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2. A Handbookof
COSMETICS
. B.M. MITIIAL
M.Pharm., Ph.D., MRPharmS
Professor of Pharmacy & Deputy Director
and
N.N. SAI{A
M.Pharm., Ph.D.
Professor of Pharmacy
and Group Leader (Head)
Birla Institute of Technolory and Science,
PII"ANI, India
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3. rsBN 8r-8573r-22-5
VPBN 48
First Edition 2000
Reprint 2003
Reprint 2004
Reprint 2005
Reprint 2006
@2000by authorsandpublishers
All rights reserved. No pad and style of this book be repro-
ducedor transmitted,
in any form, or by anymeans---€lectronic,
mechanical,
photocopying,
recordingor otheiwise,without prior
permission
of thepublishers
andauthors.
Publishedby
M K Jainfor VALLABH PRAKASHAN
AP-53A,Pitampura,
DELHI-110088
Phone:.27317755
e-mail: vallabh@vsnl.com
Rs 125 (in Delhi)
Rs 130 (outsideDelhi)
Printed at
Nerv Gyan Offset Printers, Delhi
Preface
A thought to bring out a Handbook of Cosmetics has been in the
mind since 1950 when one of the authors (BMM) started teaching a
course on Perfume and Cosmetics to the B.Pharm. studentsof the then
Birla College, Pilani. The course was discontinued from 1964 when
Birla Institute of Technology and Science was for.med. However, a
course named, 'Cosmetic Science' has been reintroduced.Importanceof
the book on Cosmeticshas been felt ever since. In the last 20 yearsor so
the use of cosmeticshas been continuously increasing so much so that
many colleges/universitieshave introduced courses in cosmetics. This
book intends to provide a hand book on cosmetics which may be
introducedin colleges.
The cosmetic products are classified and arrangedaccording to their
site of application and function. Though a general manufacturingproce-
dure is given but for special type of products, specific and separate
procedure is also given. Basic aspectsof quality control and evaluation
of products are also mentioned in each chapter.
There is in the market good literature already existing. The subject
matter is mainly from the studentangle, and it is hoped that it rvill fulfil
that purpose besidesproviding handy literature to anyone interestedin
the design and manufactureof cosmetics. Any suggestionby the readers
will be appreciated.
The authors express sincere gratitude to Mr C. Sreekhar of the
Pharmacy Group for proof reading and Mr Sharwan Kumar Vajpayee,
Deputy Director's Office for help in word processingthe manuscript.
Pilani
13April 2000
B.M. Mithal
R.N. Saha
(iii)

4. Contents
Preface
1. Cosmetics-An Introduction
2. The Skin
3. Powdersand Compacts
4. Skin Colorants
5. Skin Creafns
6. SunscreenPreparations
7. Hair
8. Hair CleansingPreparations
9. Hair Tonics
10. Hair Colorants
11. Hair Grooming Aids
12. Hair Wavers, Curlers and Straighteners
13. Hair Removers
14. Shaving Preparations
15. Nail
16. Nail Lacquersand Removers
17. Auxiliary Productsfor Nails
18. Tooth and Oral Cavity
19. Dental Care Preparations
20. Mouthwashes
lll
1
I
1l
2l
39
6l
90
105
110
r22
r28
I4l
152
161
r69
118
r82
r93
199
203
216
225
APPENDIX-I : Provisions of Drugs and Cosmetics Act
applicable to Cosmetics
APPENDIX-II : Most OftenUsedIngredienrs
of Cosmetics 231
APPENDTX-III:Bibliography 239
APPENDIX-IV: Model Questions 239
SUBJECT INDEX
(v)
255

5. CHAPTER-1
An Introduction
The word 'cosmetics' arises from a Greek wotd 'kosmeticos' which
meansto adorn. Since that time any material used for beautification or
improvement of appearanceis known as cosmetic. The urge to adorn
one's own body and look beautiful has been an urge in the human race
since the firibal days. Earlier both males and females were equal
competitors for improvement of appearance. Males decorated them-
selves with animal parts and vegetableleavesetc. while women did so
by wearing any coloured stones or, flowers round their neck and the
wrists. At a later stage they employed coloured earth for faces and
bodies and still later colouredointrnents. Banglesand necklaces
made
of baked earth also becamecommon in the early civilization as well as
shells of various kinds obtained from nature. In digging up ancient
Egyptiantombs much light has fallen on the ancientpracticesof beauti-
fication. Pharaohiantombs have revealedthat coloured earthswere like
malachite green. The copper ore was used as eye shadows. Lamp black
was commo,ntoo for eyes. For dyeing of hairs red was also practised.
The dancing ladies applied ointmentsperfumedwith materialslike myrrh
to head so that when they danced the perfumed ointment would flow
down their bodies emitting pleasant smell all over. 'I'he history also
recordsthat when Jehu went to the town of Jezebelshe painted her face
and looked out from window. The use of cosmetics in ancient Egypt
reachedheights with the famous queen Cleopatra who tried to beguile
Caesarand Antony the Romans when they visited Egypt. Shakespeare
has summarized it by this line, "Had Cleopatra'snose been lgnger, the
shapeof the world would have beendifferent." The women of the world
feel inspired when they have a mental feeling that they are looking good'
Hence, the practice of adornmentor improvement of appearancecontin-
ued unabated across the centuries. Various kinds of natural materials
were used for the purpose. The practice of use of cosmeticsmust have
grown to an appreciableextent becausethe British Parliamentenacteda
Law in 1770, which still standsunrepealedand is as follows;

6. A HANDBOOKOF COSMETICS
"That all women of whatever age, rank, professionor degreewhether
virgins, maids or widows that shall from and after such Act impose
upon, seduce and betray into matrimony any of His Majesty's sub-
jects by the scents,paints, cosmetics, washes,artificial teeth, false
hair, Spanish.wool, iron stays, hoops, high heeled shoes,bolstered
hips, shall incur the penalty of law in force against witchcraft and
like misdemeanoursand that such marriage upon conviction shall
stand null and void."
It is interesting to note that even materials like high heeled shoes,
artificial denture etc. are classedas materials of adomment. One won-
ders how many femaleswere so prosecutedand their marriagesnullified.
It was an act of distinction between male and female subject5. Maybe
the circumstancesprevailing then were such that law was considered
essential.
In modern days cosmetics are the rage and are considered to be
essentialcommodities of life. The role of cosmeticsin everyday life met
greater acceptability after World War II. It was realized by social and
medical scientiststhat cosmetics not only adore but they exercisepsy-
chological effect on usersand specially on the skin. They keep the skin
supple delaying the onset of wrinkling. They are also helpful in skin
infections and prevention of sunburns.
In the last 3-4 decades the use of cosmetics has increased
exponentially not only among in females but the male population also
indulges in their use. Hair dyes, powders, crearnsare as popular with
males as with females. Most countries have now laws to control,
manufacture, labelling, sale etc. of cosmeticsin such a way that use of
cosmeticsharmful to health is prevented. In India Drugs Act has been
renamed as Drugs and Cosmetics Act and contains some sections to
exercisecontrol over cosmetics.
The cosmetics in general are external preparations and are meant to
be applied to external parts of the body. In other words they may be
applied to skin, hair and nails for the purposesof covering, colouring,
softening, cleansing,nourishing,waving, setting,mollification, preserva-
tion, removal and protection. The cosmetics may be classified into 4
main groups namely-
(l) Cosmeticsfor Skin
(2) Cosmeticsfor Hair
(3) Cosmeticsfor Nails
(4) Cosmeticsfor Hygiene (Dental, Bathing, etc.)
Creams Lotions Colourants
tl
I'
I Lipsticks
' Rouges
Skinlotions
Astringent
lotions
Vanisfing
creams
Coldcreams
Allpurpose
creams
Hailremover
Depilatories
Epilatories
Shaving
prep.
Lacquers
Laquer
removers
Nail
polishes
Cuticle
removers
Hairwaveprep Shampoos Eyelashprep
Hairdressing Dyes Mascaras
Hairconditioner Hairlotions Eyebrowpencils
Dandruff
lotions Kohls
Ch.I AN INTRODUCTION 3
All cosmetics
areformulated
assolids,semi-solids
or liquids. Their
formuladesignis very akin to drugdosage
forms.
Skin Hair Nall
cosilETtcs
I
Powders
compacts
Face powders
and compacts,
Body powders,
Pricklyheat
powoers,
Face pack
Fig. l-l Classification
of cosmetics
Cosmetics for the Skin
The skin coversvast areaof body and cosmeticsare applied to many
parts,
-the
most important part being the face. The skin cosmetics are
formulated in the form of solids, semi-solids and liquids. The solids
consist of powderswith different degreesof flow and angle of reposeor
of compacts. The semi-solids may be emulsions or simple admixtures
and liquids are both monophasic and biphasic. The solid products
consist of face powders, body powders,compactsand moulded products
like lipsticks. Face powders which are applied to the face consist of
many ingredients besides covering agents like zinc oxide or titanium
dioxide. They remove oily appearanceand give the face a smooth, dry
and peach-like finish. The face powders as per their covering power are
classihed as light, mediurn or heavy powders. Some face powers are
slightly tinted on the pink side. Face powders are packed in elegant
plastic boxes with lids.

7. 4 6 HANDBOOK
oF COSMETICS
The other category of powders consist of body powders or talcum
powders which are applied to various parts of the body as well asto face
and possess
a good degreeofslip or spreadability. The quantity ofbody
powdersconsurnedeachyear is very high in comparisonto face powders
and other cosmetics. In thesepowdersparticle size is very small and all
powders have large amounts of additives which provide and form the
baseof the powder.
The compactsare round cakesof facepowdersgenerally with a slight
pinkish tint. They are applied with a matching piece of fabric which is
packed along with it. The compacts are prepared by compressionof
face powders containing some binders like mucilage of gums, soapsetc.
and for application the piece of fabric is rubbed on the compactand then
applied to the face as per needs. They are mounted in rcund casesone
side of which is a mirror.
In addition to compacts, 'Cake Make ups' have also been patented.
Such cakes are dry and applied with a rnoistenedpad. They contain
some oily/waxy components (l to 25Yo),pigments (about l0%), fillers
and water-solubledispersingagents(l-13%). The fillers are talc, chalk,
etc. The sameare applied with a moistenedpad. They are preparedby
granulation followed by compression.
Sorne 'liquid powders' have also been marketed as replacementfor
powdersto whiten the shoulders,neck etc. for dances. phenazonewas at
one time used for this (20% solution) tinted with a water-soluble dye.
But use of phenazoneon skin has raised eyes of dermatologists,their
application is also a handicap. Hence, liquid powders carneinto vogue.
These are prepared with addition of glycerine (15%) to a face powder
base consisting of chalk, zinc oxide etc. They also contain aboul 600/o
water and viscosity is imparted by 0.5%o
of rnethylcellulose. The colours
may be shadesof red, yellow or brown pigments.
An important category of skin cosmetics are the colouring agents
which are used generally for coloration of lips, cheeks, eyelids (eye
shadows)and mascarasfor eyelashesand eyebrow pencils. In colorants,
lipsticks are used by masseswhile other products are used very select-
ively. Lipsticks impart an attractive colour and looks to the lips. Lips
can also be made to look wider or narrower if it is applied intelligently
and artistically. The basewhich is coloured to produce lipsticks consists
of a judicious blend of oily and waxy materials, the important ones
being beeswax,carnaubawax, ceresin,paraffin wax, vaseline,etc. The
formula of each individual manufacturervaries. Some lipsticks include
some zinc oxide (2oh) or titanium oxide (l%) to impart some covering
Ch.l AN INTRODUCTION 5
power. Most lipsticks are prepared by moulding. To give a glossy
finish they may be exposed momentarily to small flame for the material
to melt and set quickly. This is said to impart glossy finish.
Next important category of colouring preparations are the rouges
which are generally applied to cheeksto make them look rosy since rosy
cheeks are considered to be indicators of good health. Rouges are
marketed as solid compacts or as wax, anhydrous or hydrous creams and
also as liquids. Compacts containing binders are preparedby compres-
sion or moulding. Generally soaps of ammonia-stearicacid and starch
are used. The colours have to be certified colours only under Drugs &
CosmeticsAct. In rouges an opaque baseis more desirable' The bases
may contain about 5Vozinc oxide for imparting opacity.
In cream-typerouges the anhydrous ones are preparedby vaseline,
kaolin etc. The creamrougesmay be vanishing or cold cream type. The
liquid rougesare not very popular but all the sameare marketedto some
extent. They fre prepared in mucilaginous solutions of hydrocolloids
like methylcellulose (2%) in water td which colour, preservatives,
perfumesetc., besideswetting agentsare added.
The other coloured products are mainly for the areas of the eye
amongstwhich commonly usedproducts are:
( 1) Mascaras(eyelashes)
(2) Eyeshadows(for eyelids)
(3) Eyebrow pencils (for outline of eyebrows)
(4) Kohls (eyelid inside)
Mascaras are used for darkening and increasing apparent length of
the eyelashesso asto increasebrightnessand expressiveness
ofthe eyes.
Mascaras are marketed as cakes, creams or liquids. These products
should be evenly applicable, should be non-sticking, should dry rapidly
and be absolutely non-irritant and non-toxic. The colours used are bone
black, carbon black or oil black. Fine powders of silver and aluminium
are also used though the sameare costly now.
The most important and popular category of skin cosmetics are the
various kinds of creamsrandmilks. The first cream in the world is said
to have been prepared by Galen in Rome for the royal ladies of the
Roman Empire. It was a'beeswax-boraxtype. It was a superiorproduct
to the perfumed ointments which were applied until then. The water in
the cream improved its elegance,application and also had cooling effect.
Nowadays there is a plethora of formulae for creams and milks, all of
which are emulsion type. The creams and milks are mostly o/w type
products,but somew/o type productsare also there' They are vanishing

