Sewn Product machinery & equipments(1).pptx

© ATDC –T0T Academy, 2016
 Stitch is…
…a loop structure of threads.
 Stitching is…
… a series of stitches.
 Sewing…
…process of making stitching or seams.

Stitch
Lock Stitch Chain Stitch
Oscillating shuttle Rotary hook
* Domestic * Industrial
Rotary looper Oscillating looper
* Button Stitching * 2T- chain
Over lock
Cover seam

Based on US Federal Standards Stitches are classified into 6 Class(Categories)
1. Class 100 - Single thread chain stitch
2. Class 200 - Hand stitch - normally not sewing machine
3. Class 300 - Lock stitch - Hook & bobbin (SNLS Machine)
4. Class 400 - Multi thread chain stitch - Looper
5. Class 500 - Over edge and safety stitch (Overclock Machine)
6. Class 600 - Cover stitch – with top cover (Flat Lock Machine)

 This class of stitch (100) is formed by the intra looping of a needle thread
supply through or around the fabric.
 The loop of one needle thread is passed through the material from the
needle side and intra looped on the other side
Application :
 It is ideal for temporary basting; attaching buttons or press-studs , securing
product labels to garments and socks

 This class of stitch (200) is created by hand. One of more needle threads
pass through a ply or plies of fabric as a single line of thread
Application : Hand stitches are highly expensive are more common in
decorative purpose.
 The lock stitch class 300 is the most commonly used e.g. SNLS Machine
Lock stitch machine requires 2 threads to form a stitch, a needle thread that
feeds from the top and a lower thread that feeds from a bobbin.

 A rotary hook or shuttle catches the needle thread loop as it
passes around the bobbin and interlocks the two threads.
It is reversible , as the seam has the same appearance on
both sides
 It is strong (when the tension is correct, Load is equal on both
threads)
Application :
 Most common stitches 301 class used in all types of garments
SNLS (Single Needle lock stitch), Button Stitch machine
produce this class of stitches.

 Stitch Class 400 is often referred to as ‘double lock chain stitch‘
 This stitch type is formed by interloping the needle thread supply with a
separate looper thread supply on the underside of the fabric. Two thread chain
stitch - one needle thread and one looper thread.
 Higher seam strength and seam stretch than a lock stitch
Application :
Most often used to sew leg seams on jeans and trouser and inside seam of
shirts and sleeve.
Feed of Arm machine produce this class of stitches

 This class of chain stitch is formed by interloping the needle thread supply
with one or more looper threads supplied on the side and underside of the
fabric.
This stitch type is often referred to as ‘over locking' and, as the name implies,
it is formed when at least one or more threads are passed around the fabric
edge.
Application :
They are generally used to seam and neaten the cut edge of the fabric plies.
It is predominately used in the knitted garment industry for seaming, joining
and neatening the edges of cut and sew knitwear, lingerie, sportswear etc.
Over lock machine produce this class of stitches

 Covering Chain stitch utilizes between two and four needle threads but
predominantly one looper thread and one cover thread.
The cover thread lies on the top surface of the stitch line and is secured by
the needle threads. The looper threads interloop with all of the needle threads
on the underside of the stitch line.
Application :
It is used in Lingerie wear ,underwear & fashion sportswear.
Flat Lock machine produce this class of stitches

Needle/ Looper/ Spreader Configuration.
Stitch Type Needles Bobbins Loopers
Spreaders
Lock stitch 301 1 1
1T Chain stitch 101 1 1
2T Chain stitch 401 2 2
3T Over lock 504 1 2
4T Mock safety stitch 512 2 2
4T Over lock 514 2 2
5T Safety stitch 516 2 3
3T Cover seam 406 2 1
4T Cover seam 407 3 1
4T Flat Lock 602 2 1 1
5T Cover seam 605 3 1 1

SEAMS
Seam is the result of joining together two or more pieces of
fabric by means of stitching or bonding.
The British standards divide the stitched seams into eight classes ;
oClass 1 :- Super Imposed Seam
oClass 2 :- Lapped seam
oClass 3 :- Bound seam
oClass 4 :- Flat seam
oClass 5 :- Decorative seam
oClass 6 :- Edge neatening
oClass 7 :- Application of edge stitches
oClass 8 :- Seams with one piece of fabric
Classification of Seams

