This document provides information on various Indian crafts and textiles, including pashmina shawls, chanderi sarees, kutch shawls, muga silk, kota sarees, phanek, ilkal sarees, balapuram sarees, kanchipuram sarees, pochampally sarees, ikat sarees, kosa silk, tussar silk, pachra, naga shawls, banarasi sarees, and bhagalpur silk. For each, it describes key characteristics such as materials, weaving techniques, motifs, regions of origin, and processes involved in creating the crafts.

1. CRAFT
CLUSTER
ASSIGNMENT
Submitted by :Shaik dilshad
18107042
Batch 2
B. DES FD
Sem IV

2. • Generic cashmere ranges from 12–21 microns in
diameter, whereas pashmina refers only to those
fibres that range from 12–16 microns.
PASHMINA SHAWLS
• Pashmina accessories are known for their
softness and warmth.
• Pashmina shawls are also known
as shahmina in Kashmir.
• A pashmina shawl is very soft, very warm, and
very fine.
• It is supposed to take more than 15 days for an
artisan to make the final product which is why
this hand woven product is so expensive. Most
intricate of them even take several months to
make.
Raw (left) and de-haired (right)
Cashmere Pashmina wool
Printed pashmina shawl
Pashmina fabric basic
style shawl

3. CHANDERI SAREES
• Traditional coin, floral art, peacocks and geometric
designs are woven into different Chanderi patterns.
• The saris are known for their gold and silver
brocade or zari, fine silk, and opulent embroidery.
Leaf Pattern on Chanderi
Silk Fabric
Golden brocade border
on chanderi saree
• Chanderi is a traditional ethnic fabric characterized by
its lightweight, sheer texture and fine luxurious feel.
• This fabric can be classified into three types –
Chanderi silk cotton, pure silk and Chanderi
• From traditional motifs of flowers, peacock, lotus to modern geometric patterns, today one can find
strikingly beautiful motifs like ‘Nalferma, ‘Dandidar, ‘Chatai’, ‘Jangla’, Mehndi wale haath’ etc.
adorning the Chanderi fabrics. Color palette of Chanderi sarees are predominately ruled by soft
pastel hues, however with changing times, vibrant combinations of red and black, turquoise and
navy blue, fuchsia and white also exist.

4. KUTCH SHAWLS
~Kutch region of the Gujarat
• These are largely woven with Kachchhi motifs in
Bhujodi village of Kutch.
• Traditionally Kachchhi weavers
belong to Marwada and
Maheswari communities.
• KUTCH shawls received geographical indication tag
under the Geographical Indications of Goods
(Registration and Protection) Act, 1999.
• The Kutchi shawls are sold in
domestic markets
• The origin of weaving of Kutchi shawls was
from the Dhadba or what the Kachchhis
call the Hiragiriyu, which is a typical design
style of the dhadba
• Around 2,400 women
are engaged in
preparatory and
finishing processes.

5. KULLU SHAWLS
•A Kullu shawl is a type of shawl made in Kullu,India,which
are weaved by the indigenous kullvi people.
•Typical Kullu shawls have geometrical designs on both
ends. They also have floral designs , the design colours
are usually bright colours, for emphasizing the shawl.
•Kulu shawls are also crafted in yak's wool, sheep
wool, Pashmina, and other handcrafted material.
•Kullu shawls are worn by both: men and women, but
men’s shawls are usually called "Loi" or "Pattu" and are
often plain without any pattern or minimal patterned stripes
on two edges.

6. MUGA SILK
•Muga silk is a variety of wild silk to the state of Assam . The silk is
known for its extreme durability and has a natural yellowish-golden tint
with a shimmering, glossy texture.
•This is one unique fabric where the golden luster increases with age.
Any type of embroidery by a thread can be done on it.
•The time taken to make one single saree is about two months right from
rearing the silkworm to the finished product. The weaving process of
the muga silk saree alone takes up one week to ten days to complete.
•Muga silk cloth is very largely used by the Assamese women as
mekhela, riha-sador sarees.
Muga silk yarns

7. • Kota sarees are usually made of pure cotton
or silk.
• They are also often made of a translucent
muslin material.
• Kota sarees are also often called Masuria
Malmal because they were originally
developed in Mysore.
• Kota sarees have square patterns, which are
known as khats.
• The delicate weave of this saree is done with
fine thread which makes these sarees light
and easy to carry.
KOTA SAREES
Kota Doria Floral Printed
Cotton Saree

