Markers for two-way pile fabric

SAMPLE CUTTING
MARKER PLANING
To cut a sample garment, the pattern components have to be economically arranged according to their grain lines and
pile direction of the fabric which is to be cut. The regular form of this arrangement is a rectangle with the short side
equivalent to the net width of the fabric and the long side the length required to contain the pattern components. The
drawing of this arrangement is a cutting marker .
Net Width : This is sometimes called the cutable width and both terms refers to the width remaining after the
measurements of the two selvedges have been deducted from the gross width of the fabric.
Net Width
Length

 PRINCIPLES OF MARKER PLANNING
• Manual planning
• Computer aided marker
planning
• Marker making

CHECKS & STRIPES
When planning to make sample garments in
checked or striped materials, the designer has to
consider whether the intended designs are
suitable for the selected materials.
Fabric with a strong pattern is usually the
dominant design feature of a garment 7 in effect,
it is the fabric which is being sold & not seaming
& decoration.
 CHECKS
Cutting these materials has to combine the
matching of both the warp & weft patterns. The
size of the warp & weft pattern repeats are the
determining factors. Facing and top collarTop collar and back collar
Majority of garments are symmetrical it follows
that the pattern of a material should be a
positioned symmetrical on the garment. The
objective of symmetrical positioning is to make
sure that there is correspondence of the cloth
patter on opposite sides of the garment, i.e. front
to front, lapel to lapel, pocket to pocket.
 SYMMETRY
Symmetry

The Principles Of Fusing Technology
CHAPTER – 5

The Principles of Fusing Technology
n garment industry fusing is also used as
interlining. fusing is a trimming which is usedIto enhance the quality and finishing in a garment as a
student of designing we need to understand the types
and characters of fusing. The term fusible interlining
is used to describe a base fabric coated on one side
with a thermoplastic adhesive resin which can be
bonded to another fabric by the controlled application
of heat & pressure.
 Construction of Fusibles
• Base material – Also called the substrate.
• Thermoplastic resins – Synthetic resins
which melt when subjected to heat & revert
to their original solid state when cooled.
• Coating – The amount of resin deposited
& how it is secured on to the base fabric.
fusible
resin
Substrate ( base material )
Top cloth
The components
The laminate
Fusing

The base materials are produced in a diversity
of woven knitted and nonwoven forms. Base
cloths influence the characteristics of the
finished garment :-
• Handle and bulk
• Shape retention
• Shrinkage control
• Crease recovery
• Appearance after washing of dry clean
• Durability
 Base Materials
Non woven substrates
Knitted substrates
Woven substrates

 Resins
Resins are the bonding agent which is used between the base material and top cloth. Different
resins conform the following conditions :-
Cleanability – the adhesive properties of the resin
have to be sufficiently strong to withstand washing
or dry clean throughout the normal life of the
garment.
Handle – the resin must contribute to the required
handle and not act as an unwanted stiffening agent
on the final laminate.
Upper Limit Temperature – the resin become
viscous at a temperature below that which would
damage the top cloth. The temperature varies
according to the composition of top cloth, it rarely
exceed 175⁰ C.
Lower limit temperature – this is the lowest
temperature at which the resin starts to become
viscous, this is about 110⁰ C.

 Coating
Aspects of
Coating
Density
Coating
System
Density – resin are applied to substrates in three
different densities – low, medium and high the
degree of density refers to the actual mass per
unit volume of the resin material.
Coating system – this refers to the process
whereby the resin is deposited and secured on the
substrate. There are three principle methods :-
• Scatter coating
• Dry dot printing
• Preformed
In this method resin is
printed on to substrate in
regularly spaced dots. This
method is generally use to
produce the most flexible
bond.
This method uses
electronically controlled
scattering heads to deposit
the resin crystals on to the
moving substrate.
This reduces the flexibility
of the laminate.
The resin is heat processed
to form a net which is then
bonded onto the substrate by
heat and pressure. This
method is also used to
produce paper backed tapes.
Scatter
coating
Dry dot
printing
Perfor-
med
Scatter Coating
Dry Dot Printing Performed

Temperature -
there is a limited range of temperatures that are
effective for each type of resin.
• Too high temperature causes the resin to
become viscous.
• If temperature is too low the resin is not
sufficiently viscous to disburse into the top
cloth.
Generally resin melt temperatures range from
130⁰ – 160⁰ C.
Time –
The only time element of any value during the
fusing process is when the top cloth and fusible
are under pressure in the heating zone of the
machine. This time cycle for a particular
fusible is determined by : -
• Whether the fusible has a high of low melt
resin
• If a light of heavy substrate is being used
• The nature of the top cloth being used
 Fusing process
Pressure –
When the resin is viscous pressure is applied to the
top cloth and fusible assembly to ensure that :-
• Full contact is made between the top cloth and
fusible
• Heat transfer is at the optimum level
• There is am even penetration of the viscous
resin into the fibers of the top cloth.

