Terry fabric is a knitted fabric with ring yarn or terry covering at one or both sides. It belongs to one of the fancy knitted fabrics. Terry fabric is characterized by soft touch, thick texture, excellent water absorption and heat retention. Terry fabric can be divided into single-sided and double-sided terry loop fabrics. The terry can form pattern effect on the knitting surface distributed according to some certain rules. Terry fabric after shearing or other process can be turned into fleece fabric or velvet fabric.
Terry fabric is a knitted fabric with ring yarn or terry covering at one or both sides. It belongs to one of the fancy knitted fabrics. Terry fabric is characterized by soft touch, thick texture, excellent water absorption and heat retention. Terry fabric can be divided into single-sided and double-sided terry loop fabrics. The terry can form pattern effect on the knitting surface distributed according to some certain rules. Terry fabric after shearing or other process can be turned into fleece fabric or velvet fabric.
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This presentation was made to have an elaborate sense of fabric spreading. Different types of fabric spreading and the pros and cons of different fabric spreading is illustrated into the presentation.
Sewing Machine Needle A to Z
written by
Md. Masudur Rahman
Department of Textile Engineering
4th Batch
National Institute of Textile Engineering and Research (NITER)
Contents…… . . .
The basic functions of a needle
Needle Parts
Needle Selection
Types of needle
Needle Size / Thickness
Various effects of wrong sewing needle selection in apparel industry has mentioned in the below:
1. When the needle is finer than sewing thread
2. When the thread is finer than needle
3. When the needle is coarser than required fabric
4. When the needle is finer than required fabric
Needle Parts:
1. Butt
The starting part of bottom edge of needle. Helps for easily attaching of needle with the needle bar or clamp
2. Shank
The bottom thicker part of the needle which is tied in the needle clamp or the needle set screw. It may be cylindrical or flat in size. It supports the needle as a whole by providing additional strength
3. Shoulder
The intermediate section between the shank and the blade of needle. When the needle penetrate through the fabric to reach its lower position, then the shoulder also penetrates through the fabric. As a result it reduces the friction between needle & fabrics by producing a wider hole on fabric.
4. Blade
The needle portion extends from the shank to the eye. This is subjected to the greatest amount of friction and hence heat when it passes through the material. Blade is gradually tapered to tip
5. Long groove(s)
It is a long and thin groove, presents in one side of the needle blade . During up and down of needle through sewing, the sewing thread take place in this groove and reduce the frictions between fabric, needle and thread. It provides a protective channel and reduce possibility of damaging thread due to frictions.
6. Short groove
It is formed on the other side of long groove, towards the shuttle, hook, or looper and it assists in throwing the loop of needle thread
7. Eye
The eye of the needle is present in the bottom end of the blade. Needle thread allowed through this eye is taken to the bottom area. It helps to create loop
8. Scarf (Clearance)
It is a curved slot, a clearance cut in the needle blade just above the eye to permit a closer setting of the shuttle, hook, or looper to the needle. As a result, it is easy to catch the needle loop by the looper hook.
9. Point
It is the part from needle eye to the tip. The point of the needle is shaped to provide the most suitable penetration of the material being sewn according to its nature and the desired stitch effect
10. Tip
The ending edge pf needle is called tip. It helps to penetrate the needle into the fabric and create hole during sewing.
Pilling is formation of little balls of fibers (pills) on the surface of a fabric which is caused by abrasion in wear.
Pilling is the tendency of fibers to come loose from a fabric surface and form balled particles of fiber
The file contains a descriptive information of garment seams.
You can find a video with Bengali description of the below link
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QXpg0MbzaQo&t=918s
To day I upload a new topic for you. I think it will be help you for your improvement .
So follow me , I will provide you more important topic which is facing in my job experience.
This presentation was made to have an elaborate sense of fabric spreading. Different types of fabric spreading and the pros and cons of different fabric spreading is illustrated into the presentation.
Sewing Machine Needle A to Z
written by
Md. Masudur Rahman
Department of Textile Engineering
4th Batch
National Institute of Textile Engineering and Research (NITER)
Contents…… . . .
The basic functions of a needle
Needle Parts
Needle Selection
Types of needle
Needle Size / Thickness
Various effects of wrong sewing needle selection in apparel industry has mentioned in the below:
1. When the needle is finer than sewing thread
2. When the thread is finer than needle
3. When the needle is coarser than required fabric
4. When the needle is finer than required fabric
Needle Parts:
1. Butt
The starting part of bottom edge of needle. Helps for easily attaching of needle with the needle bar or clamp
2. Shank
The bottom thicker part of the needle which is tied in the needle clamp or the needle set screw. It may be cylindrical or flat in size. It supports the needle as a whole by providing additional strength
3. Shoulder
The intermediate section between the shank and the blade of needle. When the needle penetrate through the fabric to reach its lower position, then the shoulder also penetrates through the fabric. As a result it reduces the friction between needle & fabrics by producing a wider hole on fabric.
