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TRIP TO RIVER STONE!
My Site
SPIDER
MILLIPEDE
DRAGONFLY
FISH
LIZARD
ANT
My Animal
MILLIPEDES
Species and
Habitat
Physical
Features
Eating
Habits
Exoskelet
on
Protectio
n
Toxic
Chemical
Protection
Millipedes
as
Pets
Pet
Millip
ede
Feedin
g
Species and Habitat
The name millipede translates into "thousand legs" and while
it may look like this multi-legged arthropod has that many tiny
limbs, the actual truth is that they tend to max out around the 750
leg mark. Its name is attributed to a family of insects made up of
more than 10,000 different species. Species of millipede can be found
around the world in locations offering access to soil, leaves, bark and
rotting wood.
Back
The millipede is characterized by a rounded body that resembles a tube.
This long, cylindrical body is divided into individual segments called diplosegments.
Each diplosegment is equipped with four legs. The millipede also features short
feelers. Despite having hundreds of legs, millipedes are not capable of moving very
quickly.
Most millipedes are brownish, blackish, or dark greenish, but many are pale
or pinkish. Others are brightly marked with yellow or red. The head has two pairs of
jaws. The eyes, if they have any at all, are simple and have only one lens each. The
antennae are short and seven-segmented. The bodies of millipedes are either
flattened, rounded, or dome-shaped in cross-section and divided into eleven to 192
segments, depending on age and species. The first and last body segments are always
legless.
Physical Features
Back
Eating Habits
Back
Millipedes are
slow eaters that
prefer to dine on
small bits of
roots, flowers or
buds of plants. In
addition to being
identified as
herbivores,
millipedes also
are considered
detritivores. This
term relates to
the addition to
the diet of old
Back
E
X
O
S
K
E
L
E
T
O
N
P
R
O
T
E
C
T
I
O
N
The ability for millipedes to protect themselves has
primarily to do with a very durable and robust
exoskeleton. This exoskeleton is further toughened
by the addition of calcium carbonate. When
contact is made with the millipede's exoskeleton
by a predator, it can respond by coiling up as a
means of fending off attack.
Toxic Chemical Protection
Back
Another way some species of millipedes respond to threats is to
produce toxic chemicals. Species like the giant millipede are
capable of releasing a small cloud of hydrogen cyanide gas that
can prove fatal to smaller enemies. Small vents located along
the sides of a millipede's body are the openings through which
the chemical weaponry is discharged.
Millipedes as Pets
Back
Millipedes can be kept as
pets as long as certain
precautions are taken. Those
species that produce toxic
secretions need to be
handled only when the
owner wears gloves. The
most popular choice of
millipedes for a pet are the
very large tropical species
found in rain forests. These
Back
Feeding pet millipedes should focus on their natural
diet of tropical plants that have been supplemented
with vitamins. The addition of vitamins and a
mineral supplement can significantly improve the
nutritional intake of a pet millipede and thus
lengthen its life span. Despite the fact that
millipedes prefer moldy plants in the wild, the
safest course in feeding a pet millipede is to change
out the chunks of fruit contents daily before it
becomes too moldy.
MY PLANT
SIZE
An Elephant Ear Plant can grow to
3 to 5 feet in height when fully
mature.
GENERAL CARE
Plant the elephant ear plant in
an area that receives partial
shade with nutrient-rich soil.
Keep the plant well watered.
Cold temperatures are not well
tolerated.
PROPAGATION
Dig up an existing plant to
propagate by dividing the
bulbs and roots in to three
separate sections. Replant all
sections and care for them as
normal.
The Elephant ear plant is a member of the Caladium family,
and is also a taro. It has huge leaves that are shaped like the ears of an
elephant. It can be poisonous to children or animals.
GEOGRAPHY
The Elephant Ear Plant is
native to parts of Asia. As a
perennial, it grows best in
USDA zones 8 to 11 (warmer
climate regions stretching from
Florida to Texas), but can be
grown as an annual in other
areas by digging up the bulb to
replant the following year.
FUN FACTS
The bulb of the Elephant Ear
Plant can be cooked and eaten
when mature by roasting or
frying. Young leaves are also
cooked and eaten in some
areas. The plant loses its
toxicity when cooked.
1) Before planting the elephant
ear tuber, wait until the danger of
frost is over and the temperature
averages 45ºF (7ºC) or more.