8. 6 A HANDBOOK
OFCOSMETICS
(l) Cold creams
(2) Cleansing creams
(3) Cleansingmilks
(4) Cleansing lotions
(5) Vanishing creams
(6) Foundation creams
(7) Emollient creams
(8) Skin conditioning creams
(9) AII purposecreams
(10) Moisturizing creams
Sunburn Protection and Skin Tanning preparations
Exposureof body to sunlight in moderateamounts may be beneficial
but excessiveexposurecausesdamageto various extents. It may cause:
(l) Irritability and depression
(2) Inflammation
(3) Sepsis
(4) Malignant growth
(5) Movement of melanin from baselayer to stratum corneum
(6) Releaseof dilators causing erythrema
(7) Sunburnsand skin diseases
Ultraviolet part of sunraysis held to be most detrirnentalfor the skin.
should be non-toxic, effectively absorb or reflect erythemogenic light
without undergoing chemical change, must not decomposeii
'roisture
and perspirationand should not be absorbedthrough skin.
The sunscreenpreparations are marketed as oir, lotions, powders,
cfeams or only as solutions of dyes. Sunscreensalso speed up skin
Ch.I AN INTRODUCTION 7
tanning. Westernpeopleor peoplewith light skinslike their skinsto
look slightly'tanned. Increased
tanningis also believedto take place
after ingestionof somematerialslike methoxsalen
or extractsof Anmi
magus.
Hair Preparations
Hair preparations
may be functionally categorized
into:
(l) Preparations
for dressing
andsettingofhair
(2) Preparations
for cleansing
(3) Tonics
(4) Preparations
for hair removal
(5) Preparations
for colouring
(6) Preparations
for applicationto areaslike eyebrows,eyelids,
eitherfor colouringor upkeep.
The hair dressing
includesbrilliantines
ashelpsin combingof hair,
hair waveproducts,hair settingandfixing prodiicts. Themostimportant
hair dressing
usedin Indiais the hair oil basedon vegetable
or mineral
oils occasionally
claimingto containherbals. Brilliantinesare wrxy
havingpreparations
consistency
of vaselines. Hair creamswhich are
emulsions
aremorecommondressings
in thewestern
world.
Curly hair probablylooksmoreattractirle
thanstraight. Earlierhair
waving lvas achievedby hot iron or boiling in water. These gave
permanent
curls. Thenwavingwasdoneby chemicalcomponents
like
ammonium
hydroxidewith borax.
Many thiol compounds
have also beensuggested
for waving hair.
Reducingagentsare also saidto be helpful. Thesedayscold waving
methods
are morecommonlike pin perms,rollersetc. Somereducing
lotionsmay also beused.
'
Shampooswhich are meant for cleansingof hair and scalp are
becomingvery popularin placeof soapsusedearlierfor the purpose.
With the adventof syntheticdetergents,
particularlythe non-ionictype,
therehasbeena boomin shampoos.Most shampoos
areclearliquids.
But now creamandsolid shampoos
arealsoavailable.
Hair Tonics aresuspicious
products
in theeyesof public,scientific
aswell asnon-scientific,
because
of theword 'tonics'. Thepreparations
underthisgroupincludesomeperfumes
for application
to hairassprays,
someglossening
agents,
preparations
for dandruff,seborrhoea,
baldness
etc. Many productsareadvertisedasgrowth promotersbut suchclaims
aresuspiciously
lookedupon.

9. 8 A HANDBOOK
OFCOSMETICS
Hair Removers consistof depils and epils which remove the un-
wanted hair by dissolution of hair shafts or help it in pulling out.
Shaving creamswhich assistin hair removal by blades/ra"o., by soften-
ing the hair shaft of faces in males may also be distantly classified in
this group.
Hair Dyes have become very common. Somehow grey hair has
been associatedwith old age. Nobody likes the black hair to turn grey
on his or her head and many people continuouslyuse hair dyes for
The preparations used on eyebrows, eyelashesand eyelids are very
special products. The trade in them is of a very small order.
Cosmeticsfor Nails
The nails, in particular the nail plates of the fingers of hands and
feet, have been subjectsof decoration. The main decorationis in terms
of shine or colour. The shineor polish is done by applicationof sorne
alrasive rnaterialslike stannicoxide or powderedsilica and rubbing with
a chamois leather. wax porisheswith abrasivesare arso
"orrroon.
Th"
most popular nail dressingis the coloured nair lacquersor polishes
which give a coloured coating to the nail plates. Generally they consist
of nitro celluloses,plasticizers,solventsand colours.
The nail polishesor lacquersshouldbe finely groundto distributethe
dye and shouldhave hardness
and plasticity. corour shouldnot alter on
keeping and when appried. Even drying shourdtaiie pracewithin a few
minutes.
Enamel Removers have also come into market. They consist of
mainly solvent capable of nitrocellulosedissolution. They may be
marketedas such or as creams.
Nail creams are in fashiontoo. They are appriedto brittrenails.
Cold, vanishing or all purposecrealltscan also be applied. :
Nail Bleaches are employed to remove stainsof tobaccoor other
stains by oxidation or reductitrn: For oxidation hydrogen peroxide,
chlorine compounds;perboratesor peroxidesare used. For reduction
sulphiteswith dilute acid'aresuitable.,
Ch;I AN INTRODUCTION 9
Nail White products are used for giving white edges. They are
marketed as pastes or creams containing zinc oxide, titanium oxide,
kaolin, colloidal silica etc.
Cuticle Removers are used for beautifiing nails and are available
in market. The sheddingof outer deadcells by skin gives some grooves
around nails which detractthe nail beauty. These are removableby use
of alkaline solutions in water by small plugs of cotton, Potassium
hydroxide is best for this purpose.
Dental and Oral Care Preparations
Suchproductsare normally consideredas hygienic productsbut since
appearance
ofteeth and good breathare consideredto be overall ingredi-
ent of a cosmeticpersonality,all kinds of products for cleansingof teeth
and mouth washes are generally formulated and marketed by cosmetic
companies. For design of such products one must be familiar with tooth
and gum structures. The teeth are the grinders located at the point of
entry of food matbrials in the body. The food which is being cut or
chewed by the teeth, its small particlesget lodged into variousjunctions
between the teeth and between teeth and gums. These food crumbs if
not removed regularly may become pockets for microbes to grow.
Hence their dislodgement and removal is very essentialfor the safety,
longevity and appearanceof the teeth. Historically teeth were cleaned
by use of stems of some trees. The fibres of stems provided abrasive
action and trees like Neem had antisepticelementsalso. Messwah was
another such tree popular in India. The common tooth ailments are
tartar accumulation, gingivitis, dental caries and other minor kinds of
dental eating away by bacteria. So any product, paste,cake or powder
must have abrasiveand antisepticaction besidesgood taste,flavour etc.
and medication, if necessary. The common types of dental preparations
are:
(l) Tooth pastes
(2) Tooth powders
(3) Dentifrices
The tooth pastesand powders are similar in composition except that
tooth paste is made pasty by addition of suitable additives. They
basically contain:
(l) Abrasives
(2) Fillers
(3) Antiseptic compounds
(4) Surfaceactive agents/soaps
I
.lt
-_

10. l0 A HANDBOOKOF COSMETICS
(5) Glycerine, hydrocolloids
(6) Flavouring agents
(7) Taste imparters
(8) Colours
The denfifrices are solid cakes and for application to teeth they rnay
be taken on tooth brushesin a moist state.
The mouthwashesare mainly solutions of antiseptic substanceswith
various other additives. The same are not very popular.
To get a comprehensiveidea of the cosmeticsthe chart presentedon
page 3 of this book may be useful.
on the whole cosmeticsare important group of consumer materials.
Their flavours or smells are very significant in their selection bv the
common man.
Evaluation and Quality Control
The cosmetics are very important. All the products should be
evaluated for their performance,ingredients,etc. It is also necessaryto
check whether the products have any sensitivity or toxic effects.
CHAPTER-2
The Skin
Since most of the cosmeticpreparationsare meant to be applied on skin
for beautification,protection or other purposes,basic knowledge of the
skin and its functions is very much important for designing cosmetics
meant for specific purposeof the skin.
The skin, the heaviest single organ of the body, combines with the
mucosallining of the respiratory,digestive and urogenital tractsto form
a capsule which separatesthe internal body structures from the external
environment. It not only physically protects the internal organs and
limits the passageof substancesinto and out of the body but also
stabilisestemperatureand blood pressurewith its circulation and evapo-
ration system.
For an averagesix-foot, 70-kg human, the skin surfaceareais 1.9 m2
and weighs about 2100 gms. A typical squarecentimetreof skin covers
l0 hair fcrllicles, 12 nerves, 15 sebaceousglands, 100 sweat glands,
3 blood vesselswith 92 cm of nervesand 3x106 cells.
Normally the skin is very smooth. However, due to aging and expo-
sureto heat and cold, sunrays,pressureand abrasion,dust and microbial
infection, etc. the srnoothness
may be lost and the skin becomesrougher
and thicker. Aging also produceswrinklels on the skin surfaoe.
pH of the skin varies from 4 to 5"6 and refersto the pH of the film of
aqueousand other soluble materials presenton the surfaceof the skin.
Sweat and fatty acids secretedfrom sebum influence the pH of the skin
surface. It is suggestedthat acidity of the skin helps in limiting or
preventingthe growth of pathogensand other organisms.
Functions and Compositions of Skin
Skin performs severalfunctions including containrnentof body fluids
and tissues;protection fi'om external stimuli like chemicals,light, heat
and cold, radiation etc.; reception of stimuli like pressure,heat, pain;
biochemical synthesis;metabolism and disposal of biochemical wastes;
regulation of body temperature;controlling of blood pressure.
ll

11. t2 A HANDBOOKOF COSMETICS
,""'6tin contains several chemical substanceswith specific functions
like keratin, Iipids, fatty acids, proteinase,etc'
Keratin is produced from polypeptidesin the cytoplasm of epidermal
cells by a high energy system at the granular layer of normal human
skin.
Sebum is the product of the sebaceousglands and consists of
triglycerides, free fatty acids, waxes, sterols, squalene and paraffins'
Free fatty acids are responsiblefor bactericidal and fungicidal activities.
Skin also contains two essentialfatty acids, called linoleic acid and
arachidonic acid, which play an irnportant role in regulating the barrier
functions.
Skin synthesizeson steroid, vitamin D3, that subsequentlygets con-
verted to the horrnone calcitriol which is important to normal calcium
metabolism.
A proteinase has been isolated which is believed to play a role in
modulating the inflammatory responseto cellular injury'
Anatomy and PhYsiologY
Thehurnanskincomprisesofthreedistinctbutmutuallydependent
tissues (Fig. 2-l), the stratified, avascular, cellular epidermis and an
Sebaceous
Human skin displays two main types. Hairy skin encloses hair
follicles and sebaceousglands, but there are no encapSulatedsense
organs. Glabrous skin of the palms and the soles is made of a thick
epidermis with a compact stratum corneum, but the integuments lack
hair follicles and sebaceous
glands and the dermis supportsencapsulated
senseorgans
A. The Epidermis
The multilayer envelopeof the epidermisvaries in thickness,depend-
ing on cell size and the number of cell layers, ranging from about
0.g mm on the palms and the soles down to 0.06 mm on the eyelids.
I stratum
I
corneum
-l
.,u,nn
J
epidermis
Ch.z THESKIN
underlying dermis of connectivetissue.
the fatty, subcutaneouslaYer.
l3
At the bottomof the dermislies
Dermal
vasculature
Eccrinegland
duct
Hair
follicle
Hair
shaft
Fig.2-2 Magnification
of epidermis
Cells which provide epithelial tissuediffer from thoseof all other organs
in that as they ascend from the proliferative layer of basal cells they
change in an ordered fashion from metabolically active and dividing
cells to dense, dead, keratinized protein' Downward, the epidermis
comprisesof five distinct and separatelayers:
(l) The horny tayer (Stratum corneum) : At the final stage of
differentiation, epidermalcells constructthe most superficial layer of the
epidennis, the stratum corneum. Human beings owe their ability to
survive in a non-aqueousenvironmentto the almost impermeablenature
of this refractory horny layer. on the generalbody areasthe membtane
provides about 10-15 layers of much flattened, keratinized de_ad-cells,
ttu"king them in highly organisedunits of vertical columns. The horny
laye. may be only l0 pm thick when dry, but swells in water to several
times this thickness. However, at friction surfaces of the body like
palms and soles the thickness may be as high as seyeral hundred
micrometres. When dry it is a very dense tissue' about i '5 gmlcrn3'
Stratum
corneum
Living
epidermis
Subcutaneous
fattytissue
SLrbcutaneous
srar
ru Arrectores
pilorum
muscle
Dermal
vasculature
vasulature
Fig. 2-l Schematic
cross-section
ofthe skin