8. •Phanek is a traditional loin cloth, Manipuri style of dressing and
culture. The Phanek is usually worn as a mini saree with a blouse
and an upper cloth.
•They are mostly hand woven and are available only in block colors or
stripes. The Innaphi has delicate floral designs on it and is worn like a
dupatta.
•The phanek is the ethnic sarong worn by Manipuri women and is
broadly of two types – the meitei phanek and the tribal phanek.
•It is made up of cotton, silk and other synthetic materials.
PHANEK
The phanek loin cloth will take upto 15-20days to complete,dyed with
natural materials.

9. • Ilkal is a traditional form of Indian saree that
is woven using cotton warp on the body and
art silk warp for both the border and pallu
portion of the saree.
• Sometimes, instead of art silk, pure
silk is also used.
• Ilkal is a sleepy little town in the Bagalkot
district of the Indian state of Karnataka.
• The main body of the saree contains designs
such as stripes, rectangles, and squares.
Sometimes the main body is also left plain.
ILKAL SAREES

10. • The Balarampuram sarees are well
known for its simplicity and worn as a
traditional costume by the women folk
of Kerala.
• It is woven from un-dyed natural
cotton, that compliments the
tropical climate of Kerala.
• It is usually a cream
stretch of cloth with
"Kasavu" (exquisite
embroidery work created
from silver wires coated
with gold) borders.
• A major handloom cluster, Balaramapuram is
a small village in Thiruvananthapuram district
of south Kerala
BALAPURAM SAREES

11. • The Kanchipuram silk sari is a type of silk sari
made in the Kanchipuram region in Tamil
Nadu, India.
• These saris are worn as bridal & special
occasion saris by most women in Tamil Nadu,
Karnataka & Andhra Pradesh. It has been recognized as
a Geographical indication by the Government of India
in 2005–2006.
• The famous Kanjeevaram saree weave
goes back 400 years.
• They used their excellent weaving skills to make the silk
saree that bore images of scriptures and figurines found
on the temples around the village.
KANCHIPURAM SAREES

12. • Pochampally Saree or Pochampalli Ikat is a saree made in
Bhoodan Pochampally, Yadadri Bhuvanagiri district,
Telangana State, India.
• They have traditional geometric patterns in
Ikat style of dyeing.
• Pochampally Ikat uniqueness lies in the
transfer of intricate design and
colouring onto warp and weft threads
first and then weave them together
globally known as double ikat textiles.
• The fabric is cotton, silk and sico – a mix of
silk and cotton
• Increasingly, the colours themselves are from
natural sources and their blends.
POCHAMPALLY SAREES

13. • Ikat patterns are dyed and binded into the threads
before cloth is weaved.
• This differentiates it from the Tie and Dye
process where the fabric is woven in the first
place.
• Ikat is an elaborate dying process done with
silk or cotton fabrics.
• Ikat is a dyeing technique used to pattern textiles that employs
resist dyeing on the yarns prior to dyeing and weaving the fabric.
IKAT SAREES

14. • Kosa silk is obtained from an Indian silkworm – Antheraea
mylitta and is a variety of Tussar silk.
• It is drawn out of cocoons which are
especially grown on specific trees
known as Arjun, Saja and Sal. ... Known
the world over for its soft texture and
purity, this version of Tussar silk is
produced exclusively in India.
• Kosa is extensively used for making traditional Indian
dresses including sarees, kurtas, salwar suits, shirts and
many more garments.
• Available naturally in shades of gold-pale,
dark, honey, tawny, baccoto beige, creamy
KOSA SILK

15. • The strength of the tussar yarn due to its
short fibre length makes it one of the
most durable fabrics.
• Tussar silk is a type of wild silk produced
primarily in the states of West Bengal,
Bihar and Jharkhand.
• Tussar silk stands out in the field of Indian
fabric and threads.
•It has a rich and coarse texture
•It gives a cool comfort feeling
•It imparts dual shade to the
saree
•It is light and easy to wear
TUSSAR SILK

16. PACHRA
•Pachra is a handloom fabric from the state of Tripura.
•It is a long cotton cloth , having geometric motifs,intricate stripes
and embroidery in different colours. The embroidery takes 10-15
days and requires special skill.
•Pachra is a long piece of cloth worn as a lower garment , just below
the knee,worn by the women of the region.
•The pachra garment is usually worn with a risa , a short cloth that
covers the upper half of the body.

