The document discusses various types of seams and stitches used in fabric manufacturing, identifying different seam classes and stitch types according to British standards. It covers the principles of stitch formation, the mechanisms of sewing machine feeds, and the components and classification of sewing needles. Additionally, it addresses the role of needles in sewing, including needle points and their respective applications for different fabric types.

1. Seam/Swing/Swing
threads/Trimmings and
Accessories

2. Name : AZIZUL HAQUE JUEL
ID: 112-23-2538
Batch: 18th Batch (Session 2011-2015)
Major: Fabric Manufacturing
Email: azizulhaque230@gmail.com
Blog: www.textilestudypoint.blogspot.com
Department of Textile Engineering
Copyright © All Rights Reserve
DAFFODIL INTERNATIONAL UNIVERSITY
DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING
102, SHUKRABAD, MIRPUR ROAD, DHANMONDI, DHAKA-1207
BANGLADESH

3. SEAM
 A line along which two or more fabric parts
are joined by sewing is called seam.
 Again A stitch line where fabrics are joined
together by various fabric arrangements.
 So we can say that the line of joining fabric
is called seam.

4. 5. Seam class – 5 ( Decorative
seam )
 This type of seam is made
by making one or more
adjacent stitch lines in one
or more layer of fabric.
 Multi -needle sewing m/c is
used to produce seam.
 This type of seam is called
Decorative stitching.
 This seam is produced and
used to increase the beauty
or decorative value of fabric.

5. 6. Seam class – 6 ( Edge
neatening )
 This type of seam is
used to bind the edge of
fabric so that the thread
cannot open.
 Various stitches are
used to make this type of
seam.
 It can be made by over
lock m/c.
 Extensively used.
 If folder is used, the
seam can be made
easily.

6. 7. Seam class – 7(Applied Seam)
 Similar to lapped seam
(class – 2), but the
joined component is
extended limited on both
sides from sewn line.
 This is used for joining of
different parts of
garments with additional
thing as lace, elastic
braid, and elastic.

7. 8.Seam class – 8(Others)
 Mainly one piece of
fabric is used.
 The edges of the fabric
are sewn by folding in
various ways.
 Seam is made in one
time completed by twine
needle m/c and folder.
 Belt and belt loops can
be made by this seam.

8. STITCH
Loop or loops of one or more threads
when bounds with each other, either by
interlacing, interloping, intra-looping or
combination of those when sewing
fabric, each unit of such configuration is
called stitch.

9. LOOPS FORMATION METHODS
 Interlacing: During stitching
when one loop of one thread
passes over another loop of
another thread is called
interlacing.
 Inter-looping: When loop of
one thread passes through
the loop of another thread is
called inter-looping.
 Intra-looping: When a loop
of one thread passes through
the loop of same thread
during sewing is called intra-
looping.

10. Stitch Type
Stitches are grouped in 6 classes according to
British standard 3870:1991 as follows-
 Stitch class – 100 (Single thread chain stitch )
 Stitch class – 200 (Hand stitch )
 Stitch class – 300 (Lock stitch )
 Stitch class – 400 (Multi thread chain stitch )
 Stitch class – 500 (Over edge stitch)
 Stitch class – 600 (Covering chain stitch)

11. 1. Stitch class – 100 (Single
thread chain stitch )
• Stitches are formed by
intra-looping.
• One or more needle
thread is used for stitch
formation.
• Security of stitch is very
poor.
• Temporary joining,
positioning, hemming,
button holing, button
attaching purposes.
• Used for gathered
appearance as
temporary joining i.e.
collar positioning, flap
positioning.

12. 2. Stitch class – 200 (Hand
stitch )
• Looks like domestic hand
stitch.
• It is produced from single
thread.
• Needle thread is passed
from one side to another
side in the fabric and makes
a sewn line.
• This stitch is made by
special type of needle and
sewing m/c.
• Very rare used in the
garments manufacturing unit
due to higher cost and
limited length of sewing.
• Time consuming operation.

13. 3.Stitch class – 300(Lock stitch)
• At least two groups of threads are required.
• One group of thread is called needle thread and another group of
thread is called bobbin thread.
• Extensibility is around 30%.
• Appearance of lock stitch is similar in both sides of the fabric.
• Security of stitches is very good.
• Abrasion resistance of lock stitch better.
• The main problem of lock stitch is the lower capacity of bobbin
thread requires frequent bobbin thread changing.
• Not suitable for knit fabric sewing.
• Extensively used in sewing and fabric attachment as pocket, collar,
cuff, facing etc.
• Used in top stitching, button holing, button attaching, blind stitching
etc.

14. 4. Stitch class – 400 (Multi
thread chain stitch )
• Stitches are formed by two or more groups of threads.
• One group is called needle thread and another is called looper
thread.
• Threads are bound together by interlacing and inter-looping.
• Multi thread chain stitch is also called double locked stitch.
• Possibility of seam pucker formation is less.
• Extensibility is same as Lock stitch.
• Used for long length sewing, heavy fabric sewing attaching lace,
braid, elastic etc.

15. 5. Stitch class – 500 (Over edge
stitch)
• Stitches are formed by two or more groups of threads.
• At least one group of thread passes around cut end of the fabric.
• Fraying is stopped by the stitches of 500 class.
• It is also called as over lock stitch.
• Extensibility of over edge stitch is higher (may be up to 30%).
• At the starting and finishing ends few inches thread to be left.
• Extensively used for knit fabric sewing.
• Also used for fabric sewing of denim, jeans, cord etc.

16. 6. Stitch class – 600 (Covering
chain stitch)
• Stitches under 600 class are formed by three groups of threads.
• One group is called needle thread and other is called top cover
thread and the other group is called bottom cover thread.
• Stitches under this group are very complex and may need up to
9 threads.
• Used for making knitted undergarments to attach tape, lace,
elastic.
• Also used for decorative purpose.

