Contents: 1. Apparel 2. Apparel Manufacturing 3. Difference Between Tailoring and Industrial Methods for Apparel Making 4. Apparel Manufacturing Sequence 5. Terms Related Apparel Manufacturing 6. Difference between F.O.B. , C&F, CIF 7. Sample 8. Different types of Samples 9. Difference between Approved Sample & Counter Sample 10. Fabric Used in Apparel Sector 11. Components of A Basic Shirt 12. Components of A Basic Trouser 13. Pattern 14. Pattern Making Method 15. Pattern Making Tools 16. Marker 17. Marker Efficiency 18. Factors Related to Marker Efficiency 19. Points to be considered before marker making 20. Methods of Marker Making 21. Manual Method 22. Computerized Marker Making

1. GREEN UNIVERSITY OF BANGLADESH
Department Of Textile
ASSIGNMENT
Remarks:
Course Code : TE 206
Course Title : Apparel Manufacturing I
Submitted To:
Name : Mr. Md. Ashraful Alam
Designation : Lecturer
Department : Textile
Submitted By:
Name : Md. Rakibul Hassan
ID : 183014057
Section : E1
Department : Textile
Date Of Performance : 21-08-2020
Date Of Submission : 03-09-2020
Assignment Topic : Learning Reflection of Mid Term Syllabus

2. TE 206
Apparel Manufacturing I
Topics Content On Mid Term:
1. Apparel
2. Apparel Manufacturing
3. Difference Between Tailoring and Industrial Methods for Apparel Making
4. Apparel Manufacturing Sequence
5. Terms Related Apparel Manufacturing
6. Difference between F.O.B. , C&F, CIF
7. Sample
8. Different types of Samples
9. Difference between Approved Sample & Counter Sample
10. Fabric Used in Apparel Sector
11. Components of A Basic Shirt
12. Components of A Basic Trouser
13. Pattern
14. Pattern Making Method
15. Pattern Making Tools
16. Marker
17. Marker Efficiency
18. Factors Related to Marker Efficiency
19. Points to be considered before marker making
20. Methods of Marker Making
21. Manual Method
22. Computerized Marker Making
My Learning Reflection In Mid Term:
From my mid term syllabus, I have learnt a lot of things. I would like to thanks my course teacher for
his friendly behaviour & unique teaching system. Now I am sharing all my learning reflection of
“Apparel Manufacturing I” by serial. First thing I have learnt is Apparel-
Apparel:
Apparel is a wearable thing made from fabric by sweing according to a standard body measurement.
After that I have learnt about apparel manufacturing-
Apparel manufacturing:
Apparel manufacturing is a process in which a fully complete apparel is made. The process by which
a complete apparel is made is known as Apparel Manufacturing.
I have also learnt the difference berween Tailoring method & Industrial method for Apparel
Making. Defference between tailoring method & industrial method is noted bellow:
Tailoring Method Industrial Method
In this method, apparel is made according to its
owner’s body measurement.
In this method, apparel is made according to a
standard/specific body measurement.
It takes more time to complete an apparel It takes less time to complete an apparel.

3. Investment cost is low. Investment cost is high.
In this method, apparel can be made by using
only 1 or 2 machines.
In this method, it needs many and different of
machine to make apparel.
Only one or two persons are required to make a
garment.
In this method, many persons are needed to make
a garment.
No needed for pattern grading. Pattern grading id required in this method.
In this method, fabric wastage is high.
In this method, fabric wastage is comparatively
less.
Small place is required. Large place is required.
I have learnt the sequence of apparel manufacturing.
Apparel Manufacturing Sequence:
Receive Tec pack from buyer
↓
Basic Block
↓
Working Pattern Making
↓
Sample Making
↓
Identifying Basic Manufacturing Difficulties
↓
Sample Approval
↓
Production Pattern Making
↓
Pattern Grading
↓
Marker Making
↓
Fabric Spreading
↓
Cutting
↓
Sorting & Bundling
↓
Embellishment(if required)
↓
Sewing
↓
Inspection
↓
Washing (if required)
↓
Ironing
↓
Folding
↓

