spreading and cutting of apparel products

1. Constraints of Marker Planning
SPREADING AND CUTTING OF
APPAREL PRODUCTS

2. • The constraints for which we cannot plan marker as desired are as-
1. The nature of the fabric,
2. The requirements of quality of cutting,
3. The requirements of production planning.
CONSTRAINTS OF
MARKER PLANNING

3. 1. Pattern alignment in relation to the grain line of the fabric: Pattern
pieces must carry the grain line when they are laid down on the marker
paper & the grain line should be parallel to the warp or wales. When laid
across the fabric then the grain line should be parallel to weft or course.
If marker planner does not pay proper attention to the grain line, the
finished garment will not hang or drape correctly when worn.
1. THE NATURE OF THE FABRIC

4. 2. Fabric symmetry or asymmetry: Many fabrics can be turned 1800 and retain the
same appearance which is termed symmetrical. They require no special attention
during marker making. Asymmetrical fabrics are those which show different
appearance when they are turned 1800. The marker should be planned in such a way
that it is in accordance with symmetry of the fabric. All pattern pieces of a garment
should be along the same direction when laid on an asymmetric fabric.
3. Characteristics of garment design: If a vertical stripe does not show a complete
mirror image repeat, the right and left sides of a garment (along the CFL) may not be
mirror images to each other. In this case the pattern pieces should be placed on checks
or stripes in such a way that the design matches when sewing up.

5. a) For majority of cutting situation when a knife blade is used, the
placement of the pattern pieces in the marker must give freedom for
knife movement. The amount of space depends on actual cutting method
employed.
b) The number of pattern in a marker must be counted just after finishing
the marker making process. If the number of pattern is improper &
fabric is cut, then the problem will arise during sewing.
c) Correct labeling of cut garment parts is essential to identify correctly the
components of whole garment. It is essential for the marker planner to
code each pattern pieces with its sizes as the marker is planned.
2. THE REQUIREMENTS OF QUALITY
OF CUTTING

6. When an order is placed for a quantity of garments, normally specifies a
quantity of each size & color. In order sheet the quantity of garments are
clearly mentioned according to the size & color. , the marker planner makes
two markers:
A. Long Marker,
B. Short Marker.
3. THE REQUIREMENTS OF
PRODUCTION PLANNING

7. For long marker, it can be made according to the size proportion and different
size. The process is very much efficient but takes more time & increase shade
variation.
For short marker and for particular order two markers can be made. This process
is less efficient but takes less time thus increase production. Small cutting table is
enough to serve this purpose. Each short marker is near about half of long
marker.