Design/ Sketch : For designing the
sketch of the dress to be manufactured.
Rough sketches which are analyzed by
panel of designers. Few are selected to
form a pattern.
Pattern Design : The pattern maker now
develops first pattern for the design in
any one standard size. This is made by
pattern drafting method and the
purpose of making this pattern is to
create the sample garment for test fit.
Sample Making : First few patterns are
sent into assembling unit. Usually stitched
on calico or muslin to reduce cost. The
sample created is analyzed for pattern
fit and design. It is then reviewed by
panel of designers for rectification if any.
Production Pattern : Pattern design is now
made into production pattern for mass
production. It is usually made on basis paper.
Usually method of CAD/CAM is preferred over
manual method. Measurements include 1.
Direct Sample, 2. measurement chart, 3.
Actual body size, 4. Easy allowance, 5.
Grading : Purpose is to create patterns
in different standard sizes. Patterns can
be large, medium or small. Usually the
changes are made through CAD/CAM as
manual process of grading is
Marker Marking : Marking is an
important step to assess the optimum
need of fabric in garment manufacturing.
Markers with help of adhesive are
attached to fabric so that minimum
amount of fabric gets wasted during
Spreading : With the help of
spreading machines, fabric is
stacked on one another in reaches
or lays that may go over 100 ft (30.5
m) long and hundreds of plies (fabric
Cutting : fabric is cut
with help of cloth
cutting machine. The
band cutters have
rotary blades and
which can saw up and
down. Nowadays laser
beams are used to cut
the fabric in desired
Sorting/Bundling : The
cloths are sorted
according to their size and
design in bundles. This
step requires much
precision because making
bundles of mismatched
patterns can create severe
problems. A marker is
attached with each bundle
along with a style size
Sewing/Assembling : Sewing
stations in which different parts
of cut pieces are stitched
together. There are many
operators who perform single
operation. One operator may
make only straight seams, while
another may make sleeve
insets. Yet another two
operators can sew the waist
seams, and make buttonholes.
Finally, the sewn parts of the
garment, such as sleeves or
pant legs, are assembled
together to give the final form
to the clothing.
Inspection : Open seams,
wrong stitching techniques,
non- matching threads, and
missing stitches, improper
creasing of the garment,
erroneous thread tension
and raw edges are some of
the sewing defects which
can affect the garment
quality adversely. During
processing the quality
control section needs to
check each prepared article
against these defects
Pressing/Finishing : Molding may
be done to change the finished
surface of the garment by applying
pressure, heat, moisture, or
certain other combination.
Pressing, pleating and creasing
are the basic molding processes.
Creasing is mostly done before
other finishing processes like that
of stitching a cuff. Vertical and form
presses is automated machines.
Perform simple pressing
operations, such as touching up
wrinkles in knit shirts, around
embroidery and snaps, and at
difficult-to-reach places on
Garment defects : Broken or defective buttons, snaps, stitches, different shades within the same garment, dropped stitches, exposed
notches and raw edges, fabric defects, holes, faulty zippers, loose or hanging sewing threads, misaligned buttons and holes, etc. all can lead
to the end of a brand name even before its establishment.
Sizing Defects : Wrong gradation of sizes, difference in measurement of various parts of a garment like sleeves
of XL size for body of L size garment can deteriorate the garments beyond repair.
Color defects : Variation of color between the sample and the final garment, wrong color combinations and
mismatching dyes should always be avoided.
Sewing Defects : Open seams, wrong stitching techniques, non- matching threads, missing stitches, improper creasing of the garment,
erroneous thread tension and raw edges are some of the sewing defects which can affect the garment quality adversely.