4. Packing
↓
Cartoning
↓
Final Inspection
↓
Ex- Factory
↓
Ship Out
Now I am sharing the detail of all the process:
Receive Tec pack from buyer: This is first process of Apparel Manufacturing. The Buyer sends all
the information about order
Basic Block: According to the informations, the buyer from factory makes a basic block without any
allowance.
Working Pattern Making: According to basic block they make a pattern.
Sample Making: After making pattern, they make a sample ready and send it to the buyer.
Identifying Basic Manufacturing Difficulties: The buyer check the sample, if there is some problem
with sample the buyer indicates this and sends back.
Sample Approval: Then the factory correct all the mistakes and send the sample to the buyer once
again.
Production Pattern Making: When the buyer says everything is okay with sample, the factory
makes pattern.
Pattern Grading: Transferring from one size to another is called grading like M size, L size etc
Marker Making: The marker is set upside the fabric and mark the fabric in order to cut.
Fabric Spreading: The fabric is spreaded in the ground and they are ready for cutting process.
Cutting: They cut the fabric using cutting machines.
Sorting & Bundling: After cutting, they sort the fabric according to size, and they bundle them for
tore.
Embellishment: The fabric are made clean for next process.
Sewing: In this process, a normal apparel is made by sewing.
Inspection: Then the apparel are checked if there any faults.
Washing: The apparel is washed if needed
Ironing: The apparel is ironed for better looking and comfort.

5. Folding: They fold the apparel for packing.
Packing: The fold apparel is packed in this process.
Cartoning: The packing apparel is gone for cartooning for shipment.
Final Inspection: In this process everything is checked once again for last time.
Ex-Factory: The products is gone to ex-factory for shipment.
Ship Out: This is the last process, the final product is sent to the buyer by shipping process.
After the sequence of apparel manufacturing, I have learnt Some terms that are related with
apparel & apparel manufacturing. I am sharing those terms bellow:
Allowance:
Garments are produced adding some extra measurement with the body measurement which is called
allowance.
Bartack: A process of sewing within a very small length to increase load bearing capacity.
Button Size: The crosswise measurement of a button is called button size which is generally
expressed as linge. 1 linge=0.635mm
Blind Stitch: A special type of stitch which sew the fabric by partially penetrating the fabric instead
of full penetrating.
Collar: It is a part of garment remains extended round the neck.
Cuff: It is the most lower part of the sleeve of a shirt. It belongs to the sleeve part to attach button.
Disposable Garment: The garment which is used one time only. Such as mask, medical hat, gloves
etc..
Dimensional Stability: The quality of retention of dimension shape or size of fabrics or garments is
called dimensional stability.
Drape: If a fabric is hung from an end then the appearance that appears at the hanging end of the
fabric is called drape.
Facing: Along the ends of some parts of garments one layer of fabric is sewn inside is called facing.
Fusing: The process with the help of which fusible interlining is attached with the garment parts is
called fusing.
Gathering: The process of sewing the fabric by shortening the length through small folds or wrinkles
is called gathering.
Grain: The lengthwise direction of fabric is called as grain.

6. Interlining: In certain part of garment a special layer of fabric is used between two layers of fabric
or shape retention as well as increasing the strength is called as interlining.
Lining: The fabric which covers the garments fabric from the inner side of the garment is called
lining.
Pleat: In certain garments, fabric is folded and sewn with another fabric to enhance beautification as
well as easing on free movement is called as pleat.
Ligne: It is a unit of measuring comparatively smaller width. The ligne is used for measuring the
width of button, ribbons.
Marker: The total patterns of a garment are drawn in a planned way mainly on paper and which is
used for cutting of fabric by spreading nit on the fabric layers, is called marker.
Moulding: The process of giving desired shape of a garment parts with the help of a die by applying
heat and pressure is called moulding.
Pressing: The process of making crease on the parts of fabrics by folding it is called pressing.
Pattern: The replica, shape or template of a part of a garment is called the pattern.
Seam: The line along which one piece or multiple pieces of fabrics are joined by sewing is called as
seam.
Stitch: Each of the unit of sewing made with sewing thread is called the stitch.
Trimmings: Without main fabric, all other parts which are used in a garments is called trimmings. In
a garment, except the main fabric all other parts needed are termed as trimmings.
Ticket Number: The number which is used to show how much the sewing thread is thinner or thicker
is called ticket number.
After some related terms, I have also learnt the difference of F.O.B. , C&F, CIF
Difference between F.O.B. , C&F, CIF:
F.O.B.:
If the value of sold goods is mentioned in the invoice excluding the transportation cost, then it is
termed as F.O.B.
C&F:
If the value of sold goods is mentioned in the invoice including the transportation costs, then it is
called as C&F.
CIF:
In case of CIF the value of sold goods are mentioned with both transportation cost & insurance cost.
I have learnt about Sample, Different types of Sample, Difference between Approved
sample & Counter sample. Now I am sharing these:

