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‱ Course Name :
‱ Course Code : 1976
‱ Topic Name : Different Type of Faults on Textile
Manufacturing.
Submission By Submission To
Md. A.B. Siddique
Md. Motasim Billa Junior Faculty
R-HABHIT
Rajshahi-HABHIT
WOVEN FABRIC FAULTS
3
1. STARTING MARK
WARP YARN HEALD SHAFT
FIG: LEVELLING STATE OF WARP YARN IN LOOM
FIG: SHEDDING STATE OF WARP YARN
REASON:
THE MAIN REASON OF STARTING MARK
IS THE EXTENSION OF WARP YARN DUE
TO THE TENSION THAT CREATS ON IT.
REMEDIES:
TO SOLVE THIS PROBLEM WE HAVE TO
MOVE THE BACK REST IN THE
BACKWARD POSITION.
4
2. LOOSE WARP IN FABRIC
REASONS:
a. IF THE TENSION OF WARP
YARN IS LOW IN WARPING,
THEN THIS FAULT APPEARS.
b. IF THE BEAM CONTAIN
BROKEN WARP YARN.
REMIDIES:
a. THE WARP TENSION IN
WARPING SHOULD BE
EQUAL AND UNIFORM.
b. WE HAVE TO MOTIVATE THE
WORKER TO TAKE CARE OF
THE FABRIC.
5
3. DOUBLE END
REASON:
a. AFTER SIZING IF THE TWO ENDS OF WARP
STICKS TOGATHER. AND IF THE WORKER
DON’T OBSERVE THAT PROPERLY THAN
THOSE ENDS CAN GO TOGATHER
THROUGH THE SAME HEALD EYE AND
CAN CREATE THIS PROBLEM.
REMEDIE:
WORKER HAVE TO BE VERY CARE FULL
ABOUT THIS MATTERS.
6
BROKEN WARP
REASON:
IF A WARP YARN BREAKS AND IF THE DROPPER
DON’T FALL ON THE DROPPER BAR , THEN THIS
FAULT ARISE.
REMEDIES:
1. OPERATOR SHOULD WALK AROUND THE
MACHINE TO OBSERVE THIS SORTS OF
PROBLEM.
2. IF THE PROBLEM IS IN THE DROPPER BAR
THEN, WE HAVE TO CHANGE THAT BAR.
7
TIGHT END
REASON:
IF THE TENSION OF A WARP YARN IS MORE THAN THE
OTHER ENDS PRESENT IN THE LOOM THEN THIS
PROBLEM ARISE. THIS OVER TENSION PRODUCED ON
WARP DURING WARPING AND WEAVING.
REMEDIES:
TO SOLVE THIS PROBLEM WE HAVE TO FIND THESE
ENDS AND HAVE TO ADJUST THE TENSION.
8
FLOAT OF WARP
REASON :
IF SOMEONE PULL THE FABRIC TOWARDS
THE CLOTH ROLLER INTENTIONALY OR
UNTENTIONALY THEN WE CAN HAVE THIS
FAULT.
REMEDIES:
WORKER HAVE TO BE VERY CAREFULL
ABOUT THE BUTTON WHICH CAUSES THE
FABRIC TO COME FORWARD.
9
WRONG END COLOUR
REASON:
IT HAPPENS DUE TO THE WRONG DRAWING OF
COLOUR YARN.
REMEDIES:
1. WORKER HAVE TO BE VERY CAREFULL
DURING DOING THE JOB OF DRWING.
2. AFTER FINDING THE FAULTS WE HAVE TO
REMOVE THE FAULTY COLOUR YARN AND
PLACE A CORRECT COLOUR YARN.
10
BROKEN PICK
REASONS:
1. IF THE SPEED OF THE MACHINE IS TOO
HIGH, THEN BEAT FORCE OF THE REED
TO WEFT YARN WILL BE TOO HIGH.
2. IF THE PRESSURE OF THE RELAY NOZZLE
AND ELCA IS TOO HIGH.
REMEDIES:
1. WE HAVE TO REDUCE SPEED OF THE
MACHINE.
2. WE HAVE TO REDUCE THE PREESURE OF
RELAY NOZZLE OR ELCA.
11
MISS PICK
REASONS:
IF A WORKER START A
STOPPED MACHINE
WITHOUT PICKING THE
BROKEN WEFT FROM THE
SHED THEN THIS TYPE OF
FAULT ARISE.
REMEDY:
WE HAVE TO MOTIVATE THE
WORKER TO DO JOB
PROPERLY DURING TIME OF
PICK FINDING.
12
DOUBLE PICK
REASON:
IF THE CUTTER DON’T WORK PROPERLY.
REMEDY:
THE ANGLE OF THE CUTTER SHOULD BE
CHANGED OR IT’S BLADE SHOULD BE
CHANGED.
13
SNARL OR LOOSE WEFT
REASON:
IT HAPPENS DUE TO THE
MALFUNCTIONING OF THE PFT
OR
DUE TO LOOSENESS OF THE FILLING YARN
OR
THE WRONG ALIGNMENT OF
PRE-WINDER TO FIXED NOZZLE.
REMEDIES:
1. THE DEGREE OF THE PFT HAVE TO BE
PERFECT.
2. THE PRESSURE OF THE MAIN VALVE,
RELAY VALVE AND RELAY NOZZLE
SHOULD BE PERFECT.