2) The adult elephant ear plant
will need at least 3 feet (1 meter)
of space, at a bare minimum, for
proper growth and show in a
relatively shady area. A really
healthy plant may need as much
as 5 feet (1-2 meters) of space.
3) Dig a hole, (if possible,
in rich organic soil) about
3-4 times the size of the
tuber.
4) Refill the hole as
necessary with loose soil
enough so that the tuber
will be about 1-2 inches
(2.5 to 5 cm.) below ground
level when planted.
5) Lay (plant) the tuber
with its top up - if in doubt,
plant the tuber sideways
and let nature figure it out!
6) Cover the tuber with soil
and water deeply. After
watering, about 1" to 2" (2.5
cm - 5 cm) of soil should
cover the tuber.
7) Mark the spot where
the tuber is planted.
8) Wait 1 to 3 weeks - maybe
more (depending upon air and
ground temperature) for first
growth to show.
9) Elephant ear plants perform
reasonably well in average
soil. Periodic fertilization
(every 2 to 4 weeks) with a
common plant fertilizer will
help them do their best.
10) Good drainage is a big
plus, but the plant should not
be left to go dry for any
length of time. When this
happens, the droopy leaves
will give early enough
warning for the plant to
recover nicely if watered
within a day.
11) At the peak of the warm
season, large, beautifully lush
foliage can grow to heights of
3 to 5 feet (1-1.6 meters). If
any leaves turn brown at the
edges, just cut away and new
ones will certainly grow.
12) The plant will start having
difficulties when the
temperature falls below 50ºF
(9-10ºC) or so for more than
a few days. Before freezing
temperatures take over, the
tuber (root system) will have
to be dug up.
13) A healthy plant will have
developed multiple new
tubers during the growing
season. It's best to leave
these intact during storage.
Separation will not do
significant damage though.
14) Trim most of the green
vegetation (top growth) off the
top of the tubers: leave no more
than half to 1 inch of leafy
growth on the tuber. Let the
freshly trimmed tubers sit in open
air so they can visibly dry out
before final storage. Drying out
will minimize the potential for
mold, and bacteria to develop.
15) Store the tuber during
the colder, winter months in
a cool, dry place (45-55ºF is
desirable). Don't store in a
plastic bag: a plain paper
bag with plenty of holes for
ventilation will do nicely, as
will storage in sphagnum
peat moss or garden
vermiculite.
16) When the warm season
comes around again,
separate the tubers as
necessary, plant anew and
enjoy!
PICTURES OF THE
RIVERSTONE’S RIVER
ICE CREAM TIME!
THE END

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Enbe slide show

  • 1. TRIP TO RIVER STONE!
  • 4.
  • 7. Species and Habitat The name millipede translates into "thousand legs" and while it may look like this multi-legged arthropod has that many tiny limbs, the actual truth is that they tend to max out around the 750 leg mark. Its name is attributed to a family of insects made up of more than 10,000 different species. Species of millipede can be found around the world in locations offering access to soil, leaves, bark and rotting wood. Back
  • 8. The millipede is characterized by a rounded body that resembles a tube. This long, cylindrical body is divided into individual segments called diplosegments. Each diplosegment is equipped with four legs. The millipede also features short feelers. Despite having hundreds of legs, millipedes are not capable of moving very quickly. Most millipedes are brownish, blackish, or dark greenish, but many are pale or pinkish. Others are brightly marked with yellow or red. The head has two pairs of jaws. The eyes, if they have any at all, are simple and have only one lens each. The antennae are short and seven-segmented. The bodies of millipedes are either flattened, rounded, or dome-shaped in cross-section and divided into eleven to 192 segments, depending on age and species. The first and last body segments are always legless. Physical Features Back
  • 9. Eating Habits Back Millipedes are slow eaters that prefer to dine on small bits of roots, flowers or buds of plants. In addition to being identified as herbivores, millipedes also are considered detritivores. This term relates to the addition to the diet of old
  • 10. Back E X O S K E L E T O N P R O T E C T I O N The ability for millipedes to protect themselves has primarily to do with a very durable and robust exoskeleton. This exoskeleton is further toughened by the addition of calcium carbonate. When contact is made with the millipede's exoskeleton by a predator, it can respond by coiling up as a means of fending off attack.