Resin Type
Fusing System Durability
Relative Cost
Steam Electric Wash Dry Clean
Polyethylene
(low density)
Limited Good Suitable Limited Low
Polyethylene
(high density)
Non
recommen
ded
Good Good Good Medium
Polyamides Good Good Limited Good High
Polyester Good Good Limited Good Medium
Plasticized C.A. Good Good Suitable Suitable Medium
Phenolic Limited Good Limited Suitable Medium

The Principles Of Sewing Technology
CHAPTER – 6

The Principles of Sewing Technology
n every sector of the clothing industry,
sewing operations are performed by aIgreat variety of machines, each of which has
the capability for specific operations o a
particular category of garments &/ or fabric.
Sewing
threads
Feed dogs
Presser foot
Throat
plate
Needles
COMPONENTS OF SEWING

 Needles
Needles have been used for hand sewing since about
18000 BC & were originally made from ivory, bone,
wood& horn. Today the steel needle in common use
is a precision product which is a critical to the
formation of stitches.
Needle construction features:-
• Butt
• Shank
• Shoulder
• Blade
• Grooves
• Eye
• Point
• Tip
Points & tips have a decisive bearing on the
performance of the needle & the various types of
combinations ca be divided into two groups :-
Needle tip
Round
point
Cutting
points

 SIZE
This is based on the diameter of the blade
multiplied by 100. ex- needle with a blade
diameter of 0.9 mm would be size Nm 90.
Although needle lengths for each type of
machine are standardised, longer needles are
sometimes used to increase the clearance
between the end of the needle bar & the work
being sewn.

NEEDLE
THROAT
PLATE
PRESSURE
FOOT
SEWING
THREAD

Thread types
OTHER THREAD TYPES
•Mono- filament ‘Invisible’ Thread
•Embroidery Thread
•Elastic Thread
•Specialty – Lurex, Indigo
•Locked Filament Thread
•Glow in the Dark

Property/
type
Sewability Durability Strength Suppleness Abrasion
resistance
Heat
resistance
Colour
fastness
Shrinkage
resistance
Elasticity
Cotton High Moderate Moderate High Moderate Good High Moderate Good
Soft
Cotton
High Moderate Moderate Good Moderate Good Good Low Good
Glace
Cotton
High Moderate Moderate Good Good Good Good Moderate Good
Mercerise
-d
Cotton
High Moderate High Good High Moderate Good High Good
Polyester Moderate High High Good High Moderate Good High Good
Polyamid
-e (nylon)
Moderate High High Good High Good Good High Moderate
Polyester
Cotton
High High High High Good Good Moderat
e
High Good
Properties of Sewing Threads

 Feed system
Feed systems relate to the combination of the
needle, throat plate, presser foot & feed dogs
which control the feed of the material from
stitch to stitch whilst regulating the
relationship between the piles being sewn.
Drop feed Compound
feed
Unison feed

F
THE PRINCIPLES OF SEWING TECHNOLOGY
STITCHES
The basic classes in British Standard 3870 Part 1
are :
Class 100 : These are chain stitches formed from a
needle thread only. There are following three sub-
classes :
Class 101 : One Thread Basting
Class 103 : One Thread Felling for Hemming
Class 104 : One Thread Blind stitch for Hemming.
Class 200 : Originally, hand stitches, these are
mostly formed by single threads passed from one
side of the material to the other with each
successive penetration of the needle. There are
following sub-classes :
Class 202 : Saddle Stitch
Class 205 : Prick Stitch
Class 300 : These are also referred to as lock stitches because the top and under groups of threads are interlaced to
form the stitch. There are following sub-classes :
Class 301 : Two Threads Seams Multiple Plies
Class 304 : Two Thread Zig Zag Stitch, A Stretch Lockstitch
Class 306 : Two Thread Blind Stitch
Class 315 : Two Thread “Three Step Zig Zag”, A Stretch Lockstitch With More Stretch
Stitch Type 301 : Two-thread Lock Stitch

