Tejas krishna_apparel_internship_report

Report on Apparel Internship
At
Everblue Apparels Ltd, Doddaballapur
A dissertation submitted in partial Fulfilment of
the requirement for the award of Degree in
Masters of Fashion Technology
Submitted by
Tejas M P (MFT/17/65)
Under the guidance of
Dr. Sudha Singh
Associate Professor NIFT Bengaluru
Mr. Kapil Jain
Deputy Manager(Product Development)
Everblue Apparels LTD
Department of Fashion Technology
National Institute of Fashion Technology Bengaluru - 560102
October, 2018

i
Abstract
Nowadays in this dynamic and technological world, the secret of surviving for any kind of
organization is to be competitive and pioneer in its products or services. One of the main parts of
this way to succeed is continuous improvement and increasing the quality of product or service.
Usually, this improvement has been achieved through implementation of best practices which are
chosen to meet a particular objective. 5S is a way to improve the performance and organize the
whole system. 5S is a system which reduces work and optimizes productivity and quality through
maintaining an orderly workplace. The benefits of good workplace include the prevention of
defects; prevention of accidents; and the elimination of time wasted for searching tools,
documentation and other ingredients of manufacture. The 5S is the methodology of creating and
maintaining well organized, clean, high effective and high quality workplace. Its result is the
effective organization of the workplace, elimination of losses connected with failures and
breakdowns in machines, improvement of the quality and safety of work. The implementation of
5S is crucial as it serves as stepping stones to create a strong housekeeping culture in the
organization.

ii
Acknowledgement
It has always been my sincere desire as a technology student to get an opportunity to express my
views, skills, attitude, and talent in which I am proficient. An apparel internship is one such
avenue through which a student who aspires to be a future manager does something creative. This
apparel internship has given me the chance to get in touch with the practical aspects of research.
I am extremely grateful to the National Institute of Fashion Technology, Bengaluru for having
prescribed this apparel internship work to me as a part of the academic requirement in the Masters
of Fashion Technology (MFT) course.
I wish to thank my Project Institute Guide, Dr. Sudha Singh, CC-MFT, Associate
Professor and Industry Mentor, Mr. Kapil Jain (Deputy Manager, Product Development,) &
Mr.Antony Raj (Manager, Maintenance Dept) Raymond UCO denim Pvt ltd for guiding me
throughout the project and without whose support; the project may not have taken shape. I would
also like to thank Mohammed Farman, Dharani, Sabari, Hari Prakash, Sudeep, Kevin,
Sushila, Tasvi (I E Executives) Raymond UCO denim Pvt ltd for all their support and help.
I sincerely wish to extend my special thanks to all the teachers for providing me all the necessary
information regarding the topics and guiding me in my project as well.

iii
TABLE OF CONTENT
CHAPTER
NO
TITLE PAGE
NO.
ABSTARACT I
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT II
TABLE OF CONTENTS III
LIST OF FIGURES VIII
LIST OF TABLES IX
1 INTRODUCTION 1
1.1 Objective of Summer Internship 1
1.2 Statement of Study 1
1.3 Significance of Study 1
1.4 Role of Garment Industry in Indian GDP 1
1.5 Occupations Provided By the Industry 2
1.6 Organization structure 3
1.7 Merchandising Brands 4
1.8 Process flow of denim division 4
2 DEPARTMENTS 5
2.1 Design and Development 5
2.1.1 Departmental Hierarchy 5
2.1.2 Showroom 5
2.2 Merchandising 6
2.2.2 Marketing & Merchandising 6
2.2.3 Product Merchandising 7
2.3 Sampling Department 8
2.3.1 Sampling Department Process Flow 8
2.4 Computer Aided Design Department 9
2.4.1 CAD Department Man Power 10
2.5 Planning Department 10
2.5.1 Pre-Production Activity 10
2.6 Fabric Store 11

iv
2.6.1 Function: 11
2.6.2 Checking: 11
2.6.3 Visual fabric standard for large and small rolls: 12
2.6.4 Process Flow of Fabric Store 13
2.7 Trim & Accessory Stores Department 15
2.7.1 Process selection 15
2.7.2 Production issues 15
2.7.3 Process flow chart 16
2.8 Cutting Department 17
2.8.1 Work Process Flow Of Cutting Department: 17
2.8.2 Process flow chart 18
2.8.3 Spreading 18
2.8.4 Marker Making 19
2.8.5 Cutting 19
2.8.6 Sorting and Ticketing 19
2.8.7 Cut panel Checking 20
2.8.8 Bundling 20
2.8.9 Fusing 20
2.8.10 Quality checking process 21
2.9 Embroidery Department 22
2.9.1 Functioning of the department 22
2.9.2 Types of stitches 22
2.9.3 Embroidery Threads 22
2.9.4 Time taken for initial set up (12 pcs) 23
2.9.5 Process Flow 23
2.10 Sewing Department 24
2.10. 1 Operation Bulletin 24
2.10.2 Machine Layout 26
2.10.3 Batch Setting 26
2.10.4 Bundle Movement 27
2.10.6 End Line Inspection 27
2.10.7 In Line Audit 27
2.10.8 End-Line Audit 28
2.10.9 Folders 28

v
2.11 Product development washing department 29
2.11.1 Introduction to the department 29
2.11.2 Procedure 29
2.11.3 The changes occur due to the following actions 29
2.11.4 Objective of garment washing 29
2.11.5 Characteristics of denim fabric 30
2.11.6 General Classification of denim fabric 30
2.11.7 Washing process 31
2.11.8 Denim Bleaching 32
2.11.9 Limitations of denim bleaching 33
2.11.10 Enzyme Wash 33
2.12 Quality Assurance Department 36
2.12.1 Functioning of the Department 36
2.12.2 Pre-production audit 36
2.12.3 CAD 36
2.12.4 Cutting audit 37
2.12.5 Quality Assurance Followed on the Stitching Floor 37
2.12.6 Washing and finishing Section 38
2.12.7 Output 38
2.12.8 Reports maintained for Quality 38
2.13 Finishing Department 39
2.13.1 Functioning of the Department 39
2.13.1.1 Semi – pressing 39
2.13.1.2 Trimming 39
2.13.1.3 Thread Sucking 39
2.13.1.4 Pressing 39
2.13.1.5 Measurement checking 39
2.13.1.6 Final checking 40
2.13.1.7 Tagging section 40
2.13.1.8 Packing 40
2.13.1.9 Solid Packing 40
2.13.1.10 Ratio Packing 41
2.13.1.11 Mixed Packing 41
2.13.1.12 Measurement Checking 42

vi
2.13.2 Offering to buyer Q.A person 42
2.13.3 Procedure and Activities Involved in the Shipment Process 42
2.14 Effluent Treatment Plant 44
2.14.1 Need Of ETP 44
2.14.2 Design of ETP 44
2.14.3 Treatment Levels & Mechanisms of ETP 45
2.14.4 Activated Sludge Process 45
2.14.5 Flow chart for ETP 46
3 PROJECT 47
3.1 Reduction in production loss due to cut parts missing 47
3.1.1 Introduction 47
3.1.2 Problem statement 47
3.1.3 Scope of the project 47
3.1.4 Objectives 47
3.1.5 Primary Data collection 48
3.1.6 Workplace 50
3.1.7 Cutting Tables 51
3.1.8 Aisle Space 52
3.1.9 Tracking Inventory 53
3.1.9.1 Introduction 53
3.1.9.2 The General Description 54
3.1.9.3 Software Perspective 54
3.2 Reduction Fabric issuing time for Cutting 56
3.2.4 Objectives 56
3.2.5 Steps Taken to reduce the searching time 56
3.3 Modification of Bin cards & removed NVA in process. 60
3.3.4 Objectives 60
3.4 New work aid Improvement of Pocket Ironing 62
3.4.4 Objectives 62
3.5 Introduced Red Tag Area in the production floor 65
3.5.1 5’S 65
3.5.2 Observations and problem identincation 65
3.5.3 Objectives 65
3.5.4 Methodology adopted 66
3.5.5 Disposition of Red Tagged Items 67

vii
3.6 Reducing Man power in Cutting & Finishing Departments 68
3.6.1 Cutting section Man power Budgeting. 68
3.6.2 Finishing Department Man power Budgeting 69
3.7 Implemented Preventive Maintenance Card to
Machines
71
3.7.1 Implementation of Preventive Maintenance (PM) 71
3.7.2 Issues Involved In The Uneffective Preventive Maintenance 72
3.7.3 Analysis of effective PM using Tree diagram 73
3.7.4 SNLS Machine 74
3.7.5 Band knife Machine 75
3.7.6 Fusing Machine 76
4 CONCLUSION 77
5 REFERENCES 78

viii
LIST OF FIGURES
Figure
no.
Title Page no.
1 Showroom 5
2 Inspection machine 13
3 Fabric ware house 14
4 Fabric ware house 14
5 Cutting Department 21
6 Embroidery machine 22
7 Sewing Floor 28
8 Jeanologia 34
9 Scrapping 35
10 Whiskering 35
11 Sludge Process 45
12 ETP Flow Chart 46
13 Work place Before 50
14 Work place After 50
15 Cutting tables before 51
16 Cutting tables after 51
17 AISLE space before 52
18 AISLE space After 52
19 Racks without Numbering 57
20 Racks with Numbering 57
21 Board Under Implementation 58
22 Implemented Board for writing Roll Numbers 58
23 Cross verifying Board by IE executive 59
24 Bin card 60
25 Sticker card 60
26 Newly developed Bin card 61
27 Newly developed Bin card on fabric lot 61
28 Ironing pocket with normal Template. 62
29 Ironing pocket with advanced work aid Template. 63
30 Developed work aid Template 63
31 RED Tag 66
32 Maintenance Hold Tag 66
33 Red Tagged Area With Tags 67
34 Issues Involved In The Uneffective Preventive Maintenance 72
35 Analysis of effective PM using Tree diagram 73

ix
LIST OF TABLES
Table no. Title Page no.
1 CAD Department man power 10
2 4 point System 12
3 4 point system Procedure 13
4 Plotter details 19
5 Operation Breakdown 26
6 Washing Machine Details 31
7 Enzyme Bleach recipe 34
8 Auditing criteria 37
9 Role retrival time 56
10 Role retrival time after implementation 59
11 Pocket ironing comparison 64
12 Comparision of SORT States 66
13 Cutting Dept Man Power Budgeting 68
14 Finishing Dept Man Power Budgeting 69
15 Finishing Dept Man Power Budgeting 70

1
CHAPTER 1
INTRODUCTION
Garment Industry is kind of a field where practical knowledge and personal experience
matters the most in tackling critical situations and taking major decisions. Thus on job
experience is much needed along with through subject knowledge.
1.1 Objective of Summer Internship
 To gain practical exposure on real life on job experience.
 To apply the theoretical class room knowledge in practical situations.
 It aims toward blending the theoretical knowledge with work experience.
 To observe the process flow from order placement till shipment.
 Learn the various manufacturing process.
 To work on a mutually identified problem or assignment or project and work on it.
1.2 Statement of Study
To study the garment manufacturing process thoroughly, to observe and execute
different department functions and to execute small projects/assignments as per organizational
need.
1.3 Significance of Study
The study will help in gaining hands on experience on various manufacturing processes like
cutting, sewing, finishing, checking, data generation and use of IT tools in various stages of
garment manufacturing.
1.4 Role of Garment Industry in Indian GDP
The garment industry comprises manufacturers of ready-made garments for both the domestic
and export markets. This sector is one of the largest employers after agriculture and its
importance in India’s economy is recognized for its contribution to industrial production and
export earnings.
The Apparel Manufacturing Industry transforms fabrics produced by textile manufacturers into
clothing and accessories that fill the retail stores. By cutting and sewing fabrics or other
materials, such as leather, rubberized fabrics, plastics, and furs, workers in this industry help to
keep consumers warm, dry and in style.

