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COSMECEUTICALS
Written by:
Muhammad Rashid Munib
POINTS TO DISCUSS
•Introduction to cosmeceuticals
•Types of Ingredients used in cosmeceuticals
•Classification of cosmeceuticals
•Plants used in cosmeceuticals
•Minerals used in cosmeceuticals
•Advantages of cosmeceuticals
•Side effects
INTRODUCTION
• Cosmeceuticals was introduced by Albert Kligman in 1984.
• Referred as substances that exerted both cosmetic and therapeutic benefits.
• Fastest‐growing segment of the natural personal care industry.
According to FDA Cosmeceuticals are defined as,
“Cosmeceuticals are the cosmetic products which contain biologically active ingredients of plant
origin having effects on users. They are the combination products of cosmetics and
pharmaceuticals, intended to enhance the health and beauty of the skin.”
• These differ from the cosmetic, cosmetics are the inert substances which cleanse or enhance the
appearance of the skin without any therapeutic effect. Whereas the pharmaceuticals are used to
treat or prevent the diseases or intended to affect the physiological structure or function of the body.
SIGNIFICANCE
Cosmeceutical products claim to have a wide range of skin benefits such as,
 To help minimize cosmetic problems like fine lines, uneven skin tone, or
dull complexion.
 They can help you maintain your healthy skin, without needing a
prescription.
 They are used to improve cosmetic problems like hyperpigmentation,
cellulite, large pores, and acne.
 The vast majority of cosmeceutical products are for combating
aging—wrinkles, loss of elasticity and tone and sun damage.
TYPES OF INGREDIENTS
CLASSIFICATION
Generally, cosmeceuticals are classified into following types:
• Photoaging Agents
• Peeling agents
• Sebum regulators
• Hair Growth Enhancers
• Moisturizers
• Botanical Extracts
• Topical Retinoids
• Depigmentation Agents
Photoaging agents: These are the agents that protect the skin from premature aging of the skin due to the
damage caused by the ultraviolet radiation of the sun and can also lead to skin cancer. These agents include
Retinoids, and vitamins. Some brands available in market are:
 Retin-A
 Avita
 Olay Regenerist
Peeling agent: The agents that promote the softening and shedding of the horny outer layer of the
skin to improve and smoothen the texture of the skin are called as peeling agents. Most commonly used
peeling agents are hydroxy acids and salicylic acids.
Brands available are:
1.Obagi Clinical Blue Brilliance
2.Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta universal peel
3.InstaNatural 30% Glycolic Acid
Sebum Regulators: Sebum is a sticky, oily substance produced by the sebaceous glands, which sit in
the middle layers of the skin, near hair follicles. Sebum helps moisturize and protect the skin. It contains
several types of fat molecule, or lipids. Human sebum consists of 57.5% triglycerides and fatty acids, 26%
wax esters, and 12% squalene, a lipid.
Agents that regulates the sebum production includes,
• Squalene
• Hyaluronic Acid
• Alpha Hydroxy Acids
• Glycerol
• Jojoba Oil
Brands Of sebum regulators are:
• Alpaflor Alp-Sebum Cb
• Lierac Gel
• Eptaderm
Hair Growth Enhancers: Hair growth enhancers are the agents that promotes the growth of hair by
forming new hair follicles and preventing the hair loss. The agents that are proven to enhance hair growth
are minoxidil, finasteride, tea tree oil, argon oil and lavender oil.
Brands available are:
• Amazon Minoxidil Topical Solution for Men
• Shapiro MD Hair Growth Experts for Women
• Keranique Hair Regrowth Treatment 2% Minoxidil
• Regenivade 5% Minoxidil Topical Foam for men
Moisturizers: Moisturizers are the agents that help the skin to prevent dryness by increasing the water
content of the skin. Smoothening of the skin is observed immediately after the application of the
moisturizers
Brands available are:
• CeraVe AM Facial Moisturizing Lotion
• Neutrogena Hydro Boost Water Gel
• Ponds Super Light Gel.
