The document discusses various types of stitches used in apparel manufacturing, highlighting their importance and characteristics. It categorizes stitches into six main classes: chain stitch (class-100), hand stitch (class-200), lock stitch (class-300), multi-thread stitch (class-400), over edge stitch (class-500), and covering chain stitch (class-600), detailing their formation, applications, and advantages. The conclusion emphasizes the relevance of understanding these stitches for professional development in the fashion and apparel industry.

1. Page | 1
ASSINGMENT ON
VARIOUS TYPES OF STITCHES USED IN
APPAREL
COURSENAME: Sewing Tools & Techniques
COURSECODE:AMM1201
Submitted to
Ms.Siddika Haque
Lecturer,Dept.of AMM,BGMEA University of Fashion &
Technology
Submitted by
Shahriar Haque
182-084-111

2. Page | 2
Acknowledgement
I thank to my honorable Siddika Haque MAM to offer me an assignment on the topic
VARIOUS TYPES OF STITCHES USED IN APPAREL .I thank to share her knowledge with
us on this topic. She helped us to understand about stitch types used in apparel. She has
offered us variety ofknowledge and her experience. She is our Sewing Tools & Techniques
Teacher and she has clearly taught us about this topic .We admire her for different plans
and ideas.

3. Page | 3
INTRODUCTION
Stitch
Stitch is very important during manufacturing a garment. Stitch can be defined as, one unit
ofconformation resulting from one or more strands or loops of thread by intra-looping, inter-
looping and interlacing. Stitch quality is measured with stitch size, stitch length, width, depth,
tension, sequence, elongation, elasticity, resilience, fabric distortion, yarn severance and
abrasive strength. There are six types of stitch, which are deeplydiscussed in this article.
Fig 1:Stitch

4. Page | 4
Some Terminology Related with Stitch:
Interlacing: During stitching when one loop of one thread passes over another loop of
anothertread is called interlacing
Fig 2:Interlacing
Interlooping :During stitching when loop of one thread passes through the loop of
another threadis called interloping.

5. Page | 5
Fig 3:Interlooping
Intralooping:When a loop one thread passes through the loop of same tread during
sewing is called intralooping.
Fig 4:Intralooping
Types ofStitch Used in Garments:
Every category of sewing machine produces a specific type of stitch depending on the
number of needles, loppers and threads which combine to construct the stitch. Each of
these configurations is known as stitch types and they are classified according to their main
characteristics There are aboutseventy (70) types ofstitch can be seen in common practice
but among them 18 to 20 types of stitch are used in garments manufacturing industries. In
tailoring purposes there are only two to three types of stitch are used. All stitches are
classed in six (6) groups which are identified by the first of the three digits.

6. Page | 6
There are different types of stitch used in garments; those are mentioned in the
following:
1. Class-100 (Chain Stitch),
2. Class-200 (Hand Stitch),
3. Class-300 (Lock Stitch),
4. Class-400 (Multi Thread Stitch),
5. Class-500 (Over Edge Stitch),
6. Class-600 (Covering Chain Stitch).
All the above types ofstitch have discussed in the below:
1. Class-100 (Chain Stitch):
Class-100 named as chain stitch, which is produced by one or more needle threads and are
characterized by interloping. In chain stitch, one needle thread is passed through the fabric,
form needle loop and is secured by the next loop formed by the same thread. It should be
noted that, chain stitch is elastic and thicker than lock stitch and can easily be raveled,
where particular care is required to preventrun back from the last stitch.
 Stitches are formed by intralooping.
 Each loop is inter connected with same thread.
 There is no lower thread.

7. Page | 7
 The needle carries the thread through the fabric and looper holds the thread to enter as
it descends forthe next stitch.
 Security of stitch is very poor,in case of breakage ofone stitch, it unravels very easily.
 One or more needle thread is used for stitch formation.
 From opposite sides it looks different.
Fig 5: Class-100 (Chain Stitch)
Application ofChain Stitch
 Temporarystitching (e.g. basting)or for blind stitching.
 Uses for button holing, button attaching, hemming
2. Class-200 (Hand Stitch):
Class-200 named as hand stitch which is produced from a single thread. This single thread
is passed through the fabric from one side to another and the stitch is secured by the single
line of thread passing in and outof the garment.

8. Page | 8
 Originally made by hand,nowcan be formed by machine.
 Looks like domestic hand stitch.
 It is produced from single thread passed from one side of the material to the other side
with each successive penetration of the needle.
 This type of stitch is formed by specialtype of needle and sewing machine.
 Needle is double pointed with Centre eyed.
Fig 6: Class-200 (Hand Stitch)
Uses Hand Stitch
 Lapelof jacket, coat and expensive clothes.
Lapel:Astripe of cloth is part of the front of the jacketor coat.
DisadvantagesHand Stitch
 Time consuming process.
 Highercost.

