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Advanced Apparel Manufacturing AZMIR LATIF, MSc.Engr (Textile)
Question: What are the differences between Trims and Accessories? Give me example of 5
trims and 5 accessories.
Trims and Accessories
Trims and accessories are those materials that are used in a garment other than main fabric
(shell fabric). Even lining materials (fabrics) fall under trims and accessories.
At first, when we read or heard these two terms, it seems that trims and accessories may refer
to two different types/ kinds/ categories of materials. One term may be used as functional
components and others term is used for non-functional and decorative purpose. But this is an
assumption.
I referred a book (Apparel Manufacturing by Glock and Kunz) and found following
definitions
Accessories: Item that enhances the aesthetic appeal or function of a garment including belt,
scarves or other objects. In generally these components are sewing less. Type of Accessories
 Accessories that are carried (Small pets, toy dog, cats, birds, snakes, taking parrots)
 Accessories that are worn,(Necklace, Umbrella, Bag, Parts etc.)
Trims: Materials used to ornament or enhance garments. These components are attach in the
garment by sewing. (Button, Zipper, Sewing thread, Lace, tape etc.)
Above definitions are fine when those are used as individual form. What happened when
these terms used as “trims and accessories” in garment manufacturing industry?
Advanced Apparel Manufacturing AZMIR LATIF, MSc.Engr (Textile)
To know actual meaning and difference between these two terms I picked few production
files from a factory. I have gone through documents such as,
 Garment techpack/ specification sheet that was made by merchants and designers from
buyer end,
 Bill of materials made by factory merchants using well known ERP system
 Accessory approval sheets and Trim cards made by factory merchants,
 Accessory received notes made by stores
I found both terms in those documents. Where one document used the term “trims” the other
one used “accessories” and both mean the same list of materials. Some document use these
terms as "Trims/ Accessories". Based on this study, I would say there is no difference
between trims and accessories, when these terms are used in garment manufacturing.
Still if you know something different and want to share your thought or different views with
us please drop your comments. Use following comment box post your feedback.
Example of Trims and Accessories
As we have come to know that there is no such difference between trims and accessories, I
am listing 10 trims/accessories for example.
1. Sewing thread
2. Buttons
3. Zippers
4. Lace/tape
5. Labels
6. Rivets
7. Lining fabrics
8. fusing material
9. Elastic
10.Crochet
Trimmings
Trimmings :The material component except main fabric which are used in the garments are
called trimming or accessories .Besides fabric various additional things are use for making
garments .Fore the example sewing thread ,button, etc.
Advanced Apparel Manufacturing AZMIR LATIF, MSc.Engr (Textile)
There are two types of trimming .They are
(a)visible trimming&
(b) invisible trimming
Visible trimming can be seen from outside of the garments .For example: interlining.
Some trimming used for functional purpose which is used for decorative purpose.
List of trimming used in shirt, jackets and trousers:
1. Label 2.Motif 3.Button 4.Swing thread 5.Interling 5.Zipper7.Hook &loop fastening
9.lignin 10.Sholder pad 11.Rivte 12.Lace,braid,&elastic 13.Collar insert, butter fly, plastic
clip ,buckle , pin, poly bag. Bar code.
Button:
Buttons are hardware items used in junetion with buttonholes for the fastening of garments.
Purpose:
The purposes of using buttons are
A) Functional purpose:
This referee to buttons which are used to open and close garments with security.
B) Decorative purpose:
These are buttons which are used purely for decorative purpose .for example, Sleeve vents.
Types of buttons:
Buttons can be classified in various types, some are mentioned below.
1 According to line no .There are various types of buttons. Ligne is the measuring unit of
button diameter .To maser the outer diameter of button we use ligne no
1 ligne = 0.025‟‟ or 0.0635 mm
The button sizes are
a16 L b.18L c.24L
d.12L e.28L f .32L g.36L
In shirts mostly we use 16L button is also used .In button (B.D) shirts 12L button are use d.
Advanced Apparel Manufacturing AZMIR LATIF, MSc.Engr (Textile)
In most common parts 24L button is used .Sometime times 26L snap button are also used.
To purchase button the GG is very important. 1 (Grand Gross) GG=12*12*12=1728 pieces.
1 Gross= (dozon*12)
2. According to the no of holes:
There are three types of button.
A) 2-hole button
B) 4-hole button
C) Special button (a) shank button (b) snap button (c) decorative button used in sleeve.