12. 14 A HANDBOOK
oF COSMETICS
Each thin polygonal cell measuresapproximately 0.5 to l.5 pm thick,
with the diameter ranging from 34 pm on the foreheadto 46 pm on the
thigh axilla.
At normal relative humidities, a normal stratumcorneum can take up
moisture upto I 5-20% of its dry weight. But in water logged condition
water content of sorneareasof,the body can be severaltimes of the dry
weight. When occlusive dressing or c.reamsare applied over skin, the
stratum corneull can become highly hydrated due to prevention of
natural evaporation of water. By this process some substancesmay
become more soluble in it as well. Conversely as the stratum corneum
dries out it becomes brittle. Thus the ultradry, inelastic tissue tends to
split when stretchedcausing conditions like chappedlips, windburn and
dishiran hands.
One can distinguish two types of horny layers by anatornic site,
function and structure. The horny pads of the palms and soles adapt for
weight bearing and friction and the membranousstratum corneum over
the remainder of the body is flexible but impenneable. The horny pads
are at least40 times thicker than the membranoushorny layer. Holbrook
and Odland carried out an ultrastructuralanalysisof the stratum corneum
to find out the regional differences in the thickness (cell layers) in
humans(Table 2-l). The methodsthat were utilisedfor measurement
of
the layers were:
(a) Scotch tape stripping to remove cell layers" The number of
strippings were correlatedwith the nurnberof cell layers.
(b) Treatment of paraffin embeddedand frozen biopsies with alkali
to cause swellins. hence better visualization and more accurate
counting.
(c) Application of standard chemical fixation, paraffin embedment
and staining proceduresfor histological sections. Thicknesswas
measuredrry.ith
a micrometer eyepiece.
TABLE2-I
Regional Differences in the Thickness and
Cell Layers of the Straturn Corneum
Bod.yRegion Thickness of S C. (pm) Number of Cell Lqvers
A[ean Runge lu[ean Ilange
Abdornen
Flexorforearrn
'I'high
Biri;k
8.2
t29
t{).9
9.4
5.9-98
8.tr
-16.2
7.7-t5 .3
8.2-r
1.3
18.0
21.6
19.3
15.8
15.0-20.9
r6.7-30.0
143-22.7
I4.0-21
l
Ch-2 THESKIN 15
Human beings constantly shed the outermost layers of the stratum
corneum as lipid-soaked horny flakes with an averagedaily loss from
the whole body surfaceof 0.5 to 1.0 kg.
The stratum corneum plays a crucial role in controlling the percuta-
neousabsorptionof chemical substances. The selectivepermeability of
its elegant structureprovides a central theme in many aspectsof design
of cosmetics.
(2) Stratum lucidum : In the palm of the hand and the sole of the
foot, an anatomically distinct, poorly staining hyaline zone forms a thin,
translucentlayer immediately above the granular layer. This region is
the stratum lucidum. The cells are non nuclear.
(3) Stratum granulosurn (granular layer) : This layer is abovethe
keratinocytes. They manufacture basic staining particles, the
keratinohyaline granules. This keratogenousor transitional zone is a
region of intensebiochemical activity and morphological change. The
dynamic operation manufactures the keratin to form the horny layer by
an active rather by a degenerativeprocess.
(4) Stratum spinosum (prickly cell layer) : The cells of this layer
are produced by morphological and histochemicalalteration of the cells
of 'basallayer as they moved upward. The bells flatten dnd their nuclei
shrink. They are also called polygonal cells, prickle cells, becausethey
are interconnectedby fine prickles. Each prickle enclosesan extension
of tnd cytoplasm"and the opposing tips of the prickles of adjacentcells
adhere to form intercellular bridges, the desmosomes. These links
maintain the integrity of the epidermis.
(5) Stratum germinativum (basal layer and dermoepidermal junc-
tion) : The basal cells are nucleated,columnar and about 6 pm wide,
with their long axis at right anglesto the dermoepidermaljunction, they
are connected by cytoplasmic intercellular bridges.
Mitosis of the basal cells constantly renews the epidermis and this
proliferation in healthy skin balancesthe loss of dead horny cells from
the skin surface. Thus the thicknessof epidermisremains constant'
The basal cells also include melanocyteswhich produce and distrib-
ute melanin granules to the keratinocy'tes required for pigmentation, a
protective measureagainstradiation. Below the basal cell layer lies the
complex dermoepidermal junction, which constitutes an anatomic func-
tional unit. The junction servesthe three functions of dermal-epidermal
adherence,mechanical support for the epidermis, the control of the
passageof cells and some large molecules acrossthe junction'

13. 16 A HANDBOOK
OFCOSMETICS
The barrier function of the junction can be consideredin terms of
threespecies,
small molecules,
largemolecules
and cells. Thereis no
evidencethat the junction significantlyinhibits the passage
of water,
electrolytes,
andotherlow molecularweightmaterials.
B. The Dermis
The dermis,as indicatedin Fig. 2-1, is the non-descriptive
region
lying in betweenthe epidermisand the subcutaneous
fatty region- It
consistsmainly of the densenetwork of structuralproteinfibres i.e.
collagen,reticulum and elastin,embeddedin the semigelmatrix of
mucopolysaccharidic
'ground substances'.It is about 0.2 to 0'3 cm
thick. The elasticityof skin is dueto thenetworkor gel structure
of the
cells. It alsoconsists
of the epidermis
andreticularlayer,which is the
maiir structuralbody of the skin. Beneaththe dermis,the fibroustissue
opensout and mergeswith the fat containingsubcirtaneous
tissue. On
the otherhand,the upperlayerof the dermisis formedinto ridgesor
papillaeprojectinginto the epidermis,which containsblood vessels,
lymphatics,and nerve endings. Only the nervefibres reachinto the
germinative
zoneof the epidermis.
C. Subcutaneous
Tissue
This layerconsists
of a sheetof fat-richareol.ar
tissue,knownasthe
superficialfascia,attachingthe dermisto the underlyingstructures.The
subcutaneous
layeris quiteelastic. Largearteries
andveinsarepresent
only in the superficial
region. Therestof theportioncontains
a limited
numberof capillaries
andnovitalorgans.
D. Skin Appendages
The skin is interspersed
with hair folliclesandassociated
sebaceous
glands,like pilosebaceous
glandsand in specif,rc
regionstwo typesof
sweat glands, eccrineand apocrineglands. Collectively,these are
referredto asthe skin appendages.
Hair folliclesaredistributed
overthe entireskin surface
exceptsoles
of the feet,the palm of the hand,the redportionof thelips, andselected
portionof thesexorgans.It consists
of concentric
layersof cellularand
non-cellularcomponents
and is placedat an angle. Smoothmuscle
fibres, arrectorespilorum, attach the hair to the dermal connective
tissues. The hair shaftis formedby a process
of cellulardivisionand
migration of the cells similar to that which formsthe stratumcorneum.
Hairs arethus formedof keratinizedcellscompacted
togetherinto plates
and scales.
ch-2 THE
SKIN 17
Eachhair follicle is associated
with one or more sebaceous
gland
which are referredas the acid mantle of the skin. ln some selected
regionof the skin theseexist in the absence
of the hair follicle. Their
sizevariesfrom regionto region(200 to 2000 pm) and is highestin
nose. It secretes
oily material,sebum,which lubricatesthe skin and
stratumcorneuinandalsomaintainsthe pH of the skin at 5'
(l) Eccrinesweatglands: Eccrineglandsor saltysweatglandsare
distributed
overthe surface
of thebody. Theyconsistof simple,coiled
tube as shown in Fig.2.l and have a density from 100 to
200 glandsper cm2of the body surface
depending
on the body region.
The secretionis dilute aqueous
solutionof salt and someotherminor
components
and it hasa pH of about5. The principalfunctionof the
glandis heatcontrol" It secretes
diluteaqueous
solutionof saltanddue
to this it regulates
the body temperature.
(2) Apocrine glands : Apocrine glandsare presentonly in the
selected
regionof the body viz. axillae(armpits),in anogenital
region
and aroundthe nipples. They areten timeslargerthaneccrineglands
andsecretes
a milky substance
containing
protein,lipoprotein,
lipidsand
diverseproteins. The secretion
is mainly stimulated
due to emotional
stress
andsexualstimulation.
(3) Sebaceous
glands : Sebaceous
glandsare responsible
for the
secretionof sebum,which constitutes
the majority of the fatty layer
coveringthe skin andhair. The sebaceous
glandsarefoundin various
partrofthe bodylike face,shoulders,
upperchestandscalp,but arenot
foundon the palmsandsoles. Theyareavailable
500-1000per square
centimetre.
(4) Hair : The hair shaft is basically the product of synthesized
proteinfollowingcell divisionat the root of hair follicle. The number
of hair per unit areavariesat different parts of the body. The rate of
growthalsovariesfrom siteto siteandvariesbetween
0.2to 0'4 mm per
day.
CommonDisordersof the Skin
As we mentioned
earlierthat cosmetics
arebasicallyfor beautifica-
tion and masking,preventionor overcomingcommondisorders,
it is
npcessary
to havea knowledge
of commondisorders
of theskin. Design
andapplicationof any skin cosmetics
will be guidedby the natureand
siteof disorders.Commondisorders
of skincanbeclassified
asfollows:

14. l8 A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
A.' Pigmentary Disorders
This is due to disorder in pigmentation on the skin and it can be of
hyperpigmentationor hypopigmentation in nature.
(1) Hyperpigmentation : This is the disorder due to abnormal
pigmentation which occurs on a small area of the skin, mainly in
Caucasians. This disorder is due to an increased local synthesis of
melanin in the epidermis. This can be further stimulatedby exposureto
UV or X-irradiation. Various conditions are termed as ephelides,
lentigens,moles, ochronosis.
(2) Hypopigmentation : Synthesisof lesseramount of melanin in
part of skin can cause hypopigmentation, which is called vitiligo, a
patchy depigmentation of the skin afflicting a considerablenumber of
non-Caucasians. It can also occur in Caucasians. A decreaseor total
absenceof melanocytesin the depigmentedareashas been observed.
B. Disorders of the Sebaceousand Sweat Glands
Disorders or malfunctions of sebaceousand sweat glands can cause
various skin disorderslike acne,prickly heat, etc.
Acne like pimples, blackheads,whiteheadsand boils are causedby
the disordersof hair follicles and sebaceousglands and mostly occur in
face, neck and upper portion of chestand back.
Miliaria, most common of which is prickly heat or strophus, is
caused by the disorder of sweat glands and commonly occurs in neck
and large areasof the skin.
C. Skin Scaling Disorders
Skin scaling can be due to dandruff and psoriasis.
(1) Psoriasis : This is a skin disease characterizedby the formation
of scaly red patches,particularly on the extensor surfacesof the body,
mainly elbows and knees. The site is covered with silvery scaleswhich
on removal show a small bleeding point.
(2) Dandruff: This is characterizedby flaking of stratum corneum
and mostly occurs on scalp. The reasonsuggestedfor this condition can
be microbial infection, immunological or normal disorder at the surface
of stratum comeum.
(3) Effects of aging on skin : Aging affects the characters and
functions of the skin. Cosmetics are used to partially repair, mask or
overcome such changes. Various changescausedby aging are thinning
of epidermis making older people more prone to injury and skin infec-
Ch-2 THESKIN 19
tion, reducing the sensitivity of the immune systemcausing further skin
damage and infection, change in colour, lower melanin level makes it
more sensitiveto sun exposure,dry and scaly skin due to lesssecretion,
cold skin due to low blood supply, decreasein elasticity of the skin and
occurrenceof wrinkles.
Skin : Its Nutrition and Care
To ensurethe maintenanceof normal condition of skin various steps
or practices should be adopted. They include cleansing, fresheningor
toning, moisturising, nourishing and protecting the skin. For aging skin
further care is requiredfor overcoming the changesthat have occurredor
for masking the skin characters"
Advent of more and more knowledge about skin physiology and
biochemistry has given the cosmetic manufactuiers more avenues for
better skin care. Several creams are available for specific functions,
overcoming specific disorder of skin in specialcases.
Nutrients of skin Various substances
are essentialfor maintenance
of normal condition and function of skin. Some of these are systemi-
cally supplied and others are synthesizedby various mechanismsin the
skin from raw materials. Theseinclude:
(1) Proteins : Proteinsare major componentssynthesizedin epider-
mis and hair follicle from amino acids. The amino acids are supplied by
the blood by the breakdown of the dietary proteins at the digestive
systgms.
(2) Lipids : Lipid is another important substancesynthesizedin the
skin by the sebaceousglands in the epidermis. Sebum is lipid secreted
from the sebaceousglands and is made from mainly fatty acids' Lipids
produced at the epidermis have a role in barrier function and structural
integrity of the stratum corneum, and are made from acetate, amino
acids, long chain fatty acids and carbohydrates.
(3) Melanin : Melanin is synthesizedfrom the amino acid tyrosin
and is responsiblefor pigmentation at the skin.
(4) Energy supply substances : The synthesis of proteins, lipids
and melanin requiresthe supply of energy at the skin cells and is made
available by energy processeslike oxidative phosphorylationof glucose
or other monosaccharides.
(5) Water : This is most important for normal function of the skin
and movement of other nourishing substances
and metabolites.

