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TEXTILES OF TAMILNADU
COSTUMES & TEXTILES OF TAMIL NADU
COSTUMES OF TAMIL NADU….
 Costumes of Tamil Nadu for the most part comprise the traditional
wears. The women of this state are decked with these traditional
sarees that mark them from rest of the communities. The ageless
charm of these sarees is the identity of the people of Tamil Nadu.
 The South Indian costumes possess a certain aura within their dress
materials, with zari work predominating amongst women and white
dhoti amongst men.
 In Tamil Nadu women don the ubiquitous Indian saree and blouse,
whereas, men wear `lungi` together with a shirt and `Angavastra.`
ATTIRES FOR WOMEN….
 The traditionalTamilianwomen prefer to drape her heavy Kanchipuram Sari
around herself,the lower part of the calf uncovered, the extra bit of pallu created
thereby wound around her waist.What is striking about her is that she wears the
most gorgeous of Kanchipuram Sari in the most casual way; its like she’s dressed
to go to a wedding every day.
 A sari is a rectangular piece of cloth, which are five to six yards in length. The
style, colour and texture of this cloth varies and it might be made from cotton, silk
or one of the several man-made materials.
 The sari has an ageless charm since it is not cut or tailoredfor a particularsize. In
Tamil Nadu, sarisare available in a wide varietyof fabrics - silks,cottons,
chiffons, georgettesand crepes; the list could go on and on.
ATTIRES FOR MEN….
 Men are generally encountered dressed in lungi, together with a shirt and
Angavastra.The traditionaland tremendously popular lungi originatedin the
South and it is purely a short length of materialworn around the thighs,
resemblinga sarong. A dhoti is a rather longer lungi, but withan additional
length of materialhauled up withinthe legs.
 The lungi is a rectangular cloth, normally manufactured from cotton, draped
around the waistand pleatedin front at the groin. The Angavastra is an
elongated piece of cloth wrapped around the shoulders. In earliertimes it
was donned instead of an upper garment,but nowadays men wear an
angavastra over a shirt.
TEXTILES…..
 TextileIndustry of Tamil Nadu is the forerunner in Industrial
Development and in providing massive employment in the
State. It is predominantlySpinning-oriented. The State Textile
Industry has a significantpresence in the National economy
also.
 Out of 2049 large and medium textile mills in India, 893 mills
are locatedin Tamil Nadu. Similarly, out of 996 small units in
India, 792 are located in Tamil Nadu. The 893 large and
medium textile mills include 18CooperativeSpinning Mills,
17 National TextileCorporationMills and 23 Composite Mills.
 This industry enablesthe Central and State Government to earn
revenue, besides foreign exchange throughexports.
(A) FUNCTIONS OF TEXTILE MILLS IN TAMIL NADU…
B) COOPERATIVE SPINNING MILLS
 In Tamil Nadu, there are 18 Cooperative
Spinning Mills situated in various Districts,
which were started between 1958 and 1985
with an object of providing un-interrupted
supply of quality hank yarn to the Cooperative
Handloom Weavers at reasonable rates. The
installed capacity of 4.69 lakh spindles have
since been downsized to 2.86 lakh spindles.
WEAVING IN TAMILNADU…
 Early recordsspeak of fine muslin and silks and hand painted calicos
that the Greeks came to buy from Tamizhagam, the home of Tamil.
Uraiyur/Karurand Madurai, situated close to the cotton fields, were
major centres of weaving. They still are the most prominent centers for
the exquisite weaving products.
 Weavingwas a highly regarded profession. It is said the Chola princes
wore only cotton. The king's robe was of quiltedcotton, with a
garment worked with gold. Soldiers also used quilted cottonfabrics.
 Tanjavour is well known for its cottonweaving with several centres
around the state. Cotton has long been the mainstayof the textilesof
Tamil Nadu and one sees a wide range here. Madurai and Salem
specialise in fine gold-bordered Dhotis,with Madurai's Dhotis
considereda little superiorin their weaving and Zari to those of Salem.