3. THE ALIGNMENT OF THE PREWINDER
SHOULD UNIFORM AND STRAIGHT.
14
WEFT BAR
REASONS:
IF COUNT OF YARN VARY FROM
CONE TO CONE OR WITHIN THE
CONE THEN A BAR OF WEFT WILL
APPEARED IN FABRIC AFTER
WEAVING.
REMEDY:
TO SOLVE THIS PROBLEM WE NEED
TO BUY YARN WITH UNIFORM
THICKNESS.
15
BALL
REASON:
IF THE WARP IS TOO MUCH HAIRY . THEN
THE REED WILL CREATE BALL IN WARP
YARN IN- BETWEEN HEALD SHAFT AND
REED . IF THE BALL IS SMALL ENOUGH TO
PASS TROUGH THE DENT OF REED THEN
THEY WILL FORM THE BALL IN FABRIC.
REMEDY:
TO SOLVE THIS PROBLEM WE HAVE TO
CHANGE THE REED, OR REDUCE THE
TENSION OF THE WRAP YARN.
16
HOLES
1. IF WE TRY TO CUT THE BALLS OF
THE FABRIC WHICH MAKES THE
LOOK OF THE FABRIC POOR THEN IT
WILL BE CUT ALONG WITH THE
WARP. THIS WILL CREATE HOLE IN
THE FABRIC. THIS HOLES BECOME
BIGGER AFTER THE FINISHING
PROCESS.
2. IT CAN BE HAPPEN DUE TO THE
CLASH BETWEEN FABRIC AND SHARP
EDGE OF MACHINE PARTS.
REMEDIES:
1. IF WE CONTROL THE BALL WE
CAN CONTROL HOLE.
2. WORKER HAVE TO CAREFULL
DURING THE TRANSPORTATION
OF FABRIC FROM ONE FLOOR TO
ANOTHER TO AVOID SHARP
POINT TINGLE WITH FABRIC.
17
OIL SPOT
REASON:
OIL SPOT ON THE FABRICS ARE CAUSED
BY TOO MUCH OILING ON LOOM PARTS
FROM OTHER SOURCES.
REMEDY:
THIS STAINS ARE REMOVED SCOURING.
18
TEMPLE MARK
REASON:
IF THE PLACEMENT OF RING IN THE TEMPLE BAR IS
WRONG OR THE PRESSURE OF TEMPLE TO THE FABRIC
IS TOO HIGH.
REMEDY:
THE SETTING OF TEMPLE SHOULD BE PERFECT. AND
THE BRISTLE SHOULD BE SHARP AND EASY GOING.
19
TEMPLE PIERCED HOLE
REASON:
IF THE RING OF THE TEMPLE IS DAMAGED THEN
WE WILL HAVE THIS FAULT.
REMEDY:
THE BRISTLE OF THE TEMPLE SHOULD BE SHARP
AND EASY GOING.
20
CUT, TORN SELVEDGE
REASON:
IF THE CUTTER DON’T CUT THE EDGE
THE OF THE FABRIC PROPERLY OR IF
THE WEAVE IN THE EDGE OF THE
FABRIC IS NOT PROPER. THEN WE WILL
HAVE THIS FAULT.
REMEDIES:
1. WE CAN SOLVE THIS PROBLEM BY
CHANGING THE BLADE OF THE
CUTTER.
2. BY CHANGING THE DEGREE OF THE
CUTTER.
3. BY APPLYING SUITABLE WEAVE
SYSTEM IN THE EDGE OF THE
FABRIC.
21
REED MARK
REASON:
IF THE DENT OF THE REED IS DAMAGED THEN
WE WILL HAVE THIS KIND OF FAULTS.
REMEDY:
THE REED HAVE TO BE CHANGED
22
SLUB
REASON:
IF THE YARN CONTAIN
UNEXPECTED SLUB IN IT, THEN
THOSE SLUB WILL BE APPEARED
IN THE FABRIC AS A FAULT.
REMEDY:
THE QUALITY CONTROLER HAVE
TO BE VERY CAREFULL ABOUT
THE ABOUT QUALITY OF THE
YARN.
23
KNOTS
24
SHUTTLE TRAP
25
Holes
A fabric imperfection in which one or several
yarns are sufficiently damaged to create an
opening.
