Sdc ppt 8 mar 21

www.SusTexSolutions.com
1
Apparel/Footwear Standards
&
Product Selection
Tools, Certification & Alternative Assessment
Technique

Agenda
● Apparel and Footwear Standards
● Textile Processing Standards
● Product Selection Tools/Certification
● Raw Material Standards
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Apparel & Footwear Standards (Product /Environmental)
● AA1000
● Bilan Carbone
● EU EMAS (Eco – Management and audit Schema)
● EPD (Environmental Product Declaration )
● GRITM (Global Reporting Initiative)
● ILO (International Labor Organization)
● Le Grenelle
● Messe Frankfurt Labels
● OeKo Tex Standard 100
● Product Carbon Footprint (PCF)
● Sustainable Packaging coalition (SPC)
Industry Driven Standard
● American Apparel & Footwear Association (AAFA)
● AFIRM (Apparel & Footwear International RSL
Management Working Group)
● HIGG INDEX 3.0
● ZDHC
● Leather Working Group
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Textile and leather Processing Standards
● BAT (Best available technology )
● Bra Miljöval
● Cradle to Cradle
● EU Eco label
● GOTS
● NSF /ANSI 336
● Nordic Ecolabel
● OeKo – Eco passport / STeP /Made in Green
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Product Selection – Tools & Certification
• bluesign®bluefinder
• OekoTex ®
• GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard)
Chemical Screenings/Identification of
preferred chemicals
• T-ChIP- Textile Chemicals Information
Profile
• GreenScreen®
• Substitution Support Portal (Subsport)
• KEMI PRIO
• TURI P2OASys
• iSUSTAIN TM Green Chemistry Index
• REACh
• ChemiQ ℠
• Chemsec
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● Australian BMP cotton
● BCI
● Canada Organic Regime
● Content Claim Standard
● Cotton Made in Africa
● Forest Stewardship Council (FSC)
● FTC Recycled Content
● Global Recycled Standard
● Intertek GREEN LEAF MARK
● MADE – BY
● Organic Content Standard
● JAS (0rganic Japanese agriculture
Standard)
● R Cert
● Recycled Clamed Standard
● RDS (Responsible Down Standard)
● SCS Recycled Content Standard
● The Soil Association
● Sustainable Fibre Program
● Taiwan Green Mark Program
● Traceable Down Standard (Patagonia)
● Fairtrade textile standard and program
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Raw Material Standards

AA1000 (AccountAbility)
The AA1000 Series represent a simple, practical and easy to use framework for
organizations’ to apply the Guiding Principles of AccountAbility along with robust
sustainability assurance and integrated stakeholder engagement
AA1000 Framework launched into 3 individual standards
● AA1000 Accountability Principles
● AA1000 Assurance standard
● AA1000 Stake holder Engagement
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AA1000 (AccountAbility) - Principles
● Inclusiveness - The participation of stakeholders in developing and
achieving an accountable and strategic response of sustainability
● Materiality – Its determining the relevance and significance of an issue to
an organization and stake holders
● Responsiveness – An organization response to stake holder issues that
impact its sustainability performance and is realized through decision,
action and performance, as well as communication with stakeholder
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BILAN CARBONE
● A methodology developed by the French Agency for Environment and Energy Control
(ADEME).
● Useful tool for organizations to evaluate their direct Greenhouse Gas emissions.
● Compatible with ISO 14064 , The GHG Protocol Initiative and used for directive (EU)
2003/87/EC relating to the trading of CO2 system.
Allows an analysis in three level
● Internal Emission – Only in house emission like Boiler ,AC etc.
● Intermediate Emission – Some Upstream and Down streaming like
transportation of employee and product, Production of electricity etc.
● Global Emission – Total activity (all Upstream & Down streaming) of company
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EU EMAS (Eco – Management and audit Schema)
● EMAS regulation is a management tool for companies and other organizations to evaluate, report and
improve their environmental performance and is an environmental management scheme based on EU-
Regulation 1221/2009
EMAS stands for…
● Performance: Supports organizations in finding right tools to improve their environmental performance.
● Credibility: Third party verification guarantees external and independent nature of EMAS registration
process.
● Transparency: Providing publicly available information on an organisation’s environmental performance
is an important aspect of EMAS.
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How EMAS works? - Ten steps and four key principles
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http://ec.europa.eu/environment/emas/join_emas/how_does_it_work_step0_en.htm