17. Sub-class of different type of
stitches
A. Lock stitch family: Class 300
1.Type-301: Lock Stitch
2.Type-301: Lock Stitch (Single-step zigzag)
3.Type-301: Lock Stitch (Double-step zigzag)
4.Type-301: Lock Stitch (2-needle+1bobbin thread lock stitch)
(Piping seam)
B. Over edge chain stitch family: Class 500
1.Type-501: Single thread over edge
2.Type-503: 2-thread over edge
3.Type-504: 3-thread over edge
4.Type-512: 4-thread over edge
5.Type-401.503: 5-hread over edge (2-thread over edge and
double chain stitch)

18. Continued………
C. Flat stitch family:
1.2-needle thread+1-looper thread
Appearance: 1-side zigzag, other side
2-needle thread
2.Type-602: Covering chain stitch(2-
needle thread+2-looper thread)
Appearance: Both side zigzag.

19. Merits and demerits of 301 &
304:
Stitch 301:Merits
 Seam extensibility is around 30 %.
 Seam strength is sufficient.
 Similar appearance on both sides of fabric.
 Stitches are secured.
 Abrasion resistance is better.
Demerits:
 Lower capacity bobbin thread requires frequent bobbin thread changing.
 Not suitable in knitted garments.
Stitch 304:Merits
 Zigzag type.
 It is used for lace or elastic attachment on garments.
 Extensibility comparatively high than 301.
Demerits:
 Not applicable to all attachment.

20. PRINCIPLE OF LOCKSTITCH
FORMATION
 Lock stitch is formed with
two groups of threads i.e.
needle thread and bobbin
thread.
 The needle moves
downward and reaches the
extreme lowest position.
Again it rises up a bit and
stops for a while. As a result,
a loop is formed in the
needle thread.

21.  At the same time,
thread take up lever
also moves
downward. So it aids
the formation of
needle loop.
 Then needle loop is
enlarged.

22.  The bobbin holder hook
catches the previously
produced needle loop
and passes it over the
bobbin case.
 Interlacing takes place
between bobbin thread
and needle thread loop.

23.  The needle along with
needle thread moves
and the thread take up
lever also moves up.
 Here loop clears bobbin
and take up starts to
draw thread up.

24.  Here take up draws
thread up and loop is
closed.

25.  Here feed material
moves for next stitch
position.

26.  Then needle
descends to lowest
point of stroke for
subsequent stitching.

27.  Finally new loop has
been formed and is
passing around
bobbin.

28.  At last loop is pulled
up to make a
complete stitch.

29. PRINCIPLE OF CHAIN STITCH
(needle thread + looper thread)
FORMATION

35. Difference between chain stitch
& lock stitch
Chain stitch Lock stitch
1.Stitches are formed by two or more
groups of thread- needle thread and
looper thread.
1.At least two groups of thread-needle
thread and bobbin thread.
2.Threads are bound together by
interlacing and interloping.
2.Threads are bound by interlacing.
3.Strength and thread consumption is
higher than lock stitch.
3.Strength and thread consumption is
lower than chain stitch.
4.Extensibility is 30%. 4.Same, sometimes less than that.
5.Looks like lock stitch at top side and
double chain at under.
5. Appearance of lock stitch is similar in
both sides of the fabric.
6.Possibility of seam pucker formation is
less than lock stitch.
6.Possibility of seam pucker formation is
less than chain stitch.

36. SEWING MACHINE FEED
MECHANISM
Basic Function:
 To advance the fabric in the feeding zone of the sewing
m/c.
 To decide the length of individual stitch that is SPI.
 To form the individual stitches properly.
Necessity of sewing m/c feed mechanism:
 For better appearance and performance.
 For avoiding seam pucker.
 For avoiding any stitching defect.
 For feeding the fabric in the sewing m/c uniformly.

37. TYPES OF SEWING MACHINE
FEED MECHANISM
Types of feed mechanism:
• Drop feed mechanism.
• Differential bottom feed.
• Adjustable top feed system.
• Needle feed mechanism.
• Unison feed mechanism.
• Puller feed mechanism.

38. Puller feed mechanism
• It is the modification of drop
feed mechanism.
• This mechanism is a way of
providing positive control of the
plies.
• Two rollers give a pulling motion
on the fabric immediately behind
the pressure foot.
• The top roller is generally driven
by the m/c whilst the lower one
moves in contact with the upper
one.
• The surface speed of puller
roller is more than feed dog
surface speed due to which no
possibility of ply shifting or
roping.
• This feed is useful in multi
thread stitching of parts.

39. Differential bottom feed
• This feed mechanism is the modification
of drop feed mechanism.
• In this system, the feed dog is divided into
two sections.
• The movement of each section is similar
to the movement of the whole feed dog is
the drop feed system but the speed of
each part can be adjustable separately.
• When the speed of the front feed dog is
greater than that of the back feed dog, the
bottom ply is pulled by the back feed dog,
which will overcome the tendency of the
front feed dog to take in that ply.
• When the speed of the front feed dog is
less than that of the back feed dog, we get
a lacy or marginal effect because the
feeding effect is greater than the delivery
speed.
• Differential bottom feed is found in chain
stitch, lock stitch and over edge stitch
m/c.

40. Drop feed mechanism
 It is the most common and simplest feed
mechanism. It has 3 main components such
as-
• Feed plate / Throat plate:
1. It is made of stainless steel and its
surface is of very smooth. Due to smooth
surface fabric can be feed on it easily and
it sometimes called needle plate.
2. It has one or more slots into which feed
dog can move forward and backward.
3. It has a hole through which needle can
go up and down. The size of this needle
hole should not exceed more than 30% of
needle size.
4. If needle hole size is 30% larger of needle
size, the fabric can be pushed into the
hole with each penetration of the needle
which called Flagging and create
defective stitch.