Class 1 : Super Imposed Seam
 This is the commonest construction seam on garments.
 This type of seam is formed by superimposing the edges of one piece of material on
another.
Application :-
Main seaming in dresses, blouses, shirts, skirts, jeans, trousers, pants, shorts,
jackets, coats, etc.
Garment containing a lining, to attach lining.
Cut and sew sweaters and knit garments
Outer edges of collars, cuffs, neckline, waistbands, and waistlines.
Attach button hole strips

Class 2 : Lapped Seam
 This type of seam is formed with two or more plies of fabric are overlapped with raw
edges exposed (for fabrics resistant to raveling) or the seam allowance is folded under
and stitched with one or more row of stitching.
Application :-
Used mainly in denim jeans, jackets etc.
Used for fabrics that will not easily ravel, e.g.. Leather, lace etc.
Side seams of shirts
Joining lace to another fabric
Joining yoke, patches, patch pocket etc.

Class 3: Bound Seam
 In this class the edge on the material is bound by another fabric.
 The material used in binds is folded on both the sides.
 A folder is normally used and the fabric is bias in many cases.
Application :-
Used mainly finishing of neck lines, sleeve hems, inside waist bands of trousers
and pants
Finishing raw edges
Setting collar and sleeve bindings on knits

Class 4 : Flat Seam
 This class is referred to as flat seams because the fabric edge doesn’t overlap.
 They are put close together and joined across by a stitch which has two needle
sewing into each fabric and covering threads passing back and front between
needles on both sides of the fabric.
Application :-
Close fitting garments where the seam allowance may put pressure on the body e.g.
swim suits
Seams in High stretch fabrics, athletic apparel, shape wear, under garments

Summary : Seams
Seam Type Uses/Application
1) Super Imposed seams Main seams in dress, blouses, shirts, lining attachment, button
hole strips
2) Lapped Seams Main seams in denim garments, leather, shirt side seams, patch
pocket
3) Bound Seams Neckline finishing, decorative seams, raw edge finishing, waist
bands
4) Flat Seams Seams in close fitting garments like swim suits, athletic apparels,
thin fabrics
5) Ornamental Stitching Designs, cording, piping, box pleats etc.
6) Edge Finishes Hemming woven & knits, blind hemming, shoulder straps etc.
7) Addition of separate
items
Attaching laces, elastic, invisible tapes, etc.
8) Specialist Seams Belt loops and straps attaching

Thread Consumption
Thread consumption could be,
1. Amount of thread present in a given garment.
2. Amount of thread consumed while making one garment
3. Amount of thread required to complete a given order quantity
Affected by,
Stitch type & Seam type
SPI ( Stitch Per Inch)
Material thickness
No. of fabric plies
Machine type - UBT
Operator efficiency

Thread Consumption Factor
Stitch class Description Total thread
usages per cm
of seam
thread Ratio
No of
needles
% of
needle
thread
%Looper/Under
(Including cover
threads)
301 L
o
c
k
s
t
i
t
c
h
Single Needle Lock Stitch 2.5 1 50 50
101 Chain stitch 4.0 1 100 0 0
401 Two thread chain stitch 5.5 1 25 75
304 Zigzag lockstitch 7.0 1 50 50
503 2 thread over edge stitch 12.0 1 55 45
504 3 thread over edge stitch 14.0 1 20 80
512 4 thread mock Safety
stitch
18.0 2 25 75
516 5 thread Safety stitch 20.0 2 20 80
406 3 thread covering stitch 18.0 2 30 70

Sewing Needle
Shank : The upper thick part of a sewing machine needle
which insert in the machine.
Shaft : It is the area from the bottom of the shank to the
point. The shaft contains the groove, scarf, eye and point of
the needle.
Groove : A groove is in the side of the needle leading to
the eye. The groove is a place for the thread to lay into the
needle.
Scarf : The scarf is a groove out of one side of the needle.
The scarf allows the bobbin case hook to intersect with the
upper thread and form stitches.
Eye :The eye of the needle carries the thread so the
machine can keep forming stitches.