2
The apparel industry traditionally has consisted mostly of production workers who
performed the cutting and sewing functions in an assembly line. This industry remains labor-
intensive, despite advances in technology and workplace practices. Although many workers still
perform this work in the United States, the industry increasingly contracts out its production
work to foreign suppliers to take advantage of lower labor costs in other countries. In its place, a
growing number of apparel manufacturers are performing only the entrepreneurial functions
involved in apparel manufacturing such as buying raw materials, designing clothes and
accessories and preparing samples, arranging for the production and distribution of the apparel,
and marketing the finished product.
As the opportunity increases the competition also increases. India is getting tough completion
from China, Sri Lanka and Bangladesh because of cheap labour and government policies. The
textile and apparel manufacturing industries are rapidly modernizing, as new investments in
automation and information technology have been made necessary by growing international
competition.
1.5 Occupations Provided By the Industry
The textile industry offers employment opportunities in a variety of occupations, but production
occupations accounted for 64 percent of all jobs. Some of these production occupations are
unique to the industry. Additional opportunities also exist in material-moving, administrative
support, maintenance, repair, management, and professional occupations. The industry also
employs a small number of workers in service and sales occupations.

4
1.7 Merchandising Brands
Raymond UCO has been catering to major denim players since its establishment. Brands like
Lee, Levis, Scotch & soda, Wrangler, DKNY, Jack & Jones, Guess, Gap, etc.
Not only has Raymond been trusted with huge production orders for the quality work that it
offers, it also has always been the “Go-to” destination for any new development or styling.
1.8 Process flow of denim division

5
CHAPTER 2
DEPARTMENTS
2.1 Design and Development
Dedicated team for new and ingenious product development for multiple buyers. Denim
technicians are always experimenting with various development techniques to bring to the table a
whole new set of ideas-turned-reality. Raymond showcases the collection in various Trade shows
like Denim by Premiere Vision, Munich Fabric Start etc.
2.1.1 Departmental Hierarchy:-
2.1.2 Showroom
Raymond UCO showroom hosts buyer’s meetings in order to showcase the latest
developed styles.
Figure 1 Showroom
Product
Development
Head
Asst. Designer Asst. Designer Asst. Designer

6
2.2 Merchandising
Merchandising is a process through which products are planned, developed, executed and
presented to the buyer. It includes directing and overseeing the development of product line from
start to finish. Marketing and merchandising department: A team of merchandisers and marketers
work together under a profit controls head. Merchandisers handle the foreign buyers. The teams
are made according to the buyers being handled.
Two type of merchandising is done in garment exports:
 Marketing merchandising.
 Product merchandising.
2.2.2 Marketing & Merchandising:
Main function of marketing merchandising is
 Product Development
 Costing
 Ordering
Marketing merchandising is to bring orders, costing, product development and it has direct
contact with the buyer
Marketing head
Syed Parvez
Marketing
Manager (prabhu
Sankar)
Asst Manager
Asst Manager
Marketing
Manager
(Shital)
Asst Manager
Asst Manager
Marketing
Manager
(Gopal)
Asst Manager
Asst Manager
Marketing
Manager
(Ratnesh)
Asst Manager
Asst Manager

7
2.2.3 Product Merchandising
Product merchandising is done in the unit. This includes all the responsibilities from sourcing to
finishing i.e. first sample onwards, the products merchandising work start and ends till shipment
2.2.4 Process Flow of Merchandising Department

8
2.3 Sampling Department
In any export house, the sampling department is one of the most important departments and it
plays a vital in the uplifting of a unit.
Sampling department directly co-ordinates with the merchandising and production department.
Sampling is done to see how the product will look like when produced in bulk and to check
whether there are any discrepancies in the pattern are made according to the buyer’s
specification.
2.3.1 Sampling Department Process Flow
Production File Released

9
2.4 Computer Aided Design Department
Sampling
Manager
Size set
supervisor
Cutters (2)
Embroidery &
printing in-
charge (1)
Sewing operator
(17)
sampling
supervisor
Sewing
operators(43)
Helpers(5)
Ironers(2)
Sampling
assistant
Fabric in charge
(1)
Cutting
operators(3)
Embroidery &
printing in-
charge (1)
Quality in-
charge
QA's (8)

10
2.4.1 CAD Department Man Power
Pattern developer 1
Marker maker 1
Asst. marker maker 5
Asst. pattern maker 5
Table 1 CAD Department man power
2.5 Planning Department
Planning department has a vital role to play in the approval of the order and helps the
merchants. The major function is to determine, whether the company is capable of producing
the particular style in the given span of time and also helps them to know the capacity of the
production floor.
Raymond UCO denim has a good planning department which does the planning and allocates the
styles to the particular lines according to its capacity of those lines.
2.5.1 Pre-Production Activity
Pattern checking before releasing to bulk
Zero size set - covering all rolls without original trims & shrinkage addedactual
sizeset - covering al rolls with original trims & adding shrinkage
PP sample - base size (ensure salesman sample comments etc followed)
Fit - check as per approved sampe & full tech pack received from buyer (all proto
comments to be incorporated)
Salesman sample - like bulk production with one size all original trims/fabric(ensure
all fit comments are followed)
Proto check as per sketch & technical details provided by buyer(sample yardges fabric
used)
Develop samples check for workmanship & styles as per designers
requirements

11
2.6 Fabric Store
2.6.1 Function:
Once the raw materials or the fabric is been sent by the supplier to the company and once they
reach in-house the concerned person keeps the track of all the documents and material, he/she
checks the quantity of the material in-house and the material ordered and cross checks i.e., he
checks the materials against invoice/ DC / Packing list.
After confirmation he enters the details in the ERP in the GRN (Goods Received Note). After
preparing the GRN they have to do the bill entry and keep the record and maintain the document
of whatever the slips received or delivered. Then the entries are forwarded to the office for the
checking and payment. Then after preparing the GRN of everything that has been received a
process selection is been made which involves two steps that goes hand in hand. They are
described as follows,
2.6.2 Checking:
In this step the work order is being prepared and also the delivery of goods and the formalities
regarding the goods has to be carried out. All this happens in the process of receiving the goods
to in house, there has to be another action which the fabric stores has to take care of is the
situation of delivering the fabrics to the other units and also to the cutting department of the
same unit. This department receives the required documents of production issues/ exports and
similar other related aspects from the merchants and then as soon as they receive this they enter
the details of the PO/ Export / Process follow ups into the ERP.
The department then checks the material availability with respect to the PO and other documents
as per the merchants given details. Then they look at the production issues / Export and as per
that two things are done. First, they pick the material as per the approval that would have been
given by the Fabric audit department and then they prepare the delivery challan and keep it ready
for issue to the unit. Finally, at the end of both the cases the materials has to be issued after its
inspection by security line with DC that would have been given by the fabric audit department.
This fabric audit department will play a role in both issuing the materials.

12
2.6.3 Visual fabric standard for large and small rolls:
4 Point Grading System:
A. Fabric will be graded using the 4 point system. All defects between selvedges, which are
clearly visible from one meter and not considered a part of the character of a particular fabric
by LS & CO and supplier shall be scored as defects and dement point assigned according to
severity.
B. Demerits point shall be assigned to warp and filling defects as follows:-
1 point-defects 7.5 cm or less
2 point-defects exceeding 7.5cm up to 15cm
3 point-defects exceeding 15cm up to 22.5cm
4 point-defects exceeding cm 22.5cm
C. No linear meter shall be penalized more than 4 points
D. All holes regardless of size shall be assigned 4 points
E. Individual rolls and shipments shall be the within the point level of classified group
Table2. 4 point System
Point computation shall be performed using following formula
(Total points/Sample length by width)*100 = points/100 sq. mt.
4 point inspection procedure:
 The received fabric will be allocated as per the indent raised
 Invoice wise roll checking will be done 20% of each sort number
 The minimum cuttable width measured between the needle holes of the selvedges end
must be checked at least 3 times on the each roll
 Roll length stated on the roll sticker must be verified against the actual roll length
measured by the fabric checking machine
 Rolls that emit an unpleasant odour has failed
 The 4 point system is named from the basic grading rule
 Regardless of length/size or number of defects, no more than 4 penalty points maybe
assigned on any linear meter/yard. Defects should be marked with colored chalk foe
identification.

