This document provides information on pattern making and garment production. It includes:
1. Definitions of basic textile terms like yarn, warp, weft, woven and knitted fabrics.
2. The typical sequence of operations in garment production from fabric inspection to packing.
3. Descriptions of different fabric types, parts of fabrics, and styles of collars, sleeves, pockets and cuffs.
4. Explanations of two common pattern making methods - drafting and draping. It provides steps to draft a basic bodice pattern for a child.
5. Lists tools used for pattern making and components included on paper patterns.
This document discusses different types of knit fabrics. There are four main types of fabric: knitted, woven, non-woven, and braided. Knitted fabrics are made by interlocking loops of yarn and can be made with one or more yarns. Common knitted fabrics include jersey, rib, interlock, and purl fabrics. Double jersey fabric uses two needles and looks the same on both sides, while single jersey uses one needle and has different appearances on each side. Weft knits are made horizontally with one yarn, while warp knits use multiple yarns looped vertically. Common weft knits include jersey, rib, double knit and pique
Rib fabrics are double-knit fabrics with alternating vertical rows that give it elasticity, especially in the width. They are knitted using two sets of needles operating at right angles to create stitches that intermesh on the face and back. Rib knits have a very high degree of elasticity and are used for garments, bands, and trims. Common rib knit constructions include 1x1 and 1x2 ribs, which are elastic patterns used for sleeves and neckbands. Rib stripes can be created through color arrangements in a 1x1 rib to add fashion features. Rib fabrics are used for sweaters, caps, scarves, socks, and winter gloves due to their elasticity and shape retention.
The document discusses different types of fabrics including knitted, woven, non-woven, and braided fabrics. Knitted fabrics are made by interlooping one or more yarns and can be made using various stitches like knit, purl, increase, and decrease. Woven fabrics interlace two sets of warp and weft yarns. Non-woven fabrics use mechanical or chemical bonding of fibers without weaving or knitting. Braided fabrics require at least three groups of yarns from one set. The document also provides examples of basic knitted fabrics like plain, ribbing, and interlock fabrics.
This document provides information on various types of fabrics, including their properties and uses. It discusses woven fabrics like voile, poplin, muslin, georgette, gauze, satin, velvet, flannel, drill, terry, denim, corduroy, and cambric. It also covers knitted fabrics like single jersey, double jersey, pique, slub jersey, fleece, French terry, grindle jersey and yarn dyed stripe jersey. For each fabric, it lists key properties such as weight, texture, absorbency, and durability, as well as common applications. The document serves as a guide to different fabric types.
Single Jersey Slub is a type of knit fabric made from cotton or cotton blends. It is warm, flexible, stretchy, and insulating, making it popular for layers worn close to the body like t-shirts. Single Jersey Slub has different faces on each side, curls at the edges, clearly visible wales on one side, is twice as extensible widthwise than lengthwise, and can unravel from either side. It provides comfort, shape retention, drape, and crease recovery. Single Jersey Slub is often used for t-shirts and as a substrate for leather or shoe uppers due to its stretch and recovery properties.
Fleece fabric is one of the oldest knitted fabric designs that remains popular today. It has properties of being warm, cozy, easy to care for, washable, and can be produced at low cost using circular knitting machines. There are several types of fleece fabrics defined by the number of yarn threads used (one, two, or three thread) or the material (cotton, polyester, blends). Fleece fabrics are characterized by loops of yarn on the surface that provide insulation properties. They have many uses including outerwear, linings, and blankets.
This document discusses different types of woven pile fabrics. It begins by defining pile fabrics as those with tufts of cut warp or weft threads projecting at right angles from the foundation to form a pile or loop surface. Pile fabrics are classified as either weft pile (such as velveteen and corduroy) or warp pile (such as velvet). Weft pile fabrics incorporate two types of weft threads and one type of warp thread. They contain a greater proportion of weft than warp threads and require high weft density which is achieved through low warp sett and high warp tension. Common weft pile fabrics include corduroy, velveteen, and Manchester fabric. The document also discusses velveteen fabrics
Weave is the method or process of interlacing two yarn or similar material so that they cross each other at right angle to produce woven fabric . Traditionally, denim fabric are 3/1 warp-faced twill fabric made from a yarn dyed warp and an undyed weft yarn and the warp yarn is indigo dyed ,however this twill weave fabric is also available in textures, such as cross hatch and jacquard etc. The textures selected during the design development process for upcoming seasons are chosen with the wash treatment in mind, such as enzyme, acid etc and look & performance requirement of finish product.
This document discusses different types of knit fabrics. There are four main types of fabric: knitted, woven, non-woven, and braided. Knitted fabrics are made by interlocking loops of yarn and can be made with one or more yarns. Common knitted fabrics include jersey, rib, interlock, and purl fabrics. Double jersey fabric uses two needles and looks the same on both sides, while single jersey uses one needle and has different appearances on each side. Weft knits are made horizontally with one yarn, while warp knits use multiple yarns looped vertically. Common weft knits include jersey, rib, double knit and pique
Rib fabrics are double-knit fabrics with alternating vertical rows that give it elasticity, especially in the width. They are knitted using two sets of needles operating at right angles to create stitches that intermesh on the face and back. Rib knits have a very high degree of elasticity and are used for garments, bands, and trims. Common rib knit constructions include 1x1 and 1x2 ribs, which are elastic patterns used for sleeves and neckbands. Rib stripes can be created through color arrangements in a 1x1 rib to add fashion features. Rib fabrics are used for sweaters, caps, scarves, socks, and winter gloves due to their elasticity and shape retention.
The document discusses different types of fabrics including knitted, woven, non-woven, and braided fabrics. Knitted fabrics are made by interlooping one or more yarns and can be made using various stitches like knit, purl, increase, and decrease. Woven fabrics interlace two sets of warp and weft yarns. Non-woven fabrics use mechanical or chemical bonding of fibers without weaving or knitting. Braided fabrics require at least three groups of yarns from one set. The document also provides examples of basic knitted fabrics like plain, ribbing, and interlock fabrics.
This document provides information on various types of fabrics, including their properties and uses. It discusses woven fabrics like voile, poplin, muslin, georgette, gauze, satin, velvet, flannel, drill, terry, denim, corduroy, and cambric. It also covers knitted fabrics like single jersey, double jersey, pique, slub jersey, fleece, French terry, grindle jersey and yarn dyed stripe jersey. For each fabric, it lists key properties such as weight, texture, absorbency, and durability, as well as common applications. The document serves as a guide to different fabric types.
Single Jersey Slub is a type of knit fabric made from cotton or cotton blends. It is warm, flexible, stretchy, and insulating, making it popular for layers worn close to the body like t-shirts. Single Jersey Slub has different faces on each side, curls at the edges, clearly visible wales on one side, is twice as extensible widthwise than lengthwise, and can unravel from either side. It provides comfort, shape retention, drape, and crease recovery. Single Jersey Slub is often used for t-shirts and as a substrate for leather or shoe uppers due to its stretch and recovery properties.
