HERBAL DRUG TECHNOLOGY Herbal Cosmetics Sources and description of raw materials of herbal origin used via, fixed oils, waxes, gums colours, perfumes, protective agents, bleaching agents, antioxidants in products such as skin care, hair care and oral hygiene products.

1. HERBAL COSMETICS
M.SAKTHIGANAPATHI.,M.Pharm.,PGDCA.,Ph.D
ASSISTANT PROFESSOR,
DEPARTMENT OF PHARMACOGNOSY,
SCHOOL OF PHARMACY,
SRI BALAJI VIDYAPEETH UNIVERSITY,
PUDUCHERRY.

2. Definition: Cosmetics
• The word cosmetics derives from the Greek words:
• “Kosmetikē tekhnē”- meaning “technique of dress
and ornament”.
• “Kosmētikos”- meaning “skilled in ordering or
arranging”.
• “Kosmos“ - meaning "order" and "ornament“.
• Cosmetics are constituted from a mixture of
chemical compounds derived from either natural
sources, or synthetically created ones.

3. INDIA : Drugs and Cosmetics Act, 1940
• Cosmetic is defined under section 3(aaa) of the
Drugs and Cosmetics Act, 1940 as, any article
intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled or
sprayed on, or introduced into, or otherwise
applied to, the human body or any part thereof for
cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness or
altering the appearance, and includes any article
intended for use as a component of cosmetic.

4. USA : Food and Drug Administration (FDA)
• Cosmetics as products "intended to be applied to
the human body for cleansing, beautifying,
promoting attractiveness, or altering the
appearance without affecting the body's structure
or functions". This broad definition includes any
material intended for use as an ingredient of a
cosmetic product, with the FDA specifically
excluding pure soap from this category.

5. HERBAL COSMETICS :
The products having desirable physiological
properties like healing, enhancement of
appearance, and conditioning properties due to the
herbal ingredients present in them are called
herbal cosmetics.

6. SKIN CARE PRODUCTS :
Herbal Creams :
1. Cold Cream
2. Vanishing Cream
3. Nourishing Cream
4. Night Cream
5. Moisturiser Cream
6. Anti-Acne Cream
7. Sunscreen Cream
8. Anti-Wrinkle Cream
9. Fairness Cream
Herbal Powders:
1. Talcum Powder
2. Body Powder
3. After-Shave Powder
4. Baby Powder

7. SKIN CARE PRODUCTS :
Herbal Face Washes :
1. Gentle Face Wash
2. All Skin Type Face Wash
Herbal Face Packs
Herbal Lip Balms
Herbal Soaps

8. COLD CREAM:
Cold creams are water-in-oil emulsion (w/o), and
the bases used in their preparation are:
a) Almond oil and white bees wax, and
b) Borax (as emulsifier) and rose water

9. VANISHING CREAM :
These are oil -in-water emulsion (o/w), and are
hardly visible when applied to skin.
They impart moisturizing as well as emollient
effect.

10. NOURISHING CREAM :
These creams are non -greasy, and provide
nourishment as well as protection to the skin.

11. NIGHT CREAM :
These creams are applied during night. They
consist of revitalizers, moisturizers, and skin-
rejuvenating nutrients. Night creams prevent
evaporation and moisturize the skin.

12. MOISTURISER CREAM :
These creams are applied on dry skin as they heal
and repair dry skin, and maintain the softness of
skin. They maintain skin hydration by reducing
evaporation.

13. ANTI-ACNE CREAM :
These creams are applied on the skin surface, and
mainly act on hair follicles and sebaceous glands.

14. SUNSCREEN CREAM :
These creams are used topically to protect the skin
from harmful effects of sunrays.
They act either by scattering the sunlight or by
absorbing the erythematous rays of sun.

15. ANTI-WRINKLE CREAM :
These creams are used for delaying wrinkles and
reducing the already present fine lines. On using
regularly, these creams prevent oxidative damage
of skin.

16. FAIRNESS CREAM :
These creams reduce melanin formation as well as
skin pigmentation.

17. HERBAL POWDERS :
A range of herbal powders are available in the market
such as
1. Dusting powder
2. Talcum powder
3. Body powder
4. After-bath powder
5. After-shave powder
6. Baby powder.
A minor difference exists among the formulations
Therefore, these powders are considered same to some
extent.