3According to material:
According to the manufacturing material there are the following types of button –
Plastic button:
This button are made of polyamide, polyester,polyacrylonitriteetc.they are cheap, not glossy
and widely used in shirt.
Metal button:
They are used in denim pants, trousers etc.
Wooden button:
They are used in decorative and functional purpose
Horn button:
They are made up of horns of animals used in shirt, pants. Artificial horns are also used
which are made up of nylon ,plastic and additives.
Chalk button:
It is used to make plastic glossy, used in shirt.
Printed button:
They are used only in decorative purpose.
Rivet:
Rivet is not used to open or close the opening the garments .They are used for the following
purpose.
a) Widely used for decorative and reinforcement purpose of denim or jeans garments.
b) It has two parts and requires an appropriate device to attach on garments.
Velcro:
This item consists of two woven polyamide tapes one covered with very fine hooks and the
other very fine loops .When pressed together they adhere securely to each other. This fastener
Advanced Apparel Manufacturing AZMIR LATIF, MSc.Engr (Textile)
is used instead of zipper and button.
A Swiss inventor made this product and he offered the trade name „VELCRO‟ for it
„VELCRO‟ come,s form two France words „velour‟ and „crochet‟.
It is used in only a limited number of garments like shoes, belts ,sports were children
wear,madecal textile etc.
Zipper:
Zipper Construction:
A zipper consists of five Main Parts:
1. Chains
2. Slider
3. Tapes
4. Stops and
5. Pull.
This is one kind of trimming which is use open and close of special parts of garments.
Purpose:
Functional:
Functional purpose of zipper is as a part of a garment here zipper is used to open and close
the openings.
Decorative purpose:
Where zipper is used as a decorative purpose, it inches the beauty of germens.
Uses:
In making trousers and jackets , chain or zipper is in essential component which is used to
open or close of special parts of garment.
Advanced Apparel Manufacturing AZMIR LATIF, MSc.Engr (Textile)
Types of zipper:
According to manufacturing material there are 3 types of zipper.
1. Metal zipper:
Metal zipper is used in trousers and shorts.
2. Polyester zipper:
Polyester or nylon zipper are used in jackets .It is made from a continuous filament paced
onto narrow fabric tape.
3. Plastic - molded zipper:
This types of zipper is used in pants.
Slider:
It is move up and down. Function of slider is to engage or disengage the teeth of opposite
sides of chain.
Slider mainly three types they are:-
1. Non –locking.
2. Semi-looking.
3. Full or auto locking.
Label:
Label is an attached component of garment on which important information regarding the
garment are written or printed. No garment can be sold without some kind of label attached
to it .Specially in case of exporting label on a garnets is must .For example the size of
garment trade mark country of origin type of fiber etc, are written on label There are mainly
3 types of label .
1. Main label:
Main label contains brand name or trade name of buyer which is registered by the buyer .For
example Levis .Polo, lee etc.
2. Size label:
Indicate the size of garment I e L, M, XL, XXL or collar length of shirt 15,16,17,18 etc.
3. Care label:
It indicates the care instruction of the garment by some internationally recognized signs. It
shows the washing, drying, dry-cleaning, and ironing conditions of garments. The all other
labels are called sub –labels.
Motif:
The special component which is attached outside of the garement for decorative purpose is
called motife.Company name ,trade mark or other symbols can be written on the motif.
Hangtags:
Advanced Apparel Manufacturing AZMIR LATIF, MSc.Engr (Textile)
Hangtags are designed to draw attention to the garments and are hung on the side of the
garments and sometimes in front of button line so that the customers can see them easily
.Hangtags are printed paper tags hung from the garments by plastic staple or string. They
usually show the brand name, style no, etc. It is regarded as finishing accessories, not sewing
accessories.
Lining:
Lining are generally a functional part of garment .They are used to maintain the shape of a
garment to the hang and comfort by allowing it to slide over other garment .Lining are are
available as knitted and woven fabric made from polyester .polyamide .acetate, viscose for
use where slippery material is required and from cotton, polyester cotton wool where
decoration and worm handle is required. Linings are joined to main garment by sewing and
for this purpose normal plain swing machines are used. Lining are widely used in jackets
coats overcoats pockets flaps children wear etc .Genaraleycheap fabrics are used as lining
material.
