OFTAMILNADUStyle of dressing by the Tamils were so simple and humble a piece of white cloth measuring four or eight feet with a shirt is enough to complete their dress. Now it is giving way to pant and shirt and even designer dresses. Ladies when attained puberty wore a long shirt with blouse and a piece of cloth called ‘thaavani’ to cover the top portion of the body. After marriage they were sareeand blouse. Now modern dresses are slowly making their way to replace these traditional dresses.

1. COSTUMES AND
TEXTILES OF
TAMIL NADU
Style of dressing by the Tamils were so simple and humble a piece of white cloth measuring
four or eight feet with a shirt is enough to complete their dress. Now it is giving way to pant
and shirt and even designer dresses. Ladies when attained puberty wore a long shirt with
blouse and a piece of cloth called ‘thaavani’ to cover the top portion of the body. After
marriage they were saree and blouse. Now modern dresses are slowly making their way to
replace these traditional dresses.
NAME – TAPASWINI BEHERA
ROLL NO – 32
FD – 1V
SESSION – 2012-2016
NIFT KOLKATA
SUBMITTED TO – PROF. SANDIP MUKHERJEE

2. COSTUMES OF TAMIL NADU
Clothing of Tamil Nadu represents the traditional and
cultural essence of this south Indian state. Men of this state
put on traditional outfits such as Dhoti or Lungi with a shirt
and Angavastra.Females beautify themselves in Sari and
blouse.The costumes of Tamil Nadu have got fame globally
for their grace and beauty. Lyrical references show the in
the age of Sangam, a single piece of outfit is served as both
head covering and lower garment, departing the midriff
and bosom totally uncovered.The costumes posses a
specific aura within zari work and dress materials prevailing
among women.

3. COSTUMES OF WOMEN IN TAMIL NADU
• The women of this state are decked with these traditional sarees
that mark them from rest of the communities, being the abode of
South Indian silk sarees with rich zari work, the costumes reflect
the traditions of India and Tamil Nadu itself.
• Sarees have a special place in the costumes of Tamil Nadu, and are
an indispensable part of the state`s heritage. Saree is the
traditional dress of Indian women and Tamil Nadu women as well.
In Tamil Nadu, sarees are available in a variety of materials like
cotton, chiffon, crepe silk, organza, silk, georgette, Pattola silk,
micro silk, etc.
• Pavada or the half-sari is a traditional outfit that is mostly worn by
the girls.The full-length skirt, davani (a kind of shawl) and blouses
are put on.

4. COSTUMES OF WOMEN IN TAMIL NADU
• Saree, the sheer six yards of pure excellence is one such
costume that ladies of all ages prefer to don for each special
festivity.
• The traditional Tamil woman chooses to drape her heavy
Kanchipuram saree around herself with a blouse.
• The color, texture and style of a sari differ from silk and
cotton. Kanchipuram silk saris are very popular and women
generally wear them on significant occassiona like religious
ceremonies and wedding.
• Embroidered sarees, kurties and salwars are also extensively
worn by the women. Kurti is like a short top.

5. JEWELLRY
• Oddiyanam is a hip belt or waist chain made of gold and sometimes has a
centre-piece featuring goddesses or some abstract images and sometimes
encrusted with precious gemstones. Oddiyanam is worn to hold the sari up
and provides a slimmer waist appearance.
• The Maangaamaalai is a necklace of mangoes, stunning in appearance,
consisting of stone-studded gold mangoes strung together with a huge
pendant of encrusted peacocks.
• Thaali or Maangalsutra holds special place for a married Indian woman
and is termed as one of the most precious ornaments for them. It is usually
made of a string of small sized black beads with a small pendant or locket in
the centre.The locket could be shaped like a tulsi (holy basil plant), the
shape of Vishnu or it could be heavily stone-studded as worn by Chettinad
women.
• Vanki is an armlet shaped like a snake or floral arch is worn on the upper
arm by the women of Tamil Nadu. It is usually in the form of an inverted V-
shaped form that allows for flexibility for different sizes.

6. JEWELLRY
• Jhimki also known as Jhumki or Jhumka is a bell-shaped ear jewel set
in coloured stones with pearls hanging at the lower end.Tamil Nadu is
famous for its lotus shaped earring that the jhumkis hang down from.
They are usually studded with diamonds or rubies.
• Mattals are the stone studded chain that hanging earrings are strung
onto.They are secured onto the hair on either side connecting the side
hair to the earring, and cover the ears of the wearer.They are usually
made of gold and pearls and are hooked to the earrings.
• Older women in rural areas wear heavy gold ornamented ear jewellery
called ‘paambadam’made of six earrings. Ear studs can be
kadukkan(single stone), kammal(lotus shaped), jimikki(bell shaped ear
drops), lolaakku(ear drops of any design) or maattal which is made of
gold or pearls and is hookedto the earring and the attached to the hair
above the ear.

