2. INTRODUCTION
Definition: A shampoo is a preparation of a surfactant (i.e. surface active material )
in a suitable form – liquid , solid or powder –which when used under the specified
conditions will remove surface grease, dirt, and skin debris from the hair shaft and
scalp without adversely affecting the user.
The word shampoo in English is derived from Hindustani chāmpo.
Shampoos are typically composed of 10 to 30 ingredients.
Several types of ingredients are particularly important, including “Surfactants" that
aid in cleansing and lathering.
“Conditioners" and “Active ingredients" that affect the hair and scalp.
“Additives" that stabilize the product.
3. REQUIREMENTS OF A SHAMPOO
It should effectively and completely remove dust or soil, excessive sebum or other fatty
substances and loose corneal cells from the hair.
It should produce a good amount of foam to satisfy the psychological requirements of the
user.
It should be easily removed on rinsing with water.
It should leave the hair non‐dry, soft, lustrous with good manage ability and minimum fly
away.
It should impart a pleasant fragrance to the hair.
It should not cause any side‐effects/ irritation to skin or eye.
It should not make the hand rough and chapped.
4. IDEAL PROPERTIES
To make the hair smooth and shiny.
Produce good amount of Foam.
Should not cause irritation to scalp , skin and eye.
Should completely, effectively remove dirt.
Impart pleasant fragrance to hair.
5. CLASSIFICATION
I. Based on Appearance:
Powder Shampoos
Liquid Shampoos or Lotion
Gel Shampoos or Solid Cream
Cream Shampoos
Oil Shampoos
Miscellaneous-anti dandruff,
medicated shampoo
6. CLASSIFICATION
II. Based on Use or Function:
Conditioning Shampoos
Antidandruff
Therapeutic
Baby
Balancing
Clarifying
III. Based on Origin:
Herbal
Egg
7. ACTION
All Shampoos contain Surfactants . Surfactant molecule has two parts—
Hydrophilic head and Hydrophobic tail.
At high concentration they form Micelle. When Shampooing , Anionic
surfactants containing hydrophobic tail gets adsorbed to grease or dirt of hair.
Thus, these dirt are removed by further rinsing.
8. RAW MATERIALS
a)Water: This is the main ingredient in all shampoo recipes, comprising about 60-80% of
the solution, inexpensive , it aids in diluting the cleaning agents, thereby reducing
irritation, and makes the shampoo formula easier to spread on the hair and scalp.
b)Surfactants: Surfactants are compounds that lower the surface tension of a liquid, the
interfacial tension between two liquids. Surfactants may act as detergents, wetting agents,
emulsifiers, foaming agents, and dispersants.
c)Foam Boosters and Stabilizers: Used to increase Foam forming tendency. E.g.: Coco
Diethanolamide used as foam booster and viscosity builder.
9. RAW MATERIALS
d) Opacifiers : A chemical agent added to a material, such as rocket propellant, to
make it opaque(not transparent or not allowing light to pass through). E.g.:
Spermaceti.
e) Clarifying Agents: To make clear by removing impurities or solid matter, as by
heating gently or filtering. E.g.: Ethanol, propanol.
f) Anti-dandruff Agents: Removal of dandruff from scalp of hair. E.g.: Selenium,
Salicylic acid.
10. RAW MATERIALS
g) Conditioning Agents: To offset the effects of surfactants, most shampoo recipes
include conditioners to help smooth, soften and reduce brittleness. E.g.: Lanolin,
Glycerol, Propylene glycol.
h) Thickening Agents: or Viscosity Builders. What this basically means is – how to
make shampoo thick and creamy , include salts and gums. Gums improve viscosity
because of their gel-like properties. E.g.: Tragacanth gum, carboxy methyl cellulose.
11. RAW MATERIALS
i) Sequestering Agents: Used to prevent precipitation of insoluble calcium ,
magnesium salts in hard water. E.g.: EDTA
j) Perfumes: Shampoos include perfumes and pigments most are highly
concentrated and used sparingly. E.g. :fruit fragrance
k) Colours : Used to impart colour , different colours are used. E.g.: Strawberry.
12. RAW MATERIALS
L)Preservatives: Shampoo formula containing water has the potential to be
contaminated by pathogens. For this reason it is essential to include preservatives
among shampoo ingredients, to prevent the growth of molds. Preservatives
usually comprise only 0.1– 0.5% of the formulation.
14. QUALITY CONTROL TESTS
a) Foam Stability:
Cylinder shake method was used for determining foaming ability. 50ml of the 1%
shampoo solution was put into a 250ml graduated cylinder and cover the cylinder
with hand and shaken for 10 times. The total volumes of the foam contents after 1
minute shaking were recorded. The foam volume was calculated. Foam should retain
for at least 5mins.
