fashion 18th century

History assignment
Fashion in Victorian era and
Regency period

Victorian era - Fashion
The main feature of the Victorian epoch
was the mix of the best of other styles.
Victorian Era was a lively
style of ornamentation.
Clothes on the Victorian Era were very
elaborated and restrictive on the bodies
of those who wore them. The Victorian
Era was a time period between 1830 to
the end of the XXth century.

The rise of the economy allowed to
make more elaborated clothes.
Cloth making was made easier and
cheaper during the industrial boom
of this time.
The women’s dress was very
elaborated. Their dresses affected
the way they walked, sat or
moved her arms. Women wore a
variety of colors for their stockings
and dresses. Dresses and stockings
undergarments were cut in a style
to show off the figure in a modest
way. The undergarments had
whale-bones or flexible steel to
make it more comfortable

Firstly the drawers Secondly the slip
Thirdly they had to put on
the corset

Fifthly the camisole
Sixthly they had to put on the
"bustle" or polisón, this piece
was essential to give form to
the dress
Fourtly the petticoat

Followed to the
underskirt
Finally the skirt and
the jacket
The dress was
worn in two
pieces and
connected
with hooks
and ties

The dress was worn in two pieces and
connected with hooks and ties. The
style of sleeves changed many times
throughout the Victorian Era. The
neckline was worn in a high V-neck.

Fashion – Men
During the 1850s, men started
wearing shirts with high upstanding
or turnover collars and four-in-hand
neckties tied in a bow, or tied in a
knot with the pointed ends sticking
out like "wings". The upper-class
continued to wear top
hats, and bowler hats were worn by
the working class

During the 1870s, three-piece suits grew in
popularity along with patterned fabrics for
shirts. Neckties were the four-in-hand
and, later, the Ascot ties. A narrow ribbon tie
was an alternative for tropical
climates, especially in the Americas. Both frock
coats and sack coats became shorter. Flat straw
boaters were worn when boating.
During the 1880s, formal evening dress
remained a dark tail coat and trousers with a
dark waistcoat, a white bow tie, and a shirt with
a winged collar. In mid-decade, the dinner jacket
or tuxedo, was used in more relaxed formal
occasions. The Norfolk jacket and tweed or
woolen breeches were used for rugged outdoor
pursuits such as shooting. Knee-length
topcoats, often with contrasting velvet or fur
collars, and calf-length overcoats were worn in
winter. Men's shoes had higher heels and a
narrow toe.

Starting from the 1890s, the blazer was
introduced, and was worn for
sports, sailing, and other casual activities.
Throughout much of the Victorian Era most men
wore fairly short hair. This was often
accompanied by various forms of facial hair
including moustaches, side-burns, and full
beards. A clean-shaven face did not come back
into fashion until the end of the 1880s and early
1890s.
Distinguishing what men really wore from what
was marketed to them in periodicals and
advertisements is problematic, as reliable
records do not exist.

Victorian hairstyles-men
Everyday Victorian fashion was very
formal, and men of every rank and class
were expected to dress and groom
themselves as gentlemen.
While styles for hair atop a gentleman's
head were similar, conservative and
often hidden beneath a hat, Victorian
men got creative by styling their
sideburns, moustaches, and beards.

Short Hair
Victorian Men's hairstyles were
conservative.
Hair was kept short and styled with wax
or oil and parted either at the
side, slightly off-center, or brushed
straight back.
Longer, unkempt hairstyles were
generally looked down upon.

Sideburns
Sideburns were allowed to grow long
and further down the face.
Popular sideburn style: Bushy "mutton-
chops”
Another was "Piccadilly weepers"
(Dundrearys): were side-whiskers
grown long and combed outwards.
Sideburns were worn with or without a
moustache.

Moustaches
Moustache styles ranged widely.
The "walrus" moustache: was grown
long and bushy, covering most of the
lower part of the man's face.
The "Kaiser” moustache: was waxed
and styled to turn up at the ends.
Most moustaches were styled to
compliment the gentleman's beard or
sideburns.

