Writing a letter to my friend telling him about my learning reflection of “Apparel Manufacturing I"

1. GREEN UNIVERSITY OF BANGLADESH
Department Of Textile
ASSIGNMENT
Remarks:
Course Code : TE 206
Course Title : Apparel Manufacturing I
Submitted By:
Name : Md Rakibul Hassan
ID : 183014057
Section : E1
Department : Textile
Date Of Submission : 13-09-2020
Assignment On : Writing a letter to my friend telling him about my
learning reflection of “Apparel Manufacturing I”
Submitted to:
Name : Mr. Md Ashraful Alam
Designation : Lecturer
Department : Textile

2. Letter To My Friend About Learning Reflection Of Apparel Manufacturing I
13 September 2020
Dear Akash,
First of all, Take my love. I hope you are well by the grace of Almighty Allah. I am also well & doing
Alhamdulillah great. You know that my new semester was started few months ago & you will be glad
to know that my mid term examination is completed.
And today I will share with you my learning reflection from first class (3 July 2020) to last class (4
September 2020) of Apparel Manufacturing I. The name of the teacher of this course is Mr. Ashraful
Alam, He is a nice guy & very friendly with us. He taught us with his unique teaching system. Now
I am sharing my learning reflection one by one--
3 July 2020 (1st
Class)
From the first class of apparel manufacturing I have learnt three major things. They are- What is
apparel? What is apparel manufacturing? and Difference between tailoring method and industrial
method.
What is apparel?
Apparel is a wearable thing or item which is made from fabric by sewing according to a standard
body measurement.
What is Apparel Manufacturing?
It’s a very easy question. If you know what is Apparel then you will definitely know the meaning of
Apparel Manufacturing. The process by which a complete apparel is made is known as Apparel
Manufacturing.
Difference between Tailoring method & Industrial method for Apparel Making:
Tailoring Method Industrial Method
In this method, apparel is made according
to its owner’s body measurement
In this method, apparel is made according
to a standard/specific body measurement.
It takes more time to complete an apparel It takes less time to complete an apparel.
Investment cost is low Investment cost is high.
In this method, apparel can be made by
using only 1 or 2 machines
In this method, it needs many and
different of machine to make apparel.
Only one or two persons are required to
make a garment.
In this method, many persons are needed
to make a garment.
No needed for pattern grading. Pattern grading id required in this method.
In this method, fabric wastage is high.
In this method, fabric wastage is
comparatively less.
Small place is required. Large space is required.
Only one garment is made at a time in this
method.
In this method, lot of garments are made
at a time.
That was the outcome of my first class of Apparel manufacturing I. Now I am sharing the 2nd
one-

3. 10 July 2020 (2nd
Class)
In this class our course teacher discussed about the sequence of apparel manufacturing. And I learnt
this sequence.
Sequence of Apparel Manufacturing:
Receive Tec pack from buyer
↓
Basic Block
↓
Working Pattern Making
↓
Sample Making
↓
Identifying Basic Manufacturing Difficulties
↓
Sample Approval
↓
Production Pattern Making
↓
Pattern Grading
↓
Marker Making
↓
Fabric Spreading
↓
Cutting
↓
Sorting & Bundling
↓
Embellishment(if required)
↓
Sewing
↓
Inspection
↓
Washing (if required)
↓
Ironing
↓
Folding
↓
Packing
↓
Cartoning
↓
Final Inspection
↓
Ex-Factory
↓
Ship Out

4. Details of all the process:
Receive Tec pack from buyer: This is first process of Apparel Manufacturing. The Buyer sends all
the information about order.
Basic Block: According to the informations, the buyer from factory makes a basic block without any
allowance.
Working Pattern Making: According to basic block they make a pattern.
Sample Making: After making pattern, they make a sample ready and send it to the buyer.
Identifying Basic Manufacturing Difficulties: The buyer check the sample, if there is some problem
with sample the buyer indicates this and sends back.
Sample Approval: Then the factory correct all the mistakes and send the sample to the buyer once
again.
Production Pattern Making: When the buyer says everything is okay with sample, the factory
makes pattern.
Pattern Grading: Transferring from one size to another is called grading like M size, L size etc.
Marker Making: The marker is set upside the fabric and mark the fabric in order to cut.
Fabric Spreading: The fabric is spreaded in the ground and they are ready for cutting process.
Cutting: They cut the fabric using cutting machines.
Sorting & Bundling: After cutting, they sort the fabric according to size, and they bundle them for
store.
Embellishment: The fabric are made clean for next process.
Sewing: In this process, a normal apparel is made by sewing.
Inspection: Then the apparel are checked if there any faults.
Washing: The apparel is washed if needed
Ironing: The apparel is ironed for better looking and comfort.
Folding: They fold the apparel for packing.
Packing: The fold apparel is packed in this process.
Cartoning: The packing apparel is gone for cartooning for shipment.
Final Inspection: In this process everything is checked once again for last time.
Ex-Factory: The products is gone to ex-factory for shipment.
Ship Out: This is the last process, the final product is sent to the buyer by shipping process.