4. Blade
The needle portion extends from the shank to the eye. This is subjected to the greatest amount of friction and hence heat when it passes through the material. Blade is gradually tapered to tip
5. Long groove(s)
It is a long and thin groove, presents in one side of the needle blade . During up and down of needle through sewing, the sewing thread take place in this groove and reduce the frictions between fabric, needle and thread. It provides a protective channel and reduce possibility of damaging thread due to frictions.
6. Short groove
It is formed on the other side of long groove, towards the shuttle, hook, or looper and it assists in throwing the loop of needle thread
7. Eye
The eye of the needle is present in the bottom end of the blade. Needle thread allowed through this eye is taken to the bottom area. It helps to create loop
8. Scarf (Clearance)
It is a curved slot, a clearance cut in the needle blade just above the eye to permit a closer setting of the shuttle, hook, or looper to the needle. As a result, it is easy to catch the needle loop by the looper hook.
9. Point
It is the part from needle eye to the tip. The point of the needle is shaped to provide the most suitable penetration of the material being sewn according to its nature and the desired stitch effect
10. Tip
The ending edge pf needle is called tip. It helps to penetrate the needle into the fabric and create hole during sewing.
Pilling is formation of little balls of fibers (pills) on the surface of a fabric which is caused by abrasion in wear.
Pilling is the tendency of fibers to come loose from a fabric surface and form balled particles of fiber
The file contains a descriptive information of garment seams.
You can find a video with Bengali description of the below link
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QXpg0MbzaQo&t=918s
Stitch and seam are related to each other because seam cannot made without stitch and vice versa. Stitch is the unit of seam made by three principle i.e.
interlooping , intralooping , interlacing to join two ply of fabric. Stitch are very important in apparel making. It is not possible to make a single garment without stitch
A line along which two or more fabric parts are joined by sewing is called seam.
Again A stitch line where fabrics are joined together by various fabric arrangements.
So we can say that the line of joining fabric is called seam.
Class 100 - Chain stitch
1.One of the simplest stitch types, the chain stitch has one or more needle threads and is formed by Intra looping.
2.This stitch is very Insecure and unravels easily if a stitch is broken or skipped or if the last loop is not fastened securely.
3.This stitch is used for sewing buttons and buttonholes, hemming, basting and pad stitching.
Class 200 - Rand Stitch
1.Generally formed by hand, the hand stitch is made with a needle that is passed from one side of the material to the other as a single line of thread.
2.The most important machine to duplicate this stitch is a pick stitching machine, which is used as a decorative detail on the other edges of jackets.
Feed system plays a vital role for fabric feeding and it's movement
Apparel Engineering II describes different types of feed system in garment industry.
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Stitch and it's classification (part 1)
1. Presented By
Md. Shamsuzzaman
B.Sc. (WUB), M.Sc. (BUTEX)
Lecturer,
Department of Textile Engineering
World University of Bangladesh
Contact: +880 1814 868653
Email: shamsuzzaman@textiles.wub.edu.bd
6/22/2020Slide Prepared by- Md. Shamsuzzaman
Stitch (Part-1)
Course Name: Apparel Engineering II
Course Code: TE 703
2. 1. Definition of stitch
2. Stitch Types
3. Application of different stitch types
4. Differences between Chain-stitch and Lockstitch
6/22/2020Slide Prepared by- Md. Shamsuzzaman 2 of 23
3. 6/22/2020Slide Prepared by- Md. Shamsuzzaman 3 of 23
In other word, one unit of the
configuration resulting from one or
more loops or strands of sewing
thread formed by intra-looping or
interloping or interlacing.
A stitch is a three dimensional configuration of sewing thread in a
specific repeated unit on or over one or more plies of fabric.
Fig: Stitch
5. 6/22/2020Slide Prepared by- Md. Shamsuzzaman 5 of 23
Stitch class 100 : (single thread) chain stitch.
Stitch class 200 : Stitches originating as hand stitch.
Stitch class 300 : Lock stitch.
Stitch class 400: Multi-thread chain stitch.
Stitch class 500: Over edge chain stitch.
Stitch class 600: Covering chain stitch
Stitches are classified in 6 classes,
6. 6/22/2020Slide Prepared by- Md. Shamsuzzaman 6 of 23
The stitch types within the class 100 are formed by one or more loops
of thread that are passed through the material and secured by intra-
looping with a succeeding loop or loops
Application
Button sewing, button hole sewing and
blind hemming or felling.
temporary joining, positioning, collar, cuff
etc. E.g. Basting.
Also used for gathering appearance.
Disadvantages :
– Security of stitch is very poor. If one end of
the thread is
pulled, then the whole sewing will be opened
7. 6/22/2020Slide Prepared by- Md. Shamsuzzaman 7 of 23
This type of stitch is clearly seen from the back side, but not from the front
side.
Mainly uses in Button holing, button attaching, hemming.
This is not long lasting stitch
8. 6/22/2020Slide Prepared by- Md. Shamsuzzaman 8 of 23
It is made by special type of needle and sewing machine, which is called
pick stitch sewing machine
Needle thread is passed from one side to another side in the fabric and
makes a sewn line
This class of stitch looks like domestic hand stitch.
Disadvantages :
Time consuming operation.
Higher cost.
Speed of sewing is very slow.
