Very basic cross lining powerpoint

1. Cross lining

2. Why cross line? There are lots of reasons…
• It provides even opacity – in other words keeps the surface the same
colour so that faults in the wall don’t show through.
• It provides even porosity – it evens out the suction of the wall, in
cases of bare plaster, painted plaster and other surface problems
• It gives a good surface and gives more ‘body’ to the finish paper
• It helps to prevent the finish paper from shrinking slightly and causing
hairline gaps between lengths.

3. • Lining paper like nearly all
papers expands when it gets
wet and this is why it needs to
soak.
• It expands width ways by upto
10 mm.
• So hanging it horizontally
cancels out any expansion and
contraction of paper hung
vertically on it.

4. Before hanging the paper….
• Make sure the surface is
prepared correctly.
• Little ‘islands’ of old paper or
paste should be removed
• Holes and cracks should be
repaired with a powder filler
• It should dust free, smooth and
sized.

5. • Gaps which get movement such
as doorframes and along skirting
boards should be filled with a
flexible filler such as decorators
caulk.
• Smooth it off with a damp
sponge to prevent the ‘tram
lines’ that you get using your
finger

6. • When everything is clean and
dry, the walls must be ‘sized’.
• Size is a water based sealer,
made traditionally from boiled
fish bones however nowadays
thin paste is acceptable.
• It is used to prevent water being
absorbed by the plaster too
quickly and ‘snatching’ the
paper preventing it from slipping

7. Decorators tools
• Tools that should be used are, a
plastic spatula,
• or a paper hangers sweep
(brush)
• a decent pair of decorators
shears

8. • A flat wall or pasting brush
• A spirit level
• A self-chalking snapline

9. • A paste table
• A tape measure
• A decorators sponge
• Not forgetting a pencil and a
binbag for waste

10. Work out the starting point
• Measure down from the ceiling
slightly less than the width of
the lining paper, upto 20 mm.
this will help with any deviations
or faults with the ceiling.
• Snap a horizontal line with a
chalk line or by using a spirit
level.

12. • Measure the length of the wall
and add 5cm extra at each end
so the paper can be trimmed.
• You can measure the wall but if
you are on your own you can
measure the floor and add a bit
for the skirting boards.

13. • Fold the paper on itself to get a
90 degree line to cut down
• Cut the paper to length,
measure twice - cut once!

14. • Paste the lining paper carefully
not to get paste on the table.
• Push the paper so that it
overhangs the far edge of the
table by no more than 1 cm and
paste that edge.
• Then paste the middle.
• Then move the paper so it
overhangs the near edge by upto
1 cm and paste that edge

15. • As previously stated when paper
gets wet it expands.
• If the paper is applied straight to
the wall without allowing it to
soak, the paper will carry on
trying to expand whilst on the
wall.
• This can result in ‘tension
blisters’ which are long finger-
like blisters which are orientated
along the length of the paper

16. • Fold the paper with a concertina
fold and allow to soak for up to 8
minutes, though you should
always check the hanging
instructions for the optimum
soaking time.
• Folds should be between 30-
40cm depending on the paper.

17. Application of the paper
• Pick up the paper in the left
hand (if right handed) with your
fingers between the folds
• If you hold the paper at the front
the center of gravity makes it tip
back twisting the paper up.
• If you hold it at the back it will
tip forwards

18. • Pick up the paper with fingers
between folds, in the middle to
ensure that the paper is straight
as you release it.
• to release it you simply let go
with each finger in turn

19. • If you are right handed start on the
right hand side, if you are left
handed, then on the left.
• Apply paper to wall, machine edge
to the snap line.
• Take your time and make sure that
the first 50cm-100cm is as accurate
to the line as it can be. Once that is
correct stop worrying about the
snap line and just release the paper
slowly as you sweep the air
bubbles out.

20. • The paper should be smoothed out
from the middle to prevent one
side or the other being overworked
and stretching, as this would make
one side slightly longer than the
other and cause it to curve slightly
• Release the folds one at a time by
moving a finger.
• Carefully smooth out the wallpaper
from the middle to the edge to
remove any air pockets.

21. • Remember that it is just wet
paper and over working the
paper will cause it to stretch or
tear.
• Trim the paper at both ends so
that 5mm goes around internal
corners
• Wipe paste off any adjacent
surfaces using a sponge and
water

22. Papering around a switch
• Papering around light switches
and plug sockets can be
dangerous and it is
recommended that the power is
isolated before you touch them.
• Make sure that this is ok with
the customer first.
• A bit of masking tape over the
holes can prevent paste entering
them.

23. • Cut a cross in the paper over the
socket so that it can be peeled
back into triangles which can be
trimmed back.
• Trim back to the edge of the
socket.
• Pushing cut wet paper behind
the socket is not recommended.

24. • Apply further lengths of paper
until the job is complete.
• Ensure that you clean up all
paste from adjacent surface with
a sponge and clean water at the
end of the job as any paste left
on paint work will contract as it
dries and may pull off paint on
doorframes or radiators.

25. • To make applying the top length
a bit easier it may be possible to
use a couple of hop-ups and a
plank, however this does mean a
slight risk of falling, so extra care
must be taken.
• Do not use this method if you
are unsure, pregnant, heart
conditions etc.

26. • Leave a HAIRLINE gap between
the lengths of paper, no more
than a pencil line thickness.
• The finish paper will go over the
gap and pull tight when dries
• However any overlaps will cause
a line which will be visible
through the surface paper

27. Faults.
• Jagged cutting caused by not
using scissors correctly

28. • Poor joints by not matching
machine edge to machine edge

29. • Tears and creases caused by
careless application.