Interlining:
Interlining are used to support reinforce and control the shape of some areas of garments such
as collar, cuffs, waist bands ,facings and in front of corts .They may be sewn into the
garments or they may be attached by the fusing .Nowadays sewn interlining are hardly used
and usable interlinings are widely used.
Interlining is available in a wide variety of weights and constructions to mach the fabric of
garment. They can be woven non –woven product .Woven interlining are most commonly of
plain weave construction, whereas non-woven interlining are made directly from textile
fibers and are held together by mechanical ,chemical ,thermal or solvent means or
combination of these.
Swing interlining is made by swing .Some plies of fabrics together by swing densely then it
is joined with main garments by swing. Where fusible interlines have coating
of thermoplastic material on them and are joined to the garment by adhering them with the
help of pressure and heat. Fusible interlining give better result then that of sewn ones.
Shoulder pad:
Shoulder pad is a standard item in tailored garments both for women and for men. Linings
are used on the top and bottom of shoulder pad.As a result the appearance become beautiful
,comfortable and lasts for long time.
Shoulder pads are for functional purpose and some times for decorative purpose.
Quality of trimmings:
Trimmings may be of textile materials or non-textile materials. They should be selected
carefully to get desired performance. The quality of trimmings are described below-
1. Lifetime:
The life time of garments and that of the trimming should be equal .Otherwise the trimming
Advanced Apparel Manufacturing AZMIR LATIF, MSc.Engr (Textile)
will be faded or spoiled by washing, pressing, ironing, rubbing.
2. Shrinkage:
The appearance of the garment may be hampered if the accessories shrink due to ironing,
washing or pressing. Fore example seam pueker will be result in if the sewing thread shrinks.
So the shrink ability of the dress material and the trimming should be checked earlier.
3. Color fastness:
The fastness properties of accessories should be good. The color of trimming should not be
faded due to washing or exposure to sunlight. The appearance of garment will be hampered if
the trimming materials are faded.
4. Rust:
Where items are made from metal, the main construction is the problem of rusting. The
button, clamp, rivets etc may be made up the metals like iron, brass, steel etc .If rusting
occurs they will create spot on garment. So to avoid this problem the metal trimmings should
be electroplated or they should be made up of non-rusting materials.
5. Comfortability:
Trimming should not create any uncomfortable felling to the wearer .They should be
hygienic also as to cause no skin disease.
KNOW WHY USE ACCESSORIES & TRIMS IN THE GARMENTS
A supplementary part , object or the like, used mainly for functional convenience,
attractiveness ,safety etc.
Accessories /Trims types & using purpose:
1.Zip Fasteners: Functional accessories where long area need to cover
2.Metal Fasteners: Functional accessories where weight/fabric thickness high
3.Sewing thread: Functional accessories where stitching required
4.Reflective tape: Functional accessories when need to attract on darkness or low light
5. Cord and Pipings: Functional or sometimes decorative
6. Seam seal Tape: Special purpose work wear, safety wear etc.
7.Elastics: Functional accessories where flexible diameter is required.
8.Labels& Tags: Special purpose where need to mention some special instruction or Specific
logo on product
Advanced Apparel Manufacturing AZMIR LATIF, MSc.Engr (Textile)
9.Interlinling: Special accessories where special shape is required to maintained
10.Bias Bindings: Special purpose is to make the clothing design & placed at the edge-
seamstresses and Tailors. It also used to bind and enclosed straight or curved area.
12.Hook& Loop: Functional accessories consists of two component Hook & Loop to make a
bonding closure
13.Buttons: Functional accessories. A disk like piece of solid material having holes or Shank
through which it is sewed to one side of an article of clothing and used to fasten.
