19. Nonenzimatik
Mineral
Zinc,
selenium
Vitamin
Vitamin A, C,
E, K
Karotenoid
Β-karoten,
likopen
Organosulfur Allium, indol
Kofaktor Koenzim Q10
BM rendah
Glutation,
asam urat
Polifenol
Flavonoid
Asam fenolat
Enzimatik
Primer
SOD, katalase,
glutation
peroksidase
Sekunder
Glutation
reduktase, G6PD
ANTIOKSIDAN
28. SEBELUM SINTESIS MELANIN Transkripsi tirosinase :
Tretinoin
SELAMA SINTESIS MELANIN Inhibisi tirosinase :
- Hidrokuinon
- 4-hidroxyanisole
- Arbutin
- Aloesin
- Asam azeleat
- Asam kojik
- Emblica
- Tirostat
Inhibisi peroksidase :
- Fenol
ROS scavenger :
- Asam askorbat
- Asam askorbat palmitat
29. SETELAH SINTESIS MELANIN Degradasi tirosinase :
- Asam linoleat
- Asam linolenat
Inhibisi transfer melanosom :
- Inhibitor serin protease
- Kedelai/ ekstrak susu
- Niasinamid
Peningkatan turn over kulit :
- Asam glikolat
- Asam laktat
- Asam linoleat
- Asam retinoid
- Liquitrin
31. VITAMIN E
• Antioksidan utama yg melindungi terhadap
peroksidasi lipid
• Bekerja dgn melindungi PUFA pd membran sel
• Menghambat agregasi trombosit
32.
33.
34. VITAMIN C
• Membantu regenerasi vitamin E
• Menghambat tirosinase: berinteraksi dgn ion
Cu pd tirosinase
• Merangsang sintesis kolagen: kofaktor enzim
pd sintesis kolagen & menghambat MMP
• Menghambat sintesis elastin
• Sediaan: 5%-20%
35.
36.
37.
38.
39. Stamford NP. Stability, transdermal penetration, and cutaneous effects of ascorbic acid and its derivatives. J Cosmet Dermatol.
2012 Dec;11(4):310-7. doi: 10.1111/jocd.12006.
40. Lee WJ, Kim SL, Choe YS, Jang YH, Lee SJ, Kim do W. Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate Regulates the Expression of Inflammatory
Biomarkers in Cultured Sebocytes. Ann Dermatol. 2015 Aug;27(4):376-82. doi: 10.5021/ad.2015.27.4.376.
41. Burke KE. Interaction of vitamins C and E as better cosmeceuticals. Dermatol Ther. 2007 Sep-Oct;20(5):314-21.
42. Burke KE. Interaction of vitamins C and E as better cosmeceuticals. Dermatol Ther. 2007 Sep-Oct;20(5):314-21.
43. Stamford NP. Stability, transdermal penetration, and cutaneous effects of ascorbic acid and its derivatives. J Cosmet Dermatol.
2012 Dec;11(4):310-7. doi: 10.1111/jocd.12006.
44. Stamford NP. Stability, transdermal penetration, and cutaneous effects of ascorbic acid and its derivatives. J Cosmet Dermatol.
2012 Dec;11(4):310-7. doi: 10.1111/jocd.12006.