15. QUALITY CONTROL TESTS
b) Dirt Dispersion:
Put two drops of shampoo in a large test tube, 10ml dirt water and one drop of
Indian Ink. Close the Test tube and shake for 5min. Estimate the amount of Ink in
the foam. The dirt should stay in water portion.
c) Wetting Action:
Canvas disk is used, is one inch in diameter is floated on the surface of a solution
and the time required for it to sink is measured accurately.
16. QUALITY CONTROL TESTS
d) Viscosity:
It is determined using Brookfield Viscometer. 100ml of shampoo is
taken in a beaker and spindle is dipped in it for about 5min and then
reading is taken.
17. QUALITY CONTROL TESTS
e) pH:
Mix 1gram of shampoo with 9ml of water and determine the pH using pH
meter at 27 degrees Celsius.
18. QUALITY CONTROL TESTS
f) Determination of Non-Volatile alcohol soluble matter:
It is determined by calculating the chloride content.
Take 10grams of sample in beaker, evaporate to dryness on steam bath, digest
with 50ml of 95% ethanol.
heat on steam bath for 2min.Filter the ethanolic solution through glass filtered
funnel which is fitted to Buchner’s flask to which suction pump is applied.
Wash the beakers 5times with 30%of hot ethanol and transfer to funnel.
Transfer entire filter in the Buchner’s flask to wide mouthed flat bottomed
flask.
19. QUALITY CONTROL TESTS
flask in oven at temperature of 100 degrees Celsius till constant mass is obtained.
Dissolve residue in 50ml water two drops of Methyl orange indicator, if solution
is yellow in colour then neutralize with dilute nitric acid to get pink colour.
Finally titrate with silver nitrate using Potassium chromate indicator. Carryout
BLANK also.
Chloride content in Shampoo(x)=V*0.584/100
%non volatile alcohol soluble matter=x/wt. of sample*100
20. QUALITY CONTROL TESTS
g) Determination of free Alkali:
Done by two methods.
I. Ethanol method:
Weigh 2 to 10grams of sample, digest with 200ml boiled ethanol on steam bath to mix
well and filter it. Wash the beaker several times with hot ethanol, heat filtrate for few
min two drops of phenolphthalein indicator and titrate with Sulphuric acid or
Hydrochloric acid.
21. QUALITY CONTROL TESTS
II. Barium chloride method:
10 grams of sample 100ml ethanol, Reflux for 15min. Shake frequently at 5 min
interval 5ml Barium chloride to remove any traces of carbonates. Stop Reflux and
allow to cool few drops of phenolphthalein indicator and titrate with Sulphuric
acid.
22. QUALITY CONTROL TESTS
h) Microbial Assay: Evaluation of preservative activity.
I. Preparation of Pre- inoculum:
Take a loopful culture of S. Aureus aseptically , transfer and sterilise. Cooled 100ml
Soya bean Casein digestive medium mix and Incubate at 37degress Celsius for
24hours.
II. Preparation of Pour plates:
Sterilised Soya bean Casein digest agar 100ml , cooled to 40 degree, mix with 5ml
of 24hours old pre- inoculated culture. Immediately pour in plates, allow to set .
23. QUALITY CONTROL TESTS
Making WELLS on agar plates:
Wells are dug on agar plates , take 100ml of sample.
Add to well aseptically ,incubate at 37degress for 24 to 48hours.
Observe Zone of Inhibition.
24. QUALITY CONTROL TESTS
i) Skin – irritation Test:
Draize test in Rabbits where a patch test technique is used on the intact skin of
Albino Rabbits.
A set of 6 Rabbits used for testing each material.
Shampoos should be tested only for a short duration that is not more than (NMT)
4hours as these products come in contact with skin only for a short duration.
These preparations are diluted between concentrations of 8 to 10%.
These patches are then removed and the skin sites are scored for the changes on the
surface of the skin like Edema , erythema formation . The products are then
classified as----mild irritant , moderate and severe.
25. QUALITY CONTROL TESTS
j) Skin Sensitization Test: Test on GUNIEA pig.
k) Eye-Irritancy Test: On the basis of ability to cause injury to Cornea, Iris,
Conjunctiva when the substances is applied to EYE.
The test is carried out on Adult Albino Rabbits.
Ocular reactions are read which unaided Eye.
Readings are made 24,48,72hours at 4 and 7 days after treatment (or)as long as injury
persists.
Any preparation is called an Eye Irritant which shows Corneal and Iris lesions which
persists even after 7days.
26. REFERENCES
1. Harry’s Cosmeticology, Volume 1 of 2, 8th edition, Published by chemical
publishing Co. Inc. New york.
2. Haward I. Maibach’s Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology, third
edition, Published by Informa Healthcare USA Inc. New york- 10017
3. www.google.com