Unit 3 of B pharm..Sem 6th Herbal cosmetics ,market overview, sources of description of raw material of herbal ,waxes,gum colour, perfume, protective agent , bleaching agent, preservatives

1. Herbal drug technology -
herbal cosmetics
unit 3
Presented by Snehal
D.Darekar
T.Y.B.Pharm
Roll no.13
Parikrama college of
pharmacy, kashti.

2. What are cosmetics-
 Cosmetics are substances that are used to enhance
the odor and appearance of human body.
 FDAdefines cosmetics as "intended to be applied to the
human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting
attractiveness, or altering the appearance without
affecting the body's structure or functions."
 What are herbal cosmetics?
 These are the cosmetics which are prepared using
plant products having cosmetic actions.
 Recently the use of botanicals in cosmetics have
increased mainly due to the mild action and non-toxic
nature.
 In cosmetics, both natural and phyto-ingredients are
used. Natural products include oils, extracts, secretions
etc. Phyto-ingredients include pure constituents
obtained by various process.

3. DEFINATION:
 According to D & CAct 1940, Any article
intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled
or sprayed.
 TYPES ACCORDING TO SITE OF APPLICATION-
 • Skin
 • Hair
 • Dentifrice
 • Nail
 • Eyes

5.  The herbal approach of proper skin care
is principally based on three essential
steps-
 • Cleanse
 • Nourish
 • Moisture
 Whatever may be the type of skin; these
three steps are external care of
 the skin to protect from the constant
effect of environment, stress and
 skins natural process of cell degradation
decay.

6. HERBAL COSMETICS FOR
VARIOUS TYPES OF SKIN-
 1. FOR DRY SKIN
 Example of Herbs:
 • Rubia Cardifolia (Manjista),
 • Triphla,
 • Tulsi,
 • Glycerihza glabra in sesame oil.
 Fruit face mask:
 • Banana or avocado pulp.
 2. FOR SENSITIVE SKIN
 Example of Herbs:
 • Usheero,
 • Curcuma longa,
 • Triphala,
 • Azadircta indica mustaka,
 • Nimba in coconut oil.
 Fruit face mask:
 • Banana or pineapple pulp.

7. 3.FOR OILY SKIN
 Example of Herbs:
 • Tulsi,
 • Idhora,
 • Jatiphata,
 • Nimba,
 • Terminalia arjuna,
 • Curcuma longa. Fruit face mask:
 • Strawberry or papaya pulp

8. TYPES OF HERBAL CREAMS
AND LOTIONS-
 COLD CREAMS:
 It is an emulsion in which the fat predominates, but the
cooling effect produced when it is applied to the skin is
due to skin evaporation of the water contained.
e.g:Almond oil.
 VANISHING CREAMS:
 Vanishing creams are also called foundation creams
because they disappears when
 rubbed into skins. e.g: Rose oil.
 CLEANSING CREAMS:
 A satisfactory cleansing cream is water in oil emulsion
that melts at temperature of body and spreads readily
over the skin.
 FACE LOTION:
 These are also called the bleaching lotions, actually
alter the color of skin like the whitening cream

9. HERBS FOR SKIN CARE
 Green tea
 Camellia sinensis
 Protects against damage to the cell moderates
inflammation.
 Turmeric
 Curcuma longa
 produce natural golden glow and has healing effect.
 Rose
 Rosa
 Used as toner for fair and dry skin.
 Sandal
 Santalum album
 Cooling and calming with natural astringent and
antiseptic properties.

10. RAW MATERIALS:
1)Antibacterial agents and
preservatives
2) Colorants
3) Skin feel agents
4) Hydrating substances
5) Ceramides and lipids
6) Moisturizers
7) Thickners

11. 8) Uv filters
9) Skin whitening: ellagic acid
10) Skin whitening: new hydroquinone
combination
11) Alpha hydroxy acids
12) Surfactants
13) Anti-irritants for surfactant based
products

12.  14) Seawater salts
 15) Silicones-A key ingredient in
cosmetic and toiletry formulations
 16) Antioxidants
 17) Dexpanthenol
 18) Hair conditioners