9. Page | 9
 Speed of sewing mc is very slow.
 Rare in use.
3.Class-300 (Lock Stitch):
Class-300 named as lock stitch which is produced with two or more groups of threads and
two threads are joined by interlacing. Here, loops of one group are passed through the
fabric and are secured by the thread of second group, where one group is referred as
needle thread and other as bobbin thread. Class-300 (Lock Stitch) has enough strength and
same appearance on both sides.
 Lock stitch requires at least two threads to form a stitch, a needle threads that feeds
from the top & a lower thread that feeds from the bobbin.
 Needle threads are passed through the fabric & are interlaced by the bobbin threads.
 A rotary hook catches the needle threads loop as it passes around the bobbin &
interlocks the two threads.
 Appearance ofthe lock stitch is similar in both sides of the fabric; it is a specialfeature.
 Fine yarn is preferable for this type of stitching.
 Stitches are secured and security of stitches can be increased by back tacking at
starting and finishing ends.
 Abrasion resistance of lock stitch is better because the stitches are embedded in the
fabric.

10. Page | 10
Fig 7:Class-300 (Lock Stitch)
Uses of Lock Stitch
 Joining of facing, collar, pocket& other parts.
 Specially for top stitching.
 Both for domestic and industrial purposes.
4.Class-400 (MultiThread Stitch):
Class-400 named as multi thread stitch which is formed with two or more groups of threads.
Here, loops of one group of thread are passed through the fabric and are secured by
interlacing and interloping with loops of another group. Among two groups, one group is
called needle thread and anothergroup is called looperthread.
 Multi-thread chain stitch requires one or more needle that form loops as they pass
through the fabric and interloop with the looperthread on the underside.

11. Page | 11
 Threads are bound tighter by interlacing & interlooping.
 It looks lock stitch at the top side & double chain atthe underside.
 Looperthread is supplied from cone.
 Need notback tacking at the starting & finishing ends.
Fig 8: Class-400 (Multi Thread Stitch)
Uses Multi Thread Chain Stitch
 Used for long length sewing, heavy fabric sewing such as denim, attaching lace, elastic.
5.Class-500 (Over Edge Stitch):
Class-500 named as over edge stitch which is formed with one or more groups of threads.
In Class-500 (Over Edge Stitch), one group of thread passes around the edge of fabric so
that no thread from the fabric can come out. The most used stitch of this type have one or

12. Page | 12
two needle threads and one or two looper threads and thus forms a narrow band ofstitching
along the edge of the fabric.
 Stitches are formed by two ormore group ofthreads.
 Formed from one or two needle threads with looperthread.
 At leastone group of threads pass around the edge ofthe material.
 Width of the fabric may vary from 3-5 mm.
 Prevents the fabric from fraying.
 They have high elasticity.
 They cannotbe unraveled easily.
Fig 9: Class-500 (Over Edge Stitch)
Uses of Over Edge Stitch

13. Page | 13
 Widely used for knit fabric.
 Used for decorative purpose.
 Joining of side seam,armhole of a shirt.
 Inseam, out-seam of a pant.
6. Class-600 (Covering Chain Stitch):
Class-600 named as covering chain stitch which is produced with three groups of threads.
Here, threads of two groups can be seen from either side. In class-600 (Covering Chain
Stitch), the first group of thread is called needle thread, second group is called top cover
thread and the third group is called bottom cover thread.
 Three or more sewing thread are used to make this stitch.
 Three group of sewing thread are used.Such as needle,looper and covering
thread
 Sewing thread consumption is very high.
 This type of stitch are used to join side by side of fabric without increasing
thickness.
 This stitch are used for sewing underwearfor attaching lace,braid, elastic etc.

14. Page | 14
Fig 10: Class-600 (Covering Chain Stitch)
Uses of Covering Chain Stitch
 Mainly used for knitted apparels.
 Attaching lace, elastic etc.
 Decorative purpose in apparels.

15. Page | 15
Fig 11:Overall stitch of a Basic Shirt

16. Page | 16
Conclusion:
All the stitches are used for producing different kind of seam.By this experimentwe have
learned aboutdifferent types of stitch and their uses.This knowledge will be helpful in our
professionallife.

17. Page | 17
References:
 http://fashion2apparel.blogspot.com/2017/04/types-stitches-used-clothing.html
 https://www.kashvidesign.com/production/various-types-stitches-used-garment-
construction/
 http://www.garmentsmerchandising.com/types-of-stitch-used-in-garments/
 http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2015/08/different-types-and-classification-of.html
 http://ordnur.com/sewing/types-stitch-used-garments-sewing/