Beards
beards also varied
greatly in style. The
"goatee“ beard: a
thin and pointed
beard extending
down from a moustache and just
covering the chin, was popular.
The "fringe beard“: another popular
style in the 1850s and 1860s, extended
down from the hairline and under the
chin, and was often worn without a
moustache.
Some men grew longer, fuller beards
which could be styled with wax. Others
trimmed them short.

Victorian Women Hairstyles
Hairstyles were very complicated.
Hair was thick, long, and luxuriant in
many different styles.
Hair was parted down the middle,
curled or braided, then tied or pinned
back.
Only in informal occasions we can see
the Victorian lady leaving her hair fall
loose around her shoulders.
Later in the XIXth century, Victorian
hairstyles became more elaborated.
Bangs made their debut around 1880.
Women began to use hot irons to wave
their hair or add ringlets to it.

Braid
Early in the era, the simple braided
hairstyle was seen on most women with
long straight hair.
Hair was pulled into a ponytail and
divided into three or five sections. Each
section is braided, individually, then
pinned under the ponytail. This 'do was
often accented with a decorative comb.

Sugar Curls
Also known as Barley Curls: are long
curls that drop down the back of the
neck and shoulders.
Early in the 18th century, it was a social
taboo for women to wear their hair
down. So this style was relegated mostly
to children.
However, later in the century, young
women wore the hair at the back of
their head long and loose down the
back. The hair at the top of their head
was swept up or around the sides of the
head and kept up.

Pompadours
By the 1880s, women donned
pompadours. In this hairstyle, the hair
was swept up high above the forehead.
At this time, hair pieces were
introduced to create hair that appeared
full and thick.
The poof of hair, known as a
pompadour, was then decorated with
jewels and feathers.

Titus
The Titus hairstyle called for hair to be
cut short around the face.
The hair in back was also cut to the
shoulder in a layered style.
Hair surrounding the face was then
curled and styled with flowers or
decorative combs.

Crimping using Hot Irons
Hot irons were introduced as hair styling
devices during the Victorian era, which
resulted in the popularity of crimped
updos.
"Marcel Wave“- involved using a hot
iron on the hair to create a loose wavy
updo.

MAKEUP
In the Victorian era, a healthy and
natural complexion was valued in
cosmetics and beauty products.
The Victorian women never wore make
up. They believed in letting their skin
glow in all its beauty with only a tad bit
of blush on their cheeks to finish the
look.

That make-up was heavily worn in
Europe until later in the 20th century.
The early Victorian period was pretty
much the last period in history.

By the nineteenth century, zinc oxide became
widely used as a facial powder.
the Victorian era, cosmetics were considered
the devil's making, associated with prostitutes
and women of questionable morals.
They used lead and antimony sulfide as eye
shadow. Mercuric sulfide, to make their lips red,

Victorian Era Jewellery
(1837 to 1901)
?

Victorian era hats
Hats were primarily used as a protection from
the sun, to avoid an injury... However, in the
later years, hats became a symbol of style
statement and authority. The kind of hats worn
by women and men were different. Hats formed
an essential part of a woman’s appearance and
as a result, they always wear a hat when they
went out. For men, the top hat or the tall silk
hat was generally worn for formal days and
evening wear.

Men's hats
Top hat
The black silk top hat was made from
cheesecloth, linen, flannel and shellac. Using
various types of flat-irons, the shellac . The hat
was finished with a 2½ to 3 cm wide cloth
hatband, which was later replaced by one of
ribbed silk. Later in the Victorian era, from
1837 to 1901, the height was reduced to
between 16 and 17 cm. Around 1890, the top
hat also received a larger crown, so appearing
more tailored or 'nipped in'. From around
1920, top hats were around 12 to 13 cm in
height. That still applies today.

The proper Victorian gentleman was not
seen outdoors without a hat. The top hat
was required for formal day and evening
wear, but by the 1870s, a gentleman could
choose from a variety of styles of headgear
for informal wear. There was the
bowler, the homburg, the derby – and for
summer there were a variety of designs in
straw hats. Fashionable styles were
featured in an assortment of shades and
shape in both soft and stiff hats, with
selections in color width of brim, height of
crown and, of course.