13. 1.ANTI BACTERIAL AND
PRESERVATIVES:
 The term “antibacterial agent” is largely used
to qualify chemical agents, which are
included in cosmetics or household products
to provide them. . . I. Bactericidal or
bacteriostatic activity II.To protect the product
by providing a preservative efficacy against
micro-organisms.
 Historically, the first antibacterial products
developed were skin wash products such as
soap bars, derived from deodorant soap bar.
 The purpose was not only to clean the skin
but also to reduce its microbial flora.
 In the past, antibacterial soap bars were
prepared with formaldehyde. These were
very effective for hospital use, but the use of

14. Preservatives-

16.  2.WATER:
 It is the most widely used raw materials in the
manufacture of cosmetics.
 Water is used as a solvent for many ingredients of
cosmetics.
3.COLORANTS:
The use of coloring agents for decorative purpose is
one of the earliest cultural accomplishments of
humankind.
The dramatic boom in the development of color
industry led to numerous new colorants and
pigments
Inorganic pigments are used in large quantities
 In coloring decorative cosmetics several products
are of vital ipmortance: e.g titanium dioxide is
most important white pigment
 Iron oxides and iron hydroxides for the colors
yellow,red and black,ultramarine especially in blue

17. CLASSIFICATION OF
COLORANTS:
 Based on its solubilty there are three
classes
 1.Colorants that are soluble in the
medium being colored(usually water or
oil soluble)
 2.Pigments and colour lakes that are not
soluble in the medium being colored
 3.Water dispersible colorants
 Although there are approximately 160
approved cosmetic colorants ,but only a
limited number of them are really used

18. 4.SKIN FEEL AGENTS:
 Substances conferring sensorial
properties to a skin care
product,triggering pleasant perception
during application onto the skin and
after use
It includes:
 lipophillic materials,silicones,water
soluble polymeric substances and
their cationic derivatives

19. EMOLLIENTS:
 Cosmetic ingredients which help to
maintain the soft,smooth and pliable
apperance of the skin
 Obtained from natural origin
CLASSIFICATION:
 1: polar substances(esters and
triglycerides)
 2:non polar substances(paraffins and
iso paraffins) As a class they comprise
lipids,oils and their derivatives,fatty acid
esters,lanolin derivatives and silicones.
al synthesis

20. LANOLIN:
 Extracted from sheep wool grease
Complex mixtures of esters of high
molecular weight lanolin alcohols and
lanolin fattyacids
 Free lanolin alcohols ,acids and
lanolin hydrocarbons are minor
 75 mole ethoxylated lanolin is
recommended as skin conditioner in
soaps and liqiud cleansing products

21. WAXES:
 Some common waxes used in
cosmetics are beeswax, candelilla,
carnauba, polyethylene, and paraffin
Commonly used in lip balms and
sticks, waxes function as structuring
agents, giving the stick enough rigidity
to stand up on its own, as well as
barrier properties

22. SOFT PARAFFIN:
 Soft paraffin – mixture of hydrocarbon
obtained from petroleum
 Two types- yellow and white soft
paraffin
 Emollient in nature
 Hydrophobic in nature –produce
occlusive film which prevents water
loss from skin

23. Moisturizers- are generally polar materials that
are hygroscopic in nature they hold onto
water Glycerin is a very cost-effective
ingredient used to help reduce TEWL.
Aloe contains a mixture of polysaccharides,
carbohydrates, and minerals, is an excellent
moisturizer.
THICKNERS:
-By incorporating enough wax into a thin lotion,
a thick cream can be formed. Many
thickeners are polymers e.g cellulose and
carbopol.
-Carrageenan, pectin, and locust bean gum
are all examples of cosmetic thickeners.

24.  .ACTIVE INGREDIENTS:
 Materials that work physiologically
within the skin or aid in protecting the
skin are called active ingredients.
 Fruit acids are an example of an active
material. Also called alpha hydroxyacids.
They have the ability to penetrate the
skin.
 Thousands of cosmetic actives are
used to affect the skin in a variety of
ways.
 Some active materials are added to
skin treatments to protect

25. PRESERVATIVES-
 Most cosmetic products require the
addition of preservative to prevent
microbial contamination and rancidity.
 Parabens and ester of parabenzoic acid
are the most commonly used because
of their effectiveness against gram-
positive bacteria. Phenoxyethanol is
used to protect against gram negative
strains.
 Antioxidants such as tocopherol (vitamin
E) are also added to prevent oxidation
of sensitive ingredients as well as protect
the skin from free-radical damage.

26. Thank u