5. 17 July 2020 (3rd
Class)
In this class I have learnt some related terms like – allowance, barteck, button size, blind stitch,cuff
etc.
Allowance: Garments are produced adding some extra measurement with the body measurement
which is called
allowance.
Bartack: A process of sewing within a very small length to increase load bearing capacity.
Button Size: The crosswise measurement of a button is called button size which is generally
expressed as linge. 1 linge=0.635mm
Blind Stitch: A special type of stitch which sew the fabric by partially penetrating the fabric instead
of full penetrating.
Collar: It is a part of garment remains extended round the neck.
Cuff: It is the most lower part of the sleeve of a shirt. It belongs to the sleeve part to attach button.
Disposable Garment: The garment which is used one time only. Such as mask, medical hat, gloves
etc..
Dimensional Stability: The quality of retention of dimension shape or size of fabrics or garments is
called dimensional stability.
Drape: If a fabric is hung from an end then the appearance that appears at the hanging end of the
fabric is called drape.
Facing: Along the ends of some parts of garments one layer of fabric is sewn inside is called facing.
Fusing: The process with the help of which fusible interlining is attached with the garment parts is
called fusing.
Gathering: The process of sewing the fabric by shortening the length through small folds or wrinkles
is called gathering.
Grain: The lengthwise direction of fabric is called as grain.
Interlining: In certain part of garment a special layer of fabric is used between two layers of fabric
or shape retention as well as increasing the strength is called as interlining.
Lining: The fabric which covers the garments fabric from the inner side of the garment is called
lining.
Pleat: In certain garments, fabric is folded and sewn with another fabric to enhance beautification as
well as easing on free movement is called as pleat.
Ligne: It is a unit of measuring comparatively smaller width. The ligne is used for measuring the
width of button, ribbons.
Marker: The total patterns of a garment are drawn in a planned way mainly on paper and which is
used for cutting of fabric by spreading nit on the fabric layers, is called marker.

6. Moulding: The process of giving desired shape of a garment parts with the help of a die by applying
heat and pressure is called moulding.
Pressing: The process of making crease on the parts of fabrics by folding it is called pressing.
Pattern: The replica, shape or template of a part of a garment is called the pattern.
Seam: The line along which one piece or multiple pieces of fabrics are joined by sewing is called as
seam.
Stitch: Each of the unit of sewing made with sewing thread is called the stitch.
Trimmings: Without main fabric, all other parts which are used in a garments is called trimmings.
In
a garment, except the main fabric all other parts needed are termed as trimmings.
Ticket Number: The number which is used to show how much the sewing thread is thinner or thicker
is called ticket number.
24 July 2020 (4th
Class)
Sample:
A few item or goods taken from a large number of similar goods are called sample. Sample represents
the bulk apparel. When a few number of item or garments are taken from large number of apparel for
checking, those few items are called Sample. It could be one item, it could be two.
Different types of Samples:
There are so many types of Sample. From some of them is noted bellow:
1. Development Samples
2. Salesmen Sample or Promotional Samples
3. Fit Samples
4. Photo Samples
5. Counter or Reference Samples
6. Pre-production Samples
7. Production Samples
8. Shipping Sample
9. Size set Sample
I have learnt Some fabric used in apparel sector. There are mainly three types of fabric are used in
apparel sector.
Fabric Used In Apparel Sector:
Mainly three types of fabric are used in apparel sector, they are
1. Woven Fabric
2. Knitted Fabric
3. Non-Woven Fabric