Group Point per 100 Point per 100 Measure per Measure per
mt. sq. per mt. sq. per 100 mt. max 100 mt. max
max individual max shipment individual roll shipment
Roll Average average
Group 1 20 14 4 2
Group 2 20 14 4 2.5
Group 3 33 26 6 5

13


Defect length Points
Less than 75 mm (3 inch) 1
75 mm to 149 mm (3 inch to 6 inch) 2
150 mm to 229 mm (6 inch to 9 inch) 3
Over 230 mm (9 inch) 4
Hole large than 2 cm 4
Table3. 4 point system Procedure
Individual rolls points:
(Roll points*100)/ (inspected meters* cuttable width in mts) =
Points per sq. mt.
Average points for the inspected lots:
(Total Roll points* 100)/ (Total inspected meters*cuttable
width in mts) = Shipment Points per sq. mt.
 Individual roll points should not exceed 20 points. If one
or two rolls are above 20 points then collective call will be taken
with mill as per the average shipment points.
Any deviation in terms of length/width or any other quality
parameter will be informed to the management and respective mill for compliance
2.6.4 Process Flow of Fabric Store
Receive rolls from supplier as per indent raised
20% of roll will be inspected for defects as per 4 points system
Fabric length and cuttable width will be checked
Pass
If individual roll fails average point
be calculated for inspected lot
Given to
Production
Within tolerance lot If fail, inform mill &
Passed Reject the roll
Figure 2 inspection machine

14
Figure 3 Fabric store
Figure 4 Fabric store

15
2.7 Trim & Accessory Stores Department:
The basic function of the trims and accessories section is to stock buttons, laces, trims and
other related accessories. The stock is let out depending upon the order and the requirement of
PPC department or the merchandising/sampling department. The workflow is quite lucid here.
First the department that needs a particular material fills up a requisition slip for the same. It is
then forwarded to the store’s manager, who then approves the demand depending on his
discretion.
The acceptance of the raw materials or the accessories is generally done in terms of
documents i.e., whatever it may be whether acceptance and receiving whenever they are done
they are done according to the documents that have been received from the merchants and also
department makes the document for anything they carry out within the store.
The department first receives a PO copy from the merchants, which the merchants would have
sent it to any one among the three above mentioned supplier types. As soon as the accessory
department comes to know about the date on which they will receive that particular material they
will make a note of it in their ERP that they will be receiving that material and this is termed as
PRE GRN.
Once the material reaches the stores on the prescribed day and date the concerned person
verifies the materials against invoice/ Delivery Challan and packing list which they would have
received from the merchant as already stated.
2.7.1 Process selection:
In this method they prepare the work order and also the delivery challan and then they keep all
the documents and also forward the trims along with the document for processing.
2.7.2 Production issues:
Another thing that they have to do is identify trims which has been approved by merchants and
then prepare the delivery challan and keep the trims ready to issue to the factories. Materials to be
after inspected by security against DC as already mentioned.

17
2.7.4 Departmental Hierarchy:
2.8 Cutting Department
The cutting department does two major operations given below:
1. Firstly when there is a pilot run production for a smaller quantity say about 150 – 500 pieces.
2. Secondly during the mass/bulk production.
Cutting is a process of separating parts from the fabric as the pattern pieces in the marker for
assembly operations. This is carried out in the cutting room-an area, which normally indicates the
activities of marker planning, spreading and preparation for sewing as well as being used to refer
to actual cutting of garment parts from the lay. The main objective of the cutting department is to
cut the parts accurately and economically and in sufficient volume to keep the production units
supplied with work.
2.8.1 Work Process Flow Of Cutting Department:
Marker planning
Length of lay etc., size ratio and colors in which the patterns are to be cut along with this and
approved sample and patterns of all sizes or the marker are also sent. The cutting department
checks the fabric status in the store and acquires it whenever the production manager sends the cut
order.
All the fabric is not cut at one go. Rather it is cut as and when required by the production
department against the PCD planning. The cutting department calculates the fabric quantity
required the number of pieces mentioned in the job card using the average given by the CAD
Trim store
manager
Asst.
(stock)
Sub asst. Sub asst.
Asst.
(issue)
Sub asst. Sub asst.
Asst.
(inward)
Sub asst. Sub asst.

18
department. About 5% is cut more than required to make up for defective pieces or wastage in
production. The cutting room provides 1.5 days to 2 days of WIP to the production floor
2.8.2 Process flow chart
2.8.3 Spreading
Spreading is a process of superimposing plies of fabric on a horizontal table in a manner, which
permits these plies to be cut simultaneously into product components acceptable for assembly. For
this, first of all a thin brown paper sheet is pasted on the cutting table using an adhesive tape to
prevent the bottom plies from shifting during cutting. Then the actual spreading process Begins
with the laying of first fabric layer on this brown sheet and subsequently the other plies are laid.
The spreading of this lay is done manually. The length of the lay depends upon the quality (also
shade and shrinkage) of the fabric & length of the marker as specified by the CAD, whereas the
Dispatch for sewing
Audit pass
Quality
Bundling
Recutting (if req.)
Fusing (if Req)
Printing if Req
Embroidery if req
Numbereing
Laying of fabric
Cut order issue
Receiving of marker
Cutting Approval by QA
Re-sorting of f abric as per lot/shrinkage/width
Fabric received from fabric deptt cutting

19
lay height depends upon the thickness of the fabric and the capacity of the machine. The lengths
of the plies being spread are kept as perfectly as possible while superimposing their sides on one
another. The difference between the lengths and breadths is kept as low as possible and generally
not more than ¼ inch +/-. The height of the lay is kept between 2 1/2 inches to 3 inches. An
increased height may affect quality cutting due to unstable layers. The tension at which the fabric
is laid is also monitored.
2.8.4 Marker Making
The markers for the purpose of cutting are made by the CAD department. This marker is made
keeping in view the costing average quoted by the merchant to the buyer. In case patterns have
been made manually, the patterns are digitized to transfer them to the system and then a marker is
made.
In case of CAM cutting, marker is sent to the cutting floor in floppy and in case of manual
cutting, actual size marker is obtained through the plotter available. The specifications of the
plotter available are:
Machine Model Make Number
Wind Jet Plotter Windjet/ Plo/ 180 Algotex 1
Gerber 2
Table 4 Plotter details
2.8.5 Cutting
The lay is cut with help of straight knife cutting machines or Gerber cutter. The machine is moved
through the lay following the pattern lines of the marker and the reciprocating blade cut the pieces
of fabric progressively. Notches are also added, for Front panel(5) ,back panel(4),waistband(1),
facing(2), Back pocket(2) .Band knife-cutting machine is used. It is a non-portable cutting device,
which cuts the fabric as it is passed across the blade. The garments are kept aside as and when
they are cut.
2.8.6 Sorting and Ticketing
The pieces cut out from the lay are now sorted out size wise. All the components of one garment
size are brought together it is very important to take care of the pieces cut from two different
bundles of fabric are not mixed up. This is because within a lot there are bundle to bundle shade

20
variations the sorted pcs are now ticketed. Ticketing is the process of marking the cut components
for shade matching precision, and sequence identification. The workers secures one end of the
stack and puts on the ticket using ticket gun as he flips over the cut parts. The ticket contains the
size, bundle no. and piece no. and serves as important mans to track the parts of the garment in
the assembly line from start to the end.
2.8.7 Cut panel Checking
The ticketed panels are now sent to the checking area for inspection of every individual piece for
any objectionable faults. Panels may have faults like wrong grain line, inappropriate size,
incorrect shape and any fabric defects like holes cuts shade variations etc., that do not lie within
the acceptable quality parameters, are removed from the cut lay a cutting component check
report is filled for the total quantity cut, check and approved. The rejected pieces are sent back
and equal no of fresh panels are separately cut, replaced in the set and ticketed with the same no.
as the rejected ones. Other mendable faults are marked with an alteration stickers and passed on
these will be spotted out during garment finishing or washing.
2.8.8 Bundling
The checked components of one style and in one size are now clubbed and bundled using ties.
The size of the bundle depends upon the requirement of the production plant. Each bundle will
contain pieces of same style and same size only. The cutting department issues the amount
required by the production department when asked for.
2.8.9 Fusing
Fusing is also carried out in the cutting room itself. The parts of to be fused are separated from
the bundle the fusing material (like interlining) is cut according to the size of the components to
be fused. The components along with the cut fusing material are kept between two paper sheets
and the pack is passed through the fusing machine.
By means of temperature and pressure fussing takes place at a particular speed and for a
particular time. The pack comes out at the other end on conveyers and the pieces are removed and
re-bundled.

21
2.8.10 Quality checking process
Fabric Relaxation (Lycra-24 Hrs, Non Lycra- 8 Hrs)
Lay Inspection
Marker Inspection
Cut Parts Audit
Embellishment & Audit Bundle
Accept Reject Rework Approved Reject
Process Further Re Do Rectify Issued To Sewing Rework
Figure 5 Cutting Department

22
2.9 Embroidery Department
Raymond Everblue has a separate embroidery department.
2.9.1 Functioning of the department:
The department receives Artwork from the merchandising department which contains the
following details:
 Total length and width of the design
 Style name
 Quality details- no. of stitches/inch
 Quality check points
 Placement of design
 Pattern position
 Color etc.
They refer the buyer wise design details from the production book in which the details of each
order are maintained. These details are entered into the software which is linked to the
machines. The machines operate according to the details entered into the software. The details
about the threads (strength, plies) to be used come from the Production Planning and Control
Department. The department remains in constant touch with the Pattern Making and Cutting
departments for the correct positioning of the designs and enabling continuous work flow
respectively.
2.9.2 Types of stitches
 Zigzag
 Running
 Satin
 Titanium
2.9.3 Embroidery Threads
 Blended
 Rayon- not strong
 Tribal polyester- strong
 Other threads as per requisition
Figure 6 Embroidery machine

23
2.9.4 Time taken for initial set up (12 pcs)
 Small logo- ½ hour
 Big design- 2 to 3 hours
 Framing- 5 min for 12 frames

2.9.5 Process Flow

24
2.10 Sewing Department
Sewing department can be termed as the heart and soul of any garment manufacturing unit. This
department is responsible for the conversion of cut panels into actual garments. A floor set up
comprising of 15 lines of around 50 machines each. The whole floor is divided into 15 lines
including training section as a separate line.
The production capacity of the floors is around 1,80,000 units of garment per month. When a new
style comes over; the various information like operation breakdown, sewing details, critical
operations etc. is put up on the display board. A sample of the garment is also put up in front of
the sewing line for any type of reference.
Line is set as per line layout plan. Operations are assigned to the operators according to their skill
set. Required SPI, thread tension and needle no. is set by supervisors and mechanic as per
requirement. Line in charge & supervisor give the direction to the operators about their respective
jobs. In line checkers and QC’s ensure that the quality coming out of each operation is as per the
quality specification.
Industrial Engineer do the study of operators and their respective operations again. If any change
is needed in the layout and working method for maintaining the quality and production,
immediate action is taken.
2.10. 1 Operation Bulletin:
It is prepared by industrial engineering department (IED). It’s a format containing details about
no. of operations, type of operation, type and no. of m/c required, tailors and helpers required in
each sub sections like preparatory section, front, back and assemblysection, to give fixed target
of production with quality.