15. 20 A HANDBOOKOF COSMETICS
(6) Others : Apart from the above substatpes various other sub-
stances like protein hormones, steroid hormones, corticosteroids and
vitamins are also essential for normal maintenance of the skin.
The above substances
are requiredto be suppliedas skin preparations
if they are not available through normal systemicprocess.
Supply of these nourishing substancesrequires penetration through
skin to reach the proper site. It is very important for the designer to
ensurethe cutaneouspermeationofany such substances.The percutane-
ous permeation of amy chemical entity will depend on various factors
like:
(a) Physico-chemical properties and concentration of the
permeant
(b) Composition and characteristicsof the vehicle
(c) Condition of the skin
For poorly penetrablesubstances,some additive can be incorporated
to enhancethe penetrationof the permeants.'These are called 'Penetra-
tion Enhancers'. Various substancesare used as penetrationenhancers
like dimethyl formamide (DMF), dimethyl sulphoxide (DMSO), ozone,
alcohols and surfactants. Their funtions are attributed to their role to
temporarily change the barrier systems of the skin by various mecha-
nisms.
Skin care preparations Various products are available and mar-
keted for the care of skin. They are used for beautifrcation, skin care,
masking or repairing of skin defects,etc.
(1) Powders, face powders, compactsetc.
(2) Skin colorants like lipstick, rouge, eye mascaraetc.
(3) Various creams for care of skin.
(4) Sunscreenpreparationsfor skin protection.
CHAPTER-3
Powdersand ComPacts
PreParationsis Powders and com-
and bodY care, not onlY bY women
rowders, which are also known as
[acePowders and comPacts' Medi-
"fl
.T
:fl:::::#'T:ffi:i:'*1
powders
usedfor specificpurposes'
Fundamentallypowdersdiffpr from liquid skin carepreparations
in
theirphysicalcharacteristicsandtheirmostimportantcosmeticproper-
tiesaredeterminedexactlybythesecharacteristics.Veryfineparticle
size produceslarge t"tfu""
-"u
p"' unit weight which covers a large
,urf*" areaof the body andresulisin stronglight dispersion'
Thepowdersshouldhavethe followingcharacteristics:
(l) The powdermusthavegood coveringpowerand so hide skin
blemishes.
'12; t, mustadhereperfectlyto the skin andnot blow off easily'
(3) It must not be completelydissipatedin a few minutesto avoid
re-Powdering.
(a) The finish given to the skin must be preferablyof a matt or
Peach-like
character'
(5) Shineon or aroundthe nosemustbe completelyeliminated'
(6) 'the Powdermustbe absorbent'
1Zi fn"r" mustbe sufficient slip to enablethe powderto spreadon
the skin by the puff withoui producinga blotchyeffect'
(8) The constituents
of the powdermust be suchthat a clown-like
effect is impo'siUte' The preferenceshould be rather towards
one of transParency'
Raw Materials for Powdersand Allied Preparations
The primary considerationin the manufactureof powders is the
2l

16. 22 A HANDBooKoF
coSMETIcS
selectionof properraw materials. euality of the basicingredients
is
very importantto achievethe intendedquality of the finishedproducts
and the effect to be obtainedfrom the products. so, the quality of the
raw materialsplays an important role in the ultirnatepowder ro.-ut"-
tion. Theknowledgeof variousraw materials
andtheircharacters,
role.
shouldbe well known beforejudiciousselection
of materials.
The main substances
usedto impart all the necessary
qualitiesare
kaolin, zinc oxide, zinc stearate,
titanium'dioxide,calciumcarbonate,
magnesiumcarbonate,purified talc (talcum), magnesiumstearateetc.
Apart from the above, various colours and perfumesare also usedto
impartintended
colourshadeandodour.
The raw materialsto be usedfor manufacturingpowdershouldbe of
goodquality:-
(1) The materialsshould not be hbrd. If the materialsare
crystals in nature they must not have any sharpedgesor
points. Thesecan damagethe skin.
(2) Solubility of the materialsin waterand fat mixture must be
nil or least.
(3) Thematerials
mustbenon-i*itatingandnon-toxic
to theskin.
(a) The materialsmust be chemicallyneutraland shouldnot
interactwith eachother.
The raw materialsgenerallyusedin manufacturing
of variouspow-
dersareclassified
anddiscussed
according
to their functions:-
, (l) Materialsimpartingcoveringcharacter
-
(2) Materialsimpartingadhesioncharacter
(3) Materialsimpartingslip and softness
(4) Materialsimpartingabsorbency
characters
(5) Materialsimpartingpeach-likefinish
(6) Frosted-lookmaterials
(7) Colouringsubstances
(8) Perfumes
All the materialsare not requiredfor every preparation. According
to the needandpurposeof the productraw materialsareselected.Some
of the itemsareessentialfor everypreparationsuchascoveringmateri-
als,absorbents,
adhesives,
slips.
(l) Materials for imparting covering character : One important
characterexpectedfrom the materialsusedin powders,particularlyface
Ch-3 POWDERSAND COMPACTS 23
powders,is the ability to coversmallskin imperfections,
enlargedpores,
etc. They shouldbe in finely powderedform. Generally,the covering
power per unit weight is strongerif the specific surfacearea of the
powder is higher i.e. the particlesare finer. The efficiencyof the
coveringagentcan dependon the medium in which it is dispe?sed.
Coveringpoweris betteron dry skin thanmoist skin. Titaniumdioxide
is thebestcoveringagent.It is widelyusedin facepowders.covering
powerof titaniumdioxideis 1.6timesmorethanthe zincoxideon dry
ikin and 2.5 times more on moist and greasyskin. It is mostly
physiologically
inert. Its sunscreen
properties
are,however,inferiorto
zincoxide.
Zinc oxideis alsoa very goodcoveringagent.t,
Thoughfiner parti-
cles have hettercoveringpower, but coveringptrwer of zinc oxide
particlesdiminishesif the particlesize is below 0'25 pm. In moist
invironmentcoveringpowerof zincoxideis 37Yo
of thatof dry powder
andmuchlessin oily environment.
Zinc oxidehasvery goodsunscreen
properties
asit hasa protective
effectagainst
ultravioletrays.
Kaolin, zinc stearate,
magnesiumstearateand rice starchare other
substances
usedascoveringagents.However,they arenot asgood as
titanium dioxide and zincoxide. But combinationof the abovemateri-
als, in different proportions,can be usedto make productsof varying
coveringability.
(2) Materials imparting adhesion character : trpe5p...-5g.l0.stancss
impart adhesioncharacter.Not only to the skin surfacebut alsoto the
iowder puff, which facilitatestaking powder from its container. This
characteris essentialto cling the powder to the face or other skin
surface.
The materialsprimarily usedfor imparting adhesivecharacters
are
rnetalsoapsprimarily zinc stearate
andmagnesium
stearate,
talc, magne-
siumandcalciumsaltsof myristic-
acid.
' Magnesiumstearatehasbetter adhesivepropertythan zinc stearate
and is more preferred in face powders. But zinc stearateis more
predominantlyusedin talcum powders. Superquality magnesiumand
zinc stearates
are availablewith excellentcolour,textureandminimum
of odour. 'Ihey alsogive a velvetysoftness
to the product^As they are
waterproof,they maintainthe complexionintact in inclementweather.
Magnesium
stearate
is used3-10%s
in facepowders.
Stearates
of lithium and calciurnare also availablefor use for the
sam.e
purpose"Lithium stearate,
in particular,hasalsogot goodcover-
ing propertiesandflufff texture.

17. 24 A HANDBooKoF cosMETrcs
Magnesium and calcium salts of myristic acid are also used for their
adhesion properties. Magnesium myristate has better adhesion character
and a better texture.
Cosmetic quality talc, which is a purified hydrated nragnesiumsili-
cate has adhesionproperties. Though it is available in various corrntries,
Italian product is the best and used for both face powders and body
powders.
The adhesion characterof the powders can be increasedby incorpo-
rating l-2%o cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, glyceryl monostearate,
petrolatum, lanolin or similar fats.
(3) Materials imparting slip and softneis : Slip is rhe quality of
easy spreading and application of powder to produce a characteristic
smooth feeling on the skin. This characteris mainly obtained by using
talc, zinc and magnesium stearates,
and aluminium hydrosilicate.
Talc is purified hydrated magnesiurnsilicate (3MgO, 4SiO2, H2O).
The proportion of Mg and Si can vary. Talc is produced by different
countries but Italian, French and some lndian varietiesare of very good
quality and most suitable for powders specifically face powders. Some-
times talc contains pathogenic spores,particularly tetanus, so properly
sterilized products are used in powder preparations. Talc is distin-
guished by its great softnessand slip and is almost neutral if adequately
purified. It is not to be used in open skin as in wounds it can cause
talcum granuomae. Talc cannot absorbany water.
,Alurninium hydrosilicate is a valuable basic material for powders It
is smooth and fatty. It should be prepared properly by trehting with
acid, washing with water and then dried. It also has certain cooling
effect. It absorbs fatty secretions and small amounts of water. lt is
completely non-toxic.
Ofher substancesused for softnessand slip are zinc stearate,magne-
sium stearate,zinc undecanate,
magnesiumundecanate.The undecanates,
in particular, are soft and have excellentslip but are expensive. properly
purified stearatesare extensively used.
(4) Materials imparting absorbencycharacters : Powdersshould
have ability to eliminate shiny skin in certain facial areasby absorbing
sebaceoussecretionsand perspiration. This charactercan be imparted
by incorporating material with high absorptivecapacity in face powders,
dusting powders, baby powders, deodorant powders, foot powders etc.
Face powders should also have a certain absorbencyto prevent srnudg-
ing of make-up by perspiration The rnaterialswhich impart this property
Ch-3 POWDERSAND COMPACTS 25
are colloidal kaolin, starch, bentonite, precipitated chalk (calcium car-
bonate), magnesium carbonate'
colloidal kaolin is a fine, soft, white powder. It has a good absorb-
ent capacity for aqueous and fatty substancesand good covering power
also. It is non-toxic and non-irritating and inert. It has less slip
property.
Bentonite is mainly aluminium silicate and fine grey whitish powder.
It has extraordinary swelling power and can swell upto 12 times of its
own volume. Its use in cosmetics is comparatively less'
preferred less than magnesium carbonate.
various starches,like rice, wheat,corn, potato etc.,arecomparatively
less used nowadays. It has good moisture absorbing and swelling
ability. It produces a sticky character but is completely non-toxic.
to get better effect.
not be used in excessof 30 Per cent.
aluminiurn,hronz*.
(7) Colourimg substances : These are substancesmainly used ill
facepowders and cornpastsbut not in dusting or baby powders' Various
inorganic and organic pigments and certified organic lakes are used.