 From the coarse Chettinad saris to the saris of
Salem, Rasipuram and Coimbatore, to the fine
gold bordered muslins of Madurai or its more
recent medium weight reasonable saris that are
printed or resist-dyed and are popularly referred
to as the "Madurai Sungudi", the weaves of
Tamil Nadu offer wide choices.
KANCHIPURAM SILKS ….
 Kanchipuram is famous for its silks. As the vast
range of cottons are not withstanding, these
textiles are overshadowed by their glamorous
counterpart, the silks and more specifically those
from Kanchipuram.
 The temple city of Kanchipuram is also the silk
city of India. It has a thriving handloom
industry with an enviable reputation as the
producer of the best silk sarees in India.
 Each of the Kanchipuram silk saree is unique in itself since it
is entirely hand woven with dyed silk yarn with interleaved
designs made with 'Zari' - a Silk thread twisted with thin
Silver wire and then gilded with pure Gold.
 Technically, the silk thread used for weaving Kanchipuram
Sarees is made up of three single threads twisted together.
Woven from pure mulberry silk, these sarees have classic
texture, luster, durability and finish. With their dazzling colors
and exquisite designs.
 Kanchipuram silk sarees are worn by the rich and affluent
across India.
FROM COTTON TO SILK …..
 Research suggests that silk was a new entrant into Kanchipuram, for till
a century and a half back, Kanchipuram was primarily a cotton-weaving
centre. It was the Thanjavur -Kumbakonam belt and 'Arni' along with
Salem that produced the "Pattu Pudavai" Today the finer, better-woven
and more expensive silk saris are from Kanchipuram.
 Kanchipuram silk saris are woven in two parts. The Pallu-and-border are
woven as one unit and attached to the body of the sari, which is woven
separately. The motifs used are derived from traditional temple
architectural forms.
 Specialising in heavy weight "Murukku Pattu" the weaves of
Kanchipuram weave three ply, high denier threads, using thick Zari
threads for supplementary warp and weft patterning. The main
characteristic of this sari lies in the time consuming method of
interlocking its weft colours as well as its end piece and in the process
creating solid borders and a solid 'Mundhi' (end pieces). If well done one
hardly sees where one colour ends and the other begins.
THANJAVUR AND KUMBAKONAM SILKS…
 Thanjavur is another silk center, which
specialises in the use of Zari and brocade
work. These saris are heavy and opulent.
Thanjavur and Kumbakonam create saris
similar to Kanchipuram but the Mundhi or
end pieces are finished differently. Using a
technique called "Porai" the weavers pull
the warp threads, at the join of two colours,
into loops at the back and then cut it close.
 Kumbakonam is also famous for Silk
Sarees. Traditional silk sarees are
available in kumbakonam. Mogurtha Pattu
dhoties and sarees are specially designed
here. Other than Marriage function, the
people like these type of clothes for casual
festivals like deepavali, pongal and other
temple festivals. These types of sarees are
export to all part of the India and other
Countries.
ARNI - CENTRE OF SILK FABRICS :
 Arni, a town near Kanchipuram,
produces light silk, often shot
fabric, mainly in checks of orange
and red. This town once wove very
expensive silks but now
concentrates on single colour
lightweight textiles with zari
borders and zari 'Pallus'. But with
increasing labour costs pushing up
the prices of Kanchipurams, Arni is
slowly coming into its own with
attempts to weave the
Kanchipuram at competitive prices.
TRADITIONAL DRESS OF TAMIL NADU.. INCLUDING
COLORS, DESIGNS, MOTIFS…..
 The basic and the most traditional women
dress of Tamil nadu is the 'Pavada Davani'
famous by the name of half saree. It is a
three piece clothing which includes a long
lower garment resembling a petticoat or a
long skirt; a choli blouse; and a long
'dupatta' like strip of cloth which is about as
long as a half saree. It is usually worn by the
village girls in Tamil Nadu. However, the
Kanchipuram or the Kanjivaram sarees are
the most famous traditional costume of Tamil
Nadu.