41. Continued…….
 Feed dog: The main task of feed dog is to
move (advance) the fabric along by a
predetermined amount between successive
stitches.
 Pressure foot: Stationary pressure foot is
used to give pressure on fabric with spring.
So that fabric can not move up and down
with needle. The lower surface of the
pressure foot is very smooth so that friction of
pressure foot with fabric becomes less.

42. Problems and remedies of drop
feed mechanism
Problem:
• When piece of feed dog and piece of stitch is equal then
fabric may be damaged and seam strength can be
decreased.
• When two plies of fabric are sewn by drop feed system two
plies of fabric can not move forward at the same speed.
Here lower ply is more feed than upper ply.
Remedies:
• Skill ness of the operator.
• Need manual technique such that stitch length and pitch of
feed dog may not be equal.

43. NEEDLE
 Needle is used to sew the fabric by thread.
Way of needle movement is related to:
 Seam strength.
 Seam appearance.
 Seam durability.
Functions of needle in the sewing m/c:
 To make a hole in the fabric without damaging the threads of
the fabric.
 To make a needle thread loop.
 To pass the needle thread loop through the loop or loops of
the looper thread, in case of other m/c than lock stitch.

44. Different components of a
needle
1.Butt
2.Shank
3.Shoulder
4.Blade
5.Long groove
6.Short groove
7.Needle eye
8.Scarf
9.Needle point
10.Tip

45. Functions of different
components of a needle
 Butt: For setting the needle on to the needle bar or clamp.
 Shank: Upper part of the needle which is tied in the needle bar
and which supports the needle.
 Shoulder: Middle part of the shank and blade is shoulder. It
helps to make the hole of the fabric and strengthen the needle
blade.
 Blade: Longest part of the needle from the shoulder to needle
eye. In this portion, friction between fabric and needle is
maximum. Blade is gradually tapered to tip.
 Long groove: The long and thin groove between shoulders to
needle eye in the blade is called long groove. When the needle
penetrates the fabric with needle thread, needle thread takes
position in the long groove.

46. Continued…….
 Short groove: It extends little above and below the needle
eye. It helps to make the needle loop.
 Eye: The hole present in the front of the needle is called
eye. It extends from long groove to short groove. Eye
through which sewing thread is passed.
 Scarf: The groove of the needle above the eye is called
scarf. Its purpose is to enable the closer setting of hook or
looper to the needle.
 Point: The portion from the eye to the tip of the needle is
called point. Point should be different for different type of
fabric.
 Tip: the last (extreme end) part of the needle is called tip. It
helps to create hole in the fabric during sewing.

47. Classification of needle point
The portion from the eye to the
tip of the needle is called needle
point.
Two types of needle point-
A. Cutting point.
B. Cloth point.
• Ball point.
• V – Point / set point.
A. Cutting point: Cutting
point needles are used for
sewing of sheet type
materials like leather, plastic
etc. In these materials, there
is no gap within the
structure. Three types of
cutting points:
1. Wedge point.
2. Cross point.
3. Twist point.

48. Continued……..
B. Cloth point: Cloth point /
Round point needles used for
sewing cloths. The point of
cloth point needle is round.
Two types of cloth points:
1.Set point.
2.Ball point.
 Set point: Set point needles
used for sewing woven
fabrics.
3 types of set points namely:
• Slim set point: For sewing
densely woven fabric or
top stitching like collar,
cuff and pockets.
• Set point: For sewing
medium densely woven
fabrics.
• Heavy set point: For
sewing buttons ( attaching
buttons)

49. Continued……..
 Ball point: Ball
point needles used
for sewing knitted
garments.
Ball point needles
are of 3 types:
 Light ball point.
 Medium ball point.
 Heavy ball point.

50. Needle size expression
Metric system (Nm):
Easy process, most usable, based on blade diameter.
Needle size = Blade dia in mm X 100
= 0.8 mm X 100
=80 Nm.
Singer system:
5, 7, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17.
Needle system number more, needle coarser.
Relation between metric and singer system:
Metric no. Singer no.
55 7
65 9
75 10/11
80 12

51. The effect of needle size
If the needle finer than thread:
 The thread can not pass easily through the needle eye.
 Thread can not set in long groove.
 Friction between needle and thread increases so thread
may break or burn.
 Friction between thread and fabric increases so high
heat produces. As a result, fabric will be damaged.
If the needle coarser than thread :
 Thread can pass freely through needle eye.
 Coarser hole in the fabric due to coarser needle. So
fabric may be damaged as well as seam pucker may be
formed in compact woven fabric.

52. Causes of damaging needle point
 Needle heats with m/c parts specially throat
plate.
 Faulty fabric handling during sewing by m/c
operator.
 Needle deflection during sewing.
 During sewing of hard and harsh fabric, needle
point wear on fastly. e.g: jeans
 Improper needle size selection.
 Improper needle point selection.

53. Factors considered for needle selection:
 Needle size.
 Shank dia.
 Butt to needle eye length.
 Total needle length.
Why fabric damage / Factors:
 Needle point; improper selection of needle point.
 Quality of needle.
 Condition of needle; damaged needle.
 Needle size.
 Thread size.

54. Fabric damages due to needle point damages:
 In woven fabric, the thread of fabric or fibres in thread may be tear off;
As a result
• Seam strength reduced.
• Fluffy along sewing line.
 In knitted fabric, the thread loop in fabric may be tear off ; As a result
• Bad looking.
• Seam strength reduced.
Fabric damaged even using good needle:
 Wrong damaged selection of needle point.
 Wrong selection of needle size.
 Less sew ability property of fabric.