18. 26 A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
Various synthetic or natural inorganic pigments used are iron oxides for
yellows, reds, and brov,,nsand ultramarine for green and blue. ;Toxic
lead and arsenic compoundsare not used.
Organic lakes and pigments produce better brilliance but should be
selectedfrom certified dyes.
The organic'pigments must not bleed in oil or water and should be
light-fast. phoice of colour is mainly users'taste. Various colours with
various shadesare usedto fulfil the satisfactionofthe users. The colour
of the thin film of the pigment may be different from the colour effect
given by the powder viewed in bulk.
(8) Perfumes : rrPerfumeis an essential component of powders.
Users put more importance to perfume. But it should not be over
emphasized at the time of manufacturing. Normally the products are
perfumed lightly, particularly face powders and compacts. The odour
must be fragrant and pleasant.I Various perfumes or fragrance which are
used, either flowery fragrance or synthetic odour. Selection of proper
fra.granceis very vital for the products. Sometime combination of
fragrances gives a better appeal.
Compatibility of perfume with other constituentsof the formulation
-is to be checked properly before use. Constituentsof powder prepara-
tion may change the character of fragrance.
POWDER PRODUCTS
(1) FACE POWDERS
Face powder is an indispensablearticle of a lady's cosmetic range.
From the mask-like covering in ancient times to the natural look which
is the choice of the presentday, face powdershave beenand still rernain
one of the basics of the cosmetic industry.
A great deal of changes have taken place in face powder fashion
during the last couple of decades. Tinted, shiny, enhanced by our
modern cosmetics,the woman of today is able, with only modest effort,
to be more attractive than she has ever been in the past.
A face powder is basically a cosmetic product which has as its prime
function the ability to complement skin colour by imparting a velvet
finish to it.
A good faie powder should produce a smooth t-rnishto the facial
skin, masking visible imperf'ectionsof the face and shinedue to moisture
or grease from perspiration or secretionof sebaceousand sweat glands
or fron preparations used on the skin. The powder must produce a
Ch.3 POWDERSAND COMPACTS
lastingeffect,so that frequentapplicationis unnecessary.The prepara-
tion should makethe face pleasantto look and touch. The degreeof
opacity can vary from opaque,in caseof clown make-up,to almost
transparent.It mustadhereto theskin andbe reasonably
resistant
to the
mixedsecretions
of the skin.
sinceno singlematerialcanhaveall the'required
properties
desired
in a facepowder,a mixtureof differentsubstances
is norrnallyemployed
to get the following essential
characteristic's
of a goodproduct-
(a) Covering power : The ability to maskskin imperfections
such
asskinshine,enlarged
poresandminorblemishes.
(b) Slip : Thecharacter
of spreading
overthe skin withoutdragging,
andgivingthecharacteristic
of smoothfeeling.
(c) Adhesiveness
: Theability to cling to the face.
(d) Absorbency: The ability to absorbskin perspirarion
and oily
secretion
withoutshowingtheeffectof suchabsorption.
(e) Bloom : Theabilityto imparta velvety,peach-like
finishto the
faceskin.
(f) Colouring : To imparta coloureffectaccording
to the need.
(g) Perfuming : To producea pleasantodour. The proportion of
variousingredients
usedcanbe alteredto haveslightvariation
in the propertiesof the powder and their effect, but, as a
practice,f-acepowdersare classifiedin to three categories
_ depending
on the natureofthe skin andcorrespondingly
cover-
ing ability requiredfrom theproducts.
(i) Light type
(ii) Mediumtype
(iii) Heavytype
Skin to be powderedcan be classifiedinto three categories:
dry,
normalor moderatelyoily, and very oily.
(i) Light type : Dry skin requireslight powder,a powderof slight
covering power as dry skin secretesvirtually no oil and little
moisture.fhey normally containlargequantityof talc.
(ii) Medium type : Mediumpowders,
havingcomparatively
higher
coveringpower,areappliedto normalor moderately
oily skins,
which are shinierdue to skin secretions.They containsome_
whatlesser
talcandbalanced
by zinc oxide.
(iii) Heavy type : Heavypowdershavemorecoveringpowerandare
usedfor extremelyoily skinswhich havea greatdealof shine
27

19. A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
and thus requiregreatcovering power. They normally contain
still lower quantityof talc and high quality of zinc oxide.
General preparation : The preparation
of powdersis simpleasit is
simply a matterof dry mixing of finely powderedmaterials. Add the
perfumewith part of the absorbentmaterialslike calcium carbonateor
with magnesiumcarbonateand keep it aside for sometime. Mix the
colour with part of the talc properlyand addthe otherpowdersandthen
the perfumemixture. Mix and sievethe powder mixture using a silk
meshor an old washednylon cloth.
Formulaeof FacePowders
POWDER WITH REDUCING COVERING POWER
Forihula I
Zinc stearate
Zinc oxide
I Calcium carbonate(light)
,Talc
Titaniumdioxide
. Magnesiumcarbonate
(light)
Colour
Perfttme
LIGHT POWDER
Formula
2
Talc
Kaolin
Calcium carbonate
(light)
Zinc oxide
Zinc stearate
Magnesiumcarbonate
Colour
Perfume
Formula
3
Zinc stearate
Zinc oxide
Calcium carbonate
(light)
Talc
Colour
Perfume
Ch-3 POWDERSAND COMPACTS
Formuh4
Talc
Zinc oxide
Zinc stearate
Rice starch
Colour
Perfume
MEDIUMPOWDER
Formula
5
Talc
Kaolin
Calciumcarbonate
(light)
Zinc oxide
Zinc stearate
Magnesiumcarbonate
Colour
Perfume
Formula
6
Zinc stearate
Zinc oxide
Titaniumdioxide
Precipitated
chalk
Rice starch
Talc
Colour r
Perfume
Formula 7
Zinc stearate
Zinc oxide
Calciumcarbonate
Talc
Colour
Perfume
HEAVYPOWDER
Formula8
Magnesium stearate
Kaolin (light)
Zinc oxide
29
28
79.0 gm
5.0 gm
5.0gm
10.3gm
0.3 gm
0.7-gm
5.0 gm
10.0gm
20.0 gm
57.3gm
2.0 gm
5.0 gm
0.2 gm
0.5 gm
63.0gm
20.0gm
5.0 gm
5.0 gm
5.0 gm
1.0gm
0.5 gm
0.5 gm
7.0 gm
10.0gm
20.0gm
62.3 gm
0.3 gm
0.4 gm
39.7 gm
39.5gm
5.0 gm
7.0 gm
7.0 gm
1.0gm
0.2 gm
0.6 gm
5.0gm
15.0gm
2.0 gm
15.0gm
15.0gm
47.2gm
0.3 gm
0.5 gm
15.0
17.5
20.0
47.0
0.2
0.3
gm
gm
gm
gm
gm
gm
gm
gm
gm
5.0
20.0
l5.0

20. A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
, 39.0gm
20.0gm
0.5 gm
0.5 gm
5.0 gm
15.0gm
5.0 gm
15.0gm
25.0gm
34.0gm
0.4 gm
0.6 gm
Ch-3 POWDERS
AND COMPACTS 3l
30
Calcium carbonate
(light)
Talc
Colour
Perfume
Formula 9
Titaniumdioxide
Zinc oxide
Magnesiumstearate
Calciumcarbonate
(light)
Kaolin (light)
Talc
Colour,
Perfume
(a) Dry binders
magnesium
stearate'
firm compacting.
(b) Oil binders : Oils such as mineral oil, isopropyl myristate' and
lanolin derivatives are widely used as binding agents for making com-
pact powders.
pact powders. A preservativeis essentialin gum medium to prevent
rnicrobiological growth in the preparations'
(d) Water-repellant binders : These are widely used in compact
fa"" io*d"rs and include mineral oil, various fatty esters,and lanolin
derivatives in combination with a considerableamount of water to aid in
the formation of a smooth, solidly pressedcake' A wetting agent may
also be incorporatedto help to uniformly distribute moisture throughout
the powder.
Methods of PreParation I
Basicallythreemethods.ofpreparationofcompactfacepowdersare
adopted.
(l)Wetmethod:lnthismethodbasicmaterials,coloursand
Uinieis are kneaded into a pastewith water, pressedinto moulds and air-
dried slowly. It is not much used as it can produce cracks and other
lbults.
anolamine stearatewith lanolin and cetyl alcohol'
: They are metallic stearate-slike zinc stearate,
The useofdry bindersneedsincreasedpressurefor
(2) COII{PACT FACE POWDER
tsintlingagents:Thebinclersusedincompactpowdersareseveralin
nurnber'. "l'he1'can be ciassified into five types--
(a) DrY trit'rdi:rs
(b) {)i1 bindq:rs
qc) Water-soluble binders
(cl) Vy'nter-rePellant
binders
ie) kirnulsi'llnbinders

21. 33
32
A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
(3) Damp method : In this methodthe basepowder,colour and
perfumeare mixed uniformly. The mixture is then wetteddown with
liquid binders like aqueousmucilagesor mucin rich o/w emulsion
bindersand blendeduntil the proper plasticity of the massis attaine(.
The powder is then screenedan/ compressed
by machineand dried ht
elevatedtemperature. This methodis a widely accepted
methodand is
usedcommercially.
FORMULAE OF SOME BINDERS
Formulal0
Gum Arabic
Glycerol
Water
Preservative
Formula
ll
Gum tragacanth
Glycerol monostearate
Mineraloil
Sorbitol
Water
Preservative
Formula
12
Gum tragacanth
Glucose
Water
Preservative
Formula
13
Mineraloil
Polyoxyethylenestearate
Water
Preservative
Formulaeof Conpact FacePowders
Apart from the formulaementionedin face powders,which can be
convertedto compactby using suitablebinder,the following additional
formulaeare suggested.As the amountof binder,colour and perfume
will vary accordingto need,they arenot mentionedin specificamount.
Ch-3 POWDERSAND COMPACTS
Formulr l4
Talc
Kaolin
Titanium dioxide
Zinc stearate
Colour
Binder
Perfume
Talc
Formule 15
Calciumcarbonate
Zinc oxide
Zinc stearate
Colour
Binder
Perfume
Formulr16
Talc
Kaolin
Chalk,PreciPitated
Titanium dioxide
Zinc stearate
Colour
Binder
Perfume
Formula
17
Talc
Kaolin
Zinc oxide
Zinc stearate
Magnesiumcarbonate
Colour
Binder
Perfume
Formuhl8
Talc
Mica
Titanium dioxide or mica
1.0gm
5.0 gm
94.0gm
q.s.
2.0 gm
6.0 gm
4.0 gm
5.0 gm
83.0gm
'q.s
2.0 gm
5.0 gm
93.0gm
q.s.
1.0gm
2.0 gm
97.0 gm
q.s.
69.0 gm
18.0gm
t.0 gm
5.0 gm
q.s..
q.s.'
q.s.
79.0 gm
9.0 gm
7.0 gm
5.0 gm
q.s
q.s.
q.s.
60.0 gm
12.0gm
12.0gm
12.0gm
4.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
62.0 gm
ll.0 gm
14.0gm
5.0 gm
8.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
70.0gm
20.0gm
10.0gm

22. 34
Colour
Binder
Perfume
Talc
Synthetic
peari
Titaniumdioxide
Zinc stearate
Colour
Binder
Perfume
A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
54.0gm
10.0gm
30.0gm
6.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
o."--d
in bodYPowders'
Ch.3 POWDERSAND COMPACTS
magnesium stearate contributes to adhesive characteristic'
35
Colour is not
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
(3) BODY POWDERS
Amongst the various cosmetics, body powder is one of the widely
consumed cosmetic preparations. Body powders are also known as
talcum powders or dusting powders. They are used for multiple pur-
poses. The main use of body powders or talcum powders is to absorb
moisture or perspirationspecifically after bathing particularly in warmer
countries. These also provide good slip, a cooring effect and efficient
lubrication, and prevent i'itation of skin due to chafing. The very fine
particie size of these covers cause a rarge surface ur.u p". unit weight
and can cover a large body area which resultsin strong
-light
dispersion
and therefore visual covering of the skin underneath. The surface
covered by the powders is much more than the surfaceuncoveredwhich
leadsto a cooling effect if the ingredientsof the powder have good heat
conductivity. These fine powder particles with light weight'adhere to
the skin by the stickiness of the fat film. Noimally,lhey contain
covering material, adhesives,absorbencymaterial, slip, antisepticsand
perfumes.
Body powdersconsistmainry of talc, with smail proportionsof a
metallic stearate,
like zinc stearate,
aluminiumstearate,
etc.,andprecipi-
tated calcium carbonate(chrilk) or magnesiumcarbonate(right). For
antisepticaction boric acid, chlorohexidinediacetate,bithionll
"t".
ur"
usedto suppress
proliferationof microorganisms
responsible
for devel:
opment of perspirationodour. Talcum powderscontaining antiseptic
substances
arealsousedfor prickly heatandfungusinfectiois.
Absorbencycharacteristic
is impartedby the inclusionof kaolin,
magnesiumcarbonate,precipitatedchalk and starch. Slip will be con-
ferred by talc, zinc stearate. The presenceof kaorin, zinc oxide or
GeneralPreParations
Mix the perfumeoil with
'nug"&iu'n -carbonate
ploperly andkeepit
as
id
eror
so
me
time''
#,,';;;; i"i*,"::1,
*i*: tt' iT'""'$"1$1:
the perfumed magneslum carbonate to thls m
and Pack it in contatners'
FORMULAE OF BODY POWDER
75.0gm
10.0gm
5.0 gm
5.0 gm
4.0 gm
0.3 gm
0.7 gm
70.0 gm
25.0 gm
4.0 gm
0.3 gm
0.7 gm
6.0 gm
88.0gm
5.0 gm
0.3gn
0'7 gm
5'0 gm
5.0 gm
15'0gm
74.5gm
0'5 gm
Formula"lg
Formula20
Talc
c6ttoiaAkaolin
Colloidal silica
Magnesium carbonate
Aluminium steafate
Boric acid
Perfume
Formula2l
Talc
Calcium carbonate
,Zinc stearate
Boric acid
Perfume oil
Formula22
Satinex
Talc
ri"gn..iut carbonate (light)
Boric acid
Perfume
oil
Formula
23
Zinc stearate
Zinc oxide
"f"rug"tti
urn carbonate
(light)
Tale
Perfume
Formula
24
Zinc oxide
Cui"i"* carbonate
(light)
4.0 gm
8.0 gm

