Arcuri 1 Arcuri 9 Malia Arcuri Marie Aja-Herrera FASH 247-02 May 10, 2020FASH Test 3 17th and 18th Century During the 17th century France, England, and Spain continued to rule Europe; The late 16th century was all about a mannerist style, however, that soon morphed into a Baroque style and quickly spread like wildfire throughout Europe. During this time, early puritan settlers had just made it to America and set up roots in New England; Places such as Holland had developed a prosperous middle class and England relied on the aristocracy as they had in the past. At the time textile machinery was gradually evolving and a new loom was introduced. In the 17th century fashion plates were being produced in Paris, these plates are similar to a modern-day fashion magazine (picture Vogue painted on a large plate with a caption) and have helped historians set the scene for what garments and everyday life may have looked like back then. When it comes to men’s costumes not much shifted from the early 16th century to the 17th century, however, they began wearing cravats which were scarf like pieces that separates the shirts and were worn in place of collars. Instead of doublets which were very popular among men in earlier centuries they began wearing surouts and justacorps; these jackets had straight sleeves with cuffs and buttons down the front and the main difference was the fact that they covered the breeches completely. Breeches during the 17th century became slimmer and less full then other years and stopped right at the knee. Men’s wigs also grew much larger and were often worn in the natural colors they came in. Some things that stayed the same were shoes, men still preferred shoes over boots. Women’s costume during the 17th century saw no major changes as well; The necklines became squarer and less reveling and corsets became visible. Corsets became visible at the front of the bodice and formed a V at the waist, since they were visible it meant they became heavily decorated and elaborate. A new dress cut also appeared at this time, the bodice and skirt were cut together in one length from shoulder to hem; this became known as Mantua and historians believe it to have evolved from middle-eastern robes. The final garment was very full both in the front and back and was always worn over a corset and overskirt. If women were to wear it to a formal event then the skirt was pleated and belted in the back, often skirts were pulled to the back and fastened to have a draped effect on the body. Fig. 1 & 2. Mantua style dress (Maker unknown. Mantua, 1708. Silk and metal. New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1991.6.1a, b. Purchase, Rogers Fund, Isabel Shults Fund and Irene Lewisohn Bequest, 1991. Source: The Met) We saw a change in the shape of women’s shoes during this time, they became more pointed, heels became higher, and the shoes became narrower. The design became more decorated and elaborate and leather became used more and more. Pantof.

1. Arcuri 1
Arcuri 9
Malia Arcuri
Marie Aja-Herrera
FASH 247-02
May 10, 2020FASH Test 3
17th and 18th Century
During the 17th century France, England, and Spain continued
to rule Europe; The late 16th century was all about a mannerist
style, however, that soon morphed into a Baroque style and
quickly spread like wildfire throughout Europe. During this
time, early puritan settlers had just made it to America and set
up roots in New England; Places such as Holland had developed
a prosperous middle class and England relied on the aristocracy
as they had in the past. At the time textile machinery was
gradually evolving and a new loom was introduced.
In the 17th century fashion plates were being produced in Paris,
these plates are similar to a modern-day fashion magazine
(picture Vogue painted on a large plate with a caption) and have
helped historians set the scene for what garments and everyday
life may have looked like back then. When it comes to men’s
costumes not much shifted from the early 16th century to the
17th century, however, they began wearing cravats which were
scarf like pieces that separates the shirts and were worn in place
of collars. Instead of doublets which were very popular among
men in earlier centuries they began wearing surouts and
justacorps; these jackets had straight sleeves with cuffs and
buttons down the front and the main difference was the fact that
they covered the breeches completely. Breeches during the 17th
century became slimmer and less full then other years and
stopped right at the knee. Men’s wigs also grew much larger and
were often worn in the natural colors they came in. Some things
that stayed the same were shoes, men still preferred shoes over

