The document details the various types of extracts used in fragrances and flavors, including essential oils, pomades, concretes, absolutes, resinoids, oleoresins, and tinctures, along with their methods of preparation and key components. It highlights the extraction techniques such as steam distillation and enfleurage, and outlines the therapeutic uses and physiological effects of essential oils derived from various plants. Additionally, it provides a comprehensive list of essential oil plants, their methods of preparation, and the main components found in each oil.

1. FLAVORS AND
FRAGRANCES
Chapter 7.2

2. Extracts
• According to the method of preparation, the extracts of
fragrance & flavor substances obtained from plants can
be classified as essential oils, pomades, concretes,
absolutes, resinoids, oleoresins and tinctures
• Of these extracts only essential oils, absolutes and
tincture are used directly to formulate perfumes

3. Steam distillation unit

4. Essential Oil
• Essential oil:
Fragrant materials that have been extracted from a source
material directly through distillation or expression and
obtained in the form of an oily liquid. Oils extracted
through expression are sometimes called expression oils.

5. Essential oils
Raw materials : various parts of plants
• Production : essential oils are obtained from plant materials by distillation. After condensation the oil separate
from the aqueous phase is removed. The yield ranges from point 1 % to a few %
• Essential oil consists of volatile compounds which are mainly hydrocarbons or mono functional compounds
• Essential oils do not leave a grease stain
• Individual compound can be isolated from essential oil containing 1 or few major components
• Essential oil can be converted as a whole into derivatives

6. Pomades
• Fats that contains fragrances
substances which are produced by
hot or cold enfleurage of flowers.
• Hot enfleurage - in this method
flowers or other parts of a plant
are directly immersed in liquid or
molten wax
• Cold enfleurage – the volatile
components are released by the
flowers into surrounding are
absorbed with fat over along
period of time
• This method is to produce high
grade flower concentrate

7. Concretes
• These are prepared by
extracting fresh plant
materials with non polar
solvents which are then
evaporated.
• Concretes contains not only
volatile fragrance materials,
but also a large proportion of
not volatile substances and
are therefore not completely
soluble in alcohol.

8. Absolutes
• These are prepared by mixing concrete with ethanol followed by
cooling.
• The precipitated formed are removed and then ethanol is
evaporated to produce an absolute.
• Absolutes are complete to soluble in ethanol
• The yield is about 50% of the concrete use.

9. Resinoids
• These are prepared by
extracting plant exudates
with solvent such as ethanol,
methanol or toluene.
• The yield range from 50% to
95% with the product highly
viscous.
• Resinoids consist of non
volatile compounds
• Uses : as fixative

10. Tinctures and Oleoresins
• Alcoholic solutions which are prepared
by treating plant materials with ethanol
or ethanol water mixtures.
• Tinctures also called infusions
• Oleoresins : these are concentrates
prepared from spices ( e.g. pepper,
ginger and vanilla) by solvent extraction
• Pepper and ginger oleoresins contain
not only volatile aroma compounds but
also substances responsible for
pungency.
• Very often oleoresins are obtained by
extraction with carbon dioxide

11. Banned Essential Oils
Oil Action Oil Action
Cade Oil
Crude
Carcinoge
nic
Styrex
Gum
Sensitizer
Calamus Carcinoge
nic
Verbena
Oil
Sensitizer
Sassafras Carcinoge
nic
Tea
Absolute
Sensitizer
Costus
Root
Sensitizer Peru
Balsam
Sensitizer
Elecampa
ne
Sensitizer Horseradi
sh Oil
Toxic and
Iritant
Fig Leaf
Absolute
Sensitizer Mustard
Oil
Toxic and
Iritant

12. Therapeutic Uses of Ess. Oils
Oil Action
Basil Depression, headache and migraine
Bergamot Skin Stress
Black Pepper Muscular ache and pains
Citronella Insect repellant
Clove Antispasmodic, antiseptic
Lavender To calm and relax , to soothe headache
and migraine
Jasmin, Rose, Sandalwood, Ylang-ylang Aphrodisiacs
Tea Tree, Eucalyptus, Sandalwood &
Thyme
Antiseptic, antimicrobial and disinfectant
Yarrow Joint inflammation

