1. APPLICATION OF DOWNSIZED TECHNOLOGY IN KHADI SECTOR – A
CASE STUDY
R.B.CHAVAN
Professor
Department of Textile Technology
Indian Institute of Technology
Hauz-Khas, New Delhi 110016
e-mail rbchavan@hotmail.com
ABSTRACT
The object of present paper is to provide technological inputs for improvement of
quality and marketability of khadi. A case study is presented to illustrate how a modern
technical intervention has improved the quality of khadi garments by the introduction of
soft and stiff finishing technologies eventually leading to establish a model production
unit in one of the khadi production institutions for the manufacture of finished khadi
garments with value addition. The philosophy adopted was not to invent new
technologies but to identify the well-established technologies, which are practiced in
textile mill sector and downsize these technologies to make them suitable for adaptation
in khadi sector.
Key words Khadi, Charkha, khadi garments, soft and stiff finishing, mercerization,
natural dye.
Introduction
Khadi is the cotton, wool or silk fabric produced in India by hand spinning and
hand weaving. In fact Mahatma Gandhi started his freedom movement with khadi as a
symbol of self-reliance and swaraj. Thus Mahatma Gandhi is not only the father of nation
but also the father of khadi. After independence an independent statutory body called
Khadi and Village Industries Commission popularly known as KVIC was constituted in
April 1957 under the act of Parliament. KVIC was charged with the responsibility to
plan, organize and implement the programme of promoting and developing khadi and
village industries. Presently khadi industry having the widest coverage under KVIC,
touches more than 1 lakh villages of India, and thus generating large-scale employment
opportunities to the needy people belonging to unskilled and skilled category.
Present Status
The question has often been asked can khadi survive in the present fast moving
world? There are serious threats for the survival of khadi. However, the spirit of khadi
can and should survive if sustained and planned efforts are made, particularly by
providing scientific technical inputs through indigenous R&D and dynamic marketing
strategies. It is envisaged that new technological inputs would help to produce good
quality khadi cloth not only for rural masses but also for the elite urban class. New

2. technical inputs would also generate employment opportunities for a large number of
unemployed and underemployed people in the villages.
Major technological issues
The major issues before the khadi sector are:
• Quality improvement at the pre-spinning, spinning, weaving and finished
product stage
• Machine design development and easy availability of spare parts at the
production centres
• New design inputs in woven and printed fabrics based on color forecasts
• Introduction of new technical inputs for value addition
• Improvement in dyeing techniques for better fastness properties
• Production planning according to market trends
• Aggressive marketing strategy
• Involvement of technically qualified personnel in khadi sector
• HRD programme on continuous basis
• Revamping of multi disciplinary training centers (MDTC) and khadi
vidhyalayas
• Improvement in working conditions at the production centres.
Involvement of IIT Delhi in KVIC activities
KVIC Mumbai sponsored a project for “Revamping of Jamnalal Bajaj Central
Research Institute (JBCRI) located at Wardha. The project is of three years duration
starting from April 2001. Through this project it is envisaged to establish an institute for
rural industrialization to be named as Mahatma Gandhi Institute for Rural
Industrialization. The broad objective of this project is to upgrade and accelerate the
process of rural industrialization of our country through science, technology and
managerial inputs, so that we can move towards Gandhian vision of sustainable village
economy and the products of khadi and village industry (KVI) sector can coexist with
those of main stream industrial sector and become equally popular in the country.
In order to do justice to the KVIC sponsored project the core group members
consisting of Prof. Rajendra Prasad (Principal investigator, Centre of Rural
Development), Prof. P.L.Dhar, Prof. R.R.Gaur (Mechanical Engineering), and Prof.
R.B.Chavan (Textile Department) divided research and Development inputs required by
KVI sector into six generic areas:
1. Khadi and Textile industry
2. Chemical products
3. Bio-processing based industry
4. Rural infrastructure and energy
5. Rural crafts and engineering
6. Management and systems.
Each of these sections would respond to all the needs of production, quality
assurance, product diversification, marketing etc. of the products that come under its
purview. They would also be responsible for preparing and continually updating the