25
Example: Refer style
33 Join back rise FOA 0.4 0.73 1
34 Stay stitch @ Back pkt DNLS 0.24 0.86 1
35 Stay stitch back rise SNLS 0.34 0.52 1
36 Back Panel Checking CHECKER 0.5 1.08 1
37 ASSEMBLY SECTION
Operation M/c SAM MP Allocation
PREPARATORY
SECTION
Make Loops
LOOP
1 FLATLOCK 0.11 0.23 0.5
2 Decorative stitch @ back pkt DECORATIVE 0.4 0.83 1
3 Crease Back pkt IRON 0.24 0.5 1
4 Hem back pkt (2 pkts) DNLS 0.35 0.73 1
5 Hem Coin pkt SNLS 0.18 0.37 0.5
6 Crease Back pkt PKT CREASER 0.54 1.12 2
7 Attach back pkt PKT SETTER 0.6 1.25 2
FRONT SECTION
8 Mark for facing & Coin pkt HELPER 0.35 0.93 1
9 Attach WP Label SNLS 0.24 0.5 1
10 Serge Facing 3T OVERLOCK 0.34 0.71 1
11 Facing attach to pkt lining (2 pcs) SNLS 0.54 0.66 1
12 Coin pkt attach to facing DNSB 0.42 0.87 1
13 Pkt bag attach to front SNLS 0.45 0.93 1
14 Crease scoop IRON 0.43 0.89 1
15 Topstitch front scoop DNLS 0.4 0.83 1
16 Close pkt bag SNEC 0.45 0.93 1
17 Turn & top stitch pkt bag SNLS 0.55 1.14 2
18 Stay stitch Front pkts SNLS 0.45 0.93 1
19 Serge Left Fly 3T OVERLOCK 0.15 0.31 1
20 Zipper attach to fly DNCS 0.32 0.66 1
21 Attach S Fly SNLS 0.24 0.5 1
22 Edge stitch S fly SNLS 0.28 0.58 1
23 Sew J stitch DNLS 0.4 0.83 1
24 Attach Right Fly to zipper SNLS 0.22 0.46 1
25 Serge Right fly with front panel 3T OVERLOCK 0.2 0.42 1
26 Topstitch Right fly attaching SNLS 0.24 0.5 1
27 Join Front rise DNLS 0.36 0.75 1
28 Tack pkt bags SNLS 0.45 0.93 1
29 Attach W/c label with pouch SNLS 0.5 0.83 1
30 Serge Front panel @ side seam 3T OVERLOCK 0.5 0.93 1
31 Front Panel Checking CHECKER 0.5 1.04 1
BACK SECTION
32 Attach yoke to back DNCS 0.43 0.93 1

26
38 Front/Back setting & W/band Tag HELPER 0.8 1.73 2
39 Join Inseam FOA 0.5 1.08 1
40 Check & Cut Inseam HELPER 0.34 0.73 1
41 Join side seam SNCS 0.84 1.81 2
42 Crease Busted seam IRON 0.4 0.86 1
43 Inseam & Side seam Checking CHECKER 0.5 1.08 1
44 Cord stitch side seam SNLS 0.74 1.6 2
45 Tack side seam Inside BARTACK 0.28 0.6 1
46 Mark for W/B HELPER 0.4 0.86 1
47 Attach waist band (1 Pc) W/B MC 0.58 1.25 2
48 Waist band check & trim HELPER 0.24 0.52 2
49 Waist Band Checking CHECKER 0.5 1.08 1
50 W/B Edge stitch & Close SNLS 0.64 1.38 2
51 Mark for Loop attaching HELPER 0.3 0.65 1
52 Reinforcement for back loops IRON 0.24 0.52 1
53 Tack Loops LOOP SETTER 0.45 0.97 1
54 BARTACK Back pkt ( 4 No's) BARTACK 0.38 0.82 1
55 Bartack Fly BARTACK 0.24 0.52 1
56 BTM hem SNLS 0.9 1.94 2
57 Sew Key hole KEYHOLE 0.25 0.43 1
BUTTON
58 Attach dummy button STITCH 0.2 0.6 1
59 End Line Checking CHECKER 0.8 1.73 2
60 Turn the Garment HELPER 0.28 0.6 1
61 Trimming and sticker removing HELPER 1.3 2.81 2
Total 25.41 71
Table 5 Operation Breakdown
2.10.2 Machine Layout:
It’s a pre plan in which m/c are arranged according to the operation required in each section
like preparatory, front, back and assembly purely based on particular style.
Advantages:
 Helps in easy batch setting
 Reduce extra man power requirement
 Reduces time consumption
 Helps in deciding no. of machine and type of m/c required.
2.10.3 Batch Setting:
It plays very important role in sewing section, helps in setting each operation on the basis of
new style.

27
Loading:
Loading is Supply of cut parts to the line. Bundles from the trolley will be unloaded and loaded to
the airport trolley on different work stations.
2.10.4 Bundle Movement:
To move the bundle along the assembly line as each operation takes place. Sewing machines are
placed such that the left side is towards the free space for trolleys. Needle point is also placed
towards the central area. Operator picks the bundle from the trolley kept on the left side of the
operator and unties it.
Bundle is kept back on the trolley and operator picks up the first piece, performs the operation/s
assigned to them and disposes the piece. Process is repeated for all pieces of the bundle. After
completing the operation in the last pieces, bundle is tied back.
2.10.5 In Line Inspection:
To inspect each part or garment at end of pre-defined sections/workstations 100% parts
inspection is done at the end of the defined section or particular operations. Pass bundles will
move on the next operations. Defective bundles will return to the particular operator for
alteration.
2.10.6 End Line Inspection:
To inspect completed garments at the end of each line, 100% garments inspection is done at the
end of the line. Pass garments will move on to finishing section. Defective garments will return to
the particular operator for alteration.
2.10.7 In Line Audit:
This audit is the control point for the following operations. Based on the defined AQL, inline
bundles will be audited. If fail, then the next sample size will be taken into consideration report
will authorized by the production manager. This audit is the control point for the following
operations. Based on the defined AQL and DHU (Defects per hundred units) percentage inline
bundles will be audited. If fail, then next sample size will be taken into consideration report will
authorized by the production manager.

28
2.10.8 End-Line Audit
This audit is the control point for the pieces moving to the next section. Based on the defined
AQL and DHU (Defects per hundred units) percentage the End-line garments will be audited. If
fail, then next sample size will be taken into consideration report will authorized, by the
production manager.
2.10.9 Folders:
Folders are the work aids attached to the m/c, for simplifying the work and reducing the
operator’s fatigue.
Few types of folders:
1. Waist band folders
2. Belt loop folders
3. Side seam folders
4. Bottom hemming folders
5. Top tape stand
6. 3 corner guild
7. Right angle binder with piping etc.
Advantages:
Reduces time consumption
Increases efficiency with high production
Maintain required quality
Figure 7 Sewing Floor

29
2.11 Product development washing department
2.11.1 Introduction to the department:
Denim washing is aesthetic finish given to denim fabric to enhance the demand and to provide
strength. Dry denim as opposed to washed denim is a denim fabric that is not washed after being
dyed during its production.
Much of the appeal of dry denim lies in the fact that with time fabric will fade in a manner similar
to that which artificially distressed denim attempts to replicate. With dry denim however such
fading is affected by the body of the person who wears jeans and the activities of their daily life.
This creates what many fell to be more natural, unique look than pre distressed denim.
It is a new technology by which outlook, size, comfort ability and fashion of a garment are
changed or modified.
2.11.2 Procedure:
 Receive goods from product development or sampling department.
 Verify desired ingredients ratio to be used to achieve buyer specified.
 Prepare the washing recipe.
 Load goods along with ingredients into machine.
 Perform desired washing, maintain specified time and temperature.
 Shift wash garments into hydro extractor.
 Shift garments into dryer for complete drying.
 Send dried garments for checking.
2.11.3 The changes occur due to the following actions:
 Mechanical / rubbing / abrasion between garments to garments.
 Garments to machine contact.
 Chemical reaction.
2.11.4 Objective of garment washing:
 To develop softness in garments
 To introduce fading effect: Dyes or pigments are present in the fabric, used during
coloration, and are washed out locally or partially which result fading or worn out effects
in the garments.

30
 To create new fashion: Washing Process of garments bring different outlook
 (Faded, color tinted) thus creating new fashion for the new generation especially for
teenagers.
2.11.5 Characteristics of denim fabric:
 Warp yarn dyed (indigo, vat, blue or Sulphur black )
 Weave 2/1, 3/1 RHT/LHT
 Usually made of cotton, PC blend yarns of coarser count (7
s
, 10
s
, 14
s
, 16
s
)
 Generally rotor yarn is used.

2.11.6 General Classification of denim fabric:
1. As per weight /unit area.
 Light weight : 4.5 to 7 oz/sq.yd
 Medium weight : 7 to 10 oz/sq.yd
 Heavy weight: 11 and above.
2. As per hue and color.
 Indigo vat.
 Sulphur black.
 Pigment.
The washing unit will check the garment for the different aspects which are as follows:
 Type of the material.
 The texture that is under demand.
 The feel and look of the garment under demand.
 Types of labels that are been used in the garment.
 Dye stuffs used for the garment (if it is a colored fabric).
 Dye / ink used in the labels that are being attached to the garment.
 Types of threads used for in sewing.
 Types of chemicals that should be used to get the desired finish.
 The after effects of those chemicals on the fabric.
 The sensitivity criteria of the fabric.
 The wet processes that has to be carried out to get the end product.
 Temperature at which the garment has to be treated.
 Duration of the treatment.