EPD (Environmental product declaration )
● EPD provides certified, comparable information about environmental impact of goods
and services.
● An independently verified and registered document that communicates transparent
and comparable information about the life-cycle environmental impact of products.
● The International EPD® System is a global programme for environmental
declarations based on ISO 14025 and EN 15804.
● This online database currently contains more than 700 EPDs for a wide range of
product categories by companies in 36 countries.
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GRITM (Global Reporting Initiative)
● A non-profit organization that promotes economic sustainability and produces one of
the world's most prevalent standards for sustainability reporting.
● GRI Standards are designed to be used for preparing a sustainability report.
● The initiative aims to make sustainability reporting by all organization as routine and
comparable to financial reporting .
● The GRI Framework provides metrics and methods for measuring and reporting
sustainability-related impacts and performance.
https://www.globalreporting.org/information/sustainability-reporting/Pages/default.aspx
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ILO (International Labor Organization)
● Main aims are to promote rights at work, encourage decent employment opportunities,
enhance social protection and strengthen dialogue in handling work-related issues.
● Campaigns to improve opportunities for women and men to obtain decent and productive
work in conditions of freedom, equity, security and human dignity.
● Devoted to promoting social justice and internationally recognized human and labour
rights, pursuing its founding mission that social justice is essential to universal and lasting
peace.
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Le Grenelle
● The "Grenelle" environment is an Environment Round Table in France in order to take
decisions for a long term in environmental field and for the sustainable development.
● For the first time, the Round Table brought all the civilian and public service
representatives together around a discussion table, forming 5 colleges: the State,
unions, employers, NGOs and local authorities.
● For three months, workgroups met to propose concrete action to be implemented at
national, European and international level.
● Following this debate stage, 6 round tables were organized.
● On October, 25 2007, French President presented conclusion on
this discussion
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6 Round Tables
● Theme 1. To fight against the climate change and control the energy
● Theme 2: The protection of the biodiversity and the natural resources
● Theme 3: The establishment of an environment which would match with the health
● Theme 4: The choice of different modes of production and consumption in order to
reach a more sustainable consumption
● Theme 5: Built an ecologic democracy
● Theme 6: Creation of new ways of life compatible with the competitiveness
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OEKO-TEX® Standard 100
● The Oeko-Tex® Standard 100, introduced in 1992, is a global uniform testing and
certification system for textile raw materials, intermediate products and end products
at all stages of production.
● Textile products are certified according to Oeko-Tex® Standard 100 only if all
components meet the required criteria without exception.
● The certification covers multiple human-ecological attributes, including harmful
substances which are prohibited or regulated by law, chemicals which are known to be
harmful to health, but are not officially forbidden, and parameters
which are included as a precautionary measure to safeguard health.
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OEKO-TEX® Standard 100
● A tested textile product is allocated to one of the four Oeko-Tex® product classes based on its
intended use.
● The more intensively a product comes into contact with the skin, the stricter the human
ecological requirements it must fulfill.
o Product class I: Articles for babies and toddlers up to 3 years of age (underwear, rompers, clothing, bed
linen, terry products etc.)
o Product class II: Articles that are worn close to the skin (underwear, bed linen, t-shirts, socks etc.)
o Product class III: Articles used away from the skin (jackets, coats etc.)
o Product class IV: Decoration/Furnishing materials (curtains, tablecloths, upholstery covers etc.)
● Oeko-Tex® Standard 100 is found on millions of products around the world
in (almost) all retail segments
(based on more than 65,000 certificates issued to date).
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Product Carbon Footprint (PCF)
● The PCF project, which is run by the Öko-Institut – Institute for Applied Ecology in
Germany is an attempt to harmonise international standards for the assessment and
communication of product related carbon emissions.
● The project aims to help develop carbon emission related labels that are
comprehensive, have a rating scheme, are third-party certified, and have supporting
transparent data documents.
● PCF brings together knowledge from around the world through sharing information on
national product carbon labelling experiences globally.
● In this way, the PCF project is an international platform for sharing technical
knowledge, but with a focus on companies in Germany for the pilot projects.
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Sustainable Packaging Coalition (SPC)
● The Sustainable Packaging Coalition (SPC) is an industry working group dedicated to a
more robust environmental vision for packaging.
● Launched in 2004 by GreenBlue, a non-profit sustainability institute based in US,
members of the Sustainable Packaging Coalition are provided a forum to discuss and
solutions related to the creation of more sustainable packaging systems.
● Membership has grown form nine founders in 2004 to around 200
companies as of June 2016, and includes representatives from
across the supply chain including a number of Global 100 companies.
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Industry driven Apparel and Footwear Standard
● American Apparel & Footwear Association (AAFA)
● AFIRM (Apparel & Footwear International RSL Management Working
Group)
● HIGG INDEX 3.0
● ZDHC
● Leather Working Group
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American Apparel & Footwear Association (AAFA)
● The American Apparel & Footwear Association (AAFA) is a national trade association
representing apparel, footwear and other sewn products companies, and their
suppliers.
● Developed a Restricted Substances List (RSL) through a task team and advisory panel.
● RSL purpose is to promote its members’ competiveness , productivity and profitability
in the global market by minimizing regulatory, legal, commercial, political and trade
restrain.
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AFIRM (Apparel & Footwear International RSL Management Working Group)
● AFIRM is a technical center of excellence focused
on restricted substance management in Apparel
and Footwear production.
● Primarily focused on eliminating restricted
substances from finished products and supporting
legal compliance.
● AFIRM creates industry tools and training to
support this focus.
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http://www.afirm-group.com/toolkit/

AFIRM RSL Ver 5.0 28 groups
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HIGG INDEX 3.0
A suite of sustainability assessment tools developed by the Sustainable Apparel Coalition
(SAC) to assess facility, brand and product impacts of textile production.

HIGG INDEX 3.0
FEM guides a facility site through a step-wise approach to environmental
management:
● Level 1: Foundational practices and basic awareness (e.g., measurement, awareness
and basic tracking)
● Level 2: Setting targets and making reductions (e.g., once impacts are understood,
begin taking action to improve)
● Level 3: Aspirational practices & demonstrating sustained performance (e.g., consistent
reductions for three or more years or advanced achievement of leading-edge
practices)
It is important to note that FEM is focused on performance improvement,
not compliance.
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HIGG INDEX 3.0
● By entering data about their business’ impact areas, SAC members generate
standardized performance scores that can be shared with supply chain partners on
single click
● Scores are anonymized and aggregated, allowing businesses to benchmark their results
against industry and serves as a powerful incentive to strive for greater improvements
and raise the sustainability bar.
● The Higg Index’s Brand Modules are used by apparel, footwear and textiles brands and
retailers of all sizes to measure the environmental and social and labor performance of
their design, sourcing and operations.
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HIGG INDEX 3.0
● The modules assess corporate policies and
practices in every impact area and at every
level of sustainability, from basic, compliance-
level practices to advanced and far-reaching
best practices.
● Users enter their own data and receive
performance scores broken down by category
(such as manufacturing, packaging and
transport) as well as an overall company score
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Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC)
● The ZDHC Foundation oversees implementation of the ZDHC Programme
● The ZDHC Programme includes a collaboration of 23 signatory brands, 33
value chain affiliates, and 14 associates.
● Vision is widespread implementation of sustainable chemistry and best
practices in the textile, leather and footwear industries to protect
consumers, workers and the environment
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Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC)
Chemical management module
Top 10 best practices module
Wastewater treatment
Chemical management for leather tanneries module