DIFFERENT TYPE OF GARMENT STITCHES
Different type of Garment Stitches Are:
a) Lock stitch
b) Chain Stitch
c) 3 Thread Over lock
d) 4 Thread Over lock
e) 5 Thread overlock
f) Baby Lock
g) Foot stitch
h) Flat Lock
i) Box stitch
j) Stab Stitch
k) Bar Tack
l) Zig-Zag
Advanced Apparel Manufacturing AZMIR LATIF, MSc.Engr (Textile)
GARMENT ACCESSORIES/TRIMS NAME, USE & APPEARANCE IMAGE (PART 5)
A) Strap Fastener
B) Bias Bindings
C) Label(Printed & Woven) &Tag (Cardboard)
D) 2 hole Plastic button
E) 4 hole Plastic button
F) Interlining
G) Twill Tape
H) Heat Seal Tape(Use Work wear, Safety wear, police uniform)
Advanced Apparel Manufacturing AZMIR LATIF, MSc.Engr (Textile)
GARMENT ACCESSORIES/TRIMS NAME & APPEARANCE IMAGE(PART 2)
A) Military Buckle
B) Plastic Buckles
C) Fame Buckle(Frame & Pin)
D) Brace Clip/Dungaree Clip
E) Claw
F) Popper Press Fastener
G) Metal Eyelet
Advanced Apparel Manufacturing AZMIR LATIF, MSc.Engr (Textile)
USE OF GARMENT EMBELLISHMENT & APPEARANCE IMAGE (Decorative
Item)
1) Crochet Flower
2) Crochet Flower
3) Crochet Fruit
4) Satin ribbon bow
5) Satin Ribbon
6) Embroidery ribbon
7) String
8) Variety of Badge
Advanced Apparel Manufacturing AZMIR LATIF, MSc.Engr (Textile)
Functional and Non-Functional (Mock) garment accessories, Drawstrings, Cords/Ties
(Children)
Below are applies to Children‟s clothing only.
Functional drawstring
Cord, chain, ribbon, string or tape of any textile or non-textile material
which passes through a channel, loop(s) or eyelet(s) or similar, has 2
loose hanging ends and is used to adjust the size of the opening, or part
of the garment or to fasten the garment itself.
Advanced Apparel Manufacturing AZMIR LATIF, MSc.Engr (Textile)
Continuous drawstring
Cord, chain, ribbon, string or tape of any textile or non-textile material
which passes through a channel around the total circumference of a
garment, has no loose hanging ends and is used to adjust the size of the
opening. Two loose hanging ends cannot be knotted together to form a
continuous drawstring.
Non-functional (decorative) drawstring
Non-functional cord, chain, ribbon, string or tape of any textile or nontextile
material, of fixed length which has two loose hanging ends and is
used to simulate the use of a functional drawstring, but is not in fact a
drawstring and has no drawstring functionality and is not intended to be
used to adjust the size of the garment opening or fasten the garment
itself.
Functional Cord/Tie
Cord, chain, ribbon, string or tape of any textile or non-textile material,
which is attached to the outside of the garment and is used to adjust the
size of the opening, or part of the garment or to fasten the garment itself.
Advanced Apparel Manufacturing AZMIR LATIF, MSc.Engr (Textile)
Non-functional (decorative) cord/tie
Non-functional cord, chain, ribbon, string or tape of any textile or nontextile
material, of fixed length and not intended to be used to adjust the size of the garment opening
or fasten the garment itself.
Elastic Cord/Tie
Cords containing yarns of rubber or elastodiene or elastic polymer or similar, having high
extensibility & complete or near complete recovery.
Halter Neck Cord/Tie
Functional cord worn round the back of the neck holding the garment (for example dress,
blouse or bikini) together leaving the shoulder and back bare.
Loop
Cord or narrow strip of fabric curved in shape, which maybe fixed or adjustable in length,
where both ends are attached to the garment.
Sash
Drawstring, decorative or functional cord of textile material of not less than 3cm/1 ¼” in
width worn round the waist area of a garment and tied in a bow.
Functional and decorative loops
Fixed loops that protrude from the garment also have length restrictions and safety must
be considered when designing garments with either functional or decorative loops. The
loop length must be measured end to end, the end being the point at which the loop is
attached to the garment. The extension must be measured from the fabric surface to the centre
of the loop when it is extended to its maximum without distorting the fabric surface.
Advanced Apparel Manufacturing AZMIR LATIF, MSc.Engr (Textile)
Any loops must not be more than 7.5cm (3”) in total loop length.
Belt loops
Belt loops can be used on garments designed for children 3 years and under. However, they
must be a maximum of 4cm (1½”) in length between bar tacks. Belt loops must be attached
so that they lie flat against the garment. This is to reduce the risk of entrapment.
Belt loops must be securely attached and reinforced with a bartack.
Back neck (locker) loops
Back neck (locker) loops should be located in the centre back neck and positioned at the
inside of a garment only.
Hanger loops
the use of hanger loops longer than 7.5cm (3”) in total circumference is not permitted for
children‟s clothing.
Advanced Apparel Manufacturing AZMIR LATIF, MSc.Engr (Textile)
Button loops
Using of button loops – maximum circumference 7.5cm (3”) – is permitted for childrens
clothing. The length, however, should be restricted to the minimum required for fastening.