2. boots.
Women’s costume during the 17th century saw no major
changes as well; The necklines became squarer and less reveling
and corsets became visible. Corsets became visible at the front
of the bodice and formed a V at the waist, since they were
visible it meant they became heavily decorated and elaborate. A
new dress cut also appeared at this time, the bodice and skirt
were cut together in one length from shoulder to hem; this
became known as Mantua and historians believe it to have
evolved from middle-eastern robes. The final garment was very
full both in the front and back and was always worn over a
corset and overskirt. If women were to wear it to a formal event
then the skirt was pleated and belted in the back, often skirts
were pulled to the back and fastened to have a draped effect on
the body.
Fig. 1 & 2. Mantua style dress (Maker unknown. Mantua, 1708.
Silk and metal. New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art,
1991.6.1a, b. Purchase, Rogers Fund, Isabel Shults Fund and
Irene Lewisohn Bequest, 1991. Source: The Met)
We saw a change in the shape of women’s shoes during
this time, they became more pointed, heels became higher, and
the shoes became narrower. The design became more decorated
and elaborate and leather became used more and more. Pantofles
were a type of heeled slipper that were becoming increasingly
more popular during this time. When it comes to accessories,
women began wearing pomander balls as a belt attached to their
waist; these balls contained perfume that was placed in a
decorated box with holes shaped like apples which helped the
women to smell good wherever they went. During this time,
some women used “plumpers” which were balls of wax that
were used to give their face a rounder look.
Even in the 17th century social rank played a large part in
both men and women’s costume, it determined the length of a
women’s gown train and the elaborately decorated corsets and

3. shoes were another dead giveaway of social ranking. Trade
played a role during this time but one of the only instances we
see is women’s Mantua gowns which were though to originate
from the middle east. People in Spain continued to partake in
the styles of the 16th century while much of the world was
beginning to evolve.
When the 18th century begins we see a decline in Baroque
style and instead are welcomed with slender curves, less
massive styles, and an emphasis on balance. The new style is
known as Rococo the era lasted from roughly 1720 to 1789,
when the French aristocracy began to obsess over their wealth
and finery. The Rococo was, therefore, the last truly aristocratic
style of France. During the 18th century we also see major
advances in textile manufacturing; the flyting shuttle which
carried yarn across fabric was invented in 1733 and resulted in a
more rapid consumption of yarn.
Inventors began developing different and faster methods of
spinning yarn, which resulted in a number of new mechanized
spinning devices. By the 1800 people were using both steam and
water to power these machines. These new technological
advances were mostly used on cotton textiles since cotton was
much cheaper and more readily available then materials such as
silk. All of this resulted in cotton fabrics becoming more
accessible as well as cheaper for people to purchase, we see an
increase in cotton clothes and costume during this time as a
result. Europe was the center for elaborate and sophisticated
textile patterns and America just so happened to be their main
purchaser of these patterns and textiles. Europeans sold
expensive decorated fabrics to well off colonists and cheap
poor-quality fabrics to poorer colonists at the time. There were
also professional weavers who produced their own cloth and
textiles and they either did it in their own house or had a studio.
By the 18th century tailors were well established and
respected, they helped make men’s suits and coats as well as
women’s gowns. Members of the aristocracy as well as upper
class wealthy individuals had relied on tailors for many years

4. and enjoyed having their clothing specially made for themselves
by skilled tradesmen. However, for everyday ordinary people
they were not afforded this luxury and relied on women at home
to make the garments, many who had a limited skillset. These
homemade garments looked homemade and poor peopled had a
hard time obtaining thread or even purchasing materials because
the cost was still very high for them. The poor often purchased
used and second-hand garments for special sellers to try and
have a wardrobe of their own.
During the 18th century the American colonies imported
British goods and tried to stay up to date with European
fashions; some people were able to afford importing outfits
while others copied styles they had seen and created their own
costumes. Working class people dressed for convenience;
women often wore a chemise with a petticoat skirt and a short
gown often times paired with an apron and a cap to cover her
hair. At this time women did not universally wear drawers;
however, hoop skirts were continuing to grow larger and larger
and were regarded as an “outrageous” style. Between 1770 and
1780 the hood was supplanted by hip pads and bustles as
support garments. The earliest hoops were made of whalebone
but as the style grew many began using metal hoops as well as
wicker baskets to hold it together. The robe battante, robe
volante, innocente and sacque were all names for an unbelted
gown that was loose from the shoulders to the floor and had
pleats at the back and on the shoulders. A Pet-en-lair was a
short hip length version that was worn with a separate large
gathered skirt.
Fig. 3. Pet-en-lair with pleats (Esposito, Bianca. “The Purple
Pet En L'air: Part 1.” The Closet Historian, January 1, 1970.
http://theclosethistorian.blogspot.com/2015/07/the-purple-pet-
en-lair-part-1.html.)