Rare in use.
Applications :
Used in lapel of jacket, coat
and expensive clothes.
Stitch type-209 is used for
edge of the jacket.
9. 6/22/2020Slide Prepared by- Md. Shamsuzzaman 9 of 23
Minimum two groups of threads are required
One group is known as needle thread and another is known as bobbin
thread.
This type of stitch requires interlacing of needle and bobbin threads to
form the stitch.
General purposes are sewing, joining different components
during garments making, top stitching etc
Stitch class 301 is the common type.
Stitch type 304 is zigzag type, used for attaching lace, elastic and so on
Advantages:
» Stitches are secured,
higher strength and
extensibility (around 30%).
» Both side of this stitch
looks same.
» More secured stitch than
chain stitch
Disadvantages:
» The main problem of lock
stitch is the lower capacity
of bobbin thread
requires frequent bobbin
thread changing.
» Not suitable for knit
fabric sewing
11. 6/22/2020Slide Prepared by- Md. Shamsuzzaman 11 of 23
Stitch class 400: Multi thread chain stitch
Stitches are formed by two or more set of threads.
One set of thread is called needle thread and another set is called looper
thread.
The loop of one set thread is passed through the fabric and bound with
another set of thread by interlacing and interlooping.
Stitch type 401 is the most common among 400 class.
The front side of the stitch is looks like lock stitch and the back side is seen as
double chain
Sometimes this type of chain stitch is called double locked stitch, because one
needle thread is bound with two loops of the lower thread
12. 6/22/2020Slide Prepared by- Md. Shamsuzzaman 12 of 23
Stitch Type 401
Stitch Type 404: Zigzag
Stitch Type 406
13. 6/22/2020Slide Prepared by- Md. Shamsuzzaman 13 of 23
Applications :
» Stitch type-401 is used for long sewing in the jeans and trousers. Also
this type of stitch is used with over edge stitch.
» Stitch type-406,407 is used for joining lace, braid, elastic with the
garments
Advantages:
» Strength of 401 is higher than 301.
» Less possibility of producing seam pucker.
» Extensibility is same as Lock stitch.
» Chain stitch can be made by comparatively less
tension of thread, so
that this classes of stitch is produced with high
speed.
» SPM of chain stitch machine is 8000, where
SPM of lock stitch machine
is 6000
Disadvantages:
» Lower resistance to runback and
have increase the bulk under the
seam
14. 6/22/2020Slide Prepared by- Md. Shamsuzzaman 14 of 23
Stitch are formed from 1 or 2 needle with looper threads.
At least one thread passes around the edge of the material.
Over edge stitches are used to neaten and to bind the cut edge.
Just before stitch formation fabrics end is cut by a knife to prepare
edge neatening seam.
Also called over lock stitches.
Width of stitch may vary from 3 to 5 mm.
Type 504: 3 thread Over edge chain stitch
Type 502: 2 thread Over edge chain stitch
Type 503: 5 thread Over edge chain stitch.
15. 6/22/2020Slide Prepared by- Md. Shamsuzzaman 15 of 23
Applications:
» Stitch type-504 is used for decoration of fabric end.
» It is also used in combination with lock stitch and chain stitch.
» For light fabric stitch type-512 is used.
» For coarse fabric such as denim, jeans, cord stitch type-514 is used
Advantages:
» Extensibility is higher ( up to 30%)
Disadvantages:
» This stitch type is prone to seam grinning (the threads are exposed when the
seam is pulled at right angles to the line of sewing).
» The finish may be somewhat bulky due to the complexity of the seam
construction
16. 6/22/2020Slide Prepared by- Md. Shamsuzzaman 16 of 23
Stitch class 600: Covering chain stitch
Features:
Stitch ifs formed from 3 thread system.
One group is called needle thread, another is called top cover
thread and the rest one is bottom cover thread.
Specially used for making flat seam on knitted fabric.
Stitches are very complex and may used up to 9 threads.
Sometimes used for decorative purpose
17. 6/22/2020Slide Prepared by- Md. Shamsuzzaman 17 of 23
Stitch class 600
Applications:
• Stitch type-602 is used for attaching tape, lace, braid, elastic to knit fabric.
• Stitch type-606 is used for making knitted undergarments. It is also used for
decorative purpose.
• For making cover stitch, top stitching in the fabric edge this type is also used
Disadvantages:
• Stitches under this group are very complex and
may need up to 9 threads
20. 6/22/2020Slide Prepared by- Md. Shamsuzzaman 20 of 26
Chain Stitch Lock Stitch
Stitches are formed by two or more
sets of threads: Needle Thread and
Looper Thread
Stitches are formed by at two sets of
threads: Needle Thread and Bobbin
Thread
Threads are bound together by
interlacing and interloping
Threads are bound by interlacing
Looks like lock stitch at top side and
double chain at under
Appearance is similar in both sides
of the fabric.
Strength is higher than lock stitch Strength is lower than chain stitch.
Possibility of seam pucker formation
is more than lock stitch
Possibility of seam pucker formation
is less than chain stitch
Difference between CHAIN STITCH and LOCK STITCH