7. COSTUMES OF MEN OF TAMILNADU
• Costumes of Tamil Nadu are although not just restricted to the
fairer gender only; men also occupy a considerable position. Men
are generally encountered dressed in lungi, together with a shirt
and Angavastra.
• The traditional and tremendously popular lungi originated in the
South and it is purely a short length of material worn around the
thighs, resembling a sarong.
• Dhoti is a rather longer lungi, but with an additional length of
material hauled up within the legs.The lungi is a rectangular cloth,
normally manufactured from cotton, draped around the waist and
pleated in front at the groin.
• The Angavastra is an elongated piece of cloth wrapped around the
shoulders. In earlier times it was donned instead of an upper
garment, but nowadays men wear an Angavastra over a shirt.

8. TEXTILES OF TAMIL NADU
Kanjeevaram silk saree is a magnificent creation of the craftsmen living in a small town, Kanchi
(Kanchipuram), situated near the Bangalore city of South India.The saree has been named after the town in
which it is produced.The silk used in the creation of Kanjivaram saree is extremely fine as well as durable
and is one of the most popular forms of silk in the state of Tamil Nadu.The bold and bright color of the sari is
very much preferred by the South Indian women, whose trousseau remains incomplete without this amazing
outfit.

9. KANJIVARAM SAREES
• Saris have become an integral part of Tamilnadu and it is one of the
important aspects during the celebrations, weddings and festivals.
Indian saris always come out very well with mind blowing hues and
textures, which are loved to be adorned by Indian women. Among
the varieties of classical India saris, Kanchipuram sari holds a
dignified place and it is loved by the Indian women for its quality.
• Kanchipuram, a city in Tamilnadu has the pride of being the
birthplace of Kanchipuram sari (or Kanjivaram sari). Kanchipuram
saris are the traditionally woven saris, which have highest place in
the silk saree industry.
• Kanchipuram sari is one of the most superior silk saris in the world,
reputed for the weaving style and the broad borders. It is preferred
for the brides during marriage for its durability and grandeur.

10. KANJEEVARAM SAREES
• PLACE OF ORIGIN-
As the name implies, the Kanchipuram sari originates from Kanchipuram, a
city in Tamil Nadu. It is about 72km from Chennai – the capital of Tamil Nadu.
The city can be easily reached by road and rail. Kanchipuram can be called
as “The capital of Silk”.This place churns out silk saris through 20,000 looms
with 2-3 weavers working on each loom. About 400,000 to 500,000
Kanchipuram silk saris are woven in Kanchipuram every year.
• HISTORY-
Kanchipuram attained eminence during the period of Krishna Deveraya’s
period. It was during this period when two weaving communities – the
Devangas and the Saligars – migrated to Kanchipuram from Andhra Pradesh,
the neighboring state to Tamilnadu.The Devangas and the Saligars are
experts in weaving silk saris that are worn by the women during festivals and
functions.There were nearly 129 finely crafted temples in Kanchipuram,
where the rituals and the wedding ceremonies are conducted more often and
the women wear silk saris for all the functions.

11. KANJEEVARAM SAREES
• LEGENDS –
The legend says that the weavers of Kanchipuram are the descendents of the
sage Markanda, the Master Weaver of Gods.The favorite fabric of Lord Shiva
is said to be cotton, whereas the favorite fabric of Lord Vishnu is silk.This is
the reason for abounding the looms around Lord Vishnu temples.
• AESTHETICS –
Kanchipuram saris holds special name for the intricate designing work
and the colors of the saris.The body designs are woven with golden
threads and borders.The motifs that are woven are sun, moon, chariot,
peacocks, swans, parrots, flowers, lions, coins, mangoes and leaves.Two
of the used designer patterns are Mallinaggu (jasmine flowers scattered
like dew over the body) and Thandavalam (parallel lines running
alongside to each other).The saris also display the structures of temples
– the Ekambaranathar and Avudaliyari saris bear the designs of these
shrines.

12. KANJEEVARAM SAREES
• AESTHETICS –
In these saris, gold is incorporated in the motifs by dipping the silk
thread in liquid gold and silver.The cost of these saris starts from Rs.
2,500/- The silk saris are mainly reputed for its zari, which composes of
57% of silver and 0.6% of gold.The colors used in the borders and pallu
are different from the colors used in the rest of the sari.

