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Materiality: Electronic Textiles and Smart Garments
1
Per t
Greetings
Barbara Trippeer
Adjunct Lecturer, Fashion Department,
College of Visual Arts and Design,
University of North Texas
2
Materials:
SMARTgarments &
e-textiles
3
4
Technological Advancement
The Science of Clothing
5
Smart Textiles
What are smart textiles?
6
Smart Textiles
Definition and Applications
Embedded Circuits Conductive Fibers Strategic Sensors Communication Devices
CuteCircuit Graphene Heddoko
7
Smart Clothing
Categories and Applications
Military/Industrial Health/Wellness InfotainmentMedical
Geopositioning
Environment
Activity
Functional Garments Fashion and EntertainmentActivity Monitoring Measuring Vital Signs
Activity Monitors
Temperature
Fitness & Heart Rate Monitors
Communication Devices
Light Sensor Displays
Emotional Connections
Blood Pressure Monitors
Heart Rate
Blood Pressure
Respiration
Body Temperature
EMBEDDED
SENSORS
STRATEGIC
http://www.heddoko.com/ergonomics/
http://www.hexoskin.com/
Smart
Garments
BIOMEDICAL
Applications
http://hankypancreas.com/
11
Smart Garments
Connected Apparel
Medical TeamCaregiving Team
Patient
12
CONNECTED GARMENTS
COMMUNICATION TOOLS AND APPLICATIONS
Physician
Patient
Caregiver
Coach/Teacher
http://www.mytjacket.com/
Seamless
Integration
http://paulinevandongen.nl/news/vigour/
Adaptive
Phase Change
Materials
http://www.uniqlo.com/lab/heattech/us/
Responsive
Physiological
https://halleyprofita.wordpress.com/projects/
LightWear
THANK YOU
FOR YOUR
TIME and
ATTENTION
Sources
Bibliography
Dunne, Lucy E., and Susan M. Watkins. "Introduction." In Functional Clothing Design: From Sportswear to Spacesuits, by Lucy E. Dunne and Susan M.
Watkins, xiv-xv. New York, NY: Fairchild Books, 2015.
Raskin, Jef. The Human Interface: New Directions for Designing Interactive Systems. Addison Wesley, 2000.
Raudsepp, E. "Profile of the Creative Individual: Part 1." Creative Computing 9, no. 8 (August 1983): 170-179.
Redbourn, E., and W. Rees. Materials and Clothing in Health and Disease. London: H.K. Lewis and Co., 1972.
Roggen, D.; Magnenat, S.; Waibel, M.; Troster, G. “Wearable Computing: Designing and Sharing Activity-Recognition Systems Across Platforms”.
IEEE Robotics & Automation Magazine, June 2011, 83-95.
Rogers, Yvonne. "Icons at the Interface: Their Usefulness." Interacting with Computers 1: 105-118.

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Materiality: Smart Garments and Electronic Textiles

Editor's Notes

  1. Apparel Evolution : Designing technology for the wearable environment The marriage between clothing and electronic technology is not always a seamless junction.  Such projects often involve the blending of four distinct disciplines: textiles, clothing design, electronics, and information systems.  
  2. Clothing can act as either a barrier between the body and its environment, as well as mediate interactions, or increase the wearer’s ability to function.   Clothing is a “portable environment”: it is both attached to or supported by the body, as well as moving with the body.   A garment can be an ideal place to embed a health monitoring sensor system, because of its innate intimacy with the user given its place in their social construction of identity. Because clothing is constantly present and held close to the physical body, it is useful platform for sensing and monitoring the movements, activities, and context of the human body.   Integrating sensing technology into clothing opens a window into the needs and objectives of the human inside, as well as the surrounding context and environment in which humans find themselves.   Clothing is an effective platform for communicating information to the wearer because it is easy for actuators in clothing to be placed close to many different sensory receptors and for the user to quickly and easily access interfaces.   Information processing and delivery devices can become more seamless extensions of the wearer’s body and brain when they are in wearable form. The following images represent some of the inspirations that informed preliminary research for this thesis project emerging from the wearable technology market.