7. Woven Fabric:
Most commonly used Woven fabric are bellow1. Plain Weave Fabric
2. Voile
3. Poplin
4. Chambray
5. Taffeta
6. Georgette
7. Chiffon etc.
Knitted Fabric:
1. 100% Cotton Single Jersy
2. Lycra Single Jersy
3. Single & Double Lacoste
4. Pique
5. Rib
6. Interlock etc
Non Woven Fabric:
1. Mesh Backing Fabric.
I have learnt Componenets of a basic Shirt & a basic Trouser. It is so important because In apparel
industry we must have knowledge about Shirt & Trouser and their Components. Components of a
basic Shirt & Trouser is bellow:
Major Components of A Basic Shirt:
1. Collar
2. Collar band/ stand
3. Upper yoke
4. Lower yoke
5. Left front part
6. Right front part
7. pocket
8. Sleeve
9. Cuff
10. Back part
11. Facing
12. Button Stand
Major Components of A Basic Trouser:
1. Waist Band
2. Belt Loop
3. Side Pocket
4. Fly Piece
5. Back Pocket
6. Front Part(Right & Left)
7. Back Part(Right & Left
7 August 2020 (5th
Class)
In this class, I have learnt about Pattern, Pattern making method.
Pattern:
Pattern is template of all components of garments which is made by drawing on hard paper following
each & individual component’s measurement.

8. Pattern Making Steps:
The pattern is made in two steps in garments industry
1. Block Pattern
2. Garments Pattern
Block Pattern:
Block Pattern or Basic Block is individual components of garments without any style , design &
allowances. It is produced acc. To exact dimension of standard body measurement.
Block Pattern is made in two ways
a. Flat Method
b. Modeling
Garments Pattern:
Garments pattern is made on the basis of block pattern or basic block. Allowances ie sewing, washing
trimmings; styles , designs like dart ,pleat , button hole shrinkage etc are considered . Individual block
pattern is laid /drawn on hard paper or board paper to copy the block pattern. In garments pattern
grain line isindicated by arrow mark. U or V notch/cut mark is marked on pattern for accurate cutting
& sewing. After drawing , pattern parts are separated from board paper by knife . Size and individual
part’s name are written on every part.
Pattern Making Tools:
To make pattern we use some tools that help us to make pattern properly. Those tools are bellow:
1. Pencil/Fine point sharp marker
2. Measuring Tape
3. Ruler
4. Curved Ruler
5. Scotch Tape
6. Scissor
7. Pin
8. Tracing wheel
9. Tracing Paper
10. Set Square
11. Tailor Chalk etc
Marker:
Marker is a piece of paper on which all size patterns of a garment are drawn so that the required
number of garments can be made using the minimum quantity of fabrics
Methods Of Marker Making:
There are two methods of marker making. They are
1. Manual Method
2. Computerized Marker Making
Manual Method:
In this process, marker can be made in two ways
1. By using full size pattern:
a. full size pattern pieces on marker paper or
b. directly on the top ply of the fabric in a spread
2. By using miniaturized pattern:
a. full size pattern pieces are reduced to 1/5 of its original size by using pantograph
b. made by plastic sheet or thick board paper
c. marker planning is done by using those miniaturized patterns

9. Computerized Marker Making:
a. very accurate and provides the greatest opportunity for pattern manipulation, marker efficiency
and shortest response time
b. Production patterns may be developed on the computer or digitized or scanned in to the computer
c. parameters for markers are entered in to the computer from cutting orders - style numbers,
size distribution and fabric width
d. Protective devices are built in to the programs to ensure the grain alignment and prevent
overlapping of pieces.
21 August 2020 (6th
Class)
Objects of Fabric Spreading:
To cut garments in bulk and saving in fabric.
To save cutting time by cutting many plies at a time.
To ensure every ply plain and flat.
To reduce manufacturing cost by cutting in proper way by ensuring pro per fabric spreading.
Correctly aligned as to length and width
At correct tension
Requirements of Spreading Process:
Alignment offabric piles.
Fabric must beflat.
Elimination offabric flaws.
Correct ply direction.
Correct ply tension.
Elimination ofstatic electricity.
Avoidance of fusion of plies during cutting.
Avoidance of distortion in spread
Matching checks or stripes .
Easy separate of the cut lay into bundles
Types of Fabric Lays:
Based onConstruction:
1.Straight Lay
2.Stepped Lay
Based on the Direction of Spreading:
1.All faceup/down
2.Face to face
3.Zig-Zag
Method of Fabric Spreading:
1. Manual Method
a. Byhand
b. b. Byhook
c. c.Spreadingtruck with the help of operator
2. Mechanical method
a. Semi automatic
b. Full automatic

