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Paperhanging: Foundation & Plain Paper 
F1 KE 11 
Presentation prepared by John Conlin
Aims 
• By the end of this session you will be 
familiar with the skills involved in preparing 
surfaces for paperhanging and the 
techniques and tools required for pasting 
and applying basic wallpapers
Objectives 
• By the end of this session you will be 
know how to 
• Select, Use, Maintain and store, Materials 
and equipment 
• Prepare un-papered and previously 
papered wall surfaces for paperhanging 
• Prepare and hang foundation and plain 
papers
What is Foundation & Plain Papers 
Lining Paper 
Anaglypta 
woodchip
Tools and equipment 
Four Fold Rule Measuring Tape 
These should be used to measure Wall surface and Length 
Of Wallpaper to be used 
A Metal Metre Rule can also be used for this
Plastic bucket 
These can be used as paste buckets and for holding 
clean water to be used for rinsing a sponge
Paste Table 
Used to support coverings during preparation, 
cutting and pasting 
The Paste table should be kept clean during and after use
Scrapper 
For Use in removing wallpaper from surface 
To be decorated
Paste Brush 
Used to apply Glue size to prepared surfaces, Adhesive 
to wallpaper and water to wallpaper to be removed 
from surface 
Should be washed in soapy water and hung to dry
Plumb Bob 
A weight attached to string or twine used to produce 
A vertical line 
This ensures that wall paper is hung straight
Cutting Equipment 
Scissors Trimming Knife 
Scissors: are used for cutting or trimming wall coverings, Make 
Sure they are kept clean and dry to prevent rusting. They 
must be kept sharp or damage to wall coverings will occur. 
Trimming Knife: Can be used as an alternative to scissors 
but is most effective when used with a straight edge of 
some kind
Paper Hanging Brush 
Can also been known as a sweep and is used to remove all 
air bubbles between the wall covering and the surface to 
Which it is being applied 
After use the brush should be washed in soapy water and 
hung to dry
Spirit Level 
Can be used as a straight edge and can also be useful 
When marking Horizontal and vertical lines.
Seam Roller 
Used to roll down joints in wall coverings during hanging
Steam Stripper 
An efficient way of removing surface coverings from walls 
And ceilings, However care must be taken when using this 
Method. 
Over application of steam may damage the surface 
Burns and scalds to the person using the equipment
Orbital wallpaper scourers 
Pencil 
Sand paper
Good Practice in Preparing Surfaces 
• The following general good practice should be followed 
when preparing a surface for Wallpapers. 
• Ensure the surface is sound, clean, dry and free from 
grease. Wallpaper will not stick to grease and dirt. 
• Surfaces must be in good condition, flaking paint should 
be rubbed down with a medium sandpaper back to a firm 
surface, then sealed and filled. 
• Gloss or eggshell surfaces should be roughened with 
abrasive paper to provide a ‘KEY’ for the wallpaper.
• Bare Plaster Surfaces: Should be sized with a purpose 
made size or wallpaper adhesive, Sizing is essential as it 
evens out the ‘POROSITY’ of the bare plaster and 
lessens the possibility of ‘SNATCH’. 
• Plaster Board Surfaces: Over soaking either by hand or 
steam stripper can badly damage the paper surface of 
plasterboard to avoid this surfaces can be sized with an 
oil/ resin paint which will make the surface waterproof 
and less likely to damage 
• When removing wallpaper from surface all traces of old 
paste and small pieces of wallpaper should be removed 
by water and paste brush
• The Correct procedure for preparation of a plaster wall 
after stripping is Wash Down, Fill any holes or cracks 
and apply a coat of size.
Roll Calculation 
Use a roll of wall paper as a width guide to measure the number of full 
Lengths required. Mark where the joints will appear along the wall or 
Ceiling, then measure the length of the ceiling or the height of the wall 
to discover how many lengths can be cut from one roll. 
Then simply divide the amount of lengths required by the amount you 
can get from a roll. For example. You need 15 lengths and you can 
get 3 lengths from each roll. Divide 15 by 3 = 5 rolls
Adhesives 
• Starch Adhesive: Good adhesive properties, suitable for 
hanging heavy textured papers, contains fungicide so 
can be used with vinyl papers. 