23. 36
A HANDB@K OF COSMETICS
87.5gm
0.5 gm
DEODORANT
PO}VDERS
Formulr25
(.h.3 POWDERS
ANDCOMPACTS
MEDICATED DUSTING POWDERS
Formule30
37
Talc
Perfume
SodiumproPanedioate
7
Talc
Boricacid
Boricacid
Kaolin
Talc
Menthol
Boric acid
Starch
Talc
FOOT POWDERS
Formulr 3l
Formule32
20.0gm
78.0gm
2.0gm
10.0gm
44.5 gm
45.0gm
0.5 gm
I1.0 gm
20.0 gm
69.0gm z
Zinc oxide
Zinc stearate
Chlorhexidinediacetate
Calciumcarbonate
(light)
Talc
Perfume
Formula26
Zinc oxide
Zinc stearate
Bithional
Calciumcarbonate
(light)
Talc
Perfume
BABYPOWDERS
Formula
22
Talc
Magnesiurnstearate r
Magnesium
carbonate
(light)
Boricacid
Perfumeoil
Formula
2t
Talc
Kaolin
Magnesiumstearate
Boric acid
Satinex
Perfumeoil
Formula 29
Talc
Kaolin
Boric acid
Satinex{
Perfumeoil
5.0 gm
5.0 gm
0.3 gm
10.0gm
79.3gm
0.4 gm
10.0gm
5.0 gm
0.5 gm
5.0 gm
79.2gm
0.3 gm
87.0gm
5.0 gm
5.0 gm
2.5 gm
0.5 gm
70.0gm
20.0gm
4.0 gm
2.5 gm
3.0 gm
0.5 gm
84.0gm
10.0gm
3.5gm
2.0 gm
0.5 gm
Evrluation
Evaluationand assessment
of variouspowderproductsparticularly
looseface powders,compactsare essentialto judge the quality of the
finishedproducts.Intensivetestings
aredoneat differentlevels.onthe
q""iiry of the products. Teststuti b" thoroughand must include.
tests
ilipunitf" size,abrasiveness'
apparent
density'moisturecontent'limits
for colour,etc.
Apart from the commontestof contentdetermination'extensiveand
contro|ledstabilitytestarecarriedouttodeterminethattheformulated
proJuctwill remainstablefor an extendedperiod of time during shelf-
life. For this purpose'if necessary,
acceleratedstability test can be
carriedout. other testswhich aredoneparticularlyfor facepowdersand
compacts
the arethe following-
(1) Shadccontrol and lighting : This is to controlanddetermine
the variationof colour shadeiom batchto batchandwith the standard-
Prop.rtestistobedonetopreventvariationinshades'Onesuch
methodis comparison
of tn. appearance
of the body of the powderwith
a standardwhen it is spreadout *a flattenedon a white paperback-
ground. The otheiln"iftod of evaluationis comparisonof the sample
with the standard
by skin toneor undertone.Powdersshouldbe applied
bt ;; samepuff tlat is to be usedfor finishedpack' This is the final
j,rOJ"rn"n for the shadetest' Artificial lighting is used for colour
dvaluation.

24. 38 A I{ANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
(2) Dispersion of colour': Colour should be homogeneouslydistrib-
uted in the powder base. There should not be segregationor bleeding of
colour. This can be tested by spreading the powder on a white paper
and checking it with a magnifoing glass.
(3) Pay-off : The pay-off character,i.e., adhesionwith the puff, of a
compact or pressedpowder should be testedon the skin. High pressure
will make the cake so hard that the poryder will not rub off the cake
easily enough and thus there will be insufficient adhesionof the material
to the puff. Too low pressure will make the cake soft and thus have a
tendenoyto crumble and break.
(4) Pressure testing : Pressureapplied to compact powder should
be uniform to prevent air pocket and thus breaking or cracking. Uni-
formity of the hardness can be tested by penetrometer. Reading on
hardness is checked,at various points of compact tablet to see the
uniformity of hardness.
(5) Breakage test : This is carried out by dropping the compact
tablet of powder on a wooden surfaceseveraltimes from a height of 8 to
10 inches and checking the breakageor clipping of the compact. If the
cake is unbroken it is indication of the resistanceasainst travel and
normal handling.
(6) Flow property : This is very important, particularly for body
powders as they should come out easily from the containelfor easy
application. This can be studied by measuring angle of repose of
powder product by allowing to fall on a plate from a funnel and
measuringthe height and radius of heap formed. Also, the powder may
be allowed to fall from a funnel and noting the time taken.
(7) Particle size and abrasiveness : Particle size can be determined
by microscope, sieve analysis or by using sophisticatedinstrumentsand
techniques. Abrasivenesscan be studied by rubbing the powders on a
smooth surf'aceand then studying the effect on the surface using micro-
scope.
(8) Moisture content and limits for colour : These can be esti-
mated by using suitable analytical methods.
CHAPTER-4
Skin Colorants
Colouringskin, particularlyskin of faceand lips' is an ancientpractice
going Uit to irehistoric period' In presentdays' the use of.such
iroAi.t, has increasedand choiceof shaded
of colours' texture' lustre
ir"ve beenchangedand becomewider' This can be observedfrom the
fact that lipsticls are marketedin hundredsof shadesof colours to
satisff the demands
of women"
Apartfromnormaldailylife,skincolorantsarealsousedfordrama'
ci."us,danceetc'Thepresentchapterwillbasicallydiscusstwospecific
skincolorants.
(1) LiPsticks
(2) Rouge
The skin colorants
are also calledas'Beauty Aids'but-they are
differentfrom other cosmetics.The solepurposeof skin colorantsis
;il;;;,i"t of appearance
for enhanced
attractiveness'
whereasothercos-
meticshaveotherspecificfunctionsof maintenance
or promotionof the
skinhealthalongwith or without decorativefunctions'
Skin colorantsor beautyaidsmustnot damagethe skin' Decorative
preparations
are usedto tride small blemishesor symptomsof aging'
:fhayur. alsousedto createa well-groomedappearanpe
anddemonstrate
the desireto impressupon others. They are appliedto attractopposite
sexandto be noticedupon. Themotivescanbetermedaspsychological'
Manufacturers
try to make theseas decorative,pleasantlyfragrant'
coloured,
non-tackyandharmless
aspossible'The mainactiveingredi-
ent in suchpreparations
is dye but oiher materialsare also essentialto
holdthe dyainlhe preparations
and for easeof applicationandauxiliary
effects.
(l) LIPSTICKS
Lipsticks,alsotermedas lip cosmetics,
arewidely usedby women'
f,iprtrcf.shavebecome,o popul"t in the last coupleof decades
that they

25. A HANDB@K OF COSMETICS ('h.. SKIN COLORANTS
4l
40
arenow probablyusedmorethan any othersinglecosmetic-
product' Its
popularity
""n
b" gauged from the fact that market has been flooded
,riift pf"nty of productswith hundredsof shades'
Lipsticks are basically dispersionsof colouring matter in a base
consistingof a suitableUienaof oils, fats,andwaxei suitablyperfulned
-J
n"uo-ur"d,mouldedin the form of a stick andenclosedin a'case'
Lipstick is usedto impart an attractivecolour' and glossyandmoist
"pp"riun""
to the lips, accentuating
their good pointsanddisguisingthe
O""l*,t. By properiy applying a iipstick broaderlips can be madeto
look asnalrow or narrow^lipsmay be changedto look asbroadlips' An
ini"ffig"ntly applied lipstick can totally change the apparent facial
upp""i"""". It'also helpsto preventcrackingandchapp-ing.of
lips which
can lead to the Uacteiial infection' The baseused for lipsticks also
producesan emollientaction'
LipskinSkinofthelipsischaracterizedbyanexceptionallythin
corneallayer. The stratumlerminativum is stronglydevelopedandthe
rlood contentjust below the surface'
ls but salivaryglandsarevery much
ra maintainthe moistureof the lips'
sparsely,the lips are almost entirely
freefrom fat. In very cold or dry weatherthe comeallayertendsto dry
out andproducecracledlips' Sincethe corneallayerofthe lipsis very
thin, and further,crackedin ary condition' alien substances
appliedon
the lips can quite easily penetrate
to-the stratumgerminativum' This is
;l*"i, to be kept in mind while making lipsticksand selectingingredi-
entsfor it.
Characters A lipstick shouldhavethe following characteristics:
(l) It shouldcoverthe lips adequately
with someglossand last for
long time.
(2) It shouldmakethe iiPssoft'
(3) The film mustadherefirmly to the lips without beingbrittle and
tackY.
(4) It shouldhavea gooddegree
of indelibility'
(5) It should have high retentionof colow intensity without any
changein shade'
(6) It shouldbe completelyfreefrom grittinessandbe non-drying'
(7) It shouldbe non-initatingto the skin of lips'
It shouldhavea desirabledegreeofplasticity'
It shouldhavea pleasant
odourand flavour'
Apart from the above, a lipstick should also have the following
lloragecharacteristics:-
(l) A smoothand shinYaPpearance'
(2) Freedomfrom bloom or sweating'
(3) A suitabledegreeof firmnessduring reasonablevariationsof
climatictemPerature'
(4) Retainplasticitywithout anytendencyto dry out or crumble'
composition
rhe
stick
mainrv
.,lltT'oli.ti#
frltTilt'*:T::
:d meltingPointandviscositY' The
between36oC to 38'C with liPs
rf the liPstickmust havea melting
between55"C to 75oCPreferablY
|andexPosure
to hot climates'
'l'he basic raw materialsrequiredfor formulating lipsticks can be
classified
as-
(l) Wax mixture
(2) Oil mixture
(3) Bromo mixture
(4) Colours
(5) Preservatives,
fragrances,
surfactants
andotheradditives
(l) Waxes
Glossand hardness
of lipsticksare largelydependent
9n
thl charac-
toristics
andquantityof thewaxesused' So'thecomposition
of thewax
mixtureisofprimeimportance.Bestcharacteristicscanbeobtainedby
;*i";
"
mixture of *u*", of different melting points and adjustingthe
iinoirn"fting point by incorporatinga sufficientamountof high melting
l,ii", **'
"Various
waxy materialsareusedin lipsticks'
(a) White beeswax: It is an-iTpgf* and useful cornponentof
llpstickbasewith *"tting point of 62-64'C' It usefullybindsoils and
highmeltingpoint waxesl it is u'ed in 3 to 10%of the total formula' It
rhrinks on cooling andthus helpspreparationof mouldedproducts' At
higherconcentration
ii producesa dull waxy appearance
and causes
the
rticksto crumbleduringuse'
(b) Candelillawax : It hasa meltingpoint of 65-6.9'Candis used
ln 5-10%. A mixtureof candelilla**
"ttd
beeswaxis very good for
(E)
(e)