Botanicals: Botanical extracts are plant materials with concentrated therapeutic properties. Botanical
extracts allow for the skin to replenish. They also contain many healing properties and have antioxidant
effects
Botanical extract used in cosmeceutical products are:
• Eucalyptus Extract
• Aloe Vera Extract
• Sea Buckthorn Extract
• Soy Extract
• Chamomile Extract
• Rose Extract
Brands available in market are:
• Chiltan Pure Facial kit
• Lush organics
• CoNatural
Topical Retinoids: Topical retinoids are the prescription for the treatment of acne. They help unclog
pores by boosting the production of new skin cells. These medicines are usually only prescribed after
other acne treatments have failed. They may have side effects like mild skin irritation.
Topical retinoids include:
• Adapalene
• Alitretinoin
• Tazarotene
Retinoids available in market are:
• RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Face Cream
• Olay Regenerist Retinol 24 Night Moisturizer
• L'Oreal Paris Revitalift Moisturizer
Depigmenting Agents: Depigmenting agents are topical lightening agents used for skin
disorders associated with hyperpigmentation and melasma (a condition that causes dark,
discolored patches on your skin).
Commonly used depigmenting agents include:
• Hydroquinone
• Azelaic Acid
• Kojic Acid
• Ascorbic Acid
Brands available in market are:
• Meladerm
• Revitol
• Pond’s Clarant B3 Dark Spot Correcting Cream
PLANTS USED IN COSMECEUTICALS
Rose
Lavender
Cucumber
Rosemary
Chamomile
Rose
Botanical origin: Rosa rubiginosa, Rosa centifolia
Common Name: Rose, Gulab
Family: Rosaseae
Part used: Flower and seeds.
Habit: Erect, climbing, or trailing shrubs, the stems of which are usually copiously armed with prickles
of various shapes and sizes, commonly called thorns.
Habitat: Roses are primarily to temperate regions of the northern hemisphere, most rose species are
found Asia, with smaller numbers being native to America and a few in Europe and also Africa.
Constituents: Contains, flavonoids, triterpenes, tannins, phenolic acids, polysaccharides, fatty acids,
organic acids, carotenoids and vitamins.
Medicinal uses: Rose extract has cleansing, anti- bacterial and antiseptic properties it also has anti-
inflammatory and anti-parasitic astringent properties.
Cucumber
Botanical origin: Cucumis sativus.
Common Name: Cucumis sativus, kankri, khira.
Family: Cucurbitaceae
Part used: Fruit, seed, and stem.
Habit: Cucumber plants can be sprawling vines (climber) that will grow from four to 12 or even 15 feet
long.
Habitat: The cucumber originates from Himalaya to China (Yunnan, Guizhou, Guangxi) and North
Thailand
Constituents: Several bioactive compounds have been isolated from cucumber includes, cucurbitacins,
cucumegastigmanes I and II, cucumerin A and B, vitexin, orientin, isoscoparin glucoside, apigenin
Medicinal uses: It helps fight free radicals in the body, ease sunburn pain, swelling, and damaged
skin. It helps to lower blood sugar level and to lose weight.
Rosemary
Botanical origin: Salvia Rosmarinus, Rosmarinus officinalis
Common Name: Compass Weed, Akleel Kohistani, Gulmehendi .
Family: Liliaceae
Part used: The leaf and its oil.
Habit: Erect, rounded, evergreen shrub with aromatic, needle-like, gray-green leaves and tiny, two-
lipped, pale blue to white flowers.
Habitat: It is native to the Mediterranean region, but is reasonably hardy in cool climates..
Constituents: The main constituents of rosemary are Triterpenes, Phenolic diterpenes, Phenolic acids
including rosmarinic acid, carnosic acid, rosmanol, carnosol, ursolic acid and betulinic acid.
Medicinal uses: Rosemary has antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant, anti-apoptotic, anti-
tumorigenic, antinociceptive, and neuroprotective properties. It helps to fight acne, tighten skin,
smooth out fine lines, deodorize naturally, remove under-eye bags, cellulite and reduce inflammation
Lavender
Botanical origin: Lavandula angustifolia and Lavandula latifolia
Common Name: Lavender, Huzam, English lavender, True lavender
Family: Lamiaceae
Part used: Flower and seeds.
Habit: Strongly aromatic shrub growing to 1–2m tall.
