METHODS OF PATTERN MAKING
S.Manohari, msc.,
Assistant professor,
Department of fashion technology and costume designing,
Bon secours college for women,
Thanjavur.
Methods of Pattern Making
Pattern making involves three methods-
Drafting
Draping
Flat paper pattern making
Drafting
It involves measurements derived from sizing systems or accurate measurements taken on a person, dress or body form.
Measurements for chest, waist, hip and so on, and ease allowances are marked on paper and construction lines are drawn to complete the pattern.
Drafting is used to create basic, foundation or design patterns.
MEASUREMENTS
Bust – measure just under the arms around the fullest part of chest.Waist – measure around narrowest part of torso.High Hip – measure 6 inches [15.5 cm] below waist around the hips.Back-waist length – measure from nape of neck to waist levelShoulder length – measure shoulder from ball socket to side of neck.Armhole depth – measure from nape of neck to under arm level.Back width – measure from armhole to armhole across shoulder blades.Neck – measure around base of neck.
Tools use for Drafting
A: Tape Measure
B: Seam Ripper
C: Fine Point Sharpie Marker
D: Tracing Wheel
E: Rotary Cutter
Contin……..
G: Tracing Paper
F: Fabric Scissors
H: Scotch Tape
I: Clear Rulers
J: Right Angle
K: Curved Rulers
Draping
It involves the draping of a two dimensional piece of fabric around a form, conforming to its shape, creating a three-dimensional fabric pattern.
Ease allowances for movement are added to make the garment comfortable to wear.
However, it is more expensive and time consuming than flat pattern making.
Draping can be made on a Human body or on a stand.
Advantage of draping is that the designer can see the overall design effect of the finished garment on the body form before the garment piece is cut and sewn.
Flat Pattern Making
It involves the development of a fitted basic pattern with comfort ease to fit a person or body form.
A sloper is the starting point for flat pattern designing.
It is a simple pattern that fits the body with just enough ease for movement and comfort. Five basic pattern pieces are used for women’s clothing.
They include a snug-fitting bodice front and bodice back with darts and a basic neckline, a sleeve and a fitted skirt front and back with darts.
However, as fashion changes frequently women’s styles fluctuate frequently.
These basic slopers are then manipulated to create fashions.
Nowadays draping is also tested by Computer aid techniques.
A basic sloper has no seam allowances, which facilitates its manipulations to various styles.
It has no design interest, only construction lines are marked on it.
It is necessary that the basic structure of a sloper should be such that adjustments can be introduced easily.
For a good pattern making, accurate measurements are of utmost importance.
METHODS OF PATTERN MAKING
S.Manohari, msc.,
Assistant professor,
Department of fashion technology and costume designing,
Bon secours college for women,
Thanjavur.
Methods of Pattern Making
Pattern making involves three methods-
Drafting
Draping
Flat paper pattern making
Drafting
It involves measurements derived from sizing systems or accurate measurements taken on a person, dress or body form.
Measurements for chest, waist, hip and so on, and ease allowances are marked on paper and construction lines are drawn to complete the pattern.
Drafting is used to create basic, foundation or design patterns.
MEASUREMENTS
Bust – measure just under the arms around the fullest part of chest.Waist – measure around narrowest part of torso.High Hip – measure 6 inches [15.5 cm] below waist around the hips.Back-waist length – measure from nape of neck to waist levelShoulder length – measure shoulder from ball socket to side of neck.Armhole depth – measure from nape of neck to under arm level.Back width – measure from armhole to armhole across shoulder blades.Neck – measure around base of neck.
Tools use for Drafting
A: Tape Measure
B: Seam Ripper
C: Fine Point Sharpie Marker
D: Tracing Wheel
E: Rotary Cutter
Contin……..
G: Tracing Paper
F: Fabric Scissors
H: Scotch Tape
I: Clear Rulers
J: Right Angle
K: Curved Rulers
Draping
It involves the draping of a two dimensional piece of fabric around a form, conforming to its shape, creating a three-dimensional fabric pattern.
Ease allowances for movement are added to make the garment comfortable to wear.
However, it is more expensive and time consuming than flat pattern making.
Draping can be made on a Human body or on a stand.
Advantage of draping is that the designer can see the overall design effect of the finished garment on the body form before the garment piece is cut and sewn.
Flat Pattern Making
It involves the development of a fitted basic pattern with comfort ease to fit a person or body form.
A sloper is the starting point for flat pattern designing.
It is a simple pattern that fits the body with just enough ease for movement and comfort. Five basic pattern pieces are used for women’s clothing.
They include a snug-fitting bodice front and bodice back with darts and a basic neckline, a sleeve and a fitted skirt front and back with darts.
However, as fashion changes frequently women’s styles fluctuate frequently.
These basic slopers are then manipulated to create fashions.
Nowadays draping is also tested by Computer aid techniques.
A basic sloper has no seam allowances, which facilitates its manipulations to various styles.
It has no design interest, only construction lines are marked on it.
It is necessary that the basic structure of a sloper should be such that adjustments can be introduced easily.
For a good pattern making, accurate measurements are of utmost importance.
THE HIGHEST HAPPINESS THAT ACCOMPANIES THE SUCCESSFUL COMPLETION OF ANY TUSK WOULD BE INCOMPLETE WITH OUT THE EXPRESSION OF GRATITUDE TO ALL THOSE PEOPLE WHO HAVE HELPED ME THOROUGH OUT THIS PROJECT AS SUCCESS IS THE ABSTRACT OF HARD WORK
This session seeks to enlighten the learner on what pattern is, its improtance and and ways of obtaining them. it also help you to identify the tools and materials needed for pattern making
THE HIGHEST HAPPINESS THAT ACCOMPANIES THE SUCCESSFUL COMPLETION OF ANY TUSK WOULD BE INCOMPLETE WITH OUT THE EXPRESSION OF GRATITUDE TO ALL THOSE PEOPLE WHO HAVE HELPED ME THOROUGH OUT THIS PROJECT AS SUCCESS IS THE ABSTRACT OF HARD WORK
This session seeks to enlighten the learner on what pattern is, its improtance and and ways of obtaining them. it also help you to identify the tools and materials needed for pattern making
Pleats are folds of fabric that are sewn in place at the top edge of skirts and trousers to add fullness or ease.
Pleats can be partially sewn down inside the fold, edgestitched (page link) on the surface or simply folded with the fold secured in a crossing seam and allowed to hang freely. Press pleats along the fold for a crisp look or leave them unpressed to create soft folds. Pleats can be sewn with an underlay fabric hidden beneath the pleat so when the pleat opens up, the contrast fabric is revealed. Sew pleats in groups or pairs, sew one single pleat or make pleats across the entire width of a skirt. There are different types of pleats, including box pleats, knife pleats and inverted pleats. The fabric is folded differently for each type of pleat, but they are sewn in the same manner.
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3. To understand what creates a
great fit and how to achieve it.
No longer use draping as part of
the design process
The designer can immediately
see result of Their how design
will look
When Fabrics are experimented
with on a dress form so we can
see how they behave.
importance