3. database of available technologies and scientific and technical experts available in the
country in their area of work.
Khadi and Textile group.
In the present paper the activities of Khadi and Textile group from Department of
Textile Technology, IIT Delhi are highlighted.
Initial survey of khadi institutions
In order to get an idea of khadi production and the major technical problems, it
was essential to visit some of the khadi production units, 10 khadi production units in
the vicinity of Delhi were visited. Following major problems were identified
1. Considerable scope for improvement in quality of khadi fabric
2. Production not according to market demands
3. No design and product development inputs
4. Huge stock of unsold khadi
5. Poor technical manpower and infrastructure.
6. Total lack of research and development concept
Identification of R & D projects for khadi development
The visits to the khadi institutions helped to formulate the R & D projects. The
foremost considerations in formulating such projects were
1. Provide technical inputs to improve quality, productivity, and marketability
and to reduce drudgery in khadi production
2. To improve technical skills through exhaustive training programmes.
3. Planning for long-term technical inputs for visible impact in khadi sector.
Philosophy of R & D Projects
It was thought that the identified projects should show immediate visible impact
in terms of improvement in quality of khadi fabrics and garments and should improve the
marketability of khadi. From this point of view it was thought to identify the well-
established technologies practiced in textile mill sector where the production is done on
large scale (mass production), downsize these technologies to make them suitable for
khadi sector, which operates on the basis of production by masses. The methodology for
identified R & D projects therefore, consisted of three phases
Phase I
Standardization and downsizing the well-established technology practiced in the textile
mill sector.
Phase II
Part one
Technology demonstration of downsized technology to the invitees from khadi sector
identified by KVIC
Part two
Technology demonstration on all India basis in selected khadi production units.

4. Phase III
Setting up model production unit in one of khadi production institutions.
Having convinced with this philosophy, following projects were identified.
1. Finishing of khadi garments and fabrics
2. Dyeing with natural dyes
3. Mercerization of khadi yarn
4. Preparation of quality assurance manual
Initial problem in initiating R & D Projects
It was thought that the easiest way to initiate the R & D projects is through
M.Tech student projects. However, no M.Tech student was willing to work on the project
relevant to khadi. Their apprehension was that working on the khadi related project
means working in the area of low technology and blocking the career opportunities. The
students felt that they may not get a job in well-organized textile sector. A great deal of
efforts was made to convince the students to work for their M.Tech projects relevant to
khadi. Two M.Tech students were persuaded to work on finishing of khadi garments and
mercerization of khadi yarn as their M.Tech projects.
It is heartening to mention that these two students who very reluctantly agreed to
work on khadi projects, one of the students got job in one of the reputed textile mills,
Arvind Mills, Ahmedabad and the second student was selected by the international
dyestuff manufacturing company, Clariant, Switzerland.
Finishing of khadi garments and fabrics
During the visits to khadi institutions it was observed that the major concern of
khadi sector was the problem of huge stock of unsold khadi. It was thought that in order
to make the visible impact, it would be essential to deal with this problem of khadi sector.
The khadi stock piling was mainly due to poor appearance and handle of khadi fabrics
and garments. One of the techniques to improve the fabric appearance and handle is to
subject the khadi fabrics and garments to modern finishing treatments. Following
finishing technologies practiced in the mill sector were identified
1. Soft finishing
2. Stiff finishing
3. Stone less stone wash finish
4. Enzyme finishing or bio-polishing
5. Wrinkle free finishing of polyvastra
Identification of downsized machines
The main purpose was to downsize the technology to make it suitable for khadi
sector. The choice of sophisticated machines used in the mill sector was therefore out of
question. Keeping this in view the machines identified for this project were commonly
available domestic washing machine with temperature control, hydroextractor and tumble
dryer.

5. Washing machine Tumble dryer
Machines used for Khadi garment finishing standardization and Technology
demonstration
Phase I
Standardization of Technology at IIT Delhi
Contribution by the M.Tech student
The M.Tech student as a part of his thesis standardized the above finishing
techniques on the downsized scale. He also contributed in writing a book on Finishing of
Khadi garments. This book gives a step-by-step procedure for the finishing of khadi
garments, which can easily be followed by the layman. The book also contained the
names and addresses of chemical suppliers to facilitate the adoption of technology by the
khadi sector.
A book on finishing of khadi garments
Eco-friendly Chemicals
Since khadi is considered to be eco friendly, in order to maintain its eco
friendliness, the chemicals chosen for the various finishing treatments were eco-friendly