Women’s hats
Hats were also used by young
women and girls. Most of the hats
used were trimmed with
ribbons, Feathers, flowers and at
times, veils.The hats were layered
on a wirebase covered with str
awbraids or twisted fabric and was
made from velvet, satin, cotton and
tulle fabrics. Birds were used as
decorating piece on the hats. The
hats were ornamented by bird parts
like their wings, breasts or at times
the whole bird was used.

Morning Cap
Victorian women of ten wore an
informal cap indoors. This headdress
was referred to as a
morning, breakfast, or day cap.These
caps were either simply made or
lavished with frills and ribbons.

Victorian Bonnets
Bonnets were popular hats for women of both
upper and lower classes throughout the
Victorian era. Bonnets are essentially hats with
the front portion of the brim removed and
typically tied underneath the chin. Though all
bonnets fit this definition, their style and
function varied greatly. Bonnets could be plain
and practical or grand and extravagant, featuring
multi-colored feathers and even decorative
birds. As elaborate hair styles became
increasingly prevalent towards the later
Victorian age, bonnets began covering less and
less of the face and eventually ended up being
perched atop the wearer's hair.

Victorian Hats - 1878
Silk ribbons and feathers
trim this Hat from 1878.
Victorian Hat from
1878 is
ornamented with a
stuffed
bird.
Hat from 1878 has
wide ribbon tie and
large feather.

Victorian era fans
In the 18th century, the hand fan was both
utilitarian, as well as decorative. There were
all kinds of fans, from the extremely plain
paddle fans made from paper or wood, to
the most ornate made of the finest silk and
adorned with fine embroidery or painting.

Features of 18th Century Fans
While fans of the 19th century and later typically
form a half circle when opened, most 18th
century fans only form a 1/3rd or 3/8th circle.
The sticks are about 28-30 cm long, rarely
shorter (25-26 cm) or longer (up to 32 cm). The
lower end of the closed fan, seen from above, is
usually rounded.
Shape and Size

The sticks were made of wood, tortoiseshell or
ivory. In the early to mid 18th century, the lower
part of the sticks formed a solid surface that
could be pierced, carved. In the late 18th
century, there was "daylight" between the
sticks. The sides of the sticks were usually
carved, especially near the lower end.
Sometimes the carvings are made in such a way
that patterns or figures become visble only
when the fan is closed.
Sticks

There are folding fans and brisé fans. Brisé fans
consist only of sticks that get continuously wider
from the rivet to the top, forming one solid
surface. They are held together by a fabric band.
The sticks of folding fans become narrow at one
point and a leaf is stuck to one or both sides of
the narrow part.
Leaf

Brise fans were relatively common until about
1730, then practically nonexistent until
1800/1810. The early brise fans have smooth
sticks without any carving or piercing, painted
across the whole surface. There usually is a
break between the lower and upper part that
seems to emulate the border between stick and
leaf as seen on folding fans.
The leaves of folding fans were made of
paper, parchment or "swan skin", which actually
as the very fine leather of lambs or kids.

The Victorian Era is almost mythically
known for proper etiquette in behavior
and dress. Women’s “lower limbs” were
kept completely covered by long skirts
and crinolines, and ankle boots came
into fashion as a way to avoid glimpses
of these off-limits appendages. The tops
of boots might be decorated with bows
or tassels to be tantalizingly glimpsed
under a demurely flouncing skirt.
Women’s shoes and Boots

narrow-toed boots in the smallest size
possible, to give the impression of
extremely tiny, dainty, feminine feet.
Small heels were added to boots in the
late 1840s and 1850s, and to slippers
between 1860

Men's Shoes & Boots
In Victorian times, it was said you could
judge the caliber of a man by the boots
he wore. Men's footwear at the time
was very formal and conservative, and
the short ankle boot took prominence
in fashion; half-boots (calf-length) or
knee-length boots were worn mainly for
riding, and generally not for strolling the
streets of town

The 1850s, elastic-sided boots were joined in
popularity by those with lacing on their inner
sides.
Wellington boots (worn for riding or mucking
about in the country) were named after the
Duke of Wellington. He designed them to be
worn in cavalry warfare (the top of the boot
originally came over the knee to mitigate knee-
wounds in soldiers), but they became quite
popular with the sports-and-fashion-minded
male set.
Lastly, lace-up ankle-length boots, known as
Paddock boots, were worn by fashion-
conscious gentlemen who also wished to be
known for their equestrian skills. Whether
on horseback or in the streets (but never at
a formal event!), these were the highbrow
boots of choice.