Fleece fabric is one of the oldest knitted fabric designs that remains popular today. It has properties of being warm, cozy, easy to care for, washable, and can be produced at low cost using circular knitting machines. There are several types of fleece fabrics defined by the number of yarn threads used (one, two, or three thread) or the material (cotton, polyester, blends). Fleece fabrics are characterized by loops of yarn on the surface that provide insulation properties. They have many uses including outerwear, linings, and blankets.
This document discusses different types of woven pile fabrics. It begins by defining pile fabrics as those with tufts of cut warp or weft threads projecting at right angles from the foundation to form a pile or loop surface. Pile fabrics are classified as either weft pile (such as velveteen and corduroy) or warp pile (such as velvet). Weft pile fabrics incorporate two types of weft threads and one type of warp thread. They contain a greater proportion of weft than warp threads and require high weft density which is achieved through low warp sett and high warp tension. Common weft pile fabrics include corduroy, velveteen, and Manchester fabric. The document also discusses velveteen fabrics
Weave is the method or process of interlacing two yarn or similar material so that they cross each other at right angle to produce woven fabric . Traditionally, denim fabric are 3/1 warp-faced twill fabric made from a yarn dyed warp and an undyed weft yarn and the warp yarn is indigo dyed ,however this twill weave fabric is also available in textures, such as cross hatch and jacquard etc. The textures selected during the design development process for upcoming seasons are chosen with the wash treatment in mind, such as enzyme, acid etc and look & performance requirement of finish product.
Smocking is an embroidery technique used to gather fabric so it can stretch. It was commonly used in garments before elastic for cuffs, bodices, and necklines where buttons were undesirable. Developed in England, smocking was practical for form-fitting yet flexible garments, earning its name from farmer's work shirts. Various stitches like cable, stem, and honeycomb are used in smocking patterns.
fullness in garment ( tuck dart pleats etc)Ragu Nathan
Sewing. to make full, as by gathering or pleating. to bring (the cloth) on one side of a seam to a little greater fullness than on the other by gathering or tucking very slightly.
This document defines different types of seams and how they are constructed. It discusses plain seams, top stitched seams, flat fell seams, French seams, mantua maker's seams, and piped seams. For each seam type, it provides details on how to construct the seam, including placing fabric pieces together, stitching, pressing, and finishing raw edges. The document is intended to explain the working of common seam types and provide instructions for making different seams.
Knitted fabrics are made from interlocking loops of yarn. There are two main types of knitting: weft knits and warp knits. In weft knitting, loops are linked across the width, while in warp knitting loops are linked vertically. Weft knits can be made by hand or machine and have stretch and retain heat, but can lose shape. Warp knits are made quickly by machine, are elastic but hold their shape, and lie flat when cut.
Woven fabrics are produced by interlacing warp (0°) fibers and weft (90°) fibers in a regular pattern or weave style. The document describes several common weave styles - plain, twill, satin, basket, leno, and mock leno - and explains how each affects properties like drape, surface smoothness, stability, crimp level, and mechanical properties. It also provides brief descriptions of various woven fabric types like buckram, cambric, casement, cheese cloth, chiffon, chintz, corduroy, crepe, denim, drill, flannel, gabardine, georgette, and more.
There are several types of pleats that are used in clothing and upholstery to gather fabric. The main types are accordion pleats, knife pleats, box pleats, and inverted pleats. Pleats add extra room and allow fabric to move, gathering a wide piece of fabric into a narrower space. Their main purpose is functionality - pleats allow for more freedom of movement and prevent tightening and creasing, especially in areas like the hips when sitting. Pleats can be found on many different garments and accessories.
1) Plain single jersey is a basic weft knitted fabric where the front side has face loops forming a "V" shape and the back side has back loops forming semi-circles.
2) It is produced using a plain circular latch needle machine with one set of needles knitting at each feed to form a single loop per course.
3) Single jersey fabric is lightweight, comfortable, and inexpensive to produce, making it widely used for apparel and other applications. Variations can be made by modifying the knitting order.
This document provides information about knitting and common knitting defects. It begins by defining knitting as a technique that uses intermeshed loops of yarn to form fabric. It then compares characteristics of woven and knitted fabrics. The document classifies types of knitted fabrics and defines important knitting terms. Finally, it describes and provides causes and remedies for several common knitting defects such as drop stitches, barriness, imperfections, and contamination.
This document discusses various types of knitted fabrics. It begins by explaining that knitting involves interlocking loops of yarn or thread to form cloth or crafts. There are two main types of knitting: weft knitting uses horizontal yarn fed into needles, while warp knitting uses vertical yarn loops. Specific weft knits discussed include single jersey, purl, rib, and interlock stitches. Warp knits highlighted are tricot, raschel, and milanese. The document also briefly touches on technical textiles, seamless technology, float plating technology, 3D fabrics, and knitting machines used.
Knit and woven fabrics are the two most common textiles used in clothing. Knits are made from interconnected loops while wovens use perpendicular threads over and under each other. The construction methods result in knits having properties like stretch and wrinkle resistance, while wovens are more structured with little stretch. Knits and wovens serve different purposes in clothing based on their properties.
This document discusses different types of woven pile fabrics. It begins by defining pile fabrics as those with tufts of cut warp or weft threads projecting at right angles from the foundation to form a brush-like surface. Pile fabrics are classified as either weft pile fabrics, like velveteen and corduroy, or warp pile fabrics, like velvet. The document then focuses on weft pile fabrics, describing their construction including the use of two types of weft threads and a low warp sett to allow for a high density of weft picks. Common weft pile fabrics are discussed along with details of velveteen fabrics and their classifications. The cutting of the pile floats is also briefly described.
This document is an assignment on pleats by Shubhi Goel for their 3rd semester B.Sc. in Fashion Designing & Technology. It defines pleats as folds made by doubling fabric back on itself and securing it in place, which are used to gather fabric. Pleats can be pressed or unpressed. The document discusses the history of pleating in ancient Egypt and its uses. It also covers the origins of pleated skirts in the 16th century. Different types of pleats and their impacts based on grain are described, including box, inverted, and knife pleats.
The document discusses various methods of fabric construction including weaving, looms, basic weaves like plain, twill and satin. It describes jacquard looms and how they allow for complex patterns through the use of punch cards. Specific fabric types are explained such as damask, brocade, velvet and casement cloth. Nonwoven fabrics like ultrasuede, felt and vinyl are also covered. The document provides information on determining warp and weft, fabric grain, pricing and how fabrics are sold to aid in selecting and working with various woven and nonwoven materials.
Pile fabrics: Manufacturing methods include woven pile fabric formation & others methods such as knit pile fabric, tufted pile fabrics etc. A "Terry" or a "Terry Towel" as is generally known is a woven pile fabric formed by slack tension weave process. of weaving.
This document discusses different types of fabric construction including yarn twist, texturing, weaving methods like plain, twill, and satin weaves, knitting, and bonded fabrics like felt. It covers characteristics of fabrics like construction method, texture, hand, weight, and lists some common fabric testing methods.