6. Soft finish
This is achieved by using amino silicone softeners. Many khadi fabrics are rough/
harsh to handle, whereas, the market demand is for soft and smooth fabric. This finish
makes the khadi fabric soft and smooth to handle, so that its marketability is improved.
The finish is durable to several washes.
Stiff finish
This is achieved by using polyvinyl acetate emulsion commercially available from
various textile auxiliary manufacturers. Khadi garments especially kurta and pyjama are
subjected to starch treatment to impart stiffness and smooth appearance. However, the
stiffness produced by starch is not durable. Therefore after every wash starching process
is essential. This adds to the maintenance cost of khadi garments. The polyvinyl acetate
treatment imparts more durable stiffness, which lasts up to 10-15 washes. This means
there is no need of giving stiff finish after every wash. The garment acquires stiff and
smooth appearance after ironing (pressing) of washed garments. Thus the maintenance
cost of the garments is reduced considerable.
Enzyme finish
This finish is given by using cellulase enzyme, which causes the surface
dissolution of cotton when applied under controlled condition. This treatment makes the
garment soft with lustrous. It is the most popular treatment in the textile sector.
Stoneless stone wash finish
This treatment imparts abraded (worn-out) look to the dyed garments, which is in
vogue for fashion garments. This is most popular treatment for the garments meant for
younger generation of both the sexes. The purpose of introducing this technique in the
khadi sector was to make khadi garments popular amongst the younger generation so that
the sale of khadi is enhanced. This is archived by using a special system developed for
pigment dyeing.
Wrinkle free finish
For high value garments this finish is most popular. However, one of the
drawbacks of this finish is the heavy loss in strength of the fabric. Therefore, use of this
finish is suggested to polyvastra rather than cotton khadi garments. The advantage of the
finish is easy ironing and smooth appearance of the garments after repeated washing.
Phase II (Part one)
Technology demonstration on finishing of khadi garments
After standardization of khadi garment finishing techniques, the technology
demonstration workshop of three days was conducted at the Department of Textile
Technology, IIT Delhi. The participants were senior representatives of khadi production
units on all India basis, senior technical officers from KVIC, representatives from khadi
bhandars and NGO.
All the five finishing techniques mentioned above were demonstrated using
domestic washing machine and tumble dryer. A book on “Finishing of Khadi garments

7. giving a step by step procedure of the finishing techniques were distributed to all the
participants.
The participants took keen interest in the technology demonstration. They were
enthused and more than satisfied with the technology demonstration workshops.
Concluding session of the workshop
On the third day the concluding session was organized to get the feed back of the
participants. Dr. Mahesh Sharma, Chairman, KVIC was present. The unanimous feed
back from the participants was that all the five finishing techniques would give value
addition to khadi garments. However out of five techniques the two, viz. stiff and soft
finishing techniques can be immediately adopted and introduced in the khadi sector.
Phase II (Part two)
Technology demonstration workshop on all India basis
Having satisfied with the technology demonstration workshop at IIT Delhi,
KVIC, Mumbai approved a series of technology demonstration workshops to be
conducted at selected khadi production units on all India basis. Over a period of few
months the technology demonstration workshops on stiff and soft finishing of khadi
garments were conducted at the following khadi production units in different states.
Uttar Pradesh
1. Central Sliver Plant, Etah
2. Kshetriya Shri Gandhi Ashram, Barabanki
3. Kshetriya Shri Gandhi Ashram, Saharanpur
Maharashtra
4. Magan wadi , Wardha
5. Marathwada Khadi Gr. Samitee, Nanded
Rajasthan
6. Kshetriya Khadi Gramodyog Samittee, Dausa
Tamilnad
7. Padyur Sarvodaya Sangh, Padyur
Jharkhand
8. Chhotanagpur Khadi Gramodyog. Sansthan, Tiril, Ranchi
Conducting the workshops
At all the khadi production units the technology demonstration of Finishing of
Khadi garments was carried out with the help of 5 kg domestic washing machine. The
representatives of khadi production units and senior regional officers from KVIC very
well attended all the workshops. After the practical demonstration on the first day, the
finished and unfinished garments were circulated among the participants for their
assessment of the improvement in quality and appearance brought about by the finishing
techniques. After this the feed back from the representatives of each participating khadi

8. production unit and KVIC officers was discussed. During the feedback emphasis was
given on the following aspects
1. Do the finishing techniques make appreciable difference in the quality and
appearance of khadi garments and fabrics?
2. Whether the consumers would like the finished khadi garments/fabrics?
3. Whether there would be increase in khadi sale after finishing
4. Can the additional cost incurred in finishing be absorbed in the sale price?
5. Will the finishing techniques help in reducing the stock of khadi?
6. How individual khadi institutions can implement the finishing techniques in their
respective units?
It is heartening to mention that there was overwhelming positive feedback for aspects
1-5 mentioned above. However one of the major apprehensions was the availability of
funds for the purchase of appropriate production equipments for the implementation of
finishing techniques. .
In view of the above feed back the technical team from IIT Delhi made
recommendation to KVIC Mumbai to approve the funds for setting up a model
production unit at one of the khadi production units. This unit may be used as a common
facility center for finishing khadi garments and khadi fabrics for the benefit of
neighbouring khadi prodution units. It was also recommended that such model unit might
be set up at Kshetriya Shri Gandhi Ashram, Barabanki (UP).
Choice of Kshetriya shri Gandhi Ashram Barabanki
The choice of Kshetriya Shri Gandhi Ashram, Barabanki was justified on the
following grounds
1. The unit already has basic infrastructure for khadi fabric processing. Only few
additional of equipment were necessary.
2. Very competent dyeing manager and his team.
3. The unit has shown technical leadership, because among the 8 technology
demonstration workshops conducted at various khadi institutions, this institution,
had very successfully implemented the finishing technology on commercial scale.
4. The unit also has a khadi vidyalaya where the courses on khadi production are
taught at the certificate/diploma level. This makes the ideal place for the unit for
product development through student projects using innovative minds of young
generation
5. The institution has adequate space for setting up the model unit.
It was also suggested to KVIC that based on the experience of the model khadi fabric/
garment finishing unit, additional finishing units on zonal basis as common facility
centers may be commissioned.
Phase III
Technology transfer
Model khadi fabric and garment finishing unit