7. Sample:
A few item or goods taken from a large number of similar goods are called sample. Sample represents
the bulk apparel. When a few number of item or garments are taken from large number of apparel for
checking, those few items are called Sample. It could be one item, it could be two.
Different types of Samples:
There are so many types of Sample. From some of them is noted bellow:
1. Development Samples
2. Salesmen Sample or Promotional Samples
3. Fit Samples
4. Photo Samples
5. Counter or Reference Samples
6. Pre-production Samples
7. Production Samples
8. Shipping Sample
9. Size set Sample
Difference between Approved Sample & Counter Sample:
I have learnt Some fabric used in apparel sector. There are mainly three types of fabric are used in
apparel sector. Now I am sharing them:
Fabric Used In Apparel Sector:
Mainly three types of fabric are used in apparel sector, they are-
1. Woven Fabric
2. Knitted Fabric
3. Non-Woven Fabric
Woven Fabric:
Most commonly used Woven fabric are bellow-
1. Plain Weave Fabric
2. Voile
3. Poplin
4. Chambray
5. Taffeta
6. Georgette
7. Chiffon etc..
Approved Sample Counter Sample
The sample which is approved by the
Buyer is called approved sample.
The sample which remain to manufacturer
after sending sample to Buyer for approval
is called counter sample.
This sample should be kept by the Buyer
as their reference.
This sample should be kept by the
manufacturer as their reference.
Approved sample should not be used in
bulk production.
Counter sample should be used in bulk
production and hanged in sewing floor
during sewing
If required, Buyer gives comments on
Approved sample
Counter should be rectified according to
this comments.
Sample is required for order collection. Counter sample is required for smooth
bulk production.

8. Knitted Fabric:
1. 100% Cotton Single Jersy
2. Lycra Single Jersy
3. Single & Double Lacoste
4. Pique
5. Rib
6. Interlock etc
Non Woven Fabric:
1. Mesh Backing Fabric.
I have got to know something so important. That is Componenets of a basic Shirt & a basic Trouser.
It is so important because In apparel industry we must have knowledge about Shirt & Trouser and
their Components. Components of a basic Shirt & Trouser is bellow:
Components of A Basic Shirt:
Major Components of A Basic Shirt:
1. Collar
2. Collar band/ stand
3. Upper yoke
4. Lower yoke
5. Left front part
6. Right front part
7. pocket
8. Sleeve
9. Cuff
10. Back part
11. Facing
12. Button Stand

9. Components of A Basic Trouser:
Major Components of A Basic Trouser:
1. Waist Band
2. Belt Loop
3. Side Pocket
4. Fly Piece
5. Back Pocket
6. Front Part(Right & Left)
7. Back Part(Right & Left
I have learnt about Pattern, Pattern making method. Those are written down bellow:
Pattern:
Pattern is template of all components of garments which is made by drawing on hard paper following
each & individual component’s measurement.
Pattern Making Steps:
The pattern is made in two steps in garments industry-
1. Block Pattern
2. Garments Pattern
Block Pattern:
Block Pattern or Basic Block is individual components of garments without any style , design &
allowances. It is produced acc. To exact dimension of standard body measurement.
Block Pattern is made in two ways-
a. Flat Method
b. Modeling
Garments Pattern:
Garments pattern is made on the basis of block pattern or basic block. Allowances ie sewing, washing
, trimmings; styles , designs like dart ,pleat , button hole shrinkage etc are considered . Individual
block pattern is laid /drawn on hard paper or board paper to copy the block pattern. In garments
pattern grain line isindicated by arrow mark. U or V notch/cut mark is marked on pattern for accurate
cutting & sewing. After drawing , pattern parts are separated from board paper by knife . Size and
individual part’s name are written on every part.