26
27
28
29
30
31
Weaving Faults
32
Bad Piecing
Cork Screw Yarn
Yarn Faults
Unduly thick piecing in yarn caused by over End piecing
EFFECT
 More end breaks in subsequent process
Increase in hard waste
CAUSES
Wrong method of piecing and over end piecing
Twisting the ends instead of knotting
RECTIFICATION
Tenters to be trained in proper methods of piecing
Separators to be provided
Excessive end breaks in spinning to be avoided
It is a double yarn which one yarn is straight and other is coiled over it
EFFECT
Breaks during winding
Causes streaks in the fabric
CAUSES
Feeding of two ends (instead of one ) in ring frame
Lashing -in ends in ring frame
RECTIFICATION
Tenters are to be trained in piecing methods(or) practices
Pneumafil ducts to be kept clean and properly set
33
HAIRINESS Protrusion of fibre ends from the main yarn structure
EFFECT
More end breaks in winding
Uneven fabric surface
Beads formation in the fabric in the case of polyester/cotton blends
CAUSESUse of cottons differing widely in the properties in the same mixing
Use of worn rings and lighter travellars
Maintaining low relative humidity, closer roller settings and very high spindle speeds
RECTIFICATION
Use of travellars of correct size and shape and rings in good condition to be ensured
Periodic replacement of travellars and suitable
Roller settings to be maintained
Optimum relative humidity to be maintained in the spinning room
Wide variation in the properties of cottons used in the mixing to be avoided
Presence of black specks of broken seeds, leaf bits and trash in yarn
EFFECT
Damaged fabric appearance
Production of specks during dyeing
Needle breaks during knitting
Poor performance during winding
CAUSESIneffective cleaning in Blow room and cards
Use of cottons with high trash and too many seed coat fragments
RECTIFICATION
Cleaning efficiency of blow room and cards to be improved
Optimum humidity in the departments to be ensured
KITTY YARN
34
CRACKERS
FOREIGN MATTERS
Very small snarl-like places in the yarn which disappear when pulled with enough tension or Yarn with
spring –likeshape
EFFECT
More breaks in winding
More noticable in polyester and cotton blendedyarns
CAUSES
Mixing of cottons of widely differing staple length
Closer roller settings
Eccentric top and bottom rollers
Non optimum temperature and relative humidity in the spiinning shed
Over spinning of cottons
RECTIFICATION
Optimum top roller pressure to be maintained
Mixing of cottons varying widely in fibre length to be avoided
Use of optimum roller settings
Use of properly buffed rollers free from eccentricity to be ensured
Metallic parts, jute flannel and other similar foreign matters spun along with yarn
EFFECT
Breaks during winding
Formation of holes and stains in cloth
Damaged fabric appearance
CAUSESImproper handling of travellers
Improper preparation of mixings
RECTIFICATION
Removal of foreign matters(such as jute fibres,colour cloth bits) to be ensured during preparation of
mixing
Installation of permanent magnets at proper
Places in blow room lines to be ensured
35
NEPS
OIL STAINED YARN
Yarn containing rolled fibre mass, which can be clearly seen on black board at
close distance; measurable on Uster imperfection Indicator.
EFFECT
Damaged fabric appearance
Shade variation in the dyed fabrics
An abnormally thick place or lump in yarn showing less twist at that place is called slubs
CAUSESAccumalation of fly and fluff on the machine parts
Poor carding.
Defective ring frame drafting and bad piecing
Improperly clothed top roller clearers.
RECTIFICATION
Machine surfaces to be maintained clean.
Proper functioning of pnemafil/roller clearers to be ensured.
Broken teeth gear wheel to be avoided and proper meshing to be ensured.
Better fiber individualisation at cards to be achieved.
Yarn stained with oil
EFFECT
Damaged fabric appearance
Occurrence of black spot in fabric
CAUSES
Careless oil in the moving parts,over head pulleys etc
Piecings made with oily or dirty fingers
Careless material handlings
RECTIFICATION
Appropriate material handling procedures to be followed
Oilers to trained in proper method of lubrication
Clean containers to be utilised for material transportation
36
OILY SLUB Slub in the yarn stained with oil
EFFECT
More end breaks in the ensuring process
Damaged fabric appearance
Shade variation in dyed fabrics
CAUSESAccumulation of oily fluff on machinery parts
Poor methods of lubrication in preparatory processes
Negligence in segregating the oily waste from process waste
RECTIFICATION
Yarn contact surfaces to be kept clean
Oilers to be trained in correct procedures of lubrication
Proper segregation of oily waste from process waste
An abnormally thick place or lump in yarn showing less twist at that place.
EFFECT
More end breaks in the next process.
Damaged fabric appearance.
Shade variation in dyed fabrics.
CAUSESAccumulation of fly and fluff on the machine parts.
Poor carding.
Defective ring frame drafting and bad piecing
Improperly clothed top roller clearers.
RECTIFICATION
Machine surfaces to be maintained clean.
Proper functioning of pnemafil/roller clearers to be ensured.
Broken teeth gear wheel to be avoided and proper meshing to be ensured.
Better fiber individualisation at cards to be achieved.
Optimum top roller pressure &back zone
Setting at ring frame to be maintained.
SLUBS
37
SNARL Yarn with kinks(twisted onto itself)due to insuffcient tension after twisting
EFFECT
Entanglement with adjacent ends causing a break
Damaged fabric appearance
Shade variation in dyed fabrics
Improper meshing of gear wheels
Mixing of cottons varying widely in fiber lengths and use of immature cottons
CAUSESHigher than normal twist in the yarn
Presence of too many long thin places in the yarn
RECTIFICATION
Optimum twist to be used for the type of cotton processed
Drafting parameters to minimise thin places in the yarn to be adopted
The yarn to be conditioned
Correct tension weights and slub catcher settings to be employed at winding
38
SPUN IN FLY THICK AND THIN PLACES
39
Garment Faults
40
Prepared By : Motasim Billa
ID: 127201047
(session 2012-2013)
Department : Textile Technology
Email: motasims152@yahoo.com
Blog : www. motasims152.blogspot.com (visit)
Prepared By :
41
Garment defects:
Any abnormality in the Garment that hinders its acceptability by the consumer ,is
called Garment defect. These are defects that are found in the fabric; mostly these
are caused by the sewing lines.