Needle vs. Machines
S.no Types of Sewing Machines Needle System
1 Single Needle Lock Stitch Machines DA X 1 or DBX 1
2 Single Needle Lock Stitch Machine witch Automatic Thread Trimmer DA X 1 or DB X 1
3 Single Needle Lock Stitch Machine witch Fabric Edge Cutter DA X 1 or DB X 1
4 Double Needle Lock Stitch Machine DP X 5
5 Single Needle Lock Stitch Zigzag Machine DP X 5
6 Three Thread Over Lock Machine DC X 1 or DC X 27
7 Five thread Over Lock With Safety Stitch Machine DC X 1 or DC X27
8 Button Hole Machine DP X 5
9 Chain Stitch Button Stitch Machine TQ X 1 or TV X 7
10 Lock Stitch Button Stitch Machine DP X 17
11 Inter Lock/Flat Lock Machine UY X 128 (GAS)
12 Feed Of The Arm Machine For Denim TV X 5 or TV X 64
13 One &Two Needle Chain Stitch Machine TV X 5 or TV X 7
14 Blind Stitch Machine LW X 60
15 Kansai Special UO X 113

Hand wheel
Thread Guide
Back tack
Lever
Thread Guide
Stitch
Dial
Presser Feet
Control
Thread Spring
Tension
Thread
Tension
Disc
Take Up
lever
Throat Plate
Needle
bar
Sewing Machine & Its Parts

Feed Mechanism
Feed mechanisms is the basic motion of needles, Loopers
and bobbins, the material being sewn must move so that
each cycle of needle motion involves a different part of
the material.
This motion is known as feed mechanism
Three sewing machine parts constitute feed mechanism
1.Presser feet
2.Feed dog
3.Presser feet attachment screw

Types of Feed Mechanism
 Drop feed mechanism.
 Differential bottom feed mechanism.
Adjustable top feed mechanism.
Needle feed mechanism.
Unisom feed mechanism.
Puller feed m mechanism.

Drop Feed Mechanism
The simplest feed system of a sewing machine and also known as a regular
feed. The main components of drop feed mechanism are
1. Presser foot
2. Feed dog
3. Throat Plate
 Pressure Foot :- It holds the fabric & Controls the amount of pressure placed on
the fabric when it is fed through the machine
 Feed dog :- It structure like zigzag and has rows of teeth. It controls the motion of
fabric.
 Throat Plate :- It has a small opening in the plate allows the bobbin thread to
come out and the needle to pass through to make stitches

Differential Bottom Feed Mechanism
 It is the modification of drop feed system.
 In this feed mechanism the feed dog consists of 2
section one at back & one at front of the needle.
 Mechanism of each section of feed dog is like the drop
feed system. But the speed of each part can be adjusted
separately.
 It is used specially for stretchy materials.
Adjustable Top Feed Mechanism
In this mechanism arrangement the presser foot is in two sections.
 One holding the fabric in position while the needle form the stitch
 The other having length on the lower side & moving or waking in such a way
that the top ply is taken along, positively while needle is out of the materials

Adjustable Top Feed Mechanism
Needle Feed Mechanism
In this mechanism needle itself moves forwards &
backward. Needle penetrates the fabric enters into the
note of the feed dog.
This system is mostly used during bulky sewing
situation and used to stitch quilting or padding.
With Drop Feed System With Differential Bottom Feed
Needle feed mechanism is also known as
“Compound feed”.

Types of Industrial Sewing Machine
1)Flat Bed
2)Cylinder Bed
3)Post Bed
4)Off-the-Arm
There are four main types of Industrial Sewing Machines. The
differentiation between them is based on the design of the arm
and needle post. These four types are :

Flat Bed
The flat bed is used in the majority of sewing
where a large and open garment part can easily
be stitched or handled under the needle. It
provide suitable surface for each flat stitches and
also facilitates the use of marker to control the
position of garment parts.
e.g. SNLS Machine
This type of machine are having the feed
portion as raised from the table to enable
easy handling
e.g. Over Lock Machine
Raised Bed

Cylinder Bed
These machines feature a narrow, horizontal
column as opposed to a flat base. This allows
fabric to pass around and under the column.
The diameter of the cylinder-bed varies from 5
cm to 16 cm .
e.g. Button Hole , Button Stitch , Bar Tack Flat
Lock Machine
The least common group, these machines
require workers to feed material along
the axis of a horizontal column. It is
useful for applications such as sleeve and
shoulder seams
e.g. Feed-off-Arm Machine
Off-the-Arm

Post Bed
Post bed sewing machines have a vertical
rectangular or round post rising up from the
bed of the machine to where the needle and
presser foot meet (where the sewing occurs)
Applications
Attaching emblems in caps, boot making,
leather shoe making, glove making etc.

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