MRSL Ver 2.0 21 Groups; Textiles, Leather, Rubber, Foam and adhesives

● The objective is to develop/maintain a protocol that assesses the environmental
compliance and performance capabilities of leather manufacturers and promotes
sustainable environmental practices.
● The Leather Working Group is made up of representative parties from major brands,
tanners, technical experts and other industry representatives.
● The LWG Chemical Management Module (CMM) will be a voluntary additional module
when initially launched, but will ultimately be incorporated as a compulsory new
section in the next full update of the LWG Environmental Stewardship Protocol (Version
7.0). Possibly by January 2018.
● They conduct audits but donot have any certification program.
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Leather Working group

Textile and Leather Processing
Standards

Textile and leather Processing Standards
● BAT (Best available technology )
● Bra Miljöval
● Cradle to Cradle
● EU Eco label
● GOTS
● NSF /ANSI 336
● Nordic Ecolabel
● OeKo – Eco passport / STeP /Made in Green
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STANDARD Design for textile processing “throughout manufacturing

BAT (Best Available Technology for Leather)
● A reference Document for Tanning of Hides and Skins providing a review of the Best
Available Technology in the Tanning Industry across the European Community.
● This ensures the most efficient and environmentally friendly procedures are adopted.
● The report was drawn in framework of implementation of industrial Emission directive
(2010/75/EU) and is the result of exchange of information provided for in article 13 of
the directive the tanning of hides and skins .
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UNITED (leatherpanel.org)

Bra Miljöval
● The Bra Miljöval standard was developed by the Swedish Society for Nature Conservation
(SSNC) and translates as ‘Good Environmental Choice’ in English.
● It is reputed to be among the toughest of all the environmental standards with stringent
restrictions applying to raw materials and processing.
● Bra Miljöval Chemical products are characterised by:
o Products that are as harmless to the environment and humans as possible
o Requirements that are sharpened regularly, in order to always promote best available products
o Fully transparent criteria that are developed by an independent environmental NGO
● The criteria for chemical products are applicable for all types of chemical products and makes it
possible to eco-label anything from cosmetics to detergents and degreasers with Bra Miljöval.
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https://www.naturskyddsforeningen.se/sites/default/files/dokument-media/bra-miljoval-engelska/Leaflet_Bra_Miljval_Chemical_products.pdf

Cradle to Cradle ™
● The Cradle to Cradle Certified™ Product Standard guides designers and manufacturers through
a continual improvement process that looks at a product through five quality categories
1. material health,
2. material reutilization,
3. renewable energy & carbon management,
4. water stewardship, and
5. social fairness.
● A product receives an achievement level in each category — Basic, Bronze, Silver, Gold, or
Platinum — with the lowest achievement level representing the product’s overall mark
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Cradle to Cradle ™
The Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute evaluates products for certification
through a network of assessment bodies who are accredited by the Institute. Accredited
Assessors are trained and accredited to help companies achieve certification for their
products.
Around 15 assessor bodies are available across Americas and Europe.
The process is:
1. Determine if your product is appropriate for certification
2. Select an Accredited Assessment Body for the testing, analysis, and evaluation of your product
3. Work with your assessor to compile and evaluate data and documentation
4. Receive certification for your product
5. Work with Institute and your marketing teams
6. Report your progress
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EU Eco label
● Allows products of manufacturers, retailers or service providers to carry distinctive ‘Flower’ label for
marketing purposes throughout the 27 Member States of the EU.
● EU Ecolabel meets the ISO 14020 Type 1 requirements for ecolabels.
● The EU Ecolabel criteria are developed and reviewed in cooperation of experts, industry, consumer
organizations and environmental NGOs.
● EU Ecolabel criteria have been formulated for more than 30 non-food and non-medical product groups
that are reviewed every 3–5 years.
● The label applications and licenses are managed by the national competent bodies.
● The EU ecolabel for clothing , bed linen and indoor textiles is voluntary
● Eco-labelling scheme from the European Commission, encouraging the use of sustainable
practices in textile manufacturing ,including quantitative restrictions on waste water
emission and hazardous substance.
● The use of sustainable fibres is also encouraged by the label.
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NSF /ANSI 336
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● Sustainability Assessment for Commercial Furnishings Fabric principal standard used to
evaluate and certify sustainability of commercial furnishing fabrics over their entire product
life cycle.
● Addresses environmental, economic and social aspects of commercial furnishings fabric used
in public occupancy settings such as office, hospitality, healthcare and institutional interiors.
● These textiles include but are not limited to woven, non-woven, bonded, knitted, felted and
composite materials used for upholstered furniture; walls, draperies, cubicles, furniture
systems and other vertical applications; and decorative top-of-bed applications such as
bedspreads.
● The Standard also incorporates Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) criteria that measure inputs,
outputs and environmental impacts of textile products across their entire lifespan.
● NSF is accredited by the American national standard Institute (ANSI).
● A fabric total score determine certification at silver, gold or platinum level.

Nordic Ecolabel
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● The Nordic Ecolabel, otherwise known as “Swan” is the official environmental label of the
Nordic countries (Finland, Denmark and Sweden).
● It was created in 1989 by the Nordic Council of Ministers in order to provide a label
guaranteeing consumption of sustainable products and services.
● Its also meets ISO 14020 Type 1 requirements for ecolabels as seen in EU Eco label .
● Each Nordic country has a local office in charge of developing criteria, conducting audits and
granting the label.
● Products carrying Nordic Swan Ecolabel meet extremely high environmental and often
climate requirements.
● A life-cycle perspective of the product is analysed, i.e., product's impact
on the environment from raw material/source to waste.
● Criteria is also set with regard to quality, health aspects and
performance/functionality.
● Each product group has overriding general criteria requirements as
well as product-specific requirements.