13. Physiological Effects of Ess. Oils
Oil Action
Bergamot Lack of confidence and courage, depression, wory,
nervous tension, anxiety and grief
Benzoin Nervous anxiety, depression, worry, grief and loneliness
Cypress Bereavement, confusion, regret, emotional instability,
impatience, mood swing, sorrow , irritability and
withdrawal
Eucalyptus Bitterness, Guilt, loneliness, moodiness and resentment
Peppermint Depression and mental fatigue
Geranium Anxiety, confusion, depression, mental lethargy,
moodiness, sadness and tearfullness

14. Essential oil
Essential oil Plants Method of prep Main component
Garlic oil Garlic bulb Steam distillation Diallyl disulfide
Onion oil Onion bulb Steam distillation Cis and trans-propenyl
propyl disulfide
Ambrette seed oil Abelmoschus
moschatus seed
Steam distillation 5-tetradicen-14-
olide,farnesol and
farnesyl acetate very
expensive e.oil
Amyris oil ( mild
wood odor)
Amyris balsamifera
wood
Steam distillation Sesquiterpenoids, used as
fixative
Angelica oil (
green herbasious
pepperymusklike
odor)
Angelica arc
angelica
Steam distillation of
root or seed
Sesquiterpenoids and
terpenenoids

15. Anise oil (sweet
odor of anethole)
Pimpinella
anisum
Steam distillation Transanethole,used for
flavoring food, beverages
and oral hygene product
Artemisia oil (
light herbacius
odor)
Artemisia asso Steam distillation ketone camphor and
thujone, used in fine
fragrance
Basil oil Basil Steam distillation of
ocimum bacilicum to
produce reunian basil oil
and steam distillation of
european basil species to
produce european basil
oil
Estragole in reunion basil
oil ( > 80%).Linalool (35%-
50%) and estragole ( 15%
– 25%)
Bay Oil Pimenta race
mosa leaves (
strong spicy
clove like
odor)
Steam distillation Eugenol,chavicol,myrcene
used for perfuming after
shave lotion
Benzoe Sumatra
resinoids (sweet
balsamic odor)
Styrax
benzoin
dryand
Solvent extraction Vanillin, benzoic &
cinnamic acids

16. Essential oil Plants Method of prep Main component
Bitter almond oil (
Prunus
Steam distillation Benzaldehyde
almond like cherry
amygdalus seed
aroma)
Blackcurrant absolute Blackcurrant Solvent extraction
from the bud
4-methoxy2-
methyl-
2butenethiol
Buchu leaf oil ( minty
fruit odor )
Barosma betulina Steam distillation of
leaf
p-menthane-8-
thiol-3-one used in
the colonge
Calamus oil ( spicy
aromatic odor)
Acorus calamus Steam distillation of
roots
b-asarone
Camphor oil / eucaliptus
oil
Cinnamomum
camphora
Steam distillation of
the wood
ciniole
Caraway oil ( mild spicy
caraway odor)
Carvum carvi Steam distillation of
seed
Lemonene &
cavone,used for
flavoring food &
alcohol beverages

17. Cardamon oil (strong
aromatic camphoraceus
odor)
Elettaria
cardamomum
Steam distillation
of the seed
1,8-ciniole and
terpenyl acetate
used for flavoring
food
Carrot seed oil (pleasant
aromatic odor)
Daucus carrota Steam distillatin of
seed
Carrotol, used as
food flavor and in
alcoholic beverages
Atlascedar oil (sweet
woody aromatic odor)
Cedrus atlantica Steam distillation of
wood
atlantone

18. Essential oil Plants Method of prep Main component
Celery seed oil ( spicy
odor)
celery Steam distillation of
seed
Limonene &
selinene used for
flavoring food
Chamomile oil ( Bitter
aromatic taste)
Chamomilla recucita Steam distillation of
the flower and
stocks
Chamazulene and
bisabobol
Cinnamon leaf oil
(spicy odor )
cinnamon Steam distillation of
leaf
Eugenol
cinnamon bug oil
(spicy taste of
cinnamon)
Cinnamon Steam distillation of
bug
cinnamaldehyde
ceylon citronella oil
(grassy odor)
cimbopogonnardus Steam distillation of
leaf and stem
citronelal