 The designs on the body of the sari are
woven with gold thread and the saree have
varied motifs on it, ranging from figures to
temples, along the border. The rich silk
fabric, elaborate weaving designs and
contrasting borders have made kanjivaram
sarees popular not only in Tamil Nadu and
India but all over the world.
 Many traditional Indian sarees of Tamil Nadu,
apart from the famous kanjivaram sarees,
constitute the traditional costume of Tamil Nadu.
The Kodalikareppur or Karpur saris made in
the village of Kolli Karpur is a mixture of hand
painting, block printing and brocade weaving.
 The Kora cotton saris, woven widely in
Coimbatore district, have a self-designed
jacquard pattern all over. Kurainadu and
Kodambakkam saris are made by blending
cotton and silk with beautiful geometric and floral
designs. The Poornakumbham cotton saris are
the fine cotton textured saris woven with
rudraksha motifs and highlighted with pearls
and cross lines.
 The Chungadi sarees of Madurai are basically
made with the technique of tie and dye. Bright
colors like red, purple, blue and black are used
in these srees which have unique kolam
(geometric) or rangoli patterns with borders in
contrast colors. The Tribhuvanam silk saris are
made by highly skilled weavers and have floral
and animal designs on them.
Inspiration: Kanchipuram Silks
Fabric Swatch..
Rendered Croqui..
 The idea to develop the croquie was to keep the feminity and the traditional
garment adorn by the females of Tamil Nadu.
 Sari is the essential wear for occasional and dancing or cultural programs.
 I’ve given bit exaggerated form of the traditional blouse and sari towards more
contemporary mode. The sari is the most essential part of any women's
wardrobe and it makes them look like a goddess / gives substance to their
personality.
 The red color denotes the vermilion and usage of the color into their various
traditions. The motifs are traditional with straight line borders.
Reference:---
www.indianetzone.com/costumes_tamilnadu.htm
www.wikipedia.org
Thank You…

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Costumes & textiles of Tamil Nadu

  • 2. COSTUMES & TEXTILES OF TAMIL NADU
  • 3. COSTUMES OF TAMIL NADU….  Costumes of Tamil Nadu for the most part comprise the traditional wears. The women of this state are decked with these traditional sarees that mark them from rest of the communities. The ageless charm of these sarees is the identity of the people of Tamil Nadu.  The South Indian costumes possess a certain aura within their dress materials, with zari work predominating amongst women and white dhoti amongst men.  In Tamil Nadu women don the ubiquitous Indian saree and blouse, whereas, men wear `lungi` together with a shirt and `Angavastra.`
  • 4. ATTIRES FOR WOMEN….  The traditionalTamilianwomen prefer to drape her heavy Kanchipuram Sari around herself,the lower part of the calf uncovered, the extra bit of pallu created thereby wound around her waist.What is striking about her is that she wears the most gorgeous of Kanchipuram Sari in the most casual way; its like she’s dressed to go to a wedding every day.  A sari is a rectangular piece of cloth, which are five to six yards in length. The style, colour and texture of this cloth varies and it might be made from cotton, silk or one of the several man-made materials.  The sari has an ageless charm since it is not cut or tailoredfor a particularsize. In Tamil Nadu, sarisare available in a wide varietyof fabrics - silks,cottons, chiffons, georgettesand crepes; the list could go on and on.
  • 5. ATTIRES FOR MEN….  Men are generally encountered dressed in lungi, together with a shirt and Angavastra.The traditionaland tremendously popular lungi originatedin the South and it is purely a short length of materialworn around the thighs, resemblinga sarong. A dhoti is a rather longer lungi, but withan additional length of materialhauled up withinthe legs.  The lungi is a rectangular cloth, normally manufactured from cotton, draped around the waistand pleatedin front at the groin. The Angavastra is an elongated piece of cloth wrapped around the shoulders. In earliertimes it was donned instead of an upper garment,but nowadays men wear an angavastra over a shirt.