  • 11. Toxic Chemical Protection Back Another way some species of millipedes respond to threats is to produce toxic chemicals. Species like the giant millipede are capable of releasing a small cloud of hydrogen cyanide gas that can prove fatal to smaller enemies. Small vents located along the sides of a millipede's body are the openings through which the chemical weaponry is discharged.
  • 12. Millipedes as Pets Back Millipedes can be kept as pets as long as certain precautions are taken. Those species that produce toxic secretions need to be handled only when the owner wears gloves. The most popular choice of millipedes for a pet are the very large tropical species found in rain forests. These
  • 13. Back Feeding pet millipedes should focus on their natural diet of tropical plants that have been supplemented with vitamins. The addition of vitamins and a mineral supplement can significantly improve the nutritional intake of a pet millipede and thus lengthen its life span. Despite the fact that millipedes prefer moldy plants in the wild, the safest course in feeding a pet millipede is to change out the chunks of fruit contents daily before it becomes too moldy.
  • 15. SIZE An Elephant Ear Plant can grow to 3 to 5 feet in height when fully mature. GENERAL CARE Plant the elephant ear plant in an area that receives partial shade with nutrient-rich soil. Keep the plant well watered. Cold temperatures are not well tolerated. PROPAGATION Dig up an existing plant to propagate by dividing the bulbs and roots in to three separate sections. Replant all sections and care for them as normal. The Elephant ear plant is a member of the Caladium family, and is also a taro. It has huge leaves that are shaped like the ears of an elephant. It can be poisonous to children or animals.
  • 16. GEOGRAPHY The Elephant Ear Plant is native to parts of Asia. As a perennial, it grows best in USDA zones 8 to 11 (warmer climate regions stretching from Florida to Texas), but can be grown as an annual in other areas by digging up the bulb to replant the following year. FUN FACTS The bulb of the Elephant Ear Plant can be cooked and eaten when mature by roasting or frying. Young leaves are also cooked and eaten in some areas. The plant loses its toxicity when cooked.
  • 17. 1) Before planting the elephant ear tuber, wait until the danger of frost is over and the temperature averages 45ºF (7ºC) or more. 2) The adult elephant ear plant will need at least 3 feet (1 meter) of space, at a bare minimum, for proper growth and show in a relatively shady area. A really healthy plant may need as much as 5 feet (1-2 meters) of space.
  • 18. 3) Dig a hole, (if possible, in rich organic soil) about 3-4 times the size of the tuber. 4) Refill the hole as necessary with loose soil enough so that the tuber will be about 1-2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm.) below ground level when planted.
  • 19. 5) Lay (plant) the tuber with its top up - if in doubt, plant the tuber sideways and let nature figure it out! 6) Cover the tuber with soil and water deeply. After watering, about 1" to 2" (2.5 cm - 5 cm) of soil should cover the tuber.
  • 20. 7) Mark the spot where the tuber is planted. 8) Wait 1 to 3 weeks - maybe more (depending upon air and ground temperature) for first growth to show.
  • 21. 9) Elephant ear plants perform reasonably well in average soil. Periodic fertilization (every 2 to 4 weeks) with a common plant fertilizer will help them do their best. 10) Good drainage is a big plus, but the plant should not be left to go dry for any length of time. When this happens, the droopy leaves will give early enough warning for the plant to recover nicely if watered within a day.
  • 22. 11) At the peak of the warm season, large, beautifully lush foliage can grow to heights of 3 to 5 feet (1-1.6 meters). If any leaves turn brown at the edges, just cut away and new ones will certainly grow. 12) The plant will start having difficulties when the temperature falls below 50ºF (9-10ºC) or so for more than a few days. Before freezing temperatures take over, the tuber (root system) will have to be dug up.
  • 23. 13) A healthy plant will have developed multiple new tubers during the growing season. It's best to leave these intact during storage. Separation will not do significant damage though. 14) Trim most of the green vegetation (top growth) off the top of the tubers: leave no more than half to 1 inch of leafy growth on the tuber. Let the freshly trimmed tubers sit in open air so they can visibly dry out before final storage. Drying out will minimize the potential for mold, and bacteria to develop.
  • 24. 15) Store the tuber during the colder, winter months in a cool, dry place (45-55ºF is desirable). Don't store in a plastic bag: a plain paper bag with plenty of holes for ventilation will do nicely, as will storage in sphagnum peat moss or garden vermiculite. 16) When the warm season comes around again, separate the tubers as necessary, plant anew and enjoy!