31

S.no Machine Name Machine Make/Model Capacity No of
machines
1 Washing m/c Smartex-340 15KW 3
2 Washing m/c Smartex-225 11KW 2
3 Washing m/c Tonello-510 37KW 3
4 Washing m/c Danis MK-250 7.5KW 3
5 Washing m/c Tolker TDWE-510 22KW 2
6 Washing m/c Smartex-30 3.7KW 6
7 Washing m/c Ramson RHTP-30 3.7KW 2
8 Compressor E-30 ELGI 30KW,191CFM 6
9 Air drier ELRD 450 450CFM 4
10 DWR RDM-100 5.5KW 2
11 DWR(for Samples) RDM-50 3.7KW 1
12. Hydro Extractor RND 130 9 KW 5
13 Laser FLEXI 250 Marcatex 1.5KW 1
Twin hs 4KW 2
14 Chillar TAE 020 0.67KW 1
Rittal 1.8KW 3
15 Ozone Roz 100e 5KW 2
Table 6 Washing Machine Details
After coming to a conclusion of what recipe has to be used for the garment they start treating
the garments in the desired sequence.
In this washing there are two types. They are:
1. Wet processing
2. Dry processing
Wet processing involves mainly two types which are as follows:
2.11.7 Washing process: In the washing process, there are different types of washing
procedures involved which are classified as follows:
a) DENIM WASHING
Normal wash/ water wash / dip and dry
1. Desize wash
2. Enzyme wash
3. Stone enzyme
4. Bleach
5. Rag wash
6. Acid wash
7. Tinting
8. Resin

32
2.11.8 Denim Bleaching
In the process a strong oxidative bleaching agent like sodium hypochlorite or KMNO4 is added
during the washing with or without stone addition. Discoloration produced is usually more
apparent depending on strength on the bleach liquor quality, temperature and treatment time. It is
preferable to have strong bleach with short treatment time.
Care should be taken for the bleached goods so that they should be adequately antichlor or after
washed with peroxide to minimize yellowing. Materials should be carefully stored before
processing for color uniformity,
Process cycle:
Step # 1(De sizing)

Load the garments into the washing machine (100 kg)

Add water (liquor ratio 1:5) and start the machine running (12-15 rpm)

Add amylase enzyme (1 to 3% i.e.1 to 3 kg)

Add detergent (1% i.e. 1kg)

Supply steam to raise temp. (60°C)

Continue the process for 20 min and then drain the liquor

Hot wash (at temp. of 40°C to 50°C for 5 minutes).
Step # 2 (Bleaching)

Add Water into the m/c (1:5 liquor ratios, i.e. 500 liters)

Start m/c running (12 to 15 rpm) and add soda ash (Na2CO3) to liquor (2% i.e. 2kg)

Add caustic soda (NaOH) to liquor (2% i.e. 2kg)

Add bleaching chemical (H2O2) to liquor (5ml per liter, i.e. 2.5 liters)

Add stabilizer to liquor (2ml per liter, i.e. 1 liter)

Supply steam to raise temp.(70°-800
C)

Continue the process for 60 to 70 min. and drain the liquor

Hot wash at 60°C for 5 minutes
Step # 3 (Neutralization)


Start m/c running (12 to 15 rpm)

Add acetic acid (CH3COOH) to liquor (1 to 2 ml per liter, i.e. 500ml to 1liter)

Continue the process for 10-15 min and then drain the liquor

Step # 4 (Brightening treatment)

33


Add Fluorescent Whitening agent/Fluorescent Brightening agent to liquor (% as required)

Supply steam to raise temperature (800
C)

Continue the process for 10 min and then drain the liquor.
Step # 5 (Softening)

Add Water into the m/c (1:5 liquor ratios, i.e. 500 liter)

Start m/c running (12 to 15 rpm)

Add softener to the liquor (0.1 to 0.5%, i.e. 100g to 500g)

Supply steam to raise the temperature (as required 400
to 600
C)

Continue the process for 5 minutes and then drain the liquor and unload the garments.
2.11.9 Limitations of denim bleaching:
Process is difficult to control difficult to reach the same level of bleaching in repeated
runs. When desired level bleaching reached the time span available to stop the
bleaching is very narrow. Due to harshness of chemical, it may cause damage to
cellulose resulting in severe strength losses and or breaks or pinholes at the seam,
pocket, etc. Harmful to human health and causes corrosion to stainless steel. Requires
antichlor treatment.
Problem of yellowing is very frequent due to residual chlorine. Chlorinated organic
substances occur as abundant products in bleaching and pass into the effluent where they
cause severe environmental pollution.
2.11.10 Enzyme Wash
It is environmentally friendly wash. It involves the application of organic enzymes that
eat away at the fabric, i.e. the cellulose. When the desired color is achieved, the enzyme
can be stopped by changing the alkalinity of the bath or its temperature. Post treatment
includes final ringing and softening cycle. The effects produced by cellulose enzyme are:
Use of cellulose making the seams, hems, and pockets more
noticeable; Salt paper effect is color contrast effect.
Faded garment washed with acid cellulose enzyme provides less color contrast in
proportion to garment washed neutral cellulose enzymes.

34
Garment load size of the m/c is 35-40 jeans per m/c and it cannot be overloaded.
Buyer: Levis
Style Name: Incline
Wash type: Enzyme Bleach
Lot Quantity: 80 pcs Table 7 Enzyme Bleach recipe
Step Operation Time Temperature Level Chemical Chemical amount
1 Desize 10 cold 800 f10 200 gms
Palon 1 kg
2 Rinse 2 800
3 Enzyme 35 cold 800 RT 1020 1 kg
Stone 30 kg
A/Acid 250 gms
Palon 1 kg
4 Rinse 2 800
5 Enzyme 35 cold 800 RT 1020 1 kg
Stone 30 kg
A/Acid 250 gms
Palon 1 kg
6 Rinse 2 800 Remove the stone
Bleaching CH 45 powed 10 ltr
7 Bleach
8 Rinse 1 800
Bleaching CH 45 powed 10 ltr
9 Bleach
10 Rinse 1 800
11 Neutralise 15 40 800 M.B.S 2 kg
12 Neutralise 10 40 800 M.B.S 2 kg
Figure 8 Jeanologia

35
Figure 9 Scrapping
Figure 10 Whiskering

36
2.12 Quality Assurance Department
Quality is the major criteria for any product and the same rule apply even to garment
industries also. Quality audit tools like:-
AQL 1.5 – cutting audit
AQL 2.5 - garment auditing
4 point system- for fabric checking
2.12.1 Functioning of the Department:
In order to maintain quality the quality assurance department has split up their job into different
stages of manufacturing and they are classified into four major groups which are as follows:
2.12.2 Pre-production audit:
In this stage auditing is mainly done for the stages which come before the production which is
sampling. Here the auditing is done for all samples and precisely for the size set samples and also
for the pilot production garments. The size set samples are given importance to because they are
mainly asked by the buyer for checking the dimensions of the garment hence an extra stress is
given to these samples and the auditing for them is mainly done for the measurements of the
garment and the measurements are checked at all the critical areas in the garment.
For example: If it is a trouser then the measurements are checked at the areas like the length of
the trouser, waist measurements, inseam measurements, the distance of the belt loops, etc.
For the pilot run production also the garments are checked for the dimensions and also for the
placement of the accessories and trim, for example, the label attachment areas, etc.
All the trial samples, measurement samples (before wash and after wash), size set samples are
approved by Quality Assurance personnel before offering any external checking and before
starting the pilot run also.
2.12.3 CAD:
Here all the markers are checked with shade and shrinkage preferences.

37
2.12.4 Cutting audit:
In the cutting stage, which is the critical stage of the garment production the auditing is further
divided into many other departments which are as follows:
 Quality check for the marker.
 100% In-line checking while spreading.
 Marker and lay checking.
 100% checking of cut pieces before they are issued to sewing floor.
 Notches and other parameters after cutting have to be checked.
 Quality audit of cut pieces at AQL 1.5 before dispatch to numbering.
 100% quality check for Fusing
 100% checking of pieces after embroidery.
Table 8 Auditing criteria
2.12.5 Quality Assurance Followed on the Stitching Floor
The bundles of 20 garment pieces each comes from the cutting department along with the
pattern, product file & product sample.
 Patterns are checked by a roaming QC ,QA or production technician
 3 inline checkers (at each critical operation)
 1 final checkers (checks for basic measurements, stitching faults, balancing problems-
100% checking)
 Lots are made
 Sent for auditing(2.5 AQL system followed by the auditor)
 If defects found, sent back for 100% checking and alteration
LOT SIZE SAMPLE SIZE PASS FAIL
1 COLOR 20 1 2
2 COLOR 32 2 3
3 COLOR 50 3 4
4 COLOR 80 5 6
5 COLOR 80 5 6
>5 COLOR 125 7 8

38
In sewing process the inspection is done in two areas which are as follows:
1. In- line audit: Here the garments are checked during their different stages of manufacturing
which are as follows:
 After front ready
 After back ready
 After assembly

2. End – line audit: Here the garments are checked after the entire process is over and the
Specifications are mainly based on the dimensions of the garment at the critical Positions and then
the placements of the labels. AQL is being followed for the end-line auditing.
After the auditing is done in each and every stage the defects, findings and other related
Information will be recorded by the concerned departments in their own formats and they will be
sent to the respective departments for rectifications.
2.12.6 Washing and finishing Section:
Quality checking is done before wash and after wash. The points to be checked are Shade
Changes, Open stitches, Damages, Tinting, Color bleed, broken buttons, measurements etc.
In ironing section before final ironing, the buyer nominated QA signs the sample for approval.
There is QC monitoring the entire process.
2.12.7 Output: Quality level achieved as per buyer norms. Daily 5000 garments packed in
finishing section with AQL quality checking to maintain quality level.
2.12.8 Reports maintained for Quality:
These reports help in monitoring the quality throughout the production process.
 Size set report
 Spreading, Lay report, Cutting report
 Inline and end line check report
 In process measurement report
 Washing report
 Final statistical audit report

39
2.13 Finishing Department
The finishing department is the department which comes after all the departments and it plays an
equally important role in the final appearance of the garment.
2.13.1 Functioning of the Department:
This department includes majorly of the following steps:
2.13.1.1 Semi - pressing
This happens when a garment is difficult to inspect in the crushes manner as it comes from the
washing department hence, they do a partial pressing for the garments and then inspect it and
trim it and then send it to the complete pressing process.
2.13.1.2 Trimming:
This involves the removal of the extra threads from the garment at the stitched areas. As soon as
the garment comes from washing, undergoes extensive trimming of the inside and outside part
of it.
2.13.1.3 Thread Sucking
There are 2 thread sucking machines in the department which suck the extra threads stuck to the
garment. These thread sucking machine are facilitated with Suction control, Set on time and
balance on time options, sensor and pedal options.
2.13.1.4 Pressing
The pressing is done after the garment has been completely inspected and the garments are
pressed on the basis of how they will be folded during packing.
2.13.1.5 Measurement checking
After the garment is being pressed, it undergoes for measurement checking according to the
buyer’s specification.