This document provides information on different types of velvet fabrics, including cotton velvet, silk velvet, velveteen, velour, corduroy, crinkle velvet, panne velvet, embossed velvet, cut velvet, and plush velvet. For each type of velvet, it describes the material composition, pile length, weight, and recommended uses. It also provides guidance on cutting, seaming, threading, pressing and other technical details for working with each velvet fabric.
Woven fabrics are made by interlacing two sets of yarn called the warp and weft yarns in a weaving process. Knit fabrics are made from a single set of yarn using a knitting process. Woven fabrics have more dimensional stability while knit fabrics have greater elasticity and recovery properties. Common examples of woven fabrics include shirts and denim while common knit fabrics include t-shirts and leggings.
This document discusses the different methods of fabric construction: weaving, knitting, bonding, and felting. Weaving involves interlacing warp and weft threads at right angles and can be plain, twill, or satin weaves. Knitting is the interlocking of yarn loops and can be weft or warp knitting. Bonding uses heat or adhesives to join synthetic fiber webs. Felting mats wool fibers using moisture, heat, and pressure. The construction method determines the fabric's appearance, feel, and performance properties.
Este documento describe el procedimiento para trazar el patrón de un saco en 16 pasos. Primero se traza la espalda con 16 puntos, incluyendo medidas de pecho, talle y largo. Luego se traza la parte delantera transportando 3 puntos clave y añadiendo 13 puntos más para definir detalles como la solapa y los botones. El trazo completo incluye medidas, puntos y líneas de construcción para ambas partes del saco.
Este documento presenta el programa de la asignatura Patronaje Industrial Masculino. Incluye tres unidades sobre el trazado y escalado de camisas, pantalones y chaquetas masculinas. El objetivo es que los estudiantes desarrollen habilidades para trazar y escalar estas prendas siguiendo patrones industriales.
Smocking is an embroidery technique used to gather fabric so it can stretch. It was commonly used in garments before elastic for cuffs, bodices, and necklines where buttons were undesirable. Developed in England, smocking was practical for form-fitting yet flexible garments, earning its name from farmer's work shirts. Various stitches like cable, stem, and honeycomb are used in smocking patterns.
fullness in garment ( tuck dart pleats etc)Ragu Nathan
Sewing. to make full, as by gathering or pleating. to bring (the cloth) on one side of a seam to a little greater fullness than on the other by gathering or tucking very slightly.
This document defines different types of seams and how they are constructed. It discusses plain seams, top stitched seams, flat fell seams, French seams, mantua maker's seams, and piped seams. For each seam type, it provides details on how to construct the seam, including placing fabric pieces together, stitching, pressing, and finishing raw edges. The document is intended to explain the working of common seam types and provide instructions for making different seams.
Knitted fabrics are made from interlocking loops of yarn. There are two main types of knitting: weft knits and warp knits. In weft knitting, loops are linked across the width, while in warp knitting loops are linked vertically. Weft knits can be made by hand or machine and have stretch and retain heat, but can lose shape. Warp knits are made quickly by machine, are elastic but hold their shape, and lie flat when cut.
Woven fabrics are produced by interlacing warp (0°) fibers and weft (90°) fibers in a regular pattern or weave style. The document describes several common weave styles - plain, twill, satin, basket, leno, and mock leno - and explains how each affects properties like drape, surface smoothness, stability, crimp level, and mechanical properties. It also provides brief descriptions of various woven fabric types like buckram, cambric, casement, cheese cloth, chiffon, chintz, corduroy, crepe, denim, drill, flannel, gabardine, georgette, and more.
There are several types of pleats that are used in clothing and upholstery to gather fabric. The main types are accordion pleats, knife pleats, box pleats, and inverted pleats. Pleats add extra room and allow fabric to move, gathering a wide piece of fabric into a narrower space. Their main purpose is functionality - pleats allow for more freedom of movement and prevent tightening and creasing, especially in areas like the hips when sitting. Pleats can be found on many different garments and accessories.
1) Plain single jersey is a basic weft knitted fabric where the front side has face loops forming a "V" shape and the back side has back loops forming semi-circles.
2) It is produced using a plain circular latch needle machine with one set of needles knitting at each feed to form a single loop per course.
3) Single jersey fabric is lightweight, comfortable, and inexpensive to produce, making it widely used for apparel and other applications. Variations can be made by modifying the knitting order.
This document provides information about knitting and common knitting defects. It begins by defining knitting as a technique that uses intermeshed loops of yarn to form fabric. It then compares characteristics of woven and knitted fabrics. The document classifies types of knitted fabrics and defines important knitting terms. Finally, it describes and provides causes and remedies for several common knitting defects such as drop stitches, barriness, imperfections, and contamination.
This document discusses various types of knitted fabrics. It begins by explaining that knitting involves interlocking loops of yarn or thread to form cloth or crafts. There are two main types of knitting: weft knitting uses horizontal yarn fed into needles, while warp knitting uses vertical yarn loops. Specific weft knits discussed include single jersey, purl, rib, and interlock stitches. Warp knits highlighted are tricot, raschel, and milanese. The document also briefly touches on technical textiles, seamless technology, float plating technology, 3D fabrics, and knitting machines used.
Knit and woven fabrics are the two most common textiles used in clothing. Knits are made from interconnected loops while wovens use perpendicular threads over and under each other. The construction methods result in knits having properties like stretch and wrinkle resistance, while wovens are more structured with little stretch. Knits and wovens serve different purposes in clothing based on their properties.
This document discusses different types of woven pile fabrics. It begins by defining pile fabrics as those with tufts of cut warp or weft threads projecting at right angles from the foundation to form a brush-like surface. Pile fabrics are classified as either weft pile fabrics, like velveteen and corduroy, or warp pile fabrics, like velvet. The document then focuses on weft pile fabrics, describing their construction including the use of two types of weft threads and a low warp sett to allow for a high density of weft picks. Common weft pile fabrics are discussed along with details of velveteen fabrics and their classifications. The cutting of the pile floats is also briefly described.
This document is an assignment on pleats by Shubhi Goel for their 3rd semester B.Sc. in Fashion Designing & Technology. It defines pleats as folds made by doubling fabric back on itself and securing it in place, which are used to gather fabric. Pleats can be pressed or unpressed. The document discusses the history of pleating in ancient Egypt and its uses. It also covers the origins of pleated skirts in the 16th century. Different types of pleats and their impacts based on grain are described, including box, inverted, and knife pleats.
The document discusses various methods of fabric construction including weaving, looms, basic weaves like plain, twill and satin. It describes jacquard looms and how they allow for complex patterns through the use of punch cards. Specific fabric types are explained such as damask, brocade, velvet and casement cloth. Nonwoven fabrics like ultrasuede, felt and vinyl are also covered. The document provides information on determining warp and weft, fabric grain, pricing and how fabrics are sold to aid in selecting and working with various woven and nonwoven materials.
Pile fabrics: Manufacturing methods include woven pile fabric formation & others methods such as knit pile fabric, tufted pile fabrics etc. A "Terry" or a "Terry Towel" as is generally known is a woven pile fabric formed by slack tension weave process. of weaving.