19. HERBAL FACE WASH:
These are used to remove dirt, dust and other debris
adhered to the facial skin. These preparations also have
antiseptic as well as antimicrobial properties.
Depending on the need and skin type of consumers,
different types of face washes are formulated:
i. Gentle Face Washes: These are used for mild
cleansing and are applied very gently on the face.
Daily use of these face washes protects the skin
against dust, dirt, and pollutants.
ii. All Skin Type Face Washes: These are formulated
without any soap and thus can be used on daily basis
for almost all skin types.

21. HERBAL FACE PACK :
These formulations are applied on face to
stimulate blood circulation in facial region, provide
muscle toning, make the facial skin supple and
elastic, and clean clogged skin pores by removing
impurities.

22. HERBAL LIP BALM :
These are used on lips to prevent them from
cracking, chapping and drying. Edible ingredients
should be used in the formulation of lip balms.
They also contain ingredients that act as natural
filter to UV rays and vitamin E to provide
nourishment and softness.

23. HERBAL SOAP :
These are used for cleansing the body. Soaps are
generally made up of a mixture of fatty acids
sequestered by alkali metals. The basic fatty acids
used in the formulation of soaps are triglycerides
such as tallow, coconut oil, or palm oil.

24. HAIR CARE PRODUCTS :
Herbal Hair Gel
Herbal Shampoo
Herbal Hair Conditioner
Herbal Hair Oil

25. HERBAL HAIR GEL :
These are used for hair styling as they make hair
manageable, easy to handle, and reduce their
tendency to fly.

26. HERBAL SHAMPOO :
These are used for cleaning hair. Various herbal
shampoos, containing a unique blend of natural
ingredients, are available in the market as per the
requirement of consumer and type of hair.

27. HERBAL HAIR COLOUR :
These are used to cover-up grey hair or as a style
statement. Herbal hair colours are prepared by
boiling the leaves of desirable herb in water.
The resultant mixture is left undisturbed for a few
hours, and then strained to remove the leaves.
Lastly, alcohol and perfume are added.
Metallic salts are added to produce a range of
colours with henna.

29. HERBAL HAIR CONDITIONER :
These preparations are used to condition the hair
by moisturizing them properly. If water is directly
applied on hair for moisturizing, no effect is
observed as the water evaporates.
This problem can be overcome by using w/o
emulsion as its aqueous component moisturizes
the hair and the lipid component locks the
moisture and prevents evaporation.

31. HERBAL HAIR OIL :
These preparations provide nourishment to the
scalp and hair roots, as well as impart a lustrous
texture to hair.

32. ORAL HYGIENE PRODUCTS :
Oral hygiene Products are intended to cleanse the
oral cavity, freshen the breath, and maintain good
oral hygiene. Some products also include
ingredients to protect against the formation of
cavities.
i. Toothpaste
ii. Tooth Powder
iii. Mouthwash
iv. Gargles

33. TOOTHPASTE :
These serve dual purpose; firstly, they remove
stains from the teeth, and secondly, they freshen
up breath and mouth.

34. TOOTH POWDER :
These are considered to be forerunner of
toothpastes; however, they are now losing
popularity. Tooth powders are mixtures of dental
abrasives, flavoring agents, sweetening agents, and
foaming agents.

35. MOUTHWASHE :
These are flavored liquids used for rinsing the oral
cavity after brushing and flossing.

36. GARGLES :
These are medicated aqueous preparations used
for treating pharyngitis, laryngitis, and any other
throat infections.
Gargles are diluted before use. They should never
be swallowed but should be spitted out after
rinsing the oral cavity.

38. Sources and description of the following raw materials of
herbal origin used in formulating herbal cosmetics are
discussed below:
1. Fixed oils
2. Waxes
3. Colours
4. Perfumes
5. Protective agents
6. Bleaching agents
7. Antioxidants
8. Surfactants
9. Preservatives.
SOURCES AND DESCRIPTION OF RAW
MATERIALS OF HERBAL ORIGIN USED
IN HERBAL COSMETICS

39. FIXED OILS :
Oils are derived from vegetable and mineral
sources, and are used in cosmetics.
Examples of vegetable oils are almond oil, arachis
oil, castor oil, olive oil and coconut oil.
Examples of mineral oils are light and heavy
paraffin.