55. SEWING THREAD
Sewing thread variation depends on:
 Appearance and performance of a seam is
related to sewing thread.
 Thread construction fibre type and thread
finish size is also related to seam appearance
and performance.
 Thread size is related to needle size.

56. Classification of sewing thread
• Fibre type:
• Natural.
• Linen.
• Silk.
• Cotton.
• Viscose
• Synthetic.
• Polyester.
• Nylon thread.
• Aramid.
• PTFE.
• Construction.
• Mono filament.
• Multi filament.
• Textured thread.
• Core spun thread.

57. Properties of different types of
sewing thread
Linen
• Made of flax fiber.
• Strength and lusture – high.
• Problem – stiffness.
• Used only for higher strength of seam like tent, canvas, shoe
making.
• Not used in garments.
Silk
• Made of both continuous filament or broken filament.
• Strength – comparatively high.
• Extensively – higher.
• Lusture – high.
• More expensive.
• Used in costly garments or items silky ladies wear.
• Limited use due to cost.

58. Continued…….
Cotton
 Produced from natural fibre (cotton fibre).
 Normally made from higher grade cotton
fibre.
 Strength – less.
 Abrasion resistance – less.
 Cotton thread do not damage due to
generation of high heat.
 Widely used in gts in needle during sewing.
 In garments dyeing, cotton thread
unavoidable.

59. Continued…….
Cotton thread are of 3 types:
 Soft cotton thread:
• Securing, bleaching, dyeing, as well as finishing by lubricant.
• Shrinkage when wet and seam pucker formed during washing.
 Mercerized cotton thread:
• Finishing applied with caustic soda soln on tension.
• Does not shrink.
• Seam pucker less.
• Strength and lusture – greater than soft cotton.
 Glaced cotton thread:
• Glaced cotton thread made by surface coating on glaced
cotton.
• Stiffness, smoothness, Frictional resistance power increase.

60. Continued……
Viscose
 Made of continuous filament or staple fibre of regenerated cellulose.
 Strength and durability – low due to frictional resistance low.
 Lusture – high.
 Very cheap.
 Used in embroidery purposes.
 Suitable for the fabric which is not washed.
Polyester
 Made of staple fibre or filament.
 Strength – high.
 Elastic property – Good.
 Colour fastness – Good.
 Shrinkage property – good / reasonable.
 Not shrink up to 150ºC or does not create problem in washing even in
150ºC.
 Low cost.
 Available found and maxm used.

61. Continued…….
Nylon thread
 Made of staple or filament fibre.
 Extensibility – higher than polyester.
 Possibility of seam pucker unavoidable.
 Suitable used in the garments where crease are made.
 Used in knitted wear, swim wear.
 Limited used.
Aramid Thread
 Made of aramid fibre.
 Limited use because costly.
 Flame retardancy power.
 Used in flame retardant garments.
PTFE ( Polytetra Fluro Ethylene )
 Limited use due to costly.
 Flame retardancy power.
 Melting retardancy power.
 Chemical resistance power.
 Used in protective clothing.

62. Continued…….
Mono filament
 Made of one continuous filament.
 No twist on thread.
 Strength – More.
 Due to more stiffness, seam locking power is less.
 It has tendency of opening of sewing thread, causes
discomforts.
 It cut edge come in contact with skin, it causes skin diseases.
 No problem of shade matching due to filament being
transparent.
 Used in the garment which is not body or skin contact. e.g.
Over coat, rain coat.
 Restrict to normal garments.

63. Continued……..
Multi filament
 Made of one more continuous filaments.
 May have twist or not.
 Used in single or plied or corded forms.
 For flexible threads, filament yarns are
twisted, set, dyed, and lubricated.
 Strength and durability – high.
 Different types of threads have different
properties.
 Used in garments or leather goods.

64. Continued……
Textured thread
 Made by textured yarn or texturing
multifilament.
 Crimp is made in filament by texturing (False
twisting, air jet, edge crimping).
 No twist
 Hand feeling – Comfortable.
 Seam locking power – good.
 Made from polyester and Nylon filament.
 Used in knit wear, soft wear.

65. Continued…….
Core spun thread
 Made of combination of continuous filament and staple
fibre.
 Polyester filament as core and cotton fibres staple.
 Core spun threads are made by twisting of two or more
yarns.
 Strength equal to synthetic thread.
 Quality like cotton fibre.
 Shrinkage – less.
 No possibility of thread damage.
 At present, core spun thread produced by polyester filament
and polyester staple fibre.
 Used in high quality garments.

66. Thread finish
Objectives of finishing:
 To reduce friction between thread and
needle / fabric.
 To reduce damage of synthetic thread
with heat.
 To sewing easily and properly.
 To adjust special purposes.
 To reduce sewing thread breakage.

67. Characteristics / properties of lubricants used for thread
finish: /Features good quality thread lubrication:
• Lubricants should not close the needle eye.
• It must not create any stain on needle.
• It should not create any trouble to unwind threads from the thread
package.
• It must reduce the friction between m/c and thread.
• It should not cause any harm at high temp.
• Easy to apply on threads.
• Comparatively cheaper.
• Easily available.
• In water proof fabric/gts, must not damage the water resistance
power of threads.
• In flame proof fabrics, the lubricants applied on sewing threads,
must not damage the flame reterdancy power of threads.

68. Sewing thread finish
 Lubricant finish.
 Anti mildew finish.
 Water proof finish.
 Flame retardant finish.
 Root proof finish.
Anti mildew and root proof finish:
• In warm and dam condition, mildew effect is found in
thread then mildew proof and root proof finishing is
necessary.
• Anti mildew effect is found by applying special
finishing materials.

