Garments tecnology-Basic about Garments Technology

BASIC OF GARMENTS TECHNOLOGY
• Tonmoy
• Textile 36 Batch
• University of south asia
• Tonmoymollick78@gmail.com
11/14/2018

Historical development of garments industry in Bangladesh and other countries of the world:
• Garments is the second need of basic needs of human. Once man used leafs, barks and animal skin
to protect their body from environment conditions when yarn and fabric was unknown to human. It
difficult to say the exact time of the use of fabric for human clothings.
• 1755, The first sewing machine developed by Charles Fredric of England but the stitch of that
were like hand stitch.
• 1851,Commercially successful sewing machine developed by Issac Merit Singer.
• The singer sewing machine got popularity and spread all over the world very soon. Still the singer
sewing machine is popular all over the world as domestic sewing machine. As industrial sewing
machine Juki Co. of Japan start marketing their sewing m/c and got popularity very soon.
• 1829, The first garments factory was established at Paris with 80 sewing m/c to produce uniform for
military forces.
• 1856, John Barren set up a garments factory in England.
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• 1960, A garment factory named Reaz garments was established in Dhaka, Bangladesh. It was the first
direct exporter of garments from Bangladesh.
• Initially the products of Reaz garments were sold in local market.
• In 1967, the Reaz garment first exported 10,000 pieces of shirt to England.
• 1981-82, As a garment exporting country Bangladesh actually started their garment export and the
export value of garment in the were 0.1 Billion tk.
• 1991-92, the export value of garments raised to 45 Billion tk.
• 1998-99, the export value raised to 250 Billion tk.
• 2005, The export value raised to 6 thousand 889 million dollar which is 76% of the total national export
earning.
• -At present number of garments factory in Bangladesh is 3700 among them 2800 in Dhaka base, 600 in
Chattagong base and the remaining 300 in other districts.
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• -Most of the garment factories are export oriented. About 300 factory established with foreign
collaboration. Number of direct employees in the garment sector is 17 lacks and about 855 of the
employees are women.
• -At present there are about 400,000 industrial sewing m/c is running in the garments factories .There
are about 115 categories of garments present in the world market and Bangladesh is exporting 20
categories of garments in America.
• - The main garment item that are exporting from Bangladesh are woven shirt, trouser-shirt, jacket,
jogging suit, shorts , under garments, child wear, cap etc. Bangladesh is exporting garments in
different countries of the world such as America, Canada, EEC, Australia, Belgium, Germany, France,
Hong Kong, Italy, Japan, Nether land, Sweden, Switcher land and Middle East.
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Various ways of getting order from buyer:
• Garments export business is one of the most t important export business of Bangladesh. The
oriented garments manufacturing industries gets export order by various ways. The most common
ways of getting garments export orders are discussed below:
• Through Buying House: Majority of garments export order is executed through garments buying
house. The garment buying house works like middle-man better buyer and garments
• By direct contact with buyer: There are big garments manufacturing organizations who have many
garment factories of their own administration and entrepreneur- ship. They also have very strong
marketing department, travels abroad with sample garments, discuss directly with the buyer and
collects export order.
• Through Internet and communication: There are some manufactures as well as buying houses
communicates through internet, e-mail, fax, telephone etc, and media and confirms export order.
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Garments Term and Definition:
• Allowance: The addition as extra to the exact measurement of the body with which a garment is
made out.
• Basic block: The pattern which is made in accordance with the area of different part of the human