  • 6. TEXTILES…..  TextileIndustry of Tamil Nadu is the forerunner in Industrial Development and in providing massive employment in the State. It is predominantlySpinning-oriented. The State Textile Industry has a significantpresence in the National economy also.  Out of 2049 large and medium textile mills in India, 893 mills are locatedin Tamil Nadu. Similarly, out of 996 small units in India, 792 are located in Tamil Nadu. The 893 large and medium textile mills include 18CooperativeSpinning Mills, 17 National TextileCorporationMills and 23 Composite Mills.  This industry enablesthe Central and State Government to earn revenue, besides foreign exchange throughexports. (A) FUNCTIONS OF TEXTILE MILLS IN TAMIL NADU…
  • 7. B) COOPERATIVE SPINNING MILLS  In Tamil Nadu, there are 18 Cooperative Spinning Mills situated in various Districts, which were started between 1958 and 1985 with an object of providing un-interrupted supply of quality hank yarn to the Cooperative Handloom Weavers at reasonable rates. The installed capacity of 4.69 lakh spindles have since been downsized to 2.86 lakh spindles.
  • 8. WEAVING IN TAMILNADU…  Early recordsspeak of fine muslin and silks and hand painted calicos that the Greeks came to buy from Tamizhagam, the home of Tamil. Uraiyur/Karurand Madurai, situated close to the cotton fields, were major centres of weaving. They still are the most prominent centers for the exquisite weaving products.  Weavingwas a highly regarded profession. It is said the Chola princes wore only cotton. The king's robe was of quiltedcotton, with a garment worked with gold. Soldiers also used quilted cottonfabrics.  Tanjavour is well known for its cottonweaving with several centres around the state. Cotton has long been the mainstayof the textilesof Tamil Nadu and one sees a wide range here. Madurai and Salem specialise in fine gold-bordered Dhotis,with Madurai's Dhotis considereda little superiorin their weaving and Zari to those of Salem.
  • 9.  From the coarse Chettinad saris to the saris of Salem, Rasipuram and Coimbatore, to the fine gold bordered muslins of Madurai or its more recent medium weight reasonable saris that are printed or resist-dyed and are popularly referred to as the "Madurai Sungudi", the weaves of Tamil Nadu offer wide choices.
  • 10. KANCHIPURAM SILKS ….  Kanchipuram is famous for its silks. As the vast range of cottons are not withstanding, these textiles are overshadowed by their glamorous counterpart, the silks and more specifically those from Kanchipuram.  The temple city of Kanchipuram is also the silk city of India. It has a thriving handloom industry with an enviable reputation as the producer of the best silk sarees in India.
  • 11.  Each of the Kanchipuram silk saree is unique in itself since it is entirely hand woven with dyed silk yarn with interleaved designs made with 'Zari' - a Silk thread twisted with thin Silver wire and then gilded with pure Gold.  Technically, the silk thread used for weaving Kanchipuram Sarees is made up of three single threads twisted together. Woven from pure mulberry silk, these sarees have classic texture, luster, durability and finish. With their dazzling colors and exquisite designs.  Kanchipuram silk sarees are worn by the rich and affluent across India.
  • 12. FROM COTTON TO SILK …..  Research suggests that silk was a new entrant into Kanchipuram, for till a century and a half back, Kanchipuram was primarily a cotton-weaving centre. It was the Thanjavur -Kumbakonam belt and 'Arni' along with Salem that produced the "Pattu Pudavai" Today the finer, better-woven and more expensive silk saris are from Kanchipuram.  Kanchipuram silk saris are woven in two parts. The Pallu-and-border are woven as one unit and attached to the body of the sari, which is woven separately. The motifs used are derived from traditional temple architectural forms.  Specialising in heavy weight "Murukku Pattu" the weaves of Kanchipuram weave three ply, high denier threads, using thick Zari threads for supplementary warp and weft patterning. The main characteristic of this sari lies in the time consuming method of interlocking its weft colours as well as its end piece and in the process creating solid borders and a solid 'Mundhi' (end pieces). If well done one hardly sees where one colour ends and the other begins.