69. Continued……..
Water proof finishes:
 Water resistant finishes are applied to those threads
which are used for water proof like rain coats.
 The water repellent finish must be fast to washing or dry
cleaning.
Flame retardant finishes:
 Flame retardant thread must be used for flame retardant
garments.
 Threads will be flame repellent when special fibres or
special chemical finishes applied on them.
 Flame retardency may be damaged because of using and
frequently washing of garments.

70. Sewing thread size
Sewing thread size / sewing thread number: The number
which is used to express the fineness of a sewing thread
is called ticket number.
Ticket number is expressed in
 Cotton system.
 Metric system.
Cotton ticket number system:
 This system is derived from English cotton count (Ne).
Which refers to the no. of 840 yds hanks per 1 lb.
 Resultant count of the cotton sewing thread multiplied by
3 is the cotton ticket number.
 i.e. Ticket no. in Ne = 3.X
plyofNo
NecountYarn
= Resultant count X 3.

71. Continued……
Metric ticket number system:
 This system is derived from metric count
system which refers to the no. of hanks of
1000m per kg.
 Resultant metric yarn number multiplied by 3
is the metric ticket number. i.e. Ticket no. in
Nm =(Thread count in Nm/No. of ply)x3
 Higher the metric ticket number, finer the
thread.

72. Conversion:
 Ne = 0.59 X Nm
 Nm = (1000 meter /Tex) X 3.
 Ne = (590.5 / Tex) X 3.
Factors considered for thread size selection:
 Types of fabric.
 Wt of fabric.
 Stitch type.
 Types of seam.
 Needle size.
 Seam strength.
 Desired uses of thread.

73. Sewing thread packages
1.Spool:
 Smallest flanged bobbin
package.
 Bobbin made of wood or plastic.
 100 – 500 m threads parallely
wound on it.
 Except textured all kinds of
threads wound onto it.
2.Cop:
 Small cylindrical and flange less
tube.
 Thread cross – wound onto it for
stability.
 1000 - 2500m threads can be
wound onto it.
 Glaced thread and fine filament
can not be wound.
Fig: spool
Fig: Cop

74. Continued……….
3. Cone:
 Angular hallow tube made of
plastic.
 Above 5000m can be cross –
wound.
 All kinds of threads are wound on
it.
 Un wind of threads fastly.
 This is an ideal and most used
package in garments.
4.Vicone:
 Parallel tubes or low angled tubes.
 Polished thread and filament
thread wound.
 Less possibility of winding the
threads on package.
 Mostly used for smooth thread on
filament like embroidery thread.
Fig: Cone

75. Continued………..
5. Container:
 Large package.
 Filament sewing thread wound onto it.
 Threads which are not controlled in general
packages wound onto it.
6. Large package:
 Thread wound on large cone or tube.
 20,000m or above it wound onto it.
 Used in over edge and cover stitch m/c.

76. Continued…….
7. Cocoon:
 Special type of thread
package without support.
 Used in shuttle of special
quilting m/c.
8. Pre – wound bobbin
 Precision wound thread
package without support.
 Used instead of bobbin in
lock stitch m/c.
 More time required to
wind thread.
Fig: Cocoon
Fig: Pre – wound bobbin

77. Properties of sewing thread
 Tensile strength
 Tenacity
 Loop strength
 Loop strength ratio
 Elongation at break
 Stress / strain curve:
Elongation Property more  Curve big.
Elongation property less  curve small.
 Elasticity
 Shrinkage
 Abrasion resistance
 Color fastness

78. Sewing Machine
The joining of the fabric with needle and sewing thread is called sewing.
Sewing machine is very essential part of the garments industry.
Types of sewing m/cs: Two types of sewing m/cs
 Manually operated sewing m/c:
 Electrically operated sewing m/c:
Most common Manufacturing of sewing m/c:
 JUKI – JAPAN.
 BROTHER – JAPAN.
 SINGER – ENGLAND.
 BUTTERFLY – CHINA.
 PUFF.
 SERUBA.
 PEGASUS.

84. Features of basic sewing
machine
 Basic machines in garments industry used for numerous
application.
 Generally available in three versions:
• Sewing with light material.
• Sewing with medium material.
• Sewing with heavy material.
 Speed up to 6000 r.p.m with electronic controls for
acceleration and declaration.
 Electronically controlled thread cutting, needle positioning
mechanism through the foot pedal available in this machines.
 Programmable sewing sequence via a micro processor for
repetitive operations.
 A great variety of feed systems, attachments and apparatus
available to make the machine more versatile.

85. Different parts of a sewing
machine
A sewing machine consists of
the following parts-
1. Hand wheel
2. Bobbin winder pin
3. Horizontal spool pin
4. Thread guide
5. Bobbin winder tension disk
6. Thread guide
7. Take up lever
8. Face plate
9. Needle thread tension dial
10. Pressure foot
11. Needle plate
12. Free arm
13. Needle clamp
14. Thread guide
15. Reverse push button
16. Stitch length dial
17. Pattern selector dial
18. Pressure foot lifter
19. Thread cutter
20. Feed system
21. Slide of plate

86. Functions of different parts of a
sewing machine
 Hand wheel: helps to move the needle for sewing the
fabric.
 Bobbin winder pin: It winds the thread into the bobbin.
 Horizontal spool pin: helps to take the yarn package
 Thread guide: The threads are passed by the help of
thread.
 Bobbin winder tension disk: It controls the tension.
 Take up lever: helps the machine for defect free sewing.
 Needle thread tension dial: It maintains the tension of
needle thread.
 Pressure foot: It is used to give pressure to the upper
plate and make effective the sewing mechanism.