19. Java citronella oil (
sweet flavory rose
like odor)
cimbopogon winter
ianus
Steam distillation of
leaf & stem
Citronelal,
citronelol, geraniol
Citrus oil :bergamot
oil (sweet fruity odor)
Citrus aurantium Pressing pill from
fruit
Linalool,citral &
linalil acetate
Great fruit oil( sweet
orange oil)
Citrus paradisy Cold pressing pills of
the fruit
Limonene octanal &
decanal
lemon oil ( lemon
pear odor)
Citrus lemonspicy
taste of cinnamon
Pressing pills of the
fruit
Limonene b-pinene
& terpenene, used
in colonge

20. Essential oil Plants Method of prep Main component
Lime oil Citrus orantifolia Cold pressing Ciniole,citral
Mandarin oil Mandarin orange Cold pressing of the
pills
Lemonene &
terpenene
Orange oil bitter Citrus aurantium Cold pressing of the
pills
Various aldehydes
Orange oil sweet Citrus sinensis Cold pressing of the
pills
Lemonene and
decanal
Clove bud oil Clove tree Steam distillation of
bud
Eugenol
,caryophylene,
eugenol acetate
Clove leaf oil Clove tree Steam distillation of
leaf
Eugenol acetate

21. Corriander oil Coriandrum
satifum
Steam distillation of
fruit
Linalool & fatty
aldehyde
cypress oil( wood
like odor)
Cupressus
sempervirens
Steam distillation of
france
3-carene and a-pynene
Dill oil Anetum
graveolens
Steam distillation Lymonene &
carphonene

22. Essential oil Plants Method of prep Main component
Fennel oil Common fennel Steam distillation of
seed
Trans-anethole, used
in flavor and
perfumery
Galbanum oil Ferula galbaniflua Steam distillation of
root
Monoterpene &
sesquiterpene,used in
perfume
Geranium oil Pelargonium
graveolens
Steam distillation Citronellol,
isomenthone &
formate
Ginger oil Zingiber oficynale Steam distillation of
the root
Zingiberene &
sesquiphelandrene
Ginger oleoresin Zingiber oficynale Extracting with
alcohol or acetone
Gingerole & shogaol
Guaiacwood oil Bulnesia sarminty Steam distillation of
showdas
Guaiol &
bulnesol,used in
perfumery

23. Jasmine absolute Jasminum
grandyflorum
Solvent extraction
of the flowers
Benzyl acetate,
indole, cis-jasmone
& methyl
jasmonate
Juniper berry oil Juniperus comunis Steam distillation of
fruit
1-terpynen-4-ol,a-pynen-monoterpene,
used
in alcoholic
beverages
Labdanum oil Sistus ladaniferus Steam distillation of
the gum
Monoterpene, used
widely in perfumery
Laurer leaf oil Laurus nobilis Steam distillation of
leaf
1,8ciniole,eugenol,li
nalool, used for
seasoning meat
product & soup

24. Essential oil Plants Method of prep Main component
Lavender oil Lavandula anggus
tyfolia
Steam distillation of
flowering top
Cis & transocimene,
ciniole, linalool,
linalil acetate,
lavadulil acetate &
camphor
Litseacubeba oil litseacubeba Steam distillation of
fruit
Citral, used for
perfuming
household product
Lovage oil Levisticum oficinale Steam distillation of
fruit & leaf
Terpynel acetate &
ligustilide, used for
flavoring to tobacco
Marjoram oil Origanum majorana Steam distillation of
hert
1-terpynen-4ol &
cis-sarbinene
hydrate, used in
men perfume
Corn mint oil Menta alvensis Steam distillation of
hert
Menthyl acetate,
menthol, menthone