Garment defects
42
Garment defects can be separated into three categories:
1. Fabric defects:
These are defects that are found in the fabric; mostly these are not caused by the sewing
lines. E.g. running shade, selvedge-to-selvedge shade, holes, staining mark, missing yarn,
foreign yarn, slub , hairiness etc.
2. Workmanship and handling defects:
These are defects that are directly caused by production section, this would include both the
cutting and sewing section. Buyer’s approved samples must be referred to maintain perfect
workmanship.
3. Trims, accessories and embellishment defects:
Garment defect categories
43
Remedies:
1. Machine feed mechanism must be better quality
2. Sewing thread must be selected properly
3. Thread tension must be kept in limit
Seam Puckering: refers to the gathering of a seam either just after sewing or after
laundering causing an unacceptable seam appearance.
Seam Puckering
Causes: This problem arises due to uneven
stretching on to plies of fabric during sewing ,
improper thread tension , wrong sewing thread
selection , dimensional instability of the plies of
fabric etc.
44
Drop stitch/Skipped stitch: Irregular stitching along the seam.
Remedies:
1. Examine the setting and timing between needle and hook or looped.
2. Placing of needle properly.
3. The tension of thread should be adjusted.
4. Needle size & thread size must be adjusted.
5. The pressure of pressure foot must be adjusted accurately.
Drop stitch/Skipped stitch
Causes: It appears due to improper
handling of cut pieces or machine usage.
45
Wavy/staggered stitching: Stitches are not straight.
Remedies:
1. Needle to be changed
2. Needle size and thread size should be changed
3. Feed mechanism to be changed
Causes: It appears due to improper handling of
cut pieces, faulty feed mechanism, needle
deflection or wrong needle etc.
Wavy/staggered stitching
46
Open seam or broken seam: Portion of the garment that has not been covered by sewing
thread.
Remedies:
1. Proper setting and timing between needle and looper or hook.
2. Proper handling of the parts of garments
Causes:
This happens due to improper handling of the
parts of garments , improper setting and timing
between needle and looper or hook etc.
Open seam or broken seam
47
Broken Stitch: Non-continuous sewing thread.
Remedies:
1. Proper machine usage
2. proper trimming
Broken Stitch
Causes: It appears due to improper
trimming or machine usage.
48
Uncut/ loose thread: Extra thread or loose thread on seam line.
Remedies:
1. Garments finishing should be checked properly.
Uncut/ loose thread
Causes: It appears due to improper
trimming or finishing.
49
Holes: Broken holes in the fabric where you are able to see through the fabric to the other
side.
Remedy:
Better inspection of fabric and cut piece. Ensure that fabric and cut pieces that are not up
to standard are not put into line and production is wasted. Replace not standard cut
pieces with usable ones before input.
Cause:
Holes can come from fabric or it could be caused
by the production side, either by improper
trimming or broken needle puncturing the
fabric.
Holes
50
Shading Variations within different parts: Seams appear to be lighter or darker than the
other seams surrounding it.
Remedies: After cutting the garment parts must be kept in proper bundle with number.
Causes: It arises due to improper cutting,
bundling and numbering.
Shading Variations within different parts
51
Seams not aligned at crossing of seams: Seams are not lined up at intersection of seams.
Remedy: When these defects starts to appear at close to 2% or 5 pieces, the production
must be informed and the operator must re-trained in the proper usage of the machine.
Seams not aligned at crossing of seams
Cause: Defects generally come about
either from improper handling of the
cut piece.
52
Others: Misaligned buttons and holes ,unfinished buttonhole, missing buttons, wrong
placement of labels, hang tag, wrong folding or poor folding , improper packing into cartons –
all these defects come from finishing section.
Others
53
Sizing defects:
(Difference in measurement of various parts of garments), wrong placement of pocket,
buttonhole, embroidery and prints , measurement discrepancy- all these problems come
from pattern section.
Poor ironing:
if not sufficient, there might be creases and crinkles on garment surface and if ironing is too
heavy, there might be shining mark on garment.
misaligned buttons and holes ,unfinished buttonhole, missing buttons, wrong placement of
labels, hang tag, wrong folding or poor folding , improper packing into cartons – all these
defects come from finishing section.
Others
54
Trims, accessories and embellishment defects:
These defects include color, size and placement of trims such as labels, sewing thread, screen
print, embroidery designs, zipper, hangtag, lining, button and any kind of trims.
Defects are given below:
1. Unmatched color of thread
2. Broken button and zipper tape
3. Short zippers
4. Faulty zippers
5. Wrong labels
6. Improper size of the labels
7. Printing mistake of labels and cartons
8. Broken poly bag
9. Wrong hanger
10. Improper embroideries and prints. Etc.
Remedy:
This type of defects occurred due to unawareness. That is why during production the
garments should be checked properly (In line inspection) and the booking of trims
&accessories must be given as like as artwork.
Trims, accessories and embellishment defects:
55
3. Trims, accessories and embellishment defects:
These defects include color, size and placement of trims such as labels,
sewing thread, screen print , embroidery designs, zipper, hangtag,
lining , button and any kind of trims.
Defects are also classified (as per extent of defect) into Critical, Major and
Minor defects.
1.Critical defects are defects that are not allowed to be shipped and are
the most serious of defects (0%).