body and their flexes and folds without allowance and style.
• Bar tack: Re-stitching over a very short length to give and increase the area a high load bearing
strength. For example belt loops and eh corners of pocket are bar tacked.
• Blind stitch: Special kind of stitch that does not surface at the face side but the sewing thread is
visible of backside. This stitch does not penetrate and perforate fully.
• Sample: The garment which is need for bulk production is called sample garments.
• Approved Sample: According to specification sheet, the sample which is approved by buyer is called
approved sample.
• Counter sample: The sample which is followed by approved sample is called Counter sample. For
smooth production it is necessary.
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• Pattern: It is a hard paper which is made by following each individual component for a style of
garments.
• Working Pattern: To make pattern for a particular style with net dimension.
• Production Pattern: To make pattern for a particular style with net dimension along with allowance.
• Sample garment: Buyer gives design to the manufacturer. Then he make pattern according to the
design and a sample make and send it to the buyer for approval to know whether it is according to
the dimension or not.
• Disposable garments: The garments which are not used further after using ones i.e. the garments
which are thrown after using ones are called disposable ferments.
• Accessories or Trimming: Without fabric, it includes thread, button, interlining, zipper, main label,
care label etc.
• Seam: The join between two or more pieces of material. Seams are usually formed by sewing but
welding, adhesives or other joining means are sometimes used.
• Stitch: Stitch is the ‘unit’ formed by sewing thread from a sewing machine.
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• N.S.A: No seam allowance.
• C.M (Cost of making) order: Buyer will provide all the fabric & accessories.
• Manufacturers have to make only garment & he will get charge of making only.
• C.M.T (Cost of making with trimming) order: Manufacturers have to manage all accessories items.
He will get charge of trimming & making charge.
• F.O.B (Foreign on Boat) order: Buyer gives only dollar. Manufacturers have to manage fabric,
accessories & traveling cost to send it up to sea or air.
• E.P.B: (Exporter Promotion Bureau): EPB is a government agency. They distribute the total quota for a
particular year to the BGMEA members. They distribute the quota according to the volume of that
garments and how many quantity they have exported for the last financial year.
• L/C: Letter of credit. It is a commitment by an opening bank on behalf of the importer in favour of
the exporter that the bills drawn by them on the importer countries covering the shipment of
items & quality of goods within stated period will be paid in exchange of documents under certain
terms & condition.There are two kinds of L/C-
1. Master L/C
2. Back to Back L/C
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• 1. Master L/C: When a L/C is opened to import the goods from exporter to the buyer, is called
Master L/C.
• 2. Back to back L/C: When a L/C is opened against master L/C to import or collect raw materials to
produce and supply the garment is called back to back L/C.
• C &F: Clearing related with import & forwarding related with export. If the price of goods is
mentioned in invoice including transport cost is called C &F.
• Bonded Warehouse facilities: These facilities allow export oriented factories to import their raw
materials duty free.
• C.I.F: If the price of goods is mentioned in invoice with including transports cost and insurance cost.
• Invoice: After sending the garments goods to the importer country, the documents mentioning the
price is send to the buyer for collecting price.
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Canada Non-quota Categories:
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Category Description
39 T-shirt, Suit shirt.
40 Sleep wear, pajama, bathroom, house coat, dressing gown.
41 Rain wear.
42 Dresses-W.G, scarts-MBWG.
43 Brassier, foundation garments.
44 Swim wear.
45 Under wear.
46 Over coat, top coat, leather jacket and coat.
47 Fine suit, blazer and sports coat.
50 Sweater.