  3. Some forms of wearable technology are described as smart clothing, using the qualifier clothing to distinguish garments from other worn accessories like bracelets or adhesive patches. Technology describes as smart has the capability to sense something and respond appropriately without being directly controlled by a human. However, colloquially the term smart is often interchangeably used with high-tech. Smart Clothing and Wearable Technology The term wearable technology encompasses a broad variety of interpretations and definitions.  Basically, it refers to technology that is worn on the body.   In theory, this could include any technology including the fibers and fabrics that are used in most clothing, but in practice it generally refers to electronic technology. Responsive fabrics are those that change in some way when activated by a human or in response to a change in the environment. These fabrics are often called smart.   They respond to conditions such as change in ambient temperature, or exposure to radiation, a specific chemical, or an electric current.   Electronically activated smart materials, on the other hand, can be “turned-on” either by the flip of a switch or through a more complex system of sensors and programmed responses.   Smart materials with an inherent material responses often have a narrower set of capabilities than electrically activated smart materials, but they have the advantage of not needed a power source, electronics or wiring.   Smart Clothing Some forms of wearable technology are described as smart clothing, using the qualifier clothing to distinguish garments from other worn accessories like bracelets or adhesive patches.   Technology describes as smart has the capability to sense something and respond appropriately without being directly controlled by a human. However, colloquially the term smart is often interchangeably used with high-tech. Wearable computing Finally, some wearable technologies are described as wearable computers. Wearable computers typically perform functions similar to desktop or mobile computers, with a focus on information access and communication.  
  4. Electronic Textile Materials E-textiles, or electronic textiles, are material that contain electrical circuits or make connections between electrical circuits. Most current E-textile material connects to standard PCB’s (printed circuit board) and component packages to textiles in some way.   However, many of the components (e.g., sensors, actuators, processors) described earlier and other electronic components (e.g., solar cells or batteries) can also be made in the form of a fiber.   Components made in the form of fibers can be then be woven or knitted into textile structures, or stitched/applied to the surface of a textile garment.   E-textile materials generally fall into one of two categories: materials that act as conductors, connecting parts of a circuit, or materials that actually contain components of a circuit such as power sources, sensors, processors, or actuators.   In smart clothing, components of a circuit many need to be distributed over the surface of the body but powered by a central power source.     Garment and Textile Integration of Sensors and Electronic Components One of the most evident difference between the fields of apparel and electronic systems is in the physical properties: Apparel prioritizes the physical comfort of fabrics and garments, often-emphasizing softness, breathability, and conforming to the body. Electronic systems prioritize stabilizing rigidity, impermeability, and flat surfaces. Electronic components have been around for much longer than smart clothing has, and the standards and conventions of electronic parts were designed for rigid devices, not for integration into textiles. For the designer, it is important to understand the conventions of electronic components and the ways in which circuits can be formed in textile structures. While some forms of WT can be condensed into a single unit and located in a comfortable accessory such as an armband common to electronic devices, body sensors often need to be distributes around the bod to effectively detect signals where they occur. For example, and ECG electrode may need to be placed near the heart, or a motion sensor detecting hand position may need to be worn on the hand. This often means that all of the components of a system that involves body sensors (the sensors, as well as the central processor, battery, and other components) cannot be located in one spot. Further sensors commonly need to be connected electrically to a central processor in order to send signals to the system. These electrical connections can make it challenging to design wearable sensing systems that are as comfortable and wearable as traditional textiles. Some sensors, such as the stretch sensors discussed earlier in this chapter, can be created using traditional textile and apparel processes, and connected via conductive stitching or woven conductors to a processing unit. Other sensors components, like accelerometers, are commonly available in the standard packages that have been developed for use in traditional electronic devices. These often differ by size and by the shape and arrangements of their leads, or points of electrical connection. Radial leads are arranged around the edge of the component body, usually one on either side. In-line packages have leads that are designed to be soldered through holes in a rigid circuit board. Even through axial and radial components are also soldered through holes in a circuit board, in-line packages have leads arranged in standard numbers and spacing. Finally, tiny surface-mount components minimize the physical size of the components and have exposed metal pads rather than extended legs or leads. These flat leads are soldered to exposed pads on the surface of a circuit board.