However it’s difficult to mix, may stain wallpaper. It’s 
more expensive than Cellulose adhesive and will only 
last a day or so 
Cellulose Adhesive: Has the highest water content of Any paste a 
and comes in powder form which is mixed With water, used for 
Lightweight papers such as vinyl And lining paper 
Its inexpensive, little risk of staining paper, easy to 
apply. However can cause paper to over expand causing 
Wrinkling or mismatch
Other Adhesives & Glue size 
• Ready mixed 
• Border Adhesive 
• Overlap Adhesive 
• Glue Size: Is used to reduce the porosity 
of the surface and improve adhesion 
before paperhanging. It is soaked in cold 
water, add boiling water and stir until size 
powder is dissolved
Pasting and soaking 
• When pasting paper edges of the paper should be lifted to 
avoid paste contaminating both the paste table and the 
front of the wallpaper. 
Wallpaper should be allowed to soak after pasting to allow 
the paper to expand before hanging 
Failure to allow adequate soaking will cause the paper to 
blister 
It is important that you read the label attached to the paper 
for advice on soaking times and other relevant information
How to Identify Types of Wallpaper
Wastage 
• To ensure you get the right quantity of wall paper you 
need to allow for wastage. This is usually 15 to 20 
percent depending on the type of pattern, shape and 
height of the room. To be on the safe side a decorator 
should work on a 20% wastage. 
• When cutting lengths it is important to cut your paper 
slightly longer than the height/ length of the surface, to 
allow for trimming 
• For example: For a wall 2 metres high we should cut 
lengths of paper 2.050 metres
Folds
Where to start 
• Rule of thumb suggests that wallpaper should be hung away from 
the main source of light for the area to be decorated, i.e. a window. 
• To hang your first length you should set an appropriate plumb line 
on the wall and hang your paper to it, with all subsequent lengths 
hung with butt joints to hide edges. 
• The Wallpaper should be offered up to the plumb line with the 
longest fold opened and placed on the wall. You should be able to 
slide the paper accurately towards the plumb line. Smooth the paper 
down with the brush, working from the centre towards the edges, 
when all the air is smoothed out, fold down the bottom fold and 
apply it to the wall
Exceptions to the rule of thumb 
When papering a staircase always start with the longest 
drop (length) after applying this first length, work from 
either side of it
Chimney Breast 
The chimney breast is a focal point of a room and can be 
the place to start papering if the whole room is to be 
papered in the same patterned paper 
If your room does not have a chimney breast but there is 
still a feature wall, start hanging from the centre of the 
wall to ensure the pattern is centralised
Hanging paper around a window 
• Firstly, hang the paper on one side of the window (No1) 
making a cut that allows some of the paper to be folded 
around the reveal. Next, hang paper above and below 
the window ensuring that they are plumb (2&3). You can 
now patch the underside reveal in the corner(4). Allow 
approximately 10mm of paper to overlap ( see doted 
lines). Repeat on the other side
Hanging Paper around a window
How to Trim around a Light switch or socket 
• Papering around a socket 
or light switch can seem 
an awkward task, but it is 
actually fairly straight 
forward. 
Ensure the Power is isolated at the main fuse box 
When you hang the length where the socket is located 
poke the scissors through the paper roughly in the 
middle of the socket, then cut from the hole outwards 
to each corner
• Smooth the paper on to the wall and then mark the 
paper tightly into the corner where the switch and wall 
meet then trim the paper. 
• Alternatively trim the paper leaving it overlapping the 
socket by about 1cm, loosen the screws enough to push 
the paper behind the socket. 
• Finish the drop and then tighten the screws and you 
should be left with a perfect finish. 
• Clean any paste off the socket and allow the paper to dry 
before switching the power back on
Papering a Ceiling 
• Make a chalk line on the ceiling to work from, which should ensure 
that the first length is straight. 
• Always use a concertina fold, after soaking offer up the first 
length to the ceiling against the line that allows for 1 20 mm 
overlap at the wall edge. 
• The concertina folds should be around 350mm per fold. 