40. Almond Oil: It is a fixed oil obtained by expressing the
seeds of Prunus amygdalus (family Rosaceae). It is pale
yellow in colour and has a characteristic odour. The
active principles of almond oil are the mixture of
glycoside with oleic acid, linoleic acid, myristic acid, and
palmitic acid. Due to its emollient action, it is used in
the preparation of creams and lotions.
Arachis Oil: It is a fixed oil obtained from the seeds of
Arachis hypogea (family Leguminosae). It is pale yellow
in colour and has a faint nutty odour. Refined arachis oil
is colourless, and its active principles include oleic acid,
linoleic acid, and a small number of other acids. At 3°C,
it turns cloudy, and at a lower temperature, it solidifies.
Arachis oil is used in the preparation of hair oils and
brilliantines.

41. Castor Oil: It is obtained from the seeds of Ricinus
communis (Family :Euphorbiaceae). It is either yellow
in colour or colourless and has a slight odour. Castor oil
consists of a mixture of glycosides, in which 80% of
ricinoleic acid is the major constituent. At 0°C, it forms
a clear liquid. Due to its emollient action, it is used in
the preparation of lipsticks, hair oils, creams, and
lotions.
Olive Oil: It is obtained from the fruits of Olea europea
(family Oleaceae). It is either pale yellow or greenish
yellow in colour, and has a slight odor. Olive oil consists
of glycerides of oleic, palmitic, linoleic, stearic and
myristic acids. At low temperature, it gets solidified or
partially solidified. Due to its emollient action and
soothing properties, it is used in the preparation of
creams, lotions, and bath oils.

42. Coconut Oil: It is obtained from the dried solid part of
the endosperm of coconut, i.e., Cocos nucifera (family
Palmae). It exists as a white or pearl - white unctuous
mass in winter and colourless in summer.
Light Liquid Paraffin: It consists of a mixture of
hydrocarbons and appears as a colourless and
odourless oily liquid. Its viscosity and weight per ml
(0.83-0.87gm) are low. Due to its better spread ability,
it is used in the preparation of bath oils, hair oils,
brilliantines, lotions, and creams.
Heavy Liquid Paraffin: It is obtained from petroleum. It
is a mixture of hydrocarbons, and appears as a
colourless and odourless oily liquid. Due to its soothing
effect on the skin, it is used in the preparation of
creams, lotions, brilliantines, hair oils, and bath oils.

43. WAXES :
Waxes are the esters formed by the condensation
of high molecular weight straight chain fatty acids
with high molecular weight.
They are used as a base in cosmetics, along with
oils and fats. Some commonly used waxes are:

44. Beeswax: It is a purified wax separated from the
honeycomb of bees, Apis mellifera (family Apidae). It is
composed of 70% myricyl palmitate ester. It is a
yellowish brown coloured solid with honey like odour.
Under cold conditions, it turns brittle; and on
bleaching, it becomes a yellowish-white solid with faint
characteristic odour. Its melting point is 62-65°C.
Beeswax helps in water incorporation to form an
emulsion.
Carnauba Wax: It is obtained from the leaves of the
Brazilian wax palm, Copernica cerifera (family Palmae).
It is available in various grades, with the highest grade
existing as light -brown to pale -yellow in colour. It
occurs as moderately coarse powder or flakes with a
characteristic bland odour. Its melting point ranges
from 81 -86°C. Carnauba wax is hard and is used in the
manufacture of candles, wax varnishes, and leather and
furniture polishes.

45. Paraffin Wax: It is obtained by the distillation of
petroleum. It is a mixture of solid hydrocarbons,
mainly containing n-paraffins, and their isomers to
some extent. Thus, it is also called hard paraffin
wax. It is colourless, odourless, or a white,
translucent, wax -like solid, and is slightly greasy to
touch. Its melting point ranges from 50-57°C.
Spermaceti: It is a solid wax obtained from the
head, blubber and ear case of the sperm whale,
Physeter catodon (family Physeteridae). It consists
of cetyl palmitate and cetyl myristate spermaceti in
a solid wax, which is a translucent crystalline,
pearly-white, unctuous mass with a slight odour
and taste. It melts at a specific gravity of about
0.94.

46. Spermaceti is also available synthetically and
consists of a mixture of esters of saturated fatty
alcohols and saturated fatty acids. Synthetic
spermaceti occurs as white to off white translucent
flakes with a crystalline structure and a pearly
lustre. Its melting point ranges from 43-47°C.

47. COLOURS :
Humans are using colours in cosmetics since ancient
times. The desire to buy a cosmetic product is controlled
by three senses, i.e., sight, touch, and smell. Thus, colour
is an important ingredient of cosmetic formulations.
Some commonly used natural colours in cosmetics are:
Cochineal: It is a red dyestuff obtained from the dried
female insect, Dactylopius coccus (family Coccidae).
The main colouring consti tuent in cochineal is carminic
acid, which forms red needles on crystallisation; these
needles darken at 130°C and carbonise at 250°C.
Cochineal is extracted with water, and alum is added to
this solution to precipitate carmine lake (the red
aluminium salt).