40
2.13.1.6 Final checking
Inspection
The inspection carried out here is according to the AQL 2.5 system and sometimes it depends
on the buyer also i.e., if the buyer emphasizes for a 100% inspection then the company has to
do as specified.
2.13.1.7 Tagging section
Once the garments are been done with the inspection and complete pressing then they are sent for
tagging the labels and the labels include the size labels, price tags and miscellaneous labels if any
required by the buyer. Once the tagging is done the garments are folded according to the buyer’s
specification and also they are either folded plainly or sometimes they are folded after they are
put to the hangers as per the buyer’s specifications again. The packing material, PCB details,
number of size ratios that are supposed to be put in are all suggested by the buyer and the
packing is done according to these specifications.
2.13.1.8 Packing
The packing is always done in the carton boxes and there are several criteria for the packing of
the garments which are as follows:
There are generally two kinds of packing the garment
1. The garment is individually packed/wrapped in the poly bag whose design will be specified
by the buyer i.e., either with the hanger attached or plain poly bag packing and then the entire
garments (as per the packing criteria) is arranged in the carton box.
2. The other method is that the garments are just folded and arranged in the carton boxes
without putting them in the poly bag. The packing criteria followed in each carton box as
already mentioned is done in different ways which is as follows:
2.13.1.9 Solid Packing:
In this method of packing, the carton box will include garments of single color and same size.
For example, 20 denim of a similar color say navy blue and the size say 30 will be put in one
carton box.

41
2.13.1.10 Ratio Packing:
In this method the carton box includes garments of same color but of different sizes according to
the ratio. For example, 30: 32: 34:36 = 5:7:7:5.
2.13.1.11 Mixed Packing:
In this method the carton box includes garments of different colors but of same size or garments
with different colours and different sizes in a particular ratio form. After the packing is done the
garments are kept in the god own/ stores until the buyer sends the buyer QC for the inspection
purpose before delivering them and once the QC arrives, he will check them according to the 2.5
AQL level and then see if the garments has to be accepted or rejected.
Process Flow

42
2.13.1.12 Measurement Checking
2.13.2 Offering to buyer Q.A person:
The packed garments are offered to the buyer Q.A person. After getting an approval from him the
garments are ready for Shipment. Inspection of goods is done normally by a random selection in
the ware house, from where the goods are shipped to the desired destination. If not approved
garments are sent for re- checking.
2.13.3 Procedure and Activities Involved in the Shipment Process
The procedure for the shipment process is as follows after the Packing process:
Initially the inspection is carried out by the buyer Q.A. Randomly carton boxes are
checked for the quality inspection. After the inspection process is over again the carton boxes are
re-packed. The Packing list will be given by the Packing section to the shipment area. This

43
packing list which helps to cross checked the quantity of goods available in the Warehouse. The
given packing list should be matched with the quantity of goods available in the Warehouse.
Goods from the Warehouse will be sent by 1st, 2nd or 3rd Shipment wise.
The Merchant or Merchandiser will send the P.O (purchase Order copy) to the shipment area.
According to the P.O copy the goods are divided and separated according to the styles and
country wise as per the buyer’s requirement.
Commercial department will book the vehicle in which the goods have to be sent to the Cargo
area, from where the goods are sent to the respective Countries. Responsibility of the goods for
the company only till Cargo section/packers/movers. Later country wise the shipment will be done
by the packers/movers with buyer’s direct contact.

44
2.14 Effluent Treatment Plant:
It is a process design for treating the industrial waste water for its reuse or safe disposal to the
environment.
A Influent: Untreated industrial waste water.
B Effluent: Treated industrial waste water.
C Sludge: Solid part separated from waste water by ETP.
TREATMENT
INFLUENT EFFLUENT
SLUDGE
2.14.1 NEED OF ETP
 To clean industry effluent and recycle it for further use.
 To reduce the usage of fresh/potable water in Industries.
 To cut expenditure on water procurement.
 To meet the Standards for emission or discharge of environmental pollutants from
various Industries set by the Government and avoid hefty penalties.
 To safeguard environment against pollution and contribute in sustainable development.
2.14.2 Design of ETP
The design and size of the ETP depends upon:
 Quantity and quality of the industries discharge effluent.
 Land availability.
 Monetary considerations for construction, operation & maintenance.
Area dimension depends on

Quality of wastewater to be treated,

Flow rate

Type of biological treatment to be used .

In case of less available land, CETP (Common Effluent Treatment Plant) is preferred over
ETP
ETP

45
2.14.3 Treatment Levels & Mechanisms of ETP
Treatment levels:
1. Prelimnary
2. Primary
3. Secondary
4. Tertiary (or advanced)
Treatment mechanisms:
1. Physical
2. Chemical
3. Biological
2.14.4 Activated Sludge Process
Figure 1 Sludge Process

46
2.14.5 Flow chart for ETP
This process is the water which is already used in washing process and is contaminated with
chemicals and unwanted material is removed from it and this recycled water is reused in by
connecting it to the garden.
Here the very first thing that is done is the removal of collaring matter which is mixed with the
water. This removal of colouring matter is done with the help of lime and ferrous sulphate. In this
process it is very important to reduce the pH level which will be around 10 to 7.5 by adding HCL.
The second step is to remove the bacteria from the water which is done by adding sodium
hypochlorite. Then the water is processed through the Nuclear Membrane and the water with pH
of 7 is reused to the garden.
Figure 12 ETP flow Chart

47
CHAPTER 3:
PROJECT
3.1 Reduction in production loss due to cut parts missing
3.1.1 Introduction:
Garment cut parts missing results in production loss due to lack of proper
production planning, systematic way of arranging the cut parts and improper
tracking system.
3.1.2 Problem statement:
One of the major problems faced by the company is missing waistband at the time
of actual production. This problem results in production delays because the time
wasted in re-cutting those waistbands and fusing them before feeding them in line.
3.1.3 Scope of the project:
This project aim to solve the above problem by following specific steps in planning
of loading a style into the sewing line, storing the cut parts in specified places, track
them as quickly as possible and fuse them on time so there’s no waiting time during
the production.
3.1.4 Objectives:
The project has following objectives:
 To have systematic planning for loading a style in a line with cutting
department for fusing the waistband
 Change in layout of cut parts storage area
 To eliminate re-cutting problem to reduce fabric & time wastage
 Cut parts entry and tracking system through a simple basic data entry
software

48
3.1.5 Primary Data collection:
Flow chart:
Cutting:
 After fabric relaxation, fabric is spread according to the cut plan order received. Marker is
received from the CAD department and it is spread on the lay to initiate cutting.
Ticketing & bundling:
 After cutting, bundles are made of different parts and temporarily stored on the racks until
the numbering is done. When ticketing for all the parts is done it is randomly stored in the
ticketing area wherever the place is available.
Dispatch for fusing:
 When the style is loaded in the sewing line the parts are required along with its fusable
parts (mostly waistbands), so after searching all the parts, fusable parts are send for fusing
and other parts are loaded into the sewing line.
Cutting
Ticketing & bundeling
Dispatch for fusing
Pane adjustment for
fusing
Fusing process
Fused cut parts stored
in cutting department

49
Panel adjustment:
 Before fusing process is carried out, it is required to place interlining on the parts so the
parts are send to preparatory section for panel adjustment and thereby to fusing machine.
Fusing:
 Actual fusing process is carried out by fusing operators at this stage and they bundle this
parts again according to the ticket number.
Fused parts storage:
 Fused parts are stored on trolleys randomly in cutting department until it is required in the
sewing line.

50
3.1.6 Workplace:
Pocketing Fabric Area
Before
Figure 13 Work place Before
After
Figure 14 Work place After
3.1.7 Cutting Tables
Before

51
Figure 15 Cutting tables before
After
Figure 16 Cutting tables After

52
3.1.8 Aisle Space
Figure 17 AISLE space before Figure 18 AISLE space After
Before After

53
3.1.9 Tracking Inventory:
To track the inventory in the cutting department after ticketing, very basic data
entry software is developed.
3.1.9.1 Introduction:
Purpose:
The inventory tracking system is made for cutting department to track the numbered cut parts as
quickly as possible and without missing them.
Scope:
In scope:
 To provide the system to add details about the cut parts being stored
 To retrieve the data about where the cut parts are being kept
 To maintain the data about the inventory in the department
 To update details which are essential to the department
 User authentication
Not In scope:
 Multi user system
Overview:
1. The Following section describes the Basic Requirements (Hardware/Software
Requirements, Interface required, etc…), Specific Requirements (External Interface,
Functions, Performance Requirements etc...), Software Functions, User Characteristics ,
Constraints etc..
2. The SRS Document is divided into 6 Sections.
 The 1st Section defines the Introduction of Project
 The 2nd Section defines the whole Description of the Project including Software
Perspective, Software Functions, User Characteristics, Constraints, etc…This may be used
by Potential Users.
 The 3rd Section defines the Requirements of the Project i.e. External interfaces, Functions,
Performance Requirements, Logical Database Requirements, Design Constraints,
etc…This may be Used by Potential Users.
 The 5th Section defines the Approval Certificate of Project. The 6th Section includes the
Supporting Information of the Project that may be used by Potential Users to find their
requirement in form of table and Appendixes.

54
3.1.9.2The General Description
This Section defines the basic Requirements used in background of the Project.
These Requirements are listed below.
3.1.9.3 Software Perspective
Our project is Simple application, like client and server application, administrator will be linked
with users (members) through this web application, having following specifications:-
Hardware:
 Any system with Windows 7 or above
 1.8 GHz, 256MB Ram, 80 GB HDD, 15”TFT or CRT monitor,
 Optical Mouse, MM Key board, Serial & Parallel port
Software:
 A computer must be running Windows 7 or/and above.
 The application is optimized for screen resolution of 1024x768 and above with Minimum
16 bit color.
 Server must be equipped with any database and Microsoft Windows OS.
 For hosting the application, the server need to be equipped with secured MySQL or
ACCESS database and all machines should be in LAN/ WAN with server depending upon
the locations.
System Interfaces
 Interfaces: Netbeans IDE (Version 8.0.2)
MySQL Server 5.5
Operations
The normal and special operations required by the user, administrator and operator are:
 This software application is to assist user to manage the different work related to track the
inventory I the ticketing and bundling area.
 Minimize repetitive work done by the user to maintain consistency.
 The users should be able to access any information regarding cut parts without going to
the storage area
 Maintain information regarding all the planned cut date and loading date of the style
 Reduce effort and frustration for workers in getting the information regarding any pieces
and bundles, especially by reducing the time and efforts for the information need.
 Show all possible information that is required about the inventory in the storage area

55
 Check the validity of input data and give a feedback to the user in case of errors or
inconsistency.
Software Functions
 User Authentication
 Order Details
 Course information
 Branch Information
 Subject Information
 Exam Schedule
 Exam Result
 Exam Statistics
 Maintain Exam Records
 Others
Objectives:
 Data entry should be easy and time saving
 Make the data entry error proof
 It should be password protected
 Modification should be reflected correctly
 Data retrieval should be quick
3.2 Reduction in Fabric issuing time for Cutting

56
3.2.1 Introduction:
The fabric are relaxed in relaxation area after the process it has been issued to cutting department.
One of the major problems faced by the company is searching fabric lot & issuing to cutting
department, where lot of time was consuming to issuing.
This project aim to solve the above problem by following specific steps in issuing fabric on time
& reduced searching time then there is no waiting for production.
3.2.4 Objectives:
 To have systematic planning for loading a fabric to cutting department.
 Time reduction in searching.
 This planning helps in keeping things at right place for right usage on time.
Study of Roll retrival time for the fabric lots before implementation.
Roll Nos Buyer Retrival time (min)
22961 Levis 5.34
28795 Levis 4.23
29012 Levis 3.56
29009 Levis 5.23
22741 Levis 4.45
28759 Levis 5.50
28210 Levis 4.34
22736 Levis 6.27
28884 Levis 4.56
29016 Levis 5.49
28910 Levis 6.49
22700 Levis 5.12
22684 Levis 6.57
Avg time taken 5.16
Table 9 Role retrival time
3.2.5 Steps Taken to reduce the searching time
 Numbering the Racks in format of R1, R2, R3……….R18
 Numbering the slabs of each Rack in form of A,B,C,D,E
 A board was been implemented to write the roll details on it.
Before Implementing Racks & slabs & numbering.