2. Major defects are serious defects that are not allowed over a certain
percentage (3%) depending on buyers
requirements
3. Minor defects are serious defects that are not allowed over a certain
percentage (5%) depending on buyers
requirements
Trims, accessories and embellishment defects:
56
57

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Fabric Faults

  • 1. ‱ Course Name : ‱ Course Code : 1976 ‱ Topic Name : Different Type of Faults on Textile Manufacturing. Submission By Submission To Md. A.B. Siddique Md. Motasim Billa Junior Faculty R-HABHIT Rajshahi-HABHIT
  • 2.
  • 4. 1. STARTING MARK WARP YARN HEALD SHAFT FIG: LEVELLING STATE OF WARP YARN IN LOOM FIG: SHEDDING STATE OF WARP YARN REASON: THE MAIN REASON OF STARTING MARK IS THE EXTENSION OF WARP YARN DUE TO THE TENSION THAT CREATS ON IT. REMEDIES: TO SOLVE THIS PROBLEM WE HAVE TO MOVE THE BACK REST IN THE BACKWARD POSITION. 4
  • 5. 2. LOOSE WARP IN FABRIC REASONS: a. IF THE TENSION OF WARP YARN IS LOW IN WARPING, THEN THIS FAULT APPEARS. b. IF THE BEAM CONTAIN BROKEN WARP YARN. REMIDIES: a. THE WARP TENSION IN WARPING SHOULD BE EQUAL AND UNIFORM. b. WE HAVE TO MOTIVATE THE WORKER TO TAKE CARE OF THE FABRIC. 5
  • 6. 3. DOUBLE END REASON: a. AFTER SIZING IF THE TWO ENDS OF WARP STICKS TOGATHER. AND IF THE WORKER DON’T OBSERVE THAT PROPERLY THAN THOSE ENDS CAN GO TOGATHER THROUGH THE SAME HEALD EYE AND CAN CREATE THIS PROBLEM. REMEDIE: WORKER HAVE TO BE VERY CARE FULL ABOUT THIS MATTERS. 6
  • 7. BROKEN WARP REASON: IF A WARP YARN BREAKS AND IF THE DROPPER DON’T FALL ON THE DROPPER BAR , THEN THIS FAULT ARISE. REMEDIES: 1. OPERATOR SHOULD WALK AROUND THE MACHINE TO OBSERVE THIS SORTS OF PROBLEM. 2. IF THE PROBLEM IS IN THE DROPPER BAR THEN, WE HAVE TO CHANGE THAT BAR. 7
  • 8. TIGHT END REASON: IF THE TENSION OF A WARP YARN IS MORE THAN THE OTHER ENDS PRESENT IN THE LOOM THEN THIS PROBLEM ARISE. THIS OVER TENSION PRODUCED ON WARP DURING WARPING AND WEAVING. REMEDIES: TO SOLVE THIS PROBLEM WE HAVE TO FIND THESE ENDS AND HAVE TO ADJUST THE TENSION. 8
  • 9. FLOAT OF WARP REASON : IF SOMEONE PULL THE FABRIC TOWARDS THE CLOTH ROLLER INTENTIONALY OR UNTENTIONALY THEN WE CAN HAVE THIS FAULT. REMEDIES: WORKER HAVE TO BE VERY CAREFULL ABOUT THE BUTTON WHICH CAUSES THE FABRIC TO COME FORWARD. 9
  • 10. WRONG END COLOUR REASON: IT HAPPENS DUE TO THE WRONG DRAWING OF COLOUR YARN. REMEDIES: 1. WORKER HAVE TO BE VERY CAREFULL DURING DOING THE JOB OF DRWING. 2. AFTER FINDING THE FAULTS WE HAVE TO REMOVE THE FAULTY COLOUR YARN AND PLACE A CORRECT COLOUR YARN. 10
  • 11. BROKEN PICK REASONS: 1. IF THE SPEED OF THE MACHINE IS TOO HIGH, THEN BEAT FORCE OF THE REED TO WEFT YARN WILL BE TOO HIGH. 2. IF THE PRESSURE OF THE RELAY NOZZLE AND ELCA IS TOO HIGH. REMEDIES: 1. WE HAVE TO REDUCE SPEED OF THE MACHINE. 2. WE HAVE TO REDUCE THE PREESURE OF RELAY NOZZLE OR ELCA. 11
  • 12. MISS PICK REASONS: IF A WORKER START A STOPPED MACHINE WITHOUT PICKING THE BROKEN WEFT FROM THE SHED THEN THIS TYPE OF FAULT ARISE. REMEDY: WE HAVE TO MOTIVATE THE WORKER TO DO JOB PROPERLY DURING TIME OF PICK FINDING. 12
  • 13. DOUBLE PICK REASON: IF THE CUTTER DON’T WORK PROPERLY. REMEDY: THE ANGLE OF THE CUTTER SHOULD BE CHANGED OR IT’S BLADE SHOULD BE CHANGED. 13
  • 14. SNARL OR LOOSE WEFT REASON: IT HAPPENS DUE TO THE MALFUNCTIONING OF THE PFT OR DUE TO LOOSENESS OF THE FILLING YARN OR THE WRONG ALIGNMENT OF PRE-WINDER TO FIXED NOZZLE. REMEDIES: 1. THE DEGREE OF THE PFT HAVE TO BE PERFECT. 2. THE PRESSURE OF THE MAIN VALVE, RELAY VALVE AND RELAY NOZZLE SHOULD BE PERFECT. 3. THE ALIGNMENT OF THE PREWINDER SHOULD UNIFORM AND STRAIGHT. 14
  • 15. WEFT BAR REASONS: IF COUNT OF YARN VARY FROM CONE TO CONE OR WITHIN THE CONE THEN A BAR OF WEFT WILL APPEARED IN FABRIC AFTER WEAVING. REMEDY: TO SOLVE THIS PROBLEM WE NEED TO BUY YARN WITH UNIFORM THICKNESS. 15
  • 16. BALL REASON: IF THE WARP IS TOO MUCH HAIRY . THEN THE REED WILL CREATE BALL IN WARP YARN IN- BETWEEN HEALD SHAFT AND REED . IF THE BALL IS SMALL ENOUGH TO PASS TROUGH THE DENT OF REED THEN THEY WILL FORM THE BALL IN FABRIC. REMEDY: TO SOLVE THIS PROBLEM WE HAVE TO CHANGE THE REED, OR REDUCE THE TENSION OF THE WRAP YARN. 16
  • 17. HOLES 1. IF WE TRY TO CUT THE BALLS OF THE FABRIC WHICH MAKES THE LOOK OF THE FABRIC POOR THEN IT WILL BE CUT ALONG WITH THE WARP. THIS WILL CREATE HOLE IN THE FABRIC. THIS HOLES BECOME BIGGER AFTER THE FINISHING PROCESS. 2. IT CAN BE HAPPEN DUE TO THE CLASH BETWEEN FABRIC AND SHARP EDGE OF MACHINE PARTS. REMEDIES: 1. IF WE CONTROL THE BALL WE CAN CONTROL HOLE. 2. WORKER HAVE TO CAREFULL DURING THE TRANSPORTATION OF FABRIC FROM ONE FLOOR TO ANOTHER TO AVOID SHARP POINT TINGLE WITH FABRIC. 17