OEKO-TEX® – Eco passport
● The comprehensive verification and certification system for textile chemicals,
colorants and auxiliaries.
The ECO PASSPORT by OEKO-TEX® process includes two verification stages:
o STAGE I: Chemicals are screened at the ingredient level against OEKO-TEX® Restricted
Substance Lists (RSLs) and Manufacturing Restricted Substance List (MRSL).
o STAGE II: Analytical verification in OEKO-TEX® laboratories to ensure that certified
products can be used in the sustainable production of human-ecologically optimized
textiles.

OEKO-TEX®– STeP
● An independent certification system for companies of the textile chain (brands,
manufacturers and retailers) who want to communicate their achievements regarding
sustainable production to the public.
● The objective of STeP certification is the permanent implementation of
environmentally friendly production processes, optimum health and safety and
socially acceptable working conditions.
● In contrast to other certification systems, which mostly only take into account certain
individual aspects of sustainability, STeP allows comprehensive analysis and
evaluation with regard to sustainable production conditions.
● Certification is possible for production facilities of all Textile processing stages.

OEKO-TEX®– STeP
The certification process can roughly be broken down into 7 steps:
1. Interested companies contact one of the worldwide OEKO-TEX® institutes or register in the platform.
2. OEKO-TEX® provide the company with the access data for the assessment tool.
3. The company completes an electronic questionnaire.
4. The data is analysed and evaluated by OEKO-TEX®.
5. An OEKO-TEX® auditor visits the production facility and verifies the information provided in the
electronic questionnaire.
6. OEKO-TEX® create a detailed report about the results of the audit and – if the required criteria have
been met – issue a STeP certificate to the requesting company.
7. After receiving the certificate the company is entitled to communicate its STeP certification to the
public and to use it commercially.

OEKO-TEX®– STeP
STeP certification at three different levels
● Level 1 = entry level
● Level 2 = good implementation with further
optimisation potential
● Level 3 = exemplary implementation in the
sense of a best practice example
The STeP certificate shows the following scoring
results:
● the sustainability level achieved
● an overall evaluation
● an individual evaluation of the analysed
company areas

OEKO-TEX®– Made in Green
● An independent textile label highlighting consumer products and semi-finished
products at all levels of the textile chain that are made with materials tested for
harmful substances and that have been manufactured using environmentally friendly
processes and under safe and socially responsible working conditions.
Criteria
● Any single component that equals or exceeds 5% of the total weight of the textile product
must be supplied by STeP by OEKO-TEX® certified production facilities.
● At least 85% of the weight of a single piece of textile must be supplied by STeP by OEKO-TEX®
certified production facilities.
● The general rule for the above mentioned criteria is that all the making up and wet /chemical
processing facilities have to be STeP by OEKO-TEX® certified.
● The product must be STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX® certified

Product Selection – Tools &
Certification

Product Selection – Tools & Certification
● bluesign® bluefinder
● OekoTex ®
● GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard)
Chemical Screenings/Identification of preferred chemicals
o T-ChIP- Textile Chemicals Information Profile
o GreenScreen®
o Substitution Support Portal
o KEMI PRIO
o TURI P2OASys
o iSUSTAIN TM Green Chemistry Index
o REACh
o Chem IQ
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bluesign®

bluesign®
BRANDS
● Audit of Headquarter
● Implementation
● Labelling of Products
MANUFACTURERS
● Screening of Production Sites
● Implementation
● Certification of Products
o Approval of product ranges and articles by cross check of production recipes and by spot tests
concerning potential risks
o Approved products will be listed in the bluesign® blueguide, the database used by brands and
garment manufacturers to select products manufactured in a sustainable way

Chemical Suppliers
● Audit of the Production Site
● Implementation
● Homologation of Products
● Homologation of chemical products by means of the bluesign® bluetool
● Evaluation and rating of chemical products based on their ecological and toxicological properties and
risks
● Approved chemical products published in the bluesign® bluefinder

bluesign® bluefinder
● Advanced web-based search engine for bluesign® approved chemical products
● Provides bluesign® approved chemical products for new developments or as an
alternative to existing processes
● Constantly expanding EHS know-how section
● Overview of chemical suppliers and their certified chemical products
● Updates of the latest easily comprehensible textile-relevant
EHS information for manufacturers
Source - http://www.bluesign.com/industry/bluesign-system/web-applications/bluesign-bluefinder#.VReuLvmUduo

Product Selection in bluesign® bluefinder
● Blue Product - These chemical products may be used for all applications and meet all
the criteria of the bluesign® system
● Grey Product - These chemical products may only be used in production under
certain required conditions. A potential environmental impact is associated with these
chemical products. The required conditions are described in the bluesign® bluefinder.
● Black Product - The chemical products do not meet the criteria of the bluesign® system

OekoTex ®
● The Oeko-Tex ® Standard 100 - An independent testing and certification system for textile raw materials,
intermediate and end products at all stages of production.
The tests for harmful substances cover:
o legally banned and controlled substances
o chemicals known to be harmful to the health (but not yet legally controlled)
o parameters for health protection
Laboratory tests
o Oeko-Tex® testing for harmful substances always focus on how the textile will actually be used.
o The more intensive the skin contact of a product, the stricter the human ecological requirements to
be met.

Oeko-Tex® 100 (Product Classes)
● Product class I:
Textiles and textile toys for babies and small children up to the age of three, e.g. underwear, romper suits,
bed linen, bedding, soft toys etc.
● Product class II:
Textiles which, when used as intended, have a large part of their surface in direct contact with the skin, e.g.
underwear, bed linen, terry cloth items, shirts, blouses etc.
● Product class III:
Textiles which, when used as intended, have no or only a little part of their surface in direct contact with
the skin, e.g. jackets, coats, facing materials etc.
● Product class IV:
Furnishing materials for decorative purposes such as table linen and curtains, but also textile wall and floor
coverings etc.

GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard)
● GOTS is comprised of four reputed member organisations, namely OTA (USA), IVN
(Germany), Soil Association (UK) and JOCA (Japan), which contribute to the GOTS,
● This Standard covers the processing, manufacturing, packaging, labelling, trading and
distribution of all textiles made from at least 70% certified organic natural fibres
● All chemical inputs such as dyestuffs and auxiliaries used must meet certain
environmental and toxicological criteria.
● The choice of accessories is limited in accordance with ecological aspects as well.
● A functional waste water treatment plant is mandatory for any
wet-processing unit involved and all processors must comply with
minimum social criteriar

GOTS V 6.0
Only textile goods (finished or intermediate) produced in
compliance with this Standard by a Certified Entity and certified
by an Approved Certifier (= GOTS Goods) may be sold, labelled or
represented as:
a) "organic" or "organic - in conversion“No less than 95% (≥95%) of the
fibre content of the products - excluding accessories - shall be of certified organic origin
or
b) "made with (x %) organic materials" or "made with (x %)
organic - in conversion materials“ and the GOTS logo (or the
immediate reference “Global Organic Textile Standard” or the
short form “GOTS”). No less than 70% (≥70%) of the fibre content of the
products - excluding accessories - shall be of certified organic origin

Criteria
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Requirements For Organic Fibre Production
Requirements For Fibre Material Composition
General Requirements For Chemical Inputs In All
Processing Stages
Specific Requirements And Test Parameters
Social Criteria
Employment Is Freely Chosen
Freedom Of Association & Collective Bargaining
Child Labour Shall Not Be Used
No Discrimination Is Practiced
Occupational Health And Safety (Ohs)
No Harassment And Violence
Remuneration And Assessment Of Living Wage Gap
Working Time
No Precarious Employment is Provided
Migrant Workers
Social Compliance Management
Quality Assurance System
Auditing Of Processing, Manuf. &Trading Stages
Testing Of Technical Quality Parameter & Residues
Ethical Business Behavior

Scope for certification
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Certifying bodies - GOTS
● 16 certification bodies that are currently approved to certify entities of
the textile supply chain and their products according to GOTS. CU has 3
different entities.
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Criteria partially….
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Chemical Screenings

T-ChIP - Textile Chemicals Information Profile
● It is chemical hazard- and risk-assessment program (T-ChIP) designed by textile
chemistry experts
● T-ChIP accesses toxicological data and conducts a verifiable, ingredient-level hazard
and risk assessment.
● Provides manufacturers with a concise summary of hazard/risk profile allowing them to
manage chemicals, communicate with brands and retailers, and respond to industry’s.
● Through the secure portal, manufacturers can disclose makeup of their commercial
chemical products, including a detailed list of ingredients.
● T-ChIP thoroughly evaluates hazards posed against all pertinent RSLs, SVHC lists,
international regulations, and the latest toxicological knowledge.

What are the T-ChIP Deliverables
● A "mysite" portal
● The T-ChIP Chemical Product
Information Profile (similar to VPEP)
● A hazard assessment for each ingredient
● A hazard assessment for the CCP
● A risk assessment for the CCP based on
a stated list of assumptions
● An integrated hazard and risk
assessment, or T-ChIP Ticket
Source - https://t-chipticket.com/#webinars

GreenScreen®
● GreenScreen provides a comprehensive and detailed evaluation of a
chemical’s intrinsic human health and environmental hazards, and
communicate it throughout supply chains and within organizations with
a score.
● GreenScreen is comprised of three main steps:
- assess and classify hazards,
- assign a GreenScreen BenchmarkTM score, and
- make informed decisions.
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GreenScreen® Assessment
● Assess and classify hazards
● Based on 18 hazard endpoint
● Apply the Benchmarks (example of one of certified assessor)
● https://viride.toxservices.com/GS/chemical
● Make informed decisions

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GreenScreen®- Step 1: Assess and Classify Hazards

GreenScreen®-Step 2: Assign a GreenScreen Benchmarks™
Score
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Each chemical evaluated
under GreenScreen is
assigned a Benchmark
between 1 and 4, with each
increasing Benchmark
defining progressively safer
chemicals.

GreenScreen® - example
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GreenScreen®-Step 3: Make Informed Decisions
● GreenScreen is used to support informed decision making about the use of
chemicals in products and processes. The Benchmark scores provide a
high level indicator and the Hazard Summary Table provides specific
information on relevant hazards all of which is supported by an in-depth
report.
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Source : https://viride.toxservices.com/GS/chemical

Substitution Support Portal
● SUBSPORT is a free-of-charge, multilingual platform for information exchange on
alternative substances and technologies, as well as tools and guidance for substance
evaluation and substitution management.
● The SUBSPORT web portal aims to be the first entry point for anyone interested in
substituting hazardous chemicals.
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Project management-KOOP, Hamburg
Project Partners
ChemSec, Gothenburg Grontmij A/S, Copenhagen
ISTAS, Madrid

● If CAS no or EC number of chemicals used are available then it can be screen as per
various regulation/standards.

74

Source - http://www.subsport.eu/listoflists

KEMI – PRIO
PRIO is a web-based tool - to preventively reduce risks to human health and environment
from chemicals.
PRIO allows users to:
● Create systematic work on environmental issues using the Step by Step Guide
● Obtain information on prioritised health and environmental properties
● Identify substances contained in chemically characterised substance groups and product
types
● Obtain help in developing routines for purchasing, product development, risk management
etc.
Source - http://www2.kemi.se/templates/PRIOEngframes____4144.aspx

P2OASys Tool to Compare Materials
TURI (The Toxics Use Reduction Institute) developed the Pollution Prevention
Options Assessment System (P2OASys) tool to help companies determine whether
the TUR options they are considering may have unforeseen negative
environmental, worker or public health impacts.