57
Figure 19 Racks without Numbering
After Implementing Racks & Slabs Numbering
Figure 20 racks with Numbering
Implementation of Board to write Fabric Roll details on it.

58
Figure 21Board Under Implementation
After Implementaion of Reporting the Faric roll numbers on board.
Figure 22 Implemented Board for writing Roll Nos.
IE executive cross checking the detail on board

59
Figure 23 Cross verifying Board by IE executive
Study of Roll retrival time for the fabric lots After implementation.
Roll Nos Buyer Retrival time (min)
22804 Levis 2.13
28909 Levis 1.45
22739 Levis 2.53
22739 Levis 2.25
28701 Levis 2.47
22732 Levis 1.29
22684 Levis 1.32
22683 Levis 1.54
28689 Levis 2.34
22726 Levis 2.56
23464 Levis 2.39
22764 Levis 1.48
22342 Levis 1.54
Avg Time taken 1.56
Table 10 Role retrival time after implementation

60
3.3 Modification of Bin cards & removed NVA in process.
3.3.1 Introduction:
The fabric are relaxed in relaxation area after the relaxation lot as been tagged with Bin card.
Where the Bin cards are attached to the lot mean while a sticker also been attaching to the lot.
This project aim to solve the above problem by removing NVA sticker attaching on the fabric lots
& same details has been added on Bin cards.
3.3.4 Objectives:
 Time reduction in sticking the sticker on lot.
 Cost minimisation by avoiding Stickers on the fabric lots
Bin Card which used before
Stickers that have been attaching to Fabric roll
Figure 24 Bin card

61
After implementing new Bin card which have both details of Sticker & Bin card
The Fabric lot having New Bin Card Developed by me.
Figure 25 Sticker card
Figure 26 Newly developed Bin card
Figure 27 Newly developed Bin card on fabric lot

62
3.4 New work aid Improvement of Pocket Ironing
3.4.1 Introduction:
The pocket ironing to be done before attaching to back panel.
The ironing of pocket is doing by using metal sheet panel.
This work aid will help us in reducing cycle time of operation & easier to do the ironing of
pockets than the previous method of doing.
3.4.4 Objectives:
 Time reduction in process.
 Easier to iron pockets.
 Higher productivity.
The Ironing process before.
Figure28 Ironing pocket with normal Template.

63
After the Implementation of new work aid.
Figure 29 Ironing pocket with advanced work aid Template.
Work aid improvement using same metal template & attaching to cardboard to achieve more
effective productivity.
Figure 30 Developed work aid Template.

64
The reduction in time after implementing as been shown:
Pocket Ironing pieces Before implementation (sec) After Implementation ( sec)
1 33.8 21.4
2 32.7 21.9
3 33.6 22.6
4 34.5 23.9
5 32.1 20.8
6 31.9 21.5
7 32.4 20.6
8 31.4 22.7
9 32.0 21.5
10 31.1 22.3
Avg Time 32.55 21.92
Production/hour pieces 110 164
Table 11 Pocket ironing comparison
The reduction in time for ironing pocket is 10.63
Hence productivity of one hour is improved by 54 pieces
This is a small work aid implementation to improve the productivity of the process & it is
economically low cost of utilising the things & ergonomically helpful to use reduces worker
fatigue.

65
3.5 Introduced Red Tag Area in the production floor
3.5.1 5’S
Many Japanese firms have been making the most of the practice of 5s concept in order to
enhance human capability and productivity. Since its introduction by Takashi Osada in
the early 1980s, it has been demonstrated that the SS techniques could considerably raise
the performance in production line including housekeeping, health and safety.
To introduce 5s concepts in order to make the garment manufacturers utilize the benefits
of good house-keeping procedures.
3.5.2 Observations and problem identincation
After analyzing and critically examining the existing stores, the following observations
(which speak of the poor housekeeping) were made.
 Fabric rolls and accessories received in the Material Inward area were stored
unscientifically.
 The crates for accommodating the fabric rolls and accessories were severely bent
due to overloading.
 Uneven arrangement of fabric rolls
 Very low utilization of storage space
 Insufficient information on the fabric storage layout board.
 Non availability of storage bins for many accessories.
 Used accessories improperly stored
 Enormous time to identify accessories for retrieval
 Total absence of disposal of wastage and un wanted items
 Unduly long storage of fabric rolls in the sub-store area instead of quick disposal
 Hap hazardous storage of fabric samples, making location time consuming
3.5.3 Objectives
 To establish effective house-keeping procedures in the stores department.
 To implement and maintain an effective system to achieve a conducive environment
for quality.

66
3.5.4 Methodology adopted
Discussion with managers to identi9 the department for 5s implementation
Using the 5s master scoring criteria, record the present level of performance
Implementation of 5s tools in the stores.
Evaluate the performance of the stores after SS implementation
Design the audit sheets and conduct the internal audit to gauge the performance.
Comparison between existing and proposed SORT states
Table 12 Comparision of SORT States
Red Tag Maintenance hold tag.
Figure 31 Developed RED tag Figure 32 Developed Maintenance Hold Tag
Existing Proposed Benifits
33.33% of storage space
in the form of empty
racks in the fabric layout
storage not being used
effectively.
The storage space used
effectively by placing
fabric rolls.
 100% utilization
storage of space.
Infrequently and
frequently used fabric
rolls and inventory stored
hazardly in the sub store.
Infrequently and
frequently used fabric
rolls and accessories
sorted and properly
placed.
 Easy retrieval of
items.
 Less clutter to
interfere with
productive work
Proper methodologies
and procedures not used
for identifying and
retrieving of fabric rolls
Implemented where in
fabric rolls are sorted.
Rack numbering tags also
used.
 Easy visual
identification
and retrieval of
accessories.
 Simplification
of tasks

67
After Implementation:
Department responsibilities for storage or disposal of items to the Red Tag area
Any department staff member that has approval from the Director or Manager of that department
can place an asset into the Red Tag area. An asset placed into this area must have a Red Tag
affixed to it using a thread tag. The Red Tag must have the following information completed.
Apply date.
Department the asset is from and signature of department Manager
Reason it was placed in the Red Tag area. i.e. storage or disposal
Item description, Quantity and Reason
3.5.5 Disposition of Red Tagged Items
When items are red tagged, there are several options on what to do with them.
 Throw them in the trash.
 Scrap or recycle the item.
 Sell the item.
 Donate the item to a charitable organization.
 Give the item to employees, or auction them. (Note: this opens the door for bad apples to
red tag items for personal use. Uncommon, but worth mentioning.)
 Don’t just move an item out of an area. Red tag it first. It will help prevent surprises.
 Don’t let the red tag area turn into a dump. Items must have some value to be placed there.
 Make someone responsible for the red tag area, or it will slowly (or rapidly!) deteriorate.
 Train everyone in the work area on red tags, even if they are not on an improvement team. They
need to know what to do if a piece of necessary equipment gets tagged.
Figure 33 Red Tagged Area with Tags

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3.6 Reducing Man power in Cutting & Finishing Departments.
As in the industry the man power of cutting departments were seems to be more but the
productivity is up to average only, So I did capacity study of whole cutting Department to analyse
the required man power for the work.
3.6.1 Cutting section Man power Budgeting.
EVERBLUE APPARELS LTD, DODDABALLAPURA
Manpower Budget-Cutting Section
Sl Designation Required Actual Excess/Short Remarks
1 Assistant Manager tbc 0
2 Incharge 1.00 1 0.00
3
Supervisor
4.00 7 3.00
Layering & Cutting-2, Numbering
& Bundling-1, Fusing &
Embelleshment Follow up-1
4 Assistant supervisor 0.00 1 1.00
5 Executive-Production 1.00 0 -1.00 Production Executive
6
Layer
14.00 17 3.00
Spreading-Body, Pocketing
,Fusing & Relaying
7
Cutter
9.00
18 7.50
Cutting-Body, Pocketing,Fusing &
Relay cutting
8 Band Knife Cutters 1.50 Waist band & Pocketing
9 Numbering 5.00 14 9.00 Body, Pocketing
10 Helper
Fusing 7
43 21.00
Sorting, Bundling & Bundle
Storage
10
Side seam & Inseam Marking 3
Fabric Loading to cutting
tables(body & pocketing)
2
11 Feeding helper 2 2 0.00
12 Computer Operator 2 2 0.00
13 Recutter 3 3 0.00
14 CAM Operator tbc 3
15 Pattern Maker tbc 4
Quality Dept
16 Assistant tbc 1
17 Auditor 1 1 0.00
18 Pannel checking 9.00
13 1.00
19 Checkers 3 Marker. Layering & Cut parts
20 Quality Executive tbc 1
21 QC 1 1 0.00
22
Embelleshments sending &
receiving 2
Total Manpower 80.50 132 52
Note: Tbc----To be confirmed
Table 13 Cutting Dept Man Power Budgeting