Habitat: Lavender's native habitat is the area around the Mediterranean Sea which has dry,
chalky/rocky ground.
Constituents: The main constituents of lavender are linalool, linalyl acetate, 1,8-cineole, β-ocimene,
terpinen-4-ol and camphor.
Medicinal uses: Inhalation therapy is used to treat headaches, nervous disorders and exhaustion.
Lavender oil is used to the treat skin ailments, such as fungal infections (candidiasis), wounds, eczema,
acne and also used in a healing bath for joint and muscle pain.
Chamomile
Botanical origin: Matricaria chamomilla
Common Name: German chamomile, Gul e Babona,
Hungarian chamomile (kamilla), wild chamomile,
blue chamomile or scented mayweed.
Family: Asteraceae
Part used: Dried flowers of chamomile.
Habit: Chamomile is an annual plant with thin spindle-shaped roots only penetrating flatly into the
soil.
Habitat: Native to southern and eastern Europe and western Asia.
Constituents: The main constituents of Chamomile are Sesquiterpenes, Chamazulene, Flavonoids,
coumarins (herniarin, umbelliferone) and polyacetylenes.
Medicinal uses: Chamomile is commonly used for hay fever, inflammation, muscle spasms, menstrual
disorders, insomnia, ulcers, wounds, gastrointestinal disorders, rheumatic pain, and hemorrhoids. It is
also used to treat mild skin irritations, including sunburn, rashes, sores and even eye inflammations.
Advantages of Cosmeceuticals
 Cosmeceuticals provides a lot of advantages in the beauty market today.
 They are used to improve cosmetic problems like,Hyperpigmentation, Cellulite, Large Pores,
Acne, Aging Wrinkles, Loss of Elasticity and Tone, Sun Damage.
 Cosmeceuticals can help minimize cosmetic problems like fine lines, uneven skin tone or dull
complexion.
 They can help you maintain your healthy skin, without needing a prescription
SIDE EFFECTS
Excessive use of Cosmeceutical products may lead to,
 Lung Cancer if chemicals are inhaled
 Skin Cancer
 Permanent Dark Circles
 Clogging of Pores
 Lead Poisoning
 Brain damage
 Behavior abnormalities
 Poor muscle coordination
 Hearing and vision impairment
 Skin Allergies
COSMECEUTICALS: AN INTRODUCTION

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COSMECEUTICALS: AN INTRODUCTION

  • 2. POINTS TO DISCUSS •Introduction to cosmeceuticals •Types of Ingredients used in cosmeceuticals •Classification of cosmeceuticals •Plants used in cosmeceuticals •Minerals used in cosmeceuticals •Advantages of cosmeceuticals •Side effects
  • 3. INTRODUCTION • Cosmeceuticals was introduced by Albert Kligman in 1984. • Referred as substances that exerted both cosmetic and therapeutic benefits. • Fastest‐growing segment of the natural personal care industry. According to FDA Cosmeceuticals are defined as, “Cosmeceuticals are the cosmetic products which contain biologically active ingredients of plant origin having effects on users. They are the combination products of cosmetics and pharmaceuticals, intended to enhance the health and beauty of the skin.” • These differ from the cosmetic, cosmetics are the inert substances which cleanse or enhance the appearance of the skin without any therapeutic effect. Whereas the pharmaceuticals are used to treat or prevent the diseases or intended to affect the physiological structure or function of the body.
  • 4. SIGNIFICANCE Cosmeceutical products claim to have a wide range of skin benefits such as,  To help minimize cosmetic problems like fine lines, uneven skin tone, or dull complexion.  They can help you maintain your healthy skin, without needing a prescription.  They are used to improve cosmetic problems like hyperpigmentation, cellulite, large pores, and acne.  The vast majority of cosmeceutical products are for combating aging—wrinkles, loss of elasticity and tone and sun damage.