  5. Wearable Technology in the form of Smart Garment Systems There are a variety of biomedical and social applications under development in the area of wearable technology. Some examples are: •Compression enabled garments to aid autism sufferers. •Mobile enabled sensor systems for baby monitoring. •Destigmitizing glucose monitoring for diabetics. •Novelty and fashion features : LED lights, game connectivity, social platforms. — European researchers have developed a smart fabric that can monitor muscular overload and help prevent repetitive strain injury, or RSI. But that is just the beginning. The team is also exploring a pregnancy belt to monitor baby’s heartbeat, clothing to help coach hockey, and shirts that monitor muscle fatigue during training. Measuring vital signs For most people, the term body sensing evolves and image of measuring vital signs, the kind of sensing that is commonly performed during a medical check up.   Vital signs are some of the most important pieces of information about eh current state of the individual body (hence the term vital signs).   They can be used to monitor medical conditions, detect context, and even deduce emotions. In a similar way, information about the movement and position of the body can be used to monitor symptoms of a developing condition, as well as provide more detailed information about movements and activities.   Together vital signs and body movements provide a very detailed picture of the physical state and activity of the individual. Taking a step beyond these two factors brings sensing into the realm of detecting or interpreting emotion and intention- a much more nuanced and complex design arena. Vital signs The most common vital signs are listed below, and each is measured in a variety of different ways, which present different requirements for wearable devices. Heart rate Blood pressure Body temperature Respiration (breathing)   In addition to sensing information from the wearer’s body, a wearable system can also gather information from the environment around the wearer. Parameters of the physical environment are more straightforward to sense that are social factors. Physical factors include variables like temperature, light level, sound level, location, or distance. They can be measured through sensors on the wearer’s body (outward-facing sensors) or communicated to the wearer’s systems from other systems situated in the environment. For example, the wearer could detect temperature of a room through a wearable temperature sensor, or the room’s thermostat could communicate that information to the wearer’s systems. In many cases, the same sensors used to detect body signals can also be used to detect environmental signals, depending on how the sensors are designed and oriented.
  6. Garment and Textile integration of sensors and electronic components While apparel prioritizes the physical comfort of fabrics and garments, through cut, contour, fit, softness, and breathability, electronic systems prioritize stabilizing and protecting the device, often emphasizing rigidity, impermeability, and flat surfaces.   Electronic components have been around for much longer than smart clothing has, and the standards and conventions of electronic parts were designed for rigid devices, not for integration into textiles. For the designer, it is important to understand the conventions of electronic components, and the way in which circuits can be formed in textile structures.   While some forms of wearable technology can be condensed into a single unit and located in a comfortable accessory such as an armband or belt using the manufacturing techniques common to electronic devices, body sensors often need to be stabilized.
  7. Electricity and Electrical Systems Electricity is the medium through which information flows in a smart garment system.   Changes in the flow of electrical energy through sensors are used to deduce information about the wearer or the environment. Electronically controlled displays present information to the user in the form of images, text, sound, or movement.   It is commonly believed that the ability to sense changes in the environment and respond to those changes is what makes a material “smart”.   Sensors transform one type of energy (the stimulus) into another type of energy (the response). They respond to s stimulus by changing the way that they conduct electricity.   That change in flow of electricity must them be interpreted by a circuit, which can decide to create a response by using electricity to activate yet another material, called the actuator.
  8. One of the most interesting functions that technology brings to clothing is the ability to continually access information and communicate with other people at a distance. Mobile technologies have the ability to provide just in time, instantaneous access to information. Wear ability is sometimes seen as the next frontier in mobile technologies because it allows access to information to be even more seamless.   To use a device carried in pocket, the user must locate and retrieve it, activate it, navigate to the right application, and ask for information. By contrast, a wearable device can sense that need for information and display it peripherally in a manner that is both accessible and non-intrusive.   Further, WT can access information about the wearer that is difficult for mobile technology to achieve. Example: A wearable heart-monitor can gather continuous information about the heart over a long period of time. This may make it possible for a doctor in a city to monitor a patient in a remote or rural area, or allow a patient to be monitored from home following a surgery.
  9. Sensors can monitor activity as well as physiological changes. The following chart represents some of the contexts in which to monitor fluctuations of health, or cycles of illness. Display modalities Input and Output Communication Vibration Tactile   Many wearable systems are must be capable of output or display (i.e. communicating the information to the user, either from another user or from the system).   Wearable displays are effective because they can comfortably be placed closer to the user’s sensory organs than non-wearable displays. (Example- mobile phone)    In the case of visual display, the area of the body real estate that is readily visible to the user is quite limited (in general, limited to the forearms and hands) and even more dramatically limited when the user is engaged in a simultaneous task. This limits effective wearable display to those displays that can be mounted close to the eyes: eyewear and head mounted displays. In the case of auditory display, an auditory display that does not rely on earphones is likely to be socially problematic.   Tactile display is a viable and under-explored communication modality that has interesting potential from many application areas, and especially for clothing.