10. ManualMethod:
By Hand: Fabric roll is spreaded on the table by two laborers according to the length & width of
marker. Sometimes it is done by entering a rod which is made by wood or metal in the center paper
table which is present in the center of the fabric roll.
By Hook: In this process the top of the table on which the fabric is spreaded is set at 10º angle
perpendicularly.The hook which placed on the upper face of the table is 15cm long and the hook is
joined with one end of selvedge of the fabric.
Spreading truck with the help of operator: There is a spreading truck on the one end of the
spreading table in which the fabric roll is placed.Then the truck is operated by hand from one end to
the other end of the table & with the same time the fabric is open out from the fabric roll and the
fabric is spreaded according to the length and width.
Mechanical method:
Semi automatic:
Semi automatic machine is working almost similar to Hand process with spreading track process
because this methodsworking technique and working prouder are same but this process are working
by electric motor.
Full automatic:
Full automatic fabric spreading machine is the improvement of semi-automatic spreading
machine.There are alot of advantages of this machine to make fabric lay. Because, this spreading
machine is operated by controlling with the help of micro processor androbot.
Splice:
During the fabric spreading process, if the fault detector machine gets any fault or damage on the
fabric then the fabric must be cut by width and start spreading from the edge of fabric already
spreadby overlapping.This kind of overlapping is called splice.
Common Fabric faults found in Fabric Spreading:
1. BadSelvedge
2. Burl Mark
3. Drawbacks
4. DroppedPick
5. EndOut
6. Knots
7. Mixed End(Yarn)
8. Mixed filling
9. Open reed
10. Slub
11. Smash
12. Stop mark
13. Thin place
14. Holes
Types of Fabric Package:
1. Open fabric roll,
2. Folded fabric roll,
3. Tubular knitted fabric roll,
4. Hanging fabric package,
5. Folded fabric cuttled.

11. 28 August 2020 (7th
Class)
Requirements of Fabric Cutting:
Precision of cut:
To ensure the cutting of fabric accurately according to the line drown of the marker plan.
Infused edge:
During fabric cutting, the friction between the fabric and blade; the blade produces temperature in the
temperature may be up to 3000c
Support of the lay:
Surface of the cutting table depends on methods of fabric cutting. The table surface should be capable
to support the lay as well as to ensure that all the plies are cut at a time during fabric cutting.
Types Of Cutting Method:
Fully Manual
Hand operated scissor
Manually Operated Power Knife
Straight knife
Band knife
Round knife
Die cutting
Notcher
Drill
Computerized Methods Of Fabric Cutting
Computer controlled knife cutting
Cutting by Laser beam
Cutting by Water jet
Cutting by Plasma torch
Hand Operated Scissor:
Features:
First & oldest method of fabric cutting
Used for cutting one or two plies of fabric
Available to cut the fabric from left to right or right to left
Can be cut by scissor
Needs more time & contain high cost
Used in tailoring & household purpose to cut fabric
Straight Knife:
Features:
Knife is driven by electricpower
Grinding wheel is present to sharp the knife duringcutting
Blade edge: straight edge, wave edge, saw edge, serratededge
Straight edge is mostly used
Blade stroke 2.5 to 4.5 cm
Can cut heavy fabric such as canvas &denim

12. Band Knife:
Features:
Band knife comprises a series of three or more pulleys, powered by electric motor
Cutting knife is endless in shape & flexible
Blade is usually narrower then on a straight knife
This method m/c is stationary but fabric is moveable
This is like saw mill cutter
Round Knife:
Features:
Element of round knife:
Base plate & Electric motor
Handle for the cutter to direct the blade
Rotating circular blade
Blade diameter varies from 6-20 cm
Blade is circular
Blade is driven by electric power
Circular knife is driven by 1000-3500 cm
Die Cutting:
Features:
Mainly two types of die cuttings are available namely: Presses & Clickers
Main parts of all die cutting m/c are Blade, Ram Head, Die,
Motor & Operating System of Ram
Die is made by metallic strip
Most useful to cut sharp & small parts
Working Principal:
Die is prepared with metal strip according to the shape of pattern
Die press generally has a cutting die just penetrates the cutting pad in order
that the fibers of the lowest ply are completely separated
For die cutting, the spreader spreads a lay to the required placement of dies
The spread is cut into sections to allow transport to the cutting pad
The gap between two dies 2-3 mm are placed when die is taken to cut
fabric lay
4 September 2020 (8th
Class)
DRILL CUTTING M/C:
Features:
Needed to mark on the end of components of dresses especially for pocket & dart setting
This m/c contains a motor, base plate, drill, & spirit level
For tightly woven fabric, making of hole by drill is permanent for long
In hypodermic drill some color is sprayed along with the hole so that it can easy to find the marked
place
COMPUTER CONTROLLED KNIFE CUTTING:
Features:
This method provide the most accurate possible cutting at high speed
Marker is not necessary to put over the fabric lays during cutting
Cutting knife is oval shaped & very hard. Sharpness is also high & blade is made of
stainless steel