This document discusses different types of fabric construction including yarn twist, texturing, weaving methods like plain, twill, and satin weaves, knitting, and bonded fabrics like felt. It covers characteristics of fabrics like construction method, texture, hand, weight, and lists some common fabric testing methods.
This document provides information on different types of velvet fabrics, including cotton velvet, silk velvet, velveteen, velour, corduroy, crinkle velvet, panne velvet, embossed velvet, cut velvet, and plush velvet. For each type of velvet, it describes the material composition, pile length, weight, and recommended uses. It also provides guidance on cutting, seaming, threading, pressing and other technical details for working with each velvet fabric.
Woven fabrics are made by interlacing two sets of yarn called the warp and weft yarns in a weaving process. Knit fabrics are made from a single set of yarn using a knitting process. Woven fabrics have more dimensional stability while knit fabrics have greater elasticity and recovery properties. Common examples of woven fabrics include shirts and denim while common knit fabrics include t-shirts and leggings.
This document discusses the different methods of fabric construction: weaving, knitting, bonding, and felting. Weaving involves interlacing warp and weft threads at right angles and can be plain, twill, or satin weaves. Knitting is the interlocking of yarn loops and can be weft or warp knitting. Bonding uses heat or adhesives to join synthetic fiber webs. Felting mats wool fibers using moisture, heat, and pressure. The construction method determines the fabric's appearance, feel, and performance properties.
Este documento describe el procedimiento para trazar el patrón de un saco en 16 pasos. Primero se traza la espalda con 16 puntos, incluyendo medidas de pecho, talle y largo. Luego se traza la parte delantera transportando 3 puntos clave y añadiendo 13 puntos más para definir detalles como la solapa y los botones. El trazo completo incluye medidas, puntos y líneas de construcción para ambas partes del saco.
Este documento presenta el programa de la asignatura Patronaje Industrial Masculino. Incluye tres unidades sobre el trazado y escalado de camisas, pantalones y chaquetas masculinas. El objetivo es que los estudiantes desarrollen habilidades para trazar y escalar estas prendas siguiendo patrones industriales.
Este documento resume el diseño de moda, incluyendo su definición, historia, tipos principales, diseñadores famosos como Coco Chanel y Christian Dior, la Semana de la Moda y algunas marcas famosas como Chanel, Gucci y Prada. Explora cómo el diseño de moda representa el estilo e ideas de un diseñador en un período cultural y social específico, y ha evolucionado a través de la historia para reflejar gustos estéticos y factores climáticos.
Este documento proporciona información sobre el impacto de la pandemia de COVID-19 en la economía mundial. Se espera que la economía global se contraiga un 3% en 2020, lo que sería la peor recesión desde la Gran Depresión. Muchos países experimentarán una contracción económica significativa debido a las medidas de confinamiento y el colapso de la demanda. Se espera que la recuperación sea gradual a medida que se levanten las restricciones y se desarrolle una vacuna.
Manual escrito por María Lourdes Cordero, el cual, en conjunción con la experiencia adquirida durante 30 años de ejercicio en la profesión de "Diseñador de Vestuario", estoy basado para elaborar las Vídeo Presentaciones, de: Diseño, Patronaje Digital, Confección y Mercadeo de Modas, que se pueden visualizar en mi canal de YouTube: "Escuela Merca Modas".
Visitenlo en el siguiente enlace:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCXZAiwvvwDFfYTBofwroVAQ
Here are the key measurements taken on the human body for patternmaking:
- Bust: Taken around the fullest part of the chest with arms relaxed.
- Waist: Taken around the natural waistline without compression.
- Hips: Taken around the fullest part of the hips and buttocks.
- Shoulders: Taken from the tip of one shoulder to the other across the back.
- Armscye: Taken around the body at the highest point of the armhole.
- Inseam: Taken from the crotch to the floor when legs are straight.
Other common measurements include neck circumference, sleeve length, thigh circumference, etc. Proper
Manual interpretativo elaborado por el SENA, Servicio Nacional de Aprendizaje en Colombia, con instrucciones completas de como elaborar todo tipo de prendas exteriores.
Tecnology of textile manufacturing sunilsuniltalekar1
This document summarizes different types of knitted fabrics and their key characteristics. It discusses the differences between knitted and woven fabrics, and then describes various knitting stitches and the fabrics they produce, including jersey/flat, purl, rib, interlock, double knit, warp knit, tricot and more. It provides details on each type of knit fabric like construction, appearance, common uses and variations.
This document discusses different types of knit fabrics. There are four main types of fabric: knitted, woven, non-woven, and braided. Knitted fabrics are made by interlocking loops of yarn, with the main types being single jersey, double jersey, rib, interlock, and purl. Woven fabrics interlace warp and weft yarns. Non-woven fabrics use mechanical or chemical bonding without weaving or knitting. Braided fabrics use at least three yarn groups from one set. The document then provides details on specific knitted fabrics, their properties, and common uses.
The document discusses different types of textiles including yarn, fabrics, and the processes used to make them. It provides information on:
1) Yarn is a continuous length of interlocked fibers that can be used to make textiles through processes like weaving, knitting, and spinning.
2) Fabrics are made by interlacing yarns through weaving or knitting. Woven fabrics use two sets of yarns (warp and weft) that intersect at right angles. Knitted fabrics use interlocking loops of yarn.
3) There are different types of structures for woven and knitted fabrics depending on how the yarns are interlaced. Key processes
This document provides descriptions of 14 different types of narrow fabrics:
1. Tape fabric - A plain weave fabric used for non-load bearing applications like file binding or identification.
2. Webbing - A coarse, multiply woven fabric used for climbing, furniture, and automotive applications.
3. Ribbon - An attractive narrow fabric characterized by fine warp yarns and high warp density, often lustrous, used for hair ties and packaging.
Fiber refers to thin strands that are much longer than they are wide and are used to make yarns, fabrics, and other materials. Common fibers include cotton from cotton plants, linen from flax plants, nylon which is a synthetic fiber, and polyester which is also synthetic. Man-made fibers are fibers created artificially rather than naturally. Seam allowances refer to the space between the edge of fabric and the stitching line in a garment. International Organization for Standardization and various Bangladesh trade organizations are also referenced in regards to textile industry standards and associations. Key textile terms defined include yoke, shrinkage, trimmings, yarn, fabric, and natural fibers.
This document discusses different types of knitting. It begins by explaining the basic process of knitting and different yarns and needles that can be used. It then describes various knitting machines including flat-bed and circular machines. The document focuses on classifying knitting into weft and warp knitting. It provides details on specific knitting stitches like jersey, purl, rib, and interlock. It also discusses characteristics and applications of different knitted fabrics.
This document discusses different types of knitting. It begins by explaining the basic process of knitting and different yarns and needles that can be used. It then describes various types of knitting machines including flat-bed and circular machines. The document focuses on classifying knitting into weft and warp knitting. It provides details on specific knitting stitches like jersey, purl, rib, and interlock. Warp knitting types like tricot, raschel, and milanese are also outlined. Finally, it briefly mentions double knit jacquard knitting machines.