  • 18. OIL SPOT REASON: OIL SPOT ON THE FABRICS ARE CAUSED BY TOO MUCH OILING ON LOOM PARTS FROM OTHER SOURCES. REMEDY: THIS STAINS ARE REMOVED SCOURING. 18
  • 19. TEMPLE MARK REASON: IF THE PLACEMENT OF RING IN THE TEMPLE BAR IS WRONG OR THE PRESSURE OF TEMPLE TO THE FABRIC IS TOO HIGH. REMEDY: THE SETTING OF TEMPLE SHOULD BE PERFECT. AND THE BRISTLE SHOULD BE SHARP AND EASY GOING. 19
  • 20. TEMPLE PIERCED HOLE REASON: IF THE RING OF THE TEMPLE IS DAMAGED THEN WE WILL HAVE THIS FAULT. REMEDY: THE BRISTLE OF THE TEMPLE SHOULD BE SHARP AND EASY GOING. 20
  • 21. CUT, TORN SELVEDGE REASON: IF THE CUTTER DON’T CUT THE EDGE THE OF THE FABRIC PROPERLY OR IF THE WEAVE IN THE EDGE OF THE FABRIC IS NOT PROPER. THEN WE WILL HAVE THIS FAULT. REMEDIES: 1. WE CAN SOLVE THIS PROBLEM BY CHANGING THE BLADE OF THE CUTTER. 2. BY CHANGING THE DEGREE OF THE CUTTER. 3. BY APPLYING SUITABLE WEAVE SYSTEM IN THE EDGE OF THE FABRIC. 21
  • 22. REED MARK REASON: IF THE DENT OF THE REED IS DAMAGED THEN WE WILL HAVE THIS KIND OF FAULTS. REMEDY: THE REED HAVE TO BE CHANGED 22
  • 23. SLUB REASON: IF THE YARN CONTAIN UNEXPECTED SLUB IN IT, THEN THOSE SLUB WILL BE APPEARED IN THE FABRIC AS A FAULT. REMEDY: THE QUALITY CONTROLER HAVE TO BE VERY CAREFULL ABOUT THE ABOUT QUALITY OF THE YARN. 23
  • 26. Holes A fabric imperfection in which one or several yarns are sufficiently damaged to create an opening. 26
  • 27. 27
  • 28. 28
  • 29. 29
  • 30. 30
  • 31. 31
  • 33. Bad Piecing Cork Screw Yarn Yarn Faults Unduly thick piecing in yarn caused by over End piecing EFFECT  More end breaks in subsequent process Increase in hard waste CAUSES Wrong method of piecing and over end piecing Twisting the ends instead of knotting RECTIFICATION Tenters to be trained in proper methods of piecing Separators to be provided Excessive end breaks in spinning to be avoided It is a double yarn which one yarn is straight and other is coiled over it EFFECT Breaks during winding Causes streaks in the fabric CAUSES Feeding of two ends (instead of one ) in ring frame Lashing -in ends in ring frame RECTIFICATION Tenters are to be trained in piecing methods(or) practices Pneumafil ducts to be kept clean and properly set 33
  • 34. HAIRINESS Protrusion of fibre ends from the main yarn structure EFFECT More end breaks in winding Uneven fabric surface Beads formation in the fabric in the case of polyester/cotton blends CAUSESUse of cottons differing widely in the properties in the same mixing Use of worn rings and lighter travellars Maintaining low relative humidity, closer roller settings and very high spindle speeds RECTIFICATION Use of travellars of correct size and shape and rings in good condition to be ensured Periodic replacement of travellars and suitable Roller settings to be maintained Optimum relative humidity to be maintained in the spinning room Wide variation in the properties of cottons used in the mixing to be avoided Presence of black specks of broken seeds, leaf bits and trash in yarn EFFECT Damaged fabric appearance Production of specks during dyeing Needle breaks during knitting Poor performance during winding CAUSESIneffective cleaning in Blow room and cards Use of cottons with high trash and too many seed coat fragments RECTIFICATION Cleaning efficiency of blow room and cards to be improved Optimum humidity in the departments to be ensured KITTY YARN 34
  • 35. CRACKERS FOREIGN MATTERS Very small snarl-like places in the yarn which disappear when pulled with enough tension or Yarn with spring –likeshape EFFECT More breaks in winding More noticable in polyester and cotton blendedyarns CAUSES Mixing of cottons of widely differing staple length Closer roller settings Eccentric top and bottom rollers Non optimum temperature and relative humidity in the spiinning shed Over spinning of cottons RECTIFICATION Optimum top roller pressure to be maintained Mixing of cottons varying widely in fibre length to be avoided Use of optimum roller settings Use of properly buffed rollers free from eccentricity to be ensured Metallic parts, jute flannel and other similar foreign matters spun along with yarn EFFECT Breaks during winding Formation of holes and stains in cloth Damaged fabric appearance CAUSESImproper handling of travellers Improper preparation of mixings RECTIFICATION Removal of foreign matters(such as jute fibres,colour cloth bits) to be ensured during preparation of mixing Installation of permanent magnets at proper Places in blow room lines to be ensured 35