10. Pattern Making Tools:
To make pattern we use some tools that help us to make pattern properly. Those tools are bellow:
1. Pencil/Fine point sharp marker
2. Measuring Tape
3. Ruler
4. Curved Ruler
5. Scotch Tape
6. Scissor
7. Pin
8. Tracing wheel
9. Tracing Paper
10. Set Square
11. Tailor Chalk etc
Then I have also learnt about Marker, Marker making method, Marker efficiency, Manual marker
method & Computerized marker method and some other things that are written bellow:
Marker:
Marker is a piece of paper on which all size patterns of a garment are drawn so that the required
number of garments can be made using the minimum quantity of fabrics.
Marker Efficiency:
The percentage of the total fabric that is actually used in garment parts.
Marker Efficiency =
Area of Pattern in the Marker
Total area of the marker plan
× 100%
Factors related to marker efficiency:
Marker Planner:
Marker efficiency depends on technical knowledge ,experience ,skill , effort & sincerity of marker
planner .The greater the number of times the marker will be made ,the higher the
possibility of getting better marker efficiency.
Size of garments:
The more the number of the pattern sizes are included ,the more possibility to get better efficiency.
Marker length:
Higher the marker length higher the efficiency . It also increases the production of cutting room.

11. Marker Width:
Generally marker width depends on fabric width . The greater the width of a marker, the easier for
the marker man to plan the marker. And the possibility of getting better marker efficiency.
Fabric Characteristics: Symmetrical fabrics are those which are similar to all directions when rotate
at 180 degree angle. Marker efficiency is good in these type of fabric. Asymmetrical are those which
fabrics are not similar to all direction when rotate at 180 degree angle. So, marker efficiency will be
less for these type of fabrics.
Marker Making Method: Mainly there are two methods for marker making –manual marker &
computer aided marker. If the computer aided marker is done , the efficiency becomes greater than
manually done marker.
Garment Type: The garments where big sizes patterns are greater than small sizes patterns such as
overcoat etc ,less marker efficiency is obtained. But in the garments where the number of small size
patterns are more, comparatively the higher efficiency is obtained.
Methods Of Marker Making:
There are two methods of marker making. They are-
1. Manual Method
2. Computerized Marker Making
1. Manual Method:
In this process, marker can be made in two ways-
1. By using full size pattern:
a. full size pattern pieces on marker paper or
b. directly on the top ply of the fabric in a spread
2. By using miniaturized pattern:
a. full size pattern pieces are reduced to 1/5 of its original size by
using pantograph
b. made by plastic sheet or thick board paper
c. marker planning is done by using those miniaturized patterns
d. reproduced full size using the mini-marker as a reference
Features of Manual Marker Making:
a. Time consuming and require a great deal of space
b. Errors and inconsistencies that may occur in grain variation,
c. Poor line definition, placement and alignment of pieces and slip of the pieces
d. Accuracy of a manually made marker depends on the skill of the individual who laid out the
marker and traced it.
2. Computerized Marker Making:
a. very accurate and provides the greatest opportunity for pattern manipulation, marker
efficiency and shortest response time
b. Production patterns may be developed on the computer or digitized or scanned in to the
computer
c. parameters for markers are entered in to the computer from cutting orders - style numbers,
size distribution and fabric width
d. Protective devices are built in to the programs to ensure the grain alignment and prevent
overlapping of pieces.

12. Advantages of Computerized Method:
a. Increases in material efficiency with subsequent decreases in material waste,
b. Time and labor savings in making markers;
c. Improvements in overall marker quality;
d. Avoidance of backlogs during peak periods; and
e. Fast, precise cost proposals for clients.
Disadvantages Of Computerized Method:
a. Initial investment is high.
b. Skilled operator is required.
Conclusion:
From my mid term syllabus from “Apparel Manufacturing I”, I have learnt a lot of things about
Apparel Manufacturing. The most usefull topics that I learnt are The sequence of Apparel
Manufacturing, Sample Making, Maarker Making, Pattern grading etc. After completting my mid
term syllabus I am now totally owned all ther knowledge about Apparel Manufacturing. And I hope
that this knowledge will be usefull & will help me in my professional life.
I am hopeful that after Final syllabus of Apparel Manufacturing I will acknowledge rest of the
knowledge of apparel manufacturing. I would like to thanks my course teacher Mr Ashraful Alam
once again. Thank you sir for everything.
—The End—
Submitted by
Md Rakibul Hassan
Id: 183014057