Brass Pin (Accessories)
Stopper Tag Pin (Accessories)
Strings Collar stay
Swivel hook
Recco Shoulder tape Eyelet

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Trims and Accessories

  • 1. Advanced Apparel Manufacturing AZMIR LATIF, MSc.Engr (Textile) Question: What are the differences between Trims and Accessories? Give me example of 5 trims and 5 accessories. Trims and Accessories Trims and accessories are those materials that are used in a garment other than main fabric (shell fabric). Even lining materials (fabrics) fall under trims and accessories. At first, when we read or heard these two terms, it seems that trims and accessories may refer to two different types/ kinds/ categories of materials. One term may be used as functional components and others term is used for non-functional and decorative purpose. But this is an assumption. I referred a book (Apparel Manufacturing by Glock and Kunz) and found following definitions Accessories: Item that enhances the aesthetic appeal or function of a garment including belt, scarves or other objects. In generally these components are sewing less. Type of Accessories  Accessories that are carried (Small pets, toy dog, cats, birds, snakes, taking parrots)  Accessories that are worn,(Necklace, Umbrella, Bag, Parts etc.) Trims: Materials used to ornament or enhance garments. These components are attach in the garment by sewing. (Button, Zipper, Sewing thread, Lace, tape etc.) Above definitions are fine when those are used as individual form. What happened when these terms used as “trims and accessories” in garment manufacturing industry?
  • 2. Advanced Apparel Manufacturing AZMIR LATIF, MSc.Engr (Textile) To know actual meaning and difference between these two terms I picked few production files from a factory. I have gone through documents such as,  Garment techpack/ specification sheet that was made by merchants and designers from buyer end,  Bill of materials made by factory merchants using well known ERP system  Accessory approval sheets and Trim cards made by factory merchants,  Accessory received notes made by stores I found both terms in those documents. Where one document used the term “trims” the other one used “accessories” and both mean the same list of materials. Some document use these terms as "Trims/ Accessories". Based on this study, I would say there is no difference between trims and accessories, when these terms are used in garment manufacturing. Still if you know something different and want to share your thought or different views with us please drop your comments. Use following comment box post your feedback. Example of Trims and Accessories As we have come to know that there is no such difference between trims and accessories, I am listing 10 trims/accessories for example. 1. Sewing thread 2. Buttons 3. Zippers 4. Lace/tape 5. Labels 6. Rivets 7. Lining fabrics 8. fusing material 9. Elastic 10.Crochet Trimmings Trimmings :The material component except main fabric which are used in the garments are called trimming or accessories .Besides fabric various additional things are use for making garments .Fore the example sewing thread ,button, etc.
  • 3. Advanced Apparel Manufacturing AZMIR LATIF, MSc.Engr (Textile) There are two types of trimming .They are (a)visible trimming& (b) invisible trimming Visible trimming can be seen from outside of the garments .For example: interlining. Some trimming used for functional purpose which is used for decorative purpose. List of trimming used in shirt, jackets and trousers: 1. Label 2.Motif 3.Button 4.Swing thread 5.Interling 5.Zipper7.Hook &loop fastening 9.lignin 10.Sholder pad 11.Rivte 12.Lace,braid,&elastic 13.Collar insert, butter fly, plastic clip ,buckle , pin, poly bag. Bar code. Button: Buttons are hardware items used in junetion with buttonholes for the fastening of garments. Purpose: The purposes of using buttons are A) Functional purpose: This referee to buttons which are used to open and close garments with security. B) Decorative purpose: These are buttons which are used purely for decorative purpose .for example, Sleeve vents. Types of buttons: Buttons can be classified in various types, some are mentioned below. 1 According to line no .There are various types of buttons. Ligne is the measuring unit of button diameter .To maser the outer diameter of button we use ligne no 1 ligne = 0.025‟‟ or 0.0635 mm The button sizes are a16 L b.18L c.24L d.12L e.28L f .32L g.36L In shirts mostly we use 16L button is also used .In button (B.D) shirts 12L button are use d.