9. It is heartening to mention that KVIC appreciated the idea technology transfer by
setting up a model unit at Kshetriya Shri Gandhi Ashram, Barabanki. A grant of Rs.
12.55 lakh was approved for a garment-finishing unit with a capacity for finishing
500-800 garments per day. The technical team from Department of Textile Technology,
IIT Delhi, KVIC State Directorate, Lucknow, Secretary and technical staff from
Kshetriya Shri Gandhi Ashram, Barabanki, worked cohesively in close collaboration with
each other. The following machines were identified and ordered from the of the reputed
machine manufacturers and were installed.
Machine Number
1. Garment finishing machine One
2. Hydro-extractor One
3. Tumble dryer One
4. Steam press boiler One
5. Garment pressing tables Three
6. Steam press for garment pressing Three
7. Automatic jiggers Two
Modern garment finishing unit
Inauguration
On June 2, 2003, Honorable Union State Minister for Agriculture and Rural
industries, Shri Sanghpriya Gautam inaugurated the Khadi Garment finishing unit and
also the exhibition of khadi and village industries products. During the inaugural speech
the honourable minister expressed his happiness for the technical inputs in the khadi
sector and giving it a new lease of life. The minister said that these technical inputs
would attract the younger generation and many others towards khadi, which should help
to boost the sale of khadi and regain its employment generation potentialities. He
congratulated KVIC, Secretary, Kshetriya Shri Gandhi Ashram Barabanki and technical
team from Department of Textile Technology, IIT Delhi for coming forward to set up the
modern Khadi garment-finishing unit. He expressed the desire to set up such modern
units in different regions.

10. Honourable Union State Minister for Agriculture and Rural Industries,
Inaugurating the Model Khadi Garment-finishing unit.
Media coverage
As many as 10 newspapers from Lucknow and 3 newspapers, from Barabanki
covered the event. Majority of the papers written that it is the first attempt to modernize
the khadi sector which would go a long way in improving the status of khadi in terms of
its marketability. Some of the newspaper headlines were as follows:
1. Modernization of khadi unit renews hopes (Hindustan Times)
2. India’s first khadi finishing unit at Barabanki (Pioneer)
3. Hi-tech unit to give khadi wings (Indian Express)
4. India’s first modern model khadi finishing unit inaugurated (Times of India)
Similar glowing headlines were given by Hindi newspapers such as Jansatta,
Swatantra Bharat, Aaj, Dainik Jagran, Hindustan, Amar Ujala, Rashtriya Sahara etc.
Other projects
Other projects ready for technology transfer are
1. Mercerization of khadi yarn
2. Dyeing of cotton, wool and silk khadi with natural dyes.
3. Blending of acrylic with Merino wool for the shawl manufacture.
In addition, a Quality assurance manual for khadi has been prepared.
Conclusion
1. The philosophy of identifying the well established technologies practiced in the
textile mill sector (mass production) and downsizing these technologies to make
them suitable for khadi sector (production by masses) has been found to be
successful.
2. Through phased manner i.e. standardization of downsized technology in the
laboratory, technology demonstration at IIT Delhi, technology demonstration on
all India basis, and technology transfer, it was possible to transfer the technology
of finishing of khadi fabrics and khadi garments in the khadi sector.
3. The new technology has shown visible impact in terms of value addition and
increase in the sale of khadi garments.
4. A quality assurance manual has been prepared to introduce the concept of quality
in khadi sector.

11. 5. Attempts are being made to transfer the technology of mercerization of khadi
yarn, dyeing of khadi fabric with natural dyes and blending of acrylic with Merino
wool for the shawl manufacture.
Acknowledgement
IIT Delhi acknowledges with many thanks the Chairman, KVIC for
sponsoring the project “Revamping of Jamnalal Bajaj Central Research Institute at
Wardha (Maharashtra)” and to set up Mahatma Gandhi institute of rural
industrialization at Wardha. The author is thankful to the core group members Prof.
Rajendra Prasad, Prof. Dhar and Prof. Gaur for their encouragement and support to
the activities of khadi group. The author is also thankful to the members of khadi
group Prof. Chattopadhya, Shri R.P.Tewari and the technical staff of the project for
their active participation and healthy discussions.