• Apply one fold to the ceiling whilst supporting the unopened folds 
• Smooth out the first fold then open one more fold and repeat. Do 
not try to apply more than one fold at a time 
• When free from air pockets and creases paper should be trimmed 
out to both walls
Papering a ceiling

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Foundation and plain paper power point

  • 1. Paperhanging: Foundation & Plain Paper F1 KE 11 Presentation prepared by John Conlin
  • 2. Aims • By the end of this session you will be familiar with the skills involved in preparing surfaces for paperhanging and the techniques and tools required for pasting and applying basic wallpapers
  • 3. Objectives • By the end of this session you will be know how to • Select, Use, Maintain and store, Materials and equipment • Prepare un-papered and previously papered wall surfaces for paperhanging • Prepare and hang foundation and plain papers
  • 4. What is Foundation & Plain Papers Lining Paper Anaglypta woodchip
  • 5. Tools and equipment Four Fold Rule Measuring Tape These should be used to measure Wall surface and Length Of Wallpaper to be used A Metal Metre Rule can also be used for this
  • 6. Plastic bucket These can be used as paste buckets and for holding clean water to be used for rinsing a sponge
  • 7. Paste Table Used to support coverings during preparation, cutting and pasting The Paste table should be kept clean during and after use
  • 8. Scrapper For Use in removing wallpaper from surface To be decorated
  • 9. Paste Brush Used to apply Glue size to prepared surfaces, Adhesive to wallpaper and water to wallpaper to be removed from surface Should be washed in soapy water and hung to dry
  • 10. Plumb Bob A weight attached to string or twine used to produce A vertical line This ensures that wall paper is hung straight
  • 11. Cutting Equipment Scissors Trimming Knife Scissors: are used for cutting or trimming wall coverings, Make Sure they are kept clean and dry to prevent rusting. They must be kept sharp or damage to wall coverings will occur. Trimming Knife: Can be used as an alternative to scissors but is most effective when used with a straight edge of some kind
  • 12. Paper Hanging Brush Can also been known as a sweep and is used to remove all air bubbles between the wall covering and the surface to Which it is being applied After use the brush should be washed in soapy water and hung to dry
  • 13. Spirit Level Can be used as a straight edge and can also be useful When marking Horizontal and vertical lines.
  • 14. Seam Roller Used to roll down joints in wall coverings during hanging
  • 15. Steam Stripper An efficient way of removing surface coverings from walls And ceilings, However care must be taken when using this Method. Over application of steam may damage the surface Burns and scalds to the person using the equipment
  • 16. Orbital wallpaper scourers Pencil Sand paper
  • 17. Good Practice in Preparing Surfaces • The following general good practice should be followed when preparing a surface for Wallpapers. • Ensure the surface is sound, clean, dry and free from grease. Wallpaper will not stick to grease and dirt. • Surfaces must be in good condition, flaking paint should be rubbed down with a medium sandpaper back to a firm surface, then sealed and filled. • Gloss or eggshell surfaces should be roughened with abrasive paper to provide a ‘KEY’ for the wallpaper.
  • 18. • Bare Plaster Surfaces: Should be sized with a purpose made size or wallpaper adhesive, Sizing is essential as it evens out the ‘POROSITY’ of the bare plaster and lessens the possibility of ‘SNATCH’. • Plaster Board Surfaces: Over soaking either by hand or steam stripper can badly damage the paper surface of plasterboard to avoid this surfaces can be sized with an oil/ resin paint which will make the surface waterproof and less likely to damage • When removing wallpaper from surface all traces of old paste and small pieces of wallpaper should be removed by water and paste brush
  • 19. • The Correct procedure for preparation of a plaster wall after stripping is Wash Down, Fill any holes or cracks and apply a coat of size.