69
Where I identified Excess of 52 people in Cutting Department & Same as been reported to IE
Manager after the submission of this report, Management taken necessary action regarding this &
made the proper allotment of man power allocation.
3.6.2 Finishing Department Man power Budgeting
LEVIS NON LEVIS TOTAL LEVIS NON LEVIS TOTAL LEVIS NON-LEVIS TOTAL
Rivet Area(3 Hole
button operator) 4 4 8 1 2 3 3 2 5
Leather patch Tailor 8 7 15 5 3 8 3 4 7
Alteration Tailor 13 10 23 13 10 23 0 0 0
TOTAL 25 21 46 19 15 34 6 6 12
Rivet Area 2 2 4 2 2 4 0 0 0
Checking Area 20 16 36 20 24 44 0 -8 -8
Presentation Area 7 8 15 4 5 9 3 3 6
Shade Checking 2 1 3 1 1 2 1 0 1
TOTAL 31 27 58 27 32 59 4 -5 -1
Darner 4 4 8 4 4 8 0 0 0
TOTAL 4 4 8 4 4 8 0 0 0
DEPUTY MANAGER 1 1 2 1 1 2 0 0 0
TOTAL 1 1 2 1 1 2 0 0 0
DESPATCHER 2 2 4 2 2 4 0 0 0
TOTAL 2 2 4 2 2 4 0 0 0
Rivet Area 4 4 8 3 3 6 1 1 2
Trimming Area 3 4 7 3 3 6 0 1 1
Checking Area 4 4 8 4 4 8 0 0 0
Ironing Area 2 2 4 2 2 4 0 0 0
Presentation Area 5 2 7 2 2 4 3 0 3
Packing 1 1 2 1 1 2 0 0 0
TOTAL 19 17 36 15 15 30 4 2 6
Rivet Area 14 2 16 6 1 7 8 1 9
Rivet Area(Leather
loading,Washing
loading,Helper) 3 2 5 2 1 3 1 1 2
Rivet Area(Fly button
marking) 2 2 4 1 1 2 1 1 2
Trimming Section 39 34 73 30 35 65 9 -1 8
Thread Sucking 2 2 4 1 1 2 1 1 2
Ironing(Heat seal) 3 3 6 5 3 8 -2 0 -2
Spot Wash 1 1 2 1 1 2 0 0 0
Presentation 11 8 19 4 4 8 7 4 11
TOTAL 75 54 129 50 47 97 25 7 32
Rivet Area 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 0
Finishing 1 1 2 1 1 2 0 0 0
Packing 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 0
Despatching 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 0
TOTAL 3 2 5 3 2 5 0 0 0
FINISHING MANPOWER BUDGETING
DESPATCHER
ALTERATION TAILOR
CHECKER
DARNER
DEPUTY MANAGER
ACTUAL
INCHARGE
HELPER
EXCESS/SHORT
FEEDING HELPER
REQUIRED
DESIGNATION
Table 14 Finishing Department Man Power
Budgeting

70
In Finishing Department Totally 107 people are in excess this many peoples are allocated to other
department after submitting Report to IE Manager.
LEVIS NON LEVIS TOTAL LEVIS NON LEVIS TOTAL LEVIS NON-LEVIS TOTAL
Ironer 21 14 35 9 9 18 12 5 17
TOTAL 21 14 35 9 9 18 12 5 17
Measurement checker 6 6 12 4 6 10 2 0 2
TOTAL 6 6 12 4 6 10 2 0 2
PACKER 29 27 56 17 19 36 12 8 20
TOTAL 29 27 56 17 19 36 12 8 20
QC 4 3 7 3 3 6 1 0 1
TOTAL 4 3 7 3 3 6 1 0 1
QUALITY AUDITOR 2 1 3 2 1 3 0 0 0
TOTAL 2 1 3 2 1 3 0 0 0
K/B OPERATOR 13 13 26 5 8 13 8 5 13
TOTAL 13 13 26 5 8 13 8 5 13
RIVET AREA 1 1 2 0 0 0 1 1 2
TRIMMING 1 1 2 1 1 2 0 0 0
CHECKING 1 1 2 1 1 2 0 0 0
IRONER 1 1 2 1 1 2 0 0 0
PRESENTATION 2 1 3 1 1 2 1 0 1
PACKING 1 1 2 1 1 2 0 0 0
TOTAL 7 6 13 5 5 10 2 1 3
RIVET AREA 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 1
IRONING 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 1
TOTAL 1 1 2 0 0 0 1 1 2
OCR 4 4 8 4 4 8 0 0 0
TOTAL 4 4 8 4 4 8 0 0 0
GRAND TOTAL 247 203 450 170 173 343 77 30 107
ACTUAL REQUIRED EXCESS/SHORT
IRONER
FINISHING MANPOWER BUDGETING
DESIGNATION
OCR
MEASUREMENT CHECKER
SUPERVISOR
PACKER
QUALITY CHECKER
QUALITY AUDITOR
RIVET & BUTTONING(K/B OPERATOR)
TEAM LEADER
Table 15 Finishing Department Man Power Budgeting

71
3.7 Implemented Preventive Maintenance Card to Machines
Maintenance is an important system in operation. In an era where industries are focusing
on 24 hours operation to maximize production, machines are pushed to its absolute limits to cope
with this demand. As utilization increases, the rate at which the machine parts get worn out
increases thus the frequency of failure increases rapidly. To combat this problem and ensure that
machines continue to operate at its optimum, maintenance work is carried out. One of the
branches of maintenance technique which is carried out to prevent occurrences of failure before it
happen is known as Preventive Maintenance (PM). However, performing PM may not be as easy
as it requires great co-operation from the maintenance, production and management departments.
3.7.1 Implementation of Preventive Maintenance (PM)
Corrective maintenance and (CM) preventive maintenance (PM) at time intervals are the most
common maintenance techniques. CM is defined as a fire fighting approach where equipment is
allowed to run without interruptions and maintenance activities are conducted only when
equipment fails. It requires minimum number of manpower and money spends to monitor the
condition of equipment’s . However, the downside is high maintenance cost will be required when
any catastrophic failure happen. On the other hand, PM is a basic maintenance technique which is
usually applied in manufacturing environment in order to facilitate the production flow as well as
enhancing the equipment efficiency. PM usually relates to schedule with fixed time interval that is
done daily, weekly, monthly or some other predetermined intervals. The use of performances
interval is to implement preventive task when needed. Usually when applying PM, maintenance
activities are planned and scheduled based on equipment’s requirement and historical data of
failures. The planned activities involves the documented maintenances task, labor resources
requirements, parts and material requirements, duration to perform task and also other technical
references related to equipment. The activities are organized according to work’s priority, the
work order, labour resource availability, duration to perform task as well as planning of parts and
materials.
PM plays a crucial role in planning an effective maintenance schedule which can be incorporated
with production scheduling, so that this will lead to the efficiency and effectiveness in
manufacturing system. Therefore, it is essential that production planning and PM activities can be
carried out in an integrated way in order to avoid the failures which causes the need to do re-
planning. Nevertheless, there are a lots of problems occur during implementation of PM. For
instance, the overlapping between PM planning and production scheduling. The issue of

72
integrating both areas is highlighted due to its importance in the current highly competitive
environment. Thus, this will lead to the other problems that influence in operating system such as
production flow, set up times, cause downtime, increase the waste and the deterioration of
equipment.
“Prevention is better than cure” should be applied in solving maintenance problems in
manufacturing environment as PM activities should be done properly to avoid consequences of
inefficient production scheduling and PM planning. In particular, the manufacturing data should
be employed in implementing PM, thus will help to facilitate the production flow. As PM been
carried out with good decision making in manufacturing facilities, this will lead to restore the
production line to an ‘as-good-as-new’ status. A proper PM schedule should be conducted wisely
according to the planning, so that, the flow of production and PM activities can be carried out
well. Thus, this will enhance the efficiency of production output without having any difficulties
regarding equipment failures or downtime.
3.7.2 Issues Involved In The Uneffective Preventive Maintenance
Figure 34

73
3.7.3 Analysis of effective PM using Tree diagram
Figure 35
As in the industry for working machines I made a Preventive Check list to improve the useful
life of the machine in order to reduce Breakdown
Preventive check list implemented on
 Sewing Machines
 Band knife Cutting machine

74
 Fusing Machine
3.7.4 SNLS Machine
For SNLS the Preventive maintenance Checklist has been created for all the machines on the
production floor
Checklist Format
Figure 36 Checklist implemented on sewing machines
Check list are Successfully implemented on Sewing machines

75
3.7.5 Band knife Machine.
The checklist are made for band knife machines to prevent sudden breakdown
The check list are been implemented on Band knife
machines

76
3.7.6 Fusing Machine
This checklist are made & implemented on all working machines, where Fusing is the machine
which goes under maintenance often due to high heat & pressure on the machine which is running
for long time in industry.
Practically all check lists are implemented in the industry & it made huge benefit in achieving
“our goal, zero Breakdown”.

77
CHAPTER 4
CONCLUSION
• Cutting & Finishing department man power budgeting helps in reducing the work force for
the process required.
• The fabric feeding to cutting time was reduced by implementing rack numbering & board
to write things in its place.
• This internship was very helpful in giving us a detailed knowledge about the actual and
practical process flow taking place in garment industry. It facilitated us with information
of all stages.
• This was great opportunity to learn all the process in Denim industry.

78
CHAPTER 5
REFERENCES
 Jacobs-Blecha, Charlotte. "System Modeling for Apparel Manufacturing: Focus on the
Cutting Room". Georgia Institute of Technology G93Nl (1993): 161-164. Print.
 Paneru, Naresh. "Implementation of Lean Manufacturing Tools In Garment Manufacturing
Process". (2011): 1-80. Web. 22 Mar. 2011.
 Maynard, H.B. Industrial Engineering Handbook. 3rd ed. New York: San Francisco, 1971.
Print.
 http://fashion2apparel.blogspot.com/2017/03/working-process-cutting-room.html
ACCESSED ON 1/09/2018
 https://www.researchgate.net/publication/235311410_Selection_of_maintenance_policy_f
or_textile_industry_using_hybrid_multi-criteria_decision_making_approach accessed ON
1/09/2018
 Ahlmann, H., The Economic Significance of Maintenance in Industrial Enterprises, Lund
Institute of Technology, Lund University, Sweden, 1998
 Stephen, T. D., Positioning Maintenance as a Competitive Advantage, Plant Engineering,
54(5), pp66-69, 2000.
 Al-Najjar, B. (1996), Total Quality Maintenance: An Approach for Continuous Reduction
in Cost of Quality Products, Journal of Quality in Maintenance Engineering, 2(3), pp2-20,
1996.

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