STITCHES
Class 400 : Multi-thread chain stitch uses one or more
needle threads and one or more looper thread stitch. Sub-
classes are as following :
Class 401 : Two Threads Seams Multiple Plies With
Moderate Stretch
Class 404 : Two Thread Topstitching or Seaming With
Stretch
Class 406 : There Threads “ Bottom Cover Stitch , A
Greater Stretch Chain stitch
Class 500 : These are known as over edge stitches because
at least one group of threads covers the edge of the
material. Following are the sub-classes :
Class 501 : One Thread One Needle Over Edge Stitch For Serging/ “Blanket Stitch”
Class 502 : Two Thread One Needle Over Edge Stitch For Serging
Class 503 : Two Thread Over Edge Stitch For Serging With Crossover On Edge Of The Fabric
Class 504 : Multiple (Three Thread) Over Edge Chain Stitch Using Needle Threads And Looper Threads. This is used
for assembling light weight knits and also for finishing hems.
Five Thread Safety Stitch : When the 401 chain stitch and the 504 overlock stitch are sewn simultaneously they form
what is called a five thread sfety stitch where the chain and overlock stiches are not connected. This stitch combination
is widely used to stitch denim and cheaper grade trousers.
Stitch Type 401 : Two-thread Chain Stitch

STITCHES
Mock Safety Stitch : It is formed from four thread
where one or two of the overlock threads interlace with
the needle thread. It is used for Garments of light
weight materials or for linings. It cannot be pressed
open due to its construction.
Class 600 : There are many complex stitch formations
in this class because the stitches can be formed from
three to nine threads and uses up to four needles. Sub-
calsses are as following :
Class 602 : Four Thread Cover Stitch Or Seaming
Knits
Class 605 : Five Thread Cover Stitch Or Butt-seams
Class 607 : Six Thread With Cover Stitch Or Butt-
seams
Class 700 : This is a single thread lock stitch similar to class 300, which has very limited applications because of its
inherent weakness. Sub-class is as following :
Class 701 : One Thread Typical Uses Lockstitch Tacking
Class 800 : This class covers combinations of two or more stitch classes which are sewn simultaneously, like the five
thread safety stitch. Different variations of this class are used for the assembly of swim wear.
Flat Butted Seam

Application :
•Stitch type – 602 is used for attaching tape , lace, braid, elastic to knit fabric.
•Stitch type- 606 is used for making knitted undergarments. It is also used for
decorative purpose.
•For making cover stitch, top stitching in the fabric edge this type is also used.
Disadvantages :
•Stitches under this group are very complex and may need up to 9 threads.

SEAMS
British Standard 3870:1991 classified seam constructions under eight headings :
Class 1 –
Superimposed
This seam is constructed with a minimum of tw0o components and is
the most widely used seam construction in this class. Among others,
safety stitched and French seams are covered by
SSa Plain seam on dress blouses , trousers
SSe Enclosed seams at edges of collars and cuffs
SSf Straps seam taping or staying
SSk piped seam
SSp Hem or single needle French seam
SSq Sandwitch seams used to set waistbands
SSz Plain seam, busted and top stitch on each side
SSae French seam

SUPER- IMPOSED SEAM
Defination:
Applications:

SEAMS
Class 2 –
Lapped Seam
The best example of this seam is the lapped seam
construction used for many denim articles and for
certain types of blouses and shirts.
LSa Seam for leather and synthetic
LSc Side seam on betterment dress shirt
LSd Set patch pocket lables etc
LSf Yokes seams, men’s dress shirt

LAPPED FELLED SEAM
Defination:
Applications:

SEAMS
Class 3 –
Bound Seam
Used for constructing a decorative edge binding from
self or other material such as
Bsa Binding on edge with ribbon on leather
BSc Binding on edge with bias binding setting sleeve
placket
BSf Binding an edge with fabric
BSk Binding an edge with welt
BSo Binding an edge with plain fabric

BOUND SEAM
Defination:
Applications:

SEAMS
Class 4 – Flat
Seam
In this class the seam edges do not overlap but are
butted together.
FSa Flat seams on sweat shirts and undergarments
Class 5 –
Decorative
Seam
This construction consists of a row or rows of stitches
sewn through one or more piles of fabric.
1 Twin needle stitch with a needle
2 Multi-needle seam
3 Version of pleats
4 Pin tucks

FLAT SEAM
Defination:
Applications:

SEAMS
Class 6– Edge
Neatening
This could refer to the overlocked edge of a single ply
or to the single turned overlocked hem of a blouse
1 Typical of the hem on a dress or a pair of trouser in a
woven fabric. And then sewn up invisibly
2 A folding device is used in the construction of the hem
of a skirt or a shirt lining
3 Method of folding an edge that is sometimes used on
the button holes front of the shirt
4

DECORATIVE SEAM
Defination:
Applications:

SEAMS
Class 7–
Applied
These are called applied seams because they are used
to apply a decorative material to an edge or seam, such
as the lace edging on a nightdress sleeve.
1 A band of lace attached to the lower edge of a slip
2 Elastic braid on the edge of an undergarment
3 Inserted elastic on the leg of a swim suit
4 The additional item is self fabric plus interlining is
another version of the buttonhole band on a shirt
Class 8
Constructed from one ply of fabric only , this class is
commonly used for belt loops.
1 Construction for belt themselves and two possible
construction
2
3 Its quicker and cheaper construction and a special
machine required to fold the fabric

CHAPTER – 7
THE PRINCIPLES OF PRESSING TECHNOLOGY

Pressing can be defined as a process which
changes the geometric fiber structure of the area
being pressed by the controlled application of
heat, steam and pressure. In this sense, removing
a crease from a garment involves the same
change of fiber lay as that required to open a
seam or to press a hem.
The total process of pressing cab be divided into
two groups of operations, under pressing and top
pressing. Regardless of fabric, type of garment
or the machinery and equipment employed, the
majority of pressing operations have the same
components, that is, steam, pressure, drying and
time.
It is no exaggeration to say that apart from
cutting, the two cornerstones of garment quality
are fusing and pressing process give the final
finish and appearance. The importance of
pressing should never be underestimated,
because of its decisive contribution to garment
quality and appeal.
GARMENT TECHNOLOGY
THE PRINCIPLES OF PRESSING TECHNOLOGY

Regardless of fabric, type of garment or the machinery and equipment employed, the majority of pressing operations
have the same components.
Steam : The purpose of using pressurized steam is to relax the fiber structure of the fabric and make it pliable enough
to be molded by manipulation and pressure.
Pressure : after steaming, manual or mechanical pressure is used to change the geometric fiber lay of the area being
pressed.
Drying : Following the application of steam and pressure, the area which has undergone these processes has to be dried
and cooled.
Time : the length of the time to which a component or garment is subjected to steaming, pressure and drying is a
combined function of team temperature, garment construction and the physical properties of the fabric.
THE PRINCIPLES OF PRESSIGN TECHNOLOGY
COMPONENTS OF PRESSIGN
Time
Steam Steam Steam

CHAPTER – 8
GARMENT FINISHING AND INSPECTION

Finishing and inspection are the two major
operations in the manufacture of garments before
they are bagged or boxed and delivered to the
finish good warehouse. In most factories these two
operations are performed by separate departments.
Finishing covers all the operations required to
complete the garment. This process includes
attaching buttons, sewing, labels, cleaning, final
touches, etc.
Inspection is curtail for sample garments because
apart from design considerations, there are a
number of important factors involved. These
includes fitting quality, measurements, viewing the
garment, quality standards, working methods, etc.
A great deal of responsibility is involved when a
completed sample is handed over to the marketing
department. By this action the designer has
confirmed that the garment meets all the planned,
relevant commercial and technical criteria, and
above all that quality is precisely what is required.
GARMENT TECHNOLOGY
GARMENT FINISHING AND INSPECTION
Garment Inspection Garment Finishing

SPECIFICATION SHEET
( GARMENT : HALF SLEEVE CASUAL SHIRT)

A sample production contains a large number of
standard operations, new operation are continually
being developed and sometimes these necessitate a
considerable amount of trial and error work.
Producing sample is a sporadic operation which
requires close and active direction by management in
order to achieve the planned objectives.
Unlike a regular production unit which works within
a uniform structure, the sample room operates under
different conditions. The operating conditions of the
sample room are in sharp contrast to those prevailing
in the factory. The personnel and responsibilities of a
sample garment making is relied upon pattern maker,
cutter, sewing machine operators, special machine
operators, pressers, finishing, quality and training.
The objectives of any production system is to
produce efficiently the planned number of garments
within the allocated time and at the required quality.
Conditions and the scale of operation have a great
influence on how to be maximized.
GARMENT TECHNOLOGY
THE SAMPLE ROOM

CHAPTER – 10
COMMUNICATION

The communication of information is an integral part of
the day to day working routine in the design department.
In all instances the accuracy of the information
transmitted is important because there is no place for
guesswork in an organization which wants to be
efficient.
Once the decision has been taken to develop a particular
design, the design will remain only an idea unless it is
translated into a garment. This means a designer has to
prepare a design specification which is a detailed and
precise presentation of the planned design and technical
objectives of the garment.
In a practical sense, the design specification is the
primary planning and control tool for a sample garment.
Without it the people involved with producing samples
have no definite information as to what to do and how.
In the majority of factories, the design department is not
expected to provide accurate and finalized costing for
sample garments, but to collate and present a reliable
basis for the costing clerk to work from.
COMMUNICATION

THANK YOU FOR WATCHING
By NISTHA CHANDELA
Two Year Diploma In Fashion Design
Confirming To NSQF Level 6 Of NSDC

Garment technology

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