  • 4. Advanced Apparel Manufacturing AZMIR LATIF, MSc.Engr (Textile) In most common parts 24L button is used .Sometime times 26L snap button are also used. To purchase button the GG is very important. 1 (Grand Gross) GG=12*12*12=1728 pieces. 1 Gross= (dozon*12) 2. According to the no of holes: There are three types of button. A) 2-hole button B) 4-hole button C) Special button (a) shank button (b) snap button (c) decorative button used in sleeve. 3According to material: According to the manufacturing material there are the following types of button – Plastic button: This button are made of polyamide, polyester,polyacrylonitriteetc.they are cheap, not glossy and widely used in shirt. Metal button: They are used in denim pants, trousers etc. Wooden button: They are used in decorative and functional purpose Horn button: They are made up of horns of animals used in shirt, pants. Artificial horns are also used which are made up of nylon ,plastic and additives. Chalk button: It is used to make plastic glossy, used in shirt. Printed button: They are used only in decorative purpose. Rivet: Rivet is not used to open or close the opening the garments .They are used for the following purpose. a) Widely used for decorative and reinforcement purpose of denim or jeans garments. b) It has two parts and requires an appropriate device to attach on garments. Velcro: This item consists of two woven polyamide tapes one covered with very fine hooks and the other very fine loops .When pressed together they adhere securely to each other. This fastener
  • 5. Advanced Apparel Manufacturing AZMIR LATIF, MSc.Engr (Textile) is used instead of zipper and button. A Swiss inventor made this product and he offered the trade name „VELCRO‟ for it „VELCRO‟ come,s form two France words „velour‟ and „crochet‟. It is used in only a limited number of garments like shoes, belts ,sports were children wear,madecal textile etc. Zipper: Zipper Construction: A zipper consists of five Main Parts: 1. Chains 2. Slider 3. Tapes 4. Stops and 5. Pull. This is one kind of trimming which is use open and close of special parts of garments. Purpose: Functional: Functional purpose of zipper is as a part of a garment here zipper is used to open and close the openings. Decorative purpose: Where zipper is used as a decorative purpose, it inches the beauty of germens. Uses: In making trousers and jackets , chain or zipper is in essential component which is used to open or close of special parts of garment.
  • 6. Advanced Apparel Manufacturing AZMIR LATIF, MSc.Engr (Textile) Types of zipper: According to manufacturing material there are 3 types of zipper. 1. Metal zipper: Metal zipper is used in trousers and shorts. 2. Polyester zipper: Polyester or nylon zipper are used in jackets .It is made from a continuous filament paced onto narrow fabric tape. 3. Plastic - molded zipper: This types of zipper is used in pants. Slider: It is move up and down. Function of slider is to engage or disengage the teeth of opposite sides of chain. Slider mainly three types they are:- 1. Non –locking. 2. Semi-looking. 3. Full or auto locking. Label: Label is an attached component of garment on which important information regarding the garment are written or printed. No garment can be sold without some kind of label attached to it .Specially in case of exporting label on a garnets is must .For example the size of garment trade mark country of origin type of fiber etc, are written on label There are mainly 3 types of label . 1. Main label: Main label contains brand name or trade name of buyer which is registered by the buyer .For example Levis .Polo, lee etc. 2. Size label: Indicate the size of garment I e L, M, XL, XXL or collar length of shirt 15,16,17,18 etc. 3. Care label: It indicates the care instruction of the garment by some internationally recognized signs. It shows the washing, drying, dry-cleaning, and ironing conditions of garments. The all other labels are called sub –labels. Motif: The special component which is attached outside of the garement for decorative purpose is called motife.Company name ,trade mark or other symbols can be written on the motif. Hangtags:
  • 7. Advanced Apparel Manufacturing AZMIR LATIF, MSc.Engr (Textile) Hangtags are designed to draw attention to the garments and are hung on the side of the garments and sometimes in front of button line so that the customers can see them easily .Hangtags are printed paper tags hung from the garments by plastic staple or string. They usually show the brand name, style no, etc. It is regarded as finishing accessories, not sewing accessories. Lining: Lining are generally a functional part of garment .They are used to maintain the shape of a garment to the hang and comfort by allowing it to slide over other garment .Lining are are available as knitted and woven fabric made from polyester .polyamide .acetate, viscose for use where slippery material is required and from cotton, polyester cotton wool where decoration and worm handle is required. Linings are joined to main garment by sewing and for this purpose normal plain swing machines are used. Lining are widely used in jackets coats overcoats pockets flaps children wear etc .Genaraleycheap fabrics are used as lining material. Interlining: Interlining are used to support reinforce and control the shape of some areas of garments such as collar, cuffs, waist bands ,facings and in front of corts .They may be sewn into the garments or they may be attached by the fusing .Nowadays sewn interlining are hardly used and usable interlinings