17. NAGA SHAWLS
•Naga shawls are the traditional shawls of the naga
tribes,also known as Chakshesang shawls. They are
primarily made of red and black colour.
•They have distinctive patterns with traditional design motifs
including simple clean lines, stripes, squares and bands.
•The shawl is also beautified with figures such as
elephants,tigers,hensand circles,representing human head.
•Naga shawls are made with loin looms.Nagaland shawls
are woven with a rayon weft and weaving is done mostly
with cotton.
Tangkhul naga tribe,in
naga shawl

18. BANARASI SAREE
•A Banarasi saree is made in Varanasi, an ancient city which
is also called Banaras.
•The motifs on the saree involve flowers , birds , geometric
patterns , metallic visual effects , pallus , jal(a net like pattern)
and motifs inspired from the mugals.
•Depending on the intricacy of its designs and patterns, a sari
can take from 15 days to a month and sometimes up to six
months to complete.
•There are four main varieties of Banarasi sari, which includes
pure silk (Katan), Organza (Kora) with Zari and silk, Georgette.
•Depending on the intricacy of its designs and patterns, a sari
can take from 15 days to a month and sometimes up to six
months to complete.

19. BHAGALPUR SILK
Bhagalpur silk or Tussar silk is a dying style of silk sarees and other clothes
from Bhagalpur, Bihar in India. Bhagalpur is also known as “silk city” of India.
Varieties like Katia, Giccha, Eri, Mulberry and various varieties of Bhagalpur
silk yarn facilitate in giving this fabric a pastoral look and provide an essence
of delicateness to its texture.
The motifs on bhagalpur silk include stripes , flowers , animal motifs which are
intricately weaved by the artisians .
Each bagalpur saree may take 15days to 2months depending on the amount
of intricate work needed on the saree.
Silk yarns Bhagalpur silk cloth after weaving

20. APATANI FABRIC
•Apatani fabric belongs to the state of Arunachal Pradesh which is weaved
by indegenious apatani tribes.
•The dictating colours of the Apatani are orange-yellow, red, blue and dark
blue. While orange colour dyes came from plant Tamin, the brownish-
yellow colour came from Sankhii. Yango was used to extract indigo blue.
•The patterns of the weaves on Apatani are distinctly angular and zig-zag
in designs. even the floral designs are angular in shape. Even floral
patterns take on a more geometric form in fabrics of these regions. Stripes
are common too.
Hangs of apatani yarns
Geometric patterns

21. •A Puanchei or a wrap around skirt is a beautiful
costume of girls, mostly worn during festivals of
Chapchar Kut. Chapchar Kut is one of the oldest
festivals of Mizoram and has a great cultural
significance.
Chapchar kut festival
•A puanchei is made of cotton and is handwoven and
takes upto 15-20days to complete the entire making
process.
•The puanchei contains geometric patterns and motfis
of musical instruments , plants which are also
geometric .
• The puanchei is traditionally woven in red , black and
white colours. Now they are available in various colours
with the same patterns.
• Puanchei has got the geographical
indication Tag in august,2019,under
the Geographical Indications of
Goods (Registration and Protection)
Act, 1999.
PUACHEI

22. •Jamdani is a fine muslin textile of Bengal, produced for
centuries in South Rupshi of Narayanganj district
in Bangladesh. Jamdani is called dhakai in bangladesh.
•In 2013, the traditional art of weaving jamdani was
declared a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of
Humanity.
•Jamdani is believed to be a fusion of the ancient cloth-making
techniques of Bengal with the muslins produced by Bengali
Muslims since the 14th century.
•Jamdani patterns are mostly of geometric, plant, and
floral designs and are said to have originated thousands
of years ago. Due to the exquisite painstaking
methodology required, only aristocrats and royal families
were able to afford such luxuries.
•In 2016, Bangladesh received geographical
indication(GI) status for Jamdani Sari.It was the first GI
status given to any Bangladeshi product.
JAMDANI