Material exploration yarns & fabricsNeeraj Sinha
The document provides information about different types of fabrics including their properties and uses. It discusses woven fabrics like poplin, muslin and georgette. It also covers knitted fabrics and describes different types of industrial sewing machines, looms and printing techniques used for fabric production. The key details covered are the basic construction of fabrics using warp and weft yarns and comparing their properties. It summarizes various common fabrics like satin, velvet, flannel, gingham and drill explaining their characteristics and applications.
Weft knitting is a method of knitting fabric where loops are formed horizontally from a single yarn. There are several types of weft knitted fabrics including plain knits, purl knits, interlock knits, and rib knits. Plain knits have different face and back sides while rib knits have the same appearance on both sides due to the use of two sets of needles forming alternating wales of stitches. Rib knits have excellent stretch widthwise and are heavier, warmer, and more expensive than plain knits. Weft knitting is used to produce various garments and textiles.
The document discusses various topics related to advanced garment manufacturing including:
1) The three main divisions of apparel manufacturers - design, production, and sales. All divisions work together to design, produce, and sell clothing.
2) The design process and responsibilities of fashion designers which includes producing concepts, making sketches, developing patterns, overseeing production, and analyzing trends.
3) The different types of seams used in garment construction like plain seams, French seams, and decorative stitched seams. It also discusses techniques for adding fullness like darts, tucks, pleats and gathers.
4) Sequential operations in garment construction and the various classes of seams
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1. TABLE OF CONTENTS
S.No. Contents Page No.
1. Basic Textiles terms 1
2. Sequence of Operations In Garment production 1
3. Various types of fabric 2
4. Some of the common market terms of the fabric used in
Garment Industry
5
5. Introduction to different parts and style of garments 7
6. Tools for Pattern Drafting 15
7. Methods of pattern making 15
8. Draping 19
9. General principles for pattern alteration 22
10. Pattern grading 23
11. Pattern marking 28
12. Fabric consumption 30
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1. Basic Textiles terms
Yarn Basic raw material for weaving/Knitting
Type of
yarn
Single ply, double ply and multiply
Yarn count Defines thickness of yarn. Higher the count, finer the yarn
Warp Lengthwise yarn in the fabric.
Weft (filling) Width wise yarn in the fabric.
Selvedge Edges of the fabric running lengthwise
Woven
Fabric
Woven fabrics are made by using two or more sets of yarn interlaced
at right angles to each other.
Knitted
Fabric
Knitted fabrics are formed by series of interlocking loops
(example: knit wears)
Sewing
Thread
1. Sewing Thread is a type of yarn used for sewing.
2. Sequence of Operations in Garment production
Fabric inspection
layering Pattern Making
Cutting Fusing
Stickering and bundling
Stitching Buttoning and button holing
Washing
Ironing
Finishing
Packing
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3. Various types of fabric
Fabrics:- Sets of yarns are used for formation of fabric, Fabrics are produced
in number of ways which are detailed below:
Types of Fabrics
Woven Knitted Nonwoven Others
Woven Fabric: A woven fabric is composed of two basic series of yarn
called warp and weft
Knitted Fabric: Fabric which are constructed by interlocking a series of
loop of one or more yarns by hand or by machine are called knitted
Fabrics.
Non Woven Fabric: It is produced by mixing fibers and making into the
form of a thick layer of web of width corresponding to desired width of
the fabric.
Other Fabrics: Braids, Lace, Netting, Felt etc
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Parts of Woven fabrics:
Body: It is the main portion of the fabric
containing the intended fabric design.
Selvedge: It is is the narrow woven edge portion
of the fabric parallel to the warp, made with
special strong yarns in a closer construction than
the body to prevent unraveling.
Face: It is the intended front side of the fabric.
Back: It is the intended back side of the fabric.
Two base knitted fabric structures
Weft Knitting :
In Weft knitting loops are made in a horizontal
way from single yarn Intermeshing of loops takes
place on a course-wise. Type of weft knits are
Plain Jersey Knit , Purl Knit, Rib Knit , Patterned
Knits & Double Knits.
Warp Knitting:
In warp knitting loops are made in a vertical way
along the length of the fabric from each warp yarn
Intermeshing of loops takes place on a Wale-
wise. Type of warp knits are Tri-cot , Rachel
knits. .
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Lace Fabric
Lace is an ornamental or decorative openwork
fabric in which design elements formed by the inter
twisting of threads joined either by meshes, usually
of regular size & shape, forming an apparent
openwork fabric.
Net fabric
It consists of warp threads with weft threads which twist around each warp thread &
run diagonally from selvedge to selvedge. Net fabrics have three series of threads
parallel warp threads, mesh threads & binding threads.
Categorization of the fabric based on Processing:
Grey Fabric
Bleached Fabrics
Dyed Fabrics
Yarn Dyed Fabrics
Tie and Dye Fabrics
Printed Fabrics
Printed warp Fabrics
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Categorization of the fabric based on Pattern:
Plain Fabric
Stripes Fabric
Checks Fabric
Figured- Dobby & jacquard Fabric
Embroidered Fabric
4. Some of the common market terms of the fabric used in Garment Industry
2x2 Fabric in which two fold yarn is used in both directions.
2x1 Fabric having two fold yarn in one direction and single yarn in other
direction.
Brocade Rich heavy fabrics woven on jacquard looms having floral or figured
patterns emphasized by contrasting surfaces or colors.
Cambric A light weight closely woven plain weave fabric usually with a stiff
finish for giving weight and appearance.
Canvas Heavy durable cotton fabric made from coarse, hard twisted yarns.
Chiffon A transparent sheer fabric of plain weave. Yarns used are highly
twisted. Usually has a soft finish.
China Silk A very soft, extremely light weight silk made in a plain weave. Used
mainly for linings. Irregularities of threads, caused by extreme
lightness and softness of china silk are the characteristics of the
fabric.
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Corduroy A ribbed pile fabric with a high, soft luster. Made with extra warp or
weft threads. During weaving, the extra filling yarns form loops or
floats over the ground threads. After weaving, the loop threads are
cut. Threads are then brushed forming a pile.
Crepe Wide range of fabrics come under this name like crepe de chine,
crepe charmeuse, crepe-back satin etc., they have pebbly texture
and made with high twist yarn.
Denim Traditionally a 3/1 warp – faced twill fabric made from yarn-dyed warp
and undyed weft yarn.
Drill A twill fabric of similar construction to denim but usually piece dyed.
Georgette A fine light weight, open texture fabric usually in plain weave made
from crepe yarns usually two ‘s’ twisted and two ‘z’ twisted yarns are
used in warp and weft.
Flannel An all wool fabric of woolen type woven in plain weave or single twill.
During finishing, surface fibre is developed so that the weave is
partially or completely hidden. They are produced in white or in wool
dyed mixtures and is soft.
Flannelette It is a raised cotton fabric made to imitate true flannel.
Long cloth A fine plain weave closely woven high count fabric.