48. Saffron: It is the stigmas and tops of the styles of
the plant, Crocus sativus (family Iridaceae). It is a
perennial plant grown in Jammu and Kashmir.
Saffron powder is yellowish and easily soluble in
water, thus is used as flavouring and colouring
agent in food preparations. It consists of a few
carotenoids, of which crocin is an important natural
saffron carotenoid. Picrocrocin is a colourless bitter
glycoside that imparts a characteristic odour to
saffron.
Chlorophyll: It is the natural green pigment
abundantly found in nature. It is responsible for
photosynthesis.

49. PERFUMES :
Some commonly used perfuming agents in cosmetics are:
Rose: It is obtained by steam distillation of the flower
petals of Rosmarinus officinalis (family Labiatae). For
obtaining rose oil, the blossoms (before they open) are
collected a little before sunrise.
Jasmine Essential Oil: It is obtained from the flowers of
Jasminum grandiflorum (family Oleaceae). For
obtaining jasmine oil, solvent extraction method is
used. It is used in perfumery industries.
Lavender Oil: It is obtained from the flowers and stalk
of Lavandula officinalis (family Labiatae).
Tuberose Oil: It is obtained from Epimedium
acuminatum (also known as mistress of the night). Its
oil is a brown, viscous liquid with a sweet, heavy and
sensuous scent.

50. Geranium Oil: It is obtained by distillation of the
flowers, leaves and stalks of Pelargonium
graveolens (family Geraniaceae).
Champa Oil: It is obtained from the flowers of
Michelia champaca.
Cinnamon Oil: It is obtained from the different
parts of cinnamon tree, i.e., leaves, barks, and roots
of Cinnamon zeylanicum (Family: Lauraceae). The
oil obtained from the bark is of utmost value, and
has a warm, spicy and sweet character.
Neroli Oil: It is an essential oil obtained by
distillation of the flowers of bitter orange tree. It
can be stored in amber-coloured bottles under
refrigeration.

51. ANTIOXIDANTS :
Natural antioxidants (like tocopherols), present in
fats and oils, are destroyed during the refining
process. Hence, antioxidants should be essentially
added in cosmetics to avoid the rancidity of fats and
oils due to oxidative deterioration.

52. Tamarind: Tamarindus indica (family Fabaceae) is
widely grown in tropical regions. Tamarind seeds
exhibit radical scavenging, anti -microbial and lipid
peroxidation reducing activities. Due to its
antioxidant activity, tamarind is added in anti-
wrinkle cosmetics.
Vitamin C: It prevents free r adical damage by
donating free radicals. It boosts up the immune
system. Carrots, peaches, sweet potatoes, oranges,
broccoli, etc. are the major sources of vitamin C.
Vitamin E: It is known as scavenger of free radicals.
It is beneficial against certain types of cancer and
cardiac problems. Almonds, nuts, whole cereal
grains, vegetable oils, etc. are the major sources of
vitamin E.

53. Pomegranate: The extract of pomegranate plant,
Punica granatum, exhibit antioxidant and antiviral
properties, and enhance the Effectiveness of topical
sunscreens. Pomegranate seed oil exhibit chemo
preventive activity against skin cancer. Pomegranate
peel extracts foster dermal regeneration. Pomegranate
seed oil fractions facilitate epidermal regeneration.
Resveratrol: It is a polyphenolic phytoalexin compound,
present in the skin and seeds of grapes, berries,
peanuts, and other foods. It is a potent antioxidant,
anti-inflammatory, and anti-proliferative agent. It has
been found to prevent skin cancer and other conditions
generated by the sun.
Ferulic Acid: It is a potent antioxidant that provides
photoprotection to skin, and is thus added in
sunscreens, cosmetic lotions, and other skin products.
It is also believed to act synergistically with vitamins C
and E and β-carotene.

54. PROTECTIVE AGENTS :
Silicones are added as protective agents in the
formulation of creams. Silicones combined with
other barrier agents, like petroleum jelly beeswax,
paraffin, etc., can formulate excellent barrier
creams.

55. BLEACHING AGENTS :
Silicones are added as protective agents in the
formulation of creams. Silicones combined with
other barrier agents, like petroleum jelly beeswax,
paraffin, etc., can formulate excellent barrier
creams.