  • 6. CLASSIFICATION Generally, cosmeceuticals are classified into following types: • Photoaging Agents • Peeling agents • Sebum regulators • Hair Growth Enhancers • Moisturizers • Botanical Extracts • Topical Retinoids • Depigmentation Agents Photoaging agents: These are the agents that protect the skin from premature aging of the skin due to the damage caused by the ultraviolet radiation of the sun and can also lead to skin cancer. These agents include Retinoids, and vitamins. Some brands available in market are:  Retin-A  Avita  Olay Regenerist
  • 7. Peeling agent: The agents that promote the softening and shedding of the horny outer layer of the skin to improve and smoothen the texture of the skin are called as peeling agents. Most commonly used peeling agents are hydroxy acids and salicylic acids. Brands available are: 1.Obagi Clinical Blue Brilliance 2.Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta universal peel 3.InstaNatural 30% Glycolic Acid Sebum Regulators: Sebum is a sticky, oily substance produced by the sebaceous glands, which sit in the middle layers of the skin, near hair follicles. Sebum helps moisturize and protect the skin. It contains several types of fat molecule, or lipids. Human sebum consists of 57.5% triglycerides and fatty acids, 26% wax esters, and 12% squalene, a lipid. Agents that regulates the sebum production includes, • Squalene • Hyaluronic Acid • Alpha Hydroxy Acids • Glycerol • Jojoba Oil Brands Of sebum regulators are: • Alpaflor Alp-Sebum Cb • Lierac Gel • Eptaderm
  • 8. Hair Growth Enhancers: Hair growth enhancers are the agents that promotes the growth of hair by forming new hair follicles and preventing the hair loss. The agents that are proven to enhance hair growth are minoxidil, finasteride, tea tree oil, argon oil and lavender oil. Brands available are: • Amazon Minoxidil Topical Solution for Men • Shapiro MD Hair Growth Experts for Women • Keranique Hair Regrowth Treatment 2% Minoxidil • Regenivade 5% Minoxidil Topical Foam for men Moisturizers: Moisturizers are the agents that help the skin to prevent dryness by increasing the water content of the skin. Smoothening of the skin is observed immediately after the application of the moisturizers Brands available are: • CeraVe AM Facial Moisturizing Lotion • Neutrogena Hydro Boost Water Gel • Ponds Super Light Gel. Botanicals: Botanical extracts are plant materials with concentrated therapeutic properties. Botanical extracts allow for the skin to replenish. They also contain many healing properties and have antioxidant effects
  • 9. Botanical extract used in cosmeceutical products are: • Eucalyptus Extract • Aloe Vera Extract • Sea Buckthorn Extract • Soy Extract • Chamomile Extract • Rose Extract Brands available in market are: • Chiltan Pure Facial kit • Lush organics • CoNatural Topical Retinoids: Topical retinoids are the prescription for the treatment of acne. They help unclog pores by boosting the production of new skin cells. These medicines are usually only prescribed after other acne treatments have failed. They may have side effects like mild skin irritation. Topical retinoids include: • Adapalene • Alitretinoin • Tazarotene
  • 10. Retinoids available in market are: • RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Face Cream • Olay Regenerist Retinol 24 Night Moisturizer • L'Oreal Paris Revitalift Moisturizer Depigmenting Agents: Depigmenting agents are topical lightening agents used for skin disorders associated with hyperpigmentation and melasma (a condition that causes dark, discolored patches on your skin). Commonly used depigmenting agents include: • Hydroquinone • Azelaic Acid • Kojic Acid • Ascorbic Acid Brands available in market are: • Meladerm • Revitol • Pond’s Clarant B3 Dark Spot Correcting Cream
  • 11. PLANTS USED IN COSMECEUTICALS Rose Lavender Cucumber Rosemary Chamomile Rose Botanical origin: Rosa rubiginosa, Rosa centifolia Common Name: Rose, Gulab Family: Rosaseae Part used: Flower and seeds. Habit: Erect, climbing, or trailing shrubs, the stems of which are usually copiously armed with prickles of various shapes and sizes, commonly called thorns. Habitat: Roses are primarily to temperate regions of the northern hemisphere, most rose species are found Asia, with smaller numbers being native to America and a few in Europe and also Africa.