• USA quota Categories:
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Category Description
237 Play suit, sun suits, Romper.
331 Cotton hand gloves and mitten.
335 Boys and men’s cotton jacket and coat.
334 Girls and women’s cotton jacket and coat.
336/636 Cotton and synthetic dress.
338/339 Cotton knit shirt and blouse (Boys, Girls, men’s, women’s)
340/640 Cotton knit shirt and blouse (Boys, men’s) without knit fabric.
341 Cotton knit shirt and blouse (Girls, women’s) without knit fabric.
342/642 Cotton and synthetic skirts, skort.
347/348 M&B, W&G cotton trouser, shorts, slacks.
351/651 Cotton and synthetic night wear, pajama.
634 Others synthetic coat and jacket (Boys, men’s).
638/639 M&B, W&G synthetic knit shirt and blouse.
645/646 M&B, W&G sweater.
647/648 MBWG, synthetic shorts

Sequence of Garments Manufacturing or Flow Chart of Garments:
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Operation Job Method
1. Design or
Sketch
1. It comes from buyers to manufacturers containing
sketch including all measurement of particular styles.
1. Manual or
Computerized.
2. Basic block. 2. Basic block is an individual component of garments
without any design or style.
2. Manual or
Computerized.
3. Working
Pattern.
3. Supposed cutting off figure of net dimension on paper.
Each cut part is called Pattern.
3. Manual or
Computerized.
4. Sample
Making.
4. To make a sample, this will be approved by buyer. After
making sample, it is sent to buyer for approval to know
whether it is according to his dimension or not. (Comes
from buyer to rectify faults.)
4. Manual
5. Basic
manufacturing
difficulties.
5. ----- 5. Manual

6. Approved
sample.
6. After rectifying faults it is again sent to buyer. It is ok,
then it is called approved sample.
6. Manual
7. Costing 7. (a) Fabric required.
(b) Making charged.
(c) Trimming.
(d) Profit.
7. Manual
8. Production
pattern.
8. Making allowance with net dimension. 8. Manual or
Computerized.
9. Grading. 1. By following production pattern approved sample is
always made medium. If the buyers require different
sizes, so should have to grade the dimension. It may
be S, L, M, XL, and XXL.
9. Manual or
Computerized.
10. Marker
making.
10. Marker is a thin paper which contains all the
components for different sizes for a particular style of
garments.
10. Manual or
Computerized.
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11. Fabric
Spreading
11. To spread the fabric on table properly for
cutting.
1. Manual with the
help of machine.
12. Cutting. 12. To cut fabric according to marker dimension. 1. Manual or
Computerized.
13. Sorting &
bundling.
13. Sort out the fabric according to size & for
each size make individual bundle.
1. Manual.
14. Sewing 14. Inspection. 1. Manual.
15. Ironing or
finishing.
15. After sewing, we will get a complete
garment which is treated with steam ironing.
1. Manual
16. Final
inspection.
16. Should be approved as initial sample. 1. Manual.
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Different Section of garments:
• There are mainly four sections-
• Sample section: This section includes “Designing to marker making”. The main function of this section
is to make approve sample.
• Cutting section: This section includes process starting from “Marker making to sorting & bundling”.
To cut the fabric according to the marker dimension is the main function of this section.
• Sewing section: This section includes only “inspection “ area. The function of this section is to make a
complete garment by using all of the cutting components for a particular style of garments.
• Finishing section: This section includes process from “Ironing to send to buyer”. After making sample,
it should be treated by steam, iron and use in it all of the finishing accessories and ultimately make
the garments attractive as per buyers approve sample.
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 Difference between Garments & Tailor:
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Tailor Garments
1. It takes 1 or 2 persons to make a
garment.
It takes many persons to make a garment.
2. Garment is made for a particular person. Garment is made for many people.
3. Garment is made according to the body
measurement of a person.
Garment is made according to standard
body measurement.
4. No grading is done. Grading is done.
5. Garment can be made from a machine. Garment can be made from many
machines.
6. Initial cost is relatively low. Initial cost is relatively high.
7. Single ply of fabric is used. Multiple ply of fabric is used.
8. Fabric wastage is high. Least fabric wastage.
9. Risk of loss is least. Risk of loss is more.
10. No need of pattern. Pattern must be required.
11. It fakes a few hours to make a garment. It takes less than one minute to make
garments