  • 36. NEPS OIL STAINED YARN Yarn containing rolled fibre mass, which can be clearly seen on black board at close distance; measurable on Uster imperfection Indicator. EFFECT Damaged fabric appearance Shade variation in the dyed fabrics An abnormally thick place or lump in yarn showing less twist at that place is called slubs CAUSESAccumalation of fly and fluff on the machine parts Poor carding. Defective ring frame drafting and bad piecing Improperly clothed top roller clearers. RECTIFICATION Machine surfaces to be maintained clean. Proper functioning of pnemafil/roller clearers to be ensured. Broken teeth gear wheel to be avoided and proper meshing to be ensured. Better fiber individualisation at cards to be achieved. Yarn stained with oil EFFECT Damaged fabric appearance Occurrence of black spot in fabric CAUSES Careless oil in the moving parts,over head pulleys etc Piecings made with oily or dirty fingers Careless material handlings RECTIFICATION Appropriate material handling procedures to be followed Oilers to trained in proper method of lubrication Clean containers to be utilised for material transportation 36
  • 37. OILY SLUB Slub in the yarn stained with oil EFFECT More end breaks in the ensuring process Damaged fabric appearance Shade variation in dyed fabrics CAUSESAccumulation of oily fluff on machinery parts Poor methods of lubrication in preparatory processes Negligence in segregating the oily waste from process waste RECTIFICATION Yarn contact surfaces to be kept clean Oilers to be trained in correct procedures of lubrication Proper segregation of oily waste from process waste An abnormally thick place or lump in yarn showing less twist at that place. EFFECT More end breaks in the next process. Damaged fabric appearance. Shade variation in dyed fabrics. CAUSESAccumulation of fly and fluff on the machine parts. Poor carding. Defective ring frame drafting and bad piecing Improperly clothed top roller clearers. RECTIFICATION Machine surfaces to be maintained clean. Proper functioning of pnemafil/roller clearers to be ensured. Broken teeth gear wheel to be avoided and proper meshing to be ensured. Better fiber individualisation at cards to be achieved. Optimum top roller pressure &back zone Setting at ring frame to be maintained. SLUBS 37
  • 38. SNARL Yarn with kinks(twisted onto itself)due to insuffcient tension after twisting EFFECT Entanglement with adjacent ends causing a break Damaged fabric appearance Shade variation in dyed fabrics Improper meshing of gear wheels Mixing of cottons varying widely in fiber lengths and use of immature cottons CAUSESHigher than normal twist in the yarn Presence of too many long thin places in the yarn RECTIFICATION Optimum twist to be used for the type of cotton processed Drafting parameters to minimise thin places in the yarn to be adopted The yarn to be conditioned Correct tension weights and slub catcher settings to be employed at winding 38
  • 39. SPUN IN FLY THICK AND THIN PLACES 39
  • 41. Prepared By : Motasim Billa ID: 127201047 (session 2012-2013) Department : Textile Technology Email: motasims152@yahoo.com Blog : www. motasims152.blogspot.com (visit) Prepared By : 41
  • 42. Garment defects: Any abnormality in the Garment that hinders its acceptability by the consumer ,is called Garment defect. These are defects that are found in the fabric; mostly these are caused by the sewing lines. Garment defects 42
  • 43. Garment defects can be separated into three categories: 1. Fabric defects: These are defects that are found in the fabric; mostly these are not caused by the sewing lines. E.g. running shade, selvedge-to-selvedge shade, holes, staining mark, missing yarn, foreign yarn, slub , hairiness etc. 2. Workmanship and handling defects: These are defects that are directly caused by production section, this would include both the cutting and sewing section. Buyer’s approved samples must be referred to maintain perfect workmanship. 3. Trims, accessories and embellishment defects: Garment defect categories 43
  • 44. Remedies: 1. Machine feed mechanism must be better quality 2. Sewing thread must be selected properly 3. Thread tension must be kept in limit Seam Puckering: refers to the gathering of a seam either just after sewing or after laundering causing an unacceptable seam appearance. Seam Puckering Causes: This problem arises due to uneven stretching on to plies of fabric during sewing , improper thread tension , wrong sewing thread selection , dimensional instability of the plies of fabric etc. 44
  • 45. Drop stitch/Skipped stitch: Irregular stitching along the seam. Remedies: 1. Examine the setting and timing between needle and hook or looped. 2. Placing of needle properly. 3. The tension of thread should be adjusted. 4. Needle size & thread size must be adjusted. 5. The pressure of pressure foot must be adjusted accurately. Drop stitch/Skipped stitch Causes: It appears due to improper handling of cut pieces or machine usage. 45