13. Cutting knife itself moves according to the direction of computer
memory
This m/c is CAM system m/c & works through CAD system
Interlining:
Interlining is a very important in apparel manufacturing. Interlining is one kind of accessories that is
used between the two layers of fabric in a garment. To keep the different component or part of apparel
in a desired shape, a kind of fabric is used between the two ply of fabric by sewing or fusing is called
interlining. Generally, interlinings are soft, thick, and flexible. It is made cotton, nylon, polyester,
wool and viscose. Sometimes finishing is necessary to improve its properties i.e. shrink resist finish,
crease resist finish.
Functions Of interlining:
To support the garment.
To control the shape of the garment.
To control the area of the apparel.
To reinforce the components of the garment.
To make the apparel beautiful, strong and attractive.
To ensure the anticipated look, quality and effect of the fabric.
To improve garment performance.
Types of Interlining:
1. Non Fusible Interlining
2. Fusible Interlining
Non Fusible Interlining:
1. The interlining which is used between two layers of fabrics directly by sewing without heat
and pressure is called non-fuse interlining.
2. This type of interlining is also called sewn interlining or non- fusible interlining.
3. For the preparation of sewn interlining a piece of fabric is treated with starch and allowed to
dry and finally sewn with main fabric.
Fusible Interlining:
1. It is most used interlining. The interlining which is used between two layers of fabrics by
applying heat and pressure for a certain time is called Fusible Interlining.
2. Fusible interlining is used for all kinds of apparel.
3. Also it is used in “Ready to wear” and “Bespoke garment”. It is verypopular.
Requirement of Fusing:
Fusible interlining contains the below properties:
1.Here, the fusing is done by using perfect temperature so that there is no hampering of fabric color.
2.The maximum temperature of fusing should not be more than 175°
3.The minimum temperature of this interlining should not be less than 110°
4.The minimum temperature should be applied during fusing otherwise it will create problem in the
bonding between garments fabric and interlining during washing or end using of garments.
5.The bond of fusible interlining should not be opened or hampered due to washing or dry cleaning.
6.After completing this type of interlining it should contain the stiffness and drape properties of
garments.
7.The color of fusible interlining must be white or transparent, but it can be different in color
according to the fusing requirements.
8.This type of interlining should be done as that the color of garment cannot be changed due to the
color of interlining.

14. 9.The interlining should not be toxic to the human body during the end use of garments.
Polyethylene Coated Interlining:
Polyethylene is used asresin coating.
The effect of varying the density of the resin is to give a greater resistance to dry cleaning solvents
and a higher softening pointwith increasing density.
This type of interlining is used in collar, cuff of shirt.
The fabric attached with this type of interlining can be washed in water
Polyamide Coated Interlining:
Polyamide is used as resin coating.
Poly-amides widely used are very in dry cleanable garments.
High temperature fusing is done for the garments, which are washed with water at 60ºc.
Polypropylene Coated Interlining:
Polypropylene coated interlining. The resin is similar to the properties of polyethylene coated
interning
Comparatively high temperature fusing is done.
The fabric attached with this interlining can be washed with water
Conditions of Fusing:
Temperature: There is a limited range of temperatures that are effective for each type of resin. Too
high a temperature causes the resin to become too viscous, which could result in the resin being forced
through to the right side of the cloth.
Time: Time is the only time element of any value during the fusing process is when the top cloth and
fusible are under pressure in the heating zone of the machine.This time cycle for a particular fusible
is determined by :
1. Whether the fusible has a high –or low melt resin.
2. If a high or heavy substrate is being used.
3. The nature of the top cloth being used, thick or thin, dense or open
So that was my learning reflection from my class. No more today. Send love to your parents and
youngers. Ins Sha Allah next time I will share my another learning outcome.
Yours ever
Md Rakibul Hassan