P2OASys TOOL

iSUSTAIN TM Green Chemistry Index
● The iSUSTAIN™ Green Chemistry Index is a tool
● provides a methodology to generate a sustainability-based
score for chemical products and processes.
● It contains a set of sustainability metrics based on the Twelve
Principles of Green Chemistry* and takes into account such
factors as waste generation, energy usage, health and
environmental impact of raw materials and products, safety of
processing steps, and others.

Working on 12 Principles of Green Chemistry
Source - https://www.isustain.com/Metric01.aspx

Source - https://echa.europa.eu/information-
on-chemicals/registered-substances

CHEM-IQ℠
● CHEM-IQ℠ is VF's innovative chemical management program.
● Provides a simple, cost-effective and scalable method for identifying and
eliminating unwanted chemistries before they enter our manufacturing
process.
● CHEM-IQ℠ was developed in partnership with the University of Leeds in
England and the University of Massachusetts Lowell in the U.S.
84

CHEM-IQ℠ - Five-Step Process
● Five-step process that provides actionable information on chemical
selection for VF and our suppliers. Here’s how it works:
1. Factories submit a chemical inventory.
2. VF’s CHEM-IQ℠ program manager determines chemicals require screening and
informs factory.
3. The factories submit a small sample of each chemical to a third-party chemical
laboratory.
4. The laboratory analyzes each submitted chemical for over 400 hazardous substances
and give rating green, yellow, orange, red.
5. Factory receives a report on all chemicals submitted and is required to phase out use
of any chemicals rated prohibited.
85

Chemsec
86
● ChemSec, the International Chemical Secretariat, is a non-profit organisation dedicated
to working towards a toxic free environment.
● ChemSec operates through support from a broad spectrum of society. A main
contributor is the Swedish Government, but ChemSec also receives financial support
from a variety of international charitable foundations as well as from other NGOs.
● ChemSec is made up of a unique, highly dedicated team of chemists, political scientists,
business experts and communicators.

Chemsec - TOOLS
87

Chemsec- Tools
● The Marketplace is a free-of-charge business to business website where
buyers and sellers of alternatives to hazardous chemicals can interact.
● The SIN (Substitute it Now!) List is a globally used database of chemicals
likely to be banned or restricted in a near future. The chemicals on the SIN
List have been identified by ChemSec as Substances of Very High Concern
(SVHC) based on the criteria establish
88

Chemsec - Tools
● The SIN Producers List is the only searchable database of companies that are
producing or importing the most hazardous chemicals in Europe and USA.
● SINimilarity shows if a substance is structurally similar to a substance on the SIN
List, which in turn indicates similar problematic properties.
● SUBSPORT is a free-of-charge, multilingual platform for information exchange on
alternative substances and technologies, as well as tools and guidance for
substance evaluation and substitution management.
89

● Australian BMP cotton
● Better Cotton Initiative
● Canada Organic Regime
● Content Claim Standard
● Cotton Made in Africa
● Forest Stewardship Council (FSC)
● FTC Recycled Content
● Global Recycled Standard
● Intertek GREEN LEAF MARK
● MADE BY
● Organic Content Standard
● JAS (Organic Japanese agriculture
Standard)
● R Cert
● Recycled Clamed Standard
● RDS (Responsible Down Standard)
● SCS Recycled Content Standard
● The Soil Association
● Sustainable Fiber Program
● Taiwan Green Mark Program
● Fairtrade Textile standard and program
91

Australian BMP cotton
● BMP is the Australian cotton industry’s best practice guidelines for growing cotton in harmony
with the environment using an audited process with fully traceable supply chains.
● A voluntary standard developed by cotton growers which covers a range of environmental
impacts of cotton growing such as land and water, soil health, biodiversity, climate change and
energy biosecurity, chemical and IPM (integrated pest management), human resources and
technology.
● MyBMP is an online self-assessment program which identifies best management practices and
standards for Australian cotton production.
● A system that allows growers to compare practices and measure improvement, confidentially.
● Aligned with internationally recognized quality assurance programs and
marketing initiatives for sustainable cotton production.
● A way to access the latest research and farm management information.
92
http://cottonaustralia.com.au/cotton-growers/mybmp

Better Cotton Initiative
● The Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) operates as a not-for-profit organization with a
holistic approach to sustainable cotton production, which covers three pillars of
sustainability: environmental, social and economic.
● System is designed to ensure the exchange of good practices, and to encourage scaling
up of collective action to establish Better Cotton as a sustainable mainstream
commodity.
● Through a cooperation with a multi-stakeholder group of organizations, together BCI
defined what a better, more sustainable way of growing cotton would look like
93
http://bettercotton.org/

Better Cotton Initiative
BCI’s production principles and criteria lay out a global definition of Better Cotton:
● Better Cotton is produced by farmers who minimize the harmful impact of crop
protection practices.
● Better Cotton is produced by farmers who use water efficiently and care for the
availability of water .
● Better Cotton is produced by farmers who care for the health of the soil.
● Better Cotton is produced by farmers who conserve natural habitats.
● Better Cotton is produced by farmers who care for and preserve the
quality of the fiber.
● Better Cotton is produced by farmers who promote ‘decent work.’
94

Canada Organic Regime
● The Canada Organic Regime is implemented by the Canada Organic
Office (COO), part of the Canadian Food Inspection Agency (CFIA).
● The framework for the COR is the Organic Products Regulations of 2009
(OPR 2009) which set out requirements for organic product labeling
and the various actors and infrastructure for implementation.
● All products which are sold in Canada labeled as organic and which
bear the Canada organic logo must have either been certified by an
accredited certification body or by one which works under a country
system which the CFIA has deemed equivalent.
95