87. Continued………
 Needle plate: Needle penetrates into the fabric by the needle
plate.
 Needle clamp: Needle is attached with it for appropriate
position.
 Thread guide: Threads are passed through guide which
maintains uniform sewing and distance.
 Reverse push button: To make the machine reverse speed.
 Stitch length dial: It controls the stitch length or density.
 Pattern selector dial: It helps to sew according to the required
pattern.
 Pressure foot lifter: It helps to lift pressure foot.
 Thread cutter: It is used to cut the thread after sewing.

88. Mechanism of a sewing machine
 Motor is driven by electricity which drives the drive wheel.
 Drive wheel is related with upper drive shaft and lower
drive shaft with the help of pulley or belt.
 Upper drive shaft is connected with needle bar which
moves the needle up and down.
 Again thread tightening arm is related with needle bar for
uniform tension to the sewing thread.
 Lower drive shaft drives the feed dog as well as bobbin
and hook assembly.
 These operations are repeated and subsequent stitching
is done through needle movement.

89. Precautions considered before
sewing/Points considered before
sewing
The following maintenance points are to be considered carefully:
 M/c should be cleaned every day.
 Essential parts of the m/c should be lubricated or oiled regularly.
 Needle should be adjusted carefully.
 Needle thread, bobbin thread or looper thread should be threaded
correctly and their tension should be adjusted.
 The pressure of pressure foot should be adjusted.
 Stitch density should be adjusted.
 Switching (on/off) should be proper.
 M/c should be handled according to instruction.
 The hand wheel should always be rotated towards the operator.
 During fabric feed and with drawl, the needle should be picked at
the top most position and the pressure foot is lifted.

90. Yarn path of the sewing
machine
 In the sewing machine the sewing thread are passed through
the various thread guides to the needle position.
 First the thread comes from the horizontal spool pin then thread
guide.
 After passing the guide the thread goes to the thread guide
through the bobbin winder tension disk.
 Then passes the needle thread tension dial.
 Then the thread comes to the thread guide and passes the
needle clamp.
 Finally the thread penetrates the fabric for sewing by the help of
needle.

91. Features of different types of
sewing machine
• Lock stitch m/c:
 No. of needle –1 or 2.
 SPM (stitches per minute) 1500 – 5,500.
 Stitch length – 5mm
 Most commonly used for sewing of woven garments.
• Chain stitch m/c:
 No. of needle – one or more needle.
 No. of thread – one or more thread (Single thread or
multi thread).
 SPM – 1800 – 6000.
 Stitch length – 1.4 to 4.5 mm.
 Used in knitted wear and jeans.

92. Continued……….
• Over lock /Over edge m/c:
 No. of needle – one or 2 needle.
 No. of thread 2 – 5 threads.
 SPM 6500 – 8500.
 Stitch length – maxm 4mm and stitch length can be changed
by push button.
 Used for sewing both woven and knitted goods but
extensively used for knitted goods.
• Zig – zag stitching m/c:
 No. of needle – 1.
 No. of thread – two.
 Stitch length 2 – 2.5mm.
 SPM – 5500.
 Used in edge neatening or decorative top stitching or to fit
extra component e.g. elastic, tape, braid etc.

93. Continued………
• Flat lock m/c:
 No. of needle – upto 4.
 Thread – 4 to 9.
 SPM – 6000.
 Stitch density – 8 to 16 per inch.
 Both for woven and knitted gts but mainly used for knitted gts.
SIMPLE AUTOMATIC SEWING MACHINE :
• Button holing m/c:
 Stitch group – lock or chain stitch.
 Arrangement of button hole size being small or larger.
 Arrangement of stitch density being increased or reduced.

94. Continued………
• Button attaching m/c:
 Produces lock stitch, chain stitch or hand stitch.
 Various types button clamps needs for attaching various sizes
and types of button.
 In fully automatic m/cs, button feeding and positioning inside the
button clamp is performed by a hopper and pipe.
 It can attach predetermined no. of buttons at a predetermined
distance in a cyclic order.
• Bar tack m/c:
 Strong sewing in very short length in cyclic order.
 Used for jeans (mostly) sewing of belt loops, closing the ends of
button holes, for increasing strength at the ends of the pocket.
 After making tack stitch in short length (1 – 2cm), cover stitch
(zigzag) is made on tack stitch and the no. of cover stitch.

95. Work aids
The extra m/c parts which may be attached to
speed up the production and improve quality in
the sewing m/c are called work aid.
Objectives:
 To increase the production.
 To improve the quality of garments.
 To reduce the work – load on operator.
 To reduce the time for handling.
 To control the garments quality.

96. Different types of work aids
• Guide: Guides are used for correct sewing in predetermined position
or in a determined and proper distance from edge of fabric.
• Compensating foot: Used to sew at 1-2 mm (very little distance)
from the fabric ends.
• Specialized pressure foot: Specialized pressure foot used for
attaching of braid or elastic.
• Rack guide: Rack guide is used for the attachment of lace, braid,
elastic with the garments parts.
• Light: Special marker used which are not visible in normal light but
visible in ultra violet ray.
• Folder: Folder is device which is used to fold the fabrics prior to
sewing.
• Compressed air: Compressed air helps to increase the quality of
the products.
• Stacker: The gts are shifted from m/c to m/c in bundle or box form.
• Thread cutter: After sewing is completed, the thread is cut.

97. Sewing problems
Sewing problems consist of-
 Problem of stitch formation.
 Seam pucker.
 Fabric damage at the seam line.

98. 1. Problems of stitch formation
a) Slipped stitch: If the upper thread in continuous stitches
can not pick the lower thread i.e. binding miss during
stitch formation is called stitch.
Causes:
• Loop size or needle is small.
• Needle deflection or bending.
• Tension variation in lopper and needle thread.
• Hook or lopper or needle is not able to hold the thread
loop in proper time.
Remedies:
• Timing of (hook or lopper) with needle should be adjusted
properly.
• Adjust needle and thread size.
• Adjust tension property.
• Change of thread.