26. 42 A HANDBOOK
OFCOSMETICS
making lipstick. If candelillawax is used a little in excessthan beeswax
the product gets a smooth and glossy appearance.
(c) Carnauba wax : It increasesthe melting point of the base and
hardensthe lipstick. It needsto be used in small amounts' It brings an
attractive lustre to the product. It's melting point is 80 to 88"C.
(d) Ozokerite wax : It is also mainly used to increasethe melting
point of the base. It melts at 60-80"C and is used in 3-l0o/o' If it is used
in excessthe sticks tend to crumble during application.
(e) Ceresin wax : it is also called paraffrn wax or mineral wax. It's
melting point is 60-75oC and is used in about 5Yoto increasemelting
point.
(f) Cetyl alcohol and cetostearyl alcohol : These two substances
are used in small amounts, in 2-3o/o,in the lipstick for emollient action
on the lip skin. The melting points are45-50"C and 42'45"C respectively.
At higher concentration (above 5%) they give a dull appearanceto the
lipstick which develops to a 'bloom' on storage. High concentration
also leadsto crystal formation, on storage,on the surfaceof the stick"
(2)oils
The oil mixture is required to blend properly with the waxes to
provide a suitable film on the applied lip skin. It also acts as a solvent
for eosin dyestuffs or as a dispersing agent for insoluble pigments. An
ideal rnixture is one which enables the product to spread easily and
producesa thin film with good covering power.
(a) Castor oil : Castor oil is used in many lipsticks becauseof its
good qualities, though nowadays some other oils or solvents are being
used. A refined grade castor oil is of good colour and is odourlessand
tasteless. Castor oil is a very good plasticising agent. An antioxidant is
to be added to the castor oil against rancidification though it is not as
prone to rancidification aSother vegetableoils like olive oil or almond
oil. High viscosity of castor oil makes the dispersion of pigments long
stable during the mixing and moulding stages of manufacture. Nor-
maliy, about 40-50% of castoroil is used. But when a higher proportion
is used the proporlion of high melting point waxes needsto be ad.iusted
to get a high melting point basemixture.
(b) Tetrahydrofurfuryl alcohol and its esters : This alcohol and
its esters like acetate, stearate, ricinoleate are also used in lipstick
preparation. The acetatehas very good solvent prclperty for the eosin
dye. But the volatile property of the solvent can lead to smudging of the
outline by evaporation from the hotter inner surface and deposition on
t'h 4 liKrNcoLoRANTS 43
lhc cooler edges. The acetate has an unpleasant taste and odour. But
tlourate and ricinoleate are lood and non-volatile but their solvent
ptopcrty is a little less.
(c) Fatty acid alkaylamides : They are non-volatile and have no
rrrrgrlcasant
tasteor odour. They increasethe stability of the lipsticks but
do rrothave emollient action. They help in dispersingthe pigments.
(d) Paraflin oil : It is used in not more than 5Toto give a glossy
Hpl)carance
after application. In higher proportion the oil will come off
llrc lips and run around the lips. It also acts as lubricant to facilitate
rerrrovalof sticks from the moulds after pouring.
(c) Isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate and butyl stearate :
llresc are also used to facilitate smooth application. Due to their low
rrrrlircetension they have a good wetting effect on insoluble dyes and
pigrncnts,and also act as mutual solventsfor oils and waxes. Presence
ol hinders is required to incorporate isopropyl myristate, otherwise it
trruyseparateout becauseof its low surfacetension.
Apart from the waxes and oils, sometime fats are incorporated in the
llJrslicks
to servethe purposeof giving more body to the film on the lips,
rrrroothing
the skin of the lips or softeningit. It alsohelpsin dispersion
ol'irrsoluble pigments. The substances
which are normally incorporated
sle cocoabutter (theobromaoil), hydrogenatedvegetablefats.
'l'hc useof acetoglycerides
hasalso beenrecommendedin lipsticks to
Irrrprove
thixotropic propertiesof sticks and to maintain constantviscos-
lly cvcn in higher temperature. They also improve the plasticity of the
fllttron the lips.
(l) Rromo Mixture
'l'he bromo mixture is, essentially,a solution of the staining dyestuff
Itr n fatty material to enable the dyestuff to remain either wholly or
gtnrtinllyin solution. Apart from the fatty rnaterialsmentioned earlier,
carluin other fatty materials have a specific function as a constituentof
hrurno mixture. This is the portion of the product which imparts an
Itrrlclible stain as distinct from the opaque film of colour given by
Inroluble pigments. As the present-daychoice is the product with high
rteining qualities instead of the product whioh covers the lips with a
lltlck film of vividly coloured materials,bromo mixture is widely used.
'l'hc
dyestuff of bromo mixture, known as bromo acids, consists of
fluuresceins,halogenatedfluoresceinsand related water insoluble dyes.
(lriginally the bromo acid name was given to acid eosin,
telrnhromofluorescein. Bromo acid colours can be classified broadlv

27. 44 A HANDB@K OF COSMETICS
into two groups,
thosewhichareredandgivea redor reddish-blue
stain,
andthosewhich areorange,
redandgivea pink to yellowish-pink
stain.
In general,lipstickformulations
arenot high stainingtypes,about2-37o
of bromoacidis used,normally,in castoroil andbutyl stearate
mixture.
Other solventsusedare tetrahydrofurfuryl
alcohol and esterslike
acetate,stearateand benzoate,glycerol derivativeslike glyceryl
monostearate,
glycerylmonolaurate
anddiethylene
glycol monostearate.
Propyleneglycol, triethyleneglycol and polyethylene
glycol are also
usedassuitablecoloursolvents.
A typicalexampleof bromomixtureis givenbelow:
Bromoacid
Propylene
glycol
Propylene
glycol monomyristate
15gm
200 gm
100gm
First a clear solution of bromo acid and propylene glycol is tq be
made by adding the bromo acid to propylene glycol. To this solution
propylene glycol monomyristate is to be added. This blend gives a
solution of bromo acid that easily mixes with mineral oil and castor oil
and producesa homogeneousmasswith waxes.
(4) Colours
The colour of the lipstick is most important from commercial and
appealing points of view. Up to 1920 carmine was widely used as a
lipstick pigment. As of today lots of dyestuffsand lakesare availableto
choose from.
The colour is imparted to the lips in two ways-
(a) By staining the skin with a srclution of dyestuff which can
penetratethe outer layer of the lip skin.
(b) By covering the lips with a coloured layer which servesto hide
any skin roughness and give a smooth appearance,
The first requirement is met by soluble dyes and the second one is
met by insoluble dyes and pigments which make the film more or less
opaque. Modern lipsticks contain both to achieve the combined effect.
The colours should be from the list of certified dyes under the Drugs and
Cosmetics Act.
(a) Staining dyes : The rnost widely used staining dyes are
fluorescein, eosin and often halogenatedfluorescein, which have been
mentioned under bromo acids. Fluorescein and its derivatives can
produce sensitization or photosensitizationleading to cheilitis (inflam-
mation of the red portinn of the lips).
Ch.4 SKIN COLORANTS 45
Also their water solubility characterposesproblem for formulation.
llut when water soluble dyes are converted to the free sulpho acid form,
tltoy becomewater-insoluble,lipophillic and suitable for use as staining
dycs.
(b) Insoluble dyestuffs and lake colours : These are the colouring
ngentswhich cover the thin layer over the lips. They consistof calcium,
hnrium, aluminium and strontium lakes. Calcium and barium lakes
prcparedfrom azotype dyestuffs are also used. These are called lake
frttrcrs. Thesedyestuffs are used in 10-15%dependingon the shadeand
opncity of the film. Aluminium lakes are not usually preferredbecause
ol'lheir lack of opacity, but they can be used in transparentlipsticks.
While making of lakes, the possibility of incompatibility with the
hnsehasto be considered.
'l'itanium dioxide is often used at levels up to lYo as white pigment
tirr brightening the colour, obtaining pink shades,and giving opacity to
thc llhn on the lips. This substanceshould be added with great care to
nvoid formulation problems like oily exudation, streaking,dullness and
coarsetexture.
(5) I'reservatives, Fragrances, Surfactants and Other Additives
It is very much essentialto include a preservativein the product to
Itrcvcnt microbial growth. 0.l% propyl parahydroxybenzoate,in 0.1%o,
ic used for this purpose. Higher concentration of 0.2o/ocan cause a
rlightly burning sensation or can initiate an eosin allergic reaction.
Otlreroil soluble preservativesalso can be used but compatibility has to
he considered.
Perfumesare an essentialcomponentto mask the odour of the fatty
lft wix baseas well as to impart an attractiveflavour. Perfumesare used
Itt the concentrationrungeof 2-4%. Specialconsiderationis to be given
kr sclectperfurnesfree of irritating effect and without disagreeabletaste
Ettd flavour. Since the users apprehendthe perfume in the mouth and
nosc, flavour must be taken care of along with odour. Perfume should
hc stableand compatible with the other constituentsof the lipstick base.
'l'ltr,fiagrancesshould not be very strong as to clash with or overpower
ollrcr perfumesthat may be used concurrently with the lipstick. Floral
etttllight spicy fragranceare much usedand acceptable. Perfumesof the
lirrit flavour type have been advocatedas well. Also something edible
cnttbe used.
Normally antioxidants are also suggested to be incorporated in
lipstick formulations to prevent rancidifioation of oily base during stor-

28. 46 A HANDBOOKOF COSMETICS
age. Cornbination of proper antioxidants are preferred for this purpose.
Antioxidants commonly used in lipsticks are butylated hydroxyanisore
(BHA), propyl gallate, butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT), citric acid,
2,5-di-tert-butylhydroquinone etc.
Surfactantsare occasionally added to the lipstick. They are used to
promote wetting and stabilize the dispersionof insoluble pigments in the
base. But such additives may influence the consistencyof the stick.
Some other materials have been suggestedfor use as additives to
enhancethe value of the make-up. oil-soluble sun-screensare used to
filter the sunsrays and protect lips from sun blisters. A silicon fluid can
be used as a fixative and to prevent colours from bleeding on the lips.
Polyvinyl pyrolidone is known "to form film on the lips and reduce
tendency towards allergenic reaction and is used in 0.5 to l%o. It also
helps in binding of dyestuff. Isopropyl linoleate is used to prevent
drying effects.
General Preparation of Lipsticks
Successful preparation of lipstick shades depends largely upon
adequate dispersion of the lake colours in the lipstick mass. It is
advisableto preparedispersionsof the lake colours in castoroil. Disper-
sionsare preferablypreparedby milling, generally as25Yoconcentrations,
in castor oil. Also ready-madedispersionsare available in the market
from manufacturersof cosmetic colours.
A general outline for the manufactureof lipsticks follows-
If a solvent is used for bromo acid, this solution is first preparedand
set aside until required. If commercial colour pastes (as mentioned
above) are not being used the lake colours are first dispersedby mixing
with suitable quantity (as 25%ow/w) of castor oil, and the colour paste
obtained is passedthrough a triple roll mill until it is smooth and free
from agglomeratesand gritty particles. If titanium dioxide is used in the
formula, the sameis also made into a pastesimilarly and mixed with the
colour mix. The colour mixtrlre is then mixed with the bromo-acid
mixture. All the ingredientsof the base are identified and arrangedin
order of increasing melting point. The lower melting point fats and
waxes are next melted together and mixed with colours and bromo
mixtures at the same temperature. This mixture is re-milled until
perfectly smooth. The preservativeand antioxidant is dissolved in any
remaining oil and addedto the mix. The high melting point waxes are
now melted and addedto the bulk at the sametemperature. The perfume
is f-rnally added anulthe mass stirred thoroughly blrt gently to avoid
('lr4 SKINCOLORANTS 47
enlrilpmentof air. The massshould not be melted after the high melting
point waxeshave beenadded. Gentlestirring is coritinueduntil the mass
lr lurrnogeneous
and it is then poured in lubricated moulds.
Automatic ejection mould is preferable for large quantitiesand split
trrouldsare satisfactoryfor small-scaleproduction. The mould is lubri-
urtcd with liquid paraffin or isopropyl myristate before'pouring the
rnnss. No excesslubricant should be left in the mould surface. The
ttrixcd massshould be poured into the mould at as low a temperatureas
ltrssible to prevent settling down of colours. Also the moulds may be
wnlrned before pouring the mass to avoid formation of ridges. After
porrling the mass the moulds are chilled to achieve contraction of the
wnxcsto facilitate easy removal of the sticks.
Automatic ejection moulds are fitted with a water iacket which is
lqctl to warrn or chill the mould as required.
l,lltstickFormulae
scveral representativelipstick formulae are listed below. Each for-
rrrrlrrcan be modified by a slight modification in proportions of oils and
tvnxcsand other ingredientsto adjustproper melting point, spreadability,
nrrtlthicknessof the film on the lips according to the particular charac-
f*r'islicsrequired. The formulae canvary in proportions of lake colours
enrl bromo acids. Titanium dioxides may or may not be part of the
lorrrrrrla
dependingon the requirement.perfume,preservative
and anti-
rrrrirlnnt
should be added in proper quantity to achieve the best effect.
FormulaI
Castor oil
Lanolin, anhydrous
Candelilla wax
Isopropyl myristate
White beeswax
Carnauba wax
Ozokerite wax
Eosin
Lakes
Roseflavour
Antioxidant
Preservative
Formula2
Beeswax
Ozokerite wax
54.0gm
11.0gm
9.0 gm
8.0gm
5.0 gm
3.0gm
3.0gm
2.0 gm
5.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
15.0gm
10.0gm