are widely used. Interlining is available in a wide variety of weights and constructions to mach the fabric of garment. They can be woven non –woven product .Woven interlining are most commonly of plain weave construction, whereas non-woven interlining are made directly from textile fibers and are held together by mechanical ,chemical ,thermal or solvent means or combination of these. Swing interlining is made by swing .Some plies of fabrics together by swing densely then it is joined with main garments by swing. Where fusible interlines have coating of thermoplastic material on them and are joined to the garment by adhering them with the help of pressure and heat. Fusible interlining give better result then that of sewn ones. Shoulder pad: Shoulder pad is a standard item in tailored garments both for women and for men. Linings are used on the top and bottom of shoulder pad.As a result the appearance become beautiful ,comfortable and lasts for long time. Shoulder pads are for functional purpose and some times for decorative purpose. Quality of trimmings: Trimmings may be of textile materials or non-textile materials. They should be selected carefully to get desired performance. The quality of trimmings are described below- 1. Lifetime: The life time of garments and that of the trimming should be equal .Otherwise the trimming
  • 8. Advanced Apparel Manufacturing AZMIR LATIF, MSc.Engr (Textile) will be faded or spoiled by washing, pressing, ironing, rubbing. 2. Shrinkage: The appearance of the garment may be hampered if the accessories shrink due to ironing, washing or pressing. Fore example seam pueker will be result in if the sewing thread shrinks. So the shrink ability of the dress material and the trimming should be checked earlier. 3. Color fastness: The fastness properties of accessories should be good. The color of trimming should not be faded due to washing or exposure to sunlight. The appearance of garment will be hampered if the trimming materials are faded. 4. Rust: Where items are made from metal, the main construction is the problem of rusting. The button, clamp, rivets etc may be made up the metals like iron, brass, steel etc .If rusting occurs they will create spot on garment. So to avoid this problem the metal trimmings should be electroplated or they should be made up of non-rusting materials. 5. Comfortability: Trimming should not create any uncomfortable felling to the wearer .They should be hygienic also as to cause no skin disease. KNOW WHY USE ACCESSORIES & TRIMS IN THE GARMENTS A supplementary part , object or the like, used mainly for functional convenience, attractiveness ,safety etc. Accessories /Trims types & using purpose: 1.Zip Fasteners: Functional accessories where long area need to cover 2.Metal Fasteners: Functional accessories where weight/fabric thickness high 3.Sewing thread: Functional accessories where stitching required 4.Reflective tape: Functional accessories when need to attract on darkness or low light 5. Cord and Pipings: Functional or sometimes decorative 6. Seam seal Tape: Special purpose work wear, safety wear etc. 7.Elastics: Functional accessories where flexible diameter is required. 8.Labels& Tags: Special purpose where need to mention some special instruction or Specific logo on product
  • 9. Advanced Apparel Manufacturing AZMIR LATIF, MSc.Engr (Textile) 9.Interlinling: Special accessories where special shape is required to maintained 10.Bias Bindings: Special purpose is to make the clothing design & placed at the edge- seamstresses and Tailors. It also used to bind and enclosed straight or curved area. 12.Hook& Loop: Functional accessories consists of two component Hook & Loop to make a bonding closure 13.Buttons: Functional accessories. A disk like piece of solid material having holes or Shank through which it is sewed to one side of an article of clothing and used to fasten. DIFFERENT TYPE OF GARMENT STITCHES Different type of Garment Stitches Are: a) Lock stitch b) Chain Stitch c) 3 Thread Over lock d) 4 Thread Over lock e) 5 Thread overlock f) Baby Lock g) Foot stitch h) Flat Lock i) Box stitch j) Stab Stitch k) Bar Tack l) Zig-Zag
  • 10. Advanced Apparel Manufacturing AZMIR LATIF, MSc.Engr (Textile) GARMENT ACCESSORIES/TRIMS NAME, USE & APPEARANCE IMAGE (PART 5) A) Strap Fastener B) Bias Bindings C) Label(Printed & Woven) &Tag (Cardboard) D) 2 hole Plastic button E) 4 hole Plastic button F) Interlining G) Twill Tape H) Heat Seal Tape(Use Work wear, Safety wear, police uniform)
  • 11. Advanced Apparel Manufacturing AZMIR LATIF, MSc.Engr (Textile) GARMENT ACCESSORIES/TRIMS NAME & APPEARANCE IMAGE(PART 2) A) Military Buckle B) Plastic Buckles C) Fame Buckle(Frame & Pin) D) Brace Clip/Dungaree Clip E) Claw F) Popper Press Fastener G) Metal Eyelet
  • 12. Advanced Apparel Manufacturing AZMIR LATIF, MSc.Engr (Textile) USE OF GARMENT EMBELLISHMENT & APPEARANCE IMAGE (Decorative Item) 1) Crochet Flower 2) Crochet Flower 3) Crochet Fruit 4) Satin ribbon bow 5) Satin Ribbon 6) Embroidery ribbon 7) String 8) Variety of Badge
  • 13. Advanced Apparel Manufacturing AZMIR LATIF, MSc.Engr (Textile) Functional and Non-Functional (Mock) garment accessories, Drawstrings, Cords/Ties (Children) Below are applies to Children‟s clothing only. Functional drawstring Cord, chain, ribbon, string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which passes through a channel, loop(s) or eyelet(s) or similar, has 2 loose hanging ends and is used to adjust the size of the opening, or part of the garment or to fasten the garment itself.