13. KANJEEVARAM SAREES

14. KANJEEVARAM SAREES
• FABRIC IN KANJEEVARAM SAREE –
The Kanjeevaram sari is made of a heavy silk called Kanjivaram silk, so
durable that it can be washed in water at home. It is one of the most finest and
most popular forms of silk in Tamilnadu.
Kanjee silk is thicker than almost all other silks, and is therefore more
expensive.The heavier the silk, the better the quality.
While there are light weight Kanjee sarees made from Korean and Chinese
silk, only mulberry silk produced in Karnataka and few parts of Tamil Nadu, is
right silk for the classic Kanjeevaram sari.

15. KANJEEVARAM SAREES
• THE PROCESS –
The creation of a Kanjeevaram sari is no easy task.The process
begins with the the silk thread being twisted, then dyed and dried in
the sun after which it is ready for the weaver's loom.
The weaver creates the border, body and pallu separately and then
interlocks them together in an impossible to detach joint. A weaver
takes about 10-12 days to weave a simple Kanjeevaram sari while
decorative ones could take up to 20 days.
Kanjeevarams are favoured for their durability.
The kanjivaram silk saris is noted for its double warp and double
weft. In a genuine kanjivaram silk sari , the border, body and the
pallu are woven separately and then interlocked together.This joint
is woven so strongly that even if the sari tears, the pallu or border
will not detatch.

16. KANJEEVARAM SAREES
• THE PROCESS –
The gold in the motifs in Kanjivaram silk saris is incorporated by dipping
the silk threads into liquid gold and silver.This enhances the ethnic beauty
and value of silk.
The Kanjivaram silk saris are woven from pure mulberry silk.They are of
enviable texture , luster, durability and finish.The saris come in an array of
dazzling colors and are available in every imaginable design and variety.

17. The motifs , colors that are used in the sarees to increase the aesthetics of the sarees.

18. KANJEEVARAM SAREES
• DESIGN AND MOTIFS –
Kanjeevaram silk sarees are always of bold and bright colour
contrasts, favoured by almost every Indian woman.
 Peacock and parrot are the most common motifs.
 Major attractions are the also beautiful tribal designs.
 Now focus is also on contemporary patterns.
 These are sarees of vivid colour contrasts with traditional patterns
derived from the Pallava temples, palaces and paintings.
 Scenes from the Ramayana and the Mahabharata

19. KANJEEVARAM SAREES
• DESIGN AND MOTIFS –
 Bhagwad Gita being incorporated into these works of art.
 The sarees can also be a plain silk saree.
 There can also be little gold motifs scattered all over its body.
 There are also sarees with gold squares or stripes.
 Every sari is an artistic creation, a unique masterpiece and no two
sarees are alike.

21. KANJEEVARAM SAREES
• COLORS –
 Bright blues, purples and greens, or vibrant reds, oranges or
yellows have formed the traditional colour palette.
 Recently, colors have been combined to create a blue-green that
varies according to light, or a sari that is beige in daylight and
golden under artificial light.
 Combinations have also changed traditional paisley motifs or
tales of mythology in the embroidery.

22. CONCLUSION
• Kancheepuram silk holds the reputation for its 500-year-old tradition. Kanchipuram silk
industry is known for producing heavyweight stiff silk saris that are woven using thick zari for
supplementary warp and weft patterns.The threads are dipped in rice water and dried in Sun.
It takes 8 to 15 days to weave a Kancheepuram silk saree and the time duration depends upon
the uniqueness and the intricacy of the designs. Kanchipuram saris are popular all over the
world for its rich shining colors, finish and its beauty. People travel a long way to Kanchipuram
for purchasing saris for the family functions and festivals. Kanchipuram sarees have been
exported to the US, Sri Lanka, Italy and Russia since 1960. Kanchipuram silk sari is one of the 18
Geographical Indication (GI) tagged products of the Tamilnadu government. It is protected by
the GI label that does not only certify its geographical origin, but also confirms its adherence
to the standards.Some of the recently available products are Aishwarya Kanchipuram Saree,
Anuradha Kanchipuram Saree,Ankusha Kanchipuram Saree, Aradhana Kanchipuram Saree,
Tammana Silk Saree, Chandralekha Embroidery Saree, Anusha Kanchipuram Saree, Apeksha
Kanchipuram Saree, Amitha Kanchipuram Saree and Chinmai Kanchipuram Saree. In Chennai,
you can buy Kanchipuram silk sarees in shops like Pothys, RmKV,The Chennai Silks, Shri
Kumaran Silks and Nalli silks. If you wish to buy these saris with comparatively lower prices,
you can directly purchase them from Kanchipuram.