  10. This snapshot illustrates some of the information relayed by the Squeeze© Autism compression garment system. The device connects the child’s caregiver and their wider network, including educators, coaches, and health care providers. SMART GARMENT COMMUNICATION SYSTEMS Pervasive monitoring and multi-format communication tools. • Aiding in the monitoring of fluctuations during cycles of illness. • Allows for patient to become more aware of their own physiological changes, as well as respond to shifts in health due to context or circumstances. • Connecting patients with their wider caregiver network.
  11. Displays Information can flow into and out of a wearable system in a variety of ways. Information can enter explicitly (by the user issuing a command to the system) or implicitly (by the system using sensors to detect changes in the wearer or environment). The information then exits the system through an output device or display, a device that communicates information to the user through any sensory modality. Vigour — A Gorgeous Wearable For Rehabilitation and Physical Therapy Designed by Pauline van Dongen in cooperation with TU Eindhoven & Textiel Museum, Vigour is a beautifully knitted cardigan with knit stretch sensors that continually monitors the wearer’s movement. The data connects to a mobile app that can be used by patients, therapists and caretakers to monitor and watch the rehabilitation process. Haptic Systems Systems that are designed to facilitate or promote tactile sensing are often called haptic systems, materials, or devices, meaning that they pertain the sense of touch. Basics of Tactile Perception Most of the body’s sense of touch takes place through the skin. Touch, pressure, and pain are also perceived in the muscles and organs, but this information is used more to sense the position and movement of the body, or to sense pain. The skin senses a wide variety of tactile impulses through specialized mechanoreceptors, which translate mechanical stimuli into electrical signals carried by the nerves to the brain.   The sensory organs in the skin detect a variety of forms of tactile impulse (stroking, pressure, vibration, and others) as well as temperature, itch, and pain.
  12. Actuators Actuator components make a physical change: they transform electricity into a response such as light, heat, or movement. Sensors and actuators can be compared to the body’s sensor organs and physical responses: sensory organs (sensors) turn external stimuli into nerve signals that are carried into the brain, and physical responses (actuators) turn a nerve signal from the brain into a physical change like a muscle flexing.     Uniqlo Heattech, Launched in 2006, HeatTech has since become a winter wardrobe staple in Japan; almost 20 million units were sold last year alone, according to Uniqlo. The fabric is woven from a specially designed hollow fiber thread that traps pockets of warm air, insulating your body in the same way a heavier wool would but without the bulk. Milk proteins, containing natural amino acids, are added to the fibers to create a soft, smooth hand. Hollow fiber threads trap pockets of warm air, insulating your body like wool does. More’s the pity then that the HeatTech fabric includes a mix of rayon, a man-made fiber created from cellulose that is eminently chemical-intensive and polluting, to turn your body’s perspiration into heat. (We’re not crazy about the antibacterial agent, a euphemism for “pesticide,” either.)
  13. LEDS A light-emitting diode (LED) is an actuator that transforms electrical energy into light energy. LEDs are made up of a specific kind of semiconducting material that causes electrons to drop from a higher energy level to a lower energy level as they move from one kind of conducting material to another. As the electrons fall to a lower energy level, they release the excess energy in the form of light. Confronting Winter Dreariness Current research indicates that blue light works best for people affected by SAD (Seasonal Affective Disorder). This is great news for people with SAD because the blue light boxes are only 2-4% as bright as their full spectrum counterparts. “We thought since blue light is effective at a lower intensity, can we put it on people so that the light therapy moves with them?” asked Halley. In her designs, Halley only used lights that emit at this end of the spectrum. Because the blue light is not as bright, users aren’t blinded as they usually are with full-spectrum light therapy. She wanted to allow users to move around, get ready for work, and go about their day without being encumbered by the inconvenience of sitting still for an hour in front of a blinding light. Lightwear: therapeutic tech brightens user enthusiasm Through an online survey, Halley discovered that people with SAD were open to wearable therapy, like scarves and hats with blue light LEDs or fiber optics sewn into them.
  14. “Design is devising a course of action aimed at changing an existing situation into a preferred one.” Herbert Simon, the Sciences of the Artificial, 1996