  • 14. Advanced Apparel Manufacturing AZMIR LATIF, MSc.Engr (Textile) Continuous drawstring Cord, chain, ribbon, string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which passes through a channel around the total circumference of a garment, has no loose hanging ends and is used to adjust the size of the opening. Two loose hanging ends cannot be knotted together to form a continuous drawstring. Non-functional (decorative) drawstring Non-functional cord, chain, ribbon, string or tape of any textile or nontextile material, of fixed length which has two loose hanging ends and is used to simulate the use of a functional drawstring, but is not in fact a drawstring and has no drawstring functionality and is not intended to be used to adjust the size of the garment opening or fasten the garment itself. Functional Cord/Tie Cord, chain, ribbon, string or tape of any textile or non-textile material, which is attached to the outside of the garment and is used to adjust the size of the opening, or part of the garment or to fasten the garment itself.
  • 15. Advanced Apparel Manufacturing AZMIR LATIF, MSc.Engr (Textile) Non-functional (decorative) cord/tie Non-functional cord, chain, ribbon, string or tape of any textile or nontextile material, of fixed length and not intended to be used to adjust the size of the garment opening or fasten the garment itself. Elastic Cord/Tie Cords containing yarns of rubber or elastodiene or elastic polymer or similar, having high extensibility & complete or near complete recovery. Halter Neck Cord/Tie Functional cord worn round the back of the neck holding the garment (for example dress, blouse or bikini) together leaving the shoulder and back bare. Loop Cord or narrow strip of fabric curved in shape, which maybe fixed or adjustable in length, where both ends are attached to the garment. Sash Drawstring, decorative or functional cord of textile material of not less than 3cm/1 ¼” in width worn round the waist area of a garment and tied in a bow. Functional and decorative loops Fixed loops that protrude from the garment also have length restrictions and safety must be considered when designing garments with either functional or decorative loops. The loop length must be measured end to end, the end being the point at which the loop is attached to the garment. The extension must be measured from the fabric surface to the centre of the loop when it is extended to its maximum without distorting the fabric surface.
  • 16. Advanced Apparel Manufacturing AZMIR LATIF, MSc.Engr (Textile) Any loops must not be more than 7.5cm (3”) in total loop length. Belt loops Belt loops can be used on garments designed for children 3 years and under. However, they must be a maximum of 4cm (1½”) in length between bar tacks. Belt loops must be attached so that they lie flat against the garment. This is to reduce the risk of entrapment. Belt loops must be securely attached and reinforced with a bartack. Back neck (locker) loops Back neck (locker) loops should be located in the centre back neck and positioned at the inside of a garment only. Hanger loops the use of hanger loops longer than 7.5cm (3”) in total circumference is not permitted for children‟s clothing.
  • 17. Advanced Apparel Manufacturing AZMIR LATIF, MSc.Engr (Textile) Button loops Using of button loops – maximum circumference 7.5cm (3”) – is permitted for childrens clothing. The length, however, should be restricted to the minimum required for fastening. Brass Pin (Accessories) Stopper Tag Pin (Accessories) Strings Collar stay Swivel hook Recco Shoulder tape Eyelet