REGENCY
PERIOD
FASHION
Fashion in the period 1795–
1820 in European and European-influenced
countries saw the final triumph of undress or
informal styles.
In the aftermath of the French Revolution, no
one wanted to appear to be a member of the
French aristocracy, and people began using
clothing more as a form of individual expression
of the true-self than as a pure indication of social
status.

WOMEN
For women's dress, the day to day outfit of the
skirt and jacket style were practical and tactful
Women's fashions followed classical ideals, and
tightly lacedcorsets were temporarily
abandoned in favor of a high-waisted, natural
figure

MEN
In Britain, Beau Brummell introduced
trousers, perfect tailoring, and
unadorned, immaculate linen as the ideals of
men's fashion.
In Germany, republican city-states relinquished
their traditional, modest, and practical
garments and started to embrace the French
and English fashion trends of short-sleeved
chemise dresses and Spencer jackets. American
fashion trends emulated French dress, but in a
toned down manner with shawls and tunics to
cope with the sheerness of the chemise

by the 1780s, the new, “natural” style allowed
one’s inner self to transcend their clothes.
accessories and the detail on the clothing were
more important than the shape of the dress.
clothing became much lighter and more able to
be changed and washed frequently. Even upper
class women began wearing cropped dresses as
opposed to dresses with long trains or hoops
that restricted them from leaving their homes.
In a sense, women were influenced by male
fashion, such as tailored waistcoats and jackets
to emphasize women’s mobility.
This new movement toward
practicality of dress showed
that dress no longer was a
way to categorize between
classes or genders; dress was
meant to suit ones personal
daily routine.

Hats worn during the
Regency period.

Women during the Regency period wore
headdresses outdoors as a matter of course.
When a woman married, or if she was a spinster
in her late twenties, she would also take to
wearing a cap indoors
They denoted class and economic status, as well
as fashion sense and one’s marital state. Hats
were also worn as a sign of respect, inside a
church, for instance, and this custom remained
widely popular until well into the 20th-century.
They could be ruffled, embroidered, or
plain, depending on who wore
them and their status.
A housekeeper, for
example, would wear a
more elaborate cap than
a scullery maid, whose
mob cap was simple by
comparison.

In addition to professional milliners and
modistes, there was quite a large cottage
industry for making caps, hats, and turbans
from home, which provided a meager salary for
women who needed the income. The materials
used in making headdresses were as varied as
their styles: straw (chip or
strip), beaver, velvet, silk, crape, satin, muslin or
cloth (Byrde, p 6). Trims included ribbons, the
above mentioned artificial fruits and
flowers, veils, net, lace, or feathers, and even
beads, pins, and brooches.

Bonnet worn by a women in the regency period.

Hats worn by men-
Regency period
The carefully tailored, plain-cloth garments that
made up the fashionable Regency man's
wardrobe rose up out of the country wear of the
English gentleman, and the hat of the period was
no exception.
Here is a casual hat worn for hunting, illustrated
around 1800. Practical low-crowned, wide-
brimmed hats came into fashion in the 1780s
and gradually became more tailored and curly-
brimmed into the earliest years of the new
century.

Another country hat, this one with a flatter brim
as well as a flatter, sharper crown. These
large, low-setting hats suited the long hair that
was still holding over from the 18th century. As
hair shortened and clung closer to the head, so
too did hats.
By 1810, everyday hats had become somewhat
taller and fairly straight-sided, and the brims had
diminished. This vertical line coordinated with
the long, columnar look then dominating fashion
and most obvious in women's dress, with skirts
and bodices at their narrowest.

As the teens
progressed, the
sides of the hat
passed vertical and
began slanting
outwards. The
crown also gained
height as the brim
lost width. This
brim's excessive
curliness also
emphasizes a busy
vertical line.
As the Regency
drew to a
close, hats had
reached an apex of
height and curliness

fashion 18th century

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fashion 18th century