Muslin A lightweight, open cloth of plain weave or simple leno weave.
Organdie A thin, open and translucent fabric with stiff handle made from cotton,
woven in plain weave and given special stiff translucent permanent
finish.
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Poplin A durable plain weave class of fabrics having warp yarns that are
considerably finer than the weft yarns with about or three times as
many ends per inch as picks.
Spun x
Spun
Fabric in which spun yarns are used in both the direction.
Tafetta Crisp fabrics with fine, smooth surface usually made in the plain
weave, sometimes with a small crosswise rib. Originally made in silk
now made in man-made fibres also.
Texturised
yarn
Any yarn modified in such a way that its physical and surface
properties have been changed.
Voile A light weight, sheer fabric of plain weave made from fine yarns of
substantially more twist.
5. Introduction to different parts and style of garments
The style of a garment or garment part results from its outline or shape and other
identifying characteristics. “A particular style of garment usually refers to the cut of its
structural lines in a manner that has become recognized, accepted and named.
Some common styles are mentioned below.
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1. Neck line
Ready-to-wear apparel features a variety of neckline shapes and finishes.
The neckline edge is cut into the desired shape, and the raw edge of the
neckline is finished by any edge treatment such as facing, binding, or
banding.
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2. Collars A collar, or any band applied to the garment neckline
There are three basic collar types:
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(1) Flat Collar - A flat collar lies flat or nearly flat against the garment all around the
wearer’s neck.
(2) Standing Collar - A standing collar is a band extending straight up from the
neckline edge and standing up around the neck
(3) Rolled Collar (either full-roll or partial roll) - A rolled collar is a band of fabric
that rolls fully or partially around the neck. A full-roll collar rolls all the way around the
neck; a partial-roll collar rolls at the back of the neck and lies flat or nearly flat at the
front of the neck.
Sleeves
A sleeve is a covering for the arm that is attached at or near the armhole, or arms
eye, area of the garment. Sleeves are functional in providing modesty, warmth, or
protection but are equally important for their contribution to the style of the garment
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Some of the common
Sleeves Styles
3. Cuffs: Cuffs are the banded or turned-back finishes at the lower edges of
sleeve and pant legs
Open-band cuffs have an opening so the wearer can fit the cuff band over
the hand and then fasten it to fit snugly. Open-band cuffs include the following
types:
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1. Barrel cuff or shirt cuff, the most common type; it is a straight, open-band
cuff style. Long-sleeved shirts and blouses usually feature barrel cuffs. The
barrel cuff laps and buttons at the wrist.
2. Convertible cuff, an open band that fastens with layers superimposed to
resemble a French cuff.
3. French cuff or double-cuff, The French cuff is constructed like the barrel
cuff but twice as wide. Then the cuff is folded back on itself so the cuff is
doubled.
A closed-band cuff is an unbroken ring of fabric large enough to fit over the
arm. Turned-back cuffs on sleeves and cuffed pants are formed by turning
back or rolling up the lower portion of the sleeve or pant leg.
4. Pockets A pocket is a small pouch or bag sewn onto or into a garment and
used to carry small items. The four basic types of pockets are
1. Patch Pockets
Patch pockets or applied pockets are pieces of fabric attached, like a patch, to
the outside of the garment.
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Some of the Patch Pockets are
1. In-seam Pockets - pockets are inserted in a seam such as side seam or yoke
seam. The pocket hags are attached to the seam allowances and are not
visible from the outside.
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2. Slash Pockets- Slash pockets are made around an opening cut in the
garment.
3. Front hip Pockets
It is a variation of the in-seam pocket in which the garment front is shaped and
faced to the front pocket bag. The inner pocket hag fills in the cutaway portion
of the garment front.
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6. Tools for Pattern Drafting
1. Working Surface – A flat working surface is required for pattern making. This
surface should have polished or laminated top.
2. Paper – White paper or strong
brown paper is required for pattern
making.
3. Pencils – Hard pencils are used for
pattern drafting and colored pencils
are used for outlines.
4. Marker Pen – Marker pen is used
for writing instructions.
5. Curved Rules ( French Curve) –
French curve is used for drawing
long curves.
6. Set- Square – It is also useful for
pattern making.
7. Compass – Compass is used to
draw circles.
8. Shears/ Scissors – Scissors are used for pattern cutting.
9. Measuring Tapes – It is used for measurements.
10.Rubber, Scotch Tapes, Scales are also used for pattern making.
7. METHODS OF PATTERN MAKING
A basic pattern can be prepared by one of two methods: (1) by drafting (2) by
draping fabric on a model or on the person concerned.
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DRAFTING
Drafting may be defined as a system of drawing patterns on paper with mechanical
precision, on the basis of body measurements. This is an effective and economical
method which can be learnt easily unlike draping which requires a model, a lot of
fabric and considerable skill. This is also called as flat pattern designing.
TYPES OF PAPER PATTERNS
1. Standardised paper pattern:
Paper pattern prepared using standardised body measurements are
standardised paper patterns.
2. Individual Paper pattern.
The measurement of a particular person is taken and pattern is prepared
using ones individual measurements.
The pattern prepared for a particular person will not suit other persons. These
are usually done at home and at some tailoring shops.
3. Block paper pattern:
Generally these are made with standard sizes with thick cardboards. The
garment made out of these block patterns will fit for those who have
measurements equivalent to that of the standardised body measurement.
In garment industry these type of pattern will be helpful to cut bulk amount of
garment in less time.
4. Graded paper pattern:
Pattern of five consecutive sizes (for eg. 30”, 32”, 34”, 35”, 38” chest size) are
marked in one single pattern.
The required size according to the individual body measurement is traced
separately, cut and used.
5. Commercial paper pattern:
Commercial patterns are usually done on tissue paper. Since tissue paper is
not bulky, it allows many pieces of pattern to be packed compactly in an
envelope. In commercial patterns Seam allowances are included for safety.
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Good patterns are carefully labelled with the following information(ie) the
pattern size name of each pattern (back, front, sleeve etc), number of pieces
to cut from each pattern piece etc.,.
CONTENTS OF PAPER PATTERNS
A paper pattern should contain the following
information as given:
Name of the block e.g bodice front, back,
sleeve, skirt, collar, yoke, pocket, etc.
Grain line on each pattern piece
Size e.g. 32, 34, 36, 38, etc
Centre Front or Centre Back
Style number or code number of the
pattern
Pattern piece e.g skirt front or back
Cutting information – how many pieces
to be cut e.g cut 1, cut 2, cut on fold.
Notches – marks needed to help in
assembling of garment.
STEPS IN DRAFTING
Here we are showing an example for drafting a bodice pattern of a child (7 years old)
of sample measurements as: Chest 24” waist
length 10 ½”, waist 23”, back width 11”, sleeve
length 5”.
Bodice pattern For children, back and front
pattern can be drafted within the same
rectangle because it is not necessary to make
the front larger than the back. Construct
rectangle ABCD with the following
measurements:
Start Pattern Drafting
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AB = ¼ (bust + 5" ease allowance) = ¼ bust + 1 ¼" = 7 ¼",
AD = BC = back waist length + ½".