Block patterns are made in two ways:
1. Flat method,
2. Modeling.
• Flat method:
In this method, the pattern of different parts of garments especially body and sleeve are made by
technical drawing. In technical drawing, the rule and application of method of body measurement
and its ratio depends on pattern maker. This type of pattern can be made by computer. In this case, the
program of pattern making is stored in computer disc. Actually this method comes from modeling
method and by this method fast pattern making is possible.
• Modeling:
It is primary and first method and is widely still used in garments industry still now. In this method,
Block is made with standard body measurement of dummy is called Toile. Toile is worn on the body of
dummy to check fittings. Then toile is worn out from the body of dummy and individual parts of toile
are drawn on hard paper or board paper. In this method, more time is required but most efficient.
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Different components of a basic shirt:
Components of a basic shirt:
1. Collar, 11. Left cuff,
2. Collar band/stand, 12. Right cuff.
3. Upper Yoke, 13. Back part,
4. Lower yoke, 14. Pocket,
5. Left front part, 15. Upper front facing,
6. Right front part, 16. Lower front facing,
7. Sleeve- 17. Left sleeve placket,
8. Left sleeve, 18. Right sleeve placket,
9. Right sleeve. 19. Left sleeve genbol or Lower placket,
10. Cuff- 20. Right sleeve genbol or Upper placket.
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• Different components of a pant of trouser:
Components of a basic pant:
1. Waist band,
2. Waist band loop,
3. Left front part,
4. Right front part,
5. Left back part,
6. Right back part,
7. Zippers fly.
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Constraints of Marker making :
For an efficient marker making requires such a condition so that marker maker can see easily full length
and width of marker. The marker maker proceeds by first positioning the larger pattern pieces and then
fitting the smaller pieces into the gaps so that minimize the fabric wastage i.e. increased marker
efficient. Then patterns turned in different direction for reducing marker length i.e. increasing marker
efficiencies.
The work of the marker planner is subject to a number of constrains. These relate to:
1. The nature of the fabric and the desired result in the finished garment.
2. The requirements of quality in cutting.
3. The requirements of production planning.
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Points should be considered before marker making:
1. Fabric width must be higher than marker width(
1 "
2
)
2. Fabric length must be higher than marker length 1+1”
3. When pattern pieces are laid down the piece of cloth, the grain line should be parallel to the line
of the warp in a woven fabric or the wales in a knitted fabric where pattern pieces are laid across
the piece, the grain line should lie parallel to the weft or course direction.
4. All the pattern pieces of a garment should be along the same direction when laid down on an
asymmetrical fabric.
5. Length of cutting table
6. Production planning.
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Methods of marker making:
Methods of marker making are-
1. Manual method,
2. Computerized method.
Manual Technique:
• It may be two types-
a) Marker planning with full size patterns in a full size:
• In this method, all patterns are in full dimension according to standard
measurement.
• Hard patterns are placed on paper or fabric and then all patterns are
rounded to reduce the marker length.
• The top of table, on which marker make are fixed or tilting and the tilting
table top are placed in various angle.
• Arrangement of vacuum system under table top.
• Suitable for minimized marker length.
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b) Marker with minimized pattern:
• Full size pattern are minimized
1
5
part by a pantograph and minimized patterns made by
pantograph are plastic sheet or hard and coarser.
• Marker is planed by minimized pattern.
• After marker making, marker is taken snap by camera.
• The covered area of pattern in marker is measured by planimeter.
Then marker efficiency is measured by marker area and pattern area.
• Marker photograph and minimized pattern are stored.
Advantage:
• Suitable for small production
• Investment is low.
Disadvantages:
• More time required.
• High Labour cost.
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2. Computerized marker making method:
This is the best method as it gives higher marker efficiency. In this method, the pattern size, pattern
pieces, grade rule screening are fed to the computer and set in the memory which produces marker
automatically.
This method part of an integrated system which includes-
a) Disitizing system.
b) Scanning system.
a)Disitizing system:
Placing working pattern on disitizing table then clicking according to the pattern.
b)Scanning system:
Scanner is one kind of machine like photopier.
• Placing working pattern on scanning glass and making marker for a
selected size (medium).
• Then using grade rule for marker making of another sizes.
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Automatic marker making:
• In this method, computer makes marker itself. According to given commands computer can make
marker.In this method , the mojst efficient marker can be got but it takes more time as the computer
makes marker with the help of permutation and combination.
Interactive marker making:
• Common process, the operators plans markers by interacting directly with the system through a
computer screen. All the pattern pieces are displayed in miniature at the top of the screen. In this
method data pen and tablet used for transferring of patterns.
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Garments tecnology-Basic about Garments Technology

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