  • 13. THANJAVUR AND KUMBAKONAM SILKS…  Thanjavur is another silk center, which specialises in the use of Zari and brocade work. These saris are heavy and opulent. Thanjavur and Kumbakonam create saris similar to Kanchipuram but the Mundhi or end pieces are finished differently. Using a technique called "Porai" the weavers pull the warp threads, at the join of two colours, into loops at the back and then cut it close.  Kumbakonam is also famous for Silk Sarees. Traditional silk sarees are available in kumbakonam. Mogurtha Pattu dhoties and sarees are specially designed here. Other than Marriage function, the people like these type of clothes for casual festivals like deepavali, pongal and other temple festivals. These types of sarees are export to all part of the India and other Countries.
  • 14. ARNI - CENTRE OF SILK FABRICS :  Arni, a town near Kanchipuram, produces light silk, often shot fabric, mainly in checks of orange and red. This town once wove very expensive silks but now concentrates on single colour lightweight textiles with zari borders and zari 'Pallus'. But with increasing labour costs pushing up the prices of Kanchipurams, Arni is slowly coming into its own with attempts to weave the Kanchipuram at competitive prices.
  • 15. TRADITIONAL DRESS OF TAMIL NADU.. INCLUDING COLORS, DESIGNS, MOTIFS…..  The basic and the most traditional women dress of Tamil nadu is the 'Pavada Davani' famous by the name of half saree. It is a three piece clothing which includes a long lower garment resembling a petticoat or a long skirt; a choli blouse; and a long 'dupatta' like strip of cloth which is about as long as a half saree. It is usually worn by the village girls in Tamil Nadu. However, the Kanchipuram or the Kanjivaram sarees are the most famous traditional costume of Tamil Nadu.  The designs on the body of the sari are woven with gold thread and the saree have varied motifs on it, ranging from figures to temples, along the border. The rich silk fabric, elaborate weaving designs and contrasting borders have made kanjivaram sarees popular not only in Tamil Nadu and India but all over the world.
  • 16.  Many traditional Indian sarees of Tamil Nadu, apart from the famous kanjivaram sarees, constitute the traditional costume of Tamil Nadu. The Kodalikareppur or Karpur saris made in the village of Kolli Karpur is a mixture of hand painting, block printing and brocade weaving.  The Kora cotton saris, woven widely in Coimbatore district, have a self-designed jacquard pattern all over. Kurainadu and Kodambakkam saris are made by blending cotton and silk with beautiful geometric and floral designs. The Poornakumbham cotton saris are the fine cotton textured saris woven with rudraksha motifs and highlighted with pearls and cross lines.  The Chungadi sarees of Madurai are basically made with the technique of tie and dye. Bright colors like red, purple, blue and black are used in these srees which have unique kolam (geometric) or rangoli patterns with borders in contrast colors. The Tribhuvanam silk saris are made by highly skilled weavers and have floral and animal designs on them.
  • 17. Inspiration: Kanchipuram Silks Fabric Swatch.. Rendered Croqui..
  • 18.  The idea to develop the croquie was to keep the feminity and the traditional garment adorn by the females of Tamil Nadu.  Sari is the essential wear for occasional and dancing or cultural programs.  I’ve given bit exaggerated form of the traditional blouse and sari towards more contemporary mode. The sari is the most essential part of any women's wardrobe and it makes them look like a goddess / gives substance to their personality.  The red color denotes the vermilion and usage of the color into their various traditions. The motifs are traditional with straight line borders.