Mark AG = ½ back width = 5 ½",
AF = 1/12 chest = 2",
AH = 1",
AJ = 1/12 chest + ¼" = AF + ¼" = 2 ¼" and GK = 1".
Connect HF with a bold line as shown. This is the back neck line.
Connect JF with dotted line as shown. This is the front neck line.
Connect FK with a straight line. This is the shoulder seam.
Mark BL = ¼ chest = 6".
Draw GO parallel to and equal to BL.
Mark KX = 1/3 KO and XY = ½”.
Connect KXL as shown with a bold line.
This is the back armscye line.
Connect KYL as shown with a dotted line.
This is the front armscye line.
Mark CM = ½”. Connect LM. This is the
side seam
For dart, mark DN = ½ DM—½" and
NP=CL -1". Mark R and S. ½" on either
side of N and connect RP and SP.
BASIC SLEEVE PATTERN
In Fig, AD is on fold and is equal to sleeve length. AB= ¼ bust— ¼" (for adults
this was ¼ bust—1 ½"). Mark BE = ½ AB and DF = ½ lower arm + ¼". Connect AE.
Divide it into 4 equal parts and mark a, b, c. Mark cg=½", bf = ¼", ae = ¼" and ad –
½". Connect AgfeE (back arms eye line) and AgbdE (front arms eye line). Cut out the
sleeve and label it as explained under adult's sleeve.
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8. Draping
Draping is the manipulation of fabric on a three dimensional form by a designer to
obtain perfect fit and harmony between the fabrics and design of the garment and
the silhouette (outline or shape) of the individual. There are three common terms
used to describe this technique-draping, toile and modeling. A fourth term is
sometimes used namely moulage.
STEPS IN DRAPING
Stage 1:
Drape the uncut length of dress fabric over the stand.
Observe its natural characteristics, i.e. the ways it falls, its handle, texture and
weight etc.
Do not cut into the fabric, but pin to hold where necessary.
Stage 2:
Substitute dress fabrics; To model the entire garments in the actual fabric is
ideal, but unfortunately it makes experimentation expensive. For this reason,
use a fabric with similar properties which has been left over from a previous
collection.
Alternatively, the non-draped parts of the garment can be modelled in muslin
with just the draped sections made in the actual fabric. When draped designs
for checks or stripes, mark in the position of the lines on the muslin to get the
effect of the fabric and to match the lines along the seams.
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Stage 3:
Tape your stand: centre front, centre
back shoulders, seam lines, style line,
neck lines, waist, hip and bust line and
position and direction of drapes. (The
horizontal and vertical balance lines
help the drapes to hang correctly)
Stage 4:
Select and prepare the material:
Prepare the garment material since the whole
garment is cut, allow enough material to cover
both sides of the stand for each section.
The draping quality of the warp and weft grain
should be the same in order to match both
sides of a drape.
Allow plenty of excess material beyond the
outer edges of the stand and mark in the centre
vertical line and the warp grain with a
contrasting thread.
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Stage 5:
Place and pin material onto the stand in the following way:
A full toile is required, but need to model one side only, except for asymmetric
designs where both sides must be modelled.
Line up the vertical central thread with the centre front line of the stand, and
pin. To avoid injury to the fabric, use very fine pins, e.g. silk pins, and keep
pinning to a minimum.
Mould the fabric around the stand as desired, allowing the excess fabric to fall
freely into the area.
Where required the fullness of the drape to be placed. Use drapes in place of
darts.
The drapes can be continuing along the out edges of the stand and be
allowed to fall forwards or backwards into a cascade of drapery or be caught
up into a seam line etc.
Stage 6:
All the details should be indicated with pins rather than chalk and pins should
follow the direction of any darts, tucks, seams etc.,
Stage 7:
Remove from stand.
Stage 8:
Press: Do not press over pins as they will leave an impression in the fabric.
Stage 9:
True all lines of check details. The rough design now needs to be trued in
order to establish the correct grain line and to ensure that the armhole,
underarm sears and shoulder are the same length. Both sides although
perhaps not the same shape on the left and right side if the design is
asymmetric.
When a symmetric full toile is modelled, the left and right side will not be
exactly the same. Therefore, choose the better side and fold that side over on
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the centre line on the double to transfer shape and details. Transfer all
markings with thread.
Stage 10:
Check seam allowances.
Stage 11:
Make up and press
Stage 12:
Places on stand are model and check for any discrepancies.
9. GENERAL PRINCIPLES FOR PATTERN ALTERATION
A far as possible make changes within the pattern by slashing and spreading
or slashing and lapping. Patterns can also be altered by redrawing the edges
of the pattern. (This is the method adopted for altering garments at the time of
fitting.) But the first method is by far the best in altering paper patterns.
To preserve the original grain line, make all slashes and folds parallel or
perpendicular to the grain line (to centre front line, centre back line etc.)
Where there are darts, make changes between the tip of the dart and the
outside edge.
If an alteration in length is made along one edge of the pattern, take care to
make an identical alteration in the adjoining edge. For example, if back
shoulder seam is shortened then front shoulder seam should also be
shortened.
When tucks or darts are used for making a pattern smaller, remember that the
width of these should be just half the amount to be removed.
When decreasing or increasing the width of pattern pieces, if only half the
pattern (half back or half front) is used, subtract or add only one fourth of the
total adjustment to be made. For example, if waist measurement has to be
increased by one inch, add ¼" to the half back pattern and the same amount
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to the front pattern. If only a front or back section needs adjustment, add or
minus half the amount of the adjustment to the respective section.
When the pattern alteration involves slashing and spreading, it is necessary to
keep a sheet of paper beneath and to pin or stick to it the spread-out parts so
that they will thereafter remain in position. On spreading or lapping after
slashing, some edges of the pattern become jagged. These must be trimmed
after drawing the new seam lines.
10. PATTERN GRADING
It is very much helpful in the garment industry starting from a pattern drafted
from a particular size you can make patterns of other sizes by grading.
Grading is a method of enlarging or reducing a pattern of a particular size
proportionately to some other size.
To properly fit a pattern to a range of sizes, each pattern piece needs to be
graded, or systematically increased or decreased. Generally, a middle-sized
pattern (typically a size 12) and grade it up for larger sizes and grade it down
for smaller sizes (see one pattern, three sizes).
One pattern, three sizes A base size 12 pattern (left) can be graded up to a size
16 (center) using the cut-and-spread method, and similarly graded down to a size 6
(right) by cutting and overlapping along specified cut lines.
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Methods of grading
There are three basic methods of grading: cut and spread, pattern shifting, and
computer grading. No one method is technically superior and all are equally capable
of producing a correct grade.
Cut-and-spread method: The easiest method, which is the basis of the other two
methods, is to cut the pattern and spread the pieces by a specific amount to grade up,
or overlap them to grade down. No special training or tools are required-just scissors,
a pencil, tape, and a ruler that breaks 1 in. down to 1/64.