  • 46. Wavy/staggered stitching: Stitches are not straight. Remedies: 1. Needle to be changed 2. Needle size and thread size should be changed 3. Feed mechanism to be changed Causes: It appears due to improper handling of cut pieces, faulty feed mechanism, needle deflection or wrong needle etc. Wavy/staggered stitching 46
  • 47. Open seam or broken seam: Portion of the garment that has not been covered by sewing thread. Remedies: 1. Proper setting and timing between needle and looper or hook. 2. Proper handling of the parts of garments Causes: This happens due to improper handling of the parts of garments , improper setting and timing between needle and looper or hook etc. Open seam or broken seam 47
  • 48. Broken Stitch: Non-continuous sewing thread. Remedies: 1. Proper machine usage 2. proper trimming Broken Stitch Causes: It appears due to improper trimming or machine usage. 48
  • 49. Uncut/ loose thread: Extra thread or loose thread on seam line. Remedies: 1. Garments finishing should be checked properly. Uncut/ loose thread Causes: It appears due to improper trimming or finishing. 49
  • 50. Holes: Broken holes in the fabric where you are able to see through the fabric to the other side. Remedy: Better inspection of fabric and cut piece. Ensure that fabric and cut pieces that are not up to standard are not put into line and production is wasted. Replace not standard cut pieces with usable ones before input. Cause: Holes can come from fabric or it could be caused by the production side, either by improper trimming or broken needle puncturing the fabric. Holes 50
  • 51. Shading Variations within different parts: Seams appear to be lighter or darker than the other seams surrounding it. Remedies: After cutting the garment parts must be kept in proper bundle with number. Causes: It arises due to improper cutting, bundling and numbering. Shading Variations within different parts 51
  • 52. Seams not aligned at crossing of seams: Seams are not lined up at intersection of seams. Remedy: When these defects starts to appear at close to 2% or 5 pieces, the production must be informed and the operator must re-trained in the proper usage of the machine. Seams not aligned at crossing of seams Cause: Defects generally come about either from improper handling of the cut piece. 52
  • 53. Others: Misaligned buttons and holes ,unfinished buttonhole, missing buttons, wrong placement of labels, hang tag, wrong folding or poor folding , improper packing into cartons – all these defects come from finishing section. Others 53
  • 54. Sizing defects: (Difference in measurement of various parts of garments), wrong placement of pocket, buttonhole, embroidery and prints , measurement discrepancy- all these problems come from pattern section. Poor ironing: if not sufficient, there might be creases and crinkles on garment surface and if ironing is too heavy, there might be shining mark on garment. misaligned buttons and holes ,unfinished buttonhole, missing buttons, wrong placement of labels, hang tag, wrong folding or poor folding , improper packing into cartons – all these defects come from finishing section. Others 54
  • 55. Trims, accessories and embellishment defects: These defects include color, size and placement of trims such as labels, sewing thread, screen print, embroidery designs, zipper, hangtag, lining, button and any kind of trims. Defects are given below: 1. Unmatched color of thread 2. Broken button and zipper tape 3. Short zippers 4. Faulty zippers 5. Wrong labels 6. Improper size of the labels 7. Printing mistake of labels and cartons 8. Broken poly bag 9. Wrong hanger 10. Improper embroideries and prints. Etc. Remedy: This type of defects occurred due to unawareness. That is why during production the garments should be checked properly (In line inspection) and the booking of trims &accessories must be given as like as artwork. Trims, accessories and embellishment defects: 55
  • 56. 3. Trims, accessories and embellishment defects: These defects include color, size and placement of trims such as labels, sewing thread, screen print , embroidery designs, zipper, hangtag, lining , button and any kind of trims. Defects are also classified (as per extent of defect) into Critical, Major and Minor defects. 1.Critical defects are defects that are not allowed to be shipped and are the most serious of defects (0%). 2. Major defects are serious defects that are not allowed over a certain percentage (3%) depending on buyers requirements 3. Minor defects are serious defects that are not allowed over a certain percentage (5%) depending on buyers requirements Trims, accessories and embellishment defects: 56
  • 57. 57