  • 12. Constituents: Contains, flavonoids, triterpenes, tannins, phenolic acids, polysaccharides, fatty acids, organic acids, carotenoids and vitamins. Medicinal uses: Rose extract has cleansing, anti- bacterial and antiseptic properties it also has anti- inflammatory and anti-parasitic astringent properties. Cucumber Botanical origin: Cucumis sativus. Common Name: Cucumis sativus, kankri, khira. Family: Cucurbitaceae Part used: Fruit, seed, and stem. Habit: Cucumber plants can be sprawling vines (climber) that will grow from four to 12 or even 15 feet long. Habitat: The cucumber originates from Himalaya to China (Yunnan, Guizhou, Guangxi) and North Thailand
  • 13. Constituents: Several bioactive compounds have been isolated from cucumber includes, cucurbitacins, cucumegastigmanes I and II, cucumerin A and B, vitexin, orientin, isoscoparin glucoside, apigenin Medicinal uses: It helps fight free radicals in the body, ease sunburn pain, swelling, and damaged skin. It helps to lower blood sugar level and to lose weight. Rosemary Botanical origin: Salvia Rosmarinus, Rosmarinus officinalis Common Name: Compass Weed, Akleel Kohistani, Gulmehendi . Family: Liliaceae Part used: The leaf and its oil. Habit: Erect, rounded, evergreen shrub with aromatic, needle-like, gray-green leaves and tiny, two- lipped, pale blue to white flowers. Habitat: It is native to the Mediterranean region, but is reasonably hardy in cool climates.. Constituents: The main constituents of rosemary are Triterpenes, Phenolic diterpenes, Phenolic acids including rosmarinic acid, carnosic acid, rosmanol, carnosol, ursolic acid and betulinic acid.
  • 14. Medicinal uses: Rosemary has antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant, anti-apoptotic, anti- tumorigenic, antinociceptive, and neuroprotective properties. It helps to fight acne, tighten skin, smooth out fine lines, deodorize naturally, remove under-eye bags, cellulite and reduce inflammation Lavender Botanical origin: Lavandula angustifolia and Lavandula latifolia Common Name: Lavender, Huzam, English lavender, True lavender Family: Lamiaceae Part used: Flower and seeds. Habit: Strongly aromatic shrub growing to 1–2m tall. Habitat: Lavender's native habitat is the area around the Mediterranean Sea which has dry, chalky/rocky ground. Constituents: The main constituents of lavender are linalool, linalyl acetate, 1,8-cineole, β-ocimene, terpinen-4-ol and camphor.
  • 15. Medicinal uses: Inhalation therapy is used to treat headaches, nervous disorders and exhaustion. Lavender oil is used to the treat skin ailments, such as fungal infections (candidiasis), wounds, eczema, acne and also used in a healing bath for joint and muscle pain. Chamomile Botanical origin: Matricaria chamomilla Common Name: German chamomile, Gul e Babona, Hungarian chamomile (kamilla), wild chamomile, blue chamomile or scented mayweed. Family: Asteraceae Part used: Dried flowers of chamomile. Habit: Chamomile is an annual plant with thin spindle-shaped roots only penetrating flatly into the soil. Habitat: Native to southern and eastern Europe and western Asia. Constituents: The main constituents of Chamomile are Sesquiterpenes, Chamazulene, Flavonoids, coumarins (herniarin, umbelliferone) and polyacetylenes.
  • 16. Medicinal uses: Chamomile is commonly used for hay fever, inflammation, muscle spasms, menstrual disorders, insomnia, ulcers, wounds, gastrointestinal disorders, rheumatic pain, and hemorrhoids. It is also used to treat mild skin irritations, including sunburn, rashes, sores and even eye inflammations. Advantages of Cosmeceuticals  Cosmeceuticals provides a lot of advantages in the beauty market today.  They are used to improve cosmetic problems like,Hyperpigmentation, Cellulite, Large Pores, Acne, Aging Wrinkles, Loss of Elasticity and Tone, Sun Damage.  Cosmeceuticals can help minimize cosmetic problems like fine lines, uneven skin tone or dull complexion.  They can help you maintain your healthy skin, without needing a prescription
  • 17. SIDE EFFECTS Excessive use of Cosmeceutical products may lead to,  Lung Cancer if chemicals are inhaled  Skin Cancer  Permanent Dark Circles  Clogging of Pores  Lead Poisoning  Brain damage  Behavior abnormalities  Poor muscle coordination  Hearing and vision impairment  Skin Allergies