99. Continued……..
b) Staggered stitch: If the stitches produced by needle are
not parallel with the seam line, staggered stitches formed.
Causes:
 Needle vibration or deflection.
 Blunt or wrong needle point.
 Not proper adjust of needle size and thread size.
 Faulty movement controlling of fabric into the feed
mechanism.
Remedies:
 Needle size should be increased.
 Change of needle or thread size.
 Change of feed mechanism.

100. Continued……..
c) Un balanced Stitch: If the interlacement of the needle
thread and bobbin thread does not takes place at the
middle of two layers of the fabric then unbalanced stitch is
produced.
Causes:
 Incorrect tension of sewing thread.
 Incorrect passage of thread through the guide.
 Due to insufficient lubrication, (uneven) tension variation
increased.
Remedies:
 Adjust thread tension.
 Correct the passage of thread.
 Use good quality of thread.

101. Continued……..
d) Variable stitch density: If the no. of
stitch varied in the seam line per
unit length, then variable stitch
density occurred.
Causes:
 Insufficient pressure of pressure foot,
causing uneven feeding.
 Feed mechanism is not working
properly.
 Wear of feed mechanism.
 Lose of parts.
 Improper unwinding of thread.
 Twisting of needle in the bottom of
thread package.
 Fraying of thread in the needle.
 More tension in the thread.
 Becoming of more heating of thread
and hook.
 Use of low quality of thread.
Remedies:
 Uses of improved feed
mechanism.
 Increase of pressure of
pressure foot.
 Proper threading of sewing
thread.
 Thread can be changed.
 Proper use of lubricant.
 Use of good needle.
 Finer thread can be used.
 Tension in thread must be
adjusted.

102. Continued……..
e) Frequent thread breakage:
Causes:
 Improper unwinding of thread from package.
 Higher thread tension.
 Excess needle heating.
 Lower quality of thread.
Remedies:
 Reduce tension in tension in tension disc.
 Reduce thread tension.
 Use of strong yarn.
 Change the needle if required.
 Use coarser needle.
 Use of high quality needle.
 Use lubricant.
 Use needle cooler.
 Confirm oil supply.
 Change of thread.

103. Problems of seam pucker
Pucker is a wrinkled appearance along with sewing line.
a) Unequal stretch on fabric:
Causes :
 If two or more plies fabrics are sewn together, one ply will be feed more
than other and seam pucker create due to uneven stretch.
 This pucker formed due to limitation of feed mechanism.
Remedies:
 Improved feed mechanism of sewing m/c.
 Skilled operator and fabric handling would be special process.
b) Fabric dimension instability:
Causes:
 When two or more layers of fabric are sewn together and one layer shrinks
more than after washing differential seam pucker is formed.
Remedies::
 Shrinkage difference must be less than 2 %.
 We should test shrinkage of two types of fabric before sewing.

104. Continued………
c) Extension in sewing thread:
Causes:
 While sewing threads are subjected to tension and for tension thread will
be extended and after sewing when thread get chance of relaxation then
seam pucker formed.
Remedies:
 Tension of the thread should be kept as low as possible.
 By changing the sewing threads.
d) Sewing thread shrinkage:
Causes:
 After sewing, if the sewing threads shrinks due to wash or iron, then seam
pucker occurred.
Remedies:
 Shrinkage of sewing thread must be equal to the fabric shrinkage.
 Before sewing, the shrinkage property of both thread and fabric should be
known.

105. Continued……..
e) Fabric construction:
Causes:
 In a compact fabric high EPI and PPI, while sewing of such fabrics,
the threads are displaced around the needle and because of lack
of space, pucker may be seen along the holes created by the
needles.
Remedies:
 Very difficult to overcome this type of problem but to reduce the
problems following steps should be taken:
• By using fine / thin needle and fine / thin thread.
• Reduction of stitch density.
• Change the fabric if possible.
e) Mismatched patterns:
 If two pattern pieces of unequal length are joined, then one is
joined with another by creating contraction, seam pucker creates.

106. 3. Fabric damage at the seam line
Causes:
• This type of fault is mainly due to needle specially bent, blunt
or damaged needle.
• For this fabric damage, sewing strength becomes low and due
to more fabric damage, fabric may be tear off at the sewing
line.
• Fabric may be damaged with new and good needle if needle
size and needle selection is wrong.
• This fault is visible after washing and wear.
Two types of fabric damage can be occurred with needle at the seam
line:
 Mechanical damage.
 Needle heating damage.

107. Continued……….
a) Mechanical damage: To minimize the damage, the following steps are
taken:
• Needle size and point should be properly selected.
• M/c speed should be reduced.
• Application of lubricant.
• Test the sew ability before sewing of fabric.
b) Needle heating damage:
• The temperature in needle due to friction between needle and
fabric is up to 300 – 350ºC.
In this temp, needle or fabric both may be damaged.
• As synthetic fibers is melted at around 250ºC of needle. Groove
in needle and eye are closed.
We can solve the problem by-
Less speed of machine, proper needle size and shape, short
length of sewing, cool air use, lubrication.

108. Trimmings and Accessories
All the materials except fabric required to make a garments
are known as trimmings or accessories. Example: sewing
thread, button, zipper, label etc.
The name of sewing trimmings are:
 Sewing thread.
 Button.
 Lining.
 Interlining.
 Rivet.
 Label and motif.
 Zipper.
 Hook and loop fastness (VELCRO ).
 Lace, braid and elastic.
 Shoulder pad.