25. Peppermint oil Menta pepperita Steam distillation of
hert
Menthol,
menthone, menthyl
acetate &
menthofuran
Spearmint oil Menta spicarta Steam distillation of
hert
Menthone,
lymonene,
dehydrocarfone,
sarbinenehydrade,
dehydrocarfil
acetate & carfil
acetate
Mentacitrata oil mentacitrata Steam distillation of
her
Linalool & linalil
acetate, used in
perfuming soup
Pennyroyal oil Menta pulegium Steam distillation of
flowering top
Pulegone, used for
soup & oral product
Myrrh oil Commiphora myrrh Steam distrillation lindestrene

26. Essential oil Plants Method of prep Main component
Neroli oil Citrus aorantium Steam distillation of
the blossom
Terpenehydrocarbon
, used in fine
fragrances
Nutmeg oil nutmeg Steam distillation of
the kernel
Terpinene
hydrocarbon, 1-
terpene-4-ol, used
for food flavoring
Oak moss absolute Evernia prunastree Solvent extraction Orchinol, methyl3-
methyl orselinate,
used in perfumery
Olibanum oil Boswellia cartery Steam distillation Used for perfume
Orris root oil irishfallida Steam distillation of
the root
Cis alpha irone & cis
gamma irone, very
expensive oil, used in
perfumery & flavor

27. Patchuoli oil Phogostemon cablin Steam distillation of
leaf
Patchualol nor
patchulenol
Pepper oil Black pepper Steam distillation of
fruit
Monoterpene hydro
carbon, sarbinene &
pepperine
Peru balsam oil Meroxylon pereira Steam distillation Benzyl benzoate,
benzylcinamate,
nerollidol & vanillin,
used in perfume &
soup
Petite graine oil Citrus tree Steam distillation of
leaves
Linalool, linalyl
acetate
Parsley oil Petroselinum
crispum
Steam distillation Mono terpene
hydrocarbon,
myristicin,apiol,
used in food
seasoning

28. Essential oil Plants Method of prep Main component
Pimento oil Pimenta dioica Steam distillation of
fruit
1,8ciniole, eugenol &
caryophylene, used
mainly in food industry
Rose oil Rosa ex damassina Steam distillation of
blossom
Citronelo, geraniol, nerol,
phenethyl alcohol
Rosemary oil rosemarinusoficinali
s
Steam distillation of
twigs
1,8ciniole,
gammaphinene and
camphor, used in
perfuming shampo
bathfoam & hairtonic
Rosewood oil Aniba rosae odora Steam distillation of
wood
Linalool acetate, used in
perfume for soap
Clarysage oil Salvia sclarea Steam distillation of
flowering top
Linalil acetate. Linalol,
terpene alcohol, terpene
acetate

29. Sandal wood oil Santalum album Steam distillation of
wood
Alpha & beta
santalol very
valuable use in
perfumery
Safrass oil Ocotea pretiosa Steam distillation of
fruit, branches and
trunk
safrole
Savory oil Satureja hortensis Steam distillation of
the hert
Carvacrole, used for
flavoring sausages
and soups
Stranise oil Illiciumverum hook Steam distillation of
fruit
Trans anithole, used
for flavoring food &
toothpaste
Tagetes oil Tagetes minuta Steam distillation of
flowering plants
Cis ocimene, cis &
trans ocimenone &
tagetone
&dihydrotagetone,
used in flowery
fragances

30. Essential oil Plants Method of prep Main component
Tarragon oil Artemisia
drakunculus
Steam distillation for
leaves ,stems &
flowers
Estragole, used in
perfumery
Tea tree oil Melaleuca
alternifolia
steam distillation of
leaves and twigs
1-terpynen-4-ol, used
in perfumery for
earthy notes
Thyme oil Thymus fulgaris Steam distillation of
flowering plants
Thymol & carfacrol,
used in perfumery for
spicy leathery notes
Tolu balsam resinoid Myroxylon
balsamum
Solvent extraction Benzyl & cinnamyl
esters of benzoic and
cinnamic acid, used in
perfumery of balsamic
note
Tonkabean absolute Dipteryx odorata Solvent extraction of
tonkabean
Coumarin, used in men
fragrances