5. In the 18th century we see a change in men’s collars, most
of the time they were made out of white linen or cotton; for the
first half of the century the collar gathered at the neck with
neck cloths and knotted under the chin. During the second half
of the century the neck bands lengthened and evolved into a
collar which was sewn onto the actual shirt. Banyans were loose
fitting garments originally known as nightgowns, dressing
gowns or Indian gowns and were worn throughout the century.
They came in two different styles; the first a type of kimono
which was very loose fitting, and the second being a form
fitting style similar to a coat with sleeves. Men preferred
fabrics such as cotton calicos, silk damask, velvet. Taffeta, and
satin. When men wore shoes outdoors spatterdashers also known
as spats or gaiters were worn; these were protective coverings
that went from the top of the shoe to right below the knee.
Boots also were evolving as well; men began wearing them for
hunting, riding, travelling, and serving in the military. Boots
became more sturdy and practical as well, jack boots were made
of rigid stiff leather and were knee length to protect the legs.
Fig.41. Men’s Spatterdashers - Spanish ceremonial from about
1780, British black felt from the Regency era, and Prussian
from 1830, perhaps canvas. (Fleming, R.S. “Available for
Purchase from These Fine Vendors:” Kate Tattersall
Adventures, June 23, 2017.
http://www.katetattersall.com/spatterdashes-gaiters-spats-for-
protection-warmth-and-disguise/.)
Women’s necklines were still changing and in the 1760’s
the necklines were much lower and oval then years prior when
they were high cut and square. In the late 1770’s some skirts
shortened and women reveled their leg above the ankles which
was groundbreaking at the time. The Chemise a la reine was a
white muslin gown that had a waistline as well as a fully
gathered skirt. These garments were imported from India and

6. made out of muslin. In the 1780’s women’s hairstyles were not
as high as the 1770’s (when the maximum height was reached
and women’s hair was a towering structure) the 1770’s was all
about fullness with curled hair and locks hanging down the
back. Women’s cloaks were cut to be full and fit over their very
wide skirts, although they varied in length some were hooded
and many were made out of velvet or wool; for warmer weather
women had silk or other lightweight fabric used.
In summary, social life and class structure stand out during
the 18th century when it comes to costume and dressing. The
upper class showed off their wealth through expensive fabrics
and embellishments while the poor lived in simple and practical
garments and struggled to buy new clothes often opting to buy
used second hand pieces. The lavishness of the 18th century
illustrates conspicuous consumption. During this time, we see
influences from other cultures as well as international trade;
both evident in men robes, men’s dressing gowns, and women’s
dresses as well. We see more use of Indian muslin fabric and
oriental design. During this time, there were lots of
technological advances made especially in weaving and textile
machinery. This helped to make fabric and yearn cheaper and
more readily available for everyday folks. The French
revolution marked the end of all of this in 1795 and the
revolution brought an abrupt and violent end to the regime.
Works Cited
Tortora, Phyllis G., and Keith Eubank. Survey of Historic
Costume: a History of Western Dress. New York, NY: Fairchild
Publications, 1998.
Cunnington, C. W. and P. Cunnington. 1972. Handbook of
English Costume in the Seventeenth Century. London: Faber
and Faber.
Swann, J. 1982. Shoes. London: Batsford, pp.7,14
“Mantua.” Fashion History Timeline, September 29, 2017.
https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/mantua/.
Esposito, Bianca. “The Purple Pet En L'air: Part 1.” The Closet
Historian, January 1, 1970.

7. http://theclosethistorian.blogspot.com/2015/07/the-purple-pet-
en-lair-part-1.html.
Fleming, R.S. “Available for Purchase from These Fine
Vendors:” Kate Tattersall Adventures, June 23, 2017.
http://www.katetattersall.com/spatterdashes-gaiters-spats-for-
protection-warmth-and-disguise/.