  • 20. Roll Calculation Use a roll of wall paper as a width guide to measure the number of full Lengths required. Mark where the joints will appear along the wall or Ceiling, then measure the length of the ceiling or the height of the wall to discover how many lengths can be cut from one roll. Then simply divide the amount of lengths required by the amount you can get from a roll. For example. You need 15 lengths and you can get 3 lengths from each roll. Divide 15 by 3 = 5 rolls
  • 21. Adhesives • Starch Adhesive: Good adhesive properties, suitable for hanging heavy textured papers, contains fungicide so can be used with vinyl papers. However it’s difficult to mix, may stain wallpaper. It’s more expensive than Cellulose adhesive and will only last a day or so Cellulose Adhesive: Has the highest water content of Any paste a and comes in powder form which is mixed With water, used for Lightweight papers such as vinyl And lining paper Its inexpensive, little risk of staining paper, easy to apply. However can cause paper to over expand causing Wrinkling or mismatch
  • 22. Other Adhesives & Glue size • Ready mixed • Border Adhesive • Overlap Adhesive • Glue Size: Is used to reduce the porosity of the surface and improve adhesion before paperhanging. It is soaked in cold water, add boiling water and stir until size powder is dissolved
  • 23. Pasting and soaking • When pasting paper edges of the paper should be lifted to avoid paste contaminating both the paste table and the front of the wallpaper. Wallpaper should be allowed to soak after pasting to allow the paper to expand before hanging Failure to allow adequate soaking will cause the paper to blister It is important that you read the label attached to the paper for advice on soaking times and other relevant information
  • 24. How to Identify Types of Wallpaper
  • 25. Wastage • To ensure you get the right quantity of wall paper you need to allow for wastage. This is usually 15 to 20 percent depending on the type of pattern, shape and height of the room. To be on the safe side a decorator should work on a 20% wastage. • When cutting lengths it is important to cut your paper slightly longer than the height/ length of the surface, to allow for trimming • For example: For a wall 2 metres high we should cut lengths of paper 2.050 metres
  • 26. Folds
  • 27. Where to start • Rule of thumb suggests that wallpaper should be hung away from the main source of light for the area to be decorated, i.e. a window. • To hang your first length you should set an appropriate plumb line on the wall and hang your paper to it, with all subsequent lengths hung with butt joints to hide edges. • The Wallpaper should be offered up to the plumb line with the longest fold opened and placed on the wall. You should be able to slide the paper accurately towards the plumb line. Smooth the paper down with the brush, working from the centre towards the edges, when all the air is smoothed out, fold down the bottom fold and apply it to the wall
  • 28. Exceptions to the rule of thumb When papering a staircase always start with the longest drop (length) after applying this first length, work from either side of it
  • 29. Chimney Breast The chimney breast is a focal point of a room and can be the place to start papering if the whole room is to be papered in the same patterned paper If your room does not have a chimney breast but there is still a feature wall, start hanging from the centre of the wall to ensure the pattern is centralised
  • 30. Hanging paper around a window • Firstly, hang the paper on one side of the window (No1) making a cut that allows some of the paper to be folded around the reveal. Next, hang paper above and below the window ensuring that they are plumb (2&3). You can now patch the underside reveal in the corner(4). Allow approximately 10mm of paper to overlap ( see doted lines). Repeat on the other side
  • 32. How to Trim around a Light switch or socket • Papering around a socket or light switch can seem an awkward task, but it is actually fairly straight forward. Ensure the Power is isolated at the main fuse box When you hang the length where the socket is located poke the scissors through the paper roughly in the middle of the socket, then cut from the hole outwards to each corner
  • 33. • Smooth the paper on to the wall and then mark the paper tightly into the corner where the switch and wall meet then trim the paper. • Alternatively trim the paper leaving it overlapping the socket by about 1cm, loosen the screws enough to push the paper behind the socket. • Finish the drop and then tighten the screws and you should be left with a perfect finish. • Clean any paste off the socket and allow the paper to dry before switching the power back on
  • 34. Papering a Ceiling • Make a chalk line on the ceiling to work from, which should ensure that the first length is straight. • Always use a concertina fold, after soaking offer up the first length to the ceiling against the line that allows for 1 20 mm overlap at the wall edge. • The concertina folds should be around 350mm per fold. • Apply one fold to the ceiling whilst supporting the unopened folds • Smooth out the first fold then open one more fold and repeat. Do not try to apply more than one fold at a time • When free from air pockets and creases paper should be trimmed out to both walls