109. Label
Label is a part or
component of
garments which
indicates varies
instructions about
the garments.
Label
Main label
Sub label
Size label
Care label
Price label
Composition
label
Types of label:

110. Care label: Indicates the care instructions of the
garments by some internationally recognized
signs. It shows washing, bleaching, drying,
laundering, ironing, dry cleaning.
 Washing -
 Chlorine bleach -
 Ironing code -
 Dry cleaning condition -
 Drying condition -

111. Continued…….
This 5 symbols are different types:
1. Washing:
950C
600C
-Can be washed up to 950C
-Can be washed up to 600C
-Hand washing but not in washing machine.
-Can not be washed.

112. Continued……
2. Bleaching condition:
Chlorine bleach is
allowed.
Chlorine bleach is not
allowed.
3. Ironing condition:
Ironing in cold state
(110C)

Ironing in cold state
(150C)
 Ironing in cold state
(200C)Can not be
ironed.
 Can not be ironed
Cl
Cl

113. Continued………
4. Dry cleaning condition:
 Dry cleaning is allowed
in any types of solvent.
 Para-Chloro-Ethylene,
white spirit, solvent-113
and solvent-11 can be
used.
 White spirit of solvent-
113 can be used.
A
P
F

114. Continued………
5.Drying condition:
 Tumble drying is allowed.
 Tumble drying is not
allowed.
 Drying in hanging state is
allowed.
 Drying should be done in a
state parallel to the ground
but can be hanged.

115. Motif: To increase the attractiveness of garment a special component named motif
is attached on outside of garments. Some times motif contain company
name, trade mark or various kinds of symbols.
Types of buttons:
a) According to Ligne number (12 L, 16L, 18L, 24L etc.)
 Ligne no. is the measuring unit of button and indicates the dia of button.
1 Ligne = 0.025 inch.
b) According to material used:
1. Plastic button 2. Metal button 3.Wooden button 4.Horn button 5.Chalk
button 6.Printed button
c) According to no. of holes:
1. 2 hole button 2. 4 hole button.
d) Special button.
1.Shank button 2.Snap button 3.Decorative button.

116. Zipper
Types of Zipper:
According to
manufacturing
material, zipper
are of 3 types:
 Metal zipper
 Plastic – molded
zipper
 Polyester / nylon
coil zipper
Zipper elements in its
construction:
1.Tape
2.Chain
3.Slider
4.Top and
bottom
stop
5.Pull tab Fig: Zipper.

117. Quality of trimmings
The important qualities of trimmings are-
• Life time: The life time of garments and that of the
trimmings should be equal.
• Shrinkage: The shrink ability of the garments and the
trimmings should be checked earlier.
• Color fastness: The fastness properties of
accessories should be good.
• Rust: To avoid this problem, the metal trimmings
should be electroplated or they should be made up
of non – rusting materials.
• Comfort ability: Trimmings should not create any
uncomfortable feeling to the wearer.

118. Alternative method of fabric joining
Introduction:
The process which have been developed as alternative to sewing are
known as alternative methods of joining. Three methods are used instead
of sewing, these are:
1. Welding & Adhesive
2. Moulding
3. Fusing
Welding:
Welding is the process of garment manufacturing which involve the joining
together of thermoplastic materials by applying heat externally. It is mostly
used in hems.
Basic procedure of the method:
1. Heat applied on the fabric
2. Melting of thermoplastic materials
3. Applying pressure on melted material
4. Creation of bonding
5. Cooling
6. Fabric joined

119. Continued……….
Adhesive:
Adhesive is a substance which is sticky and
used for joining the fabric. It is mostly used
in edge neatening, water proofing seam etc.
Adhesive can be used by the following
ways-
 A coating of thin adhesive film on silicon
paper which is transferred to the fabric and
the plies of the fabric are joined.
 A material which melts by applying heat and
helps to join the fabric layers.

120. Continued….
Moulding:
 By moulding method the
required definite shape of
garments is found without
creating seam.
 Basic procedure of the
method:
1. The desired shape by
shrinkage
2. Heat apply
3. Thermoplastic fiber in
fabric becomes soften
4. Cooling
5. Desired shape

121. Continued………
Fusing:
 It is most useable alternative method of fabric joining.
 The joining of interlining by sewing is replaced b fusing.
 The main fabric of interlining contains resin or polymer coating.
 Resin or polymer coating side of interlining is placed on the
underside of shell fabric.
 By spreading this on smooth surface heat and pressure is
applied uniformly.
 As a result of heating polymer coating or resin melts and for
pressure this melted polymer enters into the fibre of interlining
and shell fabric.
 After drying shell fabric and interlining is joined by the forming
bonds between them.

122. Basic principle of Flat bed press
for fusing materials
 First place shell fabric on to the buck
 Placed interlining on to the shell fabric
 Keep head on to the buck
 Select time and pressure
 Switch on
 Then head will give pressure and heat
 Polymer coating or resin will melt for heating
 For pressure melted polymer will enter into the fibre of
shell fabric and interlining
 After drying formation of boning
 After certain period time machine will automatically stop
 Finally we will get the fused components

123. Pressing and finishing
 Pressing is the process to remove unwanted crease and crinkles
from the fabric to give it smoothness, lustrous and fine
appearance.
Objects of pressing:
 Removal of unwanted creases and crinkles
 To apply crease where necessary
 Shaping
 Under pressing
 Final pressing
Categories of Pressing:
• No Pressing.
• Minimum Pressing.
• Under Pressing.
• Final Pressing.
• Permanent Pressing.

124. Continued………
Pressing equipment & methods: Different
types of pressing machine is used for different
types of pressing as follows-
 Iron (traditional, electric, steam iron)
 Steam process( Head and buck)
 Steam air finish or dolly press (form or dummy
without sleeve:8 sec steam+ 8 sec hot air)
 Steam tunnel (hanger with moving rail,
temperature controlling chamber)