Canada Organic Regime (Cont.)
● OPR 2009 require mandatory certification to Canada National Organic Standard for agricultural products
represented as organic in international and inter-provincial trade, or that bear Canada organic logo.
● It is required to demonstrate conformance with ISO 17065 and the relevant requirements set out in the
COO Operating Manual
The following categories of activity are recognized:
● crop production;
● livestock production;
● grain production;
● maple syrup production;
● specialized production (bee-keeping, etc.);
● food processing;
● subsequent packaging (labelling modification following an operation of breaking down or
regrouping on products already certified); and
● Brokerage.
96
http://www.ioas.org/services/organic-agriculture/canada/

Content Claim Standard
● A voluntary certification standard that can be used to trace a material through the supply chain.
● It can be used to back-up content claims for materials if other verification methods are not
available.
● It verifies the presence and amount of a given material in a final product.
● It tracks the flow of a material from the source to the final product and is certified by an
accredited third party.
● It allows for transparent, consistent and comprehensive independent evaluation and
verification of material content claims on products.
● It gives companies the means to ensure that they are selling quality
products and getting what they pay for.
● It also serves as the foundation for content claim standards that are
developed around specific raw materials.
97

Content Claim Standard
● This Standard does not cover the certification of the input material itself – that will be
verified independently of the production process certification.
● It also does not address other inputs, environmental aspects of processing (such as
energy, water or chemical use), any social issues or legal compliance Control Union is a
leading certification body, at the moment having certified the majority of all certified
facilities in more than 50 countries to e.g. OCS and GRS.
98

Cotton Made in Africa (CmiA)
● An initiative of the Aid by Trade Foundation (AbTF) that combines sustainability with
profitability for international textile companies and brands as well as African cotton farmers
since its inception in 2005.
● Also to help the socio-economic development of smallholder cotton farmers in sub-Saharan
Africa through trade and to improve social, ecological, and economic living conditions of these
agricultural communities.
● Most of the farmers qualifying under CmiA are now able to market their cotton as Better
Cotton or Cotton made in Africa, depending on the demand in the market.
● This gives increased flexibility to farmers whilst avoiding additional cost structures.
● The CmisA standards are composed of
o Cotton made in Africa (CmiA) and
o Cotton made in Africa-Organic (CmiA-Organic) standard.
99
http://bettercotton.org/about-better-cotton/where-is-better-cotton-grown/cotton-made-in-africa-cmia/

Forest Stewardship Council
● The Forest Stewardship Council is an independent, non-governmental, not-for-profit
organization established to promote responsible management of the world’s forests.
● An open, membership-led organization that sets standards under which forests and
companies are certified.
● Membership consists of three equally weighted chambers -- environmental, economic,
and social -- to ensure the balance and the highest level of integrity.
● Deforestation and forest destruction is the second leading cause of
carbon pollution, causing 20% of total greenhouse gas emissions.
100

Forest Stewardship Council (Cont.)
● A forum where the global consensus and through democratic process effects solution
to the pressure facing the world’s forests and forest-dependent communities.
● The FSC principles and criteria were first published in 1994.
● They were amended in 1996,1999 and 2001.
● A comprehensive review commenced in 2009,which resulted in
major revisions to the wording –although not the substance –
of the principles and criteria being proposed in 2011.
101

Federal Trade Commission (FTC) Recycled Content
● FTC’s guidelines are intended to help reduce consumer confusion and prevent false or
misleading use of environment terms in advertising and labelling of products in
marketplace.
● “Recycled content “includes products and packages which contain materials that are:
o reused
o reconditioned or
o remanufactured
102

Global Recycled Standard
● A product standard for tracking and verifying content of recycled materials in a final
product, while ensuring strict production requirements.
● An international, voluntary, full product standard that sets requirements for third-party
certification of recycled content, chain of custody, social and environmental practices,
and chemical restrictions.
● It aims to be a full-product standard for recycled material content that
balances rigor and practicality for the industry and end consumers.
● Originally developed by Control Union Certifications in 2008 and
ownership was passed to the Textile Exchange (TE) on 1 January 2011.
103
http://textileexchange.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/Global-Recycled-Standard-v3.pdf

Intertek Green Leaf
● Run by international testing and certification house Intertek and
examine the chemical aspects of raw materials and recycled content
through a rigorous testing protocol.
● It is proof that a product has been independently tested and found to
conform to multiple existing environmental regulations, such as RoHS
laws, REACH and Eco Design requirements through one mark rather than
multiple marks.
● The Green Leaf Mark is used on product packaging, in point of purchase
displays, product advertising and literature to explain a product’s
environmental credentials.
104
http://www.intertek.com/marks/green-leaf/

MADE-BY
● MADE-BY is a European not-for-profit organization
● Founded in 2004 with a multi–stakeholder board
● Aim is to improve environmental and social standards within the fashion industry.
● Participation in its 'blue button' standard is voluntary and can be in the form of a
partnership or on a project basis.
● Work with well over 100 brands and retailers including Acne, Eileen Fisher, H&M, Hugo
Boss, Kering Group, LVMH Group, Ted Baker, Tommy Hilfiger and G-Star.
● Also work with key stakeholder groups and fashion brands and retailers of
all sizes on bespoke, impactful sustainability programmes.
105
http://www.made-by.org/

MADE-BY
Level 1 : Evaluates a brand’s basic engagement including setting a strategy and creating a
baseline.
Level 2 : Examines how brand puts their level 1 commitments into action. This include
setting targets, investing in capabilities ,and collaboration with the broader
industry.
Level 3 : Evaluates adoption of best practice, often in area beyond the brands immediate
control, eg supplier capability building and consumer engagement.
Pioneer : Brands that demonstrate outstanding industry leadership receive
special commendation indicated by a flag icon.
106

The Organic Content Standard
● A standard for tracking and verifying the content of organically grown materials in a
final product.
● The Organic Content Standard 2.0 was released 1 January 2016.Certification bodies and
certified organizations have until 1 January 2017 to comply with the new requirements.
● The OCS relies on third-party verification to verify a final product contains the accurate
amount of a given organically grown material.
107
● OCS 100 logo is used for only for product
that contains 95% or more organic material
● OCS blended is used for products that contain
5% minimum of organic material blended
with conventional or synthetic raw materials.