29. 49
48
Carnauba
wax
Ceresin
wax
Lanolin
Lanolin, anhydrous
Isopropylmyristate
Diethyl sebacate
Castoroil
Eosin
Colourlakes
Antioxidant
Perfume
Preservative
Formula3
Camauba wax
Candelilla wax
Ozokerite wax (white)
Bepswax,yellow
Paraffin
Hexadecyl stearate
Castor oil
Lanolin oil
Oleyl alcohol
Tenox II
Colour
Perfume
Antioxidant
Preservative
Formula 4
Castoroil
Beeswax
Paraffinoil
Lanolin
Cetylalcohol
Isopropylmyristate
Ozokeritewax
Carnauba
wax
Propylene
glycol
Propylene
glycolmonoricinoleate
Eosin
A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
5.0 gm
4.0 gm
5.0 gm
14.0gm
. 10.0gm
10.0gm
15.0gm
2.0 gm
10.0gm
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
3.5gm
7.5gm
3.5gm
4.0 gm
2.0 gm
8.0 gm
15.4gm
30.0gm
, 15.0gm
0.1gm
10.0gm
1.0gm
q.s.
q.s.
27.0em
-l
20.0gm
3.0 gm
5.0gm
2"0gm
3.0gm
10.0gm
2.5 gm
11.0gm
4.0 gm
2.5 gm
Formula5
Castoroil
Beeswax
Lanolin
Isopropyl mYristate
Ozokerite wax
Carnauba wax
PropyleneglYcol
Candelilla wax
Glycerin monostearate
Acetylated monoglyceride (solid)
Acetylated monoglyceride (liquid)
Eosin
Colour
Perfume
Antioxidant
Preservative
t
Fo.mula6
Carnauba wax
Candelilla wax
Ozokerite wax
Beeswax
Lanolin
Castor oil
IsoproPYl mYristate
Halogenatedfluorosceins
Lake colours
Propyl-p-hYdroxY benzoate
Perfume
Formula7
Castor oil
Butyl stearate
Abracol l.S.L.
Emulsenel2l2
T'h4 SKIN COLORANTS
Colour l0'0 gm
Perfume q's'
Antioxidant q's'
Preservative q's'.
l'lrcaboveproductis non-greasy
typewith goodstainingproperties'
39.0gm
5.0 gm
3.0gm
2.0 gm
5.0 gm
4.0 gm
6.0 gm
7.0 gm
3.0 gm
7.0 gm
5.0gm
2.0 gm
12.0gm
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
2.50gm
6.00gm
2.50gm
6.00gm
8.00 gm
55.00gm
4.00gm
3.00gm
12.00gnt
0.20gm
0.80gm
15.0gm
5.0 gm
7.0 gm
2.0 gm

30. 50
Beeswax
Spermaceti
Petroleumjelly
Hydrogenatedpalm kernel oil
Acid eosin
Titanium dioxide
Lake colour
Perfume
Antioxidant
Preservative
A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS;
20.0gm
10.0gm
12"0gm
15.0gm
1.0gm
1.0gm
12.0gm
q.s.
q.s
q.s.
i,h4 IiKINCOLORANTS 5I
nrrrllakes in dry form, mixed with standardpowder materials like talc,
rirr: stcarateand magnesium carbonate. Compact rouges additionally
rilrrtlrina binder and are compressedin tablet form. Compact rougesare
Irrolc popular than loose powder becausethey dust less on application
nrrrlrrtlherebetter to the skin dtte to presenceof binders'
According to the intensity of the pigment and the intendedcolouring
ellct:t of the powder, the pigment content is usually 5 to 20Yoof the
lrrw(lor mass. Pigments are, sometimes,wholly or partly replaced by
i'kes which produce more intense colour effect and are used in lesser
rilrrrrrtities.Rouges,sometimes,additionally contain water-solubledyes'
IrEtrlrrblecolorants remain on the skin, whereas,the soluble ones stain
tlre skin tissue itself. Stain should be loose and non-permanent. Some
lllrrstrativeexamples of powder rouges and compact rouges are given
lrr'low:
lrreparation Add the perfume with magnesiumcarbonateor starch
rrr'otlrer adsorbent,mix properly and keep it covered for half an hour'
Mix the remaining powders thoroughly and sieve through fine muslin'
Arld the
-ugn"rir-
carbonate and then the required colour' Mix
llrrrroughlyand store in a suitable oontainer'
(2) ROUGE
,.Rougecan be defined as the cosmetic preparationsused to apply a
colour to the cheeks.lThe colour can vary from the pur"rt orpint, to tt
"
deep blue reds but the conventionarroug" contains a high proportion of
red or reddish brown pigments. The tint or colour may be achieved by
using water-insoluble corours such as iron oxides and certain
organic pigments or by using water-sorubreorganic colours which actu-
ally stain the skin. products containi
colours are used as toners for specii
should be selectedcarefully to avo
proportion of a suitablebromo acir
and attractive blushing effect.
Over the years lots of changeshave occurred in rouge composition.
Ancient people used to colour their cheeks with a .olot, ,"u**"d o,
cinnabar'
-Later
people startedusing red ochre, vermitiorr,'"oct ineat or
extracts of sandalwood or brazilwood. In the early tweniies the tiquid
rouges' dry rougesor greaserougesbasicaily containing i"."'ni.",
"ori",
etc. were used.
One of the oldest forms of rouge is the type known as cream rouge.
I,T^:od"rl rouge preparationsthe pigments or corours are present in
different form of carriers unrt uc"ordingry can be classified into four
types but dry rouge is the most .o-rnoJy und *id.ly ur.a fp"_
(l) Powderrouges
(2) Anhydrous creamrouges/wax basedrouges
(3) Emulsion cream rouges
(4) Liquid rouges
(l) Powder rouges :r-powderrougesare normally marketedas loose
powders and compressedpowders or compacts. They contain pigments
FOWI}ER ROUGE,S
FormulaI
Zinc stearate
Rice starch
Talc
Pigments
Perfume
FormulaJ-
Magnesium carbonate (light)
Precipitated chalk
Zinc oxide
Rice starch
Talc
Pigments
Perfume
Zinc oxide
Lanolin
14.5gm
14.5gm
55.0gm
14.0gm
2.0 gm
8.3 gm
16.6gm
8.3 gm
12.4gm
37.4gm
15.0gm
,.9 E!
8.5gm
25.5gm
Formulap

31. 53
52
Compact rouges can be made by dry processor wet process. In dry
process the powdered binder, such as tragacanth, acacia,is added in the
mix and compressed. The binder is used as l% of the total mass. As an
alternative binding material small amounts of a lanolin derivative and
isopropyl myristate can be used. Zinc oxide is also used, in 5-r0yo,to
increaseadhesion. Metallic stearatesare arso essentialcomponentsof
compact rouges as dry binders and to increaseadhesionof the products
to the skin.
In wet processthe binding agent is preparedseparatelyand is made
of materials like tragacanthgum, a mixture of soap and tragacanthgum,
and polyvinyl pyrrolidone. The binding agent is mixed with other
materials and compressedto cake.
5.0 gm
5.0 grn
5.0 gm
5.0gm
75.0gm
5.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
50/owlw
50ohwlw
Mix the binding materials together' Mix perfume with magnesrum
lnrhonate and add ,o tt'" bindilng materials' Add to the remaining
irrgrcclients
and mix well' Grind and compressinto godets'
l;or compactsby wet process,any of the basic formulae of dry rouges
rurrhc mixed with the following binding agents:
Tragacanth
l '0 gm
Alcohol
2'0 gm
Water 97'o gm
Methyl parahydroxy benzoate 0'2 o/oof the above
Mix the tragacanth with alcohol and then add water in a continuous
blrcunland stir well. Allow to standfor 24 hours with stining occasion-
nlly, and passthrough muslin' Preservativeis to be dissolved in water
wiilr hcat before adding to the tragacanth'
Tragacanth
l '3 gm
Soa! chips 4'o gm
water 94'7 gm
Methyl parahydroxy benzoate 0'2 o/oof the above
Itropare a concentrated solution of the soap chips with suffrcient hot
wrrlcr atrd use this to-prepare a tragacanth paste' Add the remaining
wrrlcrin a continuous streamand mix well'
Allow to stand tbr 24 hours with stining occasionally' and pass
tlrrorrghmuslin before use' Dissolve the preservativein water with the
,ri,l ,,1 heat before adding to the soap tragacanth mix'
'l'lrc binding agent is added, in sufficient amount' to the coloured
lrowtlcr mix to prepare a fairly damp paste' This is then pressed into
gorlcls hy subjecting it to a graOuattyincreasing pressure or moulded to
e rlclinite shape' The Uio"tti are thln dried at normal temperature in a
Magnesiumcarbonate
(light)
Talc
Pigments
Perfume
Formula l l
Kaolin /
Zinc oxide
Magnesiumstearate
Zinc stearate
Magnesiumcarbonate
Talc
Colours
Perfume
Formula
12
Talc
Kaolin
Zinc stearate
Zinc oxide
Magnesium
carbonate
Rice starch
Titaniumdioxide
Colours
Perfume
A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
17.0gm
34.0gm
13.0gm
2.0 gm
16.0gm
12.0gm
2.0 gm
1.0gm
3.0gm
60.0gm
6.0 gm
q.s.
t,h"{ SKIN COLORANTS
Formul*!l'
Kaolin
Calciumcarbonate
Magnesiumcarbonate
Zinc stearate
Talc
Pigments
Perfume
Binder
BINDER
IsopropYlmYristate
Lanolin absorPtion
base
48.0gm
16.0gm
6.0 gm
5.0gm
5.0 gm
10.0gm
4.0 gm
6.0 gm
q.s.
Mix the perfume with magnesium carbonate and keep aside with
cover. Mix other ingredients thoroughly. Add magnesium carbonate
and mix. Add colour and mix and then compress.

32. i'i
Ih1 SKINCOLORANTS
54 A HANDBOoK
oF cosMETrcs
current of air. Undue heating should be avoided as it can split thc
product and can vaporize the perfume. During drying they are kept on
blotting paper to absorb excess moisture. After drying they are trimmecl
with a special rotating knife to give a perfectly smooth finish to the
surface. Then they are stuck with a suitable adhesiveto the baseof the
container.
(2) Anhydrous cream rouges/wax based rouges : In this type the
base is wax type. They resemblethe lipstick but are normally of bigger
size. In these rouges the colours are dispersedin a fat-oil-wax base.
They have advantagesover powder rouges. They form a coniinuou,
film on the skin which looks more natural than loose powder;' As these
basesare water-repellentthey avoid the risk of perspiration and making
the make-up run. The melting point of the base should not be below
40"C and is often 60oC or above. Occasionally these rouges are
formulated as thixotropic preparation, so that, they can be solid in the
container but liquefu when pressedon the skin and spreadeasily. To
achieve the thixotropic characterhigh melting point waxes are required
to form a skeleton to accommodatethe oil. Microcrystalline waxes or
amorphous substances
to prevent the sweating of the oils.
Mix and grind the lakestogether' Mix oils' fats' and waxesin
lrrrrcrrsing
meltingpoint andheaito just abovethe meltingpoint of the
i,igf
'"*t
tn'"tring
**. Stit pigments
intoth: melt andgrindthemixturea
lewtirrres
on a heated
,.ipf" iofftt mill' Add perfume
towards
theendof
llf( l(rcsq.
(J) Emulsion cream rouges : These are popular becauseof their
ente rtf application unJ
"*
b"eof the cold cream or of the vanishing
, r.,,,rl typ". From a dermatologicalpoint of view' thesepreparationsare
rr,,t n., teneficial as in the preience of wetting and emulsiffing.agents
allitl rlye particles
"un "u'ity
penetratethe skin through hair follicles and
qlrrrll fissures. If not remtved soon it can also cause irritation' So'
j,r,,i,.,
"f"*lng
with cleansingcream is very important while using this
ly;rcrl['rouges.
Water-solubledyes are often used in these preparationsto stain the
clttt. llowever, insoluble pigments are also used but must be as finely
rlt'.1telscd
as possible' When water-solublecolours are used' it is neces-
silrv lo incorporate sufficient quantity of hygroscopic substanceslike
gir'.",.trt,glycols, sorbitol to preYentevaporationof water and darkening
rl llrc cream surface. The preparationscan be made using beeswax-
lrorirxcombination or by using a separateemulsiffing agent'
Stearicacid
Lakes
Perfume
16.0gm
5.5gm
q.s.
Formula14
Beeswax
Petrolatum (short fibre)
Castor oil (semi-hydrogenated)
Paraffin oil
Lanolin (light)
Lakes
Perfurne
Forrnula 15
Petrolatum(shortfibre)
Isopropylmyristate
Lanolin(light)
Glyceryl monostearate
Lakes
Perfume
Formula 16
Ceresin
Petrolatum(shortfibre)
Paraffinoil
16.0gm
4.0 gm
54.0gm
ll.0 gm
5.0gm
10.0gm
q.s
40.0gm
35.0gm
5.0 gm
12.0gm
8.0 gm
q.s
32.5gm
13.5gm
2.5 gm
Lanolin
Cocoa butter
Beeswax
Liquid paraffin
Cetyl alcohol
Water
Borax
Colour
Perfumes
Preservative
Petrolatum(short fibre)
Beeswax
IsopropYlmYristate
Formula 17
4.0 gm
4.0 gm
14.0gm
26'0 gm
1.0gm
44.2gm
0.8 gm
7'0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
Formula 18
20.0gm
14.0gm
30.0gm