Pattern shifting: Pattern shifting is the process of increasing the overall dimensions of
a pattern by moving it to a measured distance up and down and left and right, (using a
specially designed ruler) and redrawing the outline, to produce the same results as the
cut-and-spread method.
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Computer Grading, is the fastest method, but
tends to be an investment intensive and only larger
manufacturers can afford. However, sophisticated
home computer software is becoming affordable.
MANUAL GRADING
MANUAL GRADING THE BACK BODICE:
Take the 32" size back bodice pattern (without seam allowance) and trace its
outline on a larger sheet of paper.
Extend the centre back line A1 A by one inch and mark four points at 1/4
intervals. (These represent bust sizes 32" to 40" at 2" intervals), Label the last
point as A2.
Mark C one inch vertically above B. Mark CD = ½" and connect DB. Divide
DB into 4 equal parts, and then connect these points to the points marked
above centre back line as shown.
Now draw DF parallel to the shoulder line BE, with DF = BE + 1". This will be
the shoulder line for 40'' size.
Connect F to the original shoulder point E. Mark three points which divide EF
into four equal parts, and join them to the corresponding points on BD by lines
which will be parallel to DF.
Next, draw the horizontal line LM from the underarm point and mark P as the
midpoint of AL.
Draw PQ as shown. Extend this line one inch outward and mark 4 points 1/4"
apart.
Now extend bust line LM and waist line A1R and mark points ½" apart.
Connect all the Points marked as shown in the figure
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GRADING THE FRONT BODICE
Take the 32" size front bodice pattern and race its outline on a larger sheet of
paper. Extend waist line AB beyond B and mark four points 3/8" apart. Label
the last point as C. Similarly extend bust line LM to LN and mark points 3/8"
apart on MN. Connect CN and corresponding points and extend these four
lines upwards.
These are the centre front lines of the various sizes. Extend line BA beyond A
and mark four points 1/8" apart. Label the last point as D. Similarly extend line
ML and mark four points 1/8" apart.
Connect all the corresponding points to form the side seam lines of the
various sizes.
On the shoulder line, rule vertical lines upwards
from G and H and mark off four points at J"
intervals along each of these lines.
Label the highest points as P and Q
respectively. Connect PQ and extend it on to
either side by and mark points I and K. IK is the
shoulder line of size 40. Connect GI and HK as
shown. This gives the angle for shoulder increase.
Rule the shoulder lines for the in between sizes
by connecting the points marked earlier, and
extending them on to either side as shown.
Extend centre front line upwards and mark off four
points 1/8" apart.
Label the highest point as F and connect KF as
shown.
Connect corresponding points to form the neck
lines and extend the lines to meet the centre front
lines.
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GRADING OF BASIC SLEEVE
Take the sleeve pattern of bust size 32" and trace its outline on a sheet of
paper.
Extend line AB one inch beyond B to B, and one inch beyond A to A.
Between A A1 and B B1 mark points at ¼ inch intervals. Extend the centre
line one inch beyond C to C1. On CC1, mark points inch apart.
Extend line EF one inch beyond F to F1 and one inch beyond E to E1.
Between E E1 and F F1 also mark point’s inch apart.
Now connect the respective points.
GRADING OF BASIC COLLAR
Take the collar pattern of bust size 32 inch and trace its outline on a sheet of
paper.
Extend the line A to A1, B to B1, C to C1 and D to D1.
Between A A1, B B1, C C1 and D D1 mark points at ¼ inch intervals.
Connect the respective points.
The outermost pattern is that of 40 inch size, next one 38 size, next 36 size
and so on.
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11. PATTERN MARKING
Marking should be done as
soon as the garment sections
have been cut and before the
pattern pieces have been
removed.
Pattern symbols to be marked include darts, pleats, tucks, and matching
circles. Beginners should also mark seam lines.
In some situations, marking a seam line is important to even the most
experienced sewer.
Always test the marking method on a fabric scrap before using it.
Tracing wheel and dressmakers TRACING PAPER MRKING METHOD
It is suitable only for firmly woven fabrics. It is especially good for woven
linings and interfacing. It is not appropriate for Sheers or light colours as
marking may show through to the right side.
Knits or stretch fabrics as marking will not be accurate because of the
stretchiness of the fabric.
Woollens may be too thick for tracing to transfer well.
In case of Silk/silk-like or napped fabrics also the teeth from the wheel may
pick or mar the fabric.
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Tailor’s tacks marking method
This method takes a lot of time but is the best choice for delicate fabrics.
Tailor’s tacks are used to mark circles on high quality fabrics and fabrics that are
loosely constructed.
Use a hand needle with double
thread (unknotted).
At each circle (dot on pattern)
take a stitch through both fabric
layers forming a 1-inch loop,
leaving about 2 inches of thread
at the beginning and at the end.
Gently pull off the pattern piece,
be careful not to disturb loops.
Pull the two fabric layers apart.
Clip the thread between the two
layers of fabric, so each layer has
a marking.
PIN MARKING METHOD
Insert pins into all circle
markings on the pattern.
Turn garment piece over and
insert another pin where the
first pin is. This marks both
garment pieces when pattern
has been cut on double-
thickness.
Unpin pattern pieces from the
fabric and pattern.
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Pull garment sections apart. Insert pins into fabric while or immediately fold to
form dart, matching pins.
Tailor’s Chalk, Dressmaker’s Pencils, Soap Slivers Marking Method
Tailor’s chalk, dressmaker’s pencils, and soap slivers are primarily used for
marking widths, such as hems and seams since they only mark one layer at a
time. Each of these easily rubs off.
Soap slivers can be used in place of tailor’s chalk or dressmaker’s pencil.
Marking pens should be washable. Pens are used the same way as tailor’s
chalk, marking pencils and soap slivers. Fabric marking pens may or may not
wash out and soap slivers are ideal, especially for washable fabrics
12. Fabric Consumption
Before calculating the fabric consumption, one needs the followings information as
mentioned below:
1) Measurement chart with technical
specifications.
2) Style Description.
3) Fabric Description.
4) Fabrics width/weight.
5) Washing shrinkage if any.
This formula to calculate fabric
consumption is as under :
Formula =( Length X Width) / (Fabric
width X Fabric Unit)
Here,
Length = length of the specific parts + allowance
Width = width of the specific parts + allowance
Fabric width = Fabric width (after considering the shrinkage allowance). Say, fabric
width is 45″ & the shrinkage allowance is 1″, Then the Fabric width will be (45″-1″) =
44″ in the formula.
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Fabric unit = Fabric calculation unit, here it will be 36 in order to calculate the
consumption in Yards.
Now to calculate the consumption of a Shirt (front part)
Center front length = 32″+1″ (Sewing allowance) = 33″
Width (Chest) = 24″ + 1″ (Sewing allowance) + 3″ Pleat (1.5X2) = 28″
Consumption = Length X Width / Fab width X Fab Unit
= 33″ X 28″ / 44″ X 36″
= 924″ / 1584″
= 0.5833333
= 0.59 Yards. (For front part)