JAS (Organic Japanese agriculture Standard)
● The production and processing of organic textiles sold on the Japanese market is regulated in
the Japanese Agriculture Standard (JAS).
● These certified goods are identified with the official JAS organic seal of the Japanese
government.
● The JAS originally covered only horticultural products such as fruits, vegetables, livestock feed
and processed products of horticultural origin.
● Since the food inputs differ greatly from the textile industry, as do the processing requirements,
its unlikely that any textile solid in Japan would ever be able to carry the JAS organic logo.
● Production of organic textile fibre must meet agricultural requirements of JAS and be
accredited by international certifiers such as IMO which are register by MAFF
(Japanese Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries), who may inspect
and certify produce which is destined for export to Japan.
108

R Cert
● A consumer-facing educational standard for recycled textile clothing that guarantees
that brands recycled their own factory textile waste into their own recycled textile
clothing.
● Ensures that brands used a minimum of 20 % recycled fibers.
● Redress works with brands seeking R cert to establish their supply chains and to
identify their sources of textile waste.
● Checks brand’s supply chain via a series of self-declaration forms and
documentation to confirm brand’s chain of custody of the textile waste
and recycled textile garments.
● Encourages brands to use factories that have a Global Recycle
109

Recycled Claim Standard
● A chain of custody standard to track recycled raw materials through the supply chain to
give credibility to recycled content claims on products.
In 2016, Textile Exchange launched a revision of the RCS and global Recycled Standard.
The updated standard is expected to be released in 2017.
● The RCS uses the chain-of-custody requirements of the content claim standard.
● The RCS applies to products that contain 5% – 100 % recycled material and verifies the
presence and amount of recycled material in a final product through input chain of custody
verification from 3rd party.
● Textile Exchange notes the RCS is considered a stepping stone standard of
Global Recycled Standard.
110

Responsible Down Standard
● This standard focuses on compliance with local legal animal welfare regulations and
aims to ensure that Responsible Down Standard down does not come from farms that
engage in force-feeding or live plucking.
● The down process is evaluated from the farm, including collector-based farms, through
to the assemblers producing the final product.
● Developed by the North Face, in partnership with certifier control union, this standard
responds to consumer concerns about the plucking of down feathers from live geese in
China. The North Face then gifted the Responsible Down standard to textile exchange
and its chain of custody is now backed up by TE’s own Content Claim Standard.
111

SCS Recycled Content Standard
It demonstrates your commitment to conserving natural resources, helps you meet
customer specifications, can qualify your products for LEED and environmentally
preferable purchasing (EPP) programs, and supports your sustainability goals.
Recycled Content Standard certification helps companies:
✓ Demonstrate leadership in reducing reliance on natural resources
✓ Satisfy purchase requirements and customer specifications
✓ Meet regulatory requirements
✓ Meet consumer demand
✓ Differentiate products
● Manufacturers of carpet, textiles, building products, wood and paper products,
insulation, clothing, jewelry, and more seek this trusted certification label.
112

The Soil Association
● The Soil Association organic standard for textiles is another label which has adopted
the GOTS criteria.
● It has a very high degree of consumer recognition in the UK market where 95 per cent
of its organic textile certificates are issued.
● The Soil Association, a registered charity, is the UK’s leading organic organization and
provides a certification and inspection service.
● The Soil Association symbol can be found on over 70 per cent of Britain's organic
produce.
● Soil Association Certification ltd (SACL) enforces standards through
certification and regular inspections of producers, processors and suppliers.
113

Sustainable Fiber Program
● The Sustainable Fiber Program, owned by the Control Union
● It includes best practices, lists of approved chemicals and their
recommended dosages, social criteria and training.
The standard has an emphasis on sustainable productivity, and also considers
the chain of custody, from fibre to retail, by using traceability software and
features fibre quality parameters – making contamination with non-
sustainable fibres more easily identifiable by laboratory analysis
114

Taiwan Green Mark
Voluntary eco-labelling program by Taiwan’s Environmental Protection
Administration (latest revision in December 2013)
● The program has issued Green Mark eco-label certificates to around 112
product categories, including
➢ cleaning products,
➢ office supplies and equipment,
➢ energy/water-saving products,
➢ home appliances information technology products, and
➢ construction materials.
115

Taiwan Green Mark
● Green mark products are designated as the top priority
products for government agencies and all publicly –owned
enterprises, schools, or hospitals to choose from.
● TEPA has expanded its promotion of green purchasing to
the private sector.
● The Taiwan Green purchasing Alliance (TGPA) encourages
private companies to practice green purchasing.
116

Fairtrade Textile standard and Textile Program
● The Fairtrade Textile Standard is one component of the greater Fairtrade Textile
Programme.
● It engages manufacturers and workers in the supply chain to bring about better wages
and working conditions, and engages brands to commit to fair terms of trade.
Tthe most commonly identified weaknesses in the social compliance audit model for the textile
industry. These include:
● improving the competencies of auditors, including identification of fraud,
● strengthening the participation of workers in the process,
● identifying the root cause of non-compliances so these can be addressed, especially when they are related to
the buying practices of brand owners,
● maintaining a high level of scrutiny in terms of audit frequency and duration, including unannounced audits,